"If the problem is that the balancer belt is off, would that have a code come up with a computer diagnostic? Also, is it a pretty easy thing to fix or is it a very pricey thing to correct?"
As to your first question, probably not since a simple balance shaft matter is not related to ECU control of emissions or general engine performance. Getting to the balance shafts belt involves much the same work as accessing the timing belt with commensurately similar labor charges. If it were me, I'd have the Honda dealership which did the timing belt and balance shafts belt replacements do the tear-down. (There're actually two balance shafts which counter-rotate. If either is out of sync, mucho vibration.) Check your work order receipt to verify whether the balance shaft belt was replaced. If it turns out the dealership's brainiacs "timed" the balance shafts belt incorrectly, you'd have every reason to expect the repair to be done without charge. Take your complaint straight to the dealership's general manager - he has the power to over-rule the service manager and make things happen. If it turns out that it's their mistake, then it's their problem. If necessary, take 'em to small claims court.
For that "window tapping" noise, you might want to check that it isn't the front headrests vibrating in their holders. I had this clicking noise near my left ear that I thought was coming from the B pillar, and it was the headrests. I placed clear tape around the steel posts, and noise went away.
I'm experiencing the door thing too ... sort of a rubbing sound.
I have a question for you. You mentioned no dealership will admit to knowledge of this issue, with reference to a TSB. Do you have a TSB number that you are referring to? What was the TSB that was distributed to Honda's service departments, and when?
DId you find that the interior rattling issues had a big impact in trade-in value? I'm trying to get some idea of its impact as I work through Honda and the BBB.
One problem is that I've already gone to Honda to have the timing belt checked since another mechanic at Midas told me it was the timing belt being off that causes the vibration. Another poster on here tells me the problem could be the balance belt. So I'd like to take it to Honda to have them check it out, but they already chared me $90 the first time for looking into the timing belt being the cause. I honestly don't know if it's a problem and they just chose to tell me it was ok so they wouldn't have to repair the car for nothing. Another potential problem could be that I had the work done at a Honda in a different city than the one I currently live in. I really would want to have that checked because I feel that must be the cause of the vibration. What sort of potential problems could this create, the longer it goes unchecked?
Just my opinion, but I would be suprised that rattles would effect trade in value of a car.
Most dealers look at age, overall condition, and miles on the car when offering a trade in value. I've witnessed them take the car for a short drive around the block, some have just drove the car thru their lot.
If they would complain of a rattle, I would be shocked. They realize that the car is used, and a rattle is nothing unusual.
Now is a rattle something that you should live with, I would have to say no. It will be interesting if the BBB is willing to go after a rattle, when they most likely have cases they feel take higher priority.
"What sort of potential problems could this create, the longer it goes unchecked?"
If the balance shafts are merely out of sync, maybe nothing other than the vibration aggravation. I'm still interested in whether the balance shaft belt was replaced by the dealership in the other city. Even if you neglected to keep your copy of the paperwork, the dealership would have the information in their computerized records. But I'm even more interested in whether you've noted any drop in performance and fuel economy since having the timing belt replaced. If so, the intake and/or exhaust valves may be mis-timed in relationship to the pistons' travel and that could have eventual mechanical consequences if it hasn't already.
I added Sirius to my 05 HAH by installing a Kenwood FM modulator to the OEM stereo and connecting the Kenwood Sirius tuner to the FM Modulator.
Any PNP Sirius tuner can be installed inside the Accord. Check out the Install Garage forum on Sirius Backstage (http://www.siriusbackstage.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=13). I think my install is buried on the 5th page back from the current front page.
This is an update on my case which I posted in message 12216. My original post was dated 21st September 2005 (the first day) so I will continue where I left off. The dealership was unable to trace the source of the problem even at the end of day 2 and the chief technician said it maybe a problem with the brake calipers. They had the calipers shipped overnight from Honda and installed the new calipers on Friday ( day 3). They then called me to inform me that the car was fixed and that I could go and pick it up. Before I took the car out of the dealership, I test drove the car but the noise was still there. I created a big fuss over it and the GM of the dealership and the salesperson took the car for a test drive without me. They come back claiming that the problem was solved. I told the GM to speak with the technician who was with me during the test drive and it was confirmed that the problem was not solved. I still took the GM for a test drive and showed him the noise. He was convinced.
He finally agreed to try and get me a replacement for the car. One week after my post on this forum I took delivery of my 2nd new car. Though it was not the same color as the first (san marino red), I do not think I settled for less since they replaced it with a black ( almost as good). As of today I have about 900 miles on the car. Last week I thought I heard the same noise with the 2nd car but I just finally gave up and decided that I will drive it for a week or two before I start to diagnose it again. I also think I have developed the rattle in the passenger side door when I have the window down. I am just not in mood for the frustration of discovering these problem, especially with such lousy weather. I am in NJ and its been raining for 7th straight day. I will start trying to check for the suspension noise again on this car soon. Wish me luck. :confuse:
Ive had my car in twice for identical problems with the driver door of my 04 accord 4dr lx. The honda tech claims it is an isolated incident. After they needlessly replaced the run channels and I brought the car back, they applied silicone spray to all the door body seals. The trick is to look for the small air holes along the top of the seal on the body and spray silicone into the internal void. Although it seems like the window or headliner, they insist it is the sound of the tubular seal rubbing against itself internally. Also the noise went away when the the window is cracked open as the window closed moves the top of the doorframe inwards a little. Anyway, the noise did go away to return 2 weeks later. Its especially evident in misty humid weather, kinda like a wiper blade squeaking. Now honda suggests using a graphite spray as it wont evaporate in time. I ordered a dry graphite spray that is used in airplanes and will report on the result. As the noise is right next to your ear, it can drive you nuts...............
Dear Tomliv - I have a similar issue. I bought 2005 Accord EX V6 in july... not even 3 months and the front passenger side and driver side windows started rattling. I kept telling myself that it's a new car and need time for the body to settle. Now less than 4 months old and the moon roof (on the left side) has started rattling :mad:. Mostly it starts when I hit the speed limit of over 40mph. It is extremely annoying. I like to drive in peace (without music) and this constant sound is driving me crazy. I am a big Honda fan and my old 1994 car (civic) was so good. All these defects are so disappointing . I wish that Honda reps would read all these forums and do something with these problems before there prestigious name starts going down. Please let us know what you find out from your latest appointment with the rep. Maybe I can do the same to get this problem fixed. Thanks!
ahhh yes... i was going to retract my statement of bad gasket but i just got near the computer just now. wasntt thinking clearly :confuse: i got up this morning and the car started just fine, first crank. but the rough idle was not gone and the smke has returned. the gasket is definitly bad small or large its got to be leaking coolent straight into the piston!! i forgot to check my codes though. was a little busy. i noted at least three codes though. not good!! ill post the codes tommorow.
a bad gasket causing compression loss would affect the engine through out its driving range though wouldnt it. so then what would cause my my intermiten power loss? cat was just checked. and found to be in good condition unless it can burn out in less than 3 days. and there really wernt any problems between then and yesterday.
Same thing with my Pontiac Sunbird. Leaking head gasket, white smoke coming out of the tailpipe, losing power. I don't think the car can run over 50 mph.
Maybe it wouldn't affect a dealer trade-in value ... I don't know, which is why I was asking. It would CERTAINLY affect my offering price if I drove a relatively new car with very little else wrong.
The BBB has opened a case for me, and someone from Honda Mediation called and left a message. It will be interesting to see what happens.
Sorry to hear it is the head gasket. I was going to say to check your overflow tank, I'll bet thats near empty (coolent coming from there until it runs dry)
My guess is your intermittent problem will become a constant problem with time. As the head and block heat up, the leak could come an go, sediment in the coolent and loose pieces of the gasket could also act as a temporary plug. The spark plug could also be fouling out, and hard acceleration may just be cleaning off the plug with a wash of unburned gas, allowing it to fire again.
All that unburned fuel going into the exhaust isn't doing your new cat any good.
The rear struts are blown (air escaping) on my '03 EXV6 with 48k miles. The air leakage started around 36-40k as a slight hiss and now they are shot. I tried to get Honda to replace as a freewill but no luck. They wouldn't even meet me half way on the price.
The front tie rod bushings are shot and the associated steering column rattle is worsening.
The total estimate for the work is $900 with tax (rear struts & tie rod bushings). I declined the repair and need to dump this lemon before the tranny fails (next).
So glad I didn't buy a useless extended warranty because none of these repairs are covered.
How do you know the repairs are not covered under EW? If you have bought the EW, the repair costs would have paid for the EW itself. Struts are parts of suspension. Tie rod busings are parts of steering system. And they are all covered under chassis category!
I know they lube the sunroof rubber with silicone also. Its a hard to find vasaline consistancy type. Im not familiear with the sunroofs though.The main point with the windows is that it disappears when the window is cracked open? I was sure it was a window rattle as well, exept that the tech showed me how a rubber sqweak could also sound like a creak or rattle. Right in the top fo the window frame back by the B pillar? I am hoping that the Graphite that Honda suggested (but doesnt have!) will work.....................the main thing is that I detect some sort of corprate culture that has Honda Techs denying problems exist. They told me that there was no current fix available for the window creaking! The tech just told me about the graphite as a freind.
Checking on the HondaCare site for what's covered, there is a line saying:
"Suspension, Steering and Brake System"
------ Well.... that's NOT what I'd expect to see before making a decision.... "Brake System" is a very general description I'd say, does is cover Rotors? Calipers? Brake Pads (of course, not)?
So WHERE do you get a DETAILED LIST of what's covered under the extended warranty? Any educated consumer would expect to see that list first, before purchasing it....
Rotors, Drums, Shoes, and Pads are wear & tear items. They are not covered. Calipers, yes!! Before purchasing an EW, there is a list of components covered and NOT covered by EW (on the contract) given out by the dealer. If one is not sure, ask.
I have a 99 Accord. The roads were all flooded pretty bad, and I had to drive thru it. I didn't know how deep it was, then the light changed and I had to sit in the waters a few min. The car started vibrating viciously, I felt it and heard it. Light changed and I drove thru, it kept vibrating like crazy every min. I turned off the heat and it continued. Finally it stopped vibrating but as soon as I turn on the defrost/heat it'll vibrate again. I let it sit over night and started it, let it warm up and started the heat. It didn't vibrate. Then I drove it around the block, started the heat and it vibrated viciously again!! I was told as long as water didn't get in the exhaust, but I'm thinking it probably did. Does anyone know of these symptoms or any cure? Please help me!! So upset! I was hoping it'll dry out and be ok. I know if I take it to the mechanics they'll tell me some insane expensive fix.....especially being that I'm a girl. Please help!!! Thank you
just returned from a trip across country on the trip from ny to california i had regular 5w-20 oil and did not burn a drop whole in cal had the oil changed with synthetic mobil 1 5w-20 got to texas needed a quart of oil is it ok to go to 5w-30 instead of 20 on my 6cyl accord and why with the synthetic did i have to add a quart
If your car stayed running, no water should have made it into the exhaust, even if it did, it would have to travel quite a ways till it reached the engine where damage may occur.
Your saying that just turning on the heat makes the car vibrate?? Where does the vibration feel like its coming from, engine, interior? does the car have to be moving to vibrate? when you say heat, are you also turning on the defrost where the A/C is kicking in?
I've seen articles that using synthetic oil in older cars, or switching in cars with higher miles may have problems.
I don't remember everything in the article, but I do remember the comment that seals and gaskets may not hold as well when switching, so you may be leaking the oil and not burning it.
Ok, I just located the paperwork and it turns out the Honda dealership in the other city did do the balancer belt. The work order shows the timing belt, balancer belt, water pump and engine drive belts all were done on this day. So now, how do I get Honda to look again at something they claim wasn't messed up in the first place? I'm inclined to believe it must be the balancer belt since I've gone and fixed everything else they claimed was the problem and the vibration still occurs. I can't really say if I noticed any drop in performance and fuel economy since having the timing belt replaced. Just the vibration problem. Any tips of how to have Honda fix what I believe to be their screw up would be really helpful. Thanks!
"Sorry to hear it is the head gasket. I was going to say to check your overflow tank, I'll bet thats near empty (coolent coming from there until it runs dry)"
Not always - if the head gasket's blown and leaking vacuum during engine cool-down, drawdown from the coolant recovery tank could be affected because cool-down may just be drawing against the leaking head gasket(s) without affecting the liquid level in the coolant recovery tank at all. It's worth checking, but a normal level in the coolant recovery tank wouldn't be proof of healthy head gasket(s).
"All that unburned fuel going into the exhaust isn't doing your new cat any good."
True, but the potential expense of a new catalytic converter may be the least of kazuma1's problems. Two additional points:
1> When the igniition system's misfiring, there's unburned fuel being pushed past the piston rings during the compression stroke directly into the oil sump as an unwanted oil diluent. 2> There's also coolant being drawn into the cylinders during the intake stroke because of the leaking head gasket(s) and then pushed past the piston rings during the compression stroke, too, into the oil sump as per above. These two contaminants result in a lube oil witch's brew due to partially oxidized fuel fragments - just increasingly collecting to react in the oil and form sludge.
Result? BIG trouble. In addition to the problem I described, antifreeze glycols are both extremely corrosive and erosive to bearings due to their ability to mix with both oil and water. Even a little glycol content in the oil is a bad near-term thing. kazuma1's being hit with a triple whammy that'll cost him big time if this problem continues unchecked much longer. Submitting a sample of the current oil for a $20.00 analysis would prove beyond a doubt whether there's antifreeze contamination in the motor oil. (Do a search for "Blackstone Laboratories" if you're interested, kazuma1.
I mentioned the overflow tank being empty only because he didn't see a drop in coolent when he checked the radiator. When he said white smoke, I assumed it had to be a head gasket, so it had to be coming from somewhere.
Hopefully not too many miles and time has passed, and all it would need is the gasket.
A good friend of mine has picked up a few Ford Freestars that had blown head gaskets, a half a days work, and he was able to turn them back into good runners again with just a gasket.
I'm not at all sure Honda's involved since your problem seems to be a dealer service technician error. If your car's still under warranty, you can contact Honda corporate in the U.S. if you want to, but you'll probably need to resolve the issue at the local level with that out-of-town Honda dealer. Just don't hesitate to go over the service writer's or service department manager's head. Hang onto the paperwork like a leech. If the dealer wants to make copies, fine - but don't let your copies out of your sight. Best to just scan it all and make copies they can have. The paperwork is probably the key to a successful small claims court decision if it comes to that. I know not all dealers of any make are perfect, but until proved otherwise, I believe Honda dealers are by-and-large very interested in maintaining a positive image with their customers. Don't be at all surprised if the dealer takes care of the problem without any hassles. Just be prepared.
The dealer told me that shocks, struts, bushings, ball joints, etc are wear items not covered under extended Honda warranty.
I am trying another dealer to see if they will goodwill these items or at least give a heavy discount. The place I take it to now just went through a major staff and management change.
48k is too early for these items to fail. I think most people buy Hondas for reliability, I know they are not perfect but this is ridiculous.
"If you have bought the EW, the repair costs would have paid for [by] the EW itself. Struts are parts of suspension. Tie rod busings are parts of steering system. And they are all covered under chassis category!"
That would be nice if it's true, but the reality is that the EW, itself, would have to be reviewed for listed exclusions. "The devil's in the details."
My car was on definitely, but I was sitting in that deep water waiting on the dumb light to hurry and change. The water I can't be exact how deep but I do believe deep enough to the exhaust. Let me repharse that, turning on anything to do with the vent makes this really awful vibration......noise and feel. Whether I turn on the defrost with the AC or turn on just the heat, as soon as I turn something to do with the vents it'll happen. The car can be sitting parked or in motion and it'll still have that terrible vibration with any vent attempts. The extreme vibration is not inside the car, its almost definitely coming from under the hood. (You can tell how much I know about car mechanism) I would have no clue what exactly but definitely under the hood. Its not a slight vibration its a really awful one. That's why its so upsetting. Any ideas or fixes?? =(
I'm somewhat at a loss why turning on just the heater causes vibration under the hood. With the heater fan running, the only association is more current draw from the alternator, which does load down the engine more.
Turning on the heater fan w/ A/C would turn on the compressor which is belt driven, again loading down the engine more.
here is something to try.
Turn on the ignition, but don't start the car. Turn on the heater fan and see if you hear the vibration. If it's there, then the only thing that could be going on is for some reason the fan itself is vibrating. Maybe something fell into the fan, throwing it off balance and vibrating. I once had a mouse that decided to make his home in the squirrell cage fan in my old 88 Accord. That really made it vibrate. What is puzzling is the fan is located in the passenger area, just behind the glove box. Again, if it does vibrate, your problem is with the fan itself.
Another thing that could be going on under the hood would be if you hear the vibration while the A/C or defrost is ON, or the engine is up to temperature and the fans are turning on. There may be something that was washed up into the area where the 2 electric fans are located just behind the radiator. You will easily see them just by looking under the hood, maybe a foot or so in from the front of the bumper. Just look, DONT reach down there!! You don't want the fans to turn on and you get caught. Do you see anything that doesn't look like it doesnt belong? If so, wait till the car has set overnight, making sure the engine is cold, before you reach down there and remove whatever may have wash up and wrapped around one of the fans.
Another possibility with the fans again would be something was washed up, caught one of the fans and damaged or broke off one of the blades. That would throw it off balance and cause a good vibration. Again when the engine is cold, you can turn the fans by hand looking for a missing or bent blade.
I agree that the thump feels just like the thump you sometimes feel when you turn on the climate control/ac. I am aware of that from driving several cars and would assume that is normal.
However, I have been feeling the same thump under the same conditions that everyone has posted here and I know it is not because of the ABS self test or the climate control/ac. I even make sure my cc/ac is off before turning my car off. This thump may feel similar but it is not caused due to the same two conditions you have described and it is definitely not normal to me. First, I have an 05 ex v6 coupe barely 4 months old. It is quite akward and bothersome to experience this problem even if it seems minor because it is a new car and its a Honda.
Second, I just brought in my Accord for its first oil change today and decided to address the problem along with my other problem with the brakes grinding. (I love the Accord, this is my first but I am a bit disappointed already) I got it back and they resurfaced my rotars for the barking concern and as for the "thump" they decided to rotate my tires as the solution to that concern. Honestly, I don't think it will solve the thump but at the same time I haven't had a chance to drive it enough given that this "thump" happens randomly.
I hope to find out exactly what is going on then to just have someone tell me that its nothing because it is and its not normal.
I don't think you will get a goodwill out of this repair. You are 12K miles over the 36K basic warranty. If you are a little over 3 yrs, but less than 36K miles, you have a better chance.
beyond 48k miles. But how do you wear those items out so fast? I haven't seen other Accords with this issue. Rrear brake pads maybe. But tie rod ends? As far as the struts though....I'd take that as a perfect opportunity to get a nice set of springs and high performance struts. Forget the OEM I'd get some nice Eibachs and Koni's.
I have a '04 Accord EX 4cyl auto. I checked my transmission fluid level and noticed that I cannot insert the transmission fluid dipstick completely into the transmission fluid tube--the dipstick sticks out about 1/4". I applied significant pressure to see if I can get that remaining 1/4" of the dipstick into the tube, but it just won't go all the way in. The manual (page 218) says that the transmission fluid dipstick is supposed to go back completely into the tube--do you think something is wrong with my dipstick and/or transmission fluid tube or if this is normal? thanks in advance.
Is this the FIRST time you've checked the Trans fluid?...
I would suspect that there is some dirt accumulated there. I know the dipstick fits in really TIGHT, so even with just a tiny bit of dirt, it would not go in. Try cleaning it with some cloth.
Comments
As to your first question, probably not since a simple balance shaft matter is not related to ECU control of emissions or general engine performance. Getting to the balance shafts belt involves much the same work as accessing the timing belt with commensurately similar labor charges. If it were me, I'd have the Honda dealership which did the timing belt and balance shafts belt replacements do the tear-down. (There're actually two balance shafts which counter-rotate. If either is out of sync, mucho vibration.) Check your work order receipt to verify whether the balance shaft belt was replaced. If it turns out the dealership's brainiacs "timed" the balance shafts belt incorrectly, you'd have every reason to expect the repair to be done without charge. Take your complaint straight to the dealership's general manager - he has the power to over-rule the service manager and make things happen. If it turns out that it's their mistake, then it's their problem. If necessary, take 'em to small claims court.
Mrbill
I'm experiencing the door thing too ... sort of a rubbing sound.
I have a question for you. You mentioned no dealership will admit to knowledge of this issue, with reference to a TSB. Do you have a TSB number that you are referring to? What was the TSB that was distributed to Honda's service departments, and when?
Thanks!
I really would want to have that checked because I feel that must be the cause of the vibration.
What sort of potential problems could this create, the longer it goes unchecked?
Most dealers look at age, overall condition, and miles on the car when offering a trade in value. I've witnessed them take the car for a short drive around the block, some have just drove the car thru their lot.
If they would complain of a rattle, I would be shocked. They realize that the car is used, and a rattle is nothing unusual.
Now is a rattle something that you should live with, I would have to say no. It will be interesting if the BBB is willing to go after a rattle, when they most likely have cases they feel take higher priority.
Mrbill
If the balance shafts are merely out of sync, maybe nothing other than the vibration aggravation. I'm still interested in whether the balance shaft belt was replaced by the dealership in the other city. Even if you neglected to keep your copy of the paperwork, the dealership would have the information in their computerized records. But I'm even more interested in whether you've noted any drop in performance and fuel economy since having the timing belt replaced. If so, the intake and/or exhaust valves may be mis-timed in relationship to the pistons' travel and that could have eventual mechanical consequences if it hasn't already.
Any PNP Sirius tuner can be installed inside the Accord. Check out the Install Garage forum on Sirius Backstage (http://www.siriusbackstage.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=13). I think my install is buried on the 5th page back from the current front page.
This is an update on my case which I posted in message 12216. My original post was dated 21st September 2005 (the first day) so I will continue where I left off. The dealership was unable to trace the source of the problem even at the end of day 2 and the chief technician said it maybe a problem with the brake calipers. They had the calipers shipped overnight from Honda and installed the new calipers on Friday ( day 3). They then called me to inform me that the car was fixed and that I could go and pick it up. Before I took the car out of the dealership, I test drove the car but the noise was still there. I created a big fuss over it and the GM of the dealership and the salesperson took the car for a test drive without me. They come back claiming that the problem was solved. I told the GM to speak with the technician who was with me during the test drive and it was confirmed that the problem was not solved. I still took the GM for a test drive and showed him the noise. He was convinced.
He finally agreed to try and get me a replacement for the car. One week after my post on this forum I took delivery of my 2nd new car. Though it was not the same color as the first (san marino red), I do not think I settled for less since they replaced it with a black ( almost as good). As of today I have about 900 miles on the car. Last week I thought I heard the same noise with the 2nd car but I just finally gave up and decided that I will drive it for a week or two before I start to diagnose it again. I also think I have developed the rattle in the passenger side door when I have the window down. I am just not in mood for the frustration of discovering these problem, especially with such lousy weather. I am in NJ and its been raining for 7th straight day. I will start trying to check for the suspension noise again on this car soon. Wish me luck. :confuse:
If you can find my post described how I fixed this problem, the noise will go away.
The noise is really annoying, I know.
a bad gasket causing compression loss would affect the engine through out its driving range though wouldnt it. so then what would cause my my intermiten power loss? cat was just checked. and found to be in good condition unless it can burn out in less than 3 days. and there really wernt any problems between then and yesterday.
The BBB has opened a case for me, and someone from Honda Mediation called and left a message. It will be interesting to see what happens.
My guess is your intermittent problem will become a constant problem with time. As the head and block heat up, the leak could come an go, sediment in the coolent and loose pieces of the gasket could also act as a temporary plug. The spark plug could also be fouling out, and hard acceleration may just be cleaning off the plug with a wash of unburned gas, allowing it to fire again.
All that unburned fuel going into the exhaust isn't doing your new cat any good.
Mrbill
The front tie rod bushings are shot and the associated steering column rattle is worsening.
The total estimate for the work is $900 with tax (rear struts & tie rod bushings). I declined the repair and need to dump this lemon before the tranny fails (next).
So glad I didn't buy a useless extended warranty because none of these repairs are covered.
If you have bought the EW, the repair costs would have paid for the EW itself.
Struts are parts of suspension. Tie rod busings are parts of steering system.
And they are all covered under chassis category!
"Suspension, Steering and Brake System"
------ Well.... that's NOT what I'd expect to see before making a decision.... "Brake System" is a very general description I'd say, does is cover Rotors? Calipers? Brake Pads (of course, not)?
So WHERE do you get a DETAILED LIST of what's covered under the extended warranty? Any educated consumer would expect to see that list first, before purchasing it....
Calipers, yes!!
Before purchasing an EW, there is a list of components covered and NOT covered by EW (on the contract) given out by the dealer. If one is not sure, ask.
I can't post the contract, but here's the link:
http://www.curryhondacare.com/coverage.cfm?CFID=529242&CFTOKEN=80822375
Your saying that just turning on the heat makes the car vibrate?? Where does the vibration feel like its coming from, engine, interior? does the car have to be moving to vibrate? when you say heat, are you also turning on the defrost where the A/C is kicking in?
Mrbill
I don't remember everything in the article, but I do remember the comment that seals and gaskets may not hold as well when switching, so you may be leaking the oil and not burning it.
Mrbill
So now, how do I get Honda to look again at something they claim wasn't messed up in the first place? I'm inclined to believe it must be the balancer belt since I've gone and fixed everything else they claimed was the problem and the vibration still occurs.
I can't really say if I noticed any drop in performance and fuel economy since having the timing belt replaced. Just the vibration problem.
Any tips of how to have Honda fix what I believe to be their screw up would be really helpful.
Thanks!
Not always - if the head gasket's blown and leaking vacuum during engine cool-down, drawdown from the coolant recovery tank could be affected because cool-down may just be drawing against the leaking head gasket(s) without affecting the liquid level in the coolant recovery tank at all. It's worth checking, but a normal level in the coolant recovery tank wouldn't be proof of healthy head gasket(s).
"All that unburned fuel going into the exhaust isn't doing your new cat any good."
True, but the potential expense of a new catalytic converter may be the least of kazuma1's problems. Two additional points:
1> When the igniition system's misfiring, there's unburned fuel being pushed past the piston rings during the compression stroke directly into the oil sump as an unwanted oil diluent.
2> There's also coolant being drawn into the cylinders during the intake stroke because of the leaking head gasket(s) and then pushed past the piston rings during the compression stroke, too, into the oil sump as per above. These two contaminants result in a lube oil witch's brew due to partially oxidized fuel fragments - just increasingly collecting to react in the oil and form sludge.
Result? BIG trouble. In addition to the problem I described, antifreeze glycols are both extremely corrosive and erosive to bearings due to their ability to mix with both oil and water. Even a little glycol content in the oil is a bad near-term thing. kazuma1's being hit with a triple whammy that'll cost him big time if this problem continues unchecked much longer. Submitting a sample of the current oil for a $20.00 analysis would prove beyond a doubt whether there's antifreeze contamination in the motor oil. (Do a search for "Blackstone Laboratories" if you're interested, kazuma1.
Hopefully not too many miles and time has passed, and all it would need is the gasket.
A good friend of mine has picked up a few Ford Freestars that had blown head gaskets, a half a days work, and he was able to turn them back into good runners again with just a gasket.
Mrbill
I am trying another dealer to see if they will goodwill these items or at least give a heavy discount. The place I take it to now just went through a major staff and management change.
48k is too early for these items to fail. I think most people buy Hondas for reliability, I know they are not perfect but this is ridiculous.
And they are all covered under chassis category!"
That would be nice if it's true, but the reality is that the EW, itself, would have to be reviewed for listed exclusions. "The devil's in the details."
yes all very good points about the now diluted oil sitting in my engine lol!
i havnt pulled it apart yet and will know more once i get the head off the block.
but im having some problems with the trouble codes.
codes are -- 1, 6, 12, and i believe 43 (i got 4 long lights then 3 short)
every ones input is greatly appriciated and thank you. im going to tear her down this weekend so ill post my findings monday.
-cs
Let me repharse that, turning on anything to do with the vent makes this really awful vibration......noise and feel. Whether I turn on the defrost with the AC or turn on just the heat, as soon as I turn something to do with the vents it'll happen. The car can be sitting parked or in motion and it'll still have that terrible vibration with any vent attempts. The extreme vibration is not inside the car, its almost definitely coming from under the hood. (You can tell how much I know about car mechanism) I would have no clue what exactly but definitely under the hood. Its not a slight vibration its a really awful one. That's why its so upsetting. Any ideas or fixes?? =(
Julie
Turning on the heater fan w/ A/C would turn on the compressor which is belt driven, again loading down the engine more.
here is something to try.
Turn on the ignition, but don't start the car. Turn on the heater fan and see if you hear the vibration. If it's there, then the only thing that could be going on is for some reason the fan itself is vibrating. Maybe something fell into the fan, throwing it off balance and vibrating. I once had a mouse that decided to make his home in the squirrell cage fan in my old 88 Accord. That really made it vibrate. What is puzzling is the fan is located in the passenger area, just behind the glove box. Again, if it does vibrate, your problem is with the fan itself.
Another thing that could be going on under the hood would be if you hear the vibration while the A/C or defrost is ON, or the engine is up to temperature and the fans are turning on. There may be something that was washed up into the area where the 2 electric fans are located just behind the radiator. You will easily see them just by looking under the hood, maybe a foot or so in from the front of the bumper. Just look, DONT reach down there!! You don't want the fans to turn on and you get caught. Do you see anything that doesn't look like it doesnt belong? If so, wait till the car has set overnight, making sure the engine is cold, before you reach down there and remove whatever may have wash up and wrapped around one of the fans.
Another possibility with the fans again would be something was washed up, caught one of the fans and damaged or broke off one of the blades. That would throw it off balance and cause a good vibration. Again when the engine is cold, you can turn the fans by hand looking for a missing or bent blade.
Good luck, hope this helps
Mrbill
However, I have been feeling the same thump under the same conditions that everyone has posted here and I know it is not because of the ABS self test or the climate control/ac. I even make sure my cc/ac is off before turning my car off. This thump may feel similar but it is not caused due to the same two conditions you have described and it is definitely not normal to me.
First, I have an 05 ex v6 coupe barely 4 months old. It is quite akward and bothersome to experience this problem even if it seems minor because it is a new car and its a Honda.
Second, I just brought in my Accord for its first oil change today and decided to address the problem along with my other problem with the brakes grinding. (I love the Accord, this is my first but I am a bit disappointed already) I got it back and they resurfaced my rotars for the barking concern and as for the "thump" they decided to rotate my tires as the solution to that concern. Honestly, I don't think it will solve the thump but at the same time I haven't had a chance to drive it enough given that this "thump" happens randomly.
I hope to find out exactly what is going on then to just have someone tell me that its nothing because it is and its not normal.
I would suspect that there is some dirt accumulated there. I know the dipstick fits in really TIGHT, so even with just a tiny bit of dirt, it would not go in. Try cleaning it with some cloth.
There is only one right way to go in, I think.