VIN check
guzzel
Member Posts: 4
My neighbor bought a 78' MB SL450. He would like to know if there is a site where he can find out the history of the vehicle by using the VIN, which has only 12 digits.
CARFAX is no good, since it will not accept anything less than 17 digits.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
- guzzel
CARFAX is no good, since it will not accept anything less than 17 digits.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
- guzzel
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Comments
People who want to know the actual history of older cars have to trace them from previous owner to previous owner.
Sometimes, a club dedicated to a certain type of car will have a "registry", wherein club members list their VINs and known history and then the club keeps a record (usually private for club members) of each VIN.
If your state keeps the same license plate on the car from owner to owner, that's another lead, but the DMV will not give out that information to the public. You'd have to have a friend in the police force, etc.
CARFAX and other services only use public records anyway, and all they tell you is how many owners and in what state (but not their names or addresses) and the mileage at which each change in ownership occurred. Also they'd tell you if the car had a salvage title at one time.
But for a car like this, such information isn't all that useful, IMO, since mileage and salvage wouldn't affect value very much if at all at this point.
Other than curiosity, what's your neighbor trying to get at here?
Thanks for the quick reply. I think he wants the info that a CARFAX report would provide, no necessarily who the actual owners were.
I did find the breakdown of the 12 digit VIN, but not too much info there. Position 1-6 is the chassis number; Position 7 is either 1=LH drive, or 2=RH drive; Position 8 is 0=Stnd trans, 1=Hydraulic clutch, 2=auto trans; and finally Position 9-14 is Construction serial number.
I'll print out your reply and take it over to him. Thanks again!
- guzzel
- guzzel
Perhaps if he could find out where the car was first sold (which dealer) or which repair shop worked on it, he could gather up bits snd pieces of information from repair orders.
but you know, usually with a 30 year old car, what you see is what you get. Sometimes the car itself can tell you all you need to know.
I didn't ask him how much he paid for it (none of my business), and he didn't offer the info. So don't know if he got a good deal or not.
Anyway, thanks for all the input.
- guzzel
You might check the GTO Registry on Google. They often keep track of cars by VIN #. Of course, probably 90% of all '65 GTOs are junked by now, but you never know.
Here's my question. After reading some of the post it seems that once these engines go, you just junk the car because they cost $6,000 to $8,000 to replace. Even though the car seems great I fear I made a bad choice. I was also going to sell my 60 Tbird to offset the cost for this car and have a little chabge left over. Now, I feel I might have may a mistake. I was told these engines had a long life. ANY THOUGHTS OR COMMENTS WILL BE REALLY APPRECIATED. AM I JUST FEELING BUYERS REMORSE OR DID I INVEST ON THE WRONG CAR???? I am just using it for pleasure drives & car shows? :confuse:
Here's my question. After reading some of the post it seems that once these engines go, you just junk the car because they cost $6,000 to $8,000 to replace. Even though the car seems great I fear I made a bad choice. I was also going to sell my 60 Tbird to offset the cost for this car and have a little chabge left over. Now, I feel I might have may a mistake. I was told these engines had a long life. ANY THOUGHTS OR COMMENTS WILL BE REALLY APPRECIATED. AM I JUST FEELING BUYERS REMORSE OR DID I INVEST ON THE WRONG CAR???? I am just using it for pleasure drives & car shows? :confuse:
If the car has been maintained, it has many years ahead of it, so don't be too worried. If you like the car a lot, and it pukes up the engine - just replace it with a used engine, much cheaper than a rebuild (a full job would probably run 10K, more than the car is worth). But I wouldn't lose any sleep over the engine dying. Enjoy the car.
However, if you are thinking of it as an investment, you might not see much return. R107s seem to have a great survival rate, they are not rare and not appreciating yet...and I don't see them doing so for quite some time.
I also respectfully disagree about the engine--if it goes, don't fix the car--just buy another 450SL for less money than even a used engine replacement.
Rebuilding these engines are well over $12,000, up to $15,000---not $6,000.
If you do put money into the car, put it in cosmetics--that will assure that you can at least recoup your original investment. This car is worth no more with a new engine than it is now, oddly enough.
So spiff it up a bit and take it in for regular maintenance and it should last you a long time. Find a good independent shop to take care of it. Don't ever go to the dealer except for parts and then only as a last resort.
Joining the MB club will be a big help to you as well.
I guess I am looking at worst scenario that I should have look at before I bought the car, but that car has many new parts including refurished & seal gas tank, new fuel pump, springs, Bilstein shocks, tie rods, pwr str pump, heat servo exhaust, tires/rims etc. Mr. Shift pointed out that rebuilts are not the way to go, because you can buy a decent 450 for about the same price. He right about that. Something to ponder if the engine goes. But as I mentioned to Mr Shift, if these are throw away cars if the engine needs to be rebuilt than won't there numbers dwindle , and make their prices go up?? Anyway, I appreciate your advise & expertise on this matter. Thanks-Jack
So really I think the fate of 450SLs rests not on their own future rarity, but rather on the future rarity of the car that everyone wants, the 280SL. If the 280 dries up, then the 450 will look more attractive.
That's my two cents anyway.
I can't imagine rebuilding a 450SL V8 engine for $5,000, that is, doing a long block with all the extras like hoses, belts, gaskets, water pump, re-cored radiator and highest quality German parts. I think that price must mean an "overhaul" with shortcuts, or maybe this is a short block with Japanese pistons, etc? Don't know.
They cost a lot because of the precision required, the metallurgy and the cost of German parts. Yes, a shop that rebuilds Chevy V-8s could rebuild this engine but I wouldn't count on its longevity. There are so many ways to make mistakes with these engines.
Used engines are one way to go but keep in mind that the "warranty" only applies to the engine. If they sell you a used engine and it craps out, that's fine, they'll take it back, but they aren't going to pay you for the labor, and doing an R&R.
It's no disgrace to be a "throw away car". There are many fine cars that are throw-aways if the engine goes.....Porsche 928s come to mind, also 80s era Ferraris, most 80s Rolls Royces, just about any Jaguar made after 1973, etc.
Any complex old car has pitfalls. You can't avoid that, but you can minimalize them by buying the very best car you can afford, even if you have to pay a premium price for it.
A low miles beautifully maintained 450SL for $15,000 is always going to be worth that, as long as you keep it up. A shabby 450SL with rips, tears and dents will be very hard to unload even if it's running, and near impossible if it breaks.
Thanks-Jack
You're right, we did stray off topic. My bad.
Realistically, without seeing the car and knowing more of it's history, it may be worth $3K up to about $8K in todays market. Go over to Ebay and do a search on mercedes 450sl and you'll see lots of real nice ones in that range. It's a narrow niche market for these cars.
If it comes from the rust belt I wouldn't have anything to do with it myself.
If indeed the car were professionally restored, be prepared to take a huge beating financially, sad to say. This is not a car one can restore to a high standard and ever come out whole on.
Given today's market and the car's appetite for fuel, don't turn down a good offer.
1. The proper GTO emblems on the outside of the car are not correct (they say "custom"). :mad:
2. A close look at the GTO grill indicate it"IS" real. :confuse:
3. The headless rusted out engine block is a 326 NOT the 400 I thought it was.
Conclusion: Someone changed the grill etc. to the GTO look but the dang car is a Le Mans! This is the VIN 235176B139151 Do I need to research more? Can anyone confirm my conclusion?Looking again I found a 326 emblem in the trunk.
By the way, the statute of limitations on FRAUD only starts ticking at the moment of discovery. So you could sue the seller.
My experience has been that most deceptions of this type are not very clever----there are a FEW that are very clever, but these are usually reserved for very big buck cars.
My rule of thumb is that on a given car, a string of "dubious" things points to fraud, even if nothing can be absolutely proven.
Case in point---a missing VIN tag that was "lost during restoration", a data plate in the wrong place....the use of modern fasteners to rivet a VIN plate....a "decked" engine with missing ID numbers. Also ZERO documentation is suspicious. Also lots of mis-matched date codes on various components. (NO, you cannot have an engine made in MAY 1966 put into a car made in January 1966).
On some bogus GTO's, you can shine a flashlight down the opening of the rear windows and see where the body filler leaks out of the holes that held the "Tempest" script to the body.
As shifty said...the VIN says it all... 35 indicates it was born a Tempest Custom.
The 42 would I.D. it as a goat.
Use a rating scale like this:
#1 -- show quality better than new
#2 -- very sharp, local show, you have to look to find small defects
#3 -- clean driver--a few little dings, paint still nice and shiny but some chips, chrome a bit dull, a few flaws in carpet and upholstery, runs well, undercarriage is old looking but no rust, no big dents anywhere, trunk is pretty clean, engine looks decent, not full of grease and oil and shredded hood insulation.
#4 -- running complete car but from across the street, you can see problems.
#5 -- beat up, not running, but not stripped of parts or bad bad rust.
#6 -- obvious parts car
The best topic is here:
What's This Thing Worth?
#1 -- show quality better than new - Would look appropriate planted on a set of rusty old steel rimes like they do at the local Pick-n-Pull.
#2 -- very sharp, local show, you have to look to find small defects - The entire body has not been cared for since what looks like 1966 (however, being in CA, it's mostly surface and repairable, no holes.
#3 -- clean driver--a few little dings, paint still nice and shiny but some chips, chrome a bit dull, a few flaws in carpet and upholstery, runs well, undercarriage is old looking but no rust, no big dents anywhere, trunk is pretty clean, engine looks decent, not full of grease and oil and shredded hood insulation. - NO shine at all, there are a few chips along the edges of bondo from a few repairs; the heads and all accessories are removed but inside where the rear seat should be. The front seats are present and "ok" as well as the complete dash; all glass is present and not broken; carpet needs a good cleaning; all chrome suspension, drive train exhaust etc. are present.
#4 -- running complete car but from across the street, you can see problems. - Looking under the hood one can see where the cylinders are but not the cylinder walls due to the rust; it's not likely to get any compression without the heads.
#5 -- beat up, not running, but not stripped of parts or bad bad rust. Could fit into this category. The G-60's on the rear still hold air.
#6 -- obvious parts car - although it appears all parts are accounted for I notice two generators not just one, maybe some mod they did back then.
Ray
't know what it goes to. The description on the title is vague. Is there a site that I can enter the vin and find out what it goes to?
Please if anyone can help me. I'm trying to locate my wife's, late grandfather's 1979 450SL. The family sold the car several years ago after he passed, and she would be thrilled to get it back. I was hoping I could just do a carfax on the VIN# and find out some info, but apparently carfax (and everywhere else I found) will only take VIN#s for cars from 1981 and newer. Does anyone know of a way I can get some vehicle history info on this car? the VIN# is 10704412057228.
thank you,
-michael
I have a 1971 Bmw 2002 that was sold to me and the VIN is nowhere to be found on the body, but the previous owner somehow registered it. How can I remedy this problem. I have numbers on the registration, but Motor vehicles won't register it without a "pencil rub copy" ; they won't just go off the number on the registration.
BMW 2002 VIN PLATE
If my memory serves, this is located on the right side inner fender, just back of the shock tower.
If these plates have been stripped off, y'all got problems and maybe a stolen car.
I'm trying to find a little pickup for myself to help with errands around the home. I found an ad on craigslist for a 1995 Nissan King Cab XE 133,850 miles, Automatic with asking price $2450. Body has dings, dents and scrapes. Paint is fading. Interior has wear & tear. Can someone PLEASE, PLEASE check the VIN# 1N6SD16S2SC460223 for me to see if this would be a good vehicle to purchase.
Look how pretty this one is for nearly the same $$$:
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/1732209680.html
or here's one same price:
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1733508519.html
As you can see, you don't have to spring at the one you saw. There's better out there.
1 front end accident reported in 1997
Always registered in the Atlanta, GA area (the accident was in PA, however)
1 owner, but that's questionable based on the # of titles issued. Could be due to loans being taken out on it by the owner though.
Always passed emission tests.
Personally I would stay clear of it.
I am new to this site. I was reviewing it and noticed that someone had asked for vin check. Is there anyone who could check a vin number for me please???
I am wanting to buy a 1987 Nissan Hardbody. The vin # is 1N6ND16Y5H0375659...
I would really appreciate the help.
Thanks...
Thanks,
Jeremy
2001 Audi A4 Avant 1.8t
Go ahead and post the information here, I'll be checking the thread.