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Comments
I think I might have a similar problem. Over a couple of days my 94 2.0i Accord developed a strange knocking sound. It is intermittant and seems to occur when straightening after cornering. It doesn't happen all the time but normally occurs in 2nd gear at about 2000 rpm. The last work I had done on it was the offside CV boot 6months previously. When I looked under the car the new boot was fine but the nearside had gone completely. Having replaced that boot the problem still persists. I have just replaced the nearside CV joint as well but to no avail.
I am wondering if the knocking you experienced occured under similar circumstances and if you could feel the knocking through the floor? Similarly to how you describe your knocking, mine is not typical of CV joint failure...
If you or anyone else could help that would be very much appreciated.
Adam
How did it go with your CD player?
I just bought 2005 EX V6 sedan and have exactly the same problem with CD player—constant hissing sound. (I can not hear that when radio or XM radio is on.) It becomes more obvious between the tracks and with classical musics becuase they are usually recorded at lower volume.
I brought my car back to the dealer and their "audio expert" agreed that there is a significant interference. He ran a test CD, and detected the noise coming around 16 kHz~17 kHZ, which he said is near the upper limit of our hearing range (also a very annoying sound).
We also played the test CD in other 2005 V6 Accords. I could not believe that some Accords had an even higher noise level than mine! Based on this, the audio guy refused to fix my CD player because he thought the noise was inherent in all Accords. But just because every V6 Accord shares it does not mean their CD players are not defective. It's very frustrating that $25,000 car does not have a functional CD player. Also I have not noticed this noise in my friend's 2004 V6 Accord.
Does any other V6 owners have this sort of problem?
ANY SUGGESTION? I need your advice!
Thank you.
J.R.
Just remove the glove box - the motor and squirrel cage are located on the evaporator/heater core case with three bolts. Remove the electrical connector before you loosen the motor.
Heather
I also have an '05 EX AT 4cyl with almost 4k miles and noticed the same sensitive brakes you describe. It is worse when the brakes are cold in the morning when I try to maneuver in my garage. There has been several posts in this forum about this subject and the "nothing wrong" crowd thinks this is pretty normal and just a matter of the driver getting used to it (theory goes, the "complainers" are too used to driving cars with not as good brakes as the Accord, and therefore when they drive the Accord they will feel the brake as being too sensitive). After almost 4k miles I still have to be extra careful when I first drive my car out of the garage when in addition to the cold brakes, the engine is also cold, which makes the RPM to be high. But I guess an over reaction (the car stops abruptly) is better than an under reaction (your car hits something).
I don't really have any suggestions on how to deal with this other than be extra careful. Maybe after a while the brakes will "settle in" and stop being as sensitive. Or maybe, as other posters have suggested, we'll just get used to it.
Tires classified as 'touring' tend to have smaller grooves and therefore are quieter. They also have softer rubber and ride pretty well.
Performance tires have larger grooves which makes more noise. They are also made from harder rubber so they don't flex too much when the driver turns a corner fast, and this gives them a harder ride.
If you tires are making you unhappy, have them balanced and make sure the tire pressure is correct.
Call the Tire Rack for more info.
This roaring noise is very annoying ...any feedback pls????"
My '96 Accord came with Michelin "MXV4+" tires. They were very noisy, but they wore like iron. My replacement car, an '03 Hyundai Sonata, also came with the same series Michs. Same problem. They're good for fuel economy because they have medium-stiff sidewalls and an easy-rolling "hard" tread compound. For general use, they're adequate if you're deaf and enjoy the visceral thump of every little road imperfection. (I don't) Performance tires actually use a quite stiff sidewall compound for stability, but a much softer than typical tread compound for its superior adhesion during "spirited maneuvering". They represent the worst of all possible comfort worlds - they ride like cast pig iron but also wear disproportionately faster. (Often only 20,000 miles to replacement) When my wife's '00 Cavalier needed to be re-shod, I picked up a set of Uniroyals at Wal-Mart (they were c-h-e-a-p). These are surprisingly quiet riding, comfortable tires (even inflated to 34 lbs), and after a year of use, show very little wear. (Her original equipment Goodyear tires were also harsh and noisy.) I'm almost tempted to throw in the towel and replace my Michs with a set of the Uniroyals on my Sonata. The only thing stopping me is my intention to replace my Sonata in late '08 with a new Accord (well that, and my intrinsically c-h-e-a-p nature). I've read that Continental makes some quiet, comfortable tourers, too. They're not exorbitantly priced, either - unusual considering Continental is a German company.
Fifth generation Accords were built for the 1993 through 1997 model years.
Sixth generation Accords were built for the 1998 through 2002 model years.
Seventh generation Accords, the current ones, were built starting with the 2003 models, and will probably be built through the 2007 model year.
Yours is two generations old. How can your comment apply to anyone considering purchasing a modern vehicle?
Replacing the LED should also not be a hard task for anyone with some time and basic electronics knowledge.
Otherwise, go get an aftermarket stereo. But if you like what you have, I'd recommend the neighborhood electronics shop.
Meanwhile, let the majority of owners continue to enjoy their accords like I do my 1990....yes, gasp...over 15 years old.
When you say it's been in the shop every three months...since when? Since you bought it? Within the last year? Or what? And if it's been since you bought, I'd question why you waited so long to get rid of it.
thank you
shifty the host
I couldn't start my 89LXi this morning. This is the second time in 17 years it failed to start. On the first crank. the engine turned. But after that, it was just dead silent. It must be the battery. Will test the battery when I get home today.
And there was no warnings. The car ran fine last night.
Bryan
Kevin
Since the car is a 15 year old quarter-plus-million-miler, I'd think it's earned the right to be a little creaky-squeaky. My best guess is the rubber bushings in the suspension have deteriorated and are binding against the metal pieces to which they're fit. They can be replaced, but it's a labor intensive task ("labor" is $pelled: $$$) since all the pieces have to be completely disassembled, the old bushings (or what's left of 'em) removed, new ones installed, and everything re-assembled and the front end realigned. You might achieve some cheap temporary relief by squirting a small amount of brake fluid at the offending bushings when you identify them from underneath by having a helper lightly jounce the car. (The glycols in brake fluid are effective rubber lubes.) Might also mention to your helper that since you're gonna be under the vehicle, you'd appreciate it if he/she takes it easy before you start...) If the brake fluid has any effect at all, it'll probably take at least several days to be evident. !!DO NOT USE MOTOR OIL OR SOLVENTS!! Also, avoid getting brake fluid on the car's paint. The stuff's a fantastic paint remover. (Actually for model rairoaders who restore old American Flyer, Marx, and Lionel equipment, brake fluid is the ideal paint remover for polystyrene plastic - softens and removes paint without attacking the plastic.)
Thanks.