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Chevrolet Cobalt Transmission Issues
My 06 Cobalt was taken to the shop 3 times for the trans grinding when shifting from 1-2 gears and grinding on down shift from 3-2 first time i was told theres no problem, 2nd time I was told I need a new clutch and it wasnt covered under warranty I took the car another Dealer they said it need a new trans and clutch the replaced them under warranty but they refused to cover the tow bill for the second visit...I will never buy another GM product ever...
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1.first thing that went wrong was the ignition module.. turns out that bosch plugs are destructive to a cobalt, they burn coil packs and modules out.. with ac delco i never have that problem... cost of replacement parts before knew what was wrong $900
2. front calipers not working..still have not figured this one out, although i will probably have to replace them.. estimated cost of repair $300 or so..
3.because of problem #2 the car uses exclusivly back brakes which means that they (brake pads) wear faster, much much faster, so they wore down to the metal (without making a sound) and into the hub which now means that the hub is stuck on the car and the whole assembly had to be replaced repair cost $300
4.aluminum wheel studs on the car.. constant crossthreading constant replacement..finally changed them out for aftermarket metal studs.. replacemnt costs (all the aluminum studs i replaced plus the new (working) metal studs) $120
5.transmission went out at 147,000..reverse would not work at all..(out of warrenty btw) replacent transmission from the junk yard and paying my help) $930
6. new transmission works fine most of the time but when it gets hot it shifts badly from 1-2.. thought it was leaking fluid so i have added fluid alot maybe as much as 25 quarts i hope the overfill works
7. battery cable with a bare spot touching the frame.. ( 1 week ago) after shorting out the alternator, destroying the computer and reprogramming the new one repair costs $1100
8. sputter when in park.. carbon buildup in the throttle body $5 for spray cleaner and constant trips to the dealership, it was not a computer problem so they did not have a clue btw (very pissed that they can't repair a car without a diagnostic computer like a real mechanic)
9. gasket around heater core went bad thus flooding my passenger side with condensation 1/2 inch deep in the floor board --this one was free since at the time it was under warrente
10. shocks all the way around need replaced.. i carry alot of weight in the car (newspapers--almost 1000 a day) estimated cost for repair $500
11.door locks started locking and unlocking by themselves and door unlocker button no longer works (remote keyless entry device) i removed the fuse from the box and now unlock and lock by hand $35 for the lock switches ( which btw i have not had a chance to replace yet) who knows whats wrong here
12. and best of all my mechanic charges 100 per hour for repairs.. and im so through with the dealership.. never again
final thoughts... always disconnect the negative from the battery first.. never test the alternator by removing the positive cable while it is running.. gm has rigged the alternator to self destruct if you try this..lastly my new car (i can't trade in my old car without a massive hit since it has so many miles) will be a honda or a toyota or nissan.. if the american cars were better made i would consider but since they are not and since i actually want a dependable car im going with a rice burner . no wonder their stocks are going in the toilet
total repair costs thus far after 3 yrs $4,240.00 and clumbing (door locks and transmission still messed up :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
when i changed out the transmission the shifter got stuck (which is a common problem for a cobalt so i had to force it out of park which in turn broke something in the shifter case who knows how much that one will cost and at the same time the key got stuck in the ignition and will not come out, yet another problem with the cobalt... im sure the two are related problems... safety switch i think.. sure this fix will be several hundred dollars
and no i got the cheese 3 yrs ago, it comes standard with the cobalt.. thanks anyway
To check the level.
Locate the hex head plug near the pan, about 1.5" from the bottom of the transmission. This is the ATF level checking plug and is located near the passenger tire.
With the engine idling while the car is on a level surface, the ATF should be level with the plug hole. Also, the engine/transmission should be at normal operating temps to check proper ATF level.
WARNING!!!
With the engine off, removing the level check plug will drain about 3-4qts of ATF. Of course this feature could come in handy for those wishing to do some partial drain and fills.
I've done several of these and it's not as hard as some think or suggest.
In the photo section of this group is a picture of our auto tranny. Pretty simple once you know where everything is at and have the basis instructions, which I posted above..
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Lubricators-r-us/
also of course the book says take it to a dealer..gm and the dealers have teamed up on car repairs so the dealer can make more money by repeat visits..gm has designed the cobalt to be harder to work on on purpose
lastly, no need to go hunting down the overflow screw.. it releases the overflow automatically
Sounds like most cars on the market nowadays.
Thanks
http://img520.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cobalttransvu3.jpg
find the fuse box (driver side under the hood) standing in front of the car facing the engine (with the molded plastic shield taken off, (it is the one with the oil cap holding it on).go straight down beside the fuse box toward the transmission and you should be able to feel the cap about 12 to 16 inches down.. the cap maybe about one to 1 and a half inches wide.. it just screws on and off
the plug is hard to see, you will need to feel around for it, its not hard to find.. make sure the engine is cool also
Please help if you have any advice!
Thanks! :lemon:
your just gonna have to take a partial loss now, that is unless you want to take a total loss later
thats would combine into one loan of $16,000 which would be around $360 payment.. well anyway hopefully you can do something before you start walking...
and reply to post#24.. if you owe less than the car is worth thats good.. if you own more than the car is worth, thats bad..depreciation is always bad unless you are buying rather than selling/trading in..
The Ecotec's when introduced took all the Guiness book of World Records away from the Honda Civic. They rule the drag strip as well in stock and pro-stock. There are as many performance parts available for them for anyone who builds and races cars as any other manufacture. A very respected engine.
i owned a 2005 chevy cobalt. When i bought it, it had 19 original miles on it.. i changed the oil every 3,000 miles, and spark plugs every 30,000 miles..never changed the transmission fluid till it started pouring out on a daily basis.but i guess after about 130,000 i changed the fluid every day.. ie.. it leaked out, so i poured more in.. also i did not break the speed limit very much because i have to pay the tickets/tires/gas and everything plus im not a teenager so i did not abuse my car.
poncho167 is one of those die hard chevy fans. who will not listen to anyone have a bad opinion of the cars he likes.. the proof is all the crap about the car being better than another car or this or that award and so on..all i know is about is the cobalt i bought and cdn shawty knows about his cobalt that he bought.. all the rewards/hype is just that 'hype' surrounding a car so who cares about that stuff. I am an individual and i base a cars worth on how it preforms with me personaly not how car and driver or whoever rates a car, thats silly. All car company put out there 'we build a good car and buy one because everyone wants one and look at what all the top experts say'.the reality is that those experts do not drive the cars when they have 100,000+ miles on them while still driving 200 miles a day seven days a week to work and back.they drive them when they are new, which i have to say when mine was new i was impressed with it as a 4 cylinder. After i got some miles on it , I was not so impressed. i and shawty want our cars to last a long time, thats why we bought them...i got the gm discount that helped me decide... but anyway, i would have much preferred my cobalt to last longer than 3 years and 157,000 miles.. but it didn't and i can not justify anyone buying one bases on my real world experience.. every time i and shawty have had a breakdown we have make our best efforts to have our cars fixed..in my case it was a total loss.. i am in my 30's, have done all the required maintainance, always kept good tires and breaks, kept the fluids to the proper levels and was looking forward to paying the car off and not having a car payment at all. For a few years assuming the cobalt held up. Which was what i wanted. But sadly it died and i had to go buy something else, and take a 5400 dollar loss on my crappy cobalt which was what i owed at the time of its death.. i wish i would not have had to trade..
...and to think, i was made famous by this car back in december 3, 2010.. headline news.. MANSFIELD SUPER MOM DELIVERS BABY IN HER CAR!! When i was on Fox news I wanted to blast GM and Vandergriff so bad but I said no kea.. dont cause trouble but NOW!! I'm determined. I will win if I don't quit and I'M NOT A QUITTER
Could you please email me your VIN? I would like to look further into your situation.
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
I wanted to say that I have a 2008 coupe and I also am having a Jumping RPM's also. This happens when I am going around 30 to 40MPH and it is getting more annoying to me everyday. I have been told to check the gas I am buying---put in some gas treatment--and use some injector cleaner. I was also told to change the fuel filter that some junk may be floating. They have also told me that a dealer will bleed my bank account and you will still have the annoying jerking problem. I am not getting any code signals that will help me pinpoint a problem. I have to watch my P&Q's money wise so when I read your post it was exactly whats happening to my 08 colbalt. I wanted to know if you got the solenoid valve replaced and if that worked? If so did you replace it or did a shop do it---and if you found out where its at and of course the most important question--How much too replace it. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thank You----Terry :confuse:
May 31, 2011 (6:07 pm)
Replying to: fixmycobalt (May 27, 2011 7:04 pm)
Hello Fixmycolbalt,
I wanted to say that I have a 2008 coupe and I also am having a Jumping RPM's also. This happens when I am going around 30 to 40MPH and it is getting more annoying to me everyday. I have been told to check the gas I am buying---put in some gas treatment--and use some injector cleaner. I was also told to change the fuel filter that some junk may be floating. They have also told me that a dealer will bleed my bank account and you will still have the annoying jerking problem. I am not getting any code signals that will help me pinpoint a problem. I have to watch my P&Q's money wise so when I read your post it was exactly whats happening to my 08 colbalt. I wanted to know if you got the solenoid valve replaced and if that worked? If so did you replace it or did a shop do it---and if you found out where its at and of course the most important question--How much too replace it. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thank You----Terry
I apologize for your concerns. If you have any questions comments or concerns please feel free to email me. I apologize I do not have technical information. My best advice is to speak with a dealer.
Christina
GM Customer Service
I'm going to take my Cobalt back to the dealership in a week or so and have it out with the service manager. This will be the 4th time addressing the flickering RPM's between 3rd and 4th gears. I will take a 1/2 day off from work so I can ride with mechanic to duplicate the problem. My daughter is getting her learners permit in a few weeks and I feel the Cobalt is too dangerous for her to drive with the flickering RPM's (it creates bad handling problems with your body being jerked in the car).
Main Motors Chevrolet Cadillac is my dealership in Anoka, Minnesota.
I apologize for your frustrations. Please keep updated on your progress. I look forward to your response.
Christina
GM Customer Service
The car presents a similar problem as to those described here. It's most noticeable when driving between 40 and 50MPH and a constant rate of speed with no incline or decline in road grade.
The car will 'flutter' about 700rpm from 1500 to close to 2300. I took it into the dealership on Thursday and they were able to verify the issue I was having which was a partial relief. The dealership has since replaced the Transmission valve body. I don't know for certain if the issue is resolved as they still have the car for other routine maintenance today.
Mileage on the car sits at 33,000