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Jeep Grand Cherokee Electrical Problems



  • gaj2888gaj2888 Posts: 5
    Did you ever get this issue resolved. I have been having the same problem? The first thing I noticed was the interior lights would stay on when I closed the door. Somehow, I got that to stop but, now my power locks and windows will not work at all. I would really appreciate your help!
  • c_farooqc_farooq Posts: 20
    Hi. I am looking for some advice.

    I have a 2000 yr Gran cherokee, and for the last 3 months i have been hearing a humming noise. This has gradually got louder. As you turn left it stops, but when you go right it gets worse. I preseumed it was a diff. Someone said it might be the diff?
    what is easier? can the rear axle just be replaced or would i have to get a new diff?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    i would check the wheel bearings first
  • thomaz31thomaz31 Posts: 1
    For a while now the horn is not sounding completely. It started back when it was colder. It wouldn't sound at all when it was freezing. Then, it would as the temperature warmed up. Lately it doesn't work properly at all. Sounds as if it has a cold. No where near enough volume. I can hear clicking under the glove compartment when I blow the horn. (Same clicking back when it was colder weather). But, I can't find any access to relays. The fuses are fine...Would very much like to fix this. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Thomas
  • Just turned 200K miles. When I turn the ignition key nada. No clicking from the starter solonoid. My gauges are all lighting up, my electrics seem ok, even though the battery is new I tried to jump it just in case it wasn't getting enough amperage, same. The only recent history is the front end was completely rebuilt last month. Any suggestions are appreciated.
  • trek87trek87 Posts: 49
    there are a number of possibilities. can you provide more information? is the noise tied to vehicle speed, O/D on/off, accelerating/coasting, etc...
  • c_farooqc_farooq Posts: 20
    The noise sually comes on when travelling over 40mph, when you turn left it stops and right it gets worse. I have tried coasting and still happens. When OD is on or off it still happens. There is a slight vibration on the steering wheel when driving.

  • trek87trek87 Posts: 49
    it's weird that you say it is apparent above 40 mph (which is around where the overdrive kicks in), but that you hear the same noise even with it disabled? are you sure you've disabled the overdrive? do you have full-time 4WD?

    if you do and the noise is coming from the front-end, this smells like a problem i had for awhile with my '98 GC (mine was also related to my TC) and it turned out my overdrive unit was burned out. it sits between your trans. and the TC, so you may also have some TC symptoms (which might explain why turning left or right makes it louder/quieter).
  • ryelenikryelenik Posts: 8
    I'm having kind of the same problem. When I have the radio working on acc the power goes out to it when I open the door. Also the all in one center that alerts when door ajar or whatever just flashed on and off when driving. The clicking is a relay inside the bottom of the glovebox, but I tested it according to Hayes manual and it's good. Also the radio just flashes along with the cargo interior light when the key is on and the radio is hooked up. Oh yea forgot that the alarm for leaving the keys and lights on dont work either. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • tiggerrichtiggerrich Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 601 ecu error problem but the car runs great and never has demonstrated a problem. I cannot get new tags because of this. I can reset the error, which works for one re start only and after that error shows back up. I put a "new" ECU unit in and it reacts the same way and does not stay reset. There seems to be no change form one ecu to the other and with both the jeep run great. It seems like a virus that keeps re infecting the ecu....any help?
  • nfazio413nfazio413 Posts: 1
    Just wanted to know if anyone has had issues with a new vehicle 1 day after driving it off the lot and what the outcome was?

    I purchased a new 2009 Grand Cherokee drove it off the lot with 3 miles on the odometer I am currently out of the state from where I purchased the vehicle and I am experiancing electrical issues. Every time you hit the door locks its fuse blows.

    Its been at a certified Jeep service center for 2 days and I only had the car to drive for 2 days...

    What kind of compensation should I expect or should I request?

    The service center still has not been able to diagnose the problem. I just moved to NJ and the vehicle was purchased in VA. So I'm not sure who to contact for complaints and compensation.

    Please Help!
  • jjgaitanjjgaitan Posts: 3
    We have recently purchased a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee, V6 4.0 with only 69,000 miles for $3,000. Great deal huh! People selling made a claim that vehicle ran fine...only problem was the lady drove the vehicle too long after the water pump going out and cracked the head. Also window motors needed changing in front 2 doors. Well, head was not cracked! Yay! :blush: Fixed the engine easily, changed the window motors and now we get down to the truth - electrical issues :mad: . Occassionaly, the dome lights and stereo will not turn off. Sometimes the dome lights stay on after starting the vehicle and stay on the entire ride and then stay on after pulling out the key right along with the stereo system (infinity gold that came stock). This ends up draining the battery of course. Should we look for shorts in the engine, change the PCM, or get rid of the vehicle as fast as possible!
  • jjgaitanjjgaitan Posts: 3
    When our 2005 Ford Excursion did that, it was as simple as the alternator.
  • The dash gages on our JGC all turn on, including the Sentry Key security light and the engines dies.Originally it was more random but now its daily. I can unhook the battery to reset everything and it will drive fine for a day. After dying the car restarts, however at any given time it dies. We have had a couple sensors replaced and the electrical brain (ECU?) replaced and a new battery. Car ran good for a month afterwords then back to the same. No error code displays......any ideas?
  • danwizdanwiz Posts: 1
    have a 1994 Grand Cherokee limited with a transmission that stopped engaging. On day it just stopped at a red light and wouldn't move. I changed the filter and fluid and it began to do the following: When starting out, it will not immediately move, as if it is not in gear. After applying the throttle up to around 3000 rpm, it will lurch into gear and leap forward. It has the same issue going from 1st to second gear, and then seems normal second into third. When it hits fourth gear it will randomly downshift back to third, then up to fourth. When coming off a highway, the transmission does not appear to downshift at all, vibrating violently and then stalling when you come to a stop. It sometimes does this vibrating act when you first start it as well. I brought it to my mechanic, who recommended a transmission shop. He put on an aftermarket oil cooler, and recommended a junkyard transmission. The battery was not holding a charge, so I had a new one plus an alternator put in as well. Nothing changed with the different transmission, so we tried a second used transmission and that did not change the symptoms either. In the end he rebuilt the lower end of the original transmission, which did not change anything either. He finally gave it back to me (no charge except for the battery and alternator) and told me it was an electrical problem, not a transmission problem. My mechanic replaced the speed sensor and governor sensor but that did not change anything either. (He did not charge me.) Does anyone have any ideas? It's got 182K and the 4.0. The transmission is the all-the-time 4-wheel drive. What I'm getting from most people is "hey, it's a Dodge with high miles, why fix it." Any help would be appreciated.
  • So, my boyfriend and I went 4 wheeling in tall grass in his 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee Lardeo 4.0, I know, NOT a good idea. The next morning we left to drive about four hours and forgot to check the undercarriage, REALLY not a good idea. We were about 2 hrs in and the transmission started slipping on the highway at about 70 mph. We stopped for gas, it started up fine, and on we went. Transmission was acting up over 70, but seemed fine at 65. He told me to pull off so we could check the fluid, I exited, turned left, and the Jeep died at about 45 mph. Just shut down, no gauges working at all. Cranked but would not turn over, but you can hear the fuel pump come on. We looked under and found grass around the drive shaft that had ripped out the downstream O2 sensor. Of course it was late, no parts stores were open, and we left the repair manual at home... He tried to stick the wires back in the sensor but that didn't work. We got towed home, replaced the sensor, and nothing changed. Checked for fire at spark plug, nothing. We tried to get the check engine light to flash the codes manually, and that didn't work either. No check engine light at all. We went to checking sensors with the volt meter, trying to make the check engine light come on. Nada. Very low (about half of normal) readings on major sensors. We had it towed to a shop, they said it was reading crazy and must be the PCM. We have tried two different ones programmed for the vehicle and they didn't change a thing... Still cranks, no start, no gauges, any ideas? Thanks so much!
  • kills and starts back up. some times right away some times in a min. or two. one time gauges went crazy. put out code for tps

    from my reading on this site, i see it is a common problem and we know why they are bankrupt. i have a list of possible suspects,

    -Crank Sensor
    -cpu,ecu, computer,
    -maybe alarm, some unplug factory alarm

    it kills every 100-300 miles and i have 100k mi

    my understanding is the computer is sensitive, and puts out a false TPS and Crank code. I changed battery and TPS, still died. The comp put out a Crank Shaft Code. I am going to change that then try a new computer from ebay,

    It did not show a code at autozone but i turned the key three times without starting and it read p0306. it will flash code. if no code it will flash done.

    Other than that great truck WILL SELL
  • virgil373virgil373 Posts: 3
    About ten days ago I noticed my 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 6cyl, 4x4 was leaking radiator fluid. Took it to the shop, they replaced the water pump and also said the cooling fan relay was broken and replaced it. A couple of days later I changed the spark plugs and boots. I then noticed that the interior lights weren't working and tracked down a couple of other electrical issues--button to release liftgate window and the rear wiper weren't working. Took it back to the shop, they traced it to a blowing fuse (#8) and said there was a short somewhere in the liftgate, perhaps the wiper motor or liftgate window button. They are tracking down the short now. I can replace whatever component they identify as busted.

    Are these things related? Could the busted cooling fan relay have caused a short in one of the liftgate devices? Could I have jostled/pinched a wire in the engine bay (while changing the spark plugs) that caused the short? Do I have a ghost? Thanks for any advice.
  • kampy1kampy1 Posts: 1
  • When I try enter my vehicle the wireless button does'nt work. I open manually and enter, my dome light does not work. When I try to start it the gages go round and round. It acts like it is totally dead. Then after three or four tries it starts fine. I also noticed if this happens if I slam my drivers door a few times the dome light goes on the it starts right up. I have had it to a mechanic he replaced the ignition switch and the pcm computer. Does anyone have a fix for this?
  • parist21parist21 Posts: 1
    Pleassssssseeeee HELP! Hopefully you found out what was going on with your jeep...
    I have a 97 jeep grand cherokee larado V8 that is KILLING ME with the exact same problem. I parked it for awhile when i came back to start it the battery was i too shrugged it off. i replaced the battery with a optima red cap and have since gone through two of them in less than two weeks i don't have the money to send it to a shop to get fixed
  • chicjeepchicjeep Posts: 1
    Ok here's the deal.
    I've only owned the vehicle for less than a year. Bought it off a friend when I needed a vehicle. The only issue it had at that time was that the gas gauge would float up and down. Well in the past two weeks some weird stuff has been going on...
    The dash light blink on and off
    The Blower Motor on the heat/AC won't work
    The interior lights are stuck on even when I remove the keys from the ignition. Anyone know what could be the problem here?
    Any advice would help. :cry:
  • barryzbarryz Posts: 43
    i was wondering if you solved this, my 99 grand cherokee laredo 6cyl 4wd just started this exact same issue today, fuel gage at 0 fuel warning light on and security key light on which is a light i never remember seeing before, i tried my other key with no help, i have 153000 miles, i have owned since 130000, was running like a new car until now, yesterday i had front end aligned and tires rotatated which should not have caused a problem, mechanic test drove after alignment and gave me the car with the engine running, i drove home, shut jeep off, this morning cranks but no start, fuel zero and security key lite on. i called the service manager where i had work done, he asked me if i had moved the tilt sterring, i told him i thought his mechanic had, he said he vaugely remembers that there is a wiring harnes on sterring colum that sometimes pinches when wheel tilt position changed, maybe a wire to ignition switch was pulled loose but i haven't solved, i have changed all fuses related to starting even though they look ok, no help. IF YOU HAVE ANSWER PLEASE HELP!
  • barryzbarryz Posts: 43
    i just paid to ask an expert on, a jeep service manager and ASE in automotive electrical, he said the fuel warning light and security key light and no code indicate cps crankshaft position sensor, that it shorts the PCM so it won't display a code, replacing cps should fix problem, i'm having mine towed to a repair shop next week when my AAA membrship for towing takes effect. my choices were tow 30 milles to dealer for parts and labor close to $300, or the local napa repair center for about $130. I have seen many postings here where people replaced this and it did not fix, its also a very hard part to get at, so i'll let the shop fix. The mechanic there agreed with my expert that the fuel warning light and no code being stored make the cps the first place to look, especially on a 1999. He is gonna verify before changing part, keeping my fingers crossed, will post back with results. These internet forums are helpful, but electrical issues with cherokee seems to be a stumper on this forum. Last year my radiator fan got stuck on and drained batterey, then would not come back on after jump, code pointed to fan relay, forums said same, it was fan relay, this case is not as clear cut. I don't understnd why Jeep puts fan relay in suc a hard to reach area, nor do i understand the point of this cps, since what it does is stop spark and fuel if senses crankshaft timing off, and since there is no common adjustment to change timing, what is the point of cps? though i think perhaps it sends a pulse train to pcm to tell it when to send fuel to each injecter and when to fire each plug, takes place of rotor cap, the old ways were easier to fix for sure.
  • 4x4jeep4x4jeep Posts: 13
    on both sides of the vehicles kick panels there are two large screw in connectors that tie the dashboard to the body harness, i suggest you pull the kick panels out and with the vehicle on wiggle the wire bundles see if you can cause the problems to duplicate. sometimes those connectors don't seat properly or wires get strained. good luck :confuse:
  • 4x4jeep4x4jeep Posts: 13
    those switches in the steering column are easy to fix just pull them out and there are 2 wires at each, you can pull the switches apart with out breaking them and there is 3 stamped metal surfaces checked for cracks in the metal pads. good luck :sick:
  • 4x4jeep4x4jeep Posts: 13
    i am sorry to hear that i used to work at the factory those guys are supposed to replace the body harness not repair it for any kind of wiring problem. i do know that the drivers door is checked first by the body computer so it is very important. another problem area is the kick panels on both sides good luck :shades:
  • 4x4jeep4x4jeep Posts: 13
    lemon law states that they have 3 attempts to fix the same problem, so in the documentation make sure the problem is stated as it was the first time. if i remember correctly there are 2 wires running to the lock for the lift gate 1 of the wires is ground and most dfinately the other is the lock command, you should be able to check for a short to ground and then look for the voltage on the other good luck :confuse:
  • 4x4jeep4x4jeep Posts: 13
    your problem screams shorting to ground.
  • ceekdeeceekdee Posts: 2
    last night in the middle of the night, the headlights started to flash on and off as though the alarm was going off. the horn was not sounding though. it was not a consistent flashing. i started the car, after turning it off, it no longer flashed. what might be happening? also two days ago when i turned off the car, the interior air conditioning blower stayed on. it turned itself off after about 10 min. and has not done it since. it was very, very hot that day (110) and i had been running a lot of errands... again, any clues? :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
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