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Jeep Grand Cherokee Electrical Problems



  • It eats batteries. Sometimes transmission will not shift despite fluids topped off recently. Have to rev engine and dash and head lights flicker, if I stop car it stops for good, so have to keep going, FAST, to where I'm going. That happened about 3 times. Each time wound up w new battery. This time just walked out one day--battery etc had been fine day before, no sign of trouble--and it wouldn't crank. AAA guy said he'd ditch the car. But I am a woman hunter with a long highway commute to work and nothing else can hack both the seriously nasty backroads I travel AND the highway. I want to keep my car. Should I just keep calling AAA and buying batteries or ...? (I don't know what should come after the "or")
  • Battery connections are all clean, all fluids are topped off, AAA nor garages can ever find anything wrong but battery, exc second of four times had to replace alternator (summer before last). All in all, 3 new batteries (haven't bought one yet this time as car charged and SEEMS fine, but I know more is coming) in 3 years, with average mileage.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    there is a heat sensor under your battery sounds as if that is bad controls how much your alternator charges you battery i would change that first
  • 97c jg 4x4 v8 wont start. was running fine drove home from work 5 mins later it wouldnt start. last time it did that i put it in the shop asd relay went bad and a ring on enjector blew out. its got a new fuel pump and filters,plugs and wires,o2 sensor,map sensor, battery,distributor cap water pump,could the wire have come off the fuel pump. that happened to me the first time i dropped the gas tank to change the filter thats when i went ahead and changed the entire fuel pump and filters so i wouldt have to drop the tank. help please! merry christmas.
  • I have read a lot of the posts about electrical problems. One of my problems is trying to trace electrical circuits when you don't know where they are going. The Dist. Center pictured in the Owner's Manual is not the same as what is under the hood. The cover is marked as part #56018905. I can email a jpg. Three of these Maxi fuses need to be pulled out to stop the heavy battery drain in the keyoff position.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    un hook you alternator and see if drain goes away just the big wire which goes to the battery on the alternator
  • Yesterday i had to reverse into a very small parking space and had to use the mirror fold switch to stop the mirrors getting damaged.......When i returned to the car about an hour later i could not unfold the mirrors or use any of the buttons on the drivers door control panel........its like there is no power getting to the panel so i cant open ANY of the windows either from the panel or from the other door controls AND the heater is now only blowing cold air even after 30 minutes of driving.......Any ideas PLEASE
  • Did you check to see if any of your fuses burned out?
  • All fuses seem OK.
  • I have a 1996 Grand Cherokee laredo limited, 4.0 straight 6 Im have multiple problems with it, First I noticed that my instrument lights go dim and bright of and on but after it run it dont do it as much I replaced the battery.. and now, Im having problems my pass. side doors will not work such as the windows will not go down the mirror will not move, the lock will not work I dont know if there is a connector somewhere that goes from the dash to the door? that may have possibly came loose? any ideas? all fuses r good Id greatly appreciate the help..

  • I have a 2004 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 automatic 4 wheel drive. with manually shifted transfer case. the 4 part time coms on intermittently and the front axles bind on hard turns in 2 wheel drive. i have replaced the transfer case assy. checked mounts shift cable????

    Help!!!!!!!!!!! anyone have any ideas please email me at thanks
  • steverstever Posts: 52,571
    Please don't ask for "personal" help via email. We all benefit when a problem is discussed on the open forum. Thanks.
  • I have a 1994 GC 4x4 4.0L I6. one day i started it and noticed my security light on the dash and my head/tail lights were flashing. The engine killed. then everytime i tried to start it back up it ran for 3 seconds and dies. pulled out the security alaram box to stop bliking so i wouldnt kill the battery. Any suggestions? I was thinking the CPS or my ECU? i might just replace both and see where i end up.
  • Hi all,

    First time poster. My daughters 1997 grand cherokee's battery has been draining and will only hold a charge for about 36-48 hours. We replaced the battery 6 months ago and just had it checked out and it is good.

    It's been awhile since I've got into this sort of stuff but I whipped out my trusty multimeter and did some checking. I disconnected the postive cable, connected my multimeter to the post and cable and sure enough it was reading 188 milliamps of pull. I believe about 30 milliamps is normal for the clock, etc. I then proceeded to pull each fuse one at a time and when I pulled the 50A fuse, it dropped down to near 0.

    According to my fuse box legend, this fuse (position 11 in the fuse box panel) is in line for the memory functions, power window, power door locks,power mirrors, remote keyless entry and the trailer tow package which we do not have.

    My daughter told me that a few months ago the power door lock would not open the passenger side door which had to be opened by the internal latch of with the key from the outside. With this said, I definately see a connection between the battery drain (related to the power locks) and the door not opening when the power door lock switch is hit.

    Any ideas on where to start would be much appreciated.

  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    go in and unhook the power lock mec on the door and see if lowers the draw on the battery if so power door lock mec on that door
  • Thanks. Is the power lock mec(?) on the door located inside the door panel? Since the passenger side door is not unlocking, would that be the door I should focus on?
  • Sorry first timer
    Any ideas???
  • steverstever Posts: 52,571
    There are some binding posts over in the maintenance and repair board - try a search there for "bind". Here's one example:

    funguns, "Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair" #1460, 25 Jun 2005 5:27 pm
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    inside door panal

    look around the upper part of the panel should see 2 3 screews or covers bout size of dime covering heads remove screws and pry door pannel off start at the bottom
  • I am still trying to track down the 3+ amp draw in my daughter's 1996 JGC. So far nobody has come up with the Power Distribution Center diagram that matches the one in her Jeep. The cover is part # 56018905. It does not match the owner's manual, and there is not one in the Haynes that we have for it. If anyone has an idea on where to get this block diagram,. I would appreciate it.
  • Hi,

    Perhaps you are having the same confusion I had. Just a guess. When I went to the owners manual for our 1997 JGC, it shows a fuse box located by the inside passenger "kick box" just below and to the right of the glove box. Nothing there!!!! When you go a couple of pages further in the manual, it shows the "power distribution center" which is the fuse box located right behind the battery toward the firewall. Not sure if that's what you mean. 3+amps is a huge draw!
  • Thanks for the tips. I discovered that the power door locks are not working for both the front passenger and drivers side back seat. I can hear the motor trying to operate the locks but does not open and close the locks. Thanks to your procedure advise I easily removed the dooe panels and disconnected both of the power lock cables. As luck would have it, when I went to check the draw again with my multimeter, it stopped working! Tried new batteries still nothing. Will have to buy a new one.
    Thanks again
  • Hey good people,

    Can anyone tell me where the neutral position sensor harness is? I need to check out an odd reverse light/blower motor malfunction on my son's 04 Grand Cherokee Laredo.

    I appreciate any help.
  • Hi back to you!
    I'm not really confused about the locations. The fuse panel is inside on the passenger side kick panel. The Power Distribution Center is under the hood. I would like to see the block diagram for the PDC. The one in the Manual must be for a different year. The part number on the cover is 56018905. Thanks for the reply, though.
  • jjmm01jjmm01 Posts: 1
    Yesterday the interior lights wouldn't go off unless they were physically turned off on the column but the "readout for an open door" didn't work for the drivers door so I assumed something was amiss with the door itself. However it did work for all other doors. Eventually the interior lights went off and I checked the fuse when I got home (it wasn't blown). We left later and none of the lights on the driver door worked (the lock and window controls) and neither did any of the controls. Now none of the windows will work. We have looked and neither of the fuse boxes have any fuses labeled for the door locks or power windows. I'm assuming it's a relay around the door or where the door wiring links in but we haven't figured out exactly how it links in. Any ideas on what may be causing this or a way to fix it without a huge garage bill? - which is where I think probably will be heading.
  • I just had the same sort of problem on my 03 Grand Cherokee....No power getting to the drivers door panel.....couldnt open ANY window from ANY door switch....could not lock the drivers door with the remote and the wierdest problem was that the heater would only blow cold air.

    I found the problem in the wiring between the drivers door and the fuse panel.
    2 of the thick wires that run from the interior fuse panel to the door panel had broken. I had to split the rubber gaitor that sits in the door jam and gently pull at all of the wires one at a time and eventually 2 wires came through.
    It was quite a fiddly job to reconnect but eventually used 2 small con blocks and about 6 inches of extra wire to do all working OK.

    I recently asked another grand cherokee owner if he had any problems of this nature and to my surprise he had THE VERY SAME problem about 6 months ago.

    Suggest you look there first as this sounds very similar.

    I live in England and the fuse for the power windows is 50amp J12 in the PDC under the bonnet but might not be the same on your spec.......This fuse was OK when i had my problem.

    Hope this helps
  • I have a 94 Jeep GCL. All kinds of electical problems. I got a wiring diagram off a site called Scribd. Maybe you can find one on there.
  • Lorraine:

    Sounds like the crankcase sensor is faulty. It's a simple fix, and very common among JGC owners. Vehicle will run fine for awhile, and suddenly stall with no warning. Sometimes, the vehicle will start back up; other times, the vehicle will have great difficulty to re-start.

    I actually purchased a new MOPAR crank sensor on Ebay for $19.00; had a mechanic install it for $60. Been fine for over a year.
  • BartnBetsy:
    Where is the electrical control panel/unit located? How did you come upon that resolution?
  • Bought the JGC new. Runs like a top; 110K miles, and in about as good a condition as a 9.5 year old vehicle can be. I've experienced a few of the electrical issues that many experience, but have managed to resolve all.

    Vehicle has usually been garage kept. However, in October 2009, I left on vacation, and left the vehicle outside for two weeks. Upon my return, I found the gauges not working, all dashboard lights lit up, windows not working. Occasionally, overhead console and power locks don't work. Seems to run fine, and in driving vehicle for last three months, gauges will intermittently come on and off. FYI: When airbag light turns off, speedometer and tach come back on; no other gauges come to life.

    Vehicle has been left with an electrical mechanic; in 7 days, he's found little. Diagnostics trace the issue to the instrument cluster bus, but the ICB seems to be fine; no corrosion, no bent pins, all wires appear to be fine.

    I know that many of you have experienced the issue of non-functioning gauges. Has anyone found a resolution for the problem? Or...any suggestion for things to check? Any help would be appreciated.
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