While the 03 Accord bodystyle isn't the best. It isn't the worst and is one of the safest cars on the road. Look at the 94-97's? The 90-93's look a lot better and have 2 inches more lenght in the wheelbase.
My son's 2003 V6 EX Accord Coupe is quiet and the body is so solid. I can feel it when I sit in the driver seat. The body is 26% stronger than the 02. It is quiet. The only thing I do not like is it runs a little bit choppier than my Sedan 02 V6 2002. Obviously, the 7th generation Accord is great. My Accord hybrid 2005 is eerily quiet and very strong, very responsive. The NAVI. is outstanding.
I bought a 2005 accord ex (4cyl) last week. It's a great car, except that when I opened the moon roof for ventilation the other day a creak and tapping in the roof began. It stopped when I closed the moon roof and interior slide/door. But, it began again after I opened it and now it happens whether it's open or closed. I plan to take it to the dealer this week. It's one of those irritating noises. Does anyone on the list have any suggestions re: the cause of the problem? Thanks
I bought my accoird approx, 3 months ago. I noticed some problems popping up since the weather started getting cold here in Long Island, NY.
The biggest problem I am having right now is starting the car up when it is cold out it takes anywhere from 5-15 seconds for the car to actually start, when I had my 2001 civic it would start up instantly. Does this seem right to anyone?
The second problem came up on thanksgiving this only happened once so I dont know what to think of it - I put the key in the ignition, I didnt turn it or anything - but all the windows rolled down?????????????
thirdly - My brake dont seem to want to stop when Im going very slow, exanple: when Im on a side street, coming to a stop sign - doing 10 mph, the car seems to keep going even with my foot jammed on the brake.
fourthly, the car has a problem defrosting, sometimes it works - sometimes it doesnt.
Does anyone else out there have these probnlems? Im really considering getting out of this lease, if I can! The car is going to honda this weekend, we'll see what they make of the situation.
I have a problem with my fuel gauge on my 03 LX-V4.The Fuel gauge don't work. Please let me know if any one having the same problem. The Dealer said I needed a FUEL SENDER UNIT.
Your cold starting concerns could be due to water in your fuel. Do you use gasline antifreeze regularly during the winter?
Your windows may have all rolled down if you were squeezing the Door Open button on your key for more than about three seconds. That is a built-in feature to let out summer heat before you enter your car.
Unless your braking problems had to do with water or ice on either the pads, disks or tires, I'd recommend having the dealer take a look under warranty.
Your defroster problems may have been due to your having kept the climate control system on Recirculate. That traps moist air inside your car. You should only use Recirculate for brief periods.
Your dealer is probably correct. Unless you have rung up over 36,000 miles, you are fully covered under Honda's warranty if you need a replacement unit.
Just returned from an 800 mile Holiday Trip with our 2003 4 Cylinder Accord. Cruised at 65 mph, no rattles or creaking. The entire car was very quiet, very powerful and the idle was smooth. This 4 cylinder has no trouble keeping up with V6 vehicles. It has plenty of reserve power for passing.
We have a 2002 Accord EX V-6 with 47000 miles on it. We just got rid of a 2001 Honda Civic EX 5-sp with 74000 miles on it. Between the two cars, I can answer some of the questions before asking a few of my own.
First, the fuel gauge. The Accord's gauge is always accurate. It leaves around 2 gallons in reserve when it hits empty. The Civic's gauge, however, was NEVER accurate. One roadtrip, I watched in horror as the car apparently guzzled through a 1/2 tank of gas in 90 miles...the next 1/2 of the tank took around 250 to deplete. That's an extreme example, but that gauge was prone to inaccuracy. The most common quirk was for the car to "misplace" a 1/4 or 1/8 tank of gas after being shut off. I'd shut the car off with that much gas & crank it later only to find that the needle refused to move off of the peg below E. I highly recommend resetting one of the trip odometers and learning how far the car can comfortably go on one tank of gas. It worked for me- I never ran out of gas (and only once came within 1 gallon of using an entire tank).
The Accord has been trouble-free, more so than the Civic ever was (it had teething problems). The front brakes are now worn at 47000 miles, and the tires went in the trash heap a few thousand miles ago. We replaced the tires with Yokohama Avid H4S. They're good tires- quiet, grippy, etc. Consider them a slightly sportier version of the Michelins that came with the car. They are not as good as the Bridgestone Potenza RE-950s that I put on the Civic. They're a good tire, don't get me wrong, and if you're looking for a slight improvement over the OEM Michelins for a lower price, then the Yokos are great. They are NOT sporty tires. Oh, one other problem: they are apparently difficult to balance. The Michelins never had that problem, but apparently the Yokos are already doing wonky stuff.
As for gas mileage, it's pretty much by the book. City mileage sits at around 20 mpg, while mixed driving nets around 24. On the open road, judicious use of the cruise control will net about 30 mpg.
Lastly the transmission. The tranny in the Accord is not the best. The car is exposed to extremely cold temperatures- single digits. In those cold temps, the car doesn't like upshifting. You can feel the acceleration taper off as the tranny shift gears, and it generally refuses to shift into overdrive even at 50 or 55 mph. So the car instead hums along at 2200 rpm or so until the car warms up. Even warmed, the car has a tendency to just kind of thunk into overdrive, and the upshifts are deliberate & noticeably blunt forward progress.
The car is going in soon for service- I will let everyone know about the transmission. Any comments?
Re: ---- "Transmission shifting problems when cold" ---On Cold Mornings, I let the engine warm up while I have a second cup of "flavored coffee". I accomplish two things with this behavior: ---1st, I get to enjoy a second cup of coffee, and 2nd, the transmission shifts without a problem. Let the car run for at least five,(5) minutes before you drive it down the road. Sometimes on very cold days I let it run for 10 minutes. (I know, some people on this board are going to accuse me of wasting fuel, but I do not have shifting problems in cold weather)!
I do not keep any mileage records. Whatever it is, it is! On this trip, I burned Sunoco, BP, and Exxon. Fuel was much cheaper outside of N.J.. I always make it a point to "fuel up" when the gauge reaches 1/2.
I've had my 2004 Accord EX for six months and drive it nearly every day. On the three occasions where it has sat for a day or two without being driven, it has not started without a jump. First time, Honda claimed it was the battery and replaced it. Second time, they tested and found no power drain and did no repair at all. It's now in for a third time and, again, they are saying they are finding no power drain. Anyone else had this problem?
I let my 2003 Accord V6 warm up for about a minute to allow the oil to circulate and then drive off gently. And the transmission shifts with no problems whatsover. The temp gauge is at the 1/4 mark within 1 - 1 1/2 miles and heat is already coming in. The engine is fully warmed up in less than 3 miles and the engine is operating at peak efficiency (for the weather conditions). I get a 10 minute head start on heavier traffic and I get to work 10 minutes earlier, where I relax and enjoy another delicious cup of coffee before I start working.
I had a 2000 EX V6 (same powertrain as your 2002) and I did the 1 minute warmup that I described above with that car as well. It shifted a bit more firmly when cold... that's by design, as the car's computer causes the transmission to shift at higher RPM when the engine is cold for more efficient warmup.
But I never experienced anything like you describe with the refusal to shift into overdrive or the thunk into overdrive, even when the engine was cold or warming up. Shifts were quite firm at any time... just the nature of the design.
At any rate, warm the car up whatever way you prefer, but it's absolutely NOT a requirement to let the car warm up by idling for 5 or 10 minutes to get proper transmission operation. The manufacturers design the cars to be driven when cold... the transmission may shift more firmly when cold, but it should provide the full range of design functions, including shifting into overdrive. Symptoms like you describe are not the result of the transmission being cold, since I never had such problems when my transmission was cold. I think your transmission is malfunctioning.
ive noticed that In cold weather, the fuel release latch on the floor near the drivers seat gets stuck when I push it down to release the fuel door...the fuel door has a really rough time opening too..I have to stick my key in there to get it open...Im not sure if this is due to the cold? Any suggestions?
I have a 1998 Honda Accord V6 Coupe and at 100,000 miles I am now having to purchase my SECOND transmission!!! I have had various accords since 1988, but will NEVER buy a Honda again! The transmission issue is a serious one. There is also the issue of the EGR valve being too small and having customers pay hundreds to buy an update kit for HONDA's design flaw!!!! Don't buy Honda, they have gone downhill!!!
It sounds like the cable connecting your inside fuel door release lever and your outside fuel door has become wet, and ice has formed in sufficient measure to cause your problem. Maybe you can squirt some lubricant into the tube carrying the cable (near the fuel door).
A couple of days drying out in a warm garage could help.
I bought my Accord EX coupe on Nov 1, 2004 and I am having the same problem. I am having a popping noise from the front columns that hold the windshield in place, and I am having problems with a rattling/buzzing noise coming from the rear window somewhere. I just got it back from the Dealership after 3 days and the PROBLEM STILL IS NOT FIXED. It is annoying, and for the money that you shell out for a Honda, you should not be hearing creaks and rattles from a new car.
You are correct! The V6 does have Transmission Issues, but there are people that will deny this fact, until it occurs in their Accord. As consumers, we have the right to expect a properly "field tested automobile" in exchange for our "hard earned dollars"! There is absolutely no excuse for this "lack of quality" in the V6 Honda Accord. Manufacturers today use the public to field test their automobiles. Just do a search on the "net", and you will find vehicles that have head gasket problems that go back to the late 90's; SUV's with ball joint, transmsiion and engine problems and intake manifolds that leak coolant into the engine's crankcase. QUESTION: ----Did we forget how to design and test vehicles? When a particular vehicle has the same issue for more than one model year, there is something wrong with the management of that company, or there is a lack of concern and / or respect for the consumer. I can remember my father purchasing a new 1951 Buick, and all he received was a 30 day warranty. He drove that car for 100,000 miles, and all he did was frequent oil and filter changes,(every 2,000 miles), tune - ups and normal maintenance. This Buick was a "stick shift", and at 60,000 miles he had the clutch replaced. Now we have vehicles with 3 year / 36,000 mile warranties & extended warranties, and we have major component failures in the first 36,000 miles. On board computers are not the issue. Mechanical components are the issue. There is no excuse for defective ball joints, bad head gaskets, poorly designed engines or defective steering systems. Yes, we as consumers get the products that we will accept!
I have a 97 Honda Accord SE with approx. 138,000 miles. I have not had any major problems in the past. Today my oil light began blinking. I immediately turned off the engine. I put in 1/2 qt of oil. I went to check the oil and the oil was then over by 1 qt. I had the oil drained at a local oil and lube b/c it was so late. While driving to the oil and lube, the light came on again! Does anyone have any idea as to what is going on or have a similar problem. Thanks!
What kind of oil change intervals have you been using? And what kind of driving do you do? Severe driving and 10,000 mile oil changes might have worn bearings.
A common cause is a faulty "oil sending unit" or "oil pressure switch," the oil pressure-sensitive device that screws into the engine block and turns the oil pressure light on when pressure's low or if it's defective; it's an $8.00 part at Autozone.
Less common is a failing oil pump, and least of all (with the engine making heavy knocking noises) are worn internal parts due to inadequate maintenance.
Park the car while you get a new oil pressure switch. If that doesn't fix it, it'd need an oil pump replacement or an engine rebuild. My guess is the pressure switch.
By all means, yes. The torque converter issue that affected some generation 6 (1998 - 2002) Accords was eliminated when the generation 7 Accord was introduced in 2003 with a new automatic transmission design. This applies to all generation 7 Accords, including the 2005 Accord EX V6.
I don't know, but I would hope that this problem would be solved! Honda is basically a quality product. My 2003 4 cylinder Accord is trouble free, and it performs properly. My wife has a 2004 Civic, and she loves this vehicle. Ask yourself this question. If the Remanufactured Transmission that Honda installs after the original unit fails solves the problem, why can't Honda make the same unit changes in the production of the "New Unit", so that future new vehicles will not have to go through this exchange process? To put it simply, if they know the cause of the problem, fix it in the production process! I think that this is a "simple concept". The only way to see if this problem has been solved is to search the "net". But Honda is not the only name plate that has issues. Look at some of the competition. It all comes down to proper field testing of the product. EXAMPLE: --- In the late 90's, OMC, (Outboard Marine Corporation), went out of business, because they put into production a new type of unit that was not properly field tested. After about four years of production, the company was purchased by a Canadian corp.. The product was redesigned, tested and placed back into production. It is once again a Very High Quality product with "State of the Art" Engineering. The name plate is Johnson & Evinrude Outboard Motors. Field testing is very important!
I have a 1998 Honda Accord V6 Coupe and at 100,000 miles I am now having to purchase my SECOND transmission!!! I have had various accords since 1988, but will NEVER buy a Honda again! The transmission issue is a serious one. There is also the issue of the EGR valve being too small and having customers pay hundreds to buy an update kit for HONDA's design flaw!!!! Don't buy Honda, they have gone downhill!!!
Honda has extended warranty on affected vehicles to 100,000 miles. Both transmission should have been covered under this extension. Did you approach the dealer with your tranny problems?
He may be able to make an issue about it, but the extended warranty applies only to 2000 and 2001 models. Honda should have extended it to all Accords of that generation, IMO.
Ive been having the same problems with my power steering fluids overflowing from the resevior. i was wondering if you have found the problem out yet. thanks
My drivers side and passenger side Sun visors on my 2000 Accord are flimsy, and wont hold their position - any way to tighten these things? Looks like a "normal" screw head holds this thing in place - and I tightened it to no use.
I have been having sqeaking and creaking issues with the front driver and passenger wheel wells of my 2001 accord for over a year now. When getting into or out of the car, there is a horrible creaking noise from the wheel well area. When I'm driving and hit a bump, there is a rubber on rubber kind of squeaking noise that comes from the wheel well area. Honda has replaced the front struts and has "lubed up" the suspension components several times and the problem still exists. They claim all the parts are fine, but I still have the same problem; the problem seems to be aggravated by cold winter weather. If anyone could give me any advice I would be forever grateful. Thanks in advance.
The display unit for the radio/CD/climate control/clock on my 2003 Accord is no longer visable. The radio, CD, heat, etc all work fine, but I can't see any of the settings on the display unit (the settings are faintly visable in bright sunlight). One dealer told me that the entire unit, which costs over $700, needs to be replaced. Another dealer told me that the unit could be repaired for a few hundred dollars, but I'd be without the radio for a couple of weeks. This repair does not fall under warranty because the car has more than 36,000 miles, even though it is less than 2 years old. The dealers seem to be familiar with this problem, leading me to think that it is commonplace. Has anyone heard of similar problems?
The noise you describe is often from the dry rubber bushings that attach the stabilizer bar to the underbody. The rubber gets stiffer when it's cold and squeaks even more.
It's not easy though to get a shot of WD-40 into the bushing without losening the bushing mount. However, as long as the car is sitting level, there shouldn't be any load on the stabilizer bars front or rear so you can loosen them and apply a small amount of lube.
This is so obvious and common though, it's hard to image your Honda service center not recognizing it. Perhaps your issue is something else then. Good luck.
Has anyone tried to install the ashtray & lighter accessorie that you can get at a Honda Dealer. ( for 05 Accord Coupe ) I've seen the instructions, and there is more to it than one would think. I'm not all thumbs, but then again, I don't want end up with a dash that I can't put back together.
While driving the other day I noticed under semi hard acceleration when above 4.5K RPMS, all dash lights (parking break, battery, doors, etc.) come on. I looked at the battery and noticed and large build up on the positive terminal. Any ideas on what is causing the lights to come on? Anyone else have this problem? Solutions? you can email me @ pbr115@psu.edu. Thanks!
I have seen some forum discussions about the V6 tranny issues. I just purchased a 2005 Accord Coupe EX with 3.0L V6. This was an upgrade from my 2003 EX Sedan 4 cyl. This is my 4th Accord, and I have never had an issue - until today. Rolled the Coupe out of the garage this morning to find a small (1/2 dollar size) puddle of tranny fluid on the floor. We've taken the vehicle back to the dealer for inspection and identification of the issue/resolution. I am very concerned and disappointed about this finding, 1.5 days after rolling it off the lot. In light of this, does anyone have any specifics of similar issues within such a short operational life. I would obviously classify this as an infant mortality issue, although I do not have any specifics yet as to the issue. Comments and input is appreciated.
i am working on 96 Honda accord and to change the rotor you have to rotate the plastic cap under the rotor clockwise. Then there is a notch that would align with the bottom of the rotor that will be diagonal to the small semi circle of metal that you see on the top. Now you need some "tool" to reach that screw to remove it. If you are able to remove it scuccessfully please let me know the tool you used. I am trying to reach it from the top.
I have a 91 accord with about 120K miles on it. No problems with it so far, aside from rusting in the wheel-wells (but hey, that's what Bondo is for, right?).
My question is; other than the basics (oil changes, tires, break pads etc..), are there any other things that I can do to prolong the life of my car? I try to start the car and let it run for a good 5minutes before I drive it anywhere. Anything else?
I live in Michigan, so I have to deal with cold, snow, salt etc...
Strange, I have the same car with most of the same problems along with a O2 sensor that cost over 400 to replace (4000 km past warranty) and a passanger heated seat that doesn't heat anymore.
Here is a great link for reading about people who have Honda and Acura high mileage stories. It gives you an idea of how long things might last and what kind of problems can happen. http://www.hondabeat.com/highmiles.php
If the timing belt has not been replaced, it's time to replace it.
What else?
Flush the radiator, drain & fill tranny fluid, change spark plugs, PCV valve, and air filter according to maintenance schedule. That's what I have been doing for my 89LXi after the last visit to Honda service for a major tune-up at 60K miles. I haven't replaced the dist. cap, rotor, and fuel filter since then. The car has 203K miles and still runs great.
Oh, used Bondo once for the left rear wheel-well. May have to do the right rear this summer.
Hello... I hope someone is online tonight who can answer this question. I am driving back from FL and the "check engine" light came on. Stopped at the next exit - when accelerating from a stop the car shifted very roughly w/trans slipping. D4 light starts flashing. Checked engine oil and trans fluid - both are OK. Now the trans will not shift out of 2nd gear and the D4 light continues to flash. Car has 71K miles and has had *zero* problems until now. Obviously the transmission is hosed. It is 25 miles to the nearest Honda dealer from here - I think/hope I can get there tomorrow morning even if I'm stuck in 2nd gear. Has anyone else experienced a similar problem and do you think I can get the car to limp home? (No, I don't have the computer fault code from the check engine light since it's Sunday night and everywhere is closed.)
I had the same problem with my 2003 Accord this past summer. From talking with the service manager, it sounded like he had seen a couple other cars with the same problem. The radio itself was replaced in my car--fortunately I was at 35k miles so it was under warranty. Just so you know, the radio unit is separate from the display that is seen in the dashboard--the radio and 2 brackets screw into the back of the display unit.
I would try calling Honda customer service and tell them that this should not happen with a 2 year old car, regardless of the mileage. They may (or may not) pay part of the cost. If not, there are/were a couple complete (radio+display) units on ebay for about $200 (if you do this, make sure they send you the radio theft-lock code). It is not that hard to replace the unit or have the dealer replace it. It takes about 1/2 to 1 hour.
I know of friends who have had a 91 accord with the same problem and it was the computer that needed to be replaced. The transmission had the same problem you are talking about so she had to drive it like a manual and shift the automatic from D1,D2, Etc. to get it to shift to a higher gear.
Comments
The biggest problem I am having right now is starting the car up when it is cold out it takes anywhere from 5-15 seconds for the car to actually start, when I had my 2001 civic it would start up instantly. Does this seem right to anyone?
The second problem came up on thanksgiving this only happened once so I dont know what to think of it - I put the key in the ignition, I didnt turn it or anything - but all the windows rolled down?????????????
thirdly - My brake dont seem to want to stop when Im going very slow, exanple: when Im on a side street, coming to a stop sign - doing 10 mph, the car seems to keep going even with my foot jammed on the brake.
fourthly, the car has a problem defrosting, sometimes it works - sometimes it doesnt.
Does anyone else out there have these probnlems? Im really considering getting out of this lease, if I can! The car is going to honda this weekend, we'll see what they make of the situation.
Your cold starting concerns could be due to water in your fuel. Do you use gasline antifreeze regularly during the winter?
Your windows may have all rolled down if you were squeezing the Door Open button on your key for more than about three seconds. That is a built-in feature to let out summer heat before you enter your car.
Unless your braking problems had to do with water or ice on either the pads, disks or tires, I'd recommend having the dealer take a look under warranty.
Your defroster problems may have been due to your having kept the climate control system on Recirculate. That traps moist air inside your car. You should only use Recirculate for brief periods.
All subjects are covered in your User's Manual.
Your dealer is probably correct. Unless you have rung up over 36,000 miles, you are fully covered under Honda's warranty if you need a replacement unit.
trip?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
First, the fuel gauge. The Accord's gauge is always accurate. It leaves around 2 gallons in reserve when it hits empty. The Civic's gauge, however, was NEVER accurate. One roadtrip, I watched in horror as the car apparently guzzled through a 1/2 tank of gas in 90 miles...the next 1/2 of the tank took around 250 to deplete. That's an extreme example, but that gauge was prone to inaccuracy. The most common quirk was for the car to "misplace" a 1/4 or 1/8 tank of gas after being shut off. I'd shut the car off with that much gas & crank it later only to find that the needle refused to move off of the peg below E. I highly recommend resetting one of the trip odometers and learning how far the car can comfortably go on one tank of gas. It worked for me- I never ran out of gas (and only once came within 1 gallon of using an entire tank).
The Accord has been trouble-free, more so than the Civic ever was (it had teething problems). The front brakes are now worn at 47000 miles, and the tires went in the trash heap a few thousand miles ago. We replaced the tires with Yokohama Avid H4S. They're good tires- quiet, grippy, etc. Consider them a slightly sportier version of the Michelins that came with the car. They are not as good as the Bridgestone Potenza RE-950s that I put on the Civic. They're a good tire, don't get me wrong, and if you're looking for a slight improvement over the OEM Michelins for a lower price, then the Yokos are great. They are NOT sporty tires. Oh, one other problem: they are apparently difficult to balance. The Michelins never had that problem, but apparently the Yokos are already doing wonky stuff.
As for gas mileage, it's pretty much by the book. City mileage sits at around 20 mpg, while mixed driving nets around 24. On the open road, judicious use of the cruise control will net about 30 mpg.
Lastly the transmission. The tranny in the Accord is not the best. The car is exposed to extremely cold temperatures- single digits. In those cold temps, the car doesn't like upshifting. You can feel the acceleration taper off as the tranny shift gears, and it generally refuses to shift into overdrive even at 50 or 55 mph. So the car instead hums along at 2200 rpm or so until the car warms up. Even warmed, the car has a tendency to just kind of thunk into overdrive, and the upshifts are deliberate & noticeably blunt forward progress.
The car is going in soon for service- I will let everyone know about the transmission. Any comments?
Different strokes for different folks.
But I never experienced anything like you describe with the refusal to shift into overdrive or the thunk into overdrive, even when the engine was cold or warming up. Shifts were quite firm at any time... just the nature of the design.
At any rate, warm the car up whatever way you prefer, but it's absolutely NOT a requirement to let the car warm up by idling for 5 or 10 minutes to get proper transmission operation. The manufacturers design the cars to be driven when cold... the transmission may shift more firmly when cold, but it should provide the full range of design functions, including shifting into overdrive. Symptoms like you describe are not the result of the transmission being cold, since I never had such problems when my transmission was cold. I think your transmission is malfunctioning.
ive noticed that In cold weather, the fuel release latch on the floor near the drivers seat gets stuck when I push it down to release the fuel door...the fuel door has a really rough time opening too..I have to stick my key in there to get it open...Im not sure if this is due to the cold? Any suggestions?
Thanks!
It sounds like the cable connecting your inside fuel door release lever and your outside fuel door has become wet, and ice has formed in sufficient measure to cause your problem. Maybe you can squirt some lubricant into the tube carrying the cable (near the fuel door).
A couple of days drying out in a warm garage could help.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Less common is a failing oil pump, and least of all (with the engine making heavy knocking noises) are worn internal parts due to inadequate maintenance.
Park the car while you get a new oil pressure switch. If that doesn't fix it, it'd need an oil pump replacement or an engine rebuild. My guess is the pressure switch.
Thanks
Honda has extended warranty on affected vehicles to 100,000 miles. Both transmission should have been covered under this extension. Did you approach the dealer with your tranny problems?
Help??
Thanks!
-Jonathan
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1- &item=7944085753&category=38640
I've seen units that work with the auto-climate system (displaying driver and pass. temperature) go for less than $200.00.
CD Player malfunction. It was replaced but then the heated seat button wouldn't work. 5 trips to the dealer and still not working.
Window regulator replaced, but then the door panel squeaks. Drivers door.
ABS lights came on due to brake line coming loose under the floor. It is held in with a plastic clip.
Long crank times to start. Seems to have
disappeared.
Malformed window trim rubber. Replaced.
Outside temperature not reading properly. Replaced sensor unit.
Driver side power seat track was noisy. It was replaced due to a bend in the track.
Blown tire on highway. Michelin MXV4. This was apparently my fault.
Brakes worn out at 50,000km (Canadian car)
It's not easy though to get a shot of WD-40 into the bushing without losening the bushing mount. However, as long as the car is sitting level, there shouldn't be any load on the stabilizer bars front or rear so you can loosen them and apply a small amount of lube.
This is so obvious and common though, it's hard to image your Honda service center not recognizing it. Perhaps your issue is something else then. Good luck.
My question is; other than the basics (oil changes, tires, break pads etc..), are there any other things that I can do to prolong the life of my car? I try to start the car and let it run for a good 5minutes before I drive it anywhere. Anything else?
I live in Michigan, so I have to deal with cold, snow, salt etc...
What else?
Flush the radiator, drain & fill tranny fluid, change spark plugs, PCV valve, and air filter according to maintenance schedule. That's what I have been doing for my 89LXi after the last visit to Honda service for a major tune-up at 60K miles. I haven't replaced the dist. cap, rotor, and fuel filter since then. The car has 203K miles and still runs great.
Oh, used Bondo once for the left rear wheel-well. May have to do the right rear this summer.
I had the same problem with my 2003 Accord this past summer. From talking with the service manager, it sounded like he had seen a couple other cars with the same problem. The radio itself was replaced in my car--fortunately I was at 35k miles so it was under warranty. Just so you know, the radio unit is separate from the display that is seen in the dashboard--the radio and 2 brackets screw into the back of the display unit.
I would try calling Honda customer service and tell them that this should not happen with a 2 year old car, regardless of the mileage. They may (or may not) pay part of the cost. If not, there are/were a couple complete (radio+display) units on ebay for about $200 (if you do this, make sure they send you the radio theft-lock code). It is not that hard to replace the unit or have the dealer replace it. It takes about 1/2 to 1 hour.
Good luck.