Including 2 2000 Civic SI's and 2 02 SI's. Never a brake problem with any of them. And my fiance and I work for a HUGE used car dealer with over 40 outlets in over 10 states. Never heard of a Civic brake problem. Been cruising Edmunds for over 4 years now. No consistent brake problems. Just looked in my CR. No brake problems with the Civic. Have a subscription to R@T c@D and MT and guess what. I've never heard of Civic brakes having a tendency to have problems. Next.
4th Paragragh. I am not sure what month it was printed but here it is online. "...the brakes did fade badly..." I know that they were racing the car but still they used the word 'badly'.
Fade: Excessive heat to the rotors which affects the pads performance to slow the car down.
Glazed Rotors: High heat on the rotors and pads that cause the surface of the rotor to glaze over. (Honda Tech explained this one to me)
Not exactly the same thing but related. Both instants rotors get very hot there by affecting performance.
Such as racetrack duty. Hmmm. Doesn't sound like something Honda would recommend in a 2001 Civic. Again... There is no consistent reports of Civic brake problem under recommended usage.
Can't have it both ways. You can't say that you drove the car under normal circumstances and still experienced brake problems then post a link that shows only under severe testing conditions did the brakes start to fade. Either someone is full of it or they are driving their car like a maniac and deserve any brake problems they have.
For the past week or so, something subconsciously was bothering me about my 2002 civic ex sedan. I finally figured out what it was yesterday as I parked and shut off the engine, on a pitch-dark street at midnight. When you open any door, the interior lights do not go on.
And before everyone suggests that I check to make sure the switch near the maplights up front is set to the correct setting - I have tried it a hundred times, in each position.
The bulb is not burnt out, since the lights come on when i use the keyless entry to enter and exit the car.
am i hallucinating, or should those interior lights come on when you open a door? Yes, I realize that they come on and then "fade" when you take the key out of the ignition... but in this situation after the "fade" happens, if i am still sitting in the car and I open a door to exit, it stays completely dark inside.
Mats weren't standard on my Si, in either '02 or '99. Dealer threw 'em in on my '99 buy, and I paid extra on my '02 buy. A couple of things - Back in this or another thread, there's a link where you can buy Honda accessories much cheaper than you get them at a dealer. The mats come with some anchor pins to keep the driver's side mat from creeping forward and interfering with the peddles. A dealer in a hurry may not install those pins, so check to see if they are there or make sure you get the pins when you get the mats. Putting the pins in yourself is no biggie.
Engine idle jumps or surges when at stop and in gear/breaks applied. Just completed a tune up and added injector cleaner. Changed out plugs, cap and rotor. Air filter is clean. What else should I look at?
I have been out of town and just today checked the answers about the bad struts. I do agree with abc246 - msg. 1930 (I am not sure how to use this response system!) that the struts should never have gone bad this soon. From your responses, yes, I was fortunate to get such good service - but then too, that is an unspoken admission on their part that there is something definitely wrong with the Civics struts that was not corrected or done right to begin with at the factory. At any rate, thanks to all for their input.
Someone has started a petition for the Accords that don't start. If any Civic owners want to sign the petition and put in the comment section that they own a Civic instead of an Accord. The more signatures we can get with people who are having starting issues the closer to a resolution we may be able to come to.
I'm wondering if anyone out there has had any problems with the paint on the bonnet of their car rusting? My car is only 14 months old and about 2 months ago i noticed small rust spots on the hood when i was washing it. When i took the car to the dealership where it was purchased, they gave me the run around about rock chips, and not under warranty blah blah blah. Now the interesting thing is that i know a person who had the same problem and Honda Canada actually paid for a new paint job. I would like to gather more info before i start making people miserable at Honda Canada. The other thing is this: this isnt my first new car, and my previous car did not have rust (within the first year or ever!)
An excellent vehicle. Perfect. Mines is doing 150000 km equivalent to 93750 miles. It's 6 years old.I probably got a lucky one. The vehicle drives perfect. I have no problems other than oil changes, plugs. I have changed disc pads twice. I do a lot of running in the rough. That's why this vehicle is proven. I changed the transmission oil at 120000 km. Imagine that. It is supposed to be changed at 50000 km. I did not know.The vehicle is miles ahead od Nissan and Toyota. If you do get problems , sort them out. You will never regret it. I will close my eyes and buy Honda again. i am looking at the Accord. It's a good vehicle. maybe the dealership is lousy but you can't go wrong. So if you all are doing say 20000 miles you have a vehicle to give about 80000 miles again. I spend my money and service regularly. I use Mobil 1 syntec and change oil atb 10000 km. I use the racing plugs. I have Falkens 205/50 R 15 tyres with 15" rims. Treat your vehivle like your lady and you will get the benefits. What about the RIDE. Excellent. Shocks--Top of the line. This vehicle is used on rough, bumpy roads with potholes etc etc . Take care of it. Azmoh 2003
Honda has a point about the rust if there are rock chips in the paint. I had a 99 Accord and on the way back from a trip some jerk threw something out of their window and I was left with 2 chips in the paint. After about a year I started to see some rust as where the chips were. Had nobody to blame but myself. You see cars of many makes do the same thing. Lesson learned is if you have a rock chip on a metal part of your car get it touched up fast.
I am due for my 20,000 mile maintenance on my civic. typically I take it to the dealership for oil changes/maintenance, cause they give the oil change for free if I do maintenance there. But this time, it is $180 for oil change, rotate tires, inspect, etc.. Which seems like a bit much? Should I take it there, or just go somewhere else? And if I go somewhere else, do I need to specify anything about which kind of oil/filter? What other things should I get done also? Will they know to inspect the cooling system hoses, axle shaft boots and all the other stuff honda says they do at the maintenance? Thanks so much for any help.
Every time I (or a passenger) unbuckle the seat belt and let it loose to rewind into the door pillar, the belt rewinds too fast and the seatbelt buckle either scratches or leaves a small pit on the plastic door-side pillar.
I don't know if this is a defect or if I just have to hold onto the buckle and make the belt rewind slowly.
Does anyone else have this problem on their Civic sedans?
My friend's Lexus RX300 seat belt did the samething, it hits the door or window or whatever is in its way. Just take a easy when you release it. Enjoy your car! bjk.
It's 1992 with 150,000kms. The rad was changed last year. The car is overheating. Canadian Tire said that the problem is related to the head gasket. Does anyone (with a similar problem) know how much it will cost to repair.
I have a 1994, Civic, Sedan, Auto and the Radio/Tape display says "CLEAn" every time we put a Audio Cassette to play. Does this mean just to put a Head Cleaning Cassette or something else. Please let me know. Appreciate your help.
After my 93 went through a rad, 2 headgaskets and 1 cylinder head in less than 2 yrs (had 125kms), I ditched it for a new Protege. Try this trick: the problem hasn't re-appeared since
Yes, the seat belt, when released, rubs between the driver's armrest and the driver's seatback. As a result, the rubber on the armrest has become worn, not to mention that the belt will not retract properly because it binds in this narrow passage due to about a half inch of clearance. This seems to be a problem with the coupe only.
While on this subject, has anyone noticed a whistle sound when driving over about 30mph with the window down. This noise comes from the seat belt anchor on the B-pillar. If you put you finger over the slot (through which the belt slides) you eliminate the whistle. Obviously, no one at Honda drove the car with the windows down in the design stage. A simple redesign of the shape of the anchor would have solved the problem. One of the many slip-ups of this 7th gen. of Civic.
i own a 1994 honda civic DX coupe, and whenever its cold out, it seems to rev up, probably from 1000 to 2000 or 2500 RPMs (im guessing since i dont have tachometer). It goes up and down from 1000 to 2000 RPMs until it is warmed up. it doesnt seem to do it when it is warm out. If anyone else seems to have this problem, or knows anything about it, please let me know, especially if anyone knows how to get rid of it. im extremely annoyed with it.
Sometimes I hear rattling noise from front right side passenger window. Dealer couldn't determine the source of this unusual sound. I think it comes from a spot where interior panels meet (door/dashboard). It has probably to do with thermal expansion/contraction between those parts. Does anyone experience similar?
I have a 1988 Honda Civic. Two weeks back, my car didnt start and the battery light came on ...When i jump started it, it started..But again during driving my battery light came on..So i took it to the walmart and they said its a battery problem and replaced it with a new one..But after a few days again the batter light came on ..sometimes the engine just starts after getting stuck up...[Though i didnt jump start..] All the time the engine light came on during driving...So any idea what could be the problem?? Is it because of the alternator or ECM..Can somebody tell me the correct problem including the cost of the used equipment that needed to be replaced?
check the alternator. see what voltage is coming out of the alternator at idle, should be about 14 volts. this may be a very controversial approach, as it may damage your on board computer, although i doubt civic had a computer in 88, unless it was an Si. I believe honda did not have fuel injection on civics until 91, except for the Si. try diconnecting the battery with the engine running, if she stalls, your alternator is shot. good luck
kukareka: I had that rattling problem on my drivers side. It sounded like it was the drivers door for sure - but guess what it turned out to be?
If you reach under the dash, there's a flat plastic panel that "covers up" all the wires and stuff (I guess that's what it is - can you tell how non-technical i am?). On my car, that panel had detached from the dash on the side nearest the door and would flap up and down as i was driving. the sound was EXACTLY like the sound a rattling door would make.
Check that and see - it drove me CRAZY for a few months.
not sure where to post this, but maybe the info can help someone.
I replaced the stock Firestone tires on my 02 civic ex sedan with a set of Nokian Hakka 1s. They were pricey but I ADORE these tires. Amazing "sticking" and traction, and I have not once gotten stuck. Even after digging the car out of the great 3' snow storm in the mid-atlantic this winter, I was the first car on my street able to actually get DOWN the street without skidding or sliding or losing traction at all. The street had about 4-5 inches of slushy clumpy mess.
The performance on ice has been remarkable as well. This is where the tire really shines.
Anyone curious about getting these snow tires, feel free to contact me, I can't say enough good things about them.
A friend of mine is looking for some cheap dependable transpertation and has been looking into the 1990-91 civics due to $ restrictions. His only need is an automatic, so DX LX sedan or hatch doesnt matter. Are the 90-91 civics a good choice. Are there any known problems to look out for?...thanks for your help
the best I've gotten is 32, possibly 33 mpg hwy. mileage and the worst 22- 23 city mileage
any suggestions as to the problem?
I've tried driving at different speeds as well
its really beginning to disappoint me, as the main reason I went with another civic over an accord or crv was the gas mileage, but if this it the best it can get I might as well upgrade.
my previous civic (an 86) got 30 in the city and I once got 38 on the hwy., but it averaged more like 33-35 both are automatics
Not a problem-just a question. Just got an 03 LX sedan 2 weeks ago. Sticker says "green Tinted glass". There is no special tinting on top of windshield. Don't even remember seeing this as an option. Is the "green tinted glass" the glass that automatically comes with the car? If so how long has Honda done it that way? So far no obvious problems--hope it stays that way.
Hi, I'm interested in buying either a 1994 or 1995 Honda del Sol with the DOHC VTEC engine. What I'm curious is, does the owners manual recommend "Unleaded Premium Only" or "Unleaded Regular" gasoline? I'm assuming the "Si" takes "Unleaded Regular". Thanks. -Tom
I think the 2002-03 Si's are the first Civic Si to only require regular (86 and up) unleaded. Most of previous Si's either prelude or civic required premium (91, i belive, and up) unleaded due to their high compression engines.
I just answered my own question. Looked it up and found: Honda DOHC VTEC take "Premium Fuel Only" Honda "Si" does take "Regular Unleaded" Hmmmm,.... guess it makes sense since the DOHC VTEC has just over a 10:1 compression ratio. -Tom
Hi, I'm in the market for either the 1994 or 1995 Honda del Sol Si or DOHC VTEC model(s) with A/C. I have no idea if any of them have been pestered with any problems (top leaks, whistling noise from wind leaking, etc.). I've heard that the auxiliary lights up front burn out often. How often? Are they a pain to replace the bulbs? Also- has anyone looked into retro-fitting a 1994 with a 1995 inside trunk release lever and latch kit (and having it work)? I like the 1994 Blue del Sol "Si" with A/C. But I'm looking for one with low miles. I can't understand why Honda quit making the del Sol. If anyone's had a convertible "rag top" and had the top sliced open with the radio missing (like,... mine), a "Targa" top is the answer for the best of both worlds! It's like a regular car with it on, and a convertible when it's off. When you put it in the trunk, man! You still have an amazing amount of room left back there! I don't know any 2 seater that's like that. Too bad. If Honda was making them today, I'd place an order right now. Anyway- just curious. Thanks. -Tom
If they worked, every car manufacturer would install them as standard equipment to help achieve EPA fuel economy requirements. The only way they might work is by making your wallet lighter. Don't waste your money on useless gizmo's.
There was a CR-V owner that posted their experience on another internet forum. At first, it appeared to have a positive influence on fuel mileage. Then someone else suggested the person remove it and check the numbers again. They did, and the numbers were the same with it and without it. Save your money for regular maintenance.
I own a 1996 Honda Civic with manual windows. My driver side window was working fine and one fine day I rolled it down and it won't roll back up. Spoke to a mechanic and he wants $70 just to check for the problem. He seems to think the problem is with the track that will cost about $150 to replace. Anybody had any experience like this?
I had the mechanism go out in my 86 hatch around a year and a half ago.
And now my power window seems to have gone out in my 2000 sedan.
Without any more specifics and the fact their is 2 generations in between my 86 and your 96, I cant be sure, but with my hatch I first started having problems with it feeling like it was locking up when rolling it up and down, until it got so bad it wouldn't work. turns out the gears became stripped.
If you are mechanically inclined , PLUS willing to remove the panels off of the inside of your door, I suggest trying a junk yard to find replacement parts, and do it yourself, however even after replacing my crank mechanism in my 86 it never worked quite the way it used to, but it does work, be EXTREMELY CAREFUL with the glass I let mine slip because I didn't have anyone helping me and am very lucky it didn't shatter.
can you offer any more information on the problem? or did it just go out suddenly?
now I have a question on my window on my current civic lol
I've had the car for about 2 months now (2000 lx sedan) I noticed the drivers window seemed a bit slow when compared to the other windows but didn't have any problems until about 2 weeks ago.
it started squeaking going up and down.
well Friday it ended up just stopping I fiddled wit hit a bit. and got it back up. Then I tried the old wd-40 spray it approach but it did nothing only this time it just died wouldn't move either way. I got back to work from lunch and got our and noticed it had ran up over the sealing gasket for the window , so I lowered it back down and back up but it still didn't work right. so I've not opened it since.
I had the dealer check on the issues I've mentioned in previous post (that's a whole separate post in it self)
but I was told possibly the regulator? and $360, so im a bit irritated I haven't even broke 50 k and the power window has gone out
I've replaced the mechanism on a hand crank before does anyone know how hard it is to do on power windows? or would I be better off letting the dealer do it?
I was waxing my mom's 2002 Silver EX yesterday and I have one thing to say. That is the crappiest factory paint job I have EVER seen. I am a HUGE Honda fan (I pushed her to purchase the Civic.) so it really comes as quite a shock to me.
The panels are all different shades of silver. The door handles, bumpers and metal body parts are all slightly different. The metal is blotchy and goes from dark almost black to light and looks like it was sprayed by me in the garage with a can of Krylon.
I have owned a 86 CRX DX, 90 CRX Si, 00 DX Hatch, and now a 03 CR-V so I know this isn't norm for Honda.
Anyone else have this problem? I'm going to take pictures and try to get Honda to fix it. I can't believe they let this car out of the factory.
I was on a dealer lot in late November early December last year checking out the accord (I had been waiting on the element, which I didn't end up liking and the accord was one of my alternates)
I had asked to sit in one since they didn't have one on the show room, and the sales lady went to get a key for one. and I was walking around looking at different trims and colors when I noticed what I thought was a rather large dusty splotch on the rear most panel between the rear passenger door and the back of the cars trunk I walked over and brushed my hand across the spot thinking it would wipe off
it was a 15-18 inch diameter (it wasn't completely symmetrical) patch of under spray on get this an EXL V6 LEATHER NAV Accord
The top of the line model with a blatant spot of under spray on it.
When I dim the dash lights on a 03 civic ex by rotating the dial control in both day & night situations, the setting is not remembered & has to be repeated each time I enter the car. They go to max bright in both headlights on or off. Has anyone had this problem?
Comments
Fade and glazing are 2 different problems.
4th Paragragh. I am not sure what month it was printed but here it is online. "...the brakes did fade badly..." I know that they were racing the car but still they used the word 'badly'.
Fade: Excessive heat to the rotors which affects the pads performance to slow the car down.
Glazed Rotors: High heat on the rotors and pads that cause the surface of the rotor to glaze over. (Honda Tech explained this one to me)
Not exactly the same thing but related. Both instants rotors get very hot there by affecting performance.
And before everyone suggests that I check to make sure the switch near the maplights up front is set to the correct setting - I have tried it a hundred times, in each position.
The bulb is not burnt out, since the lights come on when i use the keyless entry to enter and exit the car.
am i hallucinating, or should those interior lights come on when you open a door? Yes, I realize that they come on and then "fade" when you take the key out of the ignition... but in this situation after the "fade" happens, if i am still sitting in the car and I open a door to exit, it stays completely dark inside.
Back in this or another thread, there's a link where you can buy Honda accessories much cheaper than you get them at a dealer.
The mats come with some anchor pins to keep the driver's side mat from creeping forward and interfering with the peddles. A dealer in a hurry may not install those pins, so check to see if they are there or make sure you get the pins when you get the mats. Putting the pins in yourself is no biggie.
I ordered the mats (along with wheel locks & splash guards) from H and A Accessories. Roughly a 30-40% savings over what the dealer wanted.
http://www.petitiononline.com/03Accord/petition.html
If you do get problems , sort them out. You will never regret it.
I will close my eyes and buy Honda again. i am looking at the Accord. It's a good vehicle. maybe the dealership is lousy but you can't go wrong.
So if you all are doing say 20000 miles you have a vehicle to give about 80000 miles again.
I spend my money and service regularly.
I use Mobil 1 syntec and change oil atb 10000 km.
I use the racing plugs.
I have Falkens 205/50 R 15 tyres with 15" rims.
Treat your vehivle like your lady and you will get the benefits.
What about the RIDE. Excellent.
Shocks--Top of the line.
This vehicle is used on rough, bumpy roads with potholes etc etc .
Take care of it.
Azmoh 2003
When you go to the dealer, you should be talking with the body shop manager. Some, (not all)service people are just talking heads.
For comparison check out the showroom model.
Don't be afraid to go elsewhere. You didn't buy a Yugo, so service you be as good as the vehicle.
Every time I (or a passenger) unbuckle the seat belt and let it loose to rewind into the door pillar, the belt rewinds too fast and the seatbelt buckle either scratches or leaves a small pit on the plastic door-side pillar.
I don't know if this is a defect or if I just have to hold onto the buckle and make the belt rewind slowly.
Does anyone else have this problem on their Civic sedans?
Other than that, I am very pleased with the car.
My friend's Lexus RX300 seat belt did the samething, it hits the door or window or whatever is in its way. Just take a easy when you release it.
Enjoy your car!
bjk.
Dinu
While on this subject, has anyone noticed a whistle sound when driving over about 30mph with the window down. This noise comes from the seat belt anchor on the B-pillar. If you put you finger over the slot (through which the belt slides) you eliminate the whistle. Obviously, no one at Honda drove the car with the windows down in the design stage. A simple redesign of the shape of the anchor would have solved the problem. One of the many slip-ups of this 7th gen. of Civic.
Does anyone experience similar?
I have a 1988 Honda Civic. Two weeks back, my car didnt start and the battery light came on ...When i jump started it, it started..But again during driving my battery light came on..So i took it to the walmart and they said its a battery problem and replaced it with a new one..But after a few days again the batter light came on ..sometimes the engine just starts after getting stuck up...[Though i didnt jump start..] All the time the engine light came on during driving...So any idea what could be the problem?? Is it because of the alternator or ECM..Can somebody tell me the correct problem including the cost of the used equipment that needed to be replaced?
regards and thanks
Praveen
good luck
If you reach under the dash, there's a flat plastic panel that "covers up" all the wires and stuff (I guess that's what it is - can you tell how non-technical i am?). On my car, that panel had detached from the dash on the side nearest the door and would flap up and down as i was driving. the sound was EXACTLY like the sound a rattling door would make.
Check that and see - it drove me CRAZY for a few months.
I replaced the stock Firestone tires on my 02 civic ex sedan with a set of Nokian Hakka 1s. They were pricey but I ADORE these tires. Amazing "sticking" and traction, and I have not once gotten stuck. Even after digging the car out of the great 3' snow storm in the mid-atlantic this winter, I was the first car on my street able to actually get DOWN the street without skidding or sliding or losing traction at all. The street had about 4-5 inches of slushy clumpy mess.
The performance on ice has been remarkable as well. This is where the tire really shines.
Anyone curious about getting these snow tires, feel free to contact me, I can't say enough good things about them.
(Lx sedan)
the best I've gotten is 32, possibly 33 mpg hwy. mileage
and the worst 22- 23 city mileage
any suggestions as to the problem?
I've tried driving at different speeds as well
its really beginning to disappoint me, as the main reason I went with another civic over an accord or crv was the gas mileage, but if this it the best it can get I might as well upgrade.
my previous civic (an 86) got 30 in the city and I once got 38 on the hwy., but it averaged more like 33-35 both are automatics
I'm interested in buying either a 1994 or 1995 Honda del Sol with the DOHC VTEC engine. What I'm curious is, does the owners manual recommend "Unleaded Premium Only" or "Unleaded Regular" gasoline?
I'm assuming the "Si" takes "Unleaded Regular".
Thanks.
-Tom
Honda DOHC VTEC take "Premium Fuel Only"
Honda "Si" does take "Regular Unleaded"
Hmmmm,.... guess it makes sense since the DOHC VTEC has just over a 10:1 compression ratio.
-Tom
I'm in the market for either the 1994 or 1995 Honda del Sol Si or DOHC VTEC model(s) with A/C.
I have no idea if any of them have been pestered with any problems (top leaks, whistling noise from wind leaking, etc.). I've heard that the auxiliary lights up front burn out often. How often? Are they a pain to replace the bulbs? Also- has anyone looked into retro-fitting a 1994 with a 1995 inside trunk release lever and latch kit (and having it work)?
I like the 1994 Blue del Sol "Si" with A/C. But I'm looking for one with low miles.
I can't understand why Honda quit making the del Sol. If anyone's had a convertible "rag top" and had the top sliced open with the radio missing (like,... mine), a "Targa" top is the answer for the best of both worlds! It's like a regular car with it on, and a convertible when it's off. When you put it in the trunk, man! You still have an amazing amount of room left back there! I don't know any 2 seater that's like that. Too bad. If Honda was making them today, I'd place an order right now.
Anyway- just curious.
Thanks.
-Tom
JM2C
I remember once it was "Cow Magnets" duct tape these to your fuel lines and get another five miles per gallon.
Some people swore by them!
My driver side window was working fine and one fine day I rolled it down and it won't roll back up. Spoke to a mechanic and he wants $70 just to check for the problem. He seems to think the problem is with the track that will cost about $150 to replace.
Anybody had any experience like this?
I had the mechanism go out in my 86 hatch around a year and a half ago.
And now my power window seems to have gone out in my 2000 sedan.
Without any more specifics and the fact their is
2 generations in between my 86 and your 96, I cant be sure, but with my hatch I first started having problems with it feeling like it was locking up when rolling it up and down, until it got so bad it wouldn't work. turns out the gears became stripped.
If you are mechanically inclined , PLUS willing to remove the panels off of the inside of your door, I suggest trying a junk yard to find replacement parts, and do it yourself, however even after replacing my crank mechanism in my 86 it never worked quite the way it used to, but it does work, be EXTREMELY CAREFUL with the glass I let mine slip because I didn't have anyone helping me and am very lucky it didn't shatter.
can you offer any more information on the problem? or did it just go out suddenly?
now I have a question on my window on my current civic lol
I've had the car for about 2 months now (2000 lx sedan)
I noticed the drivers window seemed a bit slow when compared to the other windows but didn't have any problems until about 2 weeks ago.
it started squeaking going up and down.
well Friday it ended up just stopping I fiddled wit hit a bit. and got it back up.
Then I tried the old wd-40 spray it approach
only this time it just died wouldn't move either way. I got back to work from lunch and got our and noticed it had ran up over the sealing gasket for the window , so I lowered it back down and back up but it still didn't work right. so I've not opened it since.
I had the dealer check on the issues I've mentioned in previous post (that's a whole separate post in it self)
but I was told possibly the regulator? and $360, so im a bit irritated I haven't even broke 50 k and the power window has gone out
I've replaced the mechanism on a hand crank before does anyone know how hard it is to do on power windows? or would I be better off letting the dealer do it?
The panels are all different shades of silver. The door handles, bumpers and metal body parts are all slightly different. The metal is blotchy and goes from dark almost black to light and looks like it was sprayed by me in the garage with a can of Krylon.
I have owned a 86 CRX DX, 90 CRX Si, 00 DX Hatch, and now a 03 CR-V so I know this isn't norm for Honda.
Anyone else have this problem? I'm going to take pictures and try to get Honda to fix it. I can't believe they let this car out of the factory.
checking out the accord (I had been waiting on the element, which I didn't end up liking and the accord was one of my alternates)
I had asked to sit in one since they didn't have one on the show room, and the sales lady went to get a key for one. and I was walking around looking at different trims and colors when I noticed what I thought was a rather large dusty splotch on the rear most panel between the rear passenger door and the back of the cars trunk
I walked over and brushed my hand across the spot
thinking it would wipe off
it was a 15-18 inch diameter (it wasn't completely symmetrical) patch of under spray
on get this
an EXL V6 LEATHER NAV Accord
The top of the line model with a blatant spot of under spray on it.