You are NOT alone! I test drove brand new 05 Accords on several occasions as I was flipping back and forth between the Accord EX and the Buick Lacrosse CXL. I noticed the same rattle/noise on certain bad road surfaces when the windows were lowered. At first I thought it was the particular Accord I was driving. So I asked to drive another and then a third. The noise was noticeable on ALL of them. I asked the Saleman if there was a problem or secret recall for the 05 Accords and he laughed. Not to my knowledge he said. Then he took one of the new Accords i drove into the service dept. It was driven briefly by the advisor and when he returned from the test drive stated to my salesman that the tires where overfilled. Personally I felt his head was overfilled as I am 49 yrs old and do have some experience with automobiles considering I have owned 23 of them during my lifetime. I mentioned to the saleman my concern that the Honda dealer seems to feel I am imagining this noise, and he said "go buy the Buick". That dealerships name is Wilde Honda in Waukesha, Wisconsin. Dont go there. Very errogant people. I went directly to their main competitor in SE Wisconsin, Honda City in Greenfield. I had been there on another occasion and went in to see the Saleman I had talked to before. I asked him if he was aware of any problems with the Accords having a rattle in the front end on rough roads. He said no. I asked to drive one at his dealer and he obliged. Drove a Black EX with leather & Moonroof. 22 miles on it. This car produced the same rattle. But you know what, I BOUGHT the car!! I love it and believe this is just the nature of the beast. If it is an engineering problem, I am confident Honda will take care of it when they get enough complaints. By the way the other new Accords I drove also had less than 50 miles on them. My feeling is they (all 05 Accords) must have the same rattle. I will be mentioning it to my service advisor when I return for the first oil change so that it is on record. My advice is to anyone else who reads this, please leave your own post also. The more the better.
WHEW! I thought you were going to say you bought the Buick Lacrosse CXL. Hope you get your rattle fixed. I have a 2005 Coupe with 12K miles and no rattle on rough roads.
Ok I tried your suggestions.....turning the ignition and turning on the heat/ac.....it vibrated. Left the car cooled and looking under the hood for the fan.....guess what, I found a piece of broken fan blade like you said! So I guess I'll bring it to a shop and let them know I need the fan replaced, hopefully they won't be too awful about pricing me. At least now I know what exactly is wrong. Thanks So Much for your help!!
Alright- so Last friday evening- our 2003 Accord EX left us sitting on the Ohio Turnpike. When I got out (I was on the passenger side), I looked down at my feet and there was a ton of water under them- it was completely soaked. It was not raining. The car at stopped working when the engine light and battery light went on. So we had it towed to a local honda dealer out there- (Sidenote- The warranty just went out last month). The service manager called us on Saturday and told us that we needed a new computer- that it was ruined from the leak- which he could not find. So now we have a rental car here in PA and have to go back to Ohio to get our car- whenever the computer comes in and they find the problem. My question- other than wondering if anyone else has experienced this- is should we keep the car? It has always been my belief that once something has water damage- that you should get rid of it while it still has some value. There is water damage because now our entrire front passenger side is soaked through. What do you think? Thanks for your input! :confuse:
Could it have just been a leaky hose that squirted coolant all over the engine? A bad water pump? A hole in the radiator? The type of "water damage- that you should get rid of it while it still has some value" would normally be associated only with a vehicle that was submerged, ala Hurricane Katrina.
The main thing is for the technicians to locate and remediate the leak. The Service Manager telling you that they could not find the leak, is totally unacceptable. A replacement computer could probably be located at a wrecking yard. However, replacing it and having it too get soaked, makes no sense. That's why the leak must be repaired first.
You've got a great car. Just have it repaired and it will last you many more thousands of miles.
Were you using your A/C alot? I wonder if the drain hose became plugged, which may be source of the water.
If your car was seriously flooded, where it sat in water that was high enough to enter the car, I would be worried. If the water damage was localized to just the passenger side, then the damage should be minimal and I would not be concerned.
Have you checked with your insurance? I don't know if they would cover non-flood water damage, but it can't hurt to ask.
get rid of the damn thing, because the next thing u know your car's gonna smell like rotten terds, (being very literal) the same thing happened to me a couple of years ago in a chevy and eventually the smell got so bad i had to rip out the carpet and spray it down..get rid of it while you still can. :lemon:
No we were actually running the heat that evening because it was down to like 50 degrees outside.
I think my concern is more with the fact that water got into something. I just was under the impression that something like this usually is the start of more problems.
We are waiting to hear back from the Honda Corp. in regards to what they are going to do for us.
It just sucks when you think you have something nice and this happens.
This was also a concern of mine. Honda Corp told this dealership that in order for them to even make a decision on what to do with it, they need to get the computer in it and find the leak. We think it might be the back up in the cooling system like suggested by Mr.Bill. But who knows. All I know is that I am extremely disappointed by this.
1> Was there any odor in the car from this "water"? (Engine coolant has a "sweet" odor from the ethylene glycol.)
2> If yes, has the coolant ever been changed out in this car, and, if so, what kind was used?
(It seems like a burst heater core is a real possbility from the sparse information you gave. The wrong or too weak a concentration of antifreeze might've lead to sufficient corrosion in the thin heater core tubes to result in a pinhole rupture. With ~17lbs. of internal pressure, it wouldn't take long to make an expensive mess. Dunnno specifically about previous generation Honda Accords, but many cars tuck their ECMs somewhere in the dash maze, so it might've been sprayed.)
Firstly my car was taken to Honda service twice to address this issue. The run channels were changed in the drivers door and adjustments done to the window. This eliminated the rattle that almost sounded like the window could crack when going over a harsh bump. What remained was a creaking/popping noise. Honda actually printed on my repair receipt that "no know remedy at present"! I was told offhand by the tech to fill the inside of my rubber door moldings with graphite spray. I finally located a dry film spray from an aircraft supply house. That eliminated the creaking of the seal rubbing against itself internally. Also I used a typical off the shelf silicone spray lube to coat between the rubber body seals and metal. Finally I found a source of a silicone paste type lube to keep the seals lubricated externally. Similar consistency to vasaline but safe for rubber. Its right off the shelf at lowes and used to lube o rings for plumbing. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=817-1409-GR-2V-D&category=15- &lpage=none&bc=c I drove to manahatten on the nj tpk and george washington bridge yesterday, and for the first time, not one noise from the car! Besides the run channels and stuff the dealer canf ix, the problem involves the tight fit of the doors compressing the thin seals. I think its more of a rubber on metal squeak than rubber on rubber. Sounds like a new source of rubber is warented, silicone impreganted? The tch said he hadnt seen another complaint........makes me want to laugh..........
Back with my '95 Accord V6 (77k miles). I was here before about my ABS light, that turned out to be my ABS Module reservoir needing to be topped with brake fluid every now and then.
Over the weekend my daughter was visiting from out of town, drove the car all day and left the car parked in the garage for the night with the HAND BRAKE engaged, something that I haven't done for years...
The next morning there was a PUDDLE on the floor, right under the ABS Module. I had to add brake fluid to the reservoir again.
The next 2 mornings there was not a drop visible on the garage floor, and the reservoir is full.
Something is leaking in the system around the ABS Module, but the mystery is -- my mechanic can't understand why would it leak so much more -- when the HAND BRAKE is engaged... There isn't supposed to be any connection between the two, is there?
If there was no odor and no greenish color, than it has nothing to do with your engine's coolant/antifreeze. I presume that your windshield washer fluid has a blue tint. If that is the case, and the water that you mentioned was not blue, than you don't have a washer fluid leak. If it didn't smell like gasoline, that fluid must be ruled out. There are no other non-motor oil, non-power steering or non-braking system fluids in a modern automobile
The only two possible other reasons for a clear non-odoriferous liquid to be in your car are:
1. A liquid carried into your vehicle by a passenger (water, soda, etc.)
OR
2. Water from a hose, rain, puddles, a car wash, etc.
My bet is on number 2 as the cause of your problem.
I'm new to this (or any) forum, but I needed to ask a question of a large Honda audience. My 1999 Accord LX has a manual transmission, a 2.3 liter four cylinder engine and about 55,800 miles on it. I am the original owner and it has been dealer serviced according to Honda's schedule. It recently developed a rattle when I engaged the clutch. It went right in for service and was diagnosed as a bad clutch. The next day, when it went out for a road test, the original noise was even worse. The engine bearings were replaced and the dealer covered them as a "goodwill warranty" item, so I only (!!) paid for the clutch replacement. Nine (9) days after I got the car back, the noise returned. This time they replaced the short block which American Honda covered as a "goodwill warranty" issue, only charging me for the labor involved!! My questions follow: Should this engine have "died" at only 55,000 miles?? Does anyone have any similar experiences with this engine?? Should I have any confidence in this rebuilt engine?? Thanks!!
Bad bearings at 55K yes, thats unusual and very rare for a Honda.
What I find interesting is the dealer 1st changed the bearings, then put in a short block when the noise returned in a few days. If they diagnosed the problem correctly, made sure the crank was in spec before they replaced the bearings, and more importantly, you had correct oil pressure with the new bearings, then the new bearings should have lasted. Smells fishy to me!!
Rebuilt engines can be as good as a new engines if done correctly. Engines are constantly rebuilt in larger trucks and busses, giving them as much life as when they were new. Give it a try, keep an eye on oil usage, and listen for noisy bearings esp. when first starting the car in the morning, if it doesn't rattle, it doesn't burn oil, you should be just fine.
ah yes, i lve it. started to tear down the engine sat. found oil and anti freeze in my inake system, large deposit of oil in yym exaust header, then i broke 2 sokets and a soket wrench removing the head bolts. once off... lol... there was still a puddle of antifreeze sitting ontop of the num. 3 piston! inspected the gastket, its a four layer steel gasket type. three layers were blown lol.
guess my only concerns now are if the antifreeze made it past the piston rings as that will spell disaster later.
the gasket set itself goes for $140 dollars at the parts store.
now im contemplating wether to patch it up and get er runnin again...
or make a few modification befor i slap her back together.
Makes me want to laugh as well. I've got an '04 Accord EX sedan that has creaky windows. The run channels were replaced and some silicone was placed on the door seals by the dealer. It worked fairly well for a while but the thing still is creaky and crackles over rough roads. It's really a shame 'cause the car drives nice and is great on long trips. Don't let any salesperson/serviceperson tell you that your complaint is the only one, they are not being honest. The service mgr at my local honda shop is a great guy and doesn't try to BS me. He aknowledged that there have been customer complaints about the door seals creaking and that they will do everything in their power to fix it. Unfortunately there seems to be no true cure...greases, potions and lotions don't do it and replacing run channels don't do it. At least he's trying to help.
My dissatisfaction with the '04 Accord started on day two of ownership when I was greeted by a loud rattle from the windshield...it was not sealed properly at the factory ( J vin#) but the dealer quickly repaired it, even paid for a rental car.
As an aside, my CD player has been skipping, stopping, sporadically after about 10 months of ownership. I've lived with it for so long 'cause it was sporadic but I figured I better get it looked at before the warranty expires. Service mgr didn't even question me, said he would order me a new one and it should arrive next week.
That service mgr is the main reason I'm holding on to the Accord '04 despite the obvious quality problems with this unit. Admittedly the problems are not horrendous and I've yet to be stranded by it the thing but even the most avid honda fan , such as myself, has to admit this car has been a bit of a disappointment. I was going to look at Acura's as a future replacement but I'm definately re-thinking that decision.
I shoulda went for the cr-v....my wife has one and we both love it. It's everything I would expect a honda should be.....no strange creaks, cd player doesn't skip, feels solid as a rock.
Forget about silicon, grease, or expensive crap. Just do what I did to the run channel, you will never hear the rattling noise again! It's a simple fix.
I'm thinking of the mechanics of rear drum brakes and emergency brake being applied, it may also apply to 4 wheel disk brakes, but I haven't seen the setup on the Accord yet.
When you pull the emergency brake, it mechanically pulls a cable which pulls a lever that moves the shoes. It may be putting a little back pressure on the brake cylinder which in turn pressurizes the fluid a little, which in turn is leaked out.
Again, I'm making a guess, I would really have to watch the mechanics to see if it truly doing this.
I have a 2005 Accord LX V6 with only 1800 miles on it and had a front end (drivers side) rattle for weeks that was very clear on mildly rough roads especially at low speeds (right around 20-25 mph). I took it into the dealership and they found that the adjustable rubber stoppers that support the hood were too low allowing the hood to vibrate under the correct conditions. They were adjusted and now the hood closes very securely and the front end rattle is gone. Its worth a look if others are having a similar rattle.
According to the 2005 EX 4 cylinder manual, the service schedule has oil changes at 5000 miles (severe driving) and 10,000 miles (normal driving). Other scheduled service items are at 10,000 miles, 20,000 miles, etc.
Question ... the Honda dealer where I bought the car has a service schedule of every 3750 miles. I don't have a problem with changing the oil every 4000 miles, but for everything else, which schedule should I be going by? It seems that I will be doing more than required service work going by the dealer's schedule.
Your DEALER did not engineer, design, test, or manufacture your Honda automobile. I'd suggest that you rely on the information provided by the manufacturer in your Owners Manual's Maintenance Schedule.
The dealer stands to make lots of money selling unneccessary services to unwary customers.
Yes. The run channel is from the side mirror to the upper top corner. My company uses poly foam to reduce the vibration. So I just cut it out from a 1/4 inch thick roll. I am sure you can find it at Home depot. Not only the window rattling noise goes away, the wind noise disappears too.
I bought a 2005 Honda Accord EX-L 4cyl in April of this year. I had a similar question regarding 10,000 mile oil changes. Most of us would fall under the regular schedule for oil changes; not the severe. I just can't go along with Honda on this. I have mine changed ever 5,000 miles. My wife has a cadillac cts and we go 10,000 on it because it uses synthetic oil. I think 4,000 is too soon, personally. However, if you feel better doing that then do it that often. Hondas are always thought of as good for 200,000 miles plus cars. I wonder what 10,000 mile oil changes would mean over the long haul.
I, too, bought a 05 EX, 4cyl, auto in April. I also felt going 10,000 miles between oil changes was too long since I'm a product of the 50's and was programmed to change my oil every 3,000 miles. But engines and oils have changed a lot over the years. So, what I decided to do was to do the first oil change at the 5,000 mark. I put in 5W-20 dino for another 5,000 miles, then at the 10,000 mile mark I changed it to Mobil 1 5W-20 and plan to run it for 10,000 miles. I do, however, change the oil filter at every oil change and not wait for 20,000 as the maintenance book indicates. So go with synthetic oil and run it for 10,000 miles...you shouldn't have any problems.
I thought Honda's oil change interval was 10,000 miles and especially the first should be done because they put in "special" breakin oil -- extra molybdenum, i.e..
Right around 60K between the two of them. They get 7500-9500 mile oil changes. We have no oil related issues yet. Might have to top off about half a quart at the 5000 mile point but that's about it. Considering the lead footed manner in which we drive, I think that pretty good.
My old Accord has 4 wheel discs. I would guess that if applying the hand brake puts some hydrolic pressure on the system (seems as if on this model the ABS hydrolic line is part of the brake system hydrolic line, right?), than the fluid might look for a weak spot to escape.... Apparently that weak spot is some loose connection under my ABS Module (which was replaced some 4 years ago)....
I have a 2005 EX-L I bought in May. Currently have just under 3000 miles - so what do y ou think; Wait and get an oil change every 5000 miles or just get one every five months?
I was told I fall under the "Severe" category based on location - I'm just asking about this because I don't drive the car often and while the oil looks ok - just wondering if waiting till I hit 5000 (as it might take another five months) would be the way to go.
Hey, thanks everyone for your replies! It gives me a better feeling about where to proceed.
And mamamia2, no, the dealer was recommending oil and filter change every 3750 miles. And they were recommending the 10,000 mile service in the Honda manual at 7500 miles. They did have a disclaimer that their recommended service might not reflect that of American Honda.
TSB's date was July 9, 2004. The problem has long been recognized by HOA. No reason why dealers should be charging owners when HOA is footing the bill. Out-of-warranty cases simply require the dealer to request the "District Parts and Service Manager" or the "Zone Office" for a goodwill replacement.
I have a 2005 Accord Coupe 4 cyl that I bought about 2 months ago. I have been averaging between 26-27 mpg in stop and go freeway driving and surface streets. I live in Southern California so I rarely get to drive on an open freeway. This last week I have used my defroster for most of the way to work. My mpg dropped to about 23.5 mpg. Is it because I am using the defroster, and that activates the air conditioner?
I read in past posts about switching the a/c off during defroster mode. What I am not understanding is why does the a/c need to be on during defrost? Does the defrost work better with a/c on in cold climates, where it snows? Does the a/c need to be on for the type of weather that we have in southern California?
iyo, I have a 91 accord too, the distributor was R/R feb 02....recently I started tracking down significant oil leaks under the distributor and elsewhere...after replacing the Oil pan gasket, the old-brittle O-ring on the distributor and checking the torque on other bolts I found one leak remained....the oil is leaking THROUGH the distributor - leaks out at the bottom edge between the cap and distributor body. My question can this type of leak be fixed without R/R the distributor ( cost $269.00 two + years ago)...stillgoing
Lea, someone once posted that the Accord engine exerts 20 hp for level cruising at 60 mph and the fully loaded A/C can demand 8 hp. If so, expect significant mpg reduction when A/C is in use under those conditions. Don't know if the A/C compressor works as hard in defrost mode, when the temp knob is set to neutral or to heat.
Below is a paste from another Accord site from about 1 year ago. This process seemed to turn off the automatic A/C in defrost mode with my 03 V6 Accord. But, I had to do it more than once.
Hey IMIS...there is "fix" for this annoyance. I don't know if it will be the same for your Accord, but, here is the way to do it in a 2001-current Civic(Canadian Acura EL):
1. Car is in off position. 2. Turn both the fan control knob and the temperature control knob all the way to the left (counterclockwise) 3. Press on BOTH the recirculate button and the a/c button 4. Turn the car on while holding these two buttons in...hold for about 7 seconds.
This procedure has worked in my '01 Civic Ex Coupe and my new '04 Civic Si...even though the manual for my Si says that the a/c can't be turned off when it's set to the defrost mode. I know that the HVAC/Stereo controls are different and more hi-tech in the Accord so I don't know if your procedure will be exactly the same. Try it and see if it works...if it doesn't, check w/ your dealer or Honda of Canada...someone somewhere within Honda will know the exact way to do it for an Accord. Hope this helps. Let us know how it goes.
Recently, I've noticed that the needle goes up after driving for a little while(20-30mis), especially when I stop before traffic lights. (the left fan in front of engine was changed a few months ago).
I've been driving like that for two months. I don't know what problem is. Thermostat or water pump? I appreciate it if you have any idea.
Comments
crus'n in 6th :shades: ,
MidCow
Julie
Mrbill
So we had it towed to a local honda dealer out there- (Sidenote- The warranty just went out last month). The service manager called us on Saturday and told us that we needed a new computer- that it was ruined from the leak- which he could not find.
So now we have a rental car here in PA and have to go back to Ohio to get our car- whenever the computer comes in and they find the problem.
My question- other than wondering if anyone else has experienced this- is should we keep the car?
It has always been my belief that once something has water damage- that you should get rid of it while it still has some value. There is water damage because now our entrire front passenger side is soaked through.
What do you think?
Thanks for your input! :confuse:
Could it have just been a leaky hose that squirted coolant all over the engine? A bad water pump? A hole in the radiator? The type of "water damage- that you should get rid of it while it still has some value" would normally be associated only with a vehicle that was submerged, ala Hurricane Katrina.
The main thing is for the technicians to locate and remediate the leak. The Service Manager telling you that they could not find the leak, is totally unacceptable. A replacement computer could probably be located at a wrecking yard. However, replacing it and having it too get soaked, makes no sense. That's why the leak must be repaired first.
You've got a great car. Just have it repaired and it will last you many more thousands of miles.
If your car was seriously flooded, where it sat in water that was high enough to enter the car, I would be worried. If the water damage was localized to just the passenger side, then the damage should be minimal and I would not be concerned.
Have you checked with your insurance? I don't know if they would cover non-flood water damage, but it can't hurt to ask.
Mrbill
I think my concern is more with the fact that water got into something. I just was under the impression that something like this usually is the start of more problems.
We are waiting to hear back from the Honda Corp. in regards to what they are going to do for us.
It just sucks when you think you have something nice and this happens.
All I know is that I am extremely disappointed by this.
1> Was there any odor in the car from this "water"? (Engine coolant has a "sweet" odor from the ethylene glycol.)
2> If yes, has the coolant ever been changed out in this car, and, if so, what kind was used?
(It seems like a burst heater core is a real possbility from the sparse information you gave. The wrong or too weak a concentration of antifreeze might've lead to sufficient corrosion in the thin heater core tubes to result in a pinhole rupture. With ~17lbs. of internal pressure, it wouldn't take long to make an expensive mess. Dunnno specifically about previous generation Honda Accords, but many cars tuck their ECMs somewhere in the dash maze, so it might've been sprayed.)
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=817-1409-GR-2V-D&category=15- &lpage=none&bc=c
I drove to manahatten on the nj tpk and george washington bridge yesterday, and for the first time, not one noise from the car!
Besides the run channels and stuff the dealer canf ix, the problem involves the tight fit of the doors compressing the thin seals. I think its more of a rubber on metal squeak than rubber on rubber. Sounds like a new source of rubber is warented, silicone impreganted?
The tch said he hadnt seen another complaint........makes me want to laugh..........
Over the weekend my daughter was visiting from out of town, drove the car all day and left the car parked in the garage for the night with the HAND BRAKE engaged, something that I haven't done for years...
The next morning there was a PUDDLE on the floor, right under the ABS Module. I had to add brake fluid to the reservoir again.
The next 2 mornings there was not a drop visible on the garage floor, and the reservoir is full.
Something is leaking in the system around the ABS Module, but the mystery is -- my mechanic can't understand why would it leak so much more -- when the HAND BRAKE is engaged... There isn't supposed to be any connection between the two, is there?
If there was no odor and no greenish color, than it has nothing to do with your engine's coolant/antifreeze. I presume that your windshield washer fluid has a blue tint. If that is the case, and the water that you mentioned was not blue, than you don't have a washer fluid leak. If it didn't smell like gasoline, that fluid must be ruled out. There are no other non-motor oil, non-power steering or non-braking system fluids in a modern automobile
The only two possible other reasons for a clear non-odoriferous liquid to be in your car are:
1. A liquid carried into your vehicle by a passenger (water, soda, etc.)
OR
2. Water from a hose, rain, puddles, a car wash, etc.
My bet is on number 2 as the cause of your problem.
I'm new to this (or any) forum, but I needed to ask a question of a large Honda audience. My 1999 Accord LX has a manual transmission, a 2.3 liter four cylinder engine and about 55,800 miles on it. I am the original owner and it has been dealer serviced according to Honda's schedule. It recently developed a rattle when I engaged the clutch. It went right in for service and was diagnosed as a bad clutch. The next day, when it went out for a road test, the original noise was even worse. The engine bearings were replaced and the dealer covered them as a "goodwill warranty" item, so I only (!!) paid for the clutch replacement. Nine (9) days after I got the car back, the noise returned. This time they replaced the short block which American Honda covered as a "goodwill warranty" issue, only charging me for the labor involved!! My questions follow: Should this engine have "died" at only 55,000 miles?? Does anyone have any similar experiences with this engine?? Should I have any confidence in this rebuilt engine?? Thanks!!
What I find interesting is the dealer 1st changed the bearings, then put in a short block when the noise returned in a few days. If they diagnosed the problem correctly, made sure the crank was in spec before they replaced the bearings, and more importantly, you had correct oil pressure with the new bearings, then the new bearings should have lasted. Smells fishy to me!!
Rebuilt engines can be as good as a new engines if done correctly. Engines are constantly rebuilt in larger trucks and busses, giving them as much life as when they were new. Give it a try, keep an eye on oil usage, and listen for noisy bearings esp. when first starting the car in the morning, if it doesn't rattle, it doesn't burn oil, you should be just fine.
Mrbill
guess my only concerns now are if the antifreeze made it past the piston rings as that will spell disaster later.
the gasket set itself goes for $140 dollars at the parts store.
now im contemplating wether to patch it up and get er runnin again...
or make a few modification befor i slap her back together.
Mrbill
My dissatisfaction with the '04 Accord started on day two of ownership when I was greeted by a loud rattle from the windshield...it was not sealed properly at the factory ( J vin#) but the dealer quickly repaired it, even paid for a rental car.
As an aside, my CD player has been skipping, stopping, sporadically after about 10 months of ownership. I've lived with it for so long 'cause it was sporadic but I figured I better get it looked at before the warranty expires. Service mgr didn't even question me, said he would order me a new one and it should arrive next week.
That service mgr is the main reason I'm holding on to the Accord '04 despite the obvious quality problems with this unit. Admittedly the problems are not horrendous and I've yet to be stranded by it the thing but even the most avid honda fan , such as myself, has to admit this car has been a bit of a disappointment. I was going to look at Acura's as a future replacement but I'm definately re-thinking that decision.
I shoulda went for the cr-v....my wife has one and we both love it. It's everything I would expect a honda should be.....no strange creaks, cd player doesn't skip, feels solid as a rock.
Just do what I did to the run channel, you will never hear the rattling noise again!
It's a simple fix.
I'm thinking of the mechanics of rear drum brakes and emergency brake being applied, it may also apply to 4 wheel disk brakes, but I haven't seen the setup on the Accord yet.
When you pull the emergency brake, it mechanically pulls a cable which pulls a lever that moves the shoes. It may be putting a little back pressure on the brake cylinder which in turn pressurizes the fluid a little, which in turn is leaked out.
Again, I'm making a guess, I would really have to watch the mechanics to see if it truly doing this.
Mrbill
Question ... the Honda dealer where I bought the car has a service schedule of every 3750 miles. I don't have a problem with changing the oil every 4000 miles, but for everything else, which schedule should I be going by? It seems that I will be doing more than required service work going by the dealer's schedule.
Your DEALER did not engineer, design, test, or manufacture your Honda automobile. I'd suggest that you rely on the information provided by the manufacturer in your Owners Manual's Maintenance Schedule.
The dealer stands to make lots of money selling unneccessary services to unwary customers.
I am sure you can find it at Home depot.
Not only the window rattling noise goes away, the wind noise disappears too.
This might me a misunderstanding. Only the FIRST, INITIAL oil change should be done at 3,750 miles. After that you go with the 5 or 10,000 interval.
I, personally, would go with the 5,000 interval.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My old Accord has 4 wheel discs. I would guess that if applying the hand brake puts some hydrolic pressure on the system (seems as if on this model the ABS hydrolic line is part of the brake system hydrolic line, right?), than the fluid might look for a weak spot to escape.... Apparently that weak spot is some loose connection under my ABS Module (which was replaced some 4 years ago)....
Thanks,
Thanks.
And do you have a test track in your back yard?
Read the owner's manual--that's what it's for and it says nothing about any 3,750.
My '04 EX-L (4 cyl.) owner's manual says 10,000 miles OR ONE YEAR under "normal" conditions.
You may drive under "Normal" condition, but my wife drives 2.5 miles to work every morning... That's called "Severe" driving condition.
Under "Severe" driving you're supposed to start with your first oil change at 3,750 or 6 month, whichever comes first.
I don't have the manual handy, but you can check this official Honda site:
http://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/Maintenance/maint_schedule.asp
And mamamia2, no, the dealer was recommending oil and filter change every 3750 miles. And they were recommending the 10,000 mile service in the Honda manual at 7500 miles. They did have a disclaimer that their recommended service might not reflect that of American Honda.
http://members.cox.net/mkebay/honda_tsb_a04-027.pdf
TSB's date was July 9, 2004. The problem has long been recognized by HOA. No reason why dealers should be charging owners when HOA is footing the bill. Out-of-warranty cases simply require the dealer to request the "District Parts and Service Manager" or the "Zone Office" for a goodwill replacement.
I have a 2005 Accord Coupe 4 cyl that I bought about 2 months ago. I have been averaging between 26-27 mpg in stop and go freeway driving and surface streets. I live in Southern California so I rarely get to drive on an open freeway. This last week I have used my defroster for most of the way to work. My mpg dropped to about 23.5 mpg. Is it because I am using the defroster, and that activates the air conditioner?
I read in past posts about switching the a/c off during defroster mode. What I am not understanding is why does the a/c need to be on during defrost? Does the defrost work better with a/c on in cold climates, where it snows? Does the a/c need to be on for the type of weather that we have in southern California?
I appreciate any and all info. Thanks, Lea
I have a 91 accord too, the distributor was R/R feb 02....recently I started tracking down significant oil leaks under the distributor and elsewhere...after replacing the Oil pan gasket, the old-brittle O-ring on the distributor and checking the torque on other bolts I found one leak remained....the oil is leaking THROUGH the distributor - leaks out at the bottom edge between the cap and distributor body. My question can this type of leak be fixed without R/R the distributor ( cost $269.00 two + years ago)...stillgoing
Below is a paste from another Accord site from about 1 year ago. This process seemed to turn off the automatic A/C in defrost mode with my 03 V6 Accord. But, I had to do it more than once.
Hey IMIS...there is "fix" for this annoyance. I don't know if it will be the same for your Accord, but, here is the way to do it in a 2001-current Civic(Canadian Acura EL):
1. Car is in off position.
2. Turn both the fan control knob and the temperature control knob all the way to the left (counterclockwise)
3. Press on BOTH the recirculate button and the a/c button
4. Turn the car on while holding these two buttons in...hold for about 7 seconds.
This procedure has worked in my '01 Civic Ex Coupe and my new '04 Civic Si...even though the manual for my Si says that the a/c can't be turned off when it's set to the defrost mode. I know that the HVAC/Stereo controls are different and more hi-tech in the Accord so I don't know if your procedure will be exactly the same. Try it and see if it works...if it doesn't, check w/ your dealer or Honda of Canada...someone somewhere within Honda will know the exact way to do it for an Accord. Hope this helps. Let us know how it goes.
Recently, I've noticed that the needle goes up after driving for a little while(20-30mis), especially when I stop before traffic lights. (the left fan in front of engine was changed a few months ago).
I've been driving like that for two months. I don't know what problem is. Thermostat or water pump? I appreciate it if you have any idea.
Thanks.
shadingding2