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Saturn Maintenance & Repair
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The mechanic said he could put a junk yard engine in for $2600 no warranty. I'm tempted to drive it into the ground. Do I have any other options? Blue book value is only $700, trade in $3500, but that would drop once they checked the engine I imagine.
So much for a happy graduation from grad school,
tom
I believe it may be electrical because once I engage the brakes, both my flasher turn signals light up slightly, not full as when I use the turn signals or hazard. And another symptom that may support my suspicion, is that once I use the brakes, the rear brake light lights up (normal) and so does both the amber turn signals (abnormal) and the back-up clear light indicator.
I checked all the fuses and relays and cant seem to correct the problem.
Would appreciate if anyone can suggest a fix or a second opinion before I head to a second mechanic.
Thank You
I have a 5 speed 2002 Saturn SL2, 78000km, and the other day while I was driving I went to shift the gear from first to second, and all of a sudden the gear shift went lose and I could not get it into second. I couldn't get it back into first either and the only gear that worked was third. I got into third, and with minimal power I was able to get up and over the hill I was on and park the car. I really strong burning smell was quite prevailant immediately afterwards. I had to call roadside assistance and have the car towed back to my house. Even after 45 minutes of waiting, the smell was still really strong. I have no idea what might be wrong and I am a bit worried to take it in. Obviously I will have to do so, but I don't want some mechanic to tell me something is wrong, that isn't. I'm not a very car savy guy so I don't know much about transmissions at all. I've heard a few people say it couldn't be something as easy as a "pin" that holds the tranny in place? I don't know though. Any idea what might be wrong? is this something that's going to cost an arm and a leg to fix?
Thanks
I did notice the SES light did not come on when I started the engine- ( maybe the bulb is out)?
As a novice to electronics why do all three of these seems related?
Any thing I need to have them check next? I left the car until Monday morning when they reopen, but the tech I talked to did say we need to check the voltage. I printed the thread from ealier post regarding P0341 code and information and had he read it before I left.
I don't want to spend an arm and a leg on a reapir- and my wife says get rid of the car- its a lemon- only 148K no oil leaks rides smooth, but a little leak in the sunroof- HELP
Any suggestions?
This can affect the rivets (or at least they sure look like rivets) used to secure the heat shields (and usually the first ones to go are right below the passenger seats of the car).
I would check the long straight heat shield (right under the seats) and make sure that it's secure. Saturn will replace the rivets used to secure the heat shield at a nominal cost (they just drill out the old ones and pop in new ones, or you can do that yourself if you have a pop riveter).
While your checking out your heat shields, be sure to check that the exhaust pipes are properly positioned and secured in the hangers as misalignment of the exhaust system can also cause strange noises.
A failed catalytic converter will also rattle/buzz, so be sure to listen specifically to it as well. With the exhaust system cold (so you don't burn your hand), you can firmly hit the catalytic converter with your fist (straight up from the bottom) to see if there are any loose pieces of the ceramic catalyst present.
I hope this helps.
If all the fuses check out and there's no evidence of moisture, make sure that all the brake light bulb housings and connectors haven't corroded out.
I hope this helps.
Was my info helpfull? What did you decide to do?
Halser
Actually, the Saturn repairs ARE warrantied. The standard warranty from a Saturn dealer is 12 months/12K miles (whichever comes first). I asked before having the repairs done to be sure. If they made a mistake, they should fix it at no cost to you.
Also, you may want to have them make sure they reprogrammed all of your keyless entry remotes and the ignition system. If they replaced the BCM without doing that, it wouldn't work at all.
Here is my question to Saturn home mechanics who know the answer. Is there any other interface, besides the head gasket plane, where oil and coolant can come together? For example, the intake manifold, a radiator with side oil coolers, etc....I find it hard to believe that I've got another failed head gasket.
My question is, how do I change the spark plugs on this V-6? What do I need to remove to access the plugs?
I had a 93 Taurus SHO 3.0 and that was a bear of a car to change spark plugs
Thanks in advance.
All of the auxillary electrical systems work (with the exception of the power locks, but I'm getting to that) but the ignition is completely haywire. When I turn the key to start, nothing happens... at all, no clicking no power drain, nothing, even tried jumping it, no change. So I hold it there (the start position) and press the lock button and it turns over. Oh, likewise the interior lights don't work unless you're holding down the lock button.
Problem number two. Not only does the lock button seem to govern the world of my engine, but it no longer does it's job. both the lock and the unlock button, lock the vehicle, unless you hold down the lock button for a few clicks, then switch to unlock, it will unlock one side and lock the other.... yes, it is beginning to sound like an all to familar Steven King book. Oh.. and the keyless entry does not work. I tried to resyncronize it, nothing doing.
And to top it all off, the cd player still doesn't work.
I assume that I've damaged one of the relays or some other peice of electronic thingy that I can't find. Anyone out there know what I'm talking about... or have I passed in to that relm of ... at least you're not as screwed as this one guy I read about....
Thanx to anyone who can help.
one day of frustration, and one 10 amp CHIME fuse later... problem solved, and all is well in the camp. SO... anyone who needs to start their car without this apparently all mighty, super important fuse.... don't forget to unlock.
and the a/c isnt what isnt turning off the wind outside the car is actually blowing thru the climate control air intake and thats what ya feel has a tendecy to spin the fan with no power if ya go fast enough i actually have a different problem my ac/ heat fan recently went and died on me
because his car is 60 miles away in his college town, it is 60 miles away from the nearest Saturn dealer (our regular dealer here in town) and I know AAA will only tow the car to one of their 'approved' garages or a limit of 3 miles. We have always taken all of our Saturns to the Saturn dealer for maintenance so I'm concerned. Any suggestions? Thanks. :confuse:
Just this week my timing chain went. It did not occur on the road, the car just did not start up. I have a 2000 LW1 with 107,000 approximately. I will contant the NHTSA as you advise.
Thanks for the reply.
Thanks Halser
On my way home from BJ's, in traffic, it began falling out of gear every time I stopped. When I gave it gas to go, there would be a 3-4 second hesitation before it went. I carefully drove home. and called a Transmission Shop.
Today I drove to the Transmission Shop. No problems at all driving there. The Technician Test Drove it - no issues then, either. Clean fluid, too. We shut it off, talked for a while, and I then tried to drive it away. The hesitation from a dead stop was back, and it clunked big time as it shifted into reverse.
He placed a Snap On Computer on it: "65 Ignition Volts Out of Range" and "52 Info Flag - Battery Volts Out of Range." Then we shut it off.
He was unsure what this meant, other than it was an Electrical Issue.
So I went to leave - the car wouldn't start at all ! The Starter Solenoid just clicked. So we Jump Started it, and I drove home - once again with no problems.
So I'm wondering - is it a Transmission Issue at all ? Or just Electrical ? Or both ? And if Electrical, what's broken ?
Thanks Halser
In the meantime, to prevent stalling, I just slam on the brakes and cruise to a stop. It only stalls upon continuous application of the brake, and worsens when I have a turn signal on. :sick:
When a battery drains to zero, it must be slow charged and then load-tested. You must NEVER try to charge it from the alternator, or you'll be buying both a new battery and yet another alternator.
Thanks again for the help.
Try this. Turn on your headlights without starting the car. Do they shine brightly (no headlights, you have battery or battery cable problems. YES to headlights, then try to start car with headlights on. HEADLIGHTS GO OUT when you try to crank car, then you have a bad battery or cables.....HEADLIGHTS REMAIN BRIGHT, car doesn't start or make a noise or anything, then yes, you may very well have a bad neutral safety swtich or bad starter relay.
Hey thanks agian for the help. As soon as i get this thing going again i'll post what was wrong with it on the board.
If you aren't getting current to the starter relay, you'd have to suspect:
neutral safety switch
ignition switch
a fusible link or fuse
1:Ignition key tumbler...n/c
2:Transmission selector problems...n/c
3:Tires...she bought the stock replacements(next year they'll get upgraded)
4:Brakes re-done twice...once by dealer,other by a friend.
5:oil/filter changes...all done by dealer
6:minor interior electrical problems...n/c
7:Two batteries...1 rep by dlr,1 repl by battery shop
8:Spark plugs REP by DLR 12/2004...$200! DLR (ouch).
9:Stalling/No start...last week DLR replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor...n/c
My wife's had many cars in her lifetime...just turned 50.This is the best,most comfortable,most reliable,and no-hassle (DLR) car she's ever owned...that includes me,too.
For an around-town car,it is great.Good gas mileage,power (3.0 opel V-6 Engine),killer stereo,4-doors for company (kids in back),awesome trunk space,we'll keep this car many years, regardless of repairs to be made."A fine car,an awesome experience,and a great dealer/repair system".
I work for GM...assembling H/D Trucks...."This has been the most trouble-free car,and the least arguing with dealer car I've ever bought".
I brought it again to the Dealer and they could not duplicate it. They kept the car for 2 days while I incurred the cost of a rental.
I did some research on line & found that identical problems are caused by a faulty Crank Position Sensor. I went to the Dealer with the articles and they basically ignored the advice since the articles were about a different model Saturn. They mentioned it might be my Pass Module (security system).
I went to the auto parts store to price the Crank Sensor & it was only $16.00.
While I am confident that my problem is a bad Crank Position Sensor, I wanted to know if anyone had any other ideas.
One article I read was after the crank sensor was replaced, the old sensor was placed in hot water to duplicate being heated up while checking the ohms the resistance shot up & then became fully opened. IT stayed open until it cooled down.
This is the exact situation I am experiencing. Any other ideas would be helpful
Joe
TSB #00-T-28, replace main V6 relay in underhood fuse box. May set DTC P1780.
TSB # 03-08-56-002, replace passlock sensor. May illuminate security telltale light and/or set DTC B2960.
Can anyone help me out. I just purchased a 2003 saturn vue a couple of months ago and when the weather started getting warmer the Service, Brake and ABS lights keep flashing on and off. As it gets hotter they flash more and the speedometer falls back and forth to zero and sticks. At one point i lost the power steering for a few minutes. It seems to happen after the car is sitting in the sun for a while as i have no problems in the early morning or evening. I brought it to my mechanic he said it was the alternator and he replaced it but the problem still exists? Has anyone else had this problem? Let me know if you did and what fixed it. Thanks !!