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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • Hey Guys,

    I got an oil change this past weekend and noticed there was rusting in the engine compartment. The dealer service dept said it was the exhaust manifold (I didn't know what it was) and it was normal for it to rust even though I had the car for less than 9 months. He said that it is possible to see BRAND new cars with rusty exhaust manifold... Is it really normal?

    Thanks.
  • pklaspklas Posts: 20
    I have recently purchased a 2000 Civic Coupe EX. In the second week of owning the car, my heater stopped working and only cold air would come out.
    I took it into the dealership, and they replaced the thermostat. The next day, the same problem arose. For two weeks after that, the heater seemed to work fine.

    Tonight, I drove my car for about 35 miles on the highway. Parked the car for about 40 minutes. Started the car again, turned the heater after a few minutes : Cold air.

    Left the car alone for about 30 minutes, started again: Hot air would came out from the vents.

    Started to head back on the highway: Heat was to high so turned the temp dial half way. Started to get cold in the car and turned the dial to a hotter setting, and again all I would get is cold air.

    Has anyone had similar problems? Any suggestions on what might be causing this problem?
  • app1nagapp1nag Posts: 15
    your posts are confusing...one one hand you say do not ever pay more than invoice but that's exactly what you just did.
  • app1nagapp1nag Posts: 15
    While looking through prior posts I noticed one from ec123 about a squeaky seat in an Si. I've had the same problem and was wondering if others are also experiencing this. Honda has already replaced the seat rails and this worked for about a week. They will now be replacing the seat back but they are not sure if this will fix it.
  • cravecrave Posts: 4
    i took my 2001 EX to the dealer, turns out that the windshield molding on the passenger side is a bit loose. maybe because it wasn't attached or glued properly. so the plastic parts vibrate at high speeds. talked to my friend who has an accord coupe, and she had similar problem. they're ordering replacement parts and will be fixed next week.
    app1nag, good observation there....
  • ec123ec123 Posts: 12
    Please let me know if replacing the seat back works...the sound was pretty annoying for a while...but now that I'm shifting better...I find that I'm not encountering the sound anymore. Are you a new stick driver or a veteran? I'm wondering if our driving habits have anything to do with it. Regardless...the seat shouldn't squeak...so please share if the problem was solved...and how you got the dealer to do all that work. Thanks!
  • Attention all of you in this conference!!

    If anyone is experiencing heavy paint chipping problems on their Honda Civic Si's please read on.

    If your model year(s) are 1999-2000 and you have noticed excessive paint chipping on your car's body panels here's what we need to do.

    Please e-mail Me at [email protected] with all of your paint complaints. I'm trying to put a major complaint in with the manufacturer's recall department. This might mean a recall-repaint order to be filed. OR Honda Civic Si owners may be compensated for the loss of value the defect has caused. I know this is a problem. The paint is too thin, and isnt flexable enough to stand up to minor elements. Please help out if you get a chance! Your name is not important. If you wish, please indicate the area of the US you live in..ex..midwest/eastcoast/westcoast/ and so on. Thanks!!
  • The remanufactured Jasper engine seems to be doing well in my '85 Civic Wagon. I just did the 500m oil change that's required under the warranty.

    The engine runs smooth, so let's hope I go another 240K.

    Thanks again for your previous comments.

    j.w.
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Glad to see all is going well.I like to see those high mileage cars keep going strong so good luck..
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    I hope you find your money to be well spent.

    The problem with investing a huge sum of money in an old car is this...Suppose it gets wrecked tomorrow? When you put a 4000.00 engine into a 400.00 car, you still have a 400.00 car.

    It's kinda scary...in case of an accident, the insurance company won't care about your recent investment.

    On the other hand..what can you get for 4000.00 these days?

    Also, a 240,000 mile car is getting tired in other ways...even a Honda!

    Tough call...I guess only time will determine if your decision was a prudent one.

    Personally, I would have walked away from it.
  • My first question is do you guys take your civics to dealers, find your own machanic, or DIY? I heard that as long as you keep the reciept of the work performed or the part changed, you won't void the warranty.

    My new civic is getting close to the 7500 miles mark. According to the manual, the 7500 mile service includes "adjust clutch and rear brakes". This might be hard to do it by myself. I'm thinking to take it to the dealer now.

    Thanks for any advice.
  • app1nagapp1nag Posts: 15
    I have driven stick shift cars for a while now...the problem is the seat and not how we are shifting. I will keep you posted.....Neil
  • jtomjtom Posts: 26
    Hello. I was reading response #102 and I have the same problem w/ loss of power and hesitation on my civic w/ 94,000 miles. I too have a manual vx hb and it had been driven many highway miles when new and now it's doing alot of stop and go. What would cause this hesitation, although minor, it's kind of irritating. Fuel filter? Spark plugs/ wires/pcv? Thanks.

    Also, when I brake, I feel this pulsing/vibration which causes my steering wheel to vibrate also. Is this the pads or rotor?

    I am trying to avoid too much cost in tuning it up, but I am a chick w/o much mechanical skills and will try to do as much on our own. thanks in advance for the response and help.
  • a friend of mine has a 1997 civic with 35,000 miles on it and the exhaust manifold is cracked pretty severely. the mechanics at the honda dealer are telling him the part (not including labor) is going to cost $800; does that sound right???
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    There is a warranty extension program out that I believe that car should fall under. So knowing this then it should be a covered by warranty component.Especialy if the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter are one on his model, since they can not be replaced seperately.Ask them about the extension program and if all else fails call American Honda because a low mileage car such as that should not have a cracked manifold.
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    If you use Honda parts and keep the reciepts then you should have no problems with your warranty. The only eception being that if something is installed incorrectly and causes obvious damage as a result.

    Jtom,
    Maybe the hesitation is a bad throttle position sensor. Can you get it to happen at the same throttle position(meaning foot pushed down the same amount)or does speed and position vary? Sometimes lack of power is also caused by the floor mat being jammed up underneath the gas pedal.Other than these simple things it is hard to say, could be possible ignition problems or even carbon build up on valves. Try to isolate when it happens and let us know.As far as your brake problem.You have warped rotors and if they haven't been cut before then you can have them cut and should put new pads on at that time also.If they have been cut then you should just put on new rotors, because as the rotors get thinner they get easier to warp again..Good luck
  • I have been told by the Honda Dealer Mechanic that this noise is normal in the Standard Civic and it is coming from the differential. The more expensive Honda's have more insullation and undercoating and that I could add my own insullation and undercoating, he also said that women have more sensitive hearing than men and that they have had no other complaints.

    The Honda factory rep also said that the noise was normal and that it was coming from the differential.
  • I have been told by the Honda Dealer Mechanic that this noise is coming from the differential and that this noise is normal for the Standard Civic. He also said that the more expensive Hondas have more insulation and undercoating and that if I were to add my own it might help since women have more sensitive hearing than men.

    The Honda factory rep also said that the noise was normal and it was coming from the differential. I have asked several other Honda Civic owners about this noise and ,so far,nobody has heard of this problem.

    Three local mechanics have told me that it sounds like a bearing noise and that it not a normal sound.

    Please help with your feedback.

    Thank you.
  • smoresmore Posts: 25
    I have a '00 EX coupe and my friend has a '98 EX coupe. I bought mine on his recommendation. However, the one MAJOR complaint we both have about the Civic is excessive road noise. I think what you're hearing may be normal. Although their reliability record is unmatched, they are definitely not the quietest cars ever. Hopefully, the reliability will overshadow the road noise in the end (if that makes any sense). I think Honda may also do this to "encourage" people to upgrade to the Accord... and in my case it'll probably work.
  • pklaspklas Posts: 20
    Does the noise occur when accelerating or is it constant?
  • Hi folks,
    For the last 30k miles my 93 Civic has had a knocking noise from the engine on cold starts. It goes away after the engine has reached operating temp. The valves were adjusted, so I assume the mech ck'd out that part of the engine. Anybody have any suggestions? TIA.

    Russ
  • My sister just bought a 2001 Civic LX 4dr. She was really excited about the car. In the past two weeks, however, (the car has less than 500 miles) she has had electrical problems. The first time, the car stalled at highway speeds and all warning lights came on. She was lucky not to get into an accident... On the way to the dealeship, the engine would stall every time she pressed the brake pedal. The dealer told her that the aftermarket alarm installation had caused wiring problems... The dealer fixed the "wiring problem" for $500. Today, a similar problem occured: she tried to start the car and nothing happened. Only the warning lights came on ! A few minutes later, a second try to start the engine was successful, but it seems that electric power had been interrupted, since the clock was flashing the wrong time...
    Obviously, the electrical problem has not been fixed. I suspect that the immobilizer ignition key might have a problem. Does anyone else have similar electrical problems with 2001 Civics ? Or does my sister just have a lemon of Honda variety ?
  • lokkilokki Posts: 1,200
    Check post 83 in Topic 1398. The reference isn't to my car, but I recalled the post and found it.
    The problem sounds rather similar.

    In my opinion, while the dealer is not responsible for fixing the problem under the car warranty (assuming that the Problem IS caused by the aftermarket alarm system), but the company that installed your alarm system should be responsible. You should pursue reimbursement from them for the money you paid to repair the car. If necessary, be prepared to go through small claims court.
  • I bought my Civic in March of 1999. I've been having problems with the horn since then, starting about 3 months after I bought it. It first happened in 6/99, and contributed to a collision. I was backing out of a parking spot, and a Dodge Ram next to me started to back towards me. I tried honking the horn, but nothing happened. I hammered the switch with my fist, heard the click of the switch, but no sound came from the horn. After getting backed into and getting over a thousand buck of damage done to my car, I got the repairs done and brought it to a dealer to get the horn looked at. They couldn't figure out what was wrong and just cleaned up some connections, unplugged the horn's fuse, and plugged it back in. It worked fine. They also told me that the horn wouldn't be under warranty because, even though it happened prior to the accident, they claim I can't prove that and they say the horn broke because of the accident.

    The horn worked fine for about 3 weeks, and now once a month usually, the horn will fail. When it breaks, here are the symptoms. I'll park the car, and walk away using the remote to try and lock the doors and sound the horn. I double-click the lock button and I hear the door locks go down. Normally I'll also hear the horn sound as well. When broken, I obviously don't hear the horn. If I open the door and press the switch on the steering wheel column, I hear the switch click but the horn doesn't go off. If I press the steering column switch repeatedly, harder and harder, it will eventually sound and the remote will make the horn go off fine afterwards until the horn fails the next time.

    The dealer hasn't been much help. I can rarely get the car to them with the problem because it usually fixes itself by the time I drive the 10-15 minutes to the dealer. They cleaned the connections, oiled the switch, and still the problem keeps coming back. Eventually, they got tired of guessing and just replaced the horn a month ago, and I thought that fixed it until it happened again today.

    I'm an electrical engineer, and I can't think of many reasons why this is happening. Neither the remote or the switches on the steering column will cause the horn to sound, yet hitting the switches on the column repeatedly will make it work. I can only surmise that moisture or dirty contacts are being fixed by repeated spikes of electric current as I try the horn again and again.

    Has anyone else had this problem occur to them, or can anyone offer any assistance? The dealer is pretty much at a loss and they can't think of anything. I'm half tempted to just have them replace all of the wiring for the horn going from the steering column to the horn itself.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    The quality of the installation can vary greatly. I have seen cars BUTCHERED by some 18 year old stereo or alarm installer! I've seen bare wires, lousy splices, you name it.

    Any car, even a Honda can have problems, no doubt about that. Don't blame the car though when some aftermarket guy did a slock job on it.
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    I will check out a schematic tomorrow to make sure they havent changed it but I think the horn buttons still apply the ground and if so I wouldn't think that ground and the entry computers ground would be the same or would both be bad. So either it has an intermitant connector or you have another bad horn.Which isn't all that uncommon.I will try to check and get back if I am wrong.Check it with a test light or volt meter to determine what if any signal you are loosing but I suspect it is just another bad horn unless you have an aftermarket alarm.Which may open up another can of worms.. :)
  • gasguzzgasguzz Posts: 214
    Watch out for the Best-Buy types. My nephew went to have his head unit swapped and they were charging him nada for install but some $70 to remove the old unit (go figure) - so I installed it for him when I had the time.
    The only real "hassle" is working with the dash, the electronics is pretty straightforward.
    For a $3-400 system, Pioneer/Blau/KW/Sony heads become a matter of preference. Speakers - Pioneer typically offers the best bang for the buck.
    Good luck.
  • If you have a manual trans honda, or an automatic for that manner, a whirring noise will uaually be a bearing that is going out. My friend has a 98 civic which would make a SLIGHT amount of noise when he would sit at idle. I told him it probably was the pilot bearing. When he took it in, they actually replaced 5 bearings in the 5 speed tranny under "goodwill" (the car was out of warranty) and said that some bad bearings were installed. Hope this helps.
  • The "scheduled maintenance" you are referring to is to adjust the clutch pedal freeplay. The clutch, itself, it self-adjusting for wear. The rear brakes are also self-adjusting. Most manuals state 4-6 clicks on the parking brake. Any less than four and the brakes might not be able to pull away from the drums enough, which will boil the brake fluid if it gets hot enough. If you have access to a service manual, the clutch pedal freeplay adjustment is fairly easy. Hope this helps.
  • Has anything changed with the car before the knocking noise occurred? What grade of oil are you using? Also, how is the level of the oil? If you suspect it is something beyond the simple checks, you might want to have the oil pressure checked. It sounds like the valvetrain might be a little starved for oil, since the viscosity of multigrade (which I assume you are using) is thinner at startup. As with most problems, it's hard to say. How many miles are on the engine? Hope this helps.
  • I have a 95 Civic DX, which does not have a headlight on warning alarm so I have on several occasions left my lights on and drained my battery. Has anyone found a either Honda part or 3rd party warning signal that could be wired in to alert me that my lights are on so I don't keep running down my battery? Any suggestions about where I could find one?

    Thanks,
  • pklaspklas Posts: 20
    I had an intermittent heater problem (cold air would come out of vents) and here is an excerpt of the letter I sent. I want everyone's opinion on what Honda should do for me:


    LETTER:

    Further to our numerous telephone conversations, I would like to thank you for giving your immediate attention to the above noted issue. I would also like to commend the service staff at the Honda Dealership for their professionalism. The staff have all been very courteous. The above noted problem is not a service issue, but rather a build quality issue.

    As you may recall, the reason for my initial call to your department was out of concern about a trial and error approach being taken towards this problem. I do understand that sometimes this is necessary. My real concern, however, was the fact that the intermittent heat issue was an unusual problem. Both you and Darren Reid have communicated that this problem was a first in the annals of Honda's Technical Department. As you are likely aware, the heat issue was indeed peculiar. In fact, an unused bolt was found in the intake manifold which was left dangling inside of the engine causing it to restrict the flow of coolant to the heater core. This revelation was shocking to say the least. Consequently, the engine had to be disassembled and the head gasket was replaced. I think you would agree this is not a desirable or common repair to perform on a car with less than 6,000 km. As I understand, Honda Canada has sent this “mysterious” bolt to the assembly plant in Ohio to obtain an explanation. I can only assume that Honda Canada feels the same way as I do.

    The problem was not caused by a defect, but rather an act of carelessness (also evidenced by several other deficiencies). A defective component is one thing, but an unused bolt (not even a part of the car) dangling inside of the drivetrain is alarming. This is indicative of poor workmanship. One can only assume that this is likely a sign of things to come. I find this disturbing since Honda prides and markets itself on the build quality and reliability of the vehicles it manufactures. This is the very reason why I purchased a Honda and ultimately paid a premium for. Clearly, someone at the assembly plant was careless. As a result, I will likely end up paying for this individual’s mistake in terms of reliability. I am confident Honda Canada will agree that such uncertainty should not be happening at this early stage of ownership. Obviously, my confidence in the build quality and overall reliability of my vehicle has been undermined. I now cannot in good faith and as a matter of law sell this vehicle without disclosing this act of carelessness. In essence, my car’s resale value has been diminished considerably.

    I would appreciate hearing from someone in a senior management position at Honda to further discuss my concerns about this matter. I will be anxiously waiting for this phone call.
  • Is the pinswitch on the driver's door working? If you leave the key in the ignition does it give you a warning? If it does, then relay might be out. Here's how you can add your own circuit:

    Standard Bosch relay
    pin 85--put 12 volts ignition
    pin 86--put to ground
    pin 87--not used
    pin 87a-to negative lead of a piezo buzzer or whatever signaling device
    pin 30--to door pinswitch

    By using a relay, when the key is on, the relay is energized, throwing 30 and 87 together. This opens the circuit for the ground of the buzzer. So if you opened the door while the headlights were on, the buzzer would not sound. When the ignition is killed, this puts 30 and 87a together to close the circuit, completing the negative path so if the door is opened, the completed circuit would sound the buzzer if the headlights were left on. Properly fuse the relay for safety, just a few amps are needed. Hope this helps you out.
  • The positive side of the buzzer can either be put on the parking light or headlight output, whichever signal you want the buzzer to warn you with.
  • Three weeks and 200 miles ago I purchased a 2001 Honda Civic Sedan EX. I had the dealer install additional equipment of an alarm system and a cassette player after questioning how the warranty on the car would be affected if I had those items installed. I felt that I could get better quality and pricing than what Honda offered. Four times, to quote #230, "it seems that the electric power had been interrupted, since the clock was flashing the wrong time", and the radio code had to punched in. The first time, thinking I had done someting wrong when using the cd player ( my cd being stuck in the player), I went immediately to the dealership. I was asked by the salesperson had I disconnected the battery. The salesperson proceeded to resolve the difficulty and after a few minutes decided to punch in the radio code, reset the clock, and to tell me to call should I have any other difficulties. Well I did, and I called. I was told by the salesperson, that another person had called about the same problem and at that time the service department did not have an answer for them. The salesperson told me that they would check with the the service department to see if they had received any additional information and call me back. Which they did, stating that the service department had no new information as to repairing the problem and that Honda was aware of the problem. And, in the meantime to just keep reentering the code. I would like to know if anyone else is experiencing this or similar, how I should proceed, and what are reasonable expectations for a timely resolution.
  • Instead of going through a salesperson, I would go directly to the service manager. Tell him that these 2 items were dealer installed and that your car was not doing this until after the installation.

    Is sounds like there is either an obvious wiring problem (sounds like the 12v memory lead to the radio and clock has been disconnected) The switched 12v lead will allow the radio and clock to come on, which is why the code needs to be put in.

    I wouldn't put up with the run-around crap. There is an obvious problem (either tecnnician or a factory alarm wiring harness flaw) and they should repair it. Good luck.
  • hjbchjbc Posts: 4
    My 2001 Civic Ex sedan is less than 2 weeks old. On 3 mornings, the radio has gone to code & I have to enter the security code / lost all preset programming. Sport Honda (Silver Spring MD) says they're having trouble with the radios, that Honda is trying to decide what to do, and to check back in 1 or 2 weeks.
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Honda has sent out what they call a service acknowlegement about the power/radio problem stating that they are aware of the problem but as of yet have no remedy.In the meantime if the radio accepts the code each day just keep entering it in. If it doesn't work at all then you can make an appointment to see if there is another problem with the circuit.They suggest removing the fuse for 30 seconds and reinstalling it to try and reset the no power ones but if that don't work then to get it diagnosed.
  • lokkilokki Posts: 1,200
    These gentlemen have given sophisticated answers, but for me, (an electrical simpleton) when my wife had the same problem on her Toyota Tercel some years ago, I went to Radio Shack and bought a lights on buzzer for about $10.... I never hardwired it in like I should have. To see if it would work, I just identified the right fuses in the fuse box, removed the fuses and then stuck the bare end of the wire in, and replaced the fuse to hold the wire in place. I then stuffed the tiny buzzer inside the fuse box and put the cover back on. It worked fine, and was still fine when I sold the car a year or so later.

    Not elegant but fast cheap and easy...

    Pretty sure the Radio Shack will still sell what you need
  • I own a prelude, but they're close enough in this respect. I recently changed my clutch and in doing so noticed I had a cracked CV joint. I ran out to the local parts store and bought 4 new boots. I replaced all of them and got the car back together, within a week I noticed grease on one of my wheels. It came from the outer CV joint boot. Previous to this I was endevouring in a bit of an immature act but dropping the clutch from about 4k and making all the noise etc. I then turned my wheels hard right, to turn (go around a cement thing.) This is the only hard driving I've done since and I was wondering if that maneuver placed undue force on the cv joint boot? I used pliers to tighten the straps on the boots the first time, is there a better method? I've also heard that you should allow a clutch a certain number of miles to develop a wear-patter, any basis to that? Thanks for the help!

    -Mike
  • Cv joint boots require special clamps that are a one-time use clamp. There is also a special set of pliers to properly tighten them. It sounds like one of them loosened. Hopefully the joint isn't damaged. Once a new clutch is installed, it should be driven normally for a few hundred miles. Dropping a clutch is hard on motor mounts, as well as cluth plate torsion springs, splines, and other related components. But sometimes ya just gotta do it, ya know!! Usually when grease gets thrown out of a joint, the cv joint is history. If it starts popping in a turn, just throw a reman. half shaft in.

    Hope this helps.
  • pklaspklas Posts: 20
    I have been experiencing squeaks on my Civic since day one.

    After driving 30-40 minutes on the highway and then shutting the car off, the car makes really load squeaks upon exiting the car. It appears that it is coming from the front side of the car. Sort of sounds like a couple going at it on a creaky bed. When I try to rock the car, this creaking sounds is coming from the front wheel area. I'm concerned because the car also pulls and drifts at highway speeds.

    Also, I have been getting creaking sounds from the rear left in the interior after hitting larger bumps. I'm not sure if it is emanating from a window or seat. It is difficult to pinpoint.

    Anyone had similar problems or suggestions on what may be causing these creaks?
  • Well, those noises do sound peculiar. The drifting could be caused by low tire pressure, camber or toe wear on the tires, or an alighment problem. It is possible for a bolt to be loose, which, if it was your camber adjustment bolt, will definitely affect the alighment and possibly causing the noise. Check it out, and maybe swap the front tires to let you know if it's a tire problem causing the drifting. The rear noise could be a seatbelt reatractor, or something just fell back there. Sometimes noises just suck, they can be so hard, without having all the panels ripped out and having someone else riding back there. I had a 96 ex and the panels aren't THAT hard to rip out. I'd check out the noise and make sure everything is tight. Hope this helps.
  • I've had my share of squeaks to deal with as well, in my 00 Si. As far as the noise when exiting the vehicle, try exiting the same way but without the emergency brake on. Try rocking the car as well with the emergency brake off.

    There is a service bulletin about a squeak coming from the rear shelf where the speakers sit.
  • Anyone who reads this will be glad you own a Honda. After reading all of your 250+ complains they are nothing comared with what I have been through. Here is my story . . .

    Worst nightmare of my life! Good luck to those of
    you have horrific problems like myself. VOA will
    not do anything unless your car meets the EXACT
    letter of the Lemon Law. In brief your car needs
    to go in four times for the same thing or 30 days
    out of service. My car meets 15 days out of
    service and in three times for the same thing.
    Let me list the ways . . .
    1. Comfort control module on the circuit board was
    burned and melted which shorted the battery - this
    was the final straw for me leaving me stranded in
    a bad part of town on a Friday night.
    2. Warped door panel
    3. Drivers door was installed incorrectly causing
    a loud vibrating noise. Once this was fixed I was
    told due to the large door and the weight of it I
    would need to come in periodically to have it
    tightened.
    4. Fuel system gauge was not properly calibrated
    5. Right front turn signal replaced due to
    moisture build up
    6. Vibration in car when window open/cracked
    7. Window off track
    8. Rear hatch would not open from the inside
    9. Brake lights on all the time-they had to
    readjust the switch and replace if it happened
    again
    10. Drivers side window switch replaced
    11. Passenger seat lever would not not allow seat
    to tilt
    12. Replacement of dashboard-I was told they are
    faulty.
    13. When the nose of the car is parked down hill
    about a 6-7% grade or less it will not start. It
    has to be rolled to level ground then it will
    start. The dealer has never been able to duplicate
    this and therefore will not check anything out or
    replace anything. This happens quite often.
    14. Sluggish going from reverse to drive and vise
    versa
    15. When going from drive to reverse sometimes it
    will not go into reverse. You have to shift to
    park then reverse.

    I have read almost all of everyones complaints and
    I see some definate similarities. A previous
    gentleman wrote that if everyone would please call
    VOA or write them then maybe they would start
    paying more attention to everyones problems. I
    will say that I have now gotten rid of this
    nightmarish car and got back into a Honda Civic and
    am much happier now. I sold my 1995 Civic with
    44K miles and paid off to get this darn beetle -
    stupid me, but a mistake I will never make again!
    Also, due to the treatment we received at our
    dealer ship and VOA my boyfriend who is a 6 time VW
    owner will never buy VW again. I've never been
    treated such a lack of respect. The dealer is
    Roseville VW-never buy from them, never buy a VW!
  • I gotta 2K1 Civic that drops 1/4 tank of gas on the gauge, but after driving it awhile the gauge returns to normal. Gonna be taking it to the Dealer, but wanted to know if anyone else was having this problem.
    Thanks
  • pklaspklas Posts: 20
    Brought the car into the dealership last week. The squeak upon exiting the car was caused by defective flanges on the catalytic converter. They were replaced and I have yet been able to replicate the sound (so far, so good).

    With respect to the squeak from the rear, some padding was added to the rear pillar/seatbelt retractor area. Again, problem has been solved. I was impressed that the dealership was able to solve these problems. Squeaks are usually difficult to pinpoint. Kudos to the dealership.
    Apparently, there was a TSB just released on this build quality issue.

    As a whole, I have had a hell of a time with my new car. The heater would not work on an intermittent basis. It took the dealership three attempts to find out what the problem was. (1. Thermostat 2. Water Valve 3. Disassemble the engine). Apparently, a bolt, not even a part of the car, was found inside the air intake manifold. From time to time, this bolt would be pushed into the radiator hose connected to the heater core. This caused it to restrict the flow of coolant to the core. As a result, the head gasket was replaced. Talk about poor build quality. I guess US assembly is still inferior to the [non-permissible content removed]. As far as I am concerned, the car will never be the same.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    It'll be "the same".

    Even the best of cars can have a mis-placed bolt.

    Things that shouldn't happen can happen.

    that's why warranties exist.

    Just enjoy your car!
  • pklaspklas Posts: 20
    Let me tell you, it isn't the same. The dealership gave me a base 4 door civic as a loaner and it had better acceleration. I do believe Honda does manufacture good cars, but the overall build quality of mine is sub-par. Obviously, I have a right to be ticked off. Especially, since I, as well as others, pay a premium for a Honda.

    Yes, warranties do exist. I'd prefer not to have to use it. This is the reason why many people purchase Civics. Replacing original factory parts is not something you want done to your vehicle at such an early stage. Disassembling the whole engine is shocking enough.

    Anyways, that is my two cents. I expect, as a reseller, you have to defend Honda's reputation. You earn your living by selling these cars. I have no problems with that. Don't get me wrong I know a number of people who are tickled pink with their Hondas. Mine just happens to be sub-par. Honda is not immune from producing a bad car. All car manufacturers produce bad cars. What separates the good from the bad is the company that takes responsibility for manufacturing a poorly built vehicle. I'm in discussion with Honda as we speak. I should find out shortly whether Honda will live up to its reputation of Customer Satisfaction.
  • Yeah, I meant loud above, not load. It's not a heavy vibration.

    Actually, the vibrating noise is getting much louder, and this morning on my way to work, it was terrible. Definitely something in the sun roof mechanism is rattling, and it just started a few days ago!

    I hope this isn't a sign of things to come.
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