Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Hmmm, Boston this Spring Mind if I crash the party in my Dodge Caravan? ;-)
SnyderW,
As I have a fair amount of experience with a 1999 328i, I can offer you some advice regarding your post. First, the “Rocker Arms” are probably “Control Arms”, which, based upon my understanding, BMW has decided to replace (free of charge) for all 1999 E46 models. Mine were replaced during my 30K service appointment.
The brakes, however, are a different matter. I have had entirely too many mechanics (not just BMW mechanics mind you) tell me that “You need brakes”, only to discover that there were an easy 10K miles left on the pads. Given that A) your car has a sensor connected to a light on the dash that will illuminate when your pads are getting low, and like most other manufacturers these days, BMW recommends that you do a complete Pad and Rotor replacement when performing a brake job, I recommend that you just keep driving the car until the light comes on.
All of that said, when the light does come on, you have three options:
1) Let your dealership replace the brakes for $465
2) Find a local mechanic who will most likely do them for between $325 and $375
3) Do the work yourself for about $225
I chose option 3 for my 328i, I bought the parts from Steve at www.ulitmategarage.com (Factory Pads, Rotors and new Sensor) for $225 (per axle) and I was able to perform the work myself with minimal tools (you will need a torque wrench though) in about 30-45 minutes per wheel. I did this work about a year ago, and I posted a step by step how-to, which I should be able to find if you think you might like to go this route.
Everybody,
Thanks for all of your good wishes and vibes, I know that they are going to help me “Get back in the saddle” quicker. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
My wife has a 2000 Maxima and ever since I got my new wheels I have been pressuring her to think about a 540 wagon. I just can't stand the mushy/floating sensations her car evokes.
Best of luck to you. Glad to hear from you again.
Parts: (purchased from Steve at http://www.ultimategarage.com (keep in mind that these are March 2002 prices))
Rotors -- $46 x 2 = $92
Single Axle Pad Set: $46
Brake Sensor: $12
Total: $150
Tools:
Torque wrench
17mm socket (wheel studs)
16mm socket or 16mm box wrench (caliper bolts)
A set of metric allen keys (I never checked to see which size)-(Rotor retaining bolt)
A big old honking flat bladed screw driver
A 14” stack of old news papers or a bent up old wire hanger (to hold up the caliper)
Goop Hand cleaner (or equivalent)
Procedure:
1) Loosen the five wheel bolts on a single wheel a half turn each (making sure to use the “Star” pattern)
2) Jack up the car and remove the wheel (make sure to chock the wheels at the other end of the car).
3) Work the flat blade of the screw driver between the inside brake pad and the rotor and gradually pry the two apart. Keep working the pad back until the piston is fully compressed.
4) Loosen the two 16mm caliper bolts behind the caliper bracket, and remove the bottom bolt.
5) Stack 14" of newspapers (preferable bound with twine or some such) to the rear of the wheel well, or position the wire hanger from the spring so that you can hang the caliper without damaging the brake line.
6) Remove the top caliper bolt, and rest the caliper on the stack of papers or hang it from the wire.
7) Remove the single rotor retaining bolt with an Allen key and slide the rotor off the hub.
8) Remove the spring clip between the caliper bracket and the caliper.
9) Remove the brake pads from the caliper and slide the caliper bracket off of the caliper (these are floating calipers so the bracket should slide smoothly off to the rear).
10) Wash the new rotor in a good concentration of dish soap, rinse and mount the new rotor and secure with the retaining bolt, tighten with the Allen key.
11) Slide the bracket back on the caliper.
12) Insert the new brake pads in the caliper.
13) Re-attach the spring clip between the caliper and the caliper bracket.
14) Slide the caliper over the new rotor, and thread the top caliper bolt.
15) Remove the stack of papers, insert the bottom bolt and tighten both bolts to about 100 ft/lbs.
16) (Left front only) Snap the sensor in place on the inside brake pad ("bump" toward rotor), and connect the sensor to the "Box" in the wheel well thus replacing the old one.
17) Mount the wheel, and screw in the wheel bolts finger tight.
18) Lower the car to the ground and tighten the wheel bolts to 72 ft/lbs in a "Star" pattern.
19) Repeat for the other wheel.
It really is that easy. ;-)
Assuming that this brake job was triggered by the amber brake warning light on the dash, you follow this procedure to "reset" the brake pad wear indicator: Turn the ignition key to position 1 (ignition on) but not to the start position. Leave it in that position for at least 60 seconds. This clears the memory for this item and the light should not light again.
I hope this helps. Given that the new “Search” facility is very different, (both better and worse) I will keep this post on file and can E-Mail it to anybody who needs it.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I hear you on the "Close to Home" thing; it makes you think, doesn't it?
Regarding coping, I am fairly good at keeping myself up, that said; last night I got a little blue, worrying if I would ever be 100% again. I only have 15 days until my current cast is taken off and HOPEFULLY a walking cast being installed in its place. Gee, if I’m REALLY lucky, they might even use one of those new fangled removable jobs so I can start therapy shortly thereafter (assuming that I don’t find myself back in Taipei again, which is a real possibility). I guess only after therapy starts will we have a good indication of how bad the soft tissue damage is, and how long before I can start pushing three pedals again. I will keep y’all posted.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I'm impressed that Pierce's car suffered little damage in a rear-ender, while he (neck/shoulders/back?) did. Driving helmets next? nah...
Hang in there, your foot will heal.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I'm impressed that Pierce's car suffered little damage in a rear-ender, while he (neck/shoulders/back?) did. Driving helmets next? nah...
Hang in there, your foot will heal.
My car is a 2001 330 XI w/sport pkg and style 79 rims. Does anyone know how much it'll cost to replace? My car has 16,500 miles on it. Do you suggest replacing just the two rims on the left side or all four rims? What about tires? Should they all be replaced along w/rims? HELP!!!
I guess I'm more of a sports car kind of guy than I thought.
On another subject, does anyone out there have real world experience with SMG? I need an auto because of the amount of city style driving I do but was thinking this may be a good alternative on my next 3 as it will be soon be available. I wonder do people really use it in the "manual" mode or just keep it in one of the programs. And if in the program, is it too "lurhcy" causing one to pine for an auto that does the job smoother?
Personally, I would buy an SMG car. Partly because I hardly drive my 3er slushbox now. Due to shorter distance that I now drive to work and that my speed stays in the 30 to 35 mph zone. I am used to driving a manual everyday and don't care about the shifts on a manual. I can sometimes shift smoother with a manual than what an auto does. Sorry for the digression.
http://www.bmwwheels.com/detail.asp?ws=79&Series=E46
As for your tires, I would replace them NOW, if not sooner. I don't know how far you have to go to get home, but I would not drive over 30 MPH until I got those tires replaced. I would also put your spare on the front, as it most likely suffered the worst damage.
I am aware that there is a way to have NYC pay for damage (stuff like bent rims and cracked wind shields) to a vehicle due to road conditions (I heard about in on the radio "News Radio 88" or "1010 WINS" a few years ago, AM-880 and AM-1010 respectively), however, I cannot remember the specifics. You might want to call the City for any information.
I guess that in the final analysis, you need two new wheels and tires. Good luck, let us know how things turn out.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
Sometimes rims can be repaired like this, and other times they have to be replaced.
What kind of tires did you have? I am very impressed that with the bent rims you did not get a flat. Nevertheless, I agree with shipo that you should replace the tire (ASAP), particularly if you see a bulge in the sidewall.
http://ftg.vltmedia.se/zon/bil/filmer/m3e46.mpg
1. Torque has been bumped at the midpoint (3,500 rpms) to 222. Redline is at 6,800.
2. The top speed governor has been reset to 155 mph. <---- I though this was the really cool thing. No more excuses against the competition now.
3. The brochure I read lists the 0-60 at 5.9.
brave1heart - I was cringing while watching the video. I can't believe the *flogging* that M3 was given. But it is one heck of a machine.
Acceleration:
325 - 7
A4 - 9
Handling
325 - 8
A4 - 7
Braking
325 - 9
A4 - 2
Likely not to leave you stranded
325 - 9
A4 - 9
Sure-footedness
325 - 7
A4 - 9
Highway stability
325 - 7
A4 - 8
As you can see, they are close in all categories, except that the snow tires in the 325 braked admirably better than the all-seasons in the A4.
chaaaosss - Drivers memory, if you're the only one that drives the car, no biggie. But if you share the car, it's an option I would never want to be without again.
"tossing on snow tires had the most profound transformation of the three cars. The 330 went from pitiful observer to hockey player.... The car could be driven through the slalom--on the snowy ice, but not the glare ice--nearly as fast as its [4WD] counterparts.... It meant being able to properly stop in a straight line, and even trail brake a little.... It meant we could turn in and go around the cones, not sail past or over them, and get it pointed at the next corner."
Ultimately, winter driving is most dependent on two things. First, winter tires. Second, driver skill. If you don't try to outdrive the winter tires, you'll likely be amazed what it can do.
They did the test using Pirelli snow tires at the Team O'Neil rally driving school near Mt. Washington Valley, New Hampshire.
The problems with cars like the 325i for sale in the States is that it is difficult to buy them not loaded down with junk. e.g., European auto climate controls are hopeless at holding a set temperature (GM is fifty times better at this kind of thing) sunroofs eat into headroom so my head tilts sideways, glossy wood interior looks hopelessly out of place in a 325, etc., but it's what the market wants.
The 325i is great to drive, but not as fast or as roomy as my (very unreliable) VW GTi. And I would not have been able to get out of my neighborhood in the 325i during last week's snow storm. I think I preferred BMW's in the era of the Bavaria and the 3.0 CS -- then you knew what the company was about ; now they seem to be aimed at career thrusters who care little for cars beyone the brand's cachet, rather than real "car people".
Why are the Bimmer's sold in the US speed-governed below the capabilities of the Euro market cars? Company cynicism about the US market?
This may have been covered in one of the posts I didn't read...I also have an iPod and a 325i. I've found a few solutions, but have yet to try them.
Check out:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HgTABxKYrPf/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?a=0- - &s=0&g=42300&id=detailed_info&i=541BMWPILA
http://www.soundgate.com/products/aux-in/bmw.htm
-murray
We viewed the final launch of Columbia and followed the mission daily through NASA websites. I was very excited about one day meeting Laurel and hearing tales of her grand adventure, but that day will never come. For the last week, I've been desperately trying to "meet" this wonderful woman through news reports and emails from friends of hers.
Last night, several med school friends of Laurel and my wife met. We viewed a tape of a private memorial held in Houston, we told stories, we laughed and we cried.
I truly feel that I don't know of anyone that has affected so many people in such a positive manner. One friend called Laurel nine days before the launch of STS-107. Her concern was not about the mission, but finishing a science project for her son Iain before they left for Florida!
In the end, I got my wish of "meeting" Laurel Clark through the people that knew her best. She, as are everyone in the NASA astronaut program, is a truly remarkable person. I am very fortunate to have shared in the last few weeks of her life.
Thanks for listening
-murray
p.s. Laurel's husband begged at the memorial service that we continue to promote science and technology in our society. These seven incredible people dedicated the last few years of their lives to help improve life for all of us. Please, please do what you can to keep their work and dreams alive.
I live in Conneticut and was fortunate to have Friday off. I just received my 330i on Wednesday of last week with Dunlap Graspic ds-1 snow tires mounted. My performance tires are now stacked in the garage. I am not going to be as fortunate tomorrow when depending on who you listen to we are going to get about 4 inches of snow. I have been driving in the snow my whole life but not since high school in an '84 Monte Carlo have I faced it in rwd. It looks like the morning will be O.K. but the ride home an adventure.
My question is would you recommend putting weight in the trunk?
Or in your opinion, is it not needed?
This is for nkeen.
I owned a 2001 GTI VR6 before getting my bimmer. My pocket rocket was well crafted, and fun. However, the driving dynamics are not close! The VW was not balanced well, rattled, was unreliable and suffered from so much torque steer it absolutely jittered when pushed. The engine was literally too big for the size of the car and fwd! My wife did not feel comfortable driving it not to mention was not high on the rocket hatch looks. The 330i is civil enough for her to drive and enjoy and the purity of the behing the wheel experience is sublime! I agree ironically that for the difference in price, the VW Jetta GLI 6-speed, was my 2nd choice and if I were buying probably the way I would have gone. But for lease value the BMW is more affordable than people think and overall in a completely different galaxy than the VW. Features are not the BMW strong suit, the driving experience is!
To give an ex. I had a Mercedes clk430 which I just handed in. The vehicle was equipped with 17' michelon pilots 225/45 front 245/40 rear (like the bmw sport) My wife was caught in a snow storm (about 6 inches of snow nothing too bad) coming home from work. She got stuck on 3 different occasions in what is normally a 45 minute drive home. The 3rd time she was stuck was close to home. One of our neighbors who has a BMW X5 saw her fish tailing all over the place and offered to switch vehicles. Later that night I heard for about 2 hrs how the BMW glided through the snow like it wasn't there and how much of a lemon my clk430 was. It is not a lemon but if you were stuck on 3 different occasions coming home you might say the same thing. Needless to say that she now drives an AUDI A6 w/4 wheel drive and all season tires. The clk w/those tires in the snow is not bad, it is horrible, you can't drive it with as little as 1 inch of snow on the ground. Why..... tires,tires,tires
Last Friday, we got nailed here in the Boston area, and on the route that my wife drove home from work, she encountered several local surface streets that had yet to be plowed. Her comment was, “Your BMW was so easy to drive that I couldn’t even tell that there was snow on the roads”, this from a girl who grew up in California, and never even drove on snow until she was 36.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Truthful too. They were taking it pretty easy on the car IMO. The M3 loves to be driven sideways.
Check out a decent legal reference looking for BMW cases. You should be able to find the infamous mid-1990s case involving the paint job. US Supreme court did modify the damages but BMW still ended up with huge legal bills and costs all because one guy didn't like the paint job. He found a less-than fully bright jury (nothin' new in USA) and milked the system. We ended up paying for it.
djocks... shipo is absolutely correct. You have to keep in mind that most BMWs have near 50/50 weight distribution. Throwing weight in the trunk will add a rear bias. I don't think adding a small amount of weight will upset the balance (and will slightly improve traction), but I would not recommend adding much. I haven't added any for my wife's 323ia. Keys to winter driving are good winter tires and good driver skills. One without the other won't cut it. So drive carefully, even if you have winter tires.
- Robert Browing
An A4 Quattro with good all-season tires like the Dunlop SP5000 would have done much better too. On the other hand, there are much better snow tires than the light-duty Dunlop M2s that I've been using. Unfortunately, they would be limited to 99 mph.
No weight in the trunk!! While it may improve traction a bit, it will make the car tail-happy and a lot more likely to spin 180 degrees while cornering.
by the way, shipo why you gotta pounce on the old monte? J/K... I had some great days in old girl. Those were the days!
Best Regards,
Shipo
Also, how does the handling of the 325i with the 17" tires hold up in wet conditions? All the reviews usually consider driving in dry conditions!
I was initially concerned about getting a 325i because I drove a 2000 525i (rental) in the snow and it wasn't fairing too well. I don't recall what kind of tires the 525i had which could in part explain its poor behavior on the snow, let alone its rwd setup.
I am/(was?) looking for a replacement for the GTi due to reliability concerns (replaced 2nd gear syncro followed by complete transmission, more recently an ignition coil failure -- you might have read about this problem) and drove several cars -- 325i, Saab 9-3, Caddy CTS, Suburu WRX, Jag X-type, Honda Accord, and, yes, a Chevy Impala. The 325i is a great car, but wish it had more headroom -- I'm 6'1" but have a long torso and found that my head tended to hit the grab handle above the driver's door as I leaned left. The 9-3 is good -- not as involving as the Bimmer, but I have concerns about the long term viability of the division given its losses. The X-type: my head was on the roof -- no sunroof and they could move the side glass out 2 inches without widening the car. The Accord, competent and immaculately executed left me uninvolved and unmoved. The Impala is very roomy with a great torquey OHV engine, the best auto trans you can buy, and decent handling -- great value in it's American Gothic way, immensely strong, and without doubt under-rated.
I don't agree that the 325i is in a different league from the VW --- at least not in terms of driver involvement and overall quality of execution. The quality of the interiors is similar, and, oh to get decent cloth seats! VW has the better stereo. For certain, the VW, with it's vertical side glass, feels much roomier in front. And yes, it rattles. I think that perhaps the 1.8T is a better match than the VR6, though -- and I love that quiet whoosh from the blower as the torque piles in. There is a lot to be said for fwd -- remember those Minis in the 60's that won the Monte, leaving everything else behind? I have had the GTi to 110 on the interstate -- rock solid and in its element and with plenty more to come, which I would expect from the BMW also. And it plows through the snow without complaint on its standard tires, and is easy to catch in a slide.
But the bottom line: the BMW was not more satisfying than the Volks, and a little slower also. The VW is slightly rabid but (unlike the Scooby WRX) refined, and chuckable. I'm still considering, but as you can tell, despite its misbehavior, its an emotional thing with the VW.
I am 6 feet and find the 330i very comfortable. I know I sound like a broken record but the sport seats are out of this world. If you are going to mourn the loss of the GTI then roll with it longer. They have a cult following and I sold mine at asking price privately 2 weeks after running the add. You can always sell it! After I sold my GTI I was driving a '92 Audi 100cs. I must say I missed my GTI everyday until recently when I finally got my BMW.
The GTI still has a special place in my heart, but after driving my 330i (now in snow with absolutely no problems, thanks shapiro/brave1heart/riez) I believe all the hype. I have never driven anything like the 330i!
You did yours and ended up with your dream car. Keeps us posted.
PS. Mine with the conti tires is awful in deep snow. I said this year gonna ride it out, next year snows.
IMO when a car tires to do everything well ie: drive sporty, luxuruiosly, goes through snow etc. it winds up doing nothing truly great. It can't be all things to all people because it then winds up being nothing to anyone, if that makes any sense. (See Lexus, boring cars) IMO the 3er is a great Sports Car which does other things competently. That's why I love it. I wanted a sports car.