Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

highroller

I've read that with higher mileage cars, using A/C may cause driving to be a little bit uncomfortable at times, esp. when slowing down, idling, or pushing the pedal to accelerate.

rhaeffele

You'll need to explain that a little more, highroller. I can't grasp any association between driving discomfort when slowing down, idling, or accelerating and A/C use. I've had A/C on every car I've owned over the last 44 years, keeping each well in excess of 250,000 miles. (Is that high enough mileage?) Residing on the outskirts of the Mojave desert, I'd have certainly been much more uncomfortable without A/C in summer heat!

alnero

Hello, I've got the above car, it's got automatic trans. AC, and electric everything. I've been having problems with it starting at times, and the "S" light blinks, when it blinks, it won't start, and I've taken the spark plug wires out to see if I'm even getting spark, and it doesn't. I replaced the ignighter today cause a mechanic at the dealership said that was the problem, and that didn't help, a friend of mine has the same year acura, and was having similar problems, and said the "Ignition Module" under the dash, above the gas pedal was what fixed his, and a tell-tale sign was if when you turn the key it SHOULD make a click sound, I tried this, and it seems to be the truth, but I'm not sure if I'm looking at the right part, if it's really the ignition module, or what, the thing that gives me second thoughts, is that the "Click" I hear seems to be coming from the other side..... any thoughts?

Thanks in advance
Alnero

joon

I have an '05 EX cloth with about 4,500 miles and the driver's seat started to make a noise that sounds like springs from an old mattress being squeezed. It happens when I drive the car around a curve or when the car is stopping. I don't think the seat moves or is loose, so it doesn't appear to be a safety issue. But it sure is annoying. Even when the car is stopped, if I move around on my seat, it makes the same noise. Have anyone else experienced something similar? I plan to talk to my service manager when I take my car in for the 5,000 mile oil change, but any help from this forum would be really appreciated.

tranti

Hi ! Allan;
I bought a Honda Accord 2002, certified with 35800 kmiles in Jun 05. After 3months, I noticed that Power steering fluid was leaked ( just a few drops on my garage floor). I did not feel that my car was misaligned. I took it to the the dealer. They said that my car needs rod and pinion to be replaced. The part is $475.00 ( saw on paper). I don't know how much was the labor. It is still in warranty, So; I did not pay anything.

tranti

Hi! alumiu90;
I bought a certified 2002 Honda Accord with 35800 k miles with automatic tranmission. When I placed the car in reverse, it sounded " clank". I replaced the tranmission fluid with fluid from dealer. It went away.

snglhondagrl

Hi,
I'm a 22yo female and recent college grad, and my 94 Honda Accord AT is giving me so many problems. First off it was flooded in my apartment complex and the water went up to the top of the hubcaps. I had to replace both the engine and tranny computers on the passenger floor side. I changed the tranny fluid quite frequently since water was in it, and a month and a half later my tranny started acted up. When it was in drive (D4) it would not accelerate but yet acted like it was in neutral or something. Pretty soon it wouldn't move at all in D4, D3 or anything, although I was giving it gas (it just kept reving high like it coudn't switch gears). I had to get it towed because I didn't trust driving it. Oh and a few days after the computers were changed I noticed that my car would hesitate to move when I gave it gas (it would rev up) after it was at a stoplight. But anyway I bought another tranny but it was a used 96 (the guy told me that it was the the same for a 94 and 95), but after that tranny was put in and I drove it home, the speedometer doesn't work, the D4 light blinks, the check engine light is on, and it doesn't go into 4th or 5th gear (it clicks when I speed up and the RPMs go up). I found this out after I left the shop on a Saturday so I couldn't go back to ask the mechanic. I'm scheduled to go back on Monday to get the piece that controls the speedometer. The mechanic actually warned me that the piece for the 96 Accord didn't match, so until I come back to get it put it the D4 light is going to flash and the speedometer won't work. Do I have a bad tranny or the wrong tranny? Or is this piece causing all of the problems? Please help.

Christine

mamamia2

I love my old '95 Accord, the first to come out with a V6 engine. Though it's 10 years old, it has only 76K and it rides beautifully. Well, compared to my new '05 Accord V6, yes, the transmission in the old car is quite a bit jerky...

BUT: The ONLY significant problem I have had with this car, in the 6 years I've owned it, is ABS-related.

Exactly 4 years ago, with 60K on the Odometer, the ABS Module went dead. Cost me $1,200 to replace it. 3 months ago one of the rear speed sensors went bad, cost me $300 to replace.

Now the ABS light comes on again few seconds after I start driving, and stays on (though couple days ago it didn't show up for one ride...). The reservoir is full, not leaking. And, btw, I never noticed any "griding" noises mentioned here before...

The dealeship claims it's the Acumulator Module, and wants some $1,500 to repalce it... So these modules are supposed to last only 4 years??? This is NUTS.

The customer service agent who gave me the printed test results, was a bit surprised NOT to see any ERROR CODE NUMBERS on the sheet. And for whatever reason -- they did NOT charge me for testing the car... I tend to suspect that the same sensor they repalced 3 months ago -- is actually the culprit, and they KNOW it... Can't trust no one...

What's the story with the ABS on this model? Is this normal?

bobst

Mamma, why even fix the ABS? The car must stop OK without it. If you drive carefully, as we always did in our cars that did not have ABS, you should be alright.

viet

Hello Sad BigMama:

I have an EX Accord 95 I4 without any problems until I replaced the engine at almost 200K miles. At the time I bought this Accord I4 I liked to save some thousand bucks over the V6. Now all my other 4 Accord are V6 EX including a 05 Accord hybrid and enjoy it very much. The ABS on my little oldie 95 EX is so fine, no issue so far. Good luck BigMama.

rcc8179

The driver's seat in my 2003 Accord EX makes similar creaking noises. It did it first around 10-12k miles (when all sorts of other noises started popping up, but that is another rant). At that time, if I raised the seat slightly (I used to drive with it all the way down), it went away. I thought that something must be rubbing together.

Then at about 50k miles, the noise reappeared, and it started doing it regardless of the position of the seat. I haven't figured out what the problem is, so I can't be of much assistance. If you find out the source of the noise, I would appreciate hearing what it is.

mamamia2

Well, I'm a big believer of ABS. I'd never buy any car without ABS.

Had several incidents where ABS saved me frm a crash, especially in the winter.

The first Camry I leased had no ABS, which was very uneasy for me, especially one time (again, during winter time) when it caused me to lose control and slid into a ditch...

But then for $1,500 I'd rather forget about the ABS. It's just that my 16 yrs old daughter is the one to inherit the car...

jjv99

I'm wondering if you were able to solve the problem you were experiencing with your accord. I started experiencing the same problem with my 95' Accord. I tried bleeding the system but didn't solve the problem however I felt some small improvement. After 1 week of bleeding the system the prob. is getting worst. Now is not only spongy but as you, is going all the way down (braking is getting too dangerous now). I tried bleeding the system again today but after the car warmed up the problem showed up again. I'm planning to change the master cylinder this week but I would like to know if you were able to solve your problem and what exactly you have done. Thx.

brandoni01

i have a 95 accord and I had the same problem.It is definately your master cylinder. Mechanics cannot tell if your master cylinder is leaking, but trust me that is what it is.

jcbl

I own a Honda Accord EX-V6 (2005) and its almost a year now and I just discovered this really annoying creak in my left rear window. Whenever I open the window about halfway and stop it starts to creak, and the noise doesn't stop. But if I go up, and stop halfway it does not creak. Did anyone experience this problem? I'm going to go to the dealer this weekened, and ask them to check it out. The noise is getting worse everyday.

Also, I noticed my rear left door is misaligned. Its jetting out a bit. (about half a centimetre or a little less)

Oh yea...I noticed my tires are brown and I try to wash them with soup and it just gets browner. Is there any good tire wash? I live in Canada...any product that sells in Canada thats good?

locksmith69

I have a 1994 honda accord lx and just yesterday all of a sudden all of my dash gauges and power windows stopped working. If there is anyone who can help me with this that would be extremely appreciated.

thanks

user777

i'd examine the relevant fuses and pull and re-seat the relays.

bdyment

Hmmm as per your last sentence--it is no wonder your tires keep getting browner, you are washing them with "soup". What kind of Campbells are you using? Tomato, vegetable or chicken noodle? Just curious.

whitecloud1

I didn't see what year your car is, but when I had a similar issue it turned out to be
a damaged radiator with my '98 4cyl. Accord. Everything seemed to be running fine too, except I had been experiencing cooling problems for about two weeks before I rushed it to the shop. No engine damage, car still running fine and not burning oil.

eagle21

Hi Tien:

Thanks for the reply. Well, you lucked out because your car was still under the manufacturer's warranty. Whereas my car is at 60K+ so the dealer told me that I would have to foot the whole bill. The part is $700.00 on cost not including labor!!! So, I had to find another way to replace the part. But, I would like to hear others who may have this problem. I hear that usually you don't replace this part until maybe 100K??? But, I hope you had both sides inspected because you never know. With all the potholes in the cities generally, it is easy to damage this part. Maybe it is well worth to look at SUV's...hahahahaha. (Higher clearance).

haefr

" I just discovered this really annoying creak in my left rear window."

Sounds like the window is loose in its channel. For the tires, three items: 1/4 cup of powder laundry detergent in two cups of hot water, a stiff bristle brush, and lots of elbow grease.

sooner_chot

I own a 2000 4 DR EX w/ 68,000 miles on it. My horn does not work sometimes. I have had 2 mechanics look at it, and of course, no problems. Any ideas??

haefr

Intermittant problems are nasty to track down. Maybe the problem's not with the horn(s) so much as the switch contacts in the steering wheel pad or the horn relay . . .

sja66

1990 Accord DX
Wondering the location of the fuel relay sensor?

sooner_chot

You may be on to something there, as everytime I engage the alarm the horn works fine. Any ideas as to what I should ask the mechanic to look for??

buratski05

I have a 2003 Honda Accord EX 4cylinder. I can already hear squeeking sound when i apply the brakes in less than a year after i bought it. The Service Dept personnel at the dealership told me its NORMAL especially during cold weather and just after i start the car. But i can still squeeking sound even when weather or engine is hot and been driving for more than 30minutes. Now that i just reached my 36k /36 months warranty, the service advisor at the dealerhip told me that the rear brakes is already at 10% wear remaining and the front at 50% wear and it would cost me $200 bucks to have it done JUST for the rear brakes.
Did anybody here experienced the same brake problem that i have?
Did the Service advisor from the dealership tricked me that my brakes were OK eventhough it has a problem making noise and they just dont want to fix it for free since it was still under warranty then and waited for my warranty to expire before telling me?
Is the $200 bucks they are charging is fair just to fix the rear brakes?

mamamia2

Breakes are NOT covered by your warrantee, since it's a normal wear and tear item.

The squeeking sound can be a signal of your brakes getting worn out (which can be easilly checked) or just nothing... Many brakes squeek with no real reason. Washing them with a hose can sometimes help...

As much as I read here, and know from my own experience, it's better to service your brake at an independent shop and ask for CERAMIC BRAKES. They last much longer. Honda (for whatever reason) does not use Ceramic brakes, and that's why they wear out so much faster.

What I don't understand is, how come you REAR brakes are worn out so much more than your FRONT... Usually it's the opposit (unless you already replaced your front pads in the past).

Again, check it with an independent reputable mechanic.

freespirit108

The transmission starts to whine, although very faint,at 40 mph. The high pitch whine gets louder between 50 and 55 mph but disappears above 55 mph. The same noise appears when shifting down from 55+ mph. I took the car to the dealer and they said it is normal gear change noise. Should I have gear change noise between 50 - 55 mph and is it normal ?

haefr

Brake pads and shoes are considered consumable "normal wear items". (They have to wear. They're bringing over a ton of mass to a dead stop everytime you brake for an old lady in a crosswalk!) I would be very surprised to learn that Honda covers brake pads or shoes beyond the first year or 12,000 miles as part of the bumper-to-bumper warranty. Check your warranty for exclusions - if I'm right, brake pads or shoes will be listed. $200.00 does seem excessive (But, what isn't when it's performed by a car dealer's service department?). Check around at tire shops, Midas, etc. I think you can do better. I am troubled by your claim that only 10% of the rear pads (or shoes) remain, but, 50% of the front pads. Are you certain you didn't get the numbers reversed? The front brakes are intentionally biased to do most of the braking to avoid the rear wheels locking up and swapping the car end-for-end on slippery surfaces. If the rear brakes lock, the now stationary rear tires actually exhibit less adhesion than the rotating, braking front tires.

bioman

"Honda (for whatever reason) does not use Ceramic brakes, and that's why they wear out so much faster."
This is not the case. Honda DOES use ceramic brake pads. Check out: Http://www.automotivedigest.com/WhitePapers/Akebono_Ceramic_Friction_Tech.pdf.

Is it normal for the rear pads to wear out before the front, definitely not. If they are, there is probably a problem with the braking system. The car should be brought in to a shop that specializes in barking problems and has a good success record. This is probably not most Midas or some Honda dealerships. Not that you can't find some of the aforementioned doing good work, but if it is an unusual problem you may need a mechanic that is a good problem solver.

whitecloud1

I was really suprised that my rear brakes wore out B4 the front on my '98 Accord Coupe. They did though.
I've read here that the thickness of the pads on the rear is less than the front. It was the first time I had the experience in the many cars I've owned.

amitra123

Hi:
I have a 1992 accord LX/5speed. The car vibrates when I stop at the traffic light or start the a/c. The idle rpm of the engine drops to 400-500. It would be great if someone can let me know how to increase the idle rpm of the engine.
Thanks in advance
Mitra

mrbill1957

I've been following this forum for a while, and the rear pads wearing out before the front has been a common complaint.

The front pads and rear pads are different sizes. One possibility could be that different suppliers were used for the front and rear pads. It is possible that one manufacturers pads wear faster then the others, causing the unusual rears wearing faster then the fronts.

Another possibility is there is a design defect in the brake system itself.
Unless the dealer/Honda has a solution, which I have not seen any posted here yet (TSB), I would shop around and see what other shops would charge to replace the pads.

Assuming the rotors are OK, replacing just the pads is usually an easy job. $50-$70 should buy good aftermarket ceramic pads, and i would think 45 min should be enough time to replace them.

Some of the larger brake shops like to machine the rotors and replace the calipers every time they do a brake job, which drive the costs up. They may offer a good warranty, but to cover themselves, they want to replace/machine everything. If the car was older, rotors are scored, and the calipers are original, then they may need replacing, but if the only problem is the pads, then make sure that they are just replacing them, and not doing everything else.

Mrbill

bioman

After sending out my previous post I got to thinking about the problem of rear brakes wearing out before fronts. The laws of physics tell us if you are going to design a braking system inertia should be factored in to the equation. So, front brakes should carry a heavier load when stopping a car moving forward. I checked the records on my daughters 95 Integra GSR. I found out that I had replaced the rear brake pads (August 2001- 40,770 miles) BEFORE I replaces the front pads (October 2003- 60,301 miles). The car has run perfectly since it was purchased new, so I never gave it a second thought. I know that the Interra is essentially a Civic and we are talking about Accords, but maybe there is something about the design of the Honda braking systems that goes against the traditional. In most other cars it has been my experience, if there are no problems, that you get about 2x the mileage out of the rear pads as you would from the front.

user777

one datum point, my '02 accord needed new front pads at 30 something K miles but not my rear brakes. isn't it generally true at least that a vehicle transfers weight to the front during the act of braking, and is already forward-weight biased anyway, do therefore one concludes the vehicle does most of its breaking at the front, and not the rear, so the fronts should be expected to wear earlier than the rears.

haefr

That's always been the conventional wisdom. But reports persist on these forums about Hondas wearing their rear pads prematurely for some reason. (Presumably, the owners who report premature rear pad wear aren't driving around in reverse . . .)

imidazol97

The fronts indeed must have the greatest braking ability because of greater weight load and weight shift. But compare the area of the pads on the back rotors. If they are smaller area and are thinner in depth, they may wear out sooner. It's possible in light braking the rears carry more of the brake load than typical of FWD cars and that's helping wear them sooner. That actually might be good. I have had 3 sets of pads on my fronts with lots of wear left on the rear drum brakes at 150 Kmiles.

mnunez1

I have a 92 LX Accord, and the oil warning ligth is blinking, I have replace the oil sensor switch, the oil pump and everything appears to work fine, has pressure and is full, can anyone help on this issue and how to solve it, thanks

rdandoodle

Ive seen quite a few postings about transmission probs. I have a 2000 accord EX w approx50k miles on it and apparently i need a new transmission. I was somewhat surprrised by this because I dont push my car at all and bought it brand new(contradicts the repetuation of the reliable honda). I was wondering if anybody had any suggestions to persuade honda to cover this expense as i see other people have been successful. Thx
RD

rdandoodle

what was your exact prob as I now have a transmission prob that requires a new transmission on a 4yr old car...please advise
thanks
RD

mrbill1957

You may want to connect a mechanical oil pressure gauge (bypass all electrical components) instead of the idiot light system to see just how much pressure you have.

You still may have low oil pressure even though you have replaced the pump.

If the engine has considerable bearing wear, the oil can leak out around the bearings faster then the pump can handle. If the engine "rattles" alot when you first start it up in the morning, it would be another sign of worn rod/main bearings.

Mrbill

jmaxe

At about 40 mph while slowing down the car downshifts hard and slows so much it feels like I'm in low gear. Just lasts for a second or two and then smooths out. Any ideas?

carvalhog

hi i am having the same problem . i was wondering what did you decide to do and did it work. i am thinking the same way to get rid of the sports shift mode. or some way just disconnect it. this is my only car. so i am in desperate need to fix it.

atlantabenny

Honda of America has supposedly extended the factory warranty on MY2000 and up automatic trannies to 100k miles. Go to Honda Owner's Link https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/login.asp to confirm.

I would show the dealer a print of the owner's link advisory to ease the process.

Good luck.

rbevz67

...have ceramic pads up front, not sure about the back but they should too

akshah

All 2000 and 2001 Accords, Odyssey and Preludes have had their warranty on transmission extended to 100K or 7 years whichever comes first by the manufacturer. You should be covered on this. Good luck

gibber

My 2004 Accord driver's side seat is wearing out on the door side bolster, even though it has only 40,000 miles. I'm pretty sure extended warranties don't cover this. How can something like a tear in the grain be repaired? The quality of the leather(or vinyl) is pretty poor in my opinion. Its a good car in most ways, and reliable, but I really expected better from Honda here. If a cheap interior was OK, I'd just buy GM for a lot less. From what I've seen on this board, its a pretty frequent problem.

whitecloud1

I'm not sure. Maybe someone can tell both of us, but I don't think that the side bolsters are leather. I know that doesn't fix your issue but maybe there are low cost ways to fix the vinyl and you won't be so disappointed.

scats

i have 2 12 volt plug ins in my veh am i able to plug in a cell phone charger in them

sparky7

I have a similar problem on the 2005 EX V6 with leather seats.I really have not pin pointed it down yet.I can,t really determine if it is the air bag holder.Mine only happens when I hit hard bumps.I have only 800 miles and it is annoying.