Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005
Welcome to part two of this lively discussion.
I wouldn't have thought that Honda Accord problems
would be as popular a topic as it has been.
Here's a link to the previous discussion:
Honda Accord Problems
Your host, Bruce
I wouldn't have thought that Honda Accord problems
would be as popular a topic as it has been.
Here's a link to the previous discussion:
Honda Accord Problems
Your host, Bruce
Tagged:
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Comments
- Anthony
sorry for the delay in responding to your message. My accord doesn't have "finger-print like" spots. On the left side door panels, there are small holes that seem to "eat" through the clear coat into the paint. I guess it's not like yours. I haven't brought this into the dealer's attention. As long as it doen't get worse, I could live with it. However, I agree that these are factory defects or dealer's handling problem. Maybe they sprayed some chemical during preparation. I don't know. I certainly don't buy the crap about the acid rain. Anyway, good luck.
Some more questions to you knowledgeable folks. Do you know how to decrease the noise coming from the exhaust? My accord makes this "boom" sound when it first starts accelerating from a dead stop. It's more noticeable on a hill. There're are actually two kinds of noise. First, the "boom" sound and, second, tickling noise at around 2000 RPM (with accompanying vibration of the car). The funny thing is that this sound-tickling-vibration is most noticeable from the passenger side, and less noticeable from the driver seat. Maybe the exhaust line runs under the passenger seat (mine is 2000 Accord EX-V6). Any thoughts?
Well, I guess with time any car develops engine-exhaust noise, but I want to keep my car like new as long as possible. There wasn't this kind of noise when I bought it. Is there anyway of reducing it? Like a quick tightening of a few bolts or some thing? Let me know if you have any ideas. Thanks.
Thanks
- Anthony
That doesnt sound like anything I have seen yet so all I can think of is maybe they left something a bit loose when they did the trans. If not that or you dont think thats a possibility then is it possible someone hit the back bumper and or muffler and possibly bent it,causing it to hit on accel and vibrate against the body on decel? Let us know, keep in touch with more info if possible if not...see ya
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terminalis,
Maybe there is a dent or hole or something in your headers or downpipe? I really don't know, just a sugestion. I don't have any "boom" sounds coming from my V6 Accord, but even if I did, I probably wouldn't be able to hear it over my AEM intake. Has the dealer checked this out yet?
- Anthony
auburn63, thanks a lot again for your advise. I agree with joe111 that you seem to be the guy to ask when it comes to questions on Hondas. I wish you're around here so that I could take my car to you. BTW, just curious, what's the exhaust buzz in the older generation? And what do you mean by "the trans coming out"?
joe111, I think this break-in oil issue has been already discussed in the past. If I recall properly, there is indeed the break-in oil, but it wouldn't matter to change the oil before the recommended time. I changed mine at around 4000 miles. Auburn63 could give you better advise, but I think it shouldn't hurt the engine.
However, the last time I took my 1990 Ford Explorer in for a tuneup, the dealer showed me that the holes in the block where the plugs go in were so rusted up that they could not change the plugs. The water that remained there after engine cleaning had really done me in. so I have bought some Navel Jelly, etc to try to get access to the plugs.
I usually drove every vehicle for some distance after the wash to air dry the exterior and get some heat in the engine to evaporate the water. clearly it was not enough. Fair warning to all of my Edmunds friends.
I wouldn't think about cleaning the engine every time I wash the car. IMO it just doesn't need it.
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CLEANING THE ENGINE; BE CAREFUL! LOTS OF ELECTRONICS IN THIS CAR. DON'T USE COMMERCIAL WASHES.(HIGH PRESSURES) COULD BLOW SOMETHING OFF.
On this lip, near where the front tie bar is attached by bolt to the side panel, there is about a 6 inch strip of very light rust, which is obviously going to get worse.
Is this a covered warranty item?
How can I or should I fix this myself?
If I bring it to a dealer for repairs, should I insist on a replacement panel, or am I only entitled to some light sanding and repainting of the part of the panel that is beginning to rust?
Is this considered exterior or interior for rust warranty coverage?
Other than this, I like the car.
I have a 2000 accord lx 4 cyl auto and every morning as soon as the engine temp reaches normal operating temp the car jerks once and it doesn't do it again until the next morning.I've noticed that during the day after starting up with engine cold it doesn't do it. It seems to do it when the outside temp is a little cooler in the morning.The other day I tried something new,before the temp hit normal I shift into neutral for a minute and then back to drive and didn't feel the jerk.Could this be the trans temp sensor or you think an engine sensor or maybe reseting the idle.I've read that on 98/99 reseting the idle cured the the problem.Also what type of antifreeze should I use and is a drain and fill procedure ok every year or do you recommend a system flush done at a shop.
thanks for your help.
Vinney
As for the oil, Honda recomends leaving it in until 7500 but most, if not all of the break in period is within the first 1500-2000 miles so changing your oil at 3750 or 5000 would be fine. We have done many oil changes at 3000 and have not had any motor problems.
Terminalis,The exhaust buzz on the 94-97 accords was a loud vibration/buzz that happened at 1800 rpms under a slight load.Very loud and annoying, it was caused by this short little pipe they used as a flex point and its gaskets. The cure was new gaskets and hardware to secure it.Was such a big problem they made a kit for it so you didnt have to buy individual parts.As far as the "trans coming out" I meant when it was replaced maybe they disturbed something or didnt get something back in the same position and that, that may have caused your noise.
Amazon, the hesitation/studder you are feeling under light load is probably clogged egr ports. There is a procedure for drilling out those ports and cleaning the manifold. The only other way is to replace the manifold.
RichIItf,The Honda recomendation is 6 years or 90k. You are at the 6 year mark and that year does have a problem with the balancer seal working it way out also.However if you are planing on selling and or trading it in soon then that would be a decision only you can make, if you should wait or not. Do I think you will have any problems? No, but do I gurantee? No, cause anything can happen. Good luck..
The A/C on my Accord '97 starts blowing hot air if I'm stuck in traffic for more than 5-10 minutes
And if god forbid I try to sit in a parked car, I'll be dead within 10 minutes
I went back to the dealership but they keep saying that's natural and there is nothing wrong with my A/C.
Can anyone relate? and what is wrong with my AC
I've noticed something that may be affecting my A/C temperature. My A/C on a 2000 LX is just not that cool. I am in SF and it doesn't get that warm here.BTW it does not have the Auto Temperature Gizmo that the EX has.
I'VE NOTICED
With the Temperature(blue/red ring) knob set all the way in the blue AND A/C OFF AND recirc air OFF-- the air coming from the dash center/side vents is quite warm. I've checked the temp in separate and combinations of the following (without thermometer) normal driving windows up, after car has sat over 4hrs, windows up, windows down; highway and street speeds; fan at 1-4--the air coming from the vents is always warmer than outside air.
Only after A/C is turned off after running 10+ minutes is the vent air not warmer than outside for a little while until it gets warm.
PURE OUTSIDE AIR
Is it possible to get pure outside air that is not heated?
A/C NOT POWERFUL
This warm air coming from just the vent seems to be related to the fact that the AC is not that powerful. It is starting with a handicap.
Any similar observations?
Auburn, Any explanations?
Thanks.
For max cooling when first getting in car you should have windows down,recerc on,ac on max speed.After short time(1-3min)roll up windows and adjust blower speed to your comfort.The lower the blower speed the cooler the air will be,however when it is hot in car its best to have on high until you get cooled off.
wife's 1998 Accord and now noticing that the
digital clock's time displays when the key is not
in the ignition per the owner's manual. Also, the
clock isn't back-lit allowing the time to be
displayed in low light or when the headlights are
turned on. I'd not noticed this before. Are
either of these symptoms normal?
Any suggessions on what to look for? We would like to keep the car a couple more years, it is only usxed for a short (3 mile) commute to work.
Thanks.
The bulb is probably blown. I have replaced many, all you need to do is pull the clock and take out the small bulb and replace it. If the bulb is good then you need a clock but most just need the bulb.
Amazon, y thank you,,,thank you very much
cgianos,
Most likely one of two things...
1.Sticky or frozen brake caliper pins, if the caliper can't slide then it makes the pedal effort harder and the pedal to go lower to the floor.
2.The brake master cylynder is on its way out only intermitantly failing at this time.Sometimes you can check this by putting car in gear and rolling forward then very slowly apply the brakes. If the brake pedal sinks to near the floor and gives you very little braking then it is bad.Give it a try and if you are not for sure it may be a best guess kind of thing.I have seen a lot of the 90-93 Accords need masters as of late.
in Montreal, Canada. The first problem I had was that the SRS red light would not go off. This
happened on a saturday, and I was afraid to drive
the car for fear that the AIR bags (SIDE or FRONT)
would deploy at high speeds. So I had to wait for
Monday when the dealer investigated, and found a faulty SRS control module. They pronptly replaced the module. I have not had a problem with the
SRS warning light since.
By the way, I have NOT had any transmission problems with my EX-V6. I now have 1500 kilometers (or 900 miles) on it. The car was
manufactured in March/2000. This date is clearly
visible upon opening the front driver's door.
So far I love this automobile (signet grey).
Here are the reasons why:
. Tremendous acceleration & passing power
. Extremely quiet engine; it's so smooth that
I have to look at the tachometer to see if the
engine is engaged.
. Beautiful, functional & ergonomic interior.
I had the simulated woodgrain installed, and
it adds a true look of class.
The leather seating is very comfortable.
The back seats are very spacious.
I also like the automatic climate control,
although I'm still not used to it.
. The CD player is very clear & crisp; the sound
system is excellent.
. The alloy wheels are really great looking, and
sporty.
Before this car, I had a Honda accord 1987...and
I was also very pleased with it. By the way, it's
still running, with 125,000 miles on it!
PICENO
DC
Thanks for your response on my other post.
Vinney
Right, I know that the air passes over the engine, just like almost all other autos. this air is warmer than any car that I've ever driven or ridden in. Also other cars do not require BLASTING the AC on HIGH to cool things down. The fan is annoying. I don't even like AC but it is my only choice to cool the car down.
I do all those steps you described in post #39
thanks for the input!!!
Accord owners--any similar hot air?