Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

mshan01

I also have a 2001 4cyl but I have an LX and I have approx 31,000 miles. Mine makes the same grinding rotational noise when the car is in drive and when you press on the accelerator. Reminds me of a freight train. The noise is loudest until you reach about 45mph. The faster you go, the faster the noise. The noise decreases once you get to about 55-65mph but is still there. Took it to the dealer and they told me they don't know what the problem is, but others in my similar situation have reported the same problem. They told me that they reported the problem to Honda engineers, but for now there is nothing they can do for me except to say that my file has been noted for future problems. My warranty expires at the end of 2003. I'm curious to know what Danoh found out at his appointment. Anyone else have this problem?

brknardo

4 cylinder with 5000 miles, car has been in to dealers twice. When starting on cold mornings the engine starts at 1800 RPM. If I take my foot off the brake the car will take off and hit 20MPH(reminds me of a older car with a carburetor that has a stuck choke). I think this is pretty dangerous. Dealer says everything is fine and all the cars do it, mine is just on the high side (sure).
Terrible rotten egg smell, dealer has stated that a fix is in the works (new catalytic converter). I hope so. If we sit at a stop light for any lenght of time we have to open windows as the odor finds it's way into the car.
Vibration from A/C is brutal, a passenger couldn't believe the amount of vibration. Dealer stated that's the way it is.
We also have the clunk at startup that several others had commented on. Mine started after they did the recall for the breather tube and the transmission reprogram.
I had a loaner accord and that car had the same problems as I mentioned in my message. I guess the Honda quality is not what the reputation would lead you to believe it should be.
The dealer made me feel like I was the first to make these complaints and that the majority were more or less my imagination and they could not find anything wrong(the messages posted here tell me differently). I was also surprise to see what was put on the formal work order and what they verbally told me was not the same. I may not be able to live with these problems on a day to day basis.
Anyone have any ideas or has your dealer fixed your problem?

atlantabenny

Seems the car was built to run well when running fast. At 30-40 mph, driver's window creaks (run channel replaced by dealer with no effect) and center console cover makes that soft knock. At idle, per brknardo's experience, noise & vibration are unusually high for today's 4 cylinder engines. Brake rotors have been resurfaced 2x, both before 16k miles.

Upsides: very smooth transmission and attractive interior. 4 cylinder has good passing power. Overall a smartly designed vehicle.

jmellenb

Yes, I asked about the fast idle as well. I find I have to ride the brake daily in a parking garage & don't feel it's safe. My dealer said it's computer controlled & that there's nothing they can do. I also find the "clunk" sound annoying, but not as much as the rattles in the dash & doors. When I mentioned the rattles at the dealer, I thought they did a good job of pretending I was the first person to ever mention them, but they didn't fix them.

pj23

If the idle at startup is too high, which causes you to ride the brakes and be concerned about your ability to stop, then why not let the car warm up a bit before driving off? Assuming that the dealer is correct and the idle cannot be adjusted, it would seem prudent to do this. Alternatively, blipping the throttle sometimes causes the idle speed to kick down.

However, I find it very hard to believe that the idle speed cannot be adjusted, so I guess I'd find another dealer.

tblazer503

if I idle for even a minute or so, the idle will generally drop from about 1600rpm to about 12-1300rpm. Most AT's that I have driven will want to surge forward when the engine is cold, Acura TL, Dodge Dakota, my old Chevy Trailblazer, etc.

plethysmo

Got my LX-V6 coupe in May and turned on the heater for the first time this morning only 1/2 mile from home. I do not idle at all before leaving. Car had been sitting overnight. There was already warm air and temp gage was not on C.
My previous vehicles needed 2 miles to get me any warm air and get the temp gage to register above C. How does the 03 Accord heat up so much faster?

philsmith76

brknardo, mentioned a Transmission Reprogram for the 03 Accord 4cyl. This is the first time I have heard of this. Can you please supply details? I have driven an another 03 Accord 4cyl EX just like mine but with a build date 8 months newer and it is much smoother shifting.

>>>Also had the rotors resurfaced 2 twice and then replaced. I am starting to feel the brakes pulse again! now with 10000miles. I think they have a cronic problem on the their hands.

jebinc1

All,
Check the torque on your lug nuts. If they all are not at 80 ftlbs, they will warp. I checked them on my 03 and 04 upon delivery and they were all different and way off. I promptly retorqued them all and have not had any pulsing problems on either car.

bburton3

Never ever let anyone use a air driven impact wrench to tighten lug nuts on wheels with disc brakes. If they say they are using torque sticks and these really work-no way Jose-I even take my own Snap on torque wrench to make certain they get the idea.

Once retorqued a badly overtorqued front wheel on an 80 accord I had and the most of the braking shimmy went away.

Fairly easy to change the rotors on the newer accords-but was a bear on the old ones-had to press them in as part of the wheel bearing assembly. If you ruin the wheel bearing "holder"-another part to replace.

Final rant-never ever let anyone turn a rotor that is not warped-some dealers-particularly BMW dealers say this is necessary-well maybe for their bank roll but don't let them do it.

bburton3

Yesterday started it briefly to reposition front tires-went out this AM and tried to start. The starter races at high speed-sounds like it is really flying. Thought maybe starter was not engaging but marked the AC and Alternator drive belts and they move when starter is engaged. Checked the movement of the points thinking maybe the valve timing belt had broken-points move so the timing belt is apparently intact.

Am about to pull the plugs, then turn over engine with large ratchet connected to the bolt on the pulley which is connected to the crankshaft.

Any ideas-sounds like no compression-engine has 160K on it. Maybe will squirt a bit of oil into each piston. But is not burning oil so compression should be ok.

thanks

tblazer503

"engine rotates but will not start"
Leaking fuel injectors, faulty fuel pump, pressure regulator, etc.(all part of fuel not reaching fuel rail)

Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or faulty coil

Broken, loose, or disconnected wiring at the starting circuit.

Ignition components damp or damaged.

the whole ignition circuit should be able to be checked with a spark plug checker.

Hopefully it's just some loose wires or something... hope thyis helps.

bburton3

Thanks for the suggestion Tblazer-should have known when I start this thing for just a couple of seconds, it has a bad habit of really flooding. Was time to replace plugs anyway-so when had plugs out-adjusted the valves-a couple of exhaust valves were a bit loose-maybe will quieten it down a bit now. Plugs had over 50K on them-it almost always fires in a second or so.

So now I know-don't start it for just a couple of seconds.

thanks again

safetyred

I have a 2000 Accord EX-V6 with a little over 47,000 miles on it. I bought the car new, back in November of '99. Have never had a single problem with it until a couple of weeks ago. I went to start the car in the morning, and it made a terrible noise, and from then on it sounded like a belt was loose. The noise was almost like a "whirring" noise. Well, I took it to be serviced at the local Honda dealer, and he said "I'm going to quote you a price", (he hadn't even looked at the car yet!), and he said "$327". And I said for a loose belt?? He said that it was the rear bearing in the alternator and that this happens in most 1999-2001 Accords with the V-6 engine. So they looked at it, and confirmed that it was the alternator. The guy said that he mainly sees this happen between 50,000 and 60,000 miles, and that mine was just a little early. Has anyone else had this happen to them? Just curious to see if this service guy was feeding me a line.....thanks.

sftroy

I've noticed a few posts regarding a similar issue to mine and I'm wondering who else has this problem and what their resolution with Honda is.

A whining sound is noticeable from either the transmission or the engine when I ease off the gas pedal at highway speeds (50 - 70MPH). The sound has been getting progressively worse over the past 6 weeks. My dealer first stated it was a wheel bearing, then it was the transmission, then the engine. My case manager at Honda America told me today that it was a "normal" noise from the transmission and that it has been reported in other '03 Accord V6's. They told me that there is no corrective action going to be taken to remedy the problem - of course I'm not settling with this lame answer. Anyone have success in getting this problem corrected with their Accord?? Any advise is greatly appreciated . . .

bburton3

If the bearing is going-you should be able to feel the thing vibrate and if you can get your mits on a stethescope-should be able to hear it. If you are a bit handy, can change it yourself. Buy the alternator on line from one of several honda parts places which are dealers selling over the net and install it yourself. Don't go the exchange route-in some areas there are rebuilders who rebuild-replace the bearings and do a good job. The exchange jobs can be really crappy.

One thing that will fry an alternator quick is too loose a belt-runs too slow and will burn it and also if someone overtightens a belt, will trash the bearings. Have had both problems. Yeah 47K is a problem.

plethysmo

I recommend taking to an independent transmission shop and asking for their analysis. I heard a whining noise on a vehicle right after service at an Aamco franchise. Took it back and they said not to worry about it. After 2000 miles the noise became much louder, because the "transfer gear" was now rubbing against the transmission case. I would have been much better if I had taken it to another shop and they could have properly tightened the transfer gear before the real damage began. Obviously, I don't recommend Aamco.

morphius909

Hello,

This is the first time I am posting to this particular forum. My other car is a 2000 Impala.

My wife owns a 2002 Accord Special Edition with the 4-cyl engine. We have encountered two problems:

1) Hesitiation upon take-off from start. Dealer could not replicate. Anyone else had this problem?

2)Sunroof squeeks and rattles. Dealer applied some "tape" to stop the problem, but neither the squeek nor rattle stopped. Any suggestions?

Any help is appreciated!

Jas

tblazer503

there is a main connector (should be about a 3pin) then loosen the belt, remove the mount bolt on top and bottom. should be a 45min job as long as it's not horrendously difficult.

The alternator should run you about 150-200 for a brand new one, and probably about 100 for a rebuilt one. Some rebuilt ones may come with a lifetime warranty, not sure now.

khager

bburton3

This same thing happened to me only once though after sitting for about a week, while on vacation. Has your car not been started in a while? Also read my post # 3897

jebinc1

I had an 03 and an 04 and the wipers (or inserts) would squeak, chatter and leave rubber on the windshield. This happened on both cars. Is this a common issue? I'm thinking the rubber in the blades is too soft. Didn't have the 03 long enough to fix but on the 04 I performed the following:

1. Wiped the windows clean with Lacquer thinner to remove clear coat residue and deposited wiper rubber
2. Cleaned glass with Bi-mami (sp?)
3. Washed car
4. Installed New (non Honda "exact-fit") blades from NAPA
5. Three coats of Rain-X

Now, I'm waiting for the Seattle rains to arrive.

I'd like to hear if others have had this problem, and if so, what was your fix (and did it work)?

tblazer503

I had that problem with mine.

Took it to Les Schwab... he did a look-see and a quick fix.

He noticed that the wiper itself(main body of the blade) was not parallel to the windshield. So he took a adjustable wrench(with a towel wrapped around the arm,) and tweaked the arm a little so that the wiper sat parallel, then tested, and no problem with skipping or chattering now.

never did have it leave rubber, though...

bburton3

Started mine the previous day for about 5 seconds-the FI was in choke mode and plugs had about 50K on them-flooded-it even coughed a couple of times when I started it with the new plugs.

Guess most people know-just do not push on accelerator at all when starting a FI vehicle. In the before auto choke carb days it was a dance between the accelerator, choke and starter button/pedal in winter to get those things started.

How old are your plugs-they will last for 100K but not a bad idea to replace at 50K.

bodble2

The sunroof rattle is a common problem -- we have it in both our 01 Acura CL-S and 02 Accord SE-V6. The only known cure is the tape treatment. It worked on the CL-S for about 1 year or so. Haven't had it done on the Accord yet (it's my wife's car and apparently she has this innate ability to tune out all noises:) )

ral2167

2001 accord coupe V6-- engine maintenance light came on today and stayed on...read manual.... took off gas cap and placed it back on-- making sure it clicked 3 or more times....light stayed on....

the TCS light came on as well at same time-- but it is now off....

any suggestion? i assume take it to someplace whose computer checks out hondas is the way to go... wonder what the cause is....

thanks for any help

tblazer503

on FI cars, you can push the pedal down(about 2") and hold it there for a few seconds while cranking to get it to catch... this should open the throttle valve more to aid in getting the engine started. I think it's in my manual

tblazer503

maintenance required, or the check engine?

unfortunately, if it is the check engine light, the only way to check that is to get an OBD-II reader, take it to a mechanic, or jumper the maintenance pins and get the readout manually. On a 94-98 Civic, there is a connector under the passenger side kick panel. Jump those two wires and turn ignition on. then the check engine light should start flashing a sequence. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, take it to a mechanic or spend the $100 to buy the reader, or see if you can rent it at the local auto store.

ral2167

it's the check engine light--

evidently there's a recall that i hope works....from reading on the internet-- evidently a common problem on V6 accords and oddyseys.... TB-99-085 from what i read on a forum elsewhere....

am hoping this won't cost me.. think i'll email my salesman.... let him know and see if he can help out here with the service.... am due for a new car in a few months... if he can't help, or won't, there may be a solara in my future....

mwcarlso

I have a 93 Accord EX with about 163,000 miles that has a low/rough idle problem. The car used to idle at around 700-800 rpm's (tach reading), but now it usually idles at around 500-600 rpm's. If I blip the gas pedal, the car will almost stall and then start idling rough at around 500 rpm's. The check engine light does not come on and the car seems to drive ok otherwise. I checked the throttle body and it looked pretty clean. Will there be trouble codes stored in the computer even if the CEL doesn't light up? I am assuming a sensor is failing. Thanks for any ideas.

tblazer503

the only thing it has is lack of power during acceleration/engine lacks power.

here are the things to check as this states it...
Clogged fuel filter(probably should be changed at least every 24k or so)
Vacuum leak
faulty Fuel injection system
timing off
emissions system clogged
air filter clogged

another thing to check out is a IAC(?) Idle air controller/computer. it controls the air flow during idle, I believe it is in the throttle body somewhere.

hope this helps some... it's not an accord manual, but most of these should still apply to both.

jebinc1

If you have a Schuck's auto parts store near you, they offer free OBDII testing. I just borrowed the unit and reset the light on another car. Took two minutes and no fees. Also on that vintage car you may be able to disconnect the negative battery cable to 10 minutes. This will reset the light also.

sftroy

My OO EX V6 Accord had the infamous noisy sunroof - the only thing I found to eliminate the noise was to clean the seal and the painted part that it fits into then apply Armor All to the seal. My dealer suggested that I use a silicon spray - this actually made the sound worse. Good luck.

sftroy

To the earlier post regarding the center console noise problem on the 03 Accord - have your dealer replace it!! My car was on a road test for another issue and the Tech heard the noise and ordered a warranty replacement. The new silver cover piece is different - it now has "Push" etched into it (like this is REALLY necessary!!!). I liked the early version better, but I'm happy the noise is gone.

After 12 months, I too have had to replace my rotors & the black molding around the windows (twice and quickly on the way to a third time). I have a transmission noise that Honda states is normal on the 03 V6's (whining upon decelaration at higher speeds) - it might be normal, but it isn't acceptable. If you have this problem - complain loudly (say hi to Pat at American Honda for me, I'm sure she has my phone number memorized by now) I'm getting a 3rd party to test the the tranny then I'm off to court or arbitration. Wish me luck . . .

snakehair

Mine has been replaced by the dealer (both the original and the new say "push". they had the car a total of a day and a half. No joy. the Honda Tech line has not come up with anything the dealer says they have already tried. Really annoying rattle over anything but dead smooth road surfaces at low speeds (<40 mph). Any one out there with a fix or suggestion? Maybe requesting the dealer try another (3rd) unit (??)

lelandhendrix

Someone had asked (I'm too lazy to scroll back) if the creaks and squeaks would sway purchasing decisions in retrospect. Not a chance.

Are there squeaks in my 03 LX Sedan built in 8/02? YES. However they are few and far between and do NOT change how much I truly love this car. They would not sway my buying decision, and have been remedied by my dealer. My other car (92 civic) had a much louder ride due to engine and road noise, and since this car is leaps and bounds quieter I think I a creak stands out much more.

The only one I have had linger is the drivers and driver's-rear window area as described in previous posts. They are nearly gone and I think that's partly due to the break in.

nowakj66

I have read on the boards about the 2003 Brake pulsing issue.

This is not exactly my issue but similar. For me, the first two or three brake applications on my 03 Accord induce a groan that tracks the rotation of the wheel. WHHNnnnnnn sort of sound.

After the third braking or so (before I leave my subdivision) the brakes do not make this noise. They did not used to do this.

I attributed it to the colder weather but perhaps there is something wrong.

Thoughts?

fugegirl

I only drive my '03 Accord EX a couple of times a week, but almost everytime I start I initially put it in drive I hear a pretty loud sound under the car. I also feel the vibration in the gas pedal. The sound is almost exactly like the sound of a manually adjusted seat being pushed into place. I took it to the dealership and they couldn't hear it. It doesn't happen every time, but almost. I also have the console rattle. I'll get that checked at my first service. I still have paper tags and shouldn't hear any rattles for heaven's sake. I also hear one in the steering column.

evenhorizon

i have a 2000 accord, auto. i feel its steering wheel is a bit heavy. wonder if it's adjustable or programmable to make it lighter(easier to turn).

sftroy

I would request another console. I was at the dealer again this morning (tranny issues, don't get me started) and a guy behind me had a 04 with the same problem. Sounds like they haven't fixed the problem completely. My new console works just like it should - I'm very happy with the replacement. Good luck.

03accordman

I have a 2003 Accord and the center console was changed due to the rubber mat warpage. I however liked the older one as it has a soft release door, compared to this one that open instantly. Your thoughts?

chucko3

Did it make the same groan even if you didn't apply the brake?
Also, do you see a round cut near the edge of the rotors?

1997montez34

I too sometimes have a "grinding" upon applying the brake for the first or second time. Also, I do have pulsation in the brakes when slowing down from highway speed. Has anyone been taken care of by Honda for these issues yet.

My console door buzzes over bumps as well...my dealer said there's nothing they can do.

Still, I love this car.

2003corolla

I too have a grinding sensation when I apply the brakes for the first or second time I use them. It then goes away. I wonder if there is some buildup causing this since it goes away?

sftroy

I liked the original center console and door better than the current version w/the "Push" lettering. The door was much smoother and easier opening - the current one sort of clunks when it opens.

sftroy

fugegirl - what I think you are describing is the ABS system resetting itself. The sound in my 03 coupe is a little louder than was in my 00 coupe and I too can feel it on the brake pedal. I'm fairly sure that it is mentioned in your owners manual or check with your dealer.

khager

Mine was flooded and it wouldn't start until I held the gas to the floor. Also it wouldn't get compression until I held it to the floor. Before that I tried to start it for 4 or 5 seconds at a time and only a whirring noise, I tried to start it about 8-10 time over a period of about 45 minutes. I never touched the gas during this time because I thought you didn't want to do that with a FI vehicle. I also kept smelling gas. I know the engine was turning over because I also marked the belts and noted thier location. After I held the gas to the floor it sounded different (normal) like it was getting compression and not turning over at 500+RPM, and then sure enough it started a little rough at first because it was flooded then it smoothed out. A neighbor told me this was common with Honda's that sat for a while at the impound yard when the owners would come to pick them up after sitting for several days or weeks, the same thing would happen but usually only honda's. I only have 17K on the vehicle.

hmurphy

I had the same problem on my 03 EX-V6. It happened on only the first few brake uses, but became increasingly frequent. My dealer replaced the pads and machined the rotors, and that fixed it. Later, however, my brakes began pulsating when used at high speeds, and the dealer replaced the pads again, plus all of the rotors.

I recommend that you call Honda Customer Relations before your dealer service visit. They can authorize whatever repairs are necessary, so you don't have to negotiate with the dealer. This is assuming that your car is within the brake warranty period.

sftroy

After several service visits, road tests and calls to American Honda, Honda Engineering determined that my 03's transmission has a "normal" whining sound upon decelaration and said that no corrective action would be taken. I picked up my car Wed evening and on my drive to work Thurs morning, my car failed to accelerate above 50 mph then suddenly downshifted when I took my foot off the accelerator. Needless to say, the guy behind me on the freeway got a shock when my car quickly decelerated without any warning or break lights coming on. I took the car back to the dealer and they determined that its time to replace the transmission - funny thing is that I was told 12 hours earlier my transmission was normal . . . frustrated but glad the work is FINALLY being done. (30K miles/12 months)

maxpower02

It could have been a lot worse. Anyway don't you love it when they say "that's normal". I have an early produced '03EXV6 Sedan that started having the popping sound when accelerating. I learned on this board that a weld had to be done to correct this. When I went in for service, the service tech said the popping was a "normal" brake sound.
I had to get the serv mgr involved, after a couple of visits, they finally admitted it needed to be welded to be repaired. I wish the service depts would stop this practice of trying to push obvious problems off as being a normal car function. I guess this works on a lot of owners who don't know any better. (Not us edmundites!!)

nowakj66

The brake groan only happens when brakes are in fact applied. And then only the first few applications of the brake.

My father suggested the following - there may be a glaze building up on the rotors. This is especially likely since my car has a Manual tranny and I do downshift to brake as well so the brakes are lightly use. His suggestion was to hard brake a few times to try to clear this glaze off.

chuck03 - I'll check and see if there is a line on the rotor. I do not think there is.