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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • gasguzzgasguzz Posts: 214
    Top third... why, that's the antenna.
    Check out the O-Manual for filling the reservoir. Anyway, the fluid level isn't the cause of squeaks. Have a tech check the pads/shoes for wear.
    What's the tread indicator look like? Maybe these Firesucks will last some 35K? Have the fronts checked for air-leaks.
    Ask away, my friend.
    Enjoy.
  • I took my 2001 Civic EX Sedan in today to get the PCM fixed because of the recall on them. When they placed the "first" new PCM in (notice I said first), all of a sudden the check engine light went on and the shop computer indicated that my Oxygen Sensor was malfunctioning. I had no indication of it until this point. No check engine light...nothing. The dealer then put in a second PCM to see if the first new PCM they put in was faulty. Well, low and behold the same thing happened. Check engine light and a faulty read on the Oxygen Sensor. The irony is that I took in my car to get a computer fixed that was recalled and found out that something was actually wrong with my car that the original computer wasn't telling me about. What a nut roll. We'll see what tomorrow brings...they had to order the part. Anyone with a similar story?
  • Does anyone know if the PCM recall affects all 01 Civics or just certain cars?
  • justinjustin Posts: 1,918
    I would like to know the same thing. My Civic EX 2001 Coupe has not had any radio problems or PCM notices. I might call Honda and see....
  • Thanks gasguzz!!!
  • One more thing gasguzz, I don't mean to sound ignorant but what is the tread indicator?
  • The thread indicator is located on all tires. It tells you when you should replaced your tires. The thread indicator run across the tire side way and it is about .25 inches wide by 1/8 tall. A good rule of thumb is to place a penny upside down (head toward tire) and if you see his whole head it is time to replaced the tire.
  • PCM et al...Part II
    Well it turns out that my original PCM was fine and that the dealership did not check to see if my car needed a new one by looking at my cars vin number. Apparently, older 2001 Civics were manuafactured with the corrected PCM and radio. As a result, if you bought a 2001 Civic in late 2000, you may not have a PCM or radio problem. Honda will notify you if your car requires an update. How does Honda know where to find you? For one, your dealer "should have" forarded your info to them at sale time. To ensure, Honda knows who and where you are, I suggest going to the Honda.com website. Under E-Honda and then owners, you can e-register your car. As a result, Honda will be able to send future recall notices directly to you. Here's hoping there are none.
  • scottintx, thanks for the infor on the PCM. I can smell gas at cold-start in the morning. Is this normal?
    I havn't had much luck with this new civic. The gas gauge is off. The dealer still doesn't have the part yet.
  • gasguzzgasguzz Posts: 214
    Keep in mind too that the indicators are more of an economic gauge of when to change tires (they are also the manufacturer's legal definition of when you may drive safely on the rubbers).
    It is not at all unusual to start losing traction even before you hit the indicators. For me, traction is safety and reliability, making that a higher priority over cost.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Wear indicators are also used during safety inspections to determine tire condition. A tire will not pass inspection if 2 or more adjacent rows of tread are worn to the wear indicator bars.
  • I recently bought a new Civic LX and have been irritated by a nearly constant "popping" noise coming from the passenger dash near the door. Has anyone had similar problems and if so, did the dealership fix it? (I havnt had time to take it in yet). Thanks
  • mveemvee Posts: 4
    This post is similar to #361 and it may be the same problem without a solution as of yet. I have also recently purchased a 4-door 2001 Civic LX and as you drive it you can hear what sounds to be like a low static-like noise coming from the front dash area towards the passenger side. When the car is not moving but idling, the sound is not present. However, if you turn the steering wheel to the right or to the left while the car is not moving but running, the same sound is generated. What is creating this sound? If anyone could be of help, I would appreciate it as I would rather not have the dealership hunt around for days looking for the source. Also, it appears that a low amount of wind and road noise is coming in from around the right rear door or window area. Any thoughts?
  • I too seem to have the same wind/road noise coming from the right rear door area like you MVEE. I also am not encouraged to take my car to the dealer to have them pull the dash apart to find a problem. The sound coming from my dash is more of a popping sound and it seems to be more prevelant in the cold although going over the smallest crack in the road makes it pop also, very annoying. I guess I should have waited a year for this new model to get the bugs worked out. Also, I just refueled yesterday and I only got 27 mpg with a mix of city/highway driving, not very encouraged at this point. Will the mileage improve with use because this is well below what it should be doing?
  • My 5-speed 97 Civic runs rough for 3 or 4 minutes after start-up, then runs fine. My gas mileage has dropped about 30%. The dealer cannot find anything wrong with it, but put in a set of plugs. This did nothing to alleviate the problem. I have 60K miles on it. Any suggestions?
  • Thanks! I will try it when I get home tonight.
  • Thanks again, I agree safety is paramount. I now have 28k on the car so I will do the penny test and will have the dealership look at them at the 30k service. According to some posts, I may need new tires at that point!
  • Has anyone actually received a replacement radio for their '01 ex? My local dealer said it would be in two weeks ago - I'm still waiting...
  • lokkilokki Posts: 1,200
    What believe is happening here is that the cold weather is causing the plastic to shrink. This is pretty much the equivalent of having loose screws; the parts can move and rattle. Check, the next time you are driving on a cold day, to see if the sound goes away after your interior is fully warmed up. If it does you may have success in getting rid of the sound by getting a phillips screwdriver and a flashlight and tightening down all the screws that hold the dash together.

    With the wind noise problem, I insisted that they tighten the door (move the pin) so that the door is tighter against the body when it is closed. That worked on getting rid of my wind noise.

    Good luck
  • Yup, have both problems and yes, brought it to those jerks in the service department, and no, they didn't fix a darn thing, even after keeping my car all day on three separate occasions. The radio; well, they said they had a new radio for me after I produced the service bulletin that said they were junk, but after double checking with parts department, assuring me they in fact had a radio for me, they didn't do the job stating no radio was available after all and sent us home. That was almost two months ago and we haven't heard squat from the honda jerks since. Oh and the dash noise we all have, they said "what noise, we didn't hear any noise". Honda is no longer the great car company it was. Want a good laugh? Tonight is the honda "starting off right" meeting for new owners at my worthless dealership, don't think I'll be wasting my time there.
  • I will definately take the Civic back and insist as you did on adjusting the rear door. As for the dash popping noises, it does seem more prevalent in cold weather although the car was sitting in the sun today and was warm inside and it still makes those noises but less than cold weather. I think I will try to tighten down anything I can find on a nice day and see what that does. I hope my gas milage increases (27 mpg so far). But it sure is comfortable and drives very nice. Thanks again for the good info.
  • I find myself turning up the radio more to drown out the dash noises. Can you go to a different Honda Dealership for service? I live in Reno and have had terrible luck dealing with Reno car dealerships but then I started driving 30 miles to Carson City and its a day and night difference, they are Great! gave me a free rental (without asking) gave me free labor twice on a Toyota for not having the parts on hand, they had to run to Reno to get them so twice my repairs were 1/2 off. So, sometimes its worth the drive to go somewhere else. good luck
  • I've just bought a 97 Civic HX with 52000 miles on it. The previous owner was using convetional Valvoline 10W 30 most of the time and sometimes 5W 30. I want the opinion of all the experts out there that would it be better for me to move to synthetic. I live in LA and obviously temperature dont go much down even in winters. If it would be better for me to move to synthetic, which brand should i use and also what would be the procedure to move to synthetic. Can I do it at once or have to move gradually over next few oil changes. Lastly, if using conventional oil is ok, then should i use 5w 30 or 10w 30, and also which is the best brand for that.
  • My wife and I took delivery of a brand new 2001 Civic LX Sedan (auto.) six days ago. After three days and 150 miles on the odometer (it came with 20mi already on it) we are experiencing major problems. The car drove as expected until the morning of the fourth day when it failed to start. After tapping on the gas and a little coaxing it started roughly and then stalled. After a third attempt it stayed on, and idled very rough. The check engine light came on and the dash gear display began flashing D, D3 and 2 all while in Park. The dealer told us to bring it in and while limping to the dealership with all gear lights flashing on the dash a new problem surfaced. Each time I came to a stop while using the break there was a loud thump under the car as it stopped. We haven't heard any diagnosis from the dealer yet, but we are wondering if anyone else has experienced a similar problem, as it sounds potentially major.
  • After reading the cthancock post, it dawned on me that just maybe, there was some deep dark secret cooperative effort between honda and chrysler to design and build the 2001 Civics. How else can you explain the chrysler-like qualities of the 2001 Civic? Now all we need is the head gaskets to start going at 20K miles...
  • Anyone else have to replace an O2 sensor? Pretty steep for this repair; what does the sensor do and can I live without it? I'm assuming it has something to do with the engine mixture. The mechanic also found a problems with the timing belt and a hole in the water pump. Had been using a private mechanic who I thought was good, until he used an oversized muffler and inappropriate spark plug wires. So, I tried a very highly rated mechanic who says the first guy likely didn't replace the seals (?) when the timing belt was replaced last year, and as a result the water pump and belt are now affected. Does this make sense to anyone? I'm struggling with it.
    --Matt
  • The dealer replaced a couple power modules that they said were recalled and everything is back to normal now. I was told the parts were recalled a couple weeks ago. Funny how I was sold a car with a known recall. I guess it isn't their responsibility. No?? Does anyone have any thoughts on buying cars so soon after releasing a new model? From the posts above it seems that Honda is still working out some major bugs. I'm just glad our civic broke down with this problem at home and not on a trip.

    One more thing... This might be a little petty but.. This morning I took a look at one of the doors and found that it had a fresh 3 inch dent from being "bitten" by another car door. The only place I can imagine this happened was at the dealer as it is obvious that it happened after driving through the last snow. The only place the car had been since then was the dealer's service lot (for 3 days).
  • Hey guys. I hope you can help. I just purchased a '97 EX Coupe with 156,000 miles on it. I was leary about buying a car w/so many miles, but it drove so well and sounded so good that I couldn't pass it up. I'm very happy w/the way that it drives, but have noticed that the lights dim intermittently. The battery was just replaced before I bought it. In reading through the posts, another guy had asked this same question but there was no response. Anyone else had this problem? What should I do?
  • cmukcmuk Posts: 5
    anybody else notice that going from 1st to 2nd gear is not as smooth as other gears? I read from earlier posts that some people have problems gear shifting out of second gear. I am wondering if other people had this problem. I had my incidence from going to 3rd to 2nd today and it shifted out making some funny grinding noise. I may have just shifted wrong but am wondering if it is a manufacturing defect. Also, i noticed that in consistent basis, the tyranny wouldn't move/shift as smoothly going from 1st to 2nd gear. If anybody has experience with this, any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • brorjacebrorjace Posts: 588
    Cmuk, Sounds like your synchronizers are worn or starting to wear. Be careful!

    First, check your manual transmission fluid level or have someone else check it. There is no dipstick so you have to go under your car and undo a bolt to see if your tranny is properly filled.

    Even if full, synchronizers are the weak spot in most manual transmissions ... especially ones driven 'briskly.' People tend to do the 1-2 shift particularly hard.

    Whatever you do, don't shifter "harder" than you already are. Try to be patient and, while being firm, shifting into gear a little SLOWER than you've been doing.

    Also you may be able to maximize the shift-feel of your tranny by switching to Redline MTL instead if the stock Honda fluid (which is actually pretty good, BTW). This specialty synthetic gear oil has greatly improved the shifting feel of my '90 Integra and '95 Civic Coupe. It can just be a trick to find locally.

    Just don't use synthetic MOTOR oil in your tranny as the problem will only get worse. Normal synthetic motor oils are actually too slippery for synchros to do their job so shifting will feel "notchier" than ever and the tranny will probably be damaged over time.

    --- Bror Jace
  • justinjustin Posts: 1,918
    As I am sure many new 2001 Coupe owners have noticed, the new Coupe handles flatter and better than the previous one, but it seems to handle rough roads worse. It is not as smooth. It sometimes feels "bouncy". Is this normal? Does anyone know if Honda took into consideration the fact that most Civic owners live in urban areas that have CRAP roads? I love the car, just wonder if I can make some adjustments to make it hit bumps and waves better. Tire pressure? Different kind of tire? I know the coupe is calibrated different than the new sedan. A friend has a LX 2001 sedan with 14" wheels instead of 15". It leans more in turns, but it is also "smoother - more refined" on the bumps.

    Any info/ideas?

    JJ
  • gasguzzgasguzz Posts: 214
    Your comparison doesn't seem equal as the 15"-tire models have the rear stabilizers. The 14"-ers would also lean more because of the higher profile rubbers. I'm curious, what is different on the suspension setup on the sedan/coupe (given the same equipment level)?
    You can improve handling by starting with better-than-stock shocks, swapping to higher performance absorbers with adjustable damping and rebound rates - all these with a relative price to match.
    Just keep it mind - you are still driving a Civic.
    Good luck.
  • brorjacebrorjace Posts: 588
    You're saying the 2001 Civic handles better than the 2000?? I find that hard to believe and it goes against everything I've read in all the magazines.

    Honda compromised the front suspension's performance (using McCheapson struts) instead of their excellent prior layout which could be fine tuned to an infinite degree in order to get a lower hood line.

    This was a really stupid move and it has turned me off completely. I'm not sure what's gonna replace my '95 Civic ... but I know it won't be the current Civic.

    What's even worse is that they use this cruddy set-up in the Integra's replacement ... the RS-X. The nearest competitor to the RS-X is the Celica GT-S ... which also has the same chinsy struts. Looks like I'm screwed. <:^(

    --- Bror Jace
  • akapla01akapla01 Posts: 5
    Just wondering if anyone has experienced any of the following problems with their 2000 Civic. I have had all of them fixed by different dealers:

    1) Drivers seat squeaked constantly -- replaced the entire seat frame
    2) Right front strut made creaking noises when turning right -- replaced right front strut
    3) Trunk filled with water when it rained -- removed and resealed the rear window
    4) Front seat belts don't retract all the time -- lubed 'em
    5) Front windows made squeaking noises when going down, and they were so slow! -- lubed the window tracks and replaced a motor or something else that Honda had redesigned

    6) This problem I haven't reported to Honda yet -- When accelerating (I have a 5 speed) in 2nd or 3rd gears, the car jerks ever so slightly. I also have a 99 civic (EX 4 door) that drives wonderfully -- accelerates perfectly all the time. Never had any problems with it.

    Has anyone else experienced any of these problems, or am I just the lucky one?

    Thanks...
  • gasguzzgasguzz Posts: 214
    What have you read - about suspension design or 00/01 comparo?
    Mechanically, the 2k double-wish setup would be ideal. Then there's the application. I haven't read the issue, but posted previously was that the 2k1 had better numbers (turning radius/ratio and a faster slalom). Assuming/given that, the 2k1 would have better handling regardless of suspension design (considering the new engine dynamics too).
    And a lower hood? When is aerodynamics (or styling) a real advantage on the average road.
    Enjoy.
  • gasguzzgasguzz Posts: 214
    Sorry to hear of your car problems.
    The 99-00 models are the same car, the only difference in these years are the exterior color options available. Do you have the same 6th-gen cars? Or do you have a 7th-gen 01 which you bought in late 00 (as the 00 model year has the double-wish fronts with no struts)?
    You're right, there are hardly negatives on the last round of the 6th-gens (99-00).
    Good luck.
  • brorjacebrorjace Posts: 588
    Every magazine that test drove the car said the newer one's MacPherson struts aren't quite as good as the previous model's wishbone layout: Car & Driver, Sport Compact Car, etc ...

    --- Bror Jace
  • akapla01akapla01 Posts: 5
    I have 99 and 00 Civics. They are identical, other than color...
  • justinjustin Posts: 1,918
    Can't speak for new Civic sedans, but the Coupe's are better this year.

    You haven't actually driven the 2001 Civic Coupe EX. If you had, you wouldn't be making those statements that EVERYONE seems to be clinging to when it comes to new Civic handling being downgraded because of the new suspension. The new Civic Coupe EX handily outhandles and outperforms a 2000 Civic EX coupe in EVERY way but one. The one thing the 2000 does better is in a straight line on the highway - it is smoother and handles bumps in a less harsh way. The new Coupe is actually like a sports car in the way it handles. The steering responds to the slightest input - takes a while to get used to - and the car in a corner is great. Your body naturally leans, but the car does not. Why does everyone assume that struts are worse than a double wishbone suspension? Out of the box stock cars are a perfect example. Cars with double wishbone suspensions are sedans - for comfort. Cars with struts are sometimes cheaper, but explain why Porsche and Co use struts... If the double wishbone was really and truly the way to go, it would be used by all performance cars.
  • brorjacebrorjace Posts: 588
    Proper "wishbones" are a layout that provides a greater degree of control, adjustment and durability than the flimsy "strut-type" suspensions all things being equal. This is the reason Honda made a big deal about switching to them over 10 years ago.

    I have no idea why some (but not all) of the German manufacturers have continued to use struts all this time except that they are cheap, lightweight and they handle well ... at least when they are new. Has Ferrari ever used struts? I don't think so and last time I checked the better Mercedes cars didn't have them either.

    Cars built specifically for racing use the better, conventional "wishbone" layout: CART, F-1, SCCA, etc ...

    --- Bror Jace
  • justinjustin Posts: 1,918
    "CARS BUILT FOR RACING."

    I don't know about anyone else, but my economy car is not built for racing. It would be a joke if it was. If I was buying a car for racing purposes, it would most certainly not be any Honda. Honda's are economy cars - always have been. Even the S2000 gets decent MPG's.

    Like I said - actually drive a new EX Coupe, even on a track if you want, then drive a 2000 STOCK EX Coupe. See which one handles better.

    The 2000 one might be able to be tuned up more, but, to me, if I was going to spend thousands to tune up my car, I would have just bought the TT Coupe and been done with it :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Actually many cars use a lower wishbone that a McPherson strut attaches to.

    Struts have their plusses and minuses...camber adjustment is a pain with struts for one thing.

    Often a strut brace to connect the upper strut towers is a great way to get rid of weird alignment changes while driving hard.
  • gasguzzgasguzz Posts: 214
    Lately, the argument between the 00/01 seems to be subjective. I drive a 00 Sedan EX while my brother drives an 01 Sedan EX (the very same equipment level/trim cars). Point - you can drive around the track the whole day, but if you don't have an instrumented comparison, then you're talking apples and oranges (if you're not a pro driver).
    Question: What are the slalom/skidpad numbers? Has any of the mags done reviews on the same level/trim? The numbers level the playing field.
    Suspension is only but one part of the equation, while handling is to the entire car.
    I drive at 32psi F&R, adding to the bumpier ride (our minivan is our long-driver). I feel the 00 is smoother over the bumps, but the 01 is more comfortable (softer shocks?) - but all that may be SUBJECTIVE without the numbers.
    Either way, both cars drive/ride great for what they are.
  • justinjustin Posts: 1,918
    I agree. It is nice that the new Civic EX's have 15" wheels now. I think I am going to lower my tire pressure to perhaps soften the bumps a little bit.
  • gpwynngpwynn Posts: 1
    In response to message 362 and 363, I have recently purchased a Civic LX and have also began to notice the road noise. I do a lot of highway driving and am starting to get pissed. Did either of you take yours to the dealership, if so what was there response? Any suggestions.
  • cwosignscwosigns Posts: 13
    I posted this question earlier, but w/no response. I purchased a '97 Civic EX Coupe with 156, 500 miles. It runs like a dream, but I notice at night the lights dim intermittently. Anyone else had this problem, or know what I can expect if I take it to the dealer?

    Chris
    Cincinnati, Ohio
  • igloomasterigloomaster Posts: 249
    I'm having my very first problem with my 99 Civic CX Hatch.

    New England got BLASTED with snow on Tuesday.
    I shoveled out my civic 3 times.

    Anyhow, today I'm back to work. I dug out the car, it started fine, and everything was going great until I got it up on the highway. When I hit 45 - 50 mph, I started getting this pulsation. I could feel it in the steering wheel, and my bottle of spring water was rattling in the holder. I pulled over into the breakdown lane and got out to look at the tires, figuring one was going flat. The tires were fine! I pulled back out, and accelerated normally. The automatic transmission seemed to shift smoothly and normally.

    I don't know what the source of the pulse is!

    I'm still at work; I'm going to drive it home and see if it happens again. Weird.

    It was FINE this past weekend.

    HELP!!!!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Look for a buidup of snow/ice on the inside of one or more rims, putting them out of balance
  • igloomasterigloomaster Posts: 249
    that must have been it, because the pulsation is GONE!

    PHEW!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • bklynboybklynboy Posts: 16
    (I posted this at the Civic 3 board already, so you don't have to read it twice)

    http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/servicemmy.cfm


    Service Bulletin Number: 161100

    Bulletin Sequence Number: 157

    Date of Bulletin: 0011

    NHTSA Item Number: SB615796

    Make: HONDA

    Model: CIVIC

    Year: 2001

    Component: FUEL:FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY

    Summary: SUBJECT REGARDING FUEL TANK CAPACITY CORRECTION. *TT


    and then:


    Service Bulletin Number: 161200

    Bulletin Sequence Number: 157

    Date of Bulletin: 0012

    NHTSA Item Number: SB615808

    Make: HONDA

    Model: CIVIC

    Year: 2001

    Component: INTERIOR SYSTEMS:INSTRUMENT PANEL:GAUGE:INDICATOR:GAS

    Summary: INFORMATION ON ERRATIC FUEL GAUGE READING. *TT


    I called my dealer's service tech and told him about the above info. I have been having erratic fuel gauge readings for a while, and my gas mileage seems really low (like 20's). He is ordering the Fuel Tank sensor (not sure if that is the actual name of the part) for my car, a 2001 LX, and will replace it next week. It supposedly takes about an hour.


    There is also stuff at the NHTSA site about air conditioning problems. I don't know about that yet, but the way things are going with my car, I imagine I will have to deal with that, too. I thought Hondas were supposed to be well made?

This discussion has been closed.