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I was able to carefully remove the top of the carb off and clean it out. That helped in my situation. Now, it may not be unrelated to your problem, but I thought I'd mention it.
Mrbill
Sammy Castagna
You simply have to do some experiments, especially with those power seats which can give you some 64,000 combinations (...). I think my problem was having the front of the seat set to high (while the back of the seat to low) or, in other words, the ANGLE of the seat itself was too high and needed to be lowered.
Yes, I also agree, the Lumbar support is too high on your back, and actually may CAUSE you pain.
Don't give up... Keep adjusting and testing.
Here's one trick you can try but BE CAREFUL. Switch two plug wires so that the car backfires when you try to start it -- LEAVE THE AIR CLEANER ON!!!! Do this a few times, then put the plug wires back on properly, then pour some STRONG carb cleaner in the tank AND the carb itself (while car is running, be careful, have fire extinguisher hand) and then drive the hell out of it. See what happens.
The question is, is it worth it... less than $1,000 for a coverage of 8 years/100,000miles seems like a good deal to me, no?
I think it is a waste of money with Honda's relability, but that is just my opinion. I didn't buy an extended warranty. And by the way there is a whole thread on extended warranties , pricing, etc. if you want to discuss and find more information
Good Luck,
MidCow
Or do you refer to a specific BOARD that deals with purchasing extended warranty.
In general, having also a 1995 Accord V6, I have a feeling that it doesn't take much to have a repair that can easilly go over $1,000... 4 years ago I had to replace my ABS module for $1,200 (I wrote about it here lately)...
The question is, what kind of (common?) problems can my Accord have in future years that would be cosly but NOT covered by Honda's extended warranty...
Certainly I wouldn't think of buying anything but Honda's own extended warranty, btw.
Also, I noticed that the passenger floor is wet. Water is dripping from the upper left side (on passenger side) where the plastic from the center panel (CD holder) and the floor meet. I'm guessing that water from the AC is not draining properly. I've read one other post that describes my problem exactly. I am concerned because that post and similar ones state that replacing or unclogging the air conditioning drain did not solve the problem.
I have a 2004 Accord EX V6 w/Nav. Any thoughts before I call the dealer? Thanks.
cars were affected in N. America. They didn't pay for the work (out of warr) but they did pay for the rental car. Good luck.
Even if your car is supposedly not affected, they may need to know so that yours can be added to the list.
My guess is that I should keep everything turned off until I have the problem fixed. Do you agree.
There is a specific board on extended warranties:
civicgirl05, "Honda Extended Warranties: Pricing and Info" #540, 20 Aug 2005 2:43 pm!make=Honda&model=Accord&ed_makeindex=.ef0eeb7
This is a link to the last current message in the "Honda Extended Warrnaties: Pricing and Info" thread.
Specifically, if you are thinking about getting one, look very, very carefully at what is covered and what is excluded.
MidCow
You notice he said to have a fire extinguisher handy, but even so this is very,very dangerous because carb cleaner is very flamable and you could easily end up burning up you engine, your car and seriously injuring yourself.
I would be very careful about trying to solve your carburetor problem as suggested
MidCow
It's interesting how, every few months, these seat related posts re-appear. In this case, the owner actually took the expensive step of having the seat modified. Of course it was to no avail. The problem, which is never addressed (because there is no practical solution) stems from the design of seat's steel frame. The upholsterer has few options with such a seat, as over-padding will alter its appearance and cause problems when restoring the cover. There is also the problem of the side airbag. Any major changes to the seat could restrict this function and endanger the driver. [There is an additional steel frame, on the left side of the driver's seat (opposite configuration on the passenger side) to protect this device in a crash. Support for this includes a vertical steel post that can cause the vertical left side bolster to feel very stiff. The steel frame under the left side horizontal bolster can cause hip pain.] Most likely, the seat is designed for safety first and then comfort. This compensation results in a serious comfort problem for a some drivers.
Then , there are always follow-up posts about "giving the seat time to break in". It is naive to suggest that the problem will abate with time as wear will probably make sitting on a steel frame even more uncomfortable.
Ad tighten the carburator base nuts (gently) and check for vacuum leaks.
It wouldn't be "a warrantable service" if a clogged drain is due to a leaf, pine needle or other similar accumulation.
I talked to Honda this morning (they answer the phone REAL QUICK, I must say), and when asking about it, they said that just as you can shop around for a car --- so should you do when purchasing the Honda Extended Warranty. Purchasing the warranty from a Honda dealership in one state is OK to be used in any other state...
The only limitation for purchasing this extended warranty is 6,000 miles. Beyond that my car would not be eligible for Honda's extended warranty as a NEW car, but as a USED car, which will be more expensive, naturally.
How long you think the pads will last considering I do close to 500 miles per week highway driving ?
P.S. In my last car ( 99 Alero), the rotors warped @ 30k miles !!!!
Thank you in advance for your time. :confuse:
Of course there is... Just plain good old LOGIC....
Why would ANY insurance compay take the same chance with a new car as with a used car???
Why would YOU prefer to purchase a newer car with,say, 5,000 miles rather than a car with 50,000 mles? How about 150,000 miles?...
Allan
I was told by one company that if my mileage exceeded 30K
the company rep. would need to inspect the vehicle but the price would still be less and if mileage was under the 30K, it would be no more than the New car warranty. Logically, there is no reason to charge more. The insurance company is taking the same chance regardless.
Recently while I am driving - accelerating or not - the engine cuts off with no notice - no "weird" sound - just cuts off.
Lights are on - I can steer & brake - tank full of gas.
After I sit a while on the side of the road & try a few times - the engine will eventually turn over after a few feudal attempts. (all dash board lights - check engine, oil etc illuminate)
What do you think it could be?
Fuel pump? Distributor?
I know I'll have to take it in - but curious what you experts think.
Thank You So Much!
Mrbill
I have had pads last 100k miles, as I do alot of highway driving also. I would have the pads inspected the next time your in for service just to be sure, or if your willing, look at them yourself. It isn't that hard to do.
Mrbill
Give them the time they need, and they will fix it.
Mrbill
And I have sprayed a LOT of carb cleaner down a lot of carbs and I have never had a problem.
Well, I took it into the dealer. They checked the A/C drain tube and nothing was stuck. (They attached a vacuum and nothing came out.) I had a towel jamed up in the area on the passenger side floor where water was leaking so the service people knew where the leak was. Their guess is that the clog worked itself out.
They also sealed some areas toward the intake vents just in case water was getting in from the outside (don't think this was the case because water was only getting in through the floor area). As for the noises, they say it is likely the water interfering with the AC fan.
Things seem to be working fine now. After I park the car, I look under the car to see if water's draining properly. It is. This was all covered under warranty.
I've had the tensioner go early on a previous car, and worn, noisy brake pads on my 03 Accord, that had mechanics scratching their heads. It was good to know they were not serious problems, but as car owners we don't like any noise either.
I'd let the dealer do the brake experiment as another elimination step.
We had a 1985 Accord with a carburetor. I bought the repair manual and tried to understand how the darn thing worked. I recall I discovered that if I plugged up one of the little hoses, the car ran much better when it was cold, and I was very proud I figured that out.
To meet the ever-stringent emissions standards, carbs became much more complex in the 80's. They ran pretty lean to reduce emissions. If they got a little out of adjustment, they were too lean, and would then run very poorly.
I guess you choices are:
1) Find a competent repairman.
2) Fool around with it yourself to improve it.
3) Accept it as it is.
4) Get a new car.