Your whiff was correct. Some people just have no sense of humor.
roc50mg: Besides, I didn't say Japanese cars are "better",...I just said they don't break as often. Hard to argue with that, statistics, and consumer review web sites bare it out. I don't want to stay w/Japanese cars because I want to drive something more than a semi-sporty appliance. The armrest thing is obviously a marketing gimmick (a frustrating one, nevertheless), designed to tempt people to spring for the PP. Alot of corporations do this (I am an amateur photographer, and Nikon is notorious for this. I still shoot Nikon, though). Why can't you just accept the relative strengths and weaknesses of various cars w/out declaring a holy war? Take a valium and calm down.
I guess I still don't see the center console/armrest thing as a huge "weakness", considering that you can buy one aftermarket for under $200 and install it yourself very easily (I think I've heard under an hour with minimal tools required). If someone were to spring for the PP just to get the armrest, they clearly have more $ than smarts and deserve to be scoffed at.
But yes, I understand what 1pierce is saying. However, I think the lack of a standard CD player (until MY02 anyway) was a better example of nickel & diming the buyer to death.
A 195/65-15 tire is an acceptable substitute for the 205/60-15; in fact, it will probably perform better in inclement weather since it has a narrower contact patch. I have been very happy with the garden variety Artic Alpins. We fitted them to my wife's 3er and the car handled and rode betterthan it did with the OEM Contis. FWIW, I think "Continental" is German for "Sucks REALLY hard"...
I have read quite a bit about stability control but still feel unsure about how a RWD 3 series with stability control compares to cars that I am familiar with, i.e., FWD and AWD without stability control (we have a Camry and an A4 quattro). Could anyone give me an opinion on the following?: Suppose you were about to take an arduous drive in snowy conditions. What would your relative anxiety levels be in those three types of cars? (assuming all-season tires in all of them) Thanks
but, since I know that from reading the posts on this board, many of you aren't just BMW aficionados or fanatics, but, are well-springs of automotive and mechanical knowledge, I have to ask this question -- recently, I checked the oil level on my 330, and noted that I had to add about a quart of oil. I was out-of-town, and it was a Sunday, so the local BMW dealer was closed. I didn't want to run the car "down a quart", so I went to the local WalMart to buy some synthetic motor oil. They did not have Castrol Syntec (which is the OEM oil, from what I have been told), so I bought 2 quarts of Mobil 1 synthetic (5W30), and added 1 quart. I now have 2 different brands of synthetic motor oil, same weight, in my car -- does this pose any kind of problem or danger by mixing brands? They're both synthetic oils, same weight....so, I hope (fingers crossed) that this isn't a bad thing. Brave? Dave? Chris?
Whole-heartedly agree on the nickel and diming thing. I especially have yet to figure out why some models have certain features, while others don't (ie sedan vs conv., etc)
Call some of this 'knit-picking' if you like...but hey! Even my SUV came with alot of this stuff!
2001.5 325i sedan w/ sp,leath,roof,step,cd: no trunk release button no armrest (paid $155 & installed) no cd player (paid extra $200) no outside temp (forgot to add obc when ordering) no light under hood (what's up with that?)
...just a few items off-the-top-of-my-head that come to mind...
My guess is that 10-20% of the time I might want that experience from the 330, and I may regret not getting it. For me, it seems hard to justify not spending the extra $5K, when I'm already spending a big chunk. But, given my typically tame driving, it seems the 325 will evoke a sufficient owner's grin.
Sorry, this question would honestly be out of my league. And it won't matter what anyone of says on the topic till Shipo has spoken ;o) I personally would not worry about mixing different brands of oil, as long as they are both synthetic and have the same weight. I've heard it's not good to add oil to hot oil (i.e. need to wait till engine cools off) but I have not heard anything against mixing brands. And speaking of oil, I need to top off mine by about a quart as well. I am not sure what weight my dealer filled up with originally, though, and I figured I'd better wait till I find out.
The center console is the same regardless of whether you get the PP or not. You still get a bit of storage room there but I agree it would be convenient to have extra room for my make-up and hair brush. I want that stuff really handy at all times ) I personally would have taken the armrest off had BMWNA made it standard on the 3-series. I keep both hands on the wheel at all times (save for shifting) and an armrest would simply get in my way of shifting gears regardless of whether it has a cutout or not. We have an armrest in the A4 (standard) and we keep it pushed all the way back at all times. As far as reliability, note that there are not a lot of other companies out there that would foot the bill for a $1,000 steering retrofit just to appease its enthusiasts. I can live with a couple of cosmetic flaws that the dealer would fix on my next trip anyhow. I am honestly so hooked on the car's driving dynamics that a couple of minor misdemeanors really get lost in the sea of excitement )
I admit that I got a little too passionate about it back then and argued ferociously but I stand by my numbers and reasoning even today. The 325's acceleration is more than adequate with manual tranny but it all depends on your driving style. As far as pony per dollar, the new M3 coupe is only about $40 per pony more expensive over the old model. The 330 works out to be about four times that price, other things equal.
Can someone direct me to the location of the complete list of car and memory worksheet. I went to e46finatics, but the link does not work.
Also, for installing the alarm, someone was saying they had to put something between the sirine and the chassis of the car so it won't rattle. can anyone clarify on what they put in between this?
BMW was 4th in initial quality behind Lexus, Jaguar and nearly tied Acura. Note that BMW was better than Toyota, Mercedes, Infiniti and Honda. Nissan, BTW, didn't even make the list.
It sounds as though you've had good luck with your Maxima, but a single data point says nothing about brand reliability.
I also checked the recent Consumer Reports which showed nearly all excellent ratings for the 2001 3 series under reliability (I think there were 4 above average out of 12 categories, the rest were excellent). It's hard to knock BMW reliability with evidence like that :-)
BTW, Consumer Reports called the 5 series the highest rated vehicle they have ever tested!!
BTW #2, I'm going to try to have the dealer throw in the arm rest if it's not already included on the '02 325i.
The link seems to be gone but I had saved the page. I hope it is legible -
KEY MEMORY OPTIONS
System Function Selection Key 1 Red Label Selection Key 2 Blue Label Description
Automatic locking after 5 mph active not active active
not active When active: all doors are automatically locked after exceeding 5 mph. (Note: Doors can still be unlocked from inside at any time) Selective central unlocking active not active active not active When active: the first time the key’s "unlock" button is pressed; only the driver’s door is unlocked. The second press releases all locks. When not active: the first press of the key releases all locks.
Seat Memory active not active active not active Feature activated in "Car Memory Option". The last seat when the particular key was used is recalled with the next key usage (if active), if vehicle is equipped with seat memory. Vents position - during warm-up active
not active active
not active When active: vents open during engine warm-up. WHAT VENTS ARE WE TALKING ABOUT???? OUTSIDE AIR INTAKE VENTS
Vents position - close footwell when cooling active not active active not active When active: footwell vents are closed when system is in AUTO mode and cooling. (Note: this position will optimize A/C cooling performance
Vents position - close defroster when cooling active not active active not active When active: defroster vents are closed when system is in AUTO mode and cooling. (Note: this position will optimize A/C cooling performance) When not active: will help defog windshield after rain and high humidity. Vents position after ignition on active not active active not active When active: manual control of the air vents will be activated directly by switching the ignition on. DOES THIS OVERIDE ABOVE 3 SETTINGS? DOES THIS OVERIDE THE AUTO-RECIR FEATURE. YES TO BOTH!!! Correction Set Temperature +3 degrees +2 degrees +1 degrees
-1 degrees -2 degrees -3 degrees The temperature setting in the display can be corrected by the said amount. When positive (+) correction is selected, actual temperature in the vehicle is higher then the A/C panel display indicates. The opposite is true for the (-) ranges. A/C on ignition on only with A/C button ignition on only with A/C button The A/C compressor is switched on together with the ignition, or only when the "snow flake" button is pressed. When ignition on selected: will help defog windshield after rain and high humidity. Automatic Blower on active not active active not active When active: the fan blower speed is initially operated in the AUTO mode when the ignition is switched on.
So you plunked down a considerable sum of money on your car. Here's how you can tweak the existing options. The first programming session should be a free service from the dealership, additional programming may incur a fee for labor. Also, the selections available for programming depend on the equipment options of your vehicle. For example, you cannot program seat memory, if you did not purchase power seats. "Car Memory" includes programmed functions that are always activated, regardless of which vehicle key is used. For example, the day-time running lights will always be on, if programmed to do so, no matter who's driving.
"Key Memory" includes programmed functions that can differ, depending on which vehicle key is used. The vehicle key is identified during "unlocking", only when remote control is being used. Up to four different keys can be customized. This allows for up to four drivers to have different set of preferences programmed to their liking. For example, your spouse may like the seats closer to the steering wheel than you, etc.
Text in all caps are comments and Q&As by users of the options. Should you have a comment to add, send me an e-mail. The default settings (set at the factory) are underlined -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CAR MEMORY OPTIONS
System Function Selection Description
Interior protection* active not active * Available only on vehicles with BMW Alarm System. Alarm indicator under the rear-view mirror is commonly known as "The Clown Nose" Tilt Alarm Sensor* active not active
Arm/Disarm by means of:* remote control only locks and remote control If armed by locks, should the lock be "popped" or "punched" by intruders, the alarm will sound, anytime the lock is tampered with. Arm/Disarm Acknowledgment* active not active Disarming of the alarm system is confirmed by a brief blinking of turn signals. Arm/Disarm Acknowledgment* active not active Disarming of the alarm system is confirmed by a brief siren signal. Arm/Disarm Acknowledgment* active not active Arming of the alarm system is confirmed by a brief blinking of turn signals. Arm/Disarm Acknowledgment* active not active Arming of the alarm system is confirmed by a brief siren signal. Arm/Disarm Acknowledgment* active not active Arming of the alarm system is confirmed by a brief blinking of turn signals as soon as hood/trunk are closed. Arm/Disarm Acknowledgment* active; not active Arming of the alarm system is confirmed by a brief siren signal as soon as hood/trunk are closed. Remote Control -interior light active not active
Remote Control - panic mode active not active
Remote Control - trunk opening when disarm always IF ALARM IS SET - WILL THIS TRIGGER ALARM? NO, "CLOWN NOSE" WILL GO INTO CONTINOUS BLINKING SHOWING ALARM IS SET, BUT SYSTEM HAS BEEN BREACHED. WHEN TRUNK IS CLOSED SYSTEM IS RE-ARMED. Remote control - convenience opening active not active Opens windows and sunroof with remote control. Interior Lighting active ? not active When active: interior light is turned on when unlocking Interior Lighting active not active When active: interior light automatically turns on when ignition is switched off after driving with headlights on. Interior Lighting active not active When active: interior light is dimmed when turned on/off. (Soft on/off) Exterior Lighting - Daytime driving lights active not active When active: headlights are in a Daytime running Mode. Exterior Lighting - Pathway lighting active not active When ignition is turned off, and high beams switch is activated momentarily (high beams "flash"), the driving lights are turned on for 40 seconds. Windscreen wipers switch back when stationery (rest at idle) active not active When active: wipers are switched from speed 1 to intermittent, or from speed 2 to speed 1 when the vehicle is stationary. (Note: selection not available with vehicles equipped with "rain sensor") Seat Settings when unlocking when opening a door
not active The automatic seat adjustment is activated by the specific key being used if the vehicle is equipped with seat memory. This setting defines when the actual adjustment starts. Display and Language - units L/100 km mpg (UK)
mpg (US)
km/L Fuel consumption Display and Language - distance* * km mls * * Will change display and calculation in Instrument Cluster, Board Computer and A/C Control Module Display and Language - time* * 12 hr 24 hr
Display and Language - temperature* * degrees C degrees F
Acoustic Warnings - key in ignition active not active An acoustic signal sounds if the ignition key is in the ignition lock when the driver’s door is open.
"One Touch" Driver’s window close (auto up) active not active Single strike function close driver’s door window "One Touch" Passenger window close (auto up) active not active Single strike function close passenger door window "One Touch" Rear windows close (auto up) active not active Single strike function close rear door window "One Touch" Sunroof close (auto close) active not active Single strike function close sunroof Rain Sensor active not active Rain Sensing wiper Only
All in all,...well said. Congratulations on your successful purchase,...we should all be so satisfied (I mean that sincerely - no sarcasm here)!
As long as we can all agree that while these cars are our preference, and make us feel like nothing else can,...they aren't perfect. I like to keep everything concealed in my car. Those door pockets that cars have - they're wasted on me - stuff rattling around and looking sloppy. I'm kind of a neat freak about the inside of my car.
You asked me a while back why I want to lease, and I forgot one key reason: I can't equip my BMW quite to my satisfaction, yet, and keep it at my price point. Yet, I want to drive one NOW, not two years from now. As such, I'm going to lease the nicest BMW that I can afford, and trust that in three years my income will have risen to where I can raise my payment (if I want to). If you plan to trade after 3 years, leasing is less expensive. I'd love to have the HID headlights, HK stereo, and real leather,...as well as SP (and be able to afford BMW winter wheels and tires). But, I just can't afford the payment on that car. My brother did something similar, when he leased a 318i for 30 months. Last year he purchased his upgrade,...a 325i, with all the goodies. He is now TOTALLY satisfied with his new car.
I know I do but I cannot speak for everyone. The twisties are like the cherry on top of your desert but that desert might still be delicious without the cherry. I'd say, take an SP car for a longer ride, push it around a little and see if you like it. Drive the non-SP version back-to-back and compare. You're the only one that could answer your own question.
I understand where you're coming from on the leasing issue. If that's what you have to do to get the car you really like and you really enjoy driving, then it's gotta be worth it.
As far as keeping stuff in the car, it's fair to say that the 3-series offers very limited interior storage space. And you know what? That's perfectly fine with me. Here's what I keep in the car: a 30 CD case in the driver's side pocket, about 10 maps in the passenger side pocket, the owner's manual in the glove compartment and a tire pressure gauge. That's it. Oh, I have an umbrella rolling on the floor somewhere in the back but that's really it. What else do you have to keep inside?!? I feel like I'm missing on something here.
P.S. In case you're wondering, I keep all my XXX tapes in the full-size spare tire ;o)
I had problems with TH for two days. I could not log in and I thought some of you might have encountered the same problem. It seems that they changed some scripts on their server and the Oreos sitting on your c:\ drive are not recognized as the delicious cookies that they are. What I did to resolve the problem is delete my Edmund's and Townhall cookies. You have to delete those files under c:\windows\cookies (anything that starts with edmunds or townhall). then next time you log in and choose automatic login, the cookies should be compatible with the new scripts that Edmunds came up with. Wondering if their technology consulting company is made up of teenage dudes who all went snowboarding with the first snow...
While the Sports Package does make a difference when letting it roll in the twisties, it also makes a difference in every day commute driving. Like Brave said ultimately only you can decide but here is my $.02 worth. If you like a firm (NOT harsh) ride then the SP may be for you. If you like to feel the road and feel like you are driving on rails, then the SP may be for you. If you hate wallowing in bumps or slightly sloppy turn in, then the SP may be for you. If you love the 17" rims, then the SP may be for you. If you like a slightly softer ride that still handles great then the SP may NOT be for you. I had a 325iT as a loaner today as my car was in having the accelerator pedal assembly replaced and the wagon did not have the sport package. I was surprised how well it handled however it was still a little soft for my tastes.
I find it much easier to tolerate service appointments with my car because I know I can always count on friendly, competent & quick service with a loaner car. I am usually in & out in 10 minutes and the dealer is only 5 miles from my house. BTW this is only the 2nd time my car has been in since I bought it. Both times were for minor problems that were addressed and fixed. This time it was the seat belt anchor rattle TSB and a slightly sticky accelerator pedal. The highlight of the day was a 1973 Ferrari 246 Dino GTS on the show room floor. it was in immaculate condition (except for the trail of drool I left accross the beltline!!) It was of course Ferrari red. IMHO NO other car can wear that color like a Ferrari!! After 13,500 miles in 6 month's of owning this car, it just keeps getting better.
I just got back on after two days. I thought the TownHall site had a brain hemorrhage or something. I then tried another computer and got in no problem. After trying a few things on mine, I deleted all Edmunds Chocolate-Chocolate Chip Cookies (I like Oreos too) and presto, I am back. All in all, a bad move by somebody to bugger up the cookies like that.
I see that Oil is once again a topic of conversation. It has also been an issue on my brain for the last week or so. I happened to open the oil filler cap last week and caught a whiff of what smelled very much like a classic Pennsylvania Crude/Paraffin based oil (as in Quaker State and Penzoil), and NOT a synthetic oil such as Castrol Syntech (Castrol makes BMW Synthetic oil) or Mobil 1. Alarm Bell #1. With that whiff, I looked closer inside the cam cover and saw much more varnish and discoloration that I have come to expect from my many years of using Mobil 1 on my cars. Alarm Bell #2.
At the same time, I have been following some of the Mercedes-Benz boards, and one of them has had an oil discussion that has made the following points:
- Mercedes-Benz uses Mobil 1 0W-40 as the factory fill, and is the recommended oil
- Mobil 1 0W-40 is also approved (in Europe) for all BMWs (as well as other cars)
- Mobil (in their infinite wisdom) does NOT distribute 0W-40 here in the US, however, SOME dealerships are able to bring the oil in from Europe
- At one point in time, Penzoil had an exclusive deal with ALL Mercedes-Benz dealerships here in the states and MANY BMW dealerships as well (my BMW dealership has a sister MB dealership), and many of those dealerships STILL use Penzoil
Alarm Bell #3
Having said all of this, I am going to eat my own words, and change my own oil ASAP only 2,500 miles after my dealership (allegedly) did it. GASP! Shipo, THE advocate of the 15,000 mile oil change is going to change his own oil at 2,500 miles??? Yes Virginia, and he will eat plenty of crow too! Paaaaah! Feathers, Yuck!
After a lengthy search, I have found a single source of Mobil 1 0W-40 oil here in the US, unfortunately, I cannot give y’all a direct URL because it is via Yahoo! Shopping. If you are interested, click yourself to Yahoo! Shopping and then query for “Mobil 1 Oil”, currently, the sixth listing is for “Park Place Motorcars” (I think that they are a Dallas based Mercedes-Benz dealership). Park Place charges $5.85 per quart (not exactly cheap, however, cheaper than RedLine) plus a flat $3.50 shipping charge anywhere here in the US.
In all fairness, I do not actually KNOW for sure that my car has been given a fill of Dino Juice, and I am not sure that I would believe my dealership if they told me that my car had Synthetic in the Oil-Pan. The only sure bet in my case is to change my own oil.
I do not want to cause mass panic, but I just want you to be SURE that if you intend to go 15K on an oil change, that you have Synthetic oil in the pan.
Thanks for your feedback. I wish I had the opportunity to test drive an SP and stock 325 back to back. The local dealer is very small (Anchorage) without much to demo. The next closest dealer is literaly 1000s of miles away. The roads within a 100 mile radius of my house are fairly straight with very few twisties to appreciate a true sports car of any kind. So, you may be asking why we are considering a 325xi? Well my wife has 2 features that must be on the next car, AWD and Fold Down rear seats, as far as I know the only sedans to consider in our price range (~35k) are the 325xi and Audi A4 1.8T. We test drove a 325xi wagon without SP and an A4 1.8T with the Audi sports package. We both liked the 325 better.
We get ruts in our highways caused by heavy use of studded tires. These ruts can cause some cars to pull left then right continuosly unless you drive off center and keep both wheels out of the ruts. The A4 tended to pull left and right, not as bad as a Ford Tempo I owned years ago, but bad enough to eliminate the A4 from our short list. The 325 didn't pull at all. My wife is concerned if we add the SP to the 325xi it may handle similar to the A4 with regards to the ruts. I don't know if the sports suspension has anything to do with the feel of the car in these ruts. Any thoughts you can share would be appreciated.
Finally took the plunge after many months of comparing the 325i w/ the A4...I did it! I bought the 325i! Steel Grey, Premium pkg, cold wx pkg, xenon lights, and the steptronic....I got a fairly good deal since i'm stationed in Germany. Everything for $30020.00 out the door. Now I just have to wait for the January production cycle! Just wanted to say thanks for all the good msgs on this board... -brian
TWICE this morning. Without it, it would have been guaranteed tickets both times.
One of my colleagues got upgraded to a Jag S Type rental (that takes serious skill!!) so I have to figure out what kind of bribes he takes for a drive.
... that the second alert was a cruiser that came from behind. I got a warning long before I could see the lights above other cars behind me - he must have been at least 3/4 mile behind when I got the warning. Very impressive!!
The SP on X cars is mostly cosmetic. From what I've heard, it does not offer a stiffer ride. However, I'd say, the SP is a big no-no in your situation. The money would be wasted on flat straight roads with very little traffic where all you do is cruising.
I've got a 330i sport package. The rear bumper has this black plastic trim on the lower portion that extends all the way to the bottom and the exhaust. Yesterday I was behind another silver 330 and it had the plastic too, but at the very bottom before the exhaust there was a strio of body colored trim. Is the sport pachage different or is this a random variation like the titanium headlite trim?
Also after 2 months I'm very glad I got the retro fit.
Finally, i cross rotated my two front tires and it seems to have diminished the unbalanced steering feel. I don't think I will be getting contis next time. Why do people seem to prefer the bridgestones to Michelins. I once had a clint who held high positions with bridgeatone. He said no tire is made as well as michelins.
Correct me if I am wrong, but I think the reference to sport package being wasted on an iX is because the iX already has the sport package suspension. In Canada, on a 325, the sport package is comprised of sport suspension, sport seats, sport steering wheel and 17" wheel. If you move up to the 325iX, the car already has the sport suspension so the sport package is cheaper than on a 325i, and is comprised of sport seats, sport wheel and 17" instead of 16". So while 17" may perform better than 16", I agree, that on the iX, the sport package is largely cosmetic (altho' the sport seats do have better side bolsters).
We get ruts in our highways caused by heavy use of studded tires. These ruts can cause some cars to pull left then right continuously unless you drive off center and keep both wheels out of the ruts.
Is there a difference in the track width between the two cars that's responsible for the difference you experienced, or is it something more to do with overall geometry, etc?
-hh
PS: Anchorage, eh? Wish we would have had more time in the museum downtown while we were up there this past summer. BTW, can I talk ya into maybe shipping a couple of Copper River Salmon down this way next summer? :-) All the local fish market places have is farm raised...its not the same.
I think you may be referring to the 330iX. I don't think the sport suspension is even offered on the 325ix, even in the SP. I may be wrong, but I just got the brochure, and I have been studying it pretty hard for the last few days. In fact, I read that none of the iX models was available with the sport suspension, until last March, when they made it standard on the 330iX.
In Canada, (and I note that option packages are often quite different in Canada and the US) the brochure clearly states that the sports suspension is standard on the 325iX and the Sport Package (CDN$1,700) has 17" wheels, sport seats and sport steering wheel.
I think Brave is right, I don't think the stiffer suspension is a part of the SP on the iX cars. That said, I agree (tongue-in-cheek), that the SP is probably NEVER a "waste". It affects the cosmetics of the car. I wouldn't pay extra for it, though, without the suspension.
It's all a value judgment (and a very tough one for some of us): firmer ride and better handling or more comfort over bumps; more road noise or quieter ride; better winter traction without added cost or better handling in the dry; sportier steering wheel and more laterally supportive seats or lower initial cost. No doubt the tires offer different height profile and driving character than all seasons. As far as wheel size, I personally think that with the same suspension and tires, there is only a paper difference in performance with 17" wheels vs 16" wheels - something you wouldn't realize except on a track. I think the industry-wide move to bigger wheels is just a marketing and cosmetic trend, once you get over 16". But they do look different, so that may be a factor in someone's buying decision.
I bet they sell MANY more iX models in Canada that in the US - that probably is why the SP suspension is part of the base model. If I lived in Canada, I would definitely get the iX. You guys live with much more snow than almost any part of the US, and I wouldn't have RWD if I lived in a snowy place.
I would have no reservations about getting an iX w/out SP (since you get the suspension anyway), if I lived in Canada. Do you have one? If so, I'll bet you love it!
I feel like there's a crossfire on the board - a lot of people talking about seemingly the same thing (x SP) but somehow the proper communication is getting lost... Let me try to straighten out a couple of things. First, it's xi, not ix. ix pertains to late 80's AWD BMW's which used a different system from the current xi setup. Now, from what I've seen, the sport package in the U.S. is only standard on the 330 RWD models, not on the 330xi. The reason why the SP for the xi is cheaper than the SP for the i (in both Canada and the U.S.) is because the suspension does not change between the i and xi models. It's a well-known fact that other things equal, in snow and mud you get better handling with a softer suspension because you need longer suspension travel. The stiffer the suspension, the more the car ends up sliding in snow/ice/mud. Since BMWNA has decided that the average buyer will be getting the xi for added safety in inclement weather, they do not offer the stiffer suspension on the xi's and save for the seats, the SP upgrade is purely cosmetic.
As far as advising other posters in general, I try to customize my response to each person's individual circumstances. I think ultimately that is more helpful than a one-size-fits-all type of approach. I cannot advice someone living in Anchorage the same as someone living in, say, PA. mcnal01's major concern is with the SP's ride on bad roads. I have mentioned multiple times in the past that the SP is a key contributor to the 3-series' driving excitement but I could never go and say that the money spent on an SP could never be wasted. Yes, it could be a waste and even a detriment to someone - the SP is not for everyone. It depends on the roads you drive on, type of weather you live in, your preferred driving style, how much use you make of it and especially how much money you want to pay for performance and looks.
i think you'll find a somewhat equal split between bridgestone and michelin guys...
i think you'll find a consistent response as to the quality of the contis...
fwiw, the length of available suspension travel and stiffness have NADA to do with each other... how much of that travel is used is determined by how stiff the suspension is... and a softer suspension will generally ALWAYS make a car "handle" worse (contrary to "well-known facts"), but it WILL make it ride smoother during winter when you are navigating through the ice floes that are frozen on the street (contact patch, tread design and rubber compound will primarily determine how much you slip and slide... but what do i know...
frankly, the difference in firmness between the "normal" and the sp ain't gonna be a hill of beans if the roads are really bad... people talk about the sp as if it's as firm as a rock (i.e. like a f1 car)... it's really not that much firmer than standard... but again, what do i know, i have bilstein's on mine...
someone asked earlier about differences between 325 and 330, and the opinion was given that it's just the engine. it's not. besides different brakes, there's several other differences. go pick up a brochure at your favorite dealer for the 3-series, they are outlined in there...
All thanks for the input, I checked the SP descriptions at bmwusa.com for the 325xi and 325i.
Indeed the SP package on the xi is cosmetic, no mention of "sport suspension calibration" in the xi description
352xi SPORTS PACKAGE 3-spoke leather-wrapped multi-function sport steering wheel with fingertip cruise, audio, and accessory phone5 controls; 12-way adjustable front sport seats (includes 2-way headrests and thigh support); 3-driver memory for exterior mirror and seat positions; automatic tilt-down of passenger's side-view mirror when vehicle is shifted into reverse gear1; 17 x 7.0 Radial Spoke (Styling 73) alloy wheels, 205/50R-17 all-season tires.
352i SPORTS PACKAGE 3-spoke leather-wrapped multi-function sport steering wheel with fingertip cruise, audio and accessory phone controls5; 12-way adjustable front seats (includes 2-way headrests and thigh supports); sport suspension calibration; 17 x 8.0 Star Spoke (Styling 96) alloy wheels, 225/45R-17 performance tires.
huntzinger I checked the track specs on the A4 and the 325. A4 = 60.2" 325 = 57.9" the 2.3" difference may be what causes the pulling in the A4 in the rutted roads. Your'e right, you can't beat fresh wild salmon, my boys catch them a few miles from the house, the fish never see a freezer, just hours old before hitting the grill.
Anyone have experience with an xi on snow and icy roads?
Someone got ink on my passenger seat. Its just 2 small 1/2 inch lines, but I can't seem to get them out. I tried lexol cleaner, but it only made the marks lighter. A couple weeks ago I conditioned the seat with lexol conditioner. Any suggestions, my co-worker recommended saddle soap...but I thought I'd first ask the experts. Please help
Last I read from BMW is they said they would not build an E46 M3 sedan. I can't remember why, but I suspect it had something to do with four doors not equaling the sport image they disired for the M3. I think they were also worried about taking sales away from the M5. I read this about a year ago, so maybe something has changed.
roc50mg, I'll take a wild guess and say MY2004 or 5. I think the new 5er comes MY2003. A revival of the 6 series will be based on the new 5er platform. I could be wrong about the timing; it's been a while since I've read about this stuff.
Comments
roc50mg: Besides, I didn't say Japanese cars are "better",...I just said they don't break as often. Hard to argue with that, statistics, and consumer review web sites bare it out. I don't want to stay w/Japanese cars because I want to drive something more than a semi-sporty appliance. The armrest thing is obviously a marketing gimmick (a frustrating one, nevertheless), designed to tempt people to spring for the PP. Alot of corporations do this (I am an amateur photographer, and Nikon is notorious for this. I still shoot Nikon, though). Why can't you just accept the relative strengths and weaknesses of various cars w/out declaring a holy war? Take a valium and calm down.
But yes, I understand what 1pierce is saying. However, I think the lack of a standard CD player (until MY02 anyway) was a better example of nickel & diming the buyer to death.
Thanks
Thanks...Ray
Call some of this 'knit-picking' if you like...but hey! Even my SUV came with alot of this stuff!
2001.5 325i sedan w/ sp,leath,roof,step,cd:
no trunk release button
no armrest (paid $155 & installed)
no cd player (paid extra $200)
no outside temp (forgot to add obc when ordering)
no light under hood (what's up with that?)
...just a few items off-the-top-of-my-head that come to mind...
I'd appreciate comments from either side, and hopefully no flames for re-hashing this topic.
As you can see above, I went with the 325, and have no regrets. Seems like the primary difference btwn the two is the engine.
all imho, of course
My guess is that 10-20% of the time I might want that experience from the 330, and I may regret not getting it. For me, it seems hard to justify not spending the extra $5K, when I'm already spending a big chunk. But, given my typically tame driving, it seems the 325 will evoke a sufficient owner's grin.
Still vacilating.
brave1heart "BMW 3-Series Owners: FAQ" Jun 1, 2001 10:01am
I admit that I got a little too passionate about it back then and argued ferociously but I stand by my numbers and reasoning even today. The 325's acceleration is more than adequate with manual tranny but it all depends on your driving style. As far as pony per dollar, the new M3 coupe is only about $40 per pony more expensive over the old model. The 330 works out to be about four times that price, other things equal.
Also, for installing the alarm, someone was saying they had to put something between the sirine and the chassis of the car so it won't rattle. can anyone clarify on what they put in between this?
http://www.auto.com/industry/iqs18_20010518.htm
BMW was 4th in initial quality behind Lexus, Jaguar and nearly tied Acura. Note that BMW was better than Toyota, Mercedes, Infiniti and Honda. Nissan, BTW, didn't even make the list.
It sounds as though you've had good luck with your Maxima, but a single data point says nothing about brand reliability.
I also checked the recent Consumer Reports which showed nearly all excellent ratings for the 2001 3 series under reliability (I think there were 4 above average out of 12 categories, the rest were excellent). It's hard to knock BMW reliability with evidence like that :-)
BTW, Consumer Reports called the 5 series the highest rated vehicle they have ever tested!!
BTW #2, I'm going to try to have the dealer throw in the arm rest if it's not already included on the '02 325i.
-Murray
KEY MEMORY OPTIONS
System Function
Selection Key
1
Red Label
Selection Key
2
Blue Label
Description
Automatic locking after 5 mph active
not active
active
not active
When active: all doors are automatically locked after exceeding 5 mph. (Note: Doors can still be unlocked from inside at any time)
Selective central unlocking active
not active
active
not active
When active: the first time the key’s "unlock" button is pressed; only the driver’s door is unlocked. The second press releases all locks.
When not active: the first press of the key releases all locks.
Seat Memory active
not active
active
not active
Feature activated in "Car Memory Option". The last seat when the particular key was used is recalled with the next key usage (if active), if vehicle is equipped with seat memory.
Vents position - during warm-up active
not active
active
not active
When active: vents open during engine warm-up.
WHAT VENTS ARE WE TALKING ABOUT???? OUTSIDE AIR INTAKE VENTS
Vents position - close footwell when cooling active
not active
active
not active
When active: footwell vents are closed when system is in AUTO mode and cooling. (Note: this position will optimize A/C cooling performance
Vents position - close defroster when cooling active
not active
active
not active
When active: defroster vents are closed when system is in AUTO mode and cooling. (Note: this position will optimize A/C cooling performance) When not active: will help defog windshield after rain and high humidity.
Vents position after ignition on active
not active
active
not active
When active: manual control of the air vents will be activated directly by switching the ignition on. DOES THIS OVERIDE ABOVE 3 SETTINGS? DOES THIS OVERIDE THE AUTO-RECIR FEATURE. YES TO BOTH!!!
Correction Set Temperature +3 degrees
+2 degrees
+1 degrees
not active
-1 degrees
-2 degrees
-3 degrees +3 degrees
+2 degrees
+1 degrees
not active
-1 degrees
-2 degrees
-3 degrees The temperature setting in the display can be corrected by the said amount. When positive (+) correction is selected, actual temperature in the vehicle is higher then the A/C panel display indicates. The opposite is true for the (-) ranges.
A/C on ignition on
only with A/C button
ignition on
only with A/C button
The A/C compressor is switched on together with the ignition, or only when the "snow flake" button is pressed. When ignition on selected: will help defog windshield after rain and high humidity.
Automatic Blower on active
not active
active
not active
When active: the fan blower speed is initially operated in the AUTO mode when the ignition is switched on.
The first programming session should be a free service from the dealership, additional programming may incur a fee for labor.
Also, the selections available for programming depend on the equipment options of your vehicle.
For example, you cannot program seat memory, if you did not purchase power seats.
"Car Memory" includes programmed functions that are always activated, regardless of which vehicle key is used.
For example, the day-time running lights will always be on, if programmed to do so, no matter who's driving.
"Key Memory" includes programmed functions that can differ, depending on which vehicle key is used. The vehicle key is identified during "unlocking", only when remote control is being used. Up to four different keys can be customized. This allows for up to four drivers to have different set of preferences programmed to their liking.
For example, your spouse may like the seats closer to the steering wheel than you, etc.
Text in all caps are comments and Q&As by users of the options. Should you have a comment to add, send me an e-mail.
The default settings (set at the factory) are underlined
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CAR MEMORY OPTIONS
System Function
Selection
Description
Interior protection* active
not active
* Available only on vehicles with BMW Alarm System.
Alarm indicator under the rear-view mirror is commonly known as "The Clown Nose"
Tilt Alarm Sensor* active
not active
Arm/Disarm by means of:* remote control only
locks and remote control
If armed by locks, should the lock be "popped" or "punched" by intruders, the alarm will sound, anytime the lock is tampered with.
Arm/Disarm Acknowledgment* active
not active
Disarming of the alarm system is confirmed by a brief blinking of turn signals.
Arm/Disarm Acknowledgment* active
not active
Disarming of the alarm system is confirmed by a brief siren signal.
Arm/Disarm Acknowledgment* active
not active
Arming of the alarm system is confirmed by a brief blinking of turn signals.
Arm/Disarm Acknowledgment* active
not active
Arming of the alarm system is confirmed by a brief siren signal.
Arm/Disarm Acknowledgment* active
not active
Arming of the alarm system is confirmed by a brief blinking of turn signals as soon as hood/trunk are closed.
Arm/Disarm Acknowledgment* active;
not active
Arming of the alarm system is confirmed by a brief siren signal as soon as hood/trunk are closed.
Remote Control -interior light active
not active
Remote Control - panic mode active
not active
Remote Control - trunk opening when disarm
always
IF ALARM IS SET - WILL THIS TRIGGER ALARM? NO, "CLOWN NOSE" WILL GO INTO CONTINOUS BLINKING SHOWING ALARM IS SET, BUT SYSTEM HAS BEEN BREACHED. WHEN TRUNK IS CLOSED SYSTEM IS RE-ARMED.
Remote control - convenience opening active
not active
Opens windows and sunroof with remote control.
Interior Lighting active ?
not active
When active: interior light is turned on when unlocking
Interior Lighting active
not active
When active: interior light automatically turns on when ignition is switched off after driving with headlights on.
Interior Lighting active
not active
When active: interior light is dimmed when turned on/off. (Soft on/off)
Exterior Lighting - Daytime driving lights active
not active
When active: headlights are in a Daytime running Mode.
Exterior Lighting - Pathway lighting active
not active
When ignition is turned off, and high beams switch is activated momentarily (high beams "flash"), the driving lights are turned on for 40 seconds.
Windscreen wipers switch back when stationery (rest at idle) active
not active
When active: wipers are switched from speed 1 to intermittent, or from speed 2 to speed 1 when the vehicle is stationary. (Note: selection not available with vehicles equipped with "rain sensor")
Seat Settings when unlocking
when opening a door
not active
The automatic seat adjustment is activated by the specific key being used if the vehicle is equipped with seat memory. This setting defines when the actual adjustment starts.
Display and Language - units L/100 km
mpg (UK)
mpg (US)
km/L
Fuel consumption
Display and Language - distance* * km
mls
* * Will change display and calculation in Instrument Cluster, Board Computer and A/C Control Module
Display and Language - time* * 12 hr
24 hr
Display and Language - temperature* * degrees C
degrees F
Acoustic Warnings - key in ignition active
not active
An acoustic signal sounds if the ignition key is in the ignition lock when the driver’s door is open.
"One Touch" Driver’s window close (auto up) active
not active
Single strike function close driver’s door window
"One Touch" Passenger window close (auto up) active
not active
Single strike function close passenger door window
"One Touch" Rear windows close (auto up) active
not active
Single strike function close rear door window
"One Touch" Sunroof close (auto close) active
not active
Single strike function close sunroof
Rain Sensor active
not active
Rain Sensing wiper Only
- back to top -
As long as we can all agree that while these cars are our preference, and make us feel like nothing else can,...they aren't perfect. I like to keep everything concealed in my car. Those door pockets that cars have - they're wasted on me - stuff rattling around and looking sloppy. I'm kind of a neat freak about the inside of my car.
You asked me a while back why I want to lease, and I forgot one key reason: I can't equip my BMW quite to my satisfaction, yet, and keep it at my price point. Yet, I want to drive one NOW, not two years from now. As such, I'm going to lease the nicest BMW that I can afford, and trust that in three years my income will have risen to where I can raise my payment (if I want to). If you plan to trade after 3 years, leasing is less expensive. I'd love to have the HID headlights, HK stereo, and real leather,...as well as SP (and be able to afford BMW winter wheels and tires). But, I just can't afford the payment on that car. My brother did something similar, when he leased a 318i for 30 months. Last year he purchased his upgrade,...a 325i, with all the goodies. He is now TOTALLY satisfied with his new car.
As far as keeping stuff in the car, it's fair to say that the 3-series offers very limited interior storage space. And you know what? That's perfectly fine with me. Here's what I keep in the car: a 30 CD case in the driver's side pocket, about 10 maps in the passenger side pocket, the owner's manual in the glove compartment and a tire pressure gauge. That's it. Oh, I have an umbrella rolling on the floor somewhere in the back but that's really it. What else do you have to keep inside?!? I feel like I'm missing on something here.
P.S. In case you're wondering, I keep all my XXX tapes in the full-size spare tire ;o)
If you like a firm (NOT harsh) ride then the SP may be for you. If you like to feel the road and feel like you are driving on rails, then the SP may be for you. If you hate wallowing in bumps or slightly sloppy turn in, then the SP may be for you. If you love the 17" rims, then the SP may be for you. If you like a slightly softer ride that still handles great then the SP may NOT be for you.
I had a 325iT as a loaner today as my car was in having the accelerator pedal assembly replaced and the wagon did not have the sport package. I was surprised how well it handled however it was still a little soft for my tastes.
The highlight of the day was a 1973 Ferrari 246 Dino GTS on the show room floor. it was in immaculate condition (except for the trail of drool I left accross the beltline!!) It was of course Ferrari red. IMHO NO other car can wear that color like a Ferrari!!
After 13,500 miles in 6 month's of owning this car, it just keeps getting better.
I see that Oil is once again a topic of conversation. It has also been an issue on my brain for the last week or so. I happened to open the oil filler cap last week and caught a whiff of what smelled very much like a classic Pennsylvania Crude/Paraffin based oil (as in Quaker State and Penzoil), and NOT a synthetic oil such as Castrol Syntech (Castrol makes BMW Synthetic oil) or Mobil 1. Alarm Bell #1. With that whiff, I looked closer inside the cam cover and saw much more varnish and discoloration that I have come to expect from my many years of using Mobil 1 on my cars. Alarm Bell #2.
At the same time, I have been following some of the Mercedes-Benz boards, and one of them has had an oil discussion that has made the following points:
- Mercedes-Benz uses Mobil 1 0W-40 as the factory fill, and is the recommended oil
- Mobil 1 0W-40 is also approved (in Europe) for all BMWs (as well as other cars)
- Mobil (in their infinite wisdom) does NOT distribute 0W-40 here in the US, however, SOME dealerships are able to bring the oil in from Europe
- At one point in time, Penzoil had an exclusive deal with ALL Mercedes-Benz dealerships here in the states and MANY BMW dealerships as well (my BMW dealership has a sister MB dealership), and many of those dealerships STILL use Penzoil
Alarm Bell #3
Having said all of this, I am going to eat my own words, and change my own oil ASAP only 2,500 miles after my dealership (allegedly) did it. GASP! Shipo, THE advocate of the 15,000 mile oil change is going to change his own oil at 2,500 miles??? Yes Virginia, and he will eat plenty of crow too! Paaaaah! Feathers, Yuck!
After a lengthy search, I have found a single source of Mobil 1 0W-40 oil here in the US, unfortunately, I cannot give y’all a direct URL because it is via Yahoo! Shopping. If you are interested, click yourself to Yahoo! Shopping and then query for “Mobil 1 Oil”, currently, the sixth listing is for “Park Place Motorcars” (I think that they are a Dallas based Mercedes-Benz dealership). Park Place charges $5.85 per quart (not exactly cheap, however, cheaper than RedLine) plus a flat $3.50 shipping charge anywhere here in the US.
In all fairness, I do not actually KNOW for sure that my car has been given a fill of Dino Juice, and I am not sure that I would believe my dealership if they told me that my car had Synthetic in the Oil-Pan. The only sure bet in my case is to change my own oil.
I do not want to cause mass panic, but I just want you to be SURE that if you intend to go 15K on an oil change, that you have Synthetic oil in the pan.
Best Regards,
Shipo
We get ruts in our highways caused by heavy use of studded tires. These ruts can cause some cars to pull left then right continuosly unless you drive off center and keep both wheels out of the ruts. The A4 tended to pull left and right, not as bad as a Ford Tempo I owned years ago, but bad enough to eliminate the A4 from our short list. The 325 didn't pull at all. My wife is concerned if we add the SP to the 325xi it may handle similar to the A4 with regards to the ruts. I don't know if the sports suspension has anything to do with the feel of the car in these ruts. Any thoughts you can share would be appreciated.
-brian
One of my colleagues got upgraded to a Jag S Type rental (that takes serious skill!!) so I have to figure out what kind of bribes he takes for a drive.
However, I'd say, the SP is a big no-no in your situation. The money would be wasted on flat straight roads with very little traffic where all you do is cruising.
awl - ummm... add awl whenever it needs it, regardless of hot or not...
-Chris
I've got a 330i sport package. The rear bumper has this black plastic trim on the lower portion that extends all the way to the bottom and the exhaust. Yesterday I was behind another silver 330 and it had the plastic too, but at the very bottom before the exhaust there was a strio of body colored trim. Is the sport pachage different or is this a random variation like the titanium headlite trim?
Also after 2 months I'm very glad I got the retro fit.
Finally, i cross rotated my two front tires and it seems to have diminished the unbalanced steering feel. I don't think I will be getting contis next time. Why do people seem to prefer the bridgestones to Michelins. I once had a clint who held high positions with bridgeatone. He said no tire is made as well as michelins.
In Canada, on a 325, the sport package is comprised of sport suspension, sport seats, sport steering wheel and 17" wheel. If you move up to the 325iX, the car already has the sport suspension so the sport package is cheaper than on a 325i, and is comprised of sport seats, sport wheel and 17" instead of 16". So while 17" may perform better than 16", I agree, that on the iX, the sport package is largely cosmetic (altho' the sport seats do have better side bolsters).
Is there a difference in the track width between the two cars that's responsible for the difference you experienced, or is it something more to do with overall geometry, etc?
-hh
PS: Anchorage, eh? Wish we would have had more time in the museum downtown while we were up there this past summer. BTW, can I talk ya into maybe shipping a couple of Copper River Salmon down this way next summer? :-) All the local fish market places have is farm raised...its not the same.
It's all a value judgment (and a very tough one for some of us): firmer ride and better handling or more comfort over bumps; more road noise or quieter ride; better winter traction without added cost or better handling in the dry; sportier steering wheel and more laterally supportive seats or lower initial cost. No doubt the tires offer different height profile and driving character than all seasons. As far as wheel size, I personally think that with the same suspension and tires, there is only a paper difference in performance with 17" wheels vs 16" wheels - something you wouldn't realize except on a track. I think the industry-wide move to bigger wheels is just a marketing and cosmetic trend, once you get over 16". But they do look different, so that may be a factor in someone's buying decision.
I would have no reservations about getting an iX w/out SP (since you get the suspension anyway), if I lived in Canada. Do you have one? If so, I'll bet you love it!
As far as advising other posters in general, I try to customize my response to each person's individual circumstances. I think ultimately that is more helpful than a one-size-fits-all type of approach. I cannot advice someone living in Anchorage the same as someone living in, say, PA. mcnal01's major concern is with the SP's ride on bad roads. I have mentioned multiple times in the past that the SP is a key contributor to the 3-series' driving excitement but I could never go and say that the money spent on an SP could never be wasted. Yes, it could be a waste and even a detriment to someone - the SP is not for everyone. It depends on the roads you drive on, type of weather you live in, your preferred driving style, how much use you make of it and especially how much money you want to pay for performance and looks.
i think you'll find a consistent response as to the quality of the contis...
fwiw, the length of available suspension travel and stiffness have NADA to do with each other... how much of that travel is used is determined by how stiff the suspension is... and a softer suspension will generally ALWAYS make a car "handle" worse (contrary to "well-known facts"), but it WILL make it ride smoother during winter when you are navigating through the ice floes that are frozen on the street (contact patch, tread design and rubber compound will primarily determine how much you slip and slide... but what do i know...
frankly, the difference in firmness between the "normal" and the sp ain't gonna be a hill of beans if the roads are really bad... people talk about the sp as if it's as firm as a rock (i.e. like a f1 car)... it's really not that much firmer than standard... but again, what do i know, i have bilstein's on mine...
someone asked earlier about differences between 325 and 330, and the opinion was given that it's just the engine. it's not. besides different brakes, there's several other differences. go pick up a brochure at your favorite dealer for the 3-series, they are outlined in there...
-Chris
Indeed the SP package on the xi is cosmetic, no mention of "sport suspension calibration" in the xi description
352xi SPORTS PACKAGE
3-spoke leather-wrapped multi-function sport steering wheel with fingertip cruise, audio, and accessory phone5 controls; 12-way adjustable front sport seats (includes 2-way headrests and thigh support); 3-driver memory for exterior mirror and seat positions; automatic tilt-down of passenger's side-view mirror when vehicle is shifted into reverse gear1; 17 x 7.0 Radial Spoke (Styling 73) alloy wheels, 205/50R-17 all-season tires.
352i SPORTS PACKAGE
3-spoke leather-wrapped multi-function sport steering wheel with fingertip cruise, audio and accessory phone controls5; 12-way adjustable front seats (includes 2-way headrests and thigh supports); sport suspension calibration; 17 x 8.0 Star Spoke (Styling 96) alloy wheels, 225/45R-17 performance tires.
huntzinger
I checked the track specs on the A4 and the 325.
A4 = 60.2"
325 = 57.9"
the 2.3" difference may be what causes the pulling in the A4 in the rutted roads.
Your'e right, you can't beat fresh wild salmon, my boys catch them a few miles from the house, the fish never see a freezer, just hours old before hitting the grill.
Anyone have experience with an xi on snow and icy roads?
Josh
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD