Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

ncampbell2002

I have a question for you. I was wondering what Michelin tires you had in replacement for the Firestone tires and how much you paid for them if I may ask. I have a 17 inch aftermarket wheel and tire package on my car now,(which may I say improves the vehicles handling greatly) but I am putting the stock wheels on the car for the cold Michigan winter coming up so the aftermarket set won't corrode from all the road salt. Also the tires on the aftermarket wheels are more for rain and dry pavement and not necessarily snow. I was just wondering if you find the Michelins to be better than the Firestones. I drove the car for the first 1000 miles with the stock 15 inch wheels and the Firestones and was not impressed with the cars handling. It just seemed that normal cornering put the tires to their limits all the time. I was kinda dissappointed when I was shopping for my new car that they stopped putting the Michelins on the Civics. I'm just curious of your thoughts since you said you had the dealer swap out the tires for you and anyone else's opinion/experience is greatly appreciated.
Nick

gregoryc1

With regards to the 2000 leased Civic, (that is going to be turned back to the lease company on Monday), the original tires were Firestone. We had the dealer remove the Firestone Tires, and in exchange, add a tape deck to the sound system. We then purchased four Michelin All Season Tires from the dealer. We had them mounted and balanced by the dealer. The Honda dealer also handles a line of tires for Hondas, so I know the price was competitive with regular tire dealers.(I looked for the paper work, but I no longer have it handy, as it was a separate bill for this service). The new 2004 Honda Civic is not a lease, it is a purchase. I do not know at this point in time, the model of Michelin tires that are going to be on the vehicle, as we are picking up the Civic on Wed..----I would assume that it would be an original equipment type tire. ( I do not have a problem with that tire choice). The vehicle is a 2004 EX. The total price of the vehicle was $20,277.50, (less $100.00 cash deposit). This price included the following: the addition of a cassette player to the existing sound system, mud guards front and rear, the switching of the Bridgestone tires to Michelin, a 7 year zero deductible, 100,000 mile extended warranty, N.J. sales tax, and registration / title / documentary fees. The unit price of the vehicle was: $17,930.00. In addition, I believe in putting "life insurance" on a vehicle loan for both my wife and I. For a few extra dollars per month, should something happen to one of us, the other person will own all the vehicles in our stable of vehicles free and clear. Since this is my wife's car, I did not want her riding around on a Firestone / Bridgestone product. Enough of things can happen on the road, without adding a tire issue to the equation. ---- The Michelin tires on the 2000 Civic performed very well. I will let you know about the performance of the Michelins on the new 2004 Civic.
I hope this information is helpful to you. -----Greg

snarks

A side opinion, why not put winter tires on your Civic if its for winter. The Michilien Artic Alpin are quiet and excellent in the snow and top rated. Another good choice are Nokian winter tires. good luck

gbriank

I have read some of the posts here and had a few questions:

1. By using this oil, does it effect the vehicle passing emissions control?

2. Since this oil was developed for engines that are being revved high constantly (race track), will it cause deposits in the cylendar heads?

3. Will using a product not recommended by the manufacturer void the Honda Bumper-to-Bumper/Extended warranty?

gregoryc1

The amount of oil in the fuel is very small. (4 ounces to every 10 gallons). Picture pouring 4 ounces of orange juice into 10 gallons of water. You would not even see the orange juice in the water. Marvel oil will not cause deposits to be formed. It will help to remove the upper cylinder deposits. It will not effect the emissions of the engine. It is safe for the O2 sensor and the Cat Converter. It will not void the warranty. It is designed to lubricate the valves, upper cylinder walls and piston rings. This will keep everything moving freely. Honda dealer mechanics recommend using a fuel injector cleaner every 15,000 miles. Next time you are in an auto store or K Mart read the container of Marvel Oil. ----Just my opinion. ----Greg

naveedkhan

Hi,

I have recently purchased Honda Civic Ex 2004. It only has 200 mi on it. Couple of days ago, i accidentally left one of the internal light turned on for around 13-14 hours. Next day i tried to start it but it would not. in fact i was not even able to use key-less entry and had to use the key. My neighbour helped me jump start and i took it to a nearby pepboys for charging. I also asked them to check the conditon of battery (for which they also charged $$, so it was a professional check). They charged the battery but told me that battery was pretty weak and i should go to the dealer and have it replaced because obviously i still have warranty. I have 2 questions:

1.Is it possible that battery really became so dead that it needs to be replaced ? it was in a brand new car !!!
2. Obviously it was my fault that battery drained. would the warranty still be valid ?

thanks
nk

terryt123

Unfortunately I don’t know a lot about cars so I am asking some advise from any of you that do. A few weeks ago I noticed a problem with my 2002 EX Honda Civic. I took it into the dealer and they told me that my automatic transmission was going out. I only have 34000 miles on the car and was surprised at the problem. This is my first Honda and I was always told they are a pretty reliable car. Anyway, the dealer put another transmission in my car and I thought everything was OK. However after parking it overnight in my garage I noticed a red oily liquid on the floor. I took it back to the dealer and they looked at it. They said that something or other wasn’t “torked” or tightened correctly and they would fix it. In about a half hour I had my car back. Unfortunately, I have noticed a drop or two of this same red liquid on my garage floor. I’m unsure what the problem is but will probably take it back to the dealer. Before I do I was wondering if anyone else has had similar problems? Could this be a more serious problem than just tightening something? Any suggestions.

snarks

Transmission fluid is red. I would watch it and make sure to take it in before the expire of 36,000 miles warranty. If they check it make sure you keep your current documentation or have the documentation that it was checked. Once they document the problem they have to continue warrantying it.

Note all cars brands have problems whether Kia or Lexus. Honda's are just known to be better than average but of course things go wrong.

ncampbell2002

Batteries are mass produced just like most anything else today including cars. You are always going to have a few "lemons" when you put something into mass production because quality control goes down to move more product. If they say it is weak I would take it back to the dealer and see if they will give you a new one especially if you live in a colder climate where you need all the cold cranking amps you can get in the winter. By the way, when you go into the dealer you don't have to give them the story that you left the interior light on and drained the battery once yourself.. . Good luck

Nick

ncampbell2002

Thanks for the feedback from both Greg and Snarks. I think I may actually go with a winter tire since I will only be using the factory wheels for winter driving. It makes the most sense to me. I don't know why I didn't think of that myself!

kallymar22

I have a 94 Civic Ex just shy of 90K with a new timing belt and water pump. Routine maintenance regularly since bought brand new. Never a bit of trouble before. Now, temp gauge going up and down, losing antifreeze, no radiator leaks that I can see. Dealer says its the head gasket and cylinder head. I'm not a mechanic, can anyone give me info into this? Didn't drive her hot. Took into dealer as soon as gauge began moving up the temp ladder.

The mechanic that did the diagnostic said she's worth saving. Mechanic and dealer say the cylinder head needs to go to the machine shop for pressure testing and honing. They're ballparking the job at $1,500. They also mentioned honing the valves "later on." Any thoughts anyone?

The dealer also says the radiator needs to be watched since its beginning to show signs of antifreeze leakage around the top. Mechanic says no big deal.

Has anyone had experience with this before?
Should I put the bucks into her?, Will she keep going (and for how long)? or should I sell her for parts and move on?
Thanks.

bd21

I'm a mechanic and everything the dealer is telling you sounds on the level. You didn't do anything wrong, sometimes a head gasket develops a pinhole leak. Yes your car is absolutely worth saving! Take your car to a good independent shop to verify the condition and get the repair done. You should be able to have everything fixed for under a grand. Honda will just charge you twice as much for the same work. The same exact thing happened to a Toyota I owed with about your same mileage on it. Good luck.

seppw

Nearly 6 months after the fact, but AutoZone is probably your best bet for a new wide band. Good luck finding one a salvage yard. It is a Bosch but after you open it it is in fact an NTK L1H1, go figure? Auto Zone lists the Bosch (part # 13246) at $168 (NAPA part number OS791 is allegedly the NTK L2H2, a gen2 sensor). Other sources lists at $180 up to $500 (+/-) for the same sensor. You might be lucky and find one on EBay, just make sure it is the correct part.

Changing them is simple enough, in fact AutoZone has a loaner sensor socket to aid in replacement. Warm up the engine and shut it off, disconnect the connector, remove old senor, install new one (be careful not to touch or damage lower shield or get any contaminants on it, for example the anti-size compound on the threads), tighten, but don't strip the threads, remove your back-up fuse from the eng compartment fuse block for a few minutes (you'll lose clock settings and radio presets/programming), reinstall the fuse and your done. This should do it providing of course the diagnostics didn't reveal a short on the harness between the ECU and sensor.

rivertown

Yup, sounds like a bad battery. I don't look for the battery in a new car to last more than 3 years, though I was pleasantly surprised when the battery in my last Honda was still good as gold after nearly 4 years.
A battery in good shape will stand a draining and then charge right back up (says he who has left the lights on more than once).

peters99

Terry:
I too have an 02 Civic EX auto and have noticed that I have a vibration in the tranny while slowing down in traffic, like the grade logic doesn't work properly. It also doesn't shift as smooth as it did when it was new. Shifts seem hard. I have 15,500 miles. Is that what you were experiencing? If not, what were your symptoms? What made Honda replace your tranny? Thanks

desi501

The fact that you never got it hot sounds very suspicous to me. I'm a tech in So Fl and I see a lot of blown head gaskets and cracked heads. They almost always are caused by overheating. Are the cooling fans working? Head gasket problems generally consume some coolant also. I think it's definately time for a second opinion. Things might be slow at that particular dealer.

dave210

I too have noticed some shuddering and hesitation at times when I start to accelerate from a stop but then have to stop quickly in stop and go traffic.

It's like the transmission gets mad that it has to upshift but then downshift quickly thereafter.

I have 5 months left on the warranty so I'm going to see what the dealer says. Other than the low speed shuddering, everything else is fine. We'll see.

kallymar22

Desi501, everyone;

When I first brought the car in the rep checked the cooling fan and it wasn't turning on. He checked the fuse box, all seemed fine, then he moved two fuses around and the cooling fan came on. The temp gauge was still moving up and down. The gauge never got all the way up to "H", just below it.

What does this mean? What other problem/s could this be?

I'm planning a long trip, any opinions about driving her on an approx 1000 mile round trip, if I decide to fix her?

Anything else I should be looking out for?
Thanks.

terryt123

This is in answer to questions about what symptons I was experiencing before my transmisson had to be replaced. I noticed that the engine was speeding up a little before it shifted into the next higher gear. It seemed to sruggle a little. I did not notice a vibration. When I took it to the dealer for my 30000 mile checkup I mentioned it. They didn't think it was a big problem at the time but when they checked it they told me the problem was a bad transmission and it would have to be replaced. By the way, they also told me that Honda does not replace transmission with new transmission, even though the car is under warrenty, but rather with reconditioned ones. That doesn't seem fair but at least they replaced it. They told me that my "new" transmission would have an additional 36000 mile warrent on it.

theracoon

By the way, they also told me that Honda does not replace transmission with new transmission, even though the car is under warrenty, but rather with reconditioned ones. That doesn't seem fair but at least they replaced it. They told me that my "new" transmission would have an additional 36000 mile warrent on it.

This is true for most work during under a warranty, not just in the auto industry. The warranty service company, whether it's the manufacturer or a 3rd party, usually has the right to use refurbished, reconditioned, or rebuilt parts or to replace the warranty'd item with a similar product. Read the fine print!

Is there a difference between a new transmission and a rebuilt one? Maybe. But you did get a warranty on the "new" transmission good for an additional 36,000 miles from the time it was installed. Smile and drive on down the road.

JM2C

ncampbell2002

This doesn't relate directly to Honda but more cars in general. I was just curious if anyone has heard of this and I thought I would share it with you all since this is one of the main discussion sessions I communicate in.

My sister went outside this morning to start her 1999 Ford zx2 sport to defrost the windows due to the 20 degree temperatures we experienced here in Michigan. She got out of the car, closed the door and CRASH!!!! The rear window completely shattered. I've never heard of such a crazy thing before even with the cold temperatures. I don't know if it was a manufature defect of if something else happened along the way, I'm just glad no one was hurt. I couldn't believe that the shock of a door could cause such damage. I was just curious if anyone has ever heard of this happening or if it happened to them, and I think from now on I will be conducting periodic inspections on the glass of my Civic to make sure everything is Ok. I think it would be a good idea for others to follow suit. I was just passing this along to say it can happen if you weren't aware of it because I have never seen anything more bizzare happening to a vehicle before and I just thought people should be aware of it because I'm sure it's rare but now I know even the unthinkable can happen.

Have a great day.

Nick

chalupny

I agree that everyone has an opinion. If you like the upper cylinder lubrication - go for it. My point was relative to premium (88, 90, 92 octane) fuel vs. regular (86 octane) fuel. You made the following statement in a previous post:

 "My concern is not the knocks and / or pings that I can hear, but rather the ones that I cannot hear. With a loaded vehicle under hard acceleration, or climbing a long hill, the engine is under "stress", and as such, it needs all the octane that it can get."

A higher octane fuel will not reduce the stress on your engine. All a higher octane rating will do is increase the combustion temperature of the fuel/air mixture. Unless you are experiencing premature ignition, which typically produces a pinging or knocking sound under acceleration, you don't really need premuim fuel. I doubt that using premium fuel will do any damage - but it is typically unnecessary and adds cost. Premium fuel, however, will not reduce the stress on your engine.

vidtech

i believe the increased expansion and contraction of the aluminum cylinder heads is the main cause for all these head gasket failures.overheat the engine,the head gasket is usually cooked.i remember overheating old v8's with all that cast iron and never had a head gasket go bad.many times modern head gaskets blow w/o any overheating.

dedrunr

It's November 10 2003 and I finally found the time to tackle the job. At first sight, how much of a problem can four bolts and two electrical connections cause? Plenty. The two top 10mm bolts were easy, but the side bolts are hidden (also 10mm) and require partial disassembly of the splash shield in order to move it out of the way while pulling out the assembly after bolt removal.

You can't see the inboard bolt, so I had to look at the new assembly and visualize its position behind the splash shield. My arms are small enough so that I could get my hand through one of the slots in the shield and access the bolt with a 1/4" ratchet and socket.

For the outboard bolt, I removed a philips head sheet metal screw that holds the right rear of the splash shield and was able to pull it away from the fender to access the bolt. I used a 10mm closed end wrench to loosen the bolt and fully removed it with a 10mm nut driver.

With all four bolts removed, I then had to remove one philips sheet metal screw from under the splash shield about 12-14 inches directly below where the inboard bolt was. Removal of the rear splash shield screw and this one was enough to loosen the lower part of the splash shield, but the top also had to be partially dismantled. This is easy since all you do is pop off some plastic retainers. The entire right side of the shield could now be pulled out and bent in order to manipulate the headlamp assembly out of the cavity.

It's a tight squeeze in there, so you have to be very careful in both removing the old housing and putting in the new one. I partially pulled it out and first took off the blinker electrical connector by pushing in and twisting. Now I could pull out the housing a little bit so I could get to the headlamp connector. This comes off by gently rocking it and simultaneously pulling it away from the housing.

I fully removed the housing by bending away the splash shield and first pulling out the inboard end of the housing, then carefully pulling the rest of it out of the fender area. Not an easy job, but I think any one of us can do it by setting aside a couple of hours and exercising patience.

Once the housing was on my garage floor, I pulled the headlamp bulb out of the old housing by removing the rubber boot and unsnapping the clip that holds the bulb. Easy enough to do with your fingers. No need to remove any blinker bulb since it is attached to the connector on the car. From here on, all reassembly was in reverse order. Just make sure you temporarily push in the splash shield before tightening the housing bolts so that you can see where it will be flush with the fender, splash shield, and the hood.

Thanks for all the hints, folks. This truly was a learning experience.

Big Al

smithie1

I found your post very interesting because I recently experienced the exact same problem with my 2003 Civic EX, although the source of the battery drain was unclear. My dealer checked the electrical system and determined that the battery was low. They replaced the battery at no charge. By the way, the tow truck operator who jumpstarted the car told me he has seen other Civics with the same problem.

bigfur

keep in mind Big Al...thats an EASY headlight assembly to get out.

ncampbell2002

Glad to see you were successful in the task. You're right anyone can do it...if you have the patience!! Glad things worked out for you.

Nick

0patience

First thing to check would be to have a pressure test done on the cooling system and the radiator cap.
If the cap is bad, the system can over heat and push coolant passed the cap and out the overflow.
I know......
The overflow is supposed to keep the coolant, but I have seen where the overflow tank has overflowed, then when the engine cooled, the level dropped to normal.
Something to think about.

armtdm

I have two older engines where I am fairly certain I have a seeping head gasket. In cold weather the metal and gasket contract and tiny cracks in the gasket appear and permit coolant to seep into the combustion chambers and upon start up burn the coolant. the overflow tank slowly goes down. Fine in the summer, uses coolant in the winter. Has done this for a few years now and not worth repairing. Solution, keep adding coolant, more frequent oil changes and wait till she dies. Not worth much and runs fine and $1,000 ++ to replace a head gasket is not worth it in my situation. Now, if the coolant were to drop significantly in a few days, then major decision time.

swschrad

it's when the gasket finally blows between the combustion and the coolant galleys and oil galleys. at that point, you thin the oil down with coolant and kill the engine just about as well as if you dumped a handful of sandblast grit down the filler tube and cleared it with a cup of nice, hot battery acid.

BTW, with the crimped end bells on your modern radiator, don't assume it's not the radiator.

pressure test the pig today and see what you got. if this is a situation where you're driving an old car because you need the money elsewhere, it might be time to put in some stop-leak. worst it will do is roach the engine by plugging the galleys, and, hey! -- isn't that where a gasket fail would go?

vincent02

Hello everyone,

I have a 1998 Civic EX Couple. I went to service center to have a wheel alignment for my EX Couple. After the service was done, I realized that the reception put Civic CX (instead of EX) on the work order. I am thinking whether the technican use the CX alignment (assume the information was different) information to do the alignment on my EX.
Does anyone know whether EX and CX have the same alignment information or not? If they were not the same, how much damage would it have? The reception at there said it should be the same. I am not sure. Is there any of you know the answer about this?
Thank you very much!!

Regards,

Vince

ncampbell2002

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I do believe the ride height can affect the alignment. I'm pretty sure the EX's wheels are larger than the CX's. Therefore the alignment may be slightly off. I would take it back to that place and have them double check it. It might be ok, but it might be more noticable in the long run when you get that crazy tire wear and you're suspension parts(control arms, tie rods etc.) don't last as long. No it will not cause any immediate damage whatsoever. Just to be on the safe side, I would go back at your next convenience and have them redo it this time for an EX if they used CX specs and if those differ, I really don't know to be exact. It shouldn't cost you anything seeing it was their error. Hopefully this is helpful, but someone correct me if you know i'm wrong.

gregoryc1

By "stress" I was refering to the potential of the fuel to "knock", not the mechanical stress of component engine parts!------ The purpose of a "top cylinder lubricant" is to prevent excessive wear of the various contact surfaces at the upper end of the cylinder. These include the cylinder walls, rings, pistons, valves guides, and valve faces & stems. If you reduce friction, you also reduce operating temperature. In addition, with a lubricant in the fuel, you also supply lubrication to fuel system components. An upper cylinder lubricant will also control the formation of carbon in this area. QUESTION:----Have you ever tried premium fuel and an upper cylinder lubricant?---------Greg

Karen_S

...just want to give everyone a heads up about some changes taking place in an effort to organize and make it easier for members to find the most appropriate discussion for their question/comment.

This discussion will soon be combined with the "Honda Civic Owners: Problems & Solutions", which resides in the Honda Civic Owners Club. However, the combined topics will also appear here in M&R. If you are subscribed to this discussion, you will need to re-subscribe when the change takes place.

If you have any questions/concerns, please address them to me in email, karen@edmunds.com.

Karen_S

kallymar22

You mentioned taking a bulletin to the dealer about the gas gauge. Where did you find it?
How did you find it? What does it say? Did the dealer fix it pro bono?

There's some kind of bulletin out by the NHTSA for civics on head gaskets dated 11/97. Honda doesn't admit it exists. Can't access it. Any suggestions?

My solution for my '94 accord (hasn't happened on my civic) is to clock the miles, and zero her out at each fillup. Has been working for about three years. Dealers say no problem.

Appreciate the info.

mneiner1

I have an LX automatic with 120,000 miles and notice the shift cycle is taking longer from 1st to 2nd. It shifts at the correct point but it takes longer to complete the cycle. Also, it's intermittent and occurs more frequently under a light load. Under heavier excelleration it's quick and smooth between all gears.

ncampbell2002

Has the problem been like this or is this something that has just started happening? Is it happening when the engine is warm, cold, or both? When was the last time you changed the ATF or checked the level in it? You may want to take it in a see what a dealer says before it becomes a further issue or if it's even a big problem at all. It may be just something out of adjustment too. I know its not a Honda, but my Dad has a 2002 Trailblazer and the transmission one day wouldn't go into drive with about 6000 miles on it. We could make it engage in reverse but it wouldn't engage in drive when selected. We had it towed to the dealer and they just did something with the computer and it hasn't been a problem since (40,000 miles later). Another thing is it could be something with the grade-logic feature Honda puts in their transmissions, but I don't know if the 1998 had that in them. Good luck..Nick

mneiner1

Thanks for the response Nick.

I had the fluid changed at 80k and again at 115k.

The manual says Dexron III or Honda ATF will work but recommends Honda. I'm sure the mechanic I used installed Dexron. I changed it at 115k and installed Honda ATF.

I didn't notice the problem until several months ago and I automatically changed the fluid myself. The fluid looked good when I drained it.

The shifting makes no difference if it's hot or cold. Also, I made a mistake, the problem is from 2nd to 3rd not 1st to 2nd. The only difference is shifting under a light or heavy throttle. It never drags out the shift under a heavy throttle when the vacuum is low. That's why I'm wondering if it's something related to the computer getting incorrect readings from sensors.

My only concern is it will get worse and then I'll be stuck. Other than that I would be happy to just drive it for another year or two and then trade it in.

ncampbell2002

The transmission fluid used may not have affected it, or could it have? My friend had a 1995 Civic DX coupe with a 5 speed manual transmission. We changed the fluid with Mobil 1 10w 40 motor oil (or something like that I can't remember the exact viscocity and weight) as this is a common fluid for a manual transmission. After we made the change a couple of days later he started complaining of shifting a lot more stiff than it used to be. We went to the Honda dealer and did not know they offered a special fluid just for their manual tranmssions. We drained out the Mobil 1 and put in the HMTF. The shifting improved 100%. We only let the motor oil run through there for about 150 miles or so. I would still say there might just be a computer issue or speed sensor that is having problems communicating between the tranny and the computer that tells the tranmission when to shift. I think the reason it shifts smooth under full throttle is because you are basically red lining the engine which I believe some kind of limiter in the computer will force the car to shift...but I'm not sure how true that statement is. It may not be as bad as you think, but if I were in your shoes, I would have it looked at A.S.A.P. because if it is a serious problem developing you aren't helping it any by contiuning to drive it without a fix. The sooner you have it looked at the less money it might cost you in the long run IMO. Let me know what happens..Nick

mneiner1

Thanks Nick, I'll let you know what I find out.

justin

i asked this in another board too, but i don't see an ACTIVE Civic Hatchback board, so thought i would ask here.

looking at used 96-97 Civic Hatchbacks. outside of timing belt/mileage issues, what should i look out for when considering one of these cars?

thanks!

auburn63

Only real issues other than basic things to always check for such as fluid conditions and radiator condition, would be to make sure that it doesnt overheat as the head gaskets sometimes are issues with them. As long as it doesnt overheat on a good test drive then letting it sit and idle for 5 min or so you should be good. Also if not already done the 96 and 97 Hondas have an emissions extension on them which is nice up to 14 years or 100k. Good luck

snarks

Once you hown in on a particular car have pay a trusted mechanic the $50-$100 to check the car over. Worth every penny in the aggravation they typically can help you avoid. Good luck

ghenderson1

My '92 Civic quit suddenly. I first thought the timing belt went. Compression is a little over 150 lbs. Poured a little gas into intake aircleaner hose., and tried to start but erratically..It's a 91 cid engine..any thoughts about the fuel injection circuit?...Fuel looks clean, dis-conected the fuel line and delivery looks ok....I thought maybe this is somewhat of a common problem with a relativly simple remedy

auburn63

Need to check for the basics such as do you have spark, pull a plug wire and insert an old plug or something and see if it sparks, do you have good fuel pressure/flow, finally static timing check if you know how but chances are that you dont have fuel or spark and causes would be bad coil or igniter, or bad fuel main relay or tw sensor..See if you have spark first..good luck

leonfan

I own a Civic EX '02 model. Whenever I decelerate I hear a clicking noise around the front wheels. Sometimes there is a loud clicking sound, but mostly it has been faint. This is a pretty new car. The Honda service center has said that the problem may be because of the spurs on the axles. However, the problem still pursists. The noise has begun to trouble me. Any advise on where and why this problem occurs would be greatly appreciated. Thank You.

vptabor

Hey all. My Civic is fairly new and has less than 7000 miles on it. My front tires (original equipment) spin like crazy when I accelerate from a stop in wet conditions. I swear I even skidded on dry pavement while braking one time. I've got 'em pumped up to 30 psi, as suggested on the inside of my car door. Is anyone else experiencing this problem? Any suggestions? I'm considering replacing the tires with BFGoodrich Traction T/A's. Think this will help?

Thank you.
Vincent

ncampbell2002

It's because they put a cheaper set of Firestones on the Civics instead of putting the Michelins on there like they do the Accords, or maybe you're a leadfoot...although not that that is a bad thing . If you're looking for more traction though I would upgrade to something better, such as maybe a Michelin or even what you are talking about would be fine.

snarks

A cheaper solution is ease up when accelarating from a dead stop, once moving/rolling you can press the accelerator harder. Its much cheaper than throwing away tires.