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Saturn Maintenance & Repair

13468917

Comments

  • techszewskitechszewski Member Posts: 1
    I just had the engine on my 95 SW2 (132,500 mi) checked out to be sure it was in shape to make the return trip to Boston from Atlanta. It's not. Valves ready to go, clutch also starting to slip. For about a month, it's been stalling out at least once a week. Service engine light comes on, but then the next day it's fine. Reverse on an decline results in lots of ugly exhaust smoke.

    The mechanic said he could put a junk yard engine in for $2600 no warranty. I'm tempted to drive it into the ground. Do I have any other options? Blue book value is only $700, trade in $3500, but that would drop once they checked the engine I imagine.

    So much for a happy graduation from grad school,

    tom
  • pespinopespino Member Posts: 4
    I have a 93 sl2 saturn with ~120k miles. Once the brake is depressed the car falters then eventually stalls. The mechanic says that I have very low compression and that the engine is shot, but I doubt it because I still manage to run a high speeds easily (70-90mph or higher).
    I believe it may be electrical because once I engage the brakes, both my flasher turn signals light up slightly, not full as when I use the turn signals or hazard. And another symptom that may support my suspicion, is that once I use the brakes, the rear brake light lights up (normal) and so does both the amber turn signals (abnormal) and the back-up clear light indicator.
    I checked all the fuses and relays and cant seem to correct the problem. :cry:
    Would appreciate if anyone can suggest a fix or a second opinion before I head to a second mechanic.
  • dhersheydhershey Member Posts: 1
    The key is falling out of the ignition lock on my 2001 Saturn SW2. The car continues to drive fine even without the key. Can someone please tell me what is wrong and how much it would be to fix.

    Thank You
  • electrofunkelectrofunk Member Posts: 1
    Hi there.
    I have a 5 speed 2002 Saturn SL2, 78000km, and the other day while I was driving I went to shift the gear from first to second, and all of a sudden the gear shift went lose and I could not get it into second. I couldn't get it back into first either and the only gear that worked was third. I got into third, and with minimal power I was able to get up and over the hill I was on and park the car. I really strong burning smell was quite prevailant immediately afterwards. I had to call roadside assistance and have the car towed back to my house. Even after 45 minutes of waiting, the smell was still really strong. I have no idea what might be wrong and I am a bit worried to take it in. Obviously I will have to do so, but I don't want some mechanic to tell me something is wrong, that isn't. I'm not a very car savy guy so I don't know much about transmissions at all. I've heard a few people say it couldn't be something as easy as a "pin" that holds the tranny in place? I don't know though. Any idea what might be wrong? is this something that's going to cost an arm and a leg to fix?

    Thanks
  • speaker99speaker99 Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone- I have the Saturday afternoon BLUES . I dropped my 1997 SC2 148 K and had them check out a mysterious code problem. SES light on and off. I had them put on good wires and NGK plugs and clean the coil towers. They cleared the code drove the car a few miles and came back to test it again. In freeze frame P341 still shows up, and also P1651- Fan Control Relay and P1650 Driver 2 Input Voltage High

    I did notice the SES light did not come on when I started the engine- ( maybe the bulb is out)?

    As a novice to electronics why do all three of these seems related?
    :cry:
    Any thing I need to have them check next? I left the car until Monday morning when they reopen, but the tech I talked to did say we need to check the voltage. I printed the thread from ealier post regarding P0341 code and information and had he read it before I left.

    I don't want to spend an arm and a leg on a reapir- and my wife says get rid of the car- its a lemon- only 148K no oil leaks rides smooth, but a little leak in the sunroof- HELP
    Any suggestions? :cry:
  • nikoleknikolek Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I am new and this is my first posting. I own a 5-spd 1995 SC1 and she is my dearest. I love her to pieces, but unfortionatly I don't know much about cars. My baby is acting strange so I decided to ask this forum before I take it to a garage. Normally the car idols at 500 rpm. One night I started her up, she was idoling at 1500 rpm. She shakes, not horribly, but it's not quite the 'plugs and wires missing' shake. She only shakes when she idols. Temp is not high, no problems shifting or getting up to speed, she drives fine. She burns oil and it has been getting progressively worse, but since the idol and shaking, she is starting to smell much worse. Any ideas? Thanks so much! :cry:
  • sandpipersandpiper Member Posts: 1
    A few days ago the exhaust started giving off a tapping/buzz sound until the engine warms up for a few minutes or is driven about a block. It seems to be located about even with the seats where what I guess are the converter and resonator are located. So far I haven't found anything loose under the car. It varys with the engine speed but it isn't coming directly from the engine as I crawled halfway under it while the engine was running and it was coming from that area of the exhaust. I'd appreciate any suggestions as to what may be at fault. Thanks. :confuse:
  • zanzigzanzig Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 LS2 the is basically just like a L300, I have the same or similar problem, when I try to start it the security light blinks and it will turn over but not start. I just got back from the Saturn dealer after the “fixed” this problem by replacing the BCM (computer control), on my return trip home from Saturn some 90 miles from home stopping at a gas station I realized the replacing the BCM did NOT fix this problem. I am prepared to go to court on this one as I asked the service manager if this would defiantly take care of the problem before I had the work done, they assured me it would (verbal contract), as of course none of their service work will have any warranty either expressed or implied. Well at least I paid with a credit card – very unsatisfied Saturn owner.
  • whiplashwhiplash Member Posts: 2
    I'm guessing that you either live in a Northern state or Canada (where salt is used on the roads in the winter) or a coastal city (where you're exposed to the salt from the ocean/Gulf of Mexico).
    This can affect the rivets (or at least they sure look like rivets) used to secure the heat shields (and usually the first ones to go are right below the passenger seats of the car).
    I would check the long straight heat shield (right under the seats) and make sure that it's secure. Saturn will replace the rivets used to secure the heat shield at a nominal cost (they just drill out the old ones and pop in new ones, or you can do that yourself if you have a pop riveter).
    While your checking out your heat shields, be sure to check that the exhaust pipes are properly positioned and secured in the hangers as misalignment of the exhaust system can also cause strange noises.
    A failed catalytic converter will also rattle/buzz, so be sure to listen specifically to it as well. With the exhaust system cold (so you don't burn your hand), you can firmly hit the catalytic converter with your fist (straight up from the bottom) to see if there are any loose pieces of the ceramic catalyst present.
    I hope this helps.
  • whiplashwhiplash Member Posts: 2
    It sounds like you have a bad ground on one of your brake lights (or the third/high-stop light). I would double check the fuses (I believe there are separate fuses for the normal brake lights and the third/high-stop light) and make sure that you don't have any water in the lights.
    If all the fuses check out and there's no evidence of moisture, make sure that all the brake light bulb housings and connectors haven't corroded out.
    I hope this helps.
  • rbillieuxrbillieux Member Posts: 36
    most of the problems were caused by a mechanic turning idle screw the wrong way--- :) nice people--vacuum test ok would go up to 2000 when put into park engine light on--trans shifting erratic-temp sensor bad corrected surging-all other sensors replaced--throttle body cleaned about 250.00 parts my labor and brothers I canott name co. I do business with but I wish I could transcript follows----The idle stop screw controls the min idle speed of the engine from which the PCM will raise the idle speed as necessary for operation condition and load The stop screw is pre -set at factory and requires no periodic adj--be aware that improper adj will rsult in false PCM codes idle instability and problems with shifting of auto transaxle--should be done when replacing throttle body and correct speed cannot be obtained alt can produce same symptoms too R Billieux sr---
  • halserhalser Member Posts: 20
    unioncode,

    Was my info helpfull? What did you decide to do?

    Halser
  • crbcrb Member Posts: 10
    I actually just had this problem fixed (for good I hope!) last week. I had been dealing with an independent mechanic who could not fix the problem, so he spoke with a friend of his that specializes in auto electronics. After describing the problem, he told my mechanic it was almost definitely the BCM, which meant I had to take the car to Saturn (Saturn doesn't release security codes to independent mechanics). Luckily, the repair seems to have worked.

    Actually, the Saturn repairs ARE warrantied. The standard warranty from a Saturn dealer is 12 months/12K miles (whichever comes first). I asked before having the repairs done to be sure. If they made a mistake, they should fix it at no cost to you.

    Also, you may want to have them make sure they reprogrammed all of your keyless entry remotes and the ignition system. If they replaced the BCM without doing that, it wouldn't work at all.
  • blackpacificblackpacific Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Saturn SW2. Back in November I noticed oil sludge in the coolant side of things, but no coolant on the oil side. I assumed that the head gasket had failed (@ only 72K), so I pulled the head, had it resurfaced, put in a new gasket, used the old bolts, and zipped it back up. I noticed right away that there was now lots of coolant in the oil side of things, and no oil in the coolant. I pulled the head off again, had the head pressure checked, and it was fine. I got in a tiff with the local Saturn dealer about whether I should have used new head bolts. Another engine, a long block, became available, so rather than mess with the original block/head, I dropped the long block in. I zipped it up, ran it, and it began to leak oil profusely. Again, there was lots of coolant in the oil side, no oil in the coolant, causing the excess oil/coolant to go overboard.

    Here is my question to Saturn home mechanics who know the answer. Is there any other interface, besides the head gasket plane, where oil and coolant can come together? For example, the intake manifold, a radiator with side oil coolers, etc....I find it hard to believe that I've got another failed head gasket.
  • standonitstandonit Member Posts: 2
    I bought a Saturn LS about 6 months ago, The car has been good to the wife. It presently has 68,000 miles on it. I have done most of the basic servicing on this car:brakes, oil changes, etc.
    My question is, how do I change the spark plugs on this V-6? What do I need to remove to access the plugs?
    I had a 93 Taurus SHO 3.0 and that was a bear of a car to change spark plugs
    Thanks in advance.
  • jdangerouslyjdangerously Member Posts: 2
    I have the above titled Saturn, and while installing a cd player, I shorted the accessory power to the frame (yes I did it, no fabled mechanic here) and since I have experienced a whole world of problems. First and foremost the vehicle will not start unless you press the unlock or lock button while turning the key (imagine how long it took to figure that out).
    All of the auxillary electrical systems work (with the exception of the power locks, but I'm getting to that) but the ignition is completely haywire. When I turn the key to start, nothing happens... at all, no clicking no power drain, nothing, even tried jumping it, no change. So I hold it there (the start position) and press the lock button and it turns over. Oh, likewise the interior lights don't work unless you're holding down the lock button.
    Problem number two. Not only does the lock button seem to govern the world of my engine, but it no longer does it's job. both the lock and the unlock button, lock the vehicle, unless you hold down the lock button for a few clicks, then switch to unlock, it will unlock one side and lock the other.... yes, it is beginning to sound like an all to familar Steven King book. Oh.. and the keyless entry does not work. I tried to resyncronize it, nothing doing.
    And to top it all off, the cd player still doesn't work.

    I assume that I've damaged one of the relays or some other peice of electronic thingy that I can't find. Anyone out there know what I'm talking about... or have I passed in to that relm of ... at least you're not as screwed as this one guy I read about....

    Thanx to anyone who can help.
  • jdangerouslyjdangerously Member Posts: 2
    ....um... uh.... nevermind?

    one day of frustration, and one 10 amp CHIME fuse later... problem solved, and all is well in the camp. SO... anyone who needs to start their car without this apparently all mighty, super important fuse.... don't forget to unlock.
  • warloquewarloque Member Posts: 1
    well the film is most likely the adhesive they use to put the glass on there a scrubby pad ya can get from hardware stores to remove it dodges and chevy's have that problem alot

    and the a/c isnt what isnt turning off the wind outside the car is actually blowing thru the climate control air intake and thats what ya feel has a tendecy to spin the fan with no power if ya go fast enough i actually have a different problem my ac/ heat fan recently went and died on me
  • rbillieuxrbillieux Member Posts: 36
    engine light back on same symptoms--trans acting up sticking in lower gear--map code on up and down --low voltage--where? I would advise anyone who ownes a older saturn to get rid of it Bob :P
  • inevoinevo Member Posts: 1
    Hi! ...I`m realy sorry that your baby have been having sick... I have a 92 sl saturn, and i like to realy take care about it!... I think that the problem must be the air temperature sensor or the coolant temperature sensor! These sensors affect the PCM to control the inyection and must be sending a bad signal... These sensors are cheaper than take your car in a garage... I hope that it helps to you to repair your car.

    :blush:
  • acesellacesell Member Posts: 3
    Well I waited till 100K to have the plugs done. You have to take the intake off (the metal part that says "3.0 V6" ) and a few other tricky parts. Knowing that I had the dealership do it for about $350!!! Of that most was labor and $13.36 a plug! Nothing is cheap with that engine. At your mileage I would look for oil leaks from that oil cooler and leaks in the cooling system. The cooling system has a problem of the thermostat housing leak. I had to have both done on my car at your same mileage. At a cost $991.98! So if you smell anti-freeze watch out!! If those parts are bad you might want to have the plugs done since they have take that side of motor apart down to the plugs.
  • acesellacesell Member Posts: 3
    I had a crank position sensor fixed on mine....same issue as you had. That fixed it
  • acesellacesell Member Posts: 3
    www.safecar.gov you can check recalls and file a claim with NITSA. I heard on the news today CNN (i think) that there will be a recall on them
  • crabithacrabitha Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Saturn Wagon. The airbag light started coming on the month after I bought the car. I took it to the dealer and they replaced a sensor. The light started coming on again. They replaced the sensor again. A week or so later, the airbag light came on again so I took it back to my Saturn dealer. I agreed to leave the car with them for a week so they could ...ehrm...I'm not sure....hook up with some other mechanics in Delaware where my car was built (if I rememer correctly). They discovered the problem was that the wires were installed opposite of how they should have been at the factory and the local Saturn dealer had to be walked through fixing it step by step but I've never had any problems with it since then. I don't know if that helps or not.
  • crabithacrabitha Member Posts: 2
    My son's Saturn has around 160,000 miles on it and has been running fine (unless you're one of those people who has a problem with putting oil into a car regularly) until yesterday when he says that the RPMs seemed to go a bit crazy now and then as he pressed the gas pedal though the engine didn't respond to the wild RPMs. He is a college student who delivers pizza so his car is driven frequently on short trips. Tonight when he got in his car to leave work, the engine started fine, he was able to shift into first but the car won't move even though the RPMs are energetic. Does this sound like something obvious and cheap (please oh please...I have two children in college). Also,
    because his car is 60 miles away in his college town, it is 60 miles away from the nearest Saturn dealer (our regular dealer here in town) and I know AAA will only tow the car to one of their 'approved' garages or a limit of 3 miles. We have always taken all of our Saturns to the Saturn dealer for maintenance so I'm concerned. Any suggestions? Thanks. :confuse:
  • jimbo15jimbo15 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with a 92 Saturn. Did your ever find a resolution? Thank you in advance for any assistance you can offer.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Sounds like time for a clutch job. Any competent garage should be able to do this. Price will vary depending on your location, but I'd guess $500-$700 unless you can find somebody who knows what they are doing and wants to moonlight the job.
  • j4000j4000 Member Posts: 1
    Did you find a solution? I have a 93 SC2 that does almost the same thing. I'm desperate for a solution. When you hit the brakes with the turn signal on it sometime makes one brake light go out and the turn signal dims.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Usually a poor ground on one of the tail lights or corrosion in the light socket.
  • seawebseaweb Member Posts: 1
    :cry:

    Just this week my timing chain went. It did not occur on the road, the car just did not start up. I have a 2000 LW1 with 107,000 approximately. I will contant the NHTSA as you advise.
  • pespinopespino Member Posts: 4
    Thanks, will do that again, although I did check fuses and bulbs, but will try to do that this afternoon.
    Thanks for the reply.
  • halserhalser Member Posts: 20
    Hello saturnpro. Reference to post #203. The trans bangs into a lower gear when slowing down. This only happens once about every 10 to 15 times when I slow down in rush hour traffic (stop and go). It doesn't matter if it is a complete stop or not. How can I check the actuator or for a broken wire to the actuator? Where are they located on the transmission? I tried Gunk transmission treatment. The Trans worked fine for 1500 miles, but now the bang is coming back. I hope it is not the valve body.
    Thanks Halser
  • salemcatsalemcat Member Posts: 2
    My 1995 Saturn SW2 has run well for over 100K - until last month. At a Stop Sign it suddenly refused to shift out of 3rd. I gingerly brought it home. On the highway it was fine, but every time I stopped it was slow going to get rolling again Once home, it suddenly refused to start at all ! So I put in a New Battery, which fixed everything - until last night.

    On my way home from BJ's, in traffic, it began falling out of gear every time I stopped. When I gave it gas to go, there would be a 3-4 second hesitation before it went. I carefully drove home. and called a Transmission Shop.

    Today I drove to the Transmission Shop. No problems at all driving there. The Technician Test Drove it - no issues then, either. Clean fluid, too. We shut it off, talked for a while, and I then tried to drive it away. The hesitation from a dead stop was back, and it clunked big time as it shifted into reverse.

    He placed a Snap On Computer on it: "65 Ignition Volts Out of Range" and "52 Info Flag - Battery Volts Out of Range." Then we shut it off.

    He was unsure what this meant, other than it was an Electrical Issue.

    So I went to leave - the car wouldn't start at all ! The Starter Solenoid just clicked. So we Jump Started it, and I drove home - once again with no problems.

    So I'm wondering - is it a Transmission Issue at all ? Or just Electrical ? Or both ? And if Electrical, what's broken ?
  • halserhalser Member Posts: 20
    Hello saturnpro. Reference to post #203. I forgot to mention that my Saturn is a 1994 SL2 with 125,000 miles. I had the trans valve body replaced 5 years ago when it had 72,000 miles. At that time it would not go into reverse once the car was warmed up. Now the trans sometimes bangs when downshifting into a lower gear as I am slowing down. This only happens once about every 10 to 15 times when I slow down in rush hour traffic (stop and go). It doesn't matter if it is a complete stop or not. How can I check the actuator or for a broken wire to the actuator? Where are they located on the transmission? I tried Gunk transmission treatment. The Trans worked fine for 1500 miles, but now the bang is coming back. I hope it is not the valve body.
    Thanks Halser
  • pespinopespino Member Posts: 4
    Not yet, still have not worked on car by "whiplash" suggestion, but should be able to work on the car this weekend.
    In the meantime, to prevent stalling, I just slam on the brakes and cruise to a stop. It only stalls upon continuous application of the brake, and worsens when I have a turn signal on. :sick:
  • fugazyfugazy Member Posts: 1
    I am also having the same problem. I have a 94 saturn SL2 and i had just replaced the clutch along with the master/slave assembly. I cant get the clutch to disengage. If any one knows a solution please help. Thanks in advance. :mad: :confuse:
  • tdg32561tdg32561 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 SL and just last night my saturn was parked in my driveway and the horn went off for no reason. Well this happened in two hour intervals thru the night and finally stopped going off. When it was going off i pressed on the horn on steering wheel and nothing. This morning I changed the fuse twice and still my horn doesn't work from the inside and I hope tonight it stays off under the hood. How did you disable the horn completely? Please let me know.
  • bagelbagel Member Posts: 3
    I have a 93 SL 4 door. I was driving Thursday last week and the battery light came on. Eventually the car died. After putting a charge on the battery the car would drive untill the battery died again. So I drove it in the garage yesterday disconnected the battery and replaced the bad alternator. After reconnecting the battery the car will not start. All the lights work but the car just wont crank over. Its almost like the car had an alarm in it and it had an ignition kill or like it's not in park(nuetral saftey switch). Everything works but it just wont crank.CAN ANYONE HELP?????? PLEASE.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    If you ran the battery down to no charge whatsoever, it may be damaged, and even if the battery is okay, just "quick charging it" from a charger, or trying to charge it up from the alternator, may cause further damage.

    When a battery drains to zero, it must be slow charged and then load-tested. You must NEVER try to charge it from the alternator, or you'll be buying both a new battery and yet another alternator.
  • bagelbagel Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info. I did have it on the charger for about 3 hrs and according to the meter is was fully charged. When i checked it with a voltage meter while trying to start the car the voltage didn't drop which is basicly saying the car is not even trying to start, like the netrual saftey switch is not made or something. I'm dropping it off at a shop tonight and when they charge me through the nose to fix it i'll let you know what it was But if anyone else has any ideas let me know and i'll try um before i drop it off.

    Thanks again for the help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    You could try a jump start. A battery charger gauge or a volt meter can easily fool you. A battery can only be tested with a load tester. You could show 12-14 volts with a meter and still have a battery that could barely handle a dome light much less a starter motor asking for 200 amperes.

    Try this. Turn on your headlights without starting the car. Do they shine brightly (no headlights, you have battery or battery cable problems. YES to headlights, then try to start car with headlights on. HEADLIGHTS GO OUT when you try to crank car, then you have a bad battery or cables.....HEADLIGHTS REMAIN BRIGHT, car doesn't start or make a noise or anything, then yes, you may very well have a bad neutral safety swtich or bad starter relay.
  • bagelbagel Member Posts: 3
    Well the headlights remain bright at all times even when trying to start. I just called saturn and the told me the hot wire from the back of the alternator goes directly to the starter. That wire has a fusable link in line so i'm going to check continuity in that wire. If it's good he said the big pole on the starter should have constant power when the ign. is on, and the small pole on the starter should have power when the key is in the start position, so if that dosen't have power i need to start tracing it back (fuses and wires). So i figure i'll "f" with it tonight for a few hours and if i can't figure it out i'm going to drop it off at Saturn tomorrow. By the way the service guy at Saturn of Milford, CT is the first service guy that actually gave me some help insead of just say bring it in and we will look at it. So if anyone needs a saturn service place in CT call PHIL at saturn of milford he seems like a good guy.

    Hey thanks agian for the help. As soon as i get this thing going again i'll post what was wrong with it on the board.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Well from what you report it does sound like the starter motor/relay system is not getting any current when you turn the key. If it were, the lights would have dimmed. Well the relay could be getting current but not responding, that's also possible.

    If you aren't getting current to the starter relay, you'd have to suspect:

    neutral safety switch
    ignition switch
    a fusible link or fuse
  • guitronicsguitronics Member Posts: 1
    My wife has a 2000 LS2.We both love that car.We bought it new,in Jan '01...and it came with a 5 year warrantee.I insisted she take the car to the dealer for all maintenance until the warrantee expires.Here's a list of Problems;of which they fixed :

    1:Ignition key tumbler...n/c
    2:Transmission selector problems...n/c
    3:Tires...she bought the stock replacements(next year they'll get upgraded)
    4:Brakes re-done twice...once by dealer,other by a friend.
    5:oil/filter changes...all done by dealer
    6:minor interior electrical problems...n/c
    7:Two batteries...1 rep by dlr,1 repl by battery shop
    8:Spark plugs REP by DLR 12/2004...$200! DLR (ouch).
    9:Stalling/No start...last week DLR replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor...n/c

    My wife's had many cars in her lifetime...just turned 50.This is the best,most comfortable,most reliable,and no-hassle (DLR) car she's ever owned...that includes me,too.

    For an around-town car,it is great.Good gas mileage,power (3.0 opel V-6 Engine),killer stereo,4-doors for company (kids in back),awesome trunk space,we'll keep this car many years, regardless of repairs to be made."A fine car,an awesome experience,and a great dealer/repair system".

    I work for GM...assembling H/D Trucks...."This has been the most trouble-free car,and the least arguing with dealer car I've ever bought". :D
  • jcavallojcavallo Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 "L" Series which is experiencing a no start (Turns Over But No Start) after driven. After waiting for a period of time from 20 minutes to an hour, the car starts fine & runs perfectly. This is happening at random times but lately more more my wife has been stranded until the car cools down. The car has never quit running while being driven. I brought it in to the Dealer & they changed my computer module which cost over $400.00. Two days later my wife was stranded again in the heat of a 90 degree day. The car was parked all day in a parking lot-- started & driven a mile to get gas-- Attempted to start it & it turned over fine but no start. She waited a half hour & it started again & ran perfectly.
    I brought it again to the Dealer and they could not duplicate it. They kept the car for 2 days while I incurred the cost of a rental.
    I did some research on line & found that identical problems are caused by a faulty Crank Position Sensor. I went to the Dealer with the articles and they basically ignored the advice since the articles were about a different model Saturn. They mentioned it might be my Pass Module (security system).
    I went to the auto parts store to price the Crank Sensor & it was only $16.00.
    While I am confident that my problem is a bad Crank Position Sensor, I wanted to know if anyone had any other ideas.
    One article I read was after the crank sensor was replaced, the old sensor was placed in hot water to duplicate being heated up while checking the ohms the resistance shot up & then became fully opened. IT stayed open until it cooled down.
    This is the exact situation I am experiencing. Any other ideas would be helpful

    Joe
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Here's the gist of a couple of Saturn 2000 L series technical service bulletins pertaining to intermittent no start in hot weather, which might apply to your vehicle:

    TSB #00-T-28, replace main V6 relay in underhood fuse box. May set DTC P1780.

    TSB # 03-08-56-002, replace passlock sensor. May illuminate security telltale light and/or set DTC B2960.
  • salemcatsalemcat Member Posts: 2
    Hello SaturnPro ! The Battery Light on my 95 Saturn SW2 just lit up today. What does it mean ?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    I'm not him but it means that the battery isn't being charged. Usually indicates an alternator or charging system problem. They were bad for head gaskets leaking oil externally right onto the alternator, which would fry it.
  • bpl5150bpl5150 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    Can anyone help me out. I just purchased a 2003 saturn vue a couple of months ago and when the weather started getting warmer the Service, Brake and ABS lights keep flashing on and off. As it gets hotter they flash more and the speedometer falls back and forth to zero and sticks. At one point i lost the power steering for a few minutes. It seems to happen after the car is sitting in the sun for a while as i have no problems in the early morning or evening. I brought it to my mechanic he said it was the alternator and he replaced it but the problem still exists? Has anyone else had this problem? Let me know if you did and what fixed it. Thanks !!
  • yarmo32yarmo32 Member Posts: 1
    I have been having troble with my car starting and idling. Sometime I have to hold my throttle to the floor to get it to start and when Im at stop lights I have to keep my foot on the throttle to keep it from stalling. Other times it runs just fine. Occasionally it will rev itself up and want to go, but sometimes it dies down (loses power) and wont go. I bought a new fule pump but am reluctant to put it in, because of time and skill involved, and was wondering if you anyone has had this problem or knows what I can do before I put more money into the car. It has 156K on it. Any tests I can run to check the pump thats in there and make sure its ok. Any help would be great.
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