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Comments
The biggest problem I am having right now is starting the car up when it is cold out it takes anywhere from 5-15 seconds for the car to actually start, when I had my 2001 civic it would start up instantly. Does this seem right to anyone?
The second problem came up on thanksgiving this only happened once so I dont know what to think of it - I put the key in the ignition, I didnt turn it or anything - but all the windows rolled down?????????????
thirdly - My brake dont seem to want to stop when Im going very slow, exanple: when Im on a side street, coming to a stop sign - doing 10 mph, the car seems to keep going even with my foot jammed on the brake.
fourthly, the car has a problem defrosting, sometimes it works - sometimes it doesnt.
Does anyone else out there have these probnlems? Im really considering getting out of this lease, if I can! The car is going to honda this weekend, we'll see what they make of the situation.
Your cold starting concerns could be due to water in your fuel. Do you use gasline antifreeze regularly during the winter?
Your windows may have all rolled down if you were squeezing the Door Open button on your key for more than about three seconds. That is a built-in feature to let out summer heat before you enter your car.
Unless your braking problems had to do with water or ice on either the pads, disks or tires, I'd recommend having the dealer take a look under warranty.
Your defroster problems may have been due to your having kept the climate control system on Recirculate. That traps moist air inside your car. You should only use Recirculate for brief periods.
All subjects are covered in your User's Manual.
Your dealer is probably correct. Unless you have rung up over 36,000 miles, you are fully covered under Honda's warranty if you need a replacement unit.
trip?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
First, the fuel gauge. The Accord's gauge is always accurate. It leaves around 2 gallons in reserve when it hits empty. The Civic's gauge, however, was NEVER accurate. One roadtrip, I watched in horror as the car apparently guzzled through a 1/2 tank of gas in 90 miles...the next 1/2 of the tank took around 250 to deplete. That's an extreme example, but that gauge was prone to inaccuracy. The most common quirk was for the car to "misplace" a 1/4 or 1/8 tank of gas after being shut off. I'd shut the car off with that much gas & crank it later only to find that the needle refused to move off of the peg below E. I highly recommend resetting one of the trip odometers and learning how far the car can comfortably go on one tank of gas. It worked for me- I never ran out of gas (and only once came within 1 gallon of using an entire tank).
The Accord has been trouble-free, more so than the Civic ever was (it had teething problems). The front brakes are now worn at 47000 miles, and the tires went in the trash heap a few thousand miles ago. We replaced the tires with Yokohama Avid H4S. They're good tires- quiet, grippy, etc. Consider them a slightly sportier version of the Michelins that came with the car. They are not as good as the Bridgestone Potenza RE-950s that I put on the Civic. They're a good tire, don't get me wrong, and if you're looking for a slight improvement over the OEM Michelins for a lower price, then the Yokos are great. They are NOT sporty tires. Oh, one other problem: they are apparently difficult to balance. The Michelins never had that problem, but apparently the Yokos are already doing wonky stuff.
As for gas mileage, it's pretty much by the book. City mileage sits at around 20 mpg, while mixed driving nets around 24. On the open road, judicious use of the cruise control will net about 30 mpg.
Lastly the transmission. The tranny in the Accord is not the best. The car is exposed to extremely cold temperatures- single digits. In those cold temps, the car doesn't like upshifting. You can feel the acceleration taper off as the tranny shift gears, and it generally refuses to shift into overdrive even at 50 or 55 mph. So the car instead hums along at 2200 rpm or so until the car warms up. Even warmed, the car has a tendency to just kind of thunk into overdrive, and the upshifts are deliberate & noticeably blunt forward progress.
The car is going in soon for service- I will let everyone know about the transmission. Any comments?
Different strokes for different folks.
But I never experienced anything like you describe with the refusal to shift into overdrive or the thunk into overdrive, even when the engine was cold or warming up. Shifts were quite firm at any time... just the nature of the design.
At any rate, warm the car up whatever way you prefer, but it's absolutely NOT a requirement to let the car warm up by idling for 5 or 10 minutes to get proper transmission operation. The manufacturers design the cars to be driven when cold... the transmission may shift more firmly when cold, but it should provide the full range of design functions, including shifting into overdrive. Symptoms like you describe are not the result of the transmission being cold, since I never had such problems when my transmission was cold. I think your transmission is malfunctioning.
ive noticed that In cold weather, the fuel release latch on the floor near the drivers seat gets stuck when I push it down to release the fuel door...the fuel door has a really rough time opening too..I have to stick my key in there to get it open...Im not sure if this is due to the cold? Any suggestions?
Thanks!
It sounds like the cable connecting your inside fuel door release lever and your outside fuel door has become wet, and ice has formed in sufficient measure to cause your problem. Maybe you can squirt some lubricant into the tube carrying the cable (near the fuel door).
A couple of days drying out in a warm garage could help.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Less common is a failing oil pump, and least of all (with the engine making heavy knocking noises) are worn internal parts due to inadequate maintenance.
Park the car while you get a new oil pressure switch. If that doesn't fix it, it'd need an oil pump replacement or an engine rebuild. My guess is the pressure switch.
Thanks
Honda has extended warranty on affected vehicles to 100,000 miles. Both transmission should have been covered under this extension. Did you approach the dealer with your tranny problems?
Help??
Thanks!
-Jonathan
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1- &item=7944085753&category=38640
I've seen units that work with the auto-climate system (displaying driver and pass. temperature) go for less than $200.00.
CD Player malfunction. It was replaced but then the heated seat button wouldn't work. 5 trips to the dealer and still not working.
Window regulator replaced, but then the door panel squeaks. Drivers door.
ABS lights came on due to brake line coming loose under the floor. It is held in with a plastic clip.
Long crank times to start. Seems to have
disappeared.
Malformed window trim rubber. Replaced.
Outside temperature not reading properly. Replaced sensor unit.
Driver side power seat track was noisy. It was replaced due to a bend in the track.
Blown tire on highway. Michelin MXV4. This was apparently my fault.
Brakes worn out at 50,000km (Canadian car)
It's not easy though to get a shot of WD-40 into the bushing without losening the bushing mount. However, as long as the car is sitting level, there shouldn't be any load on the stabilizer bars front or rear so you can loosen them and apply a small amount of lube.
This is so obvious and common though, it's hard to image your Honda service center not recognizing it. Perhaps your issue is something else then. Good luck.
My question is; other than the basics (oil changes, tires, break pads etc..), are there any other things that I can do to prolong the life of my car? I try to start the car and let it run for a good 5minutes before I drive it anywhere. Anything else?
I live in Michigan, so I have to deal with cold, snow, salt etc...
What else?
Flush the radiator, drain & fill tranny fluid, change spark plugs, PCV valve, and air filter according to maintenance schedule. That's what I have been doing for my 89LXi after the last visit to Honda service for a major tune-up at 60K miles. I haven't replaced the dist. cap, rotor, and fuel filter since then. The car has 203K miles and still runs great.
Oh, used Bondo once for the left rear wheel-well. May have to do the right rear this summer.
I had the same problem with my 2003 Accord this past summer. From talking with the service manager, it sounded like he had seen a couple other cars with the same problem. The radio itself was replaced in my car--fortunately I was at 35k miles so it was under warranty. Just so you know, the radio unit is separate from the display that is seen in the dashboard--the radio and 2 brackets screw into the back of the display unit.
I would try calling Honda customer service and tell them that this should not happen with a 2 year old car, regardless of the mileage. They may (or may not) pay part of the cost. If not, there are/were a couple complete (radio+display) units on ebay for about $200 (if you do this, make sure they send you the radio theft-lock code). It is not that hard to replace the unit or have the dealer replace it. It takes about 1/2 to 1 hour.
Good luck.