Has 180k on it. Transmission is fine. Shifts crappily like all Hondamatics from back then, but it still humms right along. It's a shame that a certain number of newer Accords can't seem to do the same.
"My transmission is starting to make a soft clunking sound if I lift off of the gas while (or just before ) it is shifting. Under moderate or hard acceleration the shifts are very smooth and quick with no unusual noises.
Has anybody had this happen? Is something wrong, or will tranny fluid change help things?"
Just purchased a 05 Accord Sedan EXV6 and loved it up until recently. I notice a rattling noise coming from the front door panel on the right side of my vehicle. The sound usually develops from small bumps at moderate speed. A little bit like a piece of metal loose and jingling around in the panel. It sounds like it comes from the speaker up towards the window. It'll a small annoying noise that developed after 1k of miles. I took it to the dealer who seems to have no idea how to fix it. They are ordering me a new speaker and some kinda hinge that goes around the window which he thinks will fix the sound. He mentioned that he had to buy the hinge for a few other people who developed an issue with the window hiting on the door. I don't think this is my issue. The speaker being loose might be though. Originally he told me it was the glovebox when I first complained of the sound. I knew this wasn't an issue. I think they figured it might shut me up if they told me they re-alligned the glovebox and looked around a little bit. Then after leaving the dealership the sound appeared again. I did a 5 mile drive with the tech who decided to order that equipment. Anyone else notice this problem? I feel like I might be making a big deal out of nothing but money doesn't grow on trees. At least not in New Jersey. Please reply or email me if you have any ideas BMR123@gmail.com
Just a quick update about the creaking noise that was coming from the right side of the driver's seat whenever I made a tight turn or stopped the car. I took it to the dealer today and I'm happy to report that the problem was fixed. The service advisor told me that they called Honda and were advised to disassemble the seat and re-insulate the area between the metal frame and the foam. Exactly like somebody else had posted in this forum. This seems to have solved the problem. No more creaking noise so far.
I had the same problem. Dealer ordered a new glove box and the problem hasn't returned for 6,000 miles. Now if I can get them to fix the rattle from the rear seatbelt retractor.
My wife has a 2K Accord (80K miles) and we are starting to notice a noise coming from the front end area of her car. It gets louder as you speed up and sounds something like tire noise but the tires are in good shape. She had a noise in the front prior to this that sounded like brake pads going out but those had just been replaced (had them checked again to be sure). Now that noise seems to be gone but this new noise is very distracting.
Any ideas.....hard to describe the noise over the net :-)
I have an 85 Honda Accord with 50,00 original miles. The car idles fine when in neutral or park but drops down to 400-500RPM when I shift into gear with the brake on . It runs great except when I slow down quickly or come to a stop, then the engine frequently dies due to the low Idle speed in gear. I've taken it to the local Honda dealer and they say nothing is wrong. Its a real safety hazard because sometimes when I slow down to round a corner the engine will die and I have to put it in neutral and restart it while rolling with another car on my rear end. Thanks, Charlie
Go to Autozone, they will check charging system on car for no charge. Rebuilt Alternator installed by non Honda dealer should cost under $200. I can't see how spark plugs could cause this. IF car is running OK now I wouldn't rush into spending $2500.
That is ridiculous in my opinion. My local mechanic only charges about maximum $20 ( i buy my own brake fluid at the dealership and thus, does not add up with the $20). Total cost for me would be around $40. I guess it also depends on how many bottles of brake fluid and the cost of those bottle your automobile needs.
I just flush the brake fluid 3 months ago on my 99 Accord V6 before I sold it. I bought a 24 oz container of Prestone DOT 3 fluid $4. The complete flush used about 60% of the container. Done at home, this would take approx 90 minutes. In the shop with a car lift and a brake bleeding tool, this should take about 30 minutes. You could save yourself some money and buy a brake bleeding tool from Pepboys for about $30 and use this on all you cars in the future.
I got my new Accord V6 EX Coupe yesterday. Can drifted to the left and road noise was pronounced (can feel every bump on the surface of the road). Found out that the back tires were low in air. That problem was solved. The other problem I found out was that the new car creaks and pops at slow speed especially prior to a stop or when acceleration. My dad was in the car also to find out where it's coming from. We have no idea where's it coming from and it's pretty annoying and it does seems like it's coming from the the interior on the rear left side somewhere. Going to call the dealer and ask what could be done. Is this covered by our warrantee?
Alright here we go. My car is over heating, i just changed the thermostat and flushed the fluids. it was kind of light brown, i think it might be mixing with the oil...? i put a couple rust cleaners and post refill coolant half water. changed the cap and cleaned the reseviour and hose. it still is overheating, there is some steam near the radiator, maybe a small hole..the fans are also not going on at the right times.. i heard that they should go on when the car goes on and after it goes up to temp .. but only for a min or so.. i changed the relay for that near the thermostat, but they arent going on when it overheats, they always are going on when i turn the car off and they go for a lil bit ....? whats up with that...?? I was wondering if i could hook the computer up and find out what problems are going on and what happened in the past...this is possible?
You bet your last bippy it is - leastways at least up through the first year of ownership. (manufacturers have varying policies regarding "minor" aggravation issues) I used to be of the opinion that listing the odd little problems in a new car and then presenting them at the time of the car's first service was the smart thing to do. But after an experience with a new '73 Ford with the air-conditioner, which didn't get fixed at the time of the first service ("We didn't have time..."), I take new cars in under warranty as needed so the morons at the stealership can't pull that nonsense on me.
I believe all '94 Hondas had aluminum engines, aluminum-cased water pumps, aluminum radiators and aluminum heater cores. While aluminum can (and does) corrode, it's not brown as in iron rust. You may be right about a leaking radiator (and don't discount the possibilty of a leaking heater core, either) You may also be absolutely right about the possibility of a cylinder head gasket leak allowing engine oil into the coolant (and just as importantly, allowing coolant into the motor oil) - though I hope not. BIG trouble, if that's the case. The FIRST thing I would do would be to pull a sample of the engine oil AND a sample of the coolant (a couple of ounces of both will do) and have them analyzed through one of the oil analysis services. If there's glycol in the engine oil AND oil in the coolant, that would completely confirm your worst fears. (glycol is highly corrosive to lead in the engine main and connecting rod bearing materials - having a "little" glycol in the engine oil is analogous to having a "little" cancer or being a "little" pregnant - big problems that don't go away without expensive surgery) If an analysis shows no inter-mixing, then at least you know the problem's confined to the cooling system. Fixing whatever's wrong at that point may not be cheap, but it won't be as financially disastrous as an engine rebuild either.
definitely not the glovebox being the issue with me. My problem is definitely a rattling from the front right passenger side door. The sound is mostly from the bottom panel. The tech wasn't certain how to fix it. He ordered me a new door speaker and a "R/F run channel". Anyone know what a R/F run channel is? I'm hoping this fixes the issue. It isnt a big deal but I don't want the sound getting worse. I wanted to document this issue in case it gets worse over the next few months. I'm hoping that once these parts are ordered and installed my issue gets better.
I've had my 02 SE for more than three years now. Since 7-8 months ago, when I drive faster than 80 mph, I hear some -sometimes very loud- rattle noise from the front passenger side. I'm not sure where it exactly comes from, but it is around the glove-box.
I took it to the dealer and they took out the heat shield which didn't fix the problem. Recently I sometimes hear a hissing noise from the front passenger side, when AC is running. So now, I'm suspecting that it has something to do with the AC fan.(Although I hear the rattle noise when the AC is off too.)
As far as the hissing noise, are you sure it wasn't always there? All A/C systems make a hissing noise, its the refrigerant traveling thru the system. Maybe some of the soundproofing was removed at the dealer when trying to locate the rattle, and was not replaced.
oh no - not hissing - you mean sizzling, like the sound of water hitting a hot skillet? got a wet floor mat on the passenger side? could be a blocked AC evaporator drain. plenty of other posts related to that topic if you search for it.
as for the rattle noise, any chance it is the sun visor? have someone else drive and ride in the passenger seat. this will help you in localizing the sound source.
I bought a 2005 EX V-6 4-door sedan brand new.(with XM radio).I have been trying to find this poping and creaking noise since I bought the car 5 weeks ago.Now it might not be the same problem that you have because mine happens when I hit bumps.It seem to be coming from the air bags.It was not the air bag container because I finally found it.It seem to be coming from the visor on the drivers side.It was not the visor but it was in that area.The visor is connected to the Ceiling(unsure of the technical term).The upholstered ceiling runs into the windsheild.You can put your hand between the ceiling and the windsheild.Because of that gap it is very flimsy there .I pushed into the ceiling with my hand where it meets the windshield behind the visor and there it was Please reply if this is the same noise.The gap is there for a reason I guess, I don,t know if the defrost air comes through there.Thanks Honda for your Quality Control :mad:
Did you test the temp gauge sending unit? If it's bad it could give temp gauge a false reading. The cooling fan is controlled by the thermosensor at the radiator. My guess is you have a bad temp gauge sending unit.
so when it's cold out and I put my car in park, let go of the shifter button thing and try to turn the car off and take the key it wont give me the key. From here I noticed that it's not recognizing that it's in park. Not only is it not recognizing it; it's also not recognizing when my foot is on the brake and therefore wont let me take it out of park. so I'm stuck sitting in my car a minute or two waiting for the little light on the dash thing to light up around the P. once it lights up, I take the key out, no problem. oh, and if you pull back really hard on the shifter it sometimes help, but you can't let go cuz the light goes back off. any clue what this could be? It didn't do it all summer cuz it was warm (or so I'm convinced) but now that the weather is getting colder in the mornings it's started up again.
I have a 2005 EX V-6 and I had a little noise coming from the top when I stopped or accelerated or went over speed bumps. It turned out to be my sunglasses rattling inside the sunglass holder. It only had a foam lining toward the back and not on the side or front of the holder so the sunglass would rock back and forth and make a rattling noise. I simply put some thin foam tape in those areas and it fixed the noise. I don't know if you problem is the same thing or not but maybe check it out.
Im not sure about the temp gauge sending unit, im gonna have to check that out.. but when it says it over heating a when it gets up there it start to steam or smoke, its comin from the middle towards the bottom of the radiator... I brought it in to the shop to test the comp and see if they can find out what it is, im gonna talk to the guy in a bit, ill ask him about that. where would i be able to find the temp gauge sensor. because i changed the sensor that is like right above the thermostat, it was a small green piece with two wires coming from a housing unit connected to several wires, all connecting to that central area, do you think it might be a leak in the radiator..?
We have a 02 accord (SE) with a similar rattle, it seems to come from the airbag/glovebox area. It's worse when it's cold, once car and interior warms up, it goes away.
The hiss is pretty normal, prolly AC, ours does the same.
If you seem steam coming from the middle of the radiator, you must have a hole in it. The only other way to see steam in that area would be if water was splashed there and is steaming off.
The cooling system is designed to be sealed, so a leak can cause problems if the system cant build up pressure. When the system is sealed, it actually builds up a little pressure, and if you remember your high school science class, when you build up pressure, hot water has to be heated to a higher temp before it boils. If you car doesn't build up pressure, the coolent which is mostly water, will boil at a lower temp.
There are other rattle noises from the dashboard area that get worse when it gets cold. They usually sound like loose screw jumping up and down! (I asked about this at the dealership and they told me they're natural!) But this one that comes from under the glovebox area, depends on my speed more than anything else. When I'm driving 90+ it gets pretty loud, but it usually starts around 80. I've heard it only a couple of times when I've been doing less than 65. That's why I think it has something to do with the air flow under the car or inside the ac/air ventilation system. (The main reason they couldn't find the problem at the dealership was that they couldn't test-drive the car and do faster than 65.)
Well, finally we found others who are experiencing the same problem with their 2005 V-6 as well. We continue to get the brush-off from everyone. "It's out of our hands," we're told. So we sent Corporate a letter. A few weeks later a young man called us and said, verbatim, "this is characteristic of the vehicle." When asked if anyone else had reported the problem to Honda, he did admit that other same-model car owners have reported the problem, and "A group of engineers are working on the issue." I then asked him to write us a letter, in response to our letter, indicating what he just told me. He flatly refused to do so. I asked him who could, and he said no one. I insisted, and asked to speak to someone higher than him, and he finally gave me the name of someone who would call us back....but you guessed it....they never did.
So if a group of engineers are working on the issue, it must be an ISSUE, right? I don't buy that it's an ABS engaging-thing. The very fact that the "engineers are working on the issue" indicates Honda has a problem.
Our's does it every time we first start the car up. It feels as though there's a raccoon uncer the accelerator. It will do it on occasion while we're driving around as well. And it does seem to be getting worse. It's driving us crazy and we think something should be done about it.
Hi, Just bought a new Accord 2006...When I tried to push the gas pedal it seems like it takes a while for car to respond..and it respond with a jerk and then speed up. Do you guys think it is normal behavior or some problem here. Another ques is about maintenance: How should I remove the morning dew quickly. If i left the dew for whole day it dries up during the day and leave the water drop marks..Please help... Thanks
That is not normal for an Accord which should accelerate quickly and smoothly without any lag nor hesitation. Makes no difference whether it's a V6 or 4 cylinder--smooth and responsive acceleration is the way Accords are meant to drive.
Morning dew probably should be hosed off (no soap needed) and dried with soft towel or chamois if you have the time and energy to bother with it.........Richard
I had something odd happen with the lighting of the gauges in my 2005 Accord. They are electro-luminescent and there are two settings - full bright and a dim. I drive with my headlights on day or night with the gauge dimmer set to full-on bright. As I drove down the highway yesterday, on their own the gauges cycled between full on bright and dim.
It was as if the dimmer switch in the dash was being switched between dim and bright (though of course I was not touching it).
Any ideas as to what is wrong? If it happens again I will take it to the dealer. Thanks.
If you take apart the shifter console there is a set of contacts on the left side that corresponds to the gears PRND21 or whatever. Over time the grease migrates into this area, specifically where the spring is that pushes the one contact point against the metal shift points. In the cold the grease get hard and the spring doesn't operate as well. Hitting the console or jiggling the shifter sometimes settles the spring. Best thing to do though is spray the affected area with brake cleaner or something similar and get all the grease out. This is a common problem on that year Accord and one that Ive personally had.
Good luck.
PS- I posted a more detailed cleaning process somewhere in this board I think, just do a search for it.
edit: actually, I couldnt find my post. But if you take off the shifter console, take off the 3 or 4 screws holding on the main plastic part under the shifter knob and then remove the 'shift position console switch' on the driver's side (left) of the shifter assembly I'm betting you'll see the spring loaded contact (and just about everything near it) all gunked up with yellowish grease. I think the part on the left is a white plastic track, but it's been awhile. Spray that thing and the spring loaded contact liberally with some brake cleaner and let it air dry, then put it all back together. Be careful to see that everything lines up correctly, though its more of an annoyance than a safety issue. Once you do this, you should not have any problems for a good long time.
Just be absolutely sure to clean the heck out of that spring loaded contact and to remove all grease that has already or may in the future migrate into the assembly.
About a leak in your radiator, you need to fix that problem ASAP. It's the reason for over heat. Also it's a hazard. The radior could explode before the cap has a chance to pop.
I have a 2005 accord. I've noticed scratches all around the gearbox inside the car. I have the automatic transmission. Anyone else notice these annoying scratches?? Any ideas how to clean them? I don't even know how they got there. Mostly like foggy swirls and little scratches. When I use glass wipes or windex it doesnt help. Would my warranty get me a new one? Any ideas would be appreciated.
Be careful when using Windex on any plastic. Windex contains ammonia, and some plastics hate ammonia. For some reason it can make plastic brittle, which can make it prone to cracking.
As far as the scratches, if you can argue that the car came that way, the dealer may stand behind it and have the part replaced. If not, you will have to try other options.
I've had good luck removing scratches in plastic by using a good automotive wax. Just about all waxes contain a fine polishing compound, and it can remove the scratches with a lot of soft rubbing. The problem is if the scratches are in a dull finish, you may make it shiny, so try it in an area that isn't noticeable.
I feel two things upon starting my car first thing in the morning. I feel the ABS self-test, which lasts a couple of seconds and can be felt through the gas pedal. I also sometimes feel a thump when I turn on the climate control system (or when I start the car if I've left CC on when turning off the car).
Both of these things are completely normal (in my opinion) and cause me no misgivings. The CC thump is much less severe in my '05 Accord EX-V6 than it was in my '02 Accord EX-V6.
If either of these things is waht you're experiencing, then I would agree with the Honda rep. And, I don't think engineers looking into something doesn't mean that something isn't normal. They may just be trying to improve something.
Yeah sometimes it just better to leave it alone. I find that the more I try to fix it, the more problems arise. I was using those interior car wipes. But I have noticed it makes the scratches more visible. I will try to argue with them when I go in for an oil change. Currently I have them fixing another issue with my car (rattling noise). I must be a real picky person when it comes to my new vehicle.
All, My 98 accord had CEL on. Checked by the dealer, replaced the canister vent valve. But it did not solve the problem. Now dealer saying need to replace onboard refueling vapor recovery valve. Does anyone have the same problem on the accord ? Any solutions.
I went through that search too.I found that noise and was relieved that it was only the sunglasses.That is a good solution for the glasses. No my problem is definitly the head liner(ceiling).I can hold it in that area and eliminate the noise .I,ve been too busy to take it in.I also have another slight problem.My V-6 emblem on the rear of the car is not level.I noticed it at the dealership and the salesperson said that was the way it was suppose to be.I took his word (my mistake). I have since seen several 2005,s and my V-6 is definitly headed north on the left side.These are minor problems.
Comments
Has anybody had this happen? Is something wrong, or will tranny fluid change help things?"
I should add that it is a 1996 4-cylinder.
Any ideas.....hard to describe the noise over the net :-)
Ken
You bet your last bippy it is - leastways at least up through the first year of ownership. (manufacturers have varying policies regarding "minor" aggravation issues) I used to be of the opinion that listing the odd little problems in a new car and then presenting them at the time of the car's first service was the smart thing to do. But after an experience with a new '73 Ford with the air-conditioner, which didn't get fixed at the time of the first service ("We didn't have time..."), I take new cars in under warranty as needed so the morons at the stealership can't pull that nonsense on me.
The code may be on a small sticker at the back of your glove compartment.
I took it to the dealer and they took out the heat shield which didn't fix the problem. Recently I sometimes hear a hissing noise from the front passenger side, when AC is running. So now, I'm suspecting that it has something to do with the AC fan.(Although I hear the rattle noise when the AC is off too.)
Mrbill
as for the rattle noise, any chance it is the sun visor? have someone else drive and ride in the passenger seat. this will help you in localizing the sound source.
good luck.
I am looking a code for my 94 integra.
The cooling fan is controlled by the thermosensor at the radiator.
My guess is you have a bad temp gauge sending unit.
From here I noticed that it's not recognizing that it's in park. Not only is it not recognizing it; it's also not recognizing when my foot is on the brake and therefore wont let me take it out of park. so I'm stuck sitting in my car a minute or two waiting for the little light on the dash thing to light up around the P. once it lights up, I take the key out, no problem.
oh, and if you pull back really hard on the shifter it sometimes help, but you can't let go cuz the light goes back off.
any clue what this could be?
It didn't do it all summer cuz it was warm (or so I'm convinced) but now that the weather is getting colder in the mornings it's started up again.
The hiss is pretty normal, prolly AC, ours does the same.
Still a great car in my books.
The cooling system is designed to be sealed, so a leak can cause problems if the system cant build up pressure. When the system is sealed, it actually builds up a little pressure, and if you remember your high school science class, when you build up pressure, hot water has to be heated to a higher temp before it boils. If you car doesn't build up pressure, the coolent which is mostly water, will boil at a lower temp.
Mrbill
But this one that comes from under the glovebox area, depends on my speed more than anything else. When I'm driving 90+ it gets pretty loud, but it usually starts around 80. I've heard it only a couple of times when I've been doing less than 65. That's why I think it has something to do with the air flow under the car or inside the ac/air ventilation system. (The main reason they couldn't find the problem at the dealership was that they couldn't test-drive the car and do faster than 65.)
No, just open the door and look inside. It's there in my 2004 Accord. I can't speak for your Integra though.
So if a group of engineers are working on the issue, it must be an ISSUE, right? I don't buy that it's an ABS engaging-thing. The very fact that the "engineers are working on the issue" indicates Honda has a problem.
Our's does it every time we first start the car up. It feels as though there's a raccoon uncer the accelerator. It will do it on occasion while we're driving around as well. And it does seem to be getting worse. It's driving us crazy and we think something should be done about it.
So what's the next step here?
Just bought a new Accord 2006...When I tried to push the gas pedal it seems like it takes a while for car to respond..and it respond with a jerk and then speed up. Do you guys think it is normal behavior or some problem here.
Another ques is about maintenance:
How should I remove the morning dew quickly. If i left the dew for whole day it dries up during the day and leave the water drop marks..Please help...
Thanks
Morning dew probably should be hosed off (no soap needed) and dried with soft towel or chamois if you have the time and energy to bother with it.........Richard
It was as if the dimmer switch in the dash was being switched between dim and bright (though of course I was not touching it).
Any ideas as to what is wrong? If it happens again I will take it to the dealer. Thanks.
Good luck.
PS- I posted a more detailed cleaning process somewhere in this board I think, just do a search for it.
edit: actually, I couldnt find my post. But if you take off the shifter console, take off the 3 or 4 screws holding on the main plastic part under the shifter knob and then remove the 'shift position console switch' on the driver's side (left) of the shifter assembly I'm betting you'll see the spring loaded contact (and just about everything near it) all gunked up with yellowish grease. I think the part on the left is a white plastic track, but it's been awhile. Spray that thing and the spring loaded contact liberally with some brake cleaner and let it air dry, then put it all back together. Be careful to see that everything lines up correctly, though its more of an annoyance than a safety issue. Once you do this, you should not have any problems for a good long time.
Just be absolutely sure to clean the heck out of that spring loaded contact and to remove all grease that has already or may in the future migrate into the assembly.
From the diagram, part next to #19 on the right, I think it's the sending unit.
About a leak in your radiator, you need to fix that problem ASAP. It's the reason for over heat. Also it's a hazard. The radior could explode before the cap has a chance to pop.
As far as the scratches, if you can argue that the car came that way, the dealer may stand behind it and have the part replaced. If not, you will have to try other options.
I've had good luck removing scratches in plastic by using a good automotive wax. Just about all waxes contain a fine polishing compound, and it can remove the scratches with a lot of soft rubbing. The problem is if the scratches are in a dull finish, you may make it shiny, so try it in an area that isn't noticeable.
Mrbill
Both of these things are completely normal (in my opinion) and cause me no misgivings. The CC thump is much less severe in my '05 Accord EX-V6 than it was in my '02 Accord EX-V6.
If either of these things is waht you're experiencing, then I would agree with the Honda rep. And, I don't think engineers looking into something doesn't mean that something isn't normal. They may just be trying to improve something.
My 98 accord had CEL on. Checked by the dealer, replaced the canister vent valve. But it did not solve the problem. Now dealer saying need to replace onboard refueling vapor recovery valve. Does anyone have the same problem on the accord ? Any solutions.
thanks in advance.
Please help.
Mrbill