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Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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    ryan76ryan76 Member Posts: 2
    Please let me know what you find out because my Accord is past its warranty period. I still may take it to the dealer to have them work on it but it would be nice to know what happens in your situation. I've taken it to my local mechanic to see if he could figure it out and since the problem comes and goes from time to time it was hard for him to diagnose what was happening. As you would guess it did it only once while he had it and as soon as he restarted the car it didn't happen again. I'm so utterly frustrated with Honda over the crap that has gone wrong with this car...I'd expect it from a domestic vehicle but not a Honda. I totally have a sour taste in my mouth!
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    hondatech1hondatech1 Member Posts: 6
    hey it sounds excessive road force on a tire try to rotate your tires see if the noise changes
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    hondatech1hondatech1 Member Posts: 6
    do u place anything on your pass side seat if u do it can cause the lite to go on. it think a child is on the seat
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    ronsteveronsteve Member Posts: 1,195
    Gwen,

    Last post tells me you're around 25 mpg, which if you're driving mostly in the city is right on target for that car. Couldn't hurt to continue to track your fuel mileage for a bit, just to get used to how it should behave. That gas gauge will drop from 3/4 to 1/2 in a real hurry, but you'll get used to it. If you run it down farther, know that when the light comes on, you've got about 3 gallons left. I don't usually dare to try to pick too much of it up, and it's bad for the fuel pump to run it all the way down.

    As for "common repair issues" I haven't really heard of any. The V6/auto transmission issues were enough to "scare" me into getting an extended warranty on mine (I have the V6), but I've heard of no such problems with the 4-cylinder model. One piece of advice my brother gave me is to come to a complete stop before shifting from reverse to drive. Apparently, Honda transmissions are known to be a bit sensitive to that.

    One pet peeve: you won't find a "V4" in any car. If it's a 4-cylinder anymore, it's an inline-4, except for Subaru, which uses a flat-4 (or H4, or boxer, if you will).

    --Ron
    2015 Acura RDX AWD / 2021 VW TIguan SE 4Motion
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    enchiladaenchilada Member Posts: 40
    User777, I wish it was that I had jumped to conclusions, but I didn't. The car's problem has nothing to do with the passenger seat weight sensor. I just returned from the dealer who diagnosed the car with a faulty airbag system. They took it back in the shop to read the error codes. Indeed, the airbag system is faulty. They said the driver's airbag is "not receiving a signal." They don't know if it's a sensor or a short, but it would not have deployed in an accident. As you might imagine, I'm very disappointed that a crucial safety system has failed and the car isn't even a month old.

    They are going to see if there are any new, related TSBs on the car.

    FYI the light is the one on the speedometer cluster (red).
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    enchiladaenchilada Member Posts: 40
    Thanks, will do. It's very disheartening to have a brand new car experience a safety problem - particularly when it's your wife who's at risk. If we were talking about a Fiat or something, I'd expect it...but I bought a Honda so I wouldn't have to worry about her safety.
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    momshondamomshonda Member Posts: 1
    My 78 year old mother bought a 2004 V6 Accord coupe last September. She just called to say she was stuck this afternoon with the car engine on, couldn't move the steering wheel and could not get the car out of park. She said she's been having the problem intermittently for the last month.
    She had the car hauled to the dealer! Guess I'll be calling the dealer on Monday. This is not going over well with her... Imagine.... She saved really long for this car. I live 4 hours away and I'm hoping for a miracle with this one. I'll keep you posted on the outcome from the dealer.
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    shmoozooshmoozoo Member Posts: 2
    Whats up fritz1224. This is my first time on this site. While I was skimming through looking for my answers, I saw your message. We had a Ford that had an airbag light stay on. Come to find out, the seatbelt clip had water in it. Theres an airbag sensor inside. Im not a mechanic, and you probably shouldnt mess with airbag sensors. I would try spraying the clip out with WD-40 which is non conductable, let it drain out and dry thoroughly. If that dosnt work, id have it replaced at the shop$$, which is the best thing to do. I hope this might help you.
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    shmoozooshmoozoo Member Posts: 2
    My employer had a problem with his vehicle that was similar. And it really ticked him off after all the work he did to find the problem. Im not talking Honda, so this might not apply. The car would not go into gear if a light was out. His was the brake lights, the fuse had blown. It was not intermittent, but a light bulb element braking loose might cause it. Some engineer is probably getting a real kick out of that one. Good luck!
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i'm sorry to hear that. maybe it's the clockspring in the steering column - a device that maintains continutity to steering wheel mounted switches (like the horn and radio / cruise controls) and the airbag as the wheel is turned from one extent to another.

    whatever - hopefully they can get it corrected quickly, and this is not an omen of problems to come.
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    lx_steallx_steal Member Posts: 45
    EZ job...less than one hour...
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    atlantabennyatlantabenny Member Posts: 735
    Howard,

    I installed a NAV unit in the center console using instructions related to Radio/HVAC modifications, so I have a pretty good idea of what's involved with the Radio/HVAC Unit replacement.

    BTW, that Unit was also recently replaced by my dealer for the same problem, with no post-work damage except for a part that wasn't secured tightly enough and which I took care of.

    On your concerns,

    1) Depending on the technician who gets the job ticket, the job could either be difficult and messy (if a first-timer who's not extra careful) or clean and tight (if someone has done it at least once before).

    I would show the service advisor the pre-work state of the Shift Surround Area, Coin Tray & Power Outlet unit, and Center Console Door and stress to him/her that they'll have to address any post-work scratches and damage.

    And let them decide who to assign to your car.

    2) How long will the replacement unit work ?

    I should have asked this question myself but didn't. However, the Service Advisor let me know they performed a "multiplex update" (which shows on the work order) in addition to the Radio/HVAC replacement.

    I suspect that the multiplex device is related to the backlight problem and if so, the fix may be long-term. Need to investigate further though.

    Hope this helps.
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    djsg143djsg143 Member Posts: 20
    My accord has some bump steer and for a while now the steering has become loose: too easy to turn, scares me on highways sometimes. :surprise:

    I was told that I could adjust a nut on the steering box to tighten it up, and I purchased a used rack as a precaution....

    but I can't find the box or the nut when under the car...can anyone help? so that way I can stop feeling like I'm driving a :lemon:
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    mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    It could be as simple as the plug at the back of the radio is loose, or it could be the radio itself has problems. Fuses are not intermittent, but it could be the radio is loosing power if something between the fusebox and radio is faulty.

    Since its an "90, your cheapest option if it is the radio probably would be picking one up from a salvage yard. I doubt that there is much of a demand for 15 year old radios, so they should be reasonably priced.

    There is always aftermarket radios, but that could involve more work.

    Mrbill
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Nope, wrong path, wrong advice IMO. You may indeed have a worn steering gear, which you can't "tighten", so forget that...or you may have other front end problems. First off you have to have the steering system checked from post to box to linkage, and the alignment especially checked. Bump steer can often be cured by alignment, and loose steering might be a tie rod or steering arm defect and have nothing to do with your steering box. I think you are jumping ahead of your problem.
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    leebyleeby Member Posts: 8
    Update: I just got my car 2 weeks later from the dealership. They put about 140 miles on it to figure out where the metallic rattle was coming from. They found that it happens at certain temperatures, mainly when the car is cooled down and then driven. There was two areas where they checked. First, was the heat shield near the cataylic converter. They adjusted it, but the rattle still existed. Second, they took apart the radio and center console and glove box out. They test drove it and pinpointed the rattle from metal plate that covers a computer box deep inside the dash somewhere behind the radio. They also put in a new vent on the passenger side and adjusted the plastic piece that covers the passenger door handle. The car is now rattle free. If anyone has the same type of rattle, ask your mechanic to look in this area before they start tearing apart your car. Hope this helps.
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    anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    Sounds like you have a great service department. Few dealers would go through that much trouble to locate an intermittent rattle.
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    leebyleeby Member Posts: 8
    I agree. They took care of me. They set me up with a decent rental for free. Great service team and technicians. If anyone in Oregon needs to get their Honda serviced or repaired, go to Thomason Honda in Gladstone.
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    hacrdhacrd Member Posts: 1
    Hello:

    I have an Honda Accord LX 1998 V4 4 door automatic transmission (purchased new) and having problems with my transmission (atleast that's what I have been told). The car has 67000 miles on it but I noticed the problem when it was 59000 miles.

    Here's the problem:

    The car starts smoothly but whenever I stop and go giving acceleration , there is always a jerk (in D4)initially. This happened on and off and now it is getting worse. Initially the Honda service technician said it is a "normal" problem that you get a jerk in the initial shift of the drive. They serviced the transmission (during 60K service) and didnt report any issue. I was not sure of the diagnosis and now in the next 8000 miles the problem is getting worse and the car will not accelerate after about 50 MPH and the "jerking" still continues. Now the dealer is saying the transmission will have to be replaced. I complained to American Honda cust service but they said they cannot do anything since it is out of warranty. I have followed the maintenance schedule that Honda suggests faithfully but really disappointed that it didnt take me anywhere especially with such a low mileage for a close to 7 1/2 year old car. My questions are:

    1) Has anyone had this type of problem before? If so, is this related to the automatic transmission?
    2) If it is a transmission issue, are there any things that can be checked by a technician before replacing the whole transmission? ( I saw just one discussion about flywheel being worn out that could cause this problem - if so, is this something easy to check?)
    3) Has anyone got anything out of Honda since I feel that this is a poorly manufactured factory part - If so, can someone pl. advise me the best way to take this further?
    4) Finally, if changing the auto transmission is the only way, what is the most economic and reliable way to do this - at a dealer or outside shops?

    This is a great discussion forum and the input would help me decide what I should do further. thanks.
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    anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    Honda has paid for replacement out of warranty. Call them back, calmly explain your situation. Tell them you have all of the service records and you know that Accord transmissions from other years are subject to a recall. Ask them what they are willing to do to keep you as a happy customer. Usually Honda will step up and help out with the repair. Just remember that you get more bees with honey.
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    driveitforeverdriveitforever Member Posts: 8
    Hi steven. I find your story intensely interesting, as I have been shopping for an Accord EX v6 with leather coupe and have experienced exactly your problem yesterday on a test drive. First I tried a manual 4 cyl. to see and it was smooth. I went to another dealer and tried a ex v6 with 22 miles and immediately noticed braking issues before i left the lot. Upon leaving the dealership, the accelleration was not good either, it was jerky and unstable. I was sadly disappointed because the car was gorgeous. I demanded to drive another car because that car performed so poorly. I think the assembly man who built the car may have been drunk or something, because the second car was a completely different animal. Acceleration was smooth, brakes were kinda hard-ish but still good. The first cars brakes scared me! The brakes responded and behaved very jerkily and suddenly on the first car. I wonder. Salesguy gave me the same story as you about the car sitting in the lot and stiffening up. I did not buy it. I think I am gonna drive like five more at least for further comparison. Go to another dealer to get them to fix it. Good luck! :cry:
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    doubleexdoubleex Member Posts: 8
    Sorry, I don't have an answer to this but I wanted to add some weight to "paint problems"

    I agree that stones fly off the road and trucks - fact of life. However I have two chips (right to the metal) - the first I got in less than 1000 miles and I just found a second at 3000. I also own a Taurus with 120,000 miles and, had a Honda Civic with 234,000 miles and another Accord with 90,000. They didn't chip like this. Same roads, same trucks, same stones - more miles.

    The salesman tried to sell me some "TuffGaurd" package when I bought the car but I thought it was just one of those high profit add-ons. Maybe not.

    Somethings up - wonder what it will look like at 200,000? :mad:
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    doubleexdoubleex Member Posts: 8
    This would be a good answer if you were responding to someone who has never owned a new car and driven on the road. Clearly a chip is caused by a stone or debris but the fact remains some paint jobs are less prone to chipping. Just because a stone hits your car - doesn't mean the paint has to pop off.

    People use forums like these to have quick access to other people's experience. So either temj12 and I are completely unlucky with our chips or we're all going to be seeing a lot of chips by the time we get to 50,000.
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    scienceteacherscienceteacher Member Posts: 5
    Hi,

    I just purchased a 2000 Accord EX and was wondering if anyone knew where I might find the radio code (anti-theft) if no card was available and where is the Air Conditioner Filter located. Can you buy one after market or does it have to come from the dealer?

    Thanks,

    A Happy Accord Owner
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    see message 11259. the cabin air filter(s) are behind the glovebox. also when your visiting the link at the top of the page (H and A Accessories) re: the polen filters, you can also look for a radio similar to yours and the installation instructions available on the site. that should provide you enough information to remove the radio if you're mechanically inclined to find the serial number of the radio itself. you might want to consult a dealership if the VIN is sufficient. I'm not sure that it is. someone recently asked for removal instructions, i presume because the S/N was required to obtain the code.
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    rcc8179rcc8179 Member Posts: 131
    The cabin air/pollen filter is located behind the glove box, as mentioned in the previous response. I would assume you would have to buy it from a dealer parts department. It will take about 5-10 minutes to replace.

    You should be able to get your radio code from a Honda dealer (assuming that it is the original radio). You will probably have to show proof of ownership (registration). They shouldn't charge you, but they might try. Call around to different dealerships if necessary.
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    teebarr05teebarr05 Member Posts: 5
    My '02 Accord SE with almost 40,000 miles had this rattling/wobbling noise in the right front end for some time but I didn't think too much of it until it got louder and I took it to Sears for a FREE front end evaluation. They told me they couldn't find NOTHING. Of course they didn't find nothing...Sears has retards working for them. I finally took it to the dealer where I bought the car and had them check it out. To my surprise, they told me that my lower ball joints were worn and my sway bar and bushings had 'excessive play' and that my car was deemed unsafe to drive. To make matters worse, the job would cost over $600! I would expect this to happen after 100,000 miles,not 40,000! They don't make cars the way they used to back then....reliable and long lasting with minimal repairs. My husband owned a '91 Accord EX with over 230,000 miles before changing the ball joints, granted they broke off while driving. Then he owned a '94 Accord EX with over 220,000 before changing them. Unfortunately, I am very disappointed in my Accord and if things keep breaking this easily, this fast, I am getting rid of it! Does anyone else here have the same problem as me? I am sure I am not the only one that this has happened to!
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    teebarr05teebarr05 Member Posts: 5
    I own a '02 Accord with almost 40,000 miles and I recently had the front brakes replaced at SEARS. About 3 days later, I heard a clicking noise everytime I braked going forward and reverse under 5 mph (when braking at faster speeds there is no noise). I brought it back to SEARS thinking something was loose. They checked the brakes saying everything looked fine and that it could be my transmission. What!?! SEARS SUCKS! So I went to the dealer to have the tranny checked but they told me that the clicking noise is there to stay, due to the aftermarket brakes. I was pissed to hear such news that I will HAVE TO LIVE WITH THIS NOISE, unless I buy factory Honda Brakes, like what was on it when I bought the car! Those are really expensive. It drives me crazy everytime I pull out of my driveway or back out of a parking space to hear that clicking noise (that is loud)! It makes my decent car (so I thought)sound like a peice of crap. I can't wait to change my rear brakes and have DOUBLE THE CLICKING!! Please someone out there....do you have the same problem as I do with aftermarket brakes? Is it true what the dealer told me or is he trying to rip me off! I NEED HELP!!!!!!
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    craig54craig54 Member Posts: 1
    After car has been driven, it will sit for 2-4 hrs then will come back to try to start
    and it won't. Battery is good, engine turns over but won't ignite. If sit in car for about
    20 minutes after trying to start, it will start up. So far,we have replaced a module by the distributor and the distributor cap has been replaced. Hope someone can
    help
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    suzannaflsuzannafl Member Posts: 84
    I keep cars 10 years or more.
    No children.
    Medium size dog that rides occassionally.

    Which would hold up better - cloth or leather?

    Thanks,
    S
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No certain answer is possible here.

    On the one hand, dog will scratch the heck out of leather unless you cover it. Also, leather will deteriorate unless you treat it faithfully every 6 months or so with a conditioner. It is after all "skin" of a sort :P and it dries out over time.

    Cloth's durability really depends on the quality of the materials; also some cloths attract lint and make you crazy.

    So really it's hard to say. If you are a pretty good housekeeper/carkeeper, leather might serve you better but if you won't get in there and treat the leather, it's going to look no better than cloth in 4-5 years and is more expensive to remedy.
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    suzannaflsuzannafl Member Posts: 84
    As I've mentioned before, I keep cars 10 years or more.

    Do you recommend repainting after so many years?

    If so, how often?

    Does if vary by color?

    Thanks,
    S
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    suzannaflsuzannafl Member Posts: 84
    I'm not a great house/carkeeper.

    My current 1991 Honda blue interior looks pretty good.
    I did put a sheet in the back to protect it from the dog (or the people from the dog hair).
    And it turned out to help keep the headrests out of the sun.

    Not sure how diligent I would be with a leather treatment.
    But leather does look and feel nice.

    These are major decisions for me, since I do keep my cars for awhile.

    S
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Once again, if you do really good maintenance, you shouldn't have to repaint after ten years on a modern car---and besides, what with labor rates going up and up, and the cost of paint, I don't think it would be worth the money to repaint a ten year old car.
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    mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Personally, I think that cloth will outlast leather. My 88 Accord cloth seats look like new.

    I have seen many leather seats that crack in a fairly short time. Yes it's most likely due to lack of regular treatments.

    Now that you know how I don't like the leathers durability, go figure why my 04 Accord is an EX-L??

    Guess I like to learn the hard way.

    Mrbill
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    hondatech1hondatech1 Member Posts: 6
    i used to have an acura integra with same problem sounds like a main relay common problem with those accords its located driver side under dashboard
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    hondatech1hondatech1 Member Posts: 6
    ive been workin on hondas for seven years now and i heard and saw just about every problem with hondas . all 98 to 02 accords, odysseys and 01 to 04 civics has a slight brake click noise. thats how they are designed, u could go to the dealer and ask for that service news bullitin. but if u had after market pads the noise is even louder.
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    hdjcpahdjcpa Member Posts: 15
    Thank You Atlanta Benney, for your detailed response.

    I will be aware of which mechanic works on it and I will talk to the service writer first and show her the dash area (no scratches - mint condition).
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    hondatech1hondatech1 Member Posts: 6
    u should go to the honda dealer and let them know u have a problem with ur trans. on certain 98 ,99,00,01 accords honda extended the warranty to 7 years or 100,000 miles . depends on certain v.i.n. range, hondas knows that they had certain prroblems with those transes.if they give u a hard time call corparate office they will help u.
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    gwendolyngwendolyn Member Posts: 46
    Ron,

    Pls help me out here....what do you mean v4s do not exist? Also, what is an inline 4 cyclinder...what the difference between the two....this is interesting...also, tell your brother thanks!!!

    Another question, the car has "touring" tires from Bridgestone or BF Goodrich...one of them....would these tires cause vibrations and noise...what tires ride good and are quiet?

    Thanks again!!

    Gwen
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    mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Gwen,

    4 Cyl engines are inline 4s (I4) not V4 as you mentioned. 6 cyl engines can come as a inline 6 (I6) or V6. Its the layout of the cylinders that make it an I or V configuration. Inline engines have the cylinders in a single row, V engines have 2 rows of cylinders forming the V shape.

    I don't know of any V4 engines used in autos.

    Mrbill
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    gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
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    suzannaflsuzannafl Member Posts: 84
    Would that go for the red cars also?
    Looking at cars on the road, the lighter (white) non-metallic seem fine.
    But the darker ones show light spots.

    I painted my 14 year old white Accord when it was about 7years.
    Seemed like a good idea, but they did a terribe job.
    From a distance it looks good, but up close...

    What's the definition of good maintenance as far as car paint goes?
    Any special waxing?

    S
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    stevennj1stevennj1 Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the info. I GOT MY CAR BACK FROM THE DEALER AND THE CUT ALL 4 ROTORS. THAT FIX THE PROBLEM . IT LOOKS LIKE THAY JUST CUT VERY LITTLE OFF THE THE ROTORS. THE CAR BRAKES FINE NOW.
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    pj23pj23 Member Posts: 158
    Has the car been in an accident? Have you hit any curbs? Have you owned the car since new? What dort of roads do you drive on?

    40,000 seems an unusually short lifespan for the parts you mention.
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    pj23pj23 Member Posts: 158
    Why do you keep taking your car to Sears if they only have "retards" working for them?

    It's unreasonable to expect that non-Honda parts from the "retards" at Sears are going to perform exactly like the parts that were designed for your Accord by Honda.
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    mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    I've always followed the recommendation to rewax a car when you don't see water beading up on the surface anymore.

    My "88 Accords paint looks like new, except for the trunk lid, which was repainted before the car was purchased new.

    You really can't over wax a car, but you can easily under wax it.

    I would use a good auto paste wax, and not just a car polish. Car polishes may not even have wax in them.
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    sockpuppet1969sockpuppet1969 Member Posts: 308
    So either temj12 and I are completely unlucky with our chips or we're all going to be seeing a lot of chips by the time we get to 50,000.

    My 03 Accord has 54K miles and LOTS of chips. Previous car was an '89 Toyota MR2 which I put over 70K miles on and sold with 135K miles on it - paint was almost perfect. Same driving conditions.
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    lx_steallx_steal Member Posts: 45
    VW and Porsche used to use a pancake 4. Horizontally opposed.
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    teebarr05teebarr05 Member Posts: 5
    No, the car has never been in an accident...No, I have never hit any curbs...Yes, I purchased the car brand spankin' new.....However, the roads in New England are terrible but I do take care in the way I drive because I didn't want this to ever happen to me in such short time. Evidently, today I had the repairs done on the car and had to fork over $697 for it, which got me angry, but I rather be safe driving than losing my wheel like my husband did on his '91 Accord EX driving 40 mph. 40,000 Miles IS an unusually short lifespan.....I am sure that even if this happened while I still had my 3/36,000 warranty, I would still have to cough up the dough (wear-n-tear). No matter what, it's a LOSE-LOSE situation. :mad:
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