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1) All dash lights on, sudden headlight dimming: something happened to the alternator belt, alternator pulley, alternator itself, or all of those parts
2) Transmission noise: most probably the broken alternator belt hitting something, or the pulley had seized and the unbroken belt forced it to turn
I'm almost sure your problem involves the alternator components. The fix may be as low as $15 for the belt or pulley only or up to $250 (with labor) for an alternator replacement.
Honda alternators are quite durable, so it's probably just the belt and pulley replacement.
I have a 1997 Subaru Outback. If you go to the Ultimate Subaru Forum, you'll find all kinds of people complaining about head gasket problems. Sound s like a Yugo-grade reliability problem.
It appears that no more than 20% of those cars - and usually only with over 100,000 miles - ever has the problem. It's still a top-rated car for reliability. But the forums amplify the prbolems.
Look on the Camry forums for problems with transmission hesitation and faulty intermediate steering shafts. Not even Honda and Toyota are perfect.
Drive slowly around the block for a final check of abnormal noises/conditions before proceeding to the shop. Don't use any battery-draining accessories like the a/c, lights, radio, etc. during the drive; probably the best time to do this is during the slow daytime hours of 10-12/2-4.
Your direction is much appreciated. I will drive the Accord to Honda dealer tomorrow morning. wish me be luck!
Thanks
I started hearing the clicking noises today in the same place on the dash (driver's side) on my new '05 EX V6. It seems to be especially noticable going over bumps at freeway speeds. The car is only a few days old. Any luck in finding a cure? Have the dealers been helpful?
1. All instrument backlights have gone when exterior lights are switched on. All instruments & warning lights work OK. I believe it's something to do with the rheostat built into the instrument cluster. Auto trans quadrant light is gone as well. Clock & Climate Control backlights work but goes out as soon as exterior lights are switched on.
2. Front tyres wear out on inner edge. 2 new front tyres replaced in February 2004 & wheel alignment checked but still the problem prevails.
3. Annoying electronic buzz/chirping noise from fuse box area on driver's side end of instrument panel in the footwell area behind the coin tray/drawer. This is intermittent but annoying when it happens.
Apart from above & the inaccurate fuel gauge reported in countless forums, the car is great!
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
This past summer, I bought a four-wheel alignment from a local shop that I'd heard good things about. Afterward, I was shocked when they handed me a computer printout listing the spec ranges as well as all the before and after measurements on each of the four wheels. That's a first!
I'll never get another alignment done without first explaining that I want a printout as above for my records. You'll know then what you had, what you got done, and you'll have something to compare to next time. Perhaps this is common practice but it was a first for me.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My car was jumping from about 3000-1000RPM and then back again while in Park. Shifting to Drive stopped the idling problem. I replaced the Fast Idle Valve and the issue went away. Other possibilities I found while online include:
check the vacuum lines looking for a vacuum leak
check and clean the EGR valve
check the MAP sensor
check the fuel injectors
clean the IAP sensor
clean the throttle body
PVC valve
change the ECM module
Not sure how plausible some of those are, but at least they give you some ideas. I would attack the idle air control valve or fast idle valve first. Hope that helps.
Besides the speed sensing indicator, a converter may not lockup for any of the following reasons:
1. Engine temperature too cold - most converters will not lockup until the coolant reaches about 120°F.
2. Overdrive unit locked out - when an automatic overdrive is "locked-out" the torque converter lockup feature will also be locked out. Overdrive lockout would normally only be used when pulling heavy loads, thus the converter is logically "locked out."
3. Under low engine vacuum, heavy part-throttle acceleration is an additional power demand which could result in the engine lugging. To prevent engine lugging, which could result in serious engine damage, a sensor determines if low manifold vacuum exists.
Typical lockup converters connect these sensors in a series creating a "string" arrangement. That is, if one sensor gives a "no" signal then the converter will not lockup.
As for some first hand information, I was only getting overdrive when the weather was warm (70 degrees F plus). In cold weather (most definitely single digits) I had no overdrive. I changed the thermostat, of course also having to drain and fill the coolant (use only distilled water to dilute the coolant-prevents buildup from impurities in common water) and now I have overdrive all the time.
If the car thinks the coolant is too cold you are not going to get overdrive. Also, everyone check your coolant levels. Two friends have noticed less or no heat in their cars and they were both incredibly low on coolant. With winter here, it's a good time to make sure you have enough.
Hope that helps anyone with similar problems.
However, I have had incessant squeaks and rattles from the passenger door and all six pillars (the A,B, and C columns holding up the roof). Most of these have been traced to the way they designed the side curtain airbag system. In one instance, the shield behind the gas canister was banging into the canister and making a metal washer rattling noise. In another, I finally took the passenger door inside panel off myself and insulating every friggin' wire exposed to metal with foam padding, only to find that the lock mechanism by the rod that actuated the door lock was itself rattling (nothing to do but live with that one). Every time I solve one rattle, I find another one. Its the most frustrating aspect of my experience with this car which, for the most part (other than a lot of freeplay in the cheap [non-permissible content removed] plastic shifter with no rods or linkage adjustments that Honda used on V-6 EX 6spd. in '04) I'm really happy with.
Keep on your dealer to fix this stuff - ask him if you can take a service tech for a ride to show him the noise. I didn't pin down the airbag canister shield thing until I bounced a mechanic around White Plains city streets for about 10 minutes.
Good luck!
-FS
-FS
Check the viscosity of the oil. If it drips fast like water, its too thin and needs changing. If it happens again, you need to find the source of the thinning substance (coolant leaking into crankcase possibly).
No problems here with the coin holder. I just use it for the occasional toothpick since much of the eastern seaboard of the USA uses electronic toll collection. I see that you live in Ontario, so that wouldn't apply. I can't remember the last time that I used a coin at a tollbooth.
You'd be putting up posts on the side of buildings like the rest of us too.
-FS
The car stalls each winter...last winter, I replaced the alternator and battery. This winter, I replaced the cables, terminals, and battery. The car STILL STALLS!
It has had a recent tune-up, radiator flush, regular oil changes, and the general works.
Why do I keep losing power? Before, the car just wouldn't start up in cold weather, but now it is starting to stall randomly each day. I still have power (can operate my window and headlights), but I am unable to restart the engine with out a jump.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Also, is it likely that I'm going to end up having to get the part from Honda themselves? I've read that parts one gets at a store like AutoZone don't always work.
Thanks in advance.
I threw on some penetrating oil because... why not, but I don't see how it will even find space to work itself in.
Please advise. Thanks
Still, in either case, without removing the head you're taking a big chance on damage that debris could cause. Good luck.
Any idea how long those plugs were in there?!?!?
PS: I ran across the following doing a google for your problem (see especially #3 and #6):
Spark Plug Replacement Tips . . .
"1. Always allow an engine to cool down before removing spark plugs from aluminum cylinder heads.
2. Always gently blow sand and other debris away from spark plugs before removal. And don’t forget those safety glasses!
3. If the spark plug is difficult to turn or is seized in the cylinder head, try tightening the spark plug, then loosening it 1/8-turn while soaking the threads with penetrating fluid.
4. Holding the spark plug in an appropriate length of fuel hose will help prevent contaminating the insulator with grease or other conductive substances.
5. Using a length of fuel hose to start the spark plug in the cylinder head will also help prevent cross threading.
6. Many spark plug manufacturers don’t recommend using anti-seize compounds on spark plug threads. 7. If you prefer using anti-seize compound, apply it to the threads sparingly with a small, soft brush.
8. If the spark plug won’t seat correctly, a special spark plug thread chaser may be used to remove hardened carbon from the cylinder head threads and spark plug seat.
9. Under-torquing spark plugs will cause carbon to accumulate in the threads, making future removal difficult.
10. Over-torquing spark plugs can damage the spark plug internally and ruin the threads in the cylinder head.
11. A light coating of silicone dielectric compound inside the spark plug boot will expedite future removal of the spark plug wires."
Try PB Blaster as the penetrating oil. Supposed to work wonders. There's a thread on a VW forum where this stuff saved the day with a 25 minute soak.
Here's a bit from a Volvo forum:
"Removing Spark Plugs. The spark plug socket used to install plugs is sized 13/16 inch. A swiveling u-joint and three inch extension is also needed. [Query:] One plug is stuck and cannot be removed. How do I get it out? [Response: Steve McChesney] Penetrating oil. [Brickboard penetrating oil preferences: PB Blaster, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, in order of effectiveness.] Soak the area, and run the engine. Let the engine cool off, and soak it again before you go to bed at night. Do this again and again and again. 30 or 40 times over the next few weeks would not be excessive. No need to have the stuff dripping all over, just use a little bit at a time. It's likely that the temperature cycling and vibration of the engine, with gradual penetration of the oil, will loosen the corrosion of the threads. The stuff is magic, but only if you have plenty of faith and patience. [Response: Don Foster] I recently changed plugs on daughter's VW. One plug was dead tight, and when it finally broke free I was sure the aluminum threads were coming with it. Kroil didn't help. I first ran the engine for 15-20 minutes to get it good 'n hot -- aluminum expands at twice the rate of iron. The resistant plug backed right out without damaging the aluminum. [Response: HTH] Soak liberally with KROIL, PB Blaster, or your favorite serious penetrant (don't even think about Liquid Wrench). Start engine, run about 3-5 minutes. CAREFULLY check the temp by putting your hand on the exhaust manifold to feel the heat. You want to stop the engine just as the head is warming up. Hopefully, if you get it just right, the head will have warmed up but the plug will not be at normal operating temp and the hole will be a little bigger than the plug. At least that's what I theorized and it worked for me."
From the same forum on Anti-Seize Compounds:
"Tightening, Torque and Anti-Seize Compounds:
[From AC Delco] Do not use any type of anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. Doing this will decrease the amount of friction between the threads. The result of the lowered friction is that when the spark plug is torqued to the proper specification, the spark plug is turned too far into the cylinder head. This increases the likelihood of pulling or stripping the threads in the cylinder head. Over-tightening of a spark plug can cause stretching of the spark plug shell and could allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal.
[From NGK] Torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark plug installation. Torque directly affects the spark plugs' ability to transfer heat out of the combustion chamber. A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated on the cylinder head, hence heat transfer will be slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion chamber temperatures to unsafe levels, and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine damage is not far behind. An over-torqued spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the Metal Shell which in turn can distort the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark plug's insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above mentioned conditions can occur. The spark plug holes must always be cleaned prior to installation, otherwise you may be torquing against dirt or debris and the spark plug may actually end up under-torqued, even though your torque wrench says otherwise. Of course, you should only install spark plugs in a cool engine, because metal expands when it’s hot and installation may prove difficult. [From Denso] If threads are lubricated, the torque value should be reduced by approximately 1/2 to avoid over-tightening.
[Tip from Underhood Service Magazine] One vehicle manufacturer warns against using antiseize because antiseize acts like a lubricant and may allow the plugs to be overtightened, which can damage the threads. If you do use antiseize on the threads, their advice is to reduce the tightening torque on the plugs 40%.
[Tip from Autolite] We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Antiseize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If antiseize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition. Antiseize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing. However, plug seizure is aggravated further when steel plugs are installed into aluminum cylinder heads for a long period of time. You may want to consider the periodic inspection of the plugs to reduce the likelihood of plug seizure during extended plug service intervals. "
Taking off the head is something I would really rather not do. It looks like an immense pain according to service manual. I'm going to try and rig up a screen that I can slip past the barrel to catch the debris (which I'm hoping will be minimal anyway). Depends how much clearance I have.
Thanks also to altair for the help. I ran across some of the same web info you did. Thanks again. I called around a few places just after it happened and they basically said the surest way was to pull the head and remove it. A trusted (but distant) mechanic said the best way was to pull the head to protect the cylinder, but he said it was probably worth a try to extract it considering my situation. He also agreed about the easy out.
Thanks for the anti-seize info also. Seems like it will just be a torque wrench next time around.
I'm waiting on the penetrating oil and on finding the right tools. I'll post back when it's done just in case anyone is curious.
My condolences and please post back with your final solution. Definitely a tough situation!
Secondly, the front tires constantly spray the lower body panels with dirt resulting in a nice detailing job having to be redone on a regular basis. I have front splash guards but they do not do a good job as they do not project out from the wheelwell to catch the dirt or water.
Any suggestions would be welcome
1. the battery charging system was not working;
2. the battery was in bad condition, which caused the lost of alternator.
As suggested, we have the alternator and battery replaced (total cost about C$670 including tax), the car is okay now and thanks god there is nothing wrong with transmission. What i can't understand is how the bad battery could break the alternator down? Also there is a consequent problem now with the audio system as the battery has been replaced with new one. Since the previous owner lost the audio code so we don't have it then the dealer couldn't call back the audio system unless we purchase a new code (a extra cost). Today called the dealer which sold the accord originally and was told normally they don't save the code for customers. i just wonder if we can find this code back at any place inside the car. Any advise will be APPRECIATED!
1) Look for a reference code sticker (not the radio code itself, btw) stuck inside your glovebox or under the fusebox cover in the engine compartment. Call your dealer and give them the code with your VIN, and they should provide the radio code free.
2) If above doesn't apply, remove the radio using instructions from
http://www.handa-accessories.com/accelect01.html and get the radio's serial and reference #s from the label. Call a dealer and provide those numbers, including presumably your VIN.
3) If 1 and 2 are duds, shell out $25.00 to this site to get your code: http://hondaunlockcodes.homestead.com/
About the battery breaking the alternator, this is possible but not probable unless a grossly underrated battery was installed previously so as to overwork the alternator.
It's probably more a defective alternator that had been taxing the battery, making you replace both.
Just make sure this time that the right (meaning, with the correct amperage rating) battery was installed.