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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions



  • kateamuskateamus Posts: 1
    I just bought my '93 Civic and the antenna (which appears to be fine) had been disconnected from the radio. The guy said he never bothered to reconnect it because he always listened to tapes, but I would like to listen to the radio. I checked the manual and of course, there was nothing in there on the antenna. I'd rather do it myself than pay to have it done, but I don't know how to access the wires. Any advice?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    THAT's a weird story from the previous'll need to slip the deck out but you need a special little tool...the antenna wire usually plugs into the back of the deck, and you access it by pulling out the unit. A stereo shop could probably check this all out for you for a $20 bench fee.
  • bigkahunaflbigkahunafl Posts: 128
    Looks like I might be the first to post to this bulleting board!

    Here is my problems:

    When the engine is cold (if you can call South Florida cold), my car will surge about 2-300 rpm's when shifting around the 40 mph mark on my automatic transmission. I have a 2001 EX Sedan with nearly 2,000 miles on it. The engine sometimes will surge one more time after the first time, but never again. It's almost like the clutch (even though this is auto) was pushed in too early on a shift. Anyone else experience this problem?

    Also, my driver's side upper part of seat rocks a little bit. I wonder if this is a defect in the seat or can it be adjusted.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,092
    ....but I'm here to announce the new Honda Civic Owners club now available on Owner's Club board. Please stop by and introduce yourself in Meet the Members and let me know how I can help build your club.

    I have linked this discussion into that folder, but it will always reside here in Maintenance & Repair.

    Looking forward to meeting everyone!

    Owner's Clubs
  • CWOSIGNS - Sounds like you might have a charging system problem. Don't be surprised if your alternator is going out. If you have a problem in the charging system, any mechanic can tell you quickly if it's your battery, alternator, or regulator (if not internal to alternator). Have it checked out before you get standed somewhere, like I did!
  • aaaimgdaaaimgd Posts: 3
    I am very interestedin the information in this seriously considering buyin the new 2001 civic LX....

    interested in comments about the seat...on test drive the Civic seat seemed stiff and rather uncomfortable...if they get loose as well, this will be miserable...

    .. is anyone else having seat problems??
    Thank you.
  • jjsnowyjjsnowy Posts: 9
    Seems my new '01 Civic has both of the problems that people are complaining about. The squeeking noise that can drive you nuts, but that was finally fixed after 3 visits to the dea;ership. That was remedied when the dealer finally changed the struts. The next problem is being addressed on Mon. regarding the gas gauge. I already complained that it doesn't register correctly but I was told that nothing was wrong. I let them have it on Fri. and brought the bulletin in with me that they are aware of the problem. Needless to say they fell all over me and it will address the problem on Mon. Other than these two reoccuring problems, the car runs nicely. I'm sure I'll love the car once we pass these hurdles.
  • tony113tony113 Posts: 1
    I purchased an 01 Civic DX two months ago and I am experiencing a couple of noises that are really bothering me because the car is only two months. Has anyone had these problem with the 01. One is going over bumps or making a right turn that dips in the road. The front-end, drivers side, makes a noise like on old mattres spring. I took it to the dealer and they said they could not find any problems but acknowledged the noise. The other is this crackling noise coming from the drivers window when it is closed and going over bumps. The noise is very evident. I hope someone has some ideas.
  • spokanespokane Posts: 514
    The "crackling" noise is likely to be the upper part of the driver's door frame rubbing the a-piller rather than the noise being associated with the window glass. If that's it, correction will likely involve bending the window frame slightly to provide clearance. Look to see if you see a small area of smudged paint on the door frame or body which would indicate such rubbing. Also, while driving on a rough road when the problem is occurring, push the upper door frame outward to see if the noise diminishes. The problem could be in the window or its regulator mechanism, but I suggest you look for the above problem first.
  • I have an oil question. Is it normal for the oil in my 99 EX to be black when I do my 3000 mile oil changes? I've been told black oil is normal, but in four of my previous cars (1 honda, and 3 toyotas) the oil was still brown after 3000 miles. It would be slightly darker than the new oil. I've owned several older cars that were less refined so I expected black oil. The newer, and more refined cars I've owned never burn oil and the oil looked almost the same going out as going in. Do any other 6th generation owners have the same problem (if this is a problem)? Is it possible the oil filter, or K&N air filter I use is not sufficient?
  • ctnutrctnutr Posts: 3
    Hi, I just posted a longer question on the Maitenance & Repair/Honda Civic Problems board (post #407) so if anyone reading this might help, perhaps you can check the details there.
  • ctnutrctnutr Posts: 3
    Just read through all 460 posts to see if anything like this. Boy, what a great support group this is. Anyhow, my daughter had her '94 civic coupe dx broken into (passenger window smashed) and her new radio/cd snapped out with what appeared to be a crowbar. All that is apparently broken is the dark grey plastic trim that goes from left and over steering wheel, around the ventilation control box, and down around the radio opening. Looks to me to be a single piece of plastic. Just the chunk along bottom and right side of radio is all that was chipped off. Should this part be something I can find at a junk yard, but how tough is is to remove/replace? It's not obvious to me how it is held in place.

    Also, where (website?) can I find Honda part numbers with expanded views in case I want the dealer to price and possibly order it? They, of course, want to do the work which to me isn't worth it if it's just a part replacement. But then again, if there are special tools needed... With a $250 deductible comprehensive, I'm trying to recoup costs by doing the work myself and hopefully break even after buying another radio with what the insurance company is offering. At least the crooks just unplugged the antenna and harness, so reinstalling the radio shouldn't be a problem.
  • brorjacebrorjace Posts: 588
    Milanored, dark-colored oil may not be a sign of trouble ... but it usually isn't. Who knows for sure?

    I use synthetic oil and change mine every 5-6,000 miles along with the filter. The problem is, with my '95 Civic DX, 12-13% of the old oil stays in the motor after an oil & filter change and the new oil starts out an amber color and gradually darkens from then on. By 6,000 miles it looks nearly black upon a cursory inspection.

    My solution is to do one short interval change every other year or so. Leave the oil in for only about a month or 1,000 miles and then change it again. This flushes a lot of the gunk that's floating around inside your motor before the oil begins to oxidize, degrade and discolor.

    ctnutr, Hondas have had 1-piece dashes for a while which improves their fit and finish ... but makes them harder to work on. Sorry, but I can't really help you.

    -- Bror Jace
  • Thanks Bror Jace. The short interval oil change really sounds like a good idea. I'll give it a shot.
  • ctnutr, the only way I know of getting part numbers and diagrams is to purchase the "Service Manual" from Honda (about $65) or go to the dealership's service department and order the part. Whatever you may think the part is worth, multiply it by 3 so you're not shocked when they tell you how much the part will cost you. :)
  • ctnutrctnutr Posts: 3
    Thanks for replying, Bror Jace and Milanored. Fortunately, the top dash isn't damaged, just the plastic piece that goes on the vertical portion (starts on left, goes across the steering wheel, and ends in center of car surrounding the radio opening and temp/blower controls). Has anyone had experience getting used trim parts from junk yards? I agree with milanored's dealer parts price...exhorbitant, but sometimes that's the only place to get what you need.
  • akapla01akapla01 Posts: 5
    I have used a few times before to order factory parts at cheap prices. They are a honda dealer in the mid-west that sells at wholesale prices to the public. Tell them what you are looking for and they will give you a good price. For example, Honda floor mats are only $67. The dealers usually want between $100 and $150...
  • jjsnowyjjsnowy Posts: 9
    Hi Tony 113.I also have a Civic '01 that had the noise problem. It took 3 visits to the dealership to convince then to change the struts. They finally gave into me and now the noise is gone. Had to go back with another problem with the gas gauge. The mechanic admitted to me that I am not the only one who had a problem with the struts. Since I had mine fixed others came in with the same problem. Now I'm waiting for a new gas gauge. They are admitting to a computer glitch in the gas gauge and supposedly redesigning a new one. So keep an eye out to see if the gauge readings are eratic.
  • justinjustin Posts: 1,918
    do you find that the new struts help the ride, or just the noise? was the noise only when over certain bumps at certain angles. every once in awhile my 2001 EX coupe hits a bump the wrong way, and it makes a popping/clicking noise up front. not sure if it is normal or not....perhaps something is just loose or needs lubed up?

    i don't think i have a gas gauge issue. It seems like one day it will have a quarter tank, then the next morning the gas light is on, but i don't know if that is normal or not...

  • jjsnowyjjsnowy Posts: 9
    The new struts totally eliminated the noise. The noise was not constant, but I couldn't pinpoint exactly what conditions triggered the noise. The ride seems a little smoother now too.
    You'll know if you have the gas gauge problem soon enough. I would fill up my car and drive 35 miles and it would read 1/2 of a tank. I would shut off the engine and then restart the car later in the day and now have 3/4 of a tank.
    In fact, the dealership when checking out my car insisted that the reading was accurate at 1/2 of a tank until they went to fill it up and the car took only 2 gallons of gas.
    After trying to convince me that there was no problem, they finally admiited something was wrong and had to call engineering.
  • teddwoodteddwood Posts: 16
    Brand new 2001 Civic LX. Just had fuel sending unit replaced due to gas gauge misreading. Today, when I drove the car in the morning, check engine light came on. Took it to a dealership. They read code "1413???" and tolde me there are problems w/ the emission system. It might take them two days to fix it. Please help!
  • teddwoodteddwood Posts: 16
    Had many problems w/ the car. Under what condition, I can file lemon law?
  • brorjacebrorjace Posts: 588
    Tedwood, I think "Lemon Laws" are state-specific. You can call your state's attorney general for better information.

    ctnutr, do you live in Connecticut? There is a good shop which is a Honda dealership Manchester, CT that sells discounted parts via catalog and the net.

    Junk yards/auto recyclers? I haven't dealt with them much but they are definitely worth trying for interior pieces.

    --- Bror Jace
  • autolvrautolvr Posts: 1
    Hew folks.... I own a 95 Civic EX coupe,.... I have always been pretty happy with this car,.. Lately though things seem to be taking a turn for the worse.... I have always paid strict attn. to Oil changes and other mint. Lately, almost right after I had Tires Plus put new tires and Brake pads on my car. My Check Engine light comes on.. I not trying to associate the new tires with this problem but it just seems strange,.. It isn't consistent either. Sometimes its on, Sometimes its not. But mostly its on.. Also... Lately my car feels real sluggish.... Really . Really.. sluggish... I never drive my car hard as my car is not a car that is intended to do so... But if anyone can give me some advice or anyone who has had the same problem I would appreciate the help.. :)
  • Has anyone with the 2001 Civic has this much problem or am I just the unlucky one?

    Update to my story below.
    Cruise control took a dump on March 15, 2001 so the PCM need to be replaced. As of March 19, 2001, five more days has been out of service making a total of 43 days out of 65 days of ownership and it's still not repair.

    Hi, I'm a current owner and like you I was very impressed since there is no transmission like it. Unlike the rubber band acceleration of previous HX w/ CVT, it has been modified for better response. It operates much like an automatic but with better acceleration and gas mileage, and it accelerates smoothly without any hesitation of shifting gears. Accelerate normally in D mode for best gas mileage and step on the gas pedal for better acceleration, or switch to S mode for even more acceleration. It is comfortable for my 90 miles commute, and it gets 40 mpg even with 1.5 hours of traffic. I just love the look of this black HX coupe with alloy wheels even without body color matching of mirrors and door handles. It even looks better than my black 95 Accord EX coupe and almost as good as the 2001 Accord EX coupe. The dealer originally wanted $14,888 for this Civic w/o A/C, and $4,700 for my 95 Accord EX auto w/ 134,000 miles. After an hour of negotiation, I paid $14,500 ($15,799 out the door), which is about $800 above dealer invoice plus destination, and I got a fair trade-in price of $6,500. However, after only 10 days and 1000 miles later, it needed a new transmission for it would slip intermittently and would not even move in D, S, or L mode. When it did work again, I drove it to my local Honda dealer for repair on Jan 23, 2001. Since this is a relatively new and limited Japanese part, I had to wait a very long time for it delivery and even without an estimate date of delivery. I called my Honda dealer where I had purchased the vehicle and Honda customer representatives several times asking for a lemon buy-back or a replacement vehicle but no such luck. So when it got to 30 days, I called the Better Business Bureau of California to proceed through arbitration, and they worked on my case right away even faxed to Honda that Friday evening. Well come Monday, the same Honda representative that had handled my case called to offer an extended warrantee on the transmission to 5 years/60K miles as Honda gesture of good will. Since Honda had provided free car rental from the second day, I felt obliged to give Honda a break so as result of further negotiation, Honda gave me 6 years/72K miles warrantee on the transmission plus A/C at $375 (1/3 the cost). In the end, it took 35 days for a new replacement transmission and A/C add-on, much angers, frustrations, headaches, and sleepless nights. Honda customer representative called this problem a fluke but if I ever get a Honda lemon again that will be my last Honda. I also brought the car back 2 more times for minor but irritating harmonic noise and rattle. As of March 14, 2001, 38 days was in the Honda dealership out of 60 days of ownership so it up to you to make your own purchasing decision.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Actually, despite the delays, I thought you got treated pretty well. The Better Business Bureau is totally financed by businesses, it is not a consumer organization, and the Honda dealer is a franchisee of the parent company. So basically, these businesses did the right thing (eventually).

    So it sounds like the HOnda factory and the BBB worked for you, and the dealer was sort of stuck in the middle. Dealers are very reluctant to give anything away, because they don't know if the factory is going to pay them for it. Factories often screw dealers or really put the pressure on them to perform.

    The BBB was formed so that bad businesses wouldn't give good businesses a bad name. The mediation process hopefully corrects bad business practices, which it seemed to do in your case.

    This is not to imply your time and effort are not valuable, but really, you are luckier than a lot of people in similar situations.

    I don't think your car was a "lemon" had one bad component in a very complex machine. If you keep thinking "lemon" you'll never be happy with the car.
  • vadpvadp Posts: 1,025
    <<<but really, you are luckier than a lot of people in similar situations.>>>

    A lot of people in similar situations got a REFUND or a brand new car.

    tn hx cvt, contact a lemon law attorney, immediately!!!!
  • mveemvee Posts: 4
    This post is written to closeout (hopefully) message number 362. The following is a brief summary of the original message and the results from the dealership.

    I purchased a 2001 Civic LX on February 1 of this year. Within the first few days of my ownership I noticed the following problems: a) A low static-like noise (popping sound?) coming from the front dash area towards the passenger side while driving. More specifically, the noise seemed to come from where the front windshield met the dash and the right roof pillar. b) A slight amount of wind noise coming from the right rear door area while driving. c) The trunk would not close on the first try if you opened it with the trunk-release lever located on the floor by the driver's seat. It would shut just fine if you opened it with a key from the outside.

    Feeling that the car should have been good-to-go from the start, I decided to take it to the dealership on February 19th to have them fix the above mentioned problems. After hearing the "dash" noise for himself, one of the lead technicians had me turn the steering wheel to generate the noise while he pressed down on the cowl molding at the base of the front windshield (where it met the right quarter panel and the passenger side door). This pressure caused the sound to stop so he told me that that was where they would probably start in looking for the source of the sound. I left the car with the dealership that morning and later that day the service advisor called me to say that while they were looking for the source of the dash noise, they accidentally cracked the front windshield (apparently this is one touchy piece of hardware) and it would have to be replaced. The only problem with a windshield replacement was that the replacement parts (a new front windshield, rubber seal and cowl assembly in addition to a new trunk cable for the trunk-closing problem) were not in stock and would have to be ordered from their suppliers. Unfortunately, most, if not all of these parts were also on backorder status. Twenty-four days later, on March 15th, I was able to pick up my car from the dealership. (As of the 15th, a new trunk cable had not come in yet so they had to take one off of an in-stock unit to fix mine.)

    Now, the cause of the front dash noise? The service ticket states "Cause: wind noise. Found ...broken clips on frt cowl replaced cowl." Whether it was just the cowl molding in some way, the front windshield or a combination of the two, I will never know as they were all replaced. One thing I do know is that the "dash" noise IS GONE. The trunk now shuts on the first try and there seems to be less wind noise coming from the right rear door area. After all of this would I buy a Honda again? Yes. I appreciate the information shared on this website, as it has been a benefit to me.
  • mattbratmattbrat Posts: 17
    I also own an HX with CVT with AC, but don't have any problems. Tin hx cvt stated he accelerated in D mode than also in S mode. That probably is where the problem occurred with the trans. The S mode is for slow driving, more for power than speed, I think your suppose to drive under 25 mph in S mode. My only thing about my car is that I'm not getting the mph that the cvt is suppose to get, maybe I have to break the engine in a little longer, but I have over 7000 miles. Aside for that I'm enjoying the civic.
  • Here is the exact wording on page 187 of CIVIC 2001 Owner's Manual Coupe:

    Drive (D) Use this position for your normal driving. The transmission automatically adjusts to keep the engine at the best speed for driving conditions. To help the engine warm up faster, the transmission will select ratios that allow the engine to run at higher speeds when it is cold.

    Second (S) Selecting Second shifts the transmission into a lower range of ratios for better acceleration and increased engine braking. Use Second when you are going down a steep hill, or in stop-and-go driving.

    Low (L) To shift to Low, press the release button on the front of the shift lever. Use Low to get more power when climbing, and for maximum engine braking when going down steep hills.

    For faster acceleration when in D, S or L, the transmission will automatically 'kick down' to a lower range of ratios by pushing the accelerator pedal to the floor.

    Maximum Allowable Speeds
    The CVT shifts automatically to maintain proper engine speed in any shift position.

    When the vehicle reaches the maximum speed in any shift position, you may feel the engine cut in and out. This is caused by a limiter (112 mph, 180 km/h) in the engine computer controls. The engine will run normally when you reduce the speed below the maximum.

    On page 185
    Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT)
    On HX model
    Honda's Continuously Variable automatic transmission's unique design provides a smooth, constant flow of power. It is electronically controlled for more precise operation and better fuel economy.

    As you can see, there is absolutely no wrong doing on my part since I have always driven in D mode. On one instance when trying to accelerate from 0 to 60 mph in D mode, the transmission kept slipping and it didn't matter if I had accelerated normally, moderately, or fully and that when I had to try S mode but that did not help either. Remembering what I have read in the Owner Manual, I tried light acceleration and maintained 60 mph till I exited from the freeway to my in-law. Another time when I had to try any mode (R, D, S, or L) was from a complete stand still by the curve. Nothing would move the car except for R mode, I kept trying all the mode even shutting down and restarting the car, and I even waited a while before restarting but the only thing that would consistently work was reverse so I reversed a little, stop, and tried to go forward and again it didn't work. I must have tried more than 10 times until the D mode blinked and check engine lighted signaling that something was wrong with the transmission. Anyway, I pushed the car forward and out of the fire station driveway, stayed overnight at my in-law, and tried it again in the morning and it barely worked. I had to drive around the block several times to warm it up and drove 30 miles locally to the Honda near my house. My wife and I came up with two conclusions that it either did not like her mother place or the colder temperature of the evening (50 to 40 F). Anyway, the service dealer experienced the same intermittent problem cause by the colder temperature. With the new the transmission, the slipping disappeared and all modes worked fine although I have not try L mode yet. There is even a Technical Service Bulletin on this problem:
    Service Bulletin Number: 161000
    Bulletin Sequence Number: 157
    Date of Bulletin: 0010
    NHTSA Item Number: SB615815
    Make: HONDA
    Model: CIVIC
    Year: 2001

    I would truly love this car if I did not have all of these reliability problems: a new transmission at 1000 miles, a new Powertrain Control Module (PCM) at 2000 miles, and noises everywhere. I love the interior, exterior, size, power, handling, and especially the mileage. Since day one, I have logged all the mileage listed below:
    1/19/01 407 miles 10.421 gallons 39.06 mpg
    1/23/01 440 miles 11.854 gallons 37.12 mpg
    3/01/01 361 miles 10.354 gallons 34.87 mpg
    3/06/01 484 miles 12.398 gallons 39.04 mpg
    3/12/01 387 miles 9.657 gallons 40.07 mpg
    Total 2079 miles 54.684 gallons 38.02 mpg

    So Matt, please tell me more about your HX w/ CVT experience. Mpg?
  • brorjacebrorjace Posts: 588
    Autolvr, I would suspect your O2 sensor has gone bad. Replacing this is not the end of the world ... but it isn't exactly cheap, either.

    --- Bror Jace
  • mattbratmattbrat Posts: 17
    Shows what I I did see that in the manual but figured that the S and L modes were similar to L1 and L2 in usual auto trannies. I as you, drive in the D mode, I guess the only other time I use the S mode is for snow or to go downhill. It's too bad you got stuck with a bad cvt, hope your new one is good. I haven't experienced any problems with my hx and I hope any won't occur.
    I bought mine on January the 9th and now have around 7000 miles. I don't know what kind of milage I'm getting now, cause my wife takes it to work and she doesn't keep a tab on this. When I drove the car, I wasn't getting more than 33-35 mpg. Infact, my wife and I drove from south jersey to columbus, Ohio and did not get more than 33 mpg. Btw, my mother in law, loves the car, she and my wife went all the way to chicago...and my mother in law drove the whole way...I thought I would never see the car again. Like I said, my wife has the car now, but I'll get it back starting next week, and then I'll start keeping a tab of the milage. This car is a joy to drive and the cvt is really smooth, hopefully I'll see the 40+ mpg soon. I'll keep you up to date with the mpg and everything else with the hx.

    Hey Tin, did you realize we might be the only ones here with 2001 hx w/ cvt...
  • devoredevore Posts: 39
    Okay, this is gonna sound crazy but I wanted to see what opinions were around here.

    Last week when I left work, there was a small, business-sized piece of card stock paper stuck to the driver's side window of my car... it was stick into the rubber at the base of the window. (It was one of those "Make $1000/daily!!" ads.)

    So anyway, I didn't notice this paper until I got into the car, and when I saw it, (stupidly) my reaction was to roll down the window and grab it. When I rolled down the window, the piece of paper slipped and fell into the door body. So now I have a small piece of heavy paper somewhere in my door frame.

    I had read of some problems people had with their windows getting off-track, and I wonder if I should be concerned about this piece of paper. I'm a bit afraid to ask the dealer, because of _course_ they'd love to tear the door off my car for some non-warranty work. :)
  • We purchased a brand new 2001 Honda Civic EX in December and have experienced two major problems. 1- Most, if not all, of the Clarion supplied CD/Radios that are standard equipment are defective and on recall. The only problem is Honda can't get replacements so they are knowingly shipping cars with bad units. The units display a "Code" message, loose time and totally stop working requiring you to enter the Anti-theft code. 2- One of the power windows went a week after we purchased the car and they can't get the replacement. 3- We are getting a lot of check engine lights the dealer (Honda 23 in Pompon Plains NJ) claims is normal operation because the emissions controls are so sensitive, almost like it was DESIGNED to do. Honda 23 in Pompton Plains, NJ has been no help at all in solving these problems and neither has Honda regional. Both don't return calls anymore.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The window's not likely an issue but the piece of paper may eventually become wet and soggy, and block one of the water drain holes in the bottom of the door. That could cause standing water inside the door and possibly promote corrosion in the area where the door skin and frame are connected.
  • We purchased a brand new 2001 Honda Civic EX in December and have experienced two major problems (one minor). 1- Most, if not all, of the Clarion supplied CD/Radios that are standard equipment are defective and on recall. The only problem is Honda can't get replacements so they are knowingly shipping cars with bad units. The units display a "Code" message, loose time and totally stop working requiring you to enter the Anti-theft code. 2- One of the power windows went a week after we purchased the car and they can't get the replacement. 3- We are getting a lot of check engine lights the dealer (Honda 23 in Pompon Plains NJ) claims is normal operation because the emissions controls are so sensitive, almost like it was DESIGNED to do. Honda 23 in Pompton Plains, NJ has been no help at all in solving these problems and neither has Honda regional. Both don't return calls anymore. I am starting to think that Honda’s renowned legendary reliability is more renowned urban legend.
  • Hi Chris, have you try rolling the window down all the way and use a leaf blower? You might get lucky and blow that sucker out.

    Hi Ronald, read several of my messages above from tin_hx_cvt and tell me about Honda. I think for the most part Honda is doing a good job when the problem is identified and a little help from the Better Business Bureau wouldn't hurt. Have you read your owner manual? Have you been tightening the gas cap with three clicks? If you have not, then that might be the problem with the check engine light. Otherwise, maybe your PCM is malfunctioning and take a look at this site

    Hi Matt, it is difficult to find someone here that has this 2001 HX w/ CVT and it is nice to know that your wife and mother-in-law also love this vehicle. As for my wife, she swore never to sit in my car again let alone drive it when the transmission slipped on the freeway. Any way, she did seat in the car again several times only to have to go through the same scary experience. Even though the car is running fine now with the new transmission and new PCM, she absolutely will not trust it so when I has said 'Let go to Arizona this weekend', instantly, she would respond 'Not in your car!' As for mileage, it seems to be getting better with more miles driven. I typically cruise at 65 mph but if I am behind a big truck or a slower driver doing 55 to 60 mph on the right lane, then I just cruise along with them since no one will harass me. How fast do you or wife normally drive and what is your traffic condition? I do not think you can get 40 mpg with faster speed or heavy traffic condition.

  • devoredevore Posts: 39
    Thanks for the warning about the paper plugging up the drain holes. I hadn't considered that. From what I can tell, it looks like there are two drain holes in the door, one at the front and one at the rear. So at least the whole thing won't fill with water, but it sounds like I ought to somehow remove the piece of paper if I can.

    Heh, the leaf blower sounds like a possibility. :) I was just taking a look at it here at work, and I think now if I get a clotheshanger and a flashlight, I might be able to fish the piece of paper out manually. We'll see.
  • scottintxscottintx Posts: 10
    The only explanation for warnerlamb's comments probably stem from the fact that he has a vested interest. I wonder if he is a Honda salesman. Forums are for venting issues and concerns and getting answers. No one should be criticized for venting their concerns and problems. Surely, one can easliy look at all the forums and plainly discover that other people are having problems similar to ronaldwatson. Warnerlamb....relax and choose another web site if you are not happy with this free service/ Go where you can pay subscriber fees. I am perfectly happy with the free service Edmunds has provided and understand others may have concerns that I do not. Otherwise maybe professional help is in order.
  • grbeckgrbeck Posts: 2,361
    This is hardly an earthshaking concern, but here goes: I have a 1999 Civic EX sedan with 54,000 miles. When the car was brand new, the "low fuel" warning light would come on when there was about 1/5 of a tank left. About a month ago I noticed that the light never seemed to flash anymore. I purposely ran down the tank until the light came on. It eventually flashed, but when I filled it up again, there had only been only .6 gallons in the tank! (I'm basing that calculation on the amount of gas I pumped into the tank and the tank's capacity, as listed in the owner's manual.) Is the sensor wearing out? Or are there dirt and debris in the fuel tank messing up the sensor?
  • brorjacebrorjace Posts: 588
    grbeck, That's odd. Your car shouldn't have a serious problem. I bet it's merely the float sticking in your tank.

    Have you ever used a fuel system cleaner? It might dissolve anything that's causing your float to stick or hang up.

    I believe everyone should use a couple bottles of fuel cleaner every year to prevent problems throughout the fuel system, not just the injectors. I recommend Redline SI-1 and Chevron Techron.

    --- Bror Jace
  • jjsnowyjjsnowy Posts: 9
    Tony read your message about the noises your Civic is making. The spring-like sound is your strut and has to be replaced. Honda kept telling me nothing was wrong. On my third trip back, I was humored by the service dept. , but had the strut changed. I had the last laugh on this issue because the noise stopped. Since then, the service dept admitted that I wasn't they had to change struts on other Civic '01's. Now I waiting for the redesigned gas fuage to come out. I have that problem too. Instead of repairing it, I agreed to wait for the new gas guage. They claim there is a computer glitch in the gas guage they are now using. I'll have to wait and see on that one.
  • I thank all but one of you for you kind responses. I have a lot of experience with various professional newsgroups/email exploders and you always get one or two who have more anger than thought. In fact, I heard on CNN that new laws are being considered to deal with abusive behavior over the internet. The purpose of the post was not to vent, but to spare other people this experience, find someone who identified a key individual in Honda who can truly help or who has insight into how it can be resolved. Believe me, I would expect this from Chevy, not from a name like Honda. I did in fact get some helpful responses from one of the other lists. is a good link to find service issues NHTSA. Check it out. It is very interesting.
  • teddwoodteddwood Posts: 16
    I began to hear a faint noise coming from the front left. It sounds like something is rubbing and usually only occurs when I am turning right, or when passing over a dip in the road. Any ideas?
  • gibnutgibnut Posts: 4
    I have the same situation. My car is about three weeks old with about 1000 miles. I took it to the dealer on Friday. They said they can not find anything wrong. Then they told me that it stopped making the noise. Anyhow by the time I got back home I could hear the noise again. I am taking back to the dealer again on Monday. I think it is the strut. I had read on other forums(cant remember which ones) that similar occurrences have been reported, and a few people were successful at having the dealer replace the strut, which solved the problem. I will most likely push for this type of resolution.
  • I'm sorry, I must have forgotten to take my medication.
  • justinjustin Posts: 1,918
    I have a 2001 Honda Civic EX Coupe Automatic. I was in an accident (other guys insurance is paying - his fault), and my car has about $4800 worth of front end damage, including frame damage. Now, I KNOW that I am going to lose money on this when it comes time to trade, because they ask if you had an accident, and that effect the trade amount. Allstate is saying that I need to file a "Dimished Value" claim. No one that I know of knows what that is....including dealers.

    Any advice??

  • lacombe1lacombe1 Posts: 1
    Last June (2000) we purchased a brand new Honda Civic SE from our local dealer. During the test drive I noticed a slight knocking noise from the engine when the car was under load, i.e. during acceleration while in gear. It was barely noticeable, but to me it sounded out of the ordinary when compared to the normal engine noise that I was used to. I mentioned the noise to the sales representative,and he assured me that I must have been shifting incorrectly.

    As time went by the noise that I had first noticed during our test drive was becoming louder and more apparent. At about 3,000 km I decided to take the car into the dealer to have them look at it. I don&#146;I have the exact date but it was early September. The Service Manager, assured me that it was likely something minor and indicated that the engine mounts might be a bit loose. He then suggested that the problem could be looked at when we had the car in for the 6000 km warranty service.

    From early September to late November the knocking noise became more pronounced to the point where the car sounded like a diesel when the accelerator was pressed. We took the car to the dealer in November of 2000 for the 6000 km warranty service. I told the service desk representative about the noise, describing it as a knocking sound that was especially noticeable when the gas pedal was depressed and the engine was under load. The noise became louder and faster as you continued to depress the accelerator. The noise was especially noticeable while driving in 1st and 2nd gear, but also could be noticed in 3rd, 4th, and at highway speed in 5th if the road was smooth and there wasn&#146;t too much road noise. You could also notice the noise when the car was stopped if you quickly revved the engine. The noise is only noticeable when the car is warmed up, i.e. normal operating temperature and is not heard when the car is cold just after starting. I then had one of the mechanics come on a test drive with me. He heard the noise and commented that it was not normal and appeared to be somewhat concerned.

    The initial diagnosis was that perhaps the main bearings were a bit loose, although the measurements that were done seemed to indicate that they were within spec. However, I was told that to get a true measurement the engine would have to be removed and then the tolerances measured. The main engine bearings were then replaced and I picked up the car. During the ride back to our home the knocking noise was still there. We took the vehicle back to the dealer and they then proceeded to replace the small engine block. While the car was in the shop we were given two loaners, which were 2 door 2000 Honda Civic's with the same engine and over 12,000 km. During the time that we had the loaners I tried to see if they made the same noise. The same noise was not noticed over range of rpm&#146;s, gears, and driving speeds.

    The second service that was done on the car seemed to make quite a difference. Overall the engine ran a lot quieter and the noise was not noticeable. However, over the course of the next couple of months the original noise started to occur again, starting quietly at first, but then following the same pattern that we noticed prior to the 6,000 km service.

    In early March 2001 I took the car into a local independent import mechanic that we had gone to with a Toyota Celica that we had owned from new for 12 years. The mechanic came out on a test drive with me and heard the knocking noise. He then brought the car into his shop and listened for the noise using a stethoscope, he also had the car on a hoist and checked to make sure that there were no loose parts. He then took the car out for a test drive by himself. His diagnosis was as follows: "Road tested &#150; appears to be slight knock from engine block area on acceleration. 1st and 2nd gear on acceleration mostly. Checked engine compartment and underneath. Nothing loose or out of ordinary. Fluids ok. Suggest contacting dealer." The mechanic indicated that the noise was not normal and appeared to be coming from lower down towards the front of the engine.

    Recently, we have also started to notice another problem. If you rev the engine up to approximately 3,000-3,500 rpm and let your foot off the gas the engine will start to slow down. as it approaches the normal idle speed there is a noticeable shudder from the engine that you can feel via the steering wheel and also hear.

    We are in the process of waiting to meet with a factory representative and the local dealer. Any suggestions as to this problem would be greatly appreciated.


    Lacombe, Alberta CANADA

    [email protected]
  • phantomcaphantomca Posts: 20

    I just purchase the 2001 Honda Civic service manual. I wish I had a scanner so I can scan the pages to you. Or perhaps you can send me an email with your address and I mailed to you.
    [email protected]
  • goodstergoodster Posts: 4
    My 1994 Honda Civic has about 92,000 miles on it and for the past couple of months their has been a "rapping" sound coming from the engine when I start the car. After about 3-5 minutes the sound goes away. The car runs fine and I have changed the oil every 3500 miles and done all other service work. Anyone ever hear of this problem?
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