Buck, I also have an 88 Accord with a carb. One thing I have found with carbs is over time, and even with a fuel filter, some sediment does make it into the carb. What can happen especially if the car sat a while and the gas evaporated in the carb, the sediment can collect and create bigger chunks. When that happens, they will float around in the carb, and when they reach one of the jets, they can block it off.
I was able to carefully remove the top of the carb off and clean it out. That helped in my situation. Now, it may not be unrelated to your problem, but I thought I'd mention it.
I know the warranty was extended for some accords because I just got mine replaced a few months ago. It was a 2000 EX V6. Did not cost a dime. I got a letter from Honda telling me the warranty had been extended to 7 years 70000 miles. But was about two years after I bought the car. I know it was before the warranty ran out. It only had 35000 when I had the transmission replaced.
I have a lower back problem for years now. I also had some pain when first driving the new Accord for a long (an hour) drive, but I THINK (haven't gone for another 1-hour drive yet) I fixed it by ADJUSTING the seat...
You simply have to do some experiments, especially with those power seats which can give you some 64,000 combinations (...). I think my problem was having the front of the seat set to high (while the back of the seat to low) or, in other words, the ANGLE of the seat itself was too high and needed to be lowered.
Yes, I also agree, the Lumbar support is too high on your back, and actually may CAUSE you pain.
They are HARD to rebuild, because the passages in those Japanese carbs are very very tiny.
Here's one trick you can try but BE CAREFUL. Switch two plug wires so that the car backfires when you try to start it -- LEAVE THE AIR CLEANER ON!!!! Do this a few times, then put the plug wires back on properly, then pour some STRONG carb cleaner in the tank AND the carb itself (while car is running, be careful, have fire extinguisher hand) and then drive the hell out of it. See what happens.
I think it is a waste of money with Honda's relability, but that is just my opinion. I didn't buy an extended warranty. And by the way there is a whole thread on extended warranties , pricing, etc. if you want to discuss and find more information
Cowboy, do you refer to people posting a message about extended warranty here? I did a search and all I find (well, I spent no more than a few minutes) are related to mostly TRANSMISSION related recall and extended warranty...
Or do you refer to a specific BOARD that deals with purchasing extended warranty.
In general, having also a 1995 Accord V6, I have a feeling that it doesn't take much to have a repair that can easilly go over $1,000... 4 years ago I had to replace my ABS module for $1,200 (I wrote about it here lately)...
The question is, what kind of (common?) problems can my Accord have in future years that would be cosly but NOT covered by Honda's extended warranty...
Certainly I wouldn't think of buying anything but Honda's own extended warranty, btw.
Buy the warranty if this gives you comfort. I have a 99 Accord Lx V6 with 63,500 miles and did all my own maintennance. Over 6 years of ownership, I only had to replace the driver side power window unit(done by a mechanic). No transmission issues. I just bought a used 05 Accord Ex 4 cyl and did not buy the warranty. I know this car will give me 5 - 7 years of reliable service before I replace it. Thank you to all those who answered my question about the oil change an keyless entry.
I have a strange noise that seems to come out of my vents (especially when the defrost is on) only when I turn left. I also seem to hear a water sloshing sound. It's strange but the noise doesn't happen when I turn right and it doesn't happen when I turn all my fans off. The sound is less when the AC is running and very noticeable when my defrost is on. The squealing noise reminds me of an AC belt noise.
Also, I noticed that the passenger floor is wet. Water is dripping from the upper left side (on passenger side) where the plastic from the center panel (CD holder) and the floor meet. I'm guessing that water from the AC is not draining properly. I've read one other post that describes my problem exactly. I am concerned because that post and similar ones state that replacing or unclogging the air conditioning drain did not solve the problem.
I have a 2004 Accord EX V6 w/Nav. Any thoughts before I call the dealer? Thanks.
a wager it is a blocked or crimped drain line. your dealer will be able to fix it. i presume that people who had the compressed air blown up into the line which didn't fix the problem either had the other end of the hose disconnected from the pan, or a crimping problem. you're under warranty. don't hesitate to have it repaired.
My experience has been that ownerlink may not be enough. Honda usually is so specific about cars and the VIN, that you may require person to person over the phone contact to find out about a particular problem they're addressing with your vehicle. I had a clutch issue with a '98 Accord. It took a month to get the part, (salvage part worked only two weeks) and Customer Service knew just how many cars were affected in N. America. They didn't pay for the work (out of warr) but they did pay for the rental car. Good luck. Even if your car is supposedly not affected, they may need to know so that yours can be added to the list.
Thanks for the message. I've schedule service for tomorrow. I agree that this is a warrantable service. Hopefully the dealer will agree and not give me any problems.
My guess is that I should keep everything turned off until I have the problem fixed. Do you agree.
HOST Mr. Shiftright said: "pour some STRONG carb cleaner in the tank AND the carb itself (while car is running, be careful, have fire extinguisher hand) and then drive the hell out of it. See what happens. "
You notice he said to have a fire extinguisher handy, but even so this is very,very dangerous because carb cleaner is very flamable and you could easily end up burning up you engine, your car and seriously injuring yourself.
I would be very careful about trying to solve your carburetor problem as suggested
yes, i'd keep the AC off. you can be pretty sure it's the AC drain tube blocked if you look under the front of the car with the engine and AC running, but there's no or very little water dripping to the pavement. no worries.
Just curious how you were able to obtain the "Goodwill new replacement fee" and how much you were out of pocket? I contacted Honda Customer Service and opened a case, but until I actually take my car to a Honda Service Dealer, they will not act. I had my car diagnosed by a friend that owns his own shop & he was able to tell me right off the bat that it was the "LCD" and it may possibly be repaired or they might have to replace the entire radio. Do you suggest on going ahead & taking my car to honda or going to a car audio specialist??? I own a 2003 Honda Accord LX w/ approx. 52,000 mi. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thank You...
"I had a professionally installed lumbar support and extra foam added to the seat, but the problem is only marginally improved. We wish we hadn't bought the car based on this problem alone."
It's interesting how, every few months, these seat related posts re-appear. In this case, the owner actually took the expensive step of having the seat modified. Of course it was to no avail. The problem, which is never addressed (because there is no practical solution) stems from the design of seat's steel frame. The upholsterer has few options with such a seat, as over-padding will alter its appearance and cause problems when restoring the cover. There is also the problem of the side airbag. Any major changes to the seat could restrict this function and endanger the driver. [There is an additional steel frame, on the left side of the driver's seat (opposite configuration on the passenger side) to protect this device in a crash. Support for this includes a vertical steel post that can cause the vertical left side bolster to feel very stiff. The steel frame under the left side horizontal bolster can cause hip pain.] Most likely, the seat is designed for safety first and then comfort. This compensation results in a serious comfort problem for a some drivers.
Then , there are always follow-up posts about "giving the seat time to break in". It is naive to suggest that the problem will abate with time as wear will probably make sitting on a steel frame even more uncomfortable.
pamlico426, did you ever find a permanent solution to your shift lever locking problem (rather than a work-around)? I experienced the same problem this morning with my '98 Accord coupe. It's locked in Park until I use the key to unlock the shift lever. I'd just like to get an idea of what other posters recommended (I couldn't find any solutions in the email trail). Thanks for your help!
I am finding out that there is NO SET PRICE for Honda's extended warranty... Honda does not sell the warranty, but only Honda dealers, and the PRICES ARE ALL OVER THE PLACE...
I talked to Honda this morning (they answer the phone REAL QUICK, I must say), and when asking about it, they said that just as you can shop around for a car --- so should you do when purchasing the Honda Extended Warranty. Purchasing the warranty from a Honda dealership in one state is OK to be used in any other state...
The only limitation for purchasing this extended warranty is 6,000 miles. Beyond that my car would not be eligible for Honda's extended warranty as a NEW car, but as a USED car, which will be more expensive, naturally.
I have a 92 accord and I have fuel problems. I thought it was the fuel pump and replaced it but still have no fuel pressure. I can't hear the pump running. The manuals say to check the fuel pump cut off relay and one says it is located behind the fuse panel but it's not. Please help!
Thanks for replying. We sort of skipped over the fuel pump because it seemed to have an intermittent fuel problem for a while before it went out altogether. It was like an on or off thing. Where I thought the fuel filter symptoms would be like a running out of gas. My next thing I am going to do is replace the fuel filter and see if I have flow to that point. Thanks
My 02 accord has 77k on it with the original front rotors and pads. In the last few weeks I could feel a slight vibration in the steering wheel when I use the brakes @ speeds of 60 miles/hr and above. It sounds like warped rotors to me or the pads wearing out ? do you think I should get this looked @ soon or should I wait ? How long you think the pads will last considering I do close to 500 miles per week highway driving ?
P.S. In my last car ( 99 Alero), the rotors warped @ 30k miles !!!! Thank you in advance for your time. :confuse:
I have a 2001 Accord V6 and experiencing an intermitting noise coming from the right rear passenger area. It sounds like it's the loose plastic attached to the rear windshield. I've tried to tighten the plastic covering which I think is part of the defrosting for the windshield. Has anyone experienced this problem?? It does come and go. Any ideas or answers are greatly appreciated... Allan
Truth is that the extended warranty does not kick in until the standard warranty is over, therefore if you purchase 100K warranty on a new car, you're only actually getting 64K under the extended part. I have had companies offer extended warranty on a Used vehicle for which I would pay less for since there are indeed fewer miles to cover. I was told by one company that if my mileage exceeded 30K the company rep. would need to inspect the vehicle but the price would still be less and if mileage was under the 30K, it would be no more than the New car warranty. Logically, there is no reason to charge more. The insurance company is taking the same chance regardless.
Our 1997 Accord EX Wagon (44K miles) has just developed a problem with the rear hatch lock. The rear hatch will not open under any circumstances. The key or the EX key fob remote unlock everything else, but the rear hatch is totally dead. It makes the right noises, but does nothing at the hatch. Even the key in the rear hatch lock doesn't unlock it. Any tips to point me in the right direction? TIA!
Love my 1993 Honda Accord - bought new. Recently while I am driving - accelerating or not - the engine cuts off with no notice - no "weird" sound - just cuts off. Lights are on - I can steer & brake - tank full of gas. After I sit a while on the side of the road & try a few times - the engine will eventually turn over after a few feudal attempts. (all dash board lights - check engine, oil etc illuminate) What do you think it could be? Fuel pump? Distributor? I know I'll have to take it in - but curious what you experts think. Thank You So Much!
I know it's very odd to be asking this. My dad got me a 98 Accord LX and showed me once how to change my oil. Well, I'm attempting to change my oil today and I was wondering, do I remove the filter first or the drainplug? Or does it not matter? Sorry guys, I just recently discovered an interest in cars and decided to learn how my own car works first.
It doesnt really matter which you do first. Any oil left in the filter that can drain back into the engine will do so in a fairlly short time (it's not much oil). I like to drain the oil first, but I don't have a logical reason for it.
Warped rotors are annoying, but I have never heard of effecting how well the car stops. If you can live with it.....
I have had pads last 100k miles, as I do alot of highway driving also. I would have the pads inspected the next time your in for service just to be sure, or if your willing, look at them yourself. It isn't that hard to do.
That's my preference, too, but for no good reason. Well, it's probably because I hate dealing with the oil running down the back face of the 4 cylinder engine block no matter how I try to avoid the mess. Why is that filter dead center over the exhaust pipe? My wife "loves" the smell of used Mobil 1 burning off that flexpipe...
One of the nice things about the V6 on my 04 EX is the location of the of filter. Since I rotate the tires with each oil change ( 5K), when I remove the front right tire the filter is right there and so easy to remove. I remember changing the oil on my 95 Integra. It was a greater challenge and of course one is rewarded with the smell of some of the old oil burning off of the catalytic converter & exhaust pipe.
I purchased a brand new 2005 Honda Accord LX SE Coupe from Open Road Honda located on Rt. 1 in NJ last Friday. I started hearing some suspension noise ( a metalic sound, like 2 metal pieces striking each other) when I went over potholes. Today I took the car to the dealer and we were able to determine that the sound was coming from the front right side of the car. They asked me to leave the car and gave me a rental. They said I could pick it up in the evening. When I went to them, they say said that they worked on it all day but were unable to figure out what the problem is. This leads me to think that it maybe a serious problem. They say they will spend tomorrow trying to fix it. Please advise me about what I can do.Has anyone else faced problems immediately after delivery. What did you do? What do you guys suggest I do?
I don't think that a rattle is something to worry over. They can be difficult to locate, lets face it, if its in the suspension, it may be difficult to track it down if it only makes noise when the car is driven. Obviously they can't drive the car and look underneeth at the same time.
Give them the time they need, and they will fix it.
You should probably check the jack in the back of the car. Mine was "loose" enough so that it would rattle and make the "metal on metal" sound whenever I went over bumps. A simple tightening of it resolved that problem.
I recently posted message number 12216. Unfortunately, it is officially the start of Day 3 and Open Road Honda still has no clue what is wrong with the car. They have checked the suspension in and out and still are unable to figure out what the problem is. Believe it or not, they now say that it "might" be the brake calipers causing the sound. They do not have the part in stock and have ordered it overnight. They will receive it today and they say they will install the new calipers and test the car. They are not certain that this will solve the problem. To me it looks like they are trying to switch each and every part hoping that they will be able to figure out what the problem is. Where are the qualified technicians? I am so disappointed with Honda. My first new car out of Grad school. Thought I was making a good decision by buying a car thats supposed to be so highly rated. What can I do? I've owned the car 7 days and they have had it for 3 days now. Please advice. :confuse:
Well, I took it into the dealer. They checked the A/C drain tube and nothing was stuck. (They attached a vacuum and nothing came out.) I had a towel jamed up in the area on the passenger side floor where water was leaking so the service people knew where the leak was. Their guess is that the clog worked itself out.
They also sealed some areas toward the intake vents just in case water was getting in from the outside (don't think this was the case because water was only getting in through the floor area). As for the noises, they say it is likely the water interfering with the AC fan.
Things seem to be working fine now. After I park the car, I look under the car to see if water's draining properly. It is. This was all covered under warranty.
A brake-related part, particularly a brake pad tensioner, could be causing the metal-to-metal noise. Unless there's a loose suspension bolt or a defective suspension bushing - rare for a new Honda -, there are very few underbody parts that will give off that metallic noise at a very early stage.
I've had the tensioner go early on a previous car, and worn, noisy brake pads on my 03 Accord, that had mechanics scratching their heads. It was good to know they were not serious problems, but as car owners we don't like any noise either.
I'd let the dealer do the brake experiment as another elimination step.
Unfortunately, they have not been able to trace the source of the sound so far. Today is the 3rd day. This leads me to believe that this maybe something serious. The dealership is known to be able to fix almost anything within 48 hours.
when i put the car in gear it cuts off. i have to drive with both feet (automatic trans) to keep engine running. i have used a carb cleaner and i did change the vacuum hoses. So i have decided it has to be the carburetor.
Well, you could always increase the idle speed if you can find the right screw to adjust.
We had a 1985 Accord with a carburetor. I bought the repair manual and tried to understand how the darn thing worked. I recall I discovered that if I plugged up one of the little hoses, the car ran much better when it was cold, and I was very proud I figured that out.
To meet the ever-stringent emissions standards, carbs became much more complex in the 80's. They ran pretty lean to reduce emissions. If they got a little out of adjustment, they were too lean, and would then run very poorly.
Comments
I was able to carefully remove the top of the carb off and clean it out. That helped in my situation. Now, it may not be unrelated to your problem, but I thought I'd mention it.
Mrbill
Sammy Castagna
You simply have to do some experiments, especially with those power seats which can give you some 64,000 combinations (...). I think my problem was having the front of the seat set to high (while the back of the seat to low) or, in other words, the ANGLE of the seat itself was too high and needed to be lowered.
Yes, I also agree, the Lumbar support is too high on your back, and actually may CAUSE you pain.
Don't give up... Keep adjusting and testing.
Here's one trick you can try but BE CAREFUL. Switch two plug wires so that the car backfires when you try to start it -- LEAVE THE AIR CLEANER ON!!!! Do this a few times, then put the plug wires back on properly, then pour some STRONG carb cleaner in the tank AND the carb itself (while car is running, be careful, have fire extinguisher hand) and then drive the hell out of it. See what happens.
The question is, is it worth it... less than $1,000 for a coverage of 8 years/100,000miles seems like a good deal to me, no?
I think it is a waste of money with Honda's relability, but that is just my opinion. I didn't buy an extended warranty. And by the way there is a whole thread on extended warranties , pricing, etc. if you want to discuss and find more information
Good Luck,
MidCow
Or do you refer to a specific BOARD that deals with purchasing extended warranty.
In general, having also a 1995 Accord V6, I have a feeling that it doesn't take much to have a repair that can easilly go over $1,000... 4 years ago I had to replace my ABS module for $1,200 (I wrote about it here lately)...
The question is, what kind of (common?) problems can my Accord have in future years that would be cosly but NOT covered by Honda's extended warranty...
Certainly I wouldn't think of buying anything but Honda's own extended warranty, btw.
Also, I noticed that the passenger floor is wet. Water is dripping from the upper left side (on passenger side) where the plastic from the center panel (CD holder) and the floor meet. I'm guessing that water from the AC is not draining properly. I've read one other post that describes my problem exactly. I am concerned because that post and similar ones state that replacing or unclogging the air conditioning drain did not solve the problem.
I have a 2004 Accord EX V6 w/Nav. Any thoughts before I call the dealer? Thanks.
cars were affected in N. America. They didn't pay for the work (out of warr) but they did pay for the rental car. Good luck.
Even if your car is supposedly not affected, they may need to know so that yours can be added to the list.
My guess is that I should keep everything turned off until I have the problem fixed. Do you agree.
There is a specific board on extended warranties:
civicgirl05, "Honda Extended Warranties: Pricing and Info" #540, 20 Aug 2005 2:43 pm!make=Honda&model=Accord&ed_makeindex=.ef0eeb7
This is a link to the last current message in the "Honda Extended Warrnaties: Pricing and Info" thread.
Specifically, if you are thinking about getting one, look very, very carefully at what is covered and what is excluded.
MidCow
You notice he said to have a fire extinguisher handy, but even so this is very,very dangerous because carb cleaner is very flamable and you could easily end up burning up you engine, your car and seriously injuring yourself.
I would be very careful about trying to solve your carburetor problem as suggested
MidCow
It's interesting how, every few months, these seat related posts re-appear. In this case, the owner actually took the expensive step of having the seat modified. Of course it was to no avail. The problem, which is never addressed (because there is no practical solution) stems from the design of seat's steel frame. The upholsterer has few options with such a seat, as over-padding will alter its appearance and cause problems when restoring the cover. There is also the problem of the side airbag. Any major changes to the seat could restrict this function and endanger the driver. [There is an additional steel frame, on the left side of the driver's seat (opposite configuration on the passenger side) to protect this device in a crash. Support for this includes a vertical steel post that can cause the vertical left side bolster to feel very stiff. The steel frame under the left side horizontal bolster can cause hip pain.] Most likely, the seat is designed for safety first and then comfort. This compensation results in a serious comfort problem for a some drivers.
Then , there are always follow-up posts about "giving the seat time to break in". It is naive to suggest that the problem will abate with time as wear will probably make sitting on a steel frame even more uncomfortable.
Ad tighten the carburator base nuts (gently) and check for vacuum leaks.
It wouldn't be "a warrantable service" if a clogged drain is due to a leaf, pine needle or other similar accumulation.
I talked to Honda this morning (they answer the phone REAL QUICK, I must say), and when asking about it, they said that just as you can shop around for a car --- so should you do when purchasing the Honda Extended Warranty. Purchasing the warranty from a Honda dealership in one state is OK to be used in any other state...
The only limitation for purchasing this extended warranty is 6,000 miles. Beyond that my car would not be eligible for Honda's extended warranty as a NEW car, but as a USED car, which will be more expensive, naturally.
How long you think the pads will last considering I do close to 500 miles per week highway driving ?
P.S. In my last car ( 99 Alero), the rotors warped @ 30k miles !!!!
Thank you in advance for your time. :confuse:
Of course there is... Just plain good old LOGIC....
Why would ANY insurance compay take the same chance with a new car as with a used car???
Why would YOU prefer to purchase a newer car with,say, 5,000 miles rather than a car with 50,000 mles? How about 150,000 miles?...
Allan
I was told by one company that if my mileage exceeded 30K
the company rep. would need to inspect the vehicle but the price would still be less and if mileage was under the 30K, it would be no more than the New car warranty. Logically, there is no reason to charge more. The insurance company is taking the same chance regardless.
Recently while I am driving - accelerating or not - the engine cuts off with no notice - no "weird" sound - just cuts off.
Lights are on - I can steer & brake - tank full of gas.
After I sit a while on the side of the road & try a few times - the engine will eventually turn over after a few feudal attempts. (all dash board lights - check engine, oil etc illuminate)
What do you think it could be?
Fuel pump? Distributor?
I know I'll have to take it in - but curious what you experts think.
Thank You So Much!
Mrbill
I have had pads last 100k miles, as I do alot of highway driving also. I would have the pads inspected the next time your in for service just to be sure, or if your willing, look at them yourself. It isn't that hard to do.
Mrbill
Give them the time they need, and they will fix it.
Mrbill
And I have sprayed a LOT of carb cleaner down a lot of carbs and I have never had a problem.
Well, I took it into the dealer. They checked the A/C drain tube and nothing was stuck. (They attached a vacuum and nothing came out.) I had a towel jamed up in the area on the passenger side floor where water was leaking so the service people knew where the leak was. Their guess is that the clog worked itself out.
They also sealed some areas toward the intake vents just in case water was getting in from the outside (don't think this was the case because water was only getting in through the floor area). As for the noises, they say it is likely the water interfering with the AC fan.
Things seem to be working fine now. After I park the car, I look under the car to see if water's draining properly. It is. This was all covered under warranty.
I've had the tensioner go early on a previous car, and worn, noisy brake pads on my 03 Accord, that had mechanics scratching their heads. It was good to know they were not serious problems, but as car owners we don't like any noise either.
I'd let the dealer do the brake experiment as another elimination step.
We had a 1985 Accord with a carburetor. I bought the repair manual and tried to understand how the darn thing worked. I recall I discovered that if I plugged up one of the little hoses, the car ran much better when it was cold, and I was very proud I figured that out.
To meet the ever-stringent emissions standards, carbs became much more complex in the 80's. They ran pretty lean to reduce emissions. If they got a little out of adjustment, they were too lean, and would then run very poorly.
I guess you choices are:
1) Find a competent repairman.
2) Fool around with it yourself to improve it.
3) Accept it as it is.
4) Get a new car.