"It has nothing to do with what the car can do but what it represents to them. They buy the 325i because it gets them a BMW - the brand"
It doesn't get them the brand, it gets them what the brand represents. See my post above. When people buy the brand BMW, they are not buying a BMW they are buying a vehicle that represents the embodiement of what the BMW is brand is. While you may quibble with the engine choices, it still represents a choice for car enthusiasts among other choices.
While it is certainly true some people like to flaunt objects, I can't see a difference between a person who buys a 325 because it's a BMW, no more than a person who buys a Q45 just because it's an Infiniti.
While it is certainly true some people like to flaunt objects, I can't see a difference between a person who buys a 325 because it's a BMW, no more than a person who buys a Q45 just because it's an Infiniti.
Agreed. Though I've never met a person flossin' in anything like an Infiniti or Acura. BMW/MB/Lexus seem to get the people who want to get noticed. As Lexus' entry level lux isn't really viewed as anything more than a kid's car, few people roll in that with an eye toward flaunting (the GS on the other hand...). The MB gets its fair share but the C class tends to skew older. In so cal the 3 series (especially the 325i) is as common as peroxide blondes with bad implants and sitcoms co-starring precocious kids. It's the car many, many 20-40 year olds here aspire to own for no other reason than what it represents. Not what the car can do. Poseurs. Emblem chasers.
Yes my perception is clouded by where I live, my associates/friends/family, and my daily 90 mile roundtrip.
"Agreed. Though I've never met a person flossin' in anything like an Infiniti or Acura."
I know a few of them. Just to say I have a car that's almost $50,000 or over is a statement. But the conversation about the reasons *why* people buy certain brands is a bit stale, and I can't understand why this conversation has any bearing on whether someone should buy a BMW and what model they should get.
Whether they buy them because they like to flaunt 'em or buy them because they like to flog 'em, it does not change the performance characteristics or change BMWs reputation in this regard. The 325 is no more a poseurs car than an SRT4. Both serve a market and both have customers.
well BMW needs all the people who buy the 3ers (and other models) cars just for the roundel on the hood & the trunk, they need the people who buy the cars because they are pretty or handsome, they need the show offs, the lawyers, the bankers, the doctors, the business executives... who buy (or lease) the run of the mill CWP (here in the NorthEast)PP/Step/Leather/Metallic Paint 325is (plural) & 330is (plural). These cars serve as a foundation for BMWs wonderful profit margin (second highest in the auto industry). It is with this large profit margins that BMW uses to develop the cars that us enthusiasts lust over like the M3, M5, ZHP 330i, 545i6 (well lust on the E60 is debatable), Z4, and even 3er coupes to a degree.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Ya, the Z4 is a wonder car. They are still having problems selling the 03s at $5800 off MSRP in my area and there are lots of cars left. That is some pretty serious depreciation or and example of how much profit margin BMW has to work with.
Well I didn't mean to start a flame war, but except for a few comments, no one has really given a good explanation for BMW charging as much as they do for a 330i. Is it because there is no justification?
On the other hand, I'm hesitant to even drive a 330i, because I'm afraid to get a taste of something I know I can't have. In the back of my mind I will always wonder if I'm really missing out on a considerable performance difference and the exhilerating driving experience a BMW is supposed to bring.
I totally agree that there is nothing like being in love with your car. I can't wait to get back in my Prelude tomorrow morning:)-
I've lusted after a 3er for a while too. Probably since '97 when I drove my friend's E36 325is (5 speed, SP). From that night forward I knew I had to have a BMW (I still don't, but that's OK).
I'd love to get my hands on a '99 E36 M3 one of these days. Very handsome & understated styling, crisp handling, well balanced, and fast. I like the fact that '99 was the last year of the E36 M3, but the technology of the car is proven early-mid 90's. I saw a great Cosmos Black/Black 5-speed 32K mile CPO car on a dealer's website listing for $26K.
I love the E46 M3 too. Maybe in a few years I'll look pick up the last year of the I6 powered E46 M3 (rumors of a V8 are inevitable for the next gen M3).
Speaking of badge hounds, many people pick up an M3 to essentially wear it because it was/is a hot car in high demand. They don't realize it may be too tempermental or punishing for daily driving and trade them in after 6 months, take a residual bath, and buy an X5, 330i, or a 5er. So there will be some low mileage, non abused, non-tracked M3s.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
nyccarguy--I agree and this unnerves me to no end. Rich women or boys with rich dads who buy them the car b/c it's hot. How lame and how pretentious is that?!
How about us car nuts who drive b/c of the sheer pleasure and b/c we actually know what the car can do? Throw us a bone! If you want a boulevardier to make people look (or gawk), then go get yourself a Lexus SC430! I'd take my M3 (if I had one) to the track and slap the snot out of it. BMWs are made to be driven and driven hard. Every time I take my 325Ci out, it feels like it's begging to be driven.
Someday, I hope to get my grubby mitts on an E39 M5!
If I were in the market for a 3er and was making a choice between a 325 that I could well afford and a 330 that I would have to make somewhat of a stretch, personally I'd choose the 330 (make mine a ZHP). I'm sure the 3 Liter's power is intoxicating, the balance & handling would blow me away, and I happen to think the wheels are nicer. I'm sure I could make it work between possibly doing a good ED deal, my BMWCCA discount, and whatever money I rack up from my Citi Driver's Edge Card.
There are some very valid arguments for buying the 325:
It is a less expensive car (blueguy you got a great deal with your MSDs & lease on your 330i ZHP).
I'm sure the acceleration would be on par if not stronger than my Prelude's. The top speed is limited to 128mph on both cars (ZHP excluded). The speed limit on highways within the 5 boroughs of NYC (and in many suburbs due to dense population) is 50 mph. I'd probably drive the 330 a lot faster.
But only test drives and time will tell. "That's why they play the games."
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Back in 1991 I was helping judge a CCA chapter's fall concours. One couple had brought their immaculate E28 M5. I asked them how it handled on the track, and they looked at me like I'd asked them if they let goats mate in the back seat. Pathetic. When I eventually nab a 2002tii Turbo and an M1 I can assure you that they will see a few different road circuits as well. BMWs are DRIVERS cars, and it galls me to see one being driven in blue-hair-Buick Geritol mode...
sckling - there are those who say no, there are those who say yes and there are those who say it depends on whether it's a manual or step. Having driven both 325 and 330 step the answer is yes. Noticeably. People say there is less of a difference with the manual.
But while the '02 330is have a red check mark in reliability according to CR, the '01s do not.
I personally would go for the '01 but I would do my homework first.
Having just bought a CPO 330i, I can tell you I thought the premium was worthwhile vs the 325i's I drove. For me, the reason the premium was worthwhile was that I was upgrading from a '98 Contour SVT, and to me, the performance and "seat of your pants" feel of the 325's I drove weren't all that dissimilar from my SVT. The extra thrust, smoothness, and engine-tranny harmony of the 330i felt a very clear step above the car I was replacing. And I could afford the difference.
Now, my preference in no way at all implies the 325 is a "bad car." I loved the ones I drove, and would recommend them in a heartbeat to anyone who asks. They are a *great value* and have enough performance for almost anyone. I, and obviously many others, are just willing to pay for an upgrade. It's the same as my Contour SVT was in '98, being worth every cent of the $3,500 premium over the Contour SE. As someone else said, it's all about what the free market will support.
Now, it sounds like in some other forums, BMW may be hitting up against that support with the new 5's right now, with people openly questioning the steep prices on the new V8 5-series models. That's how it all works. The companies test the market, the market corrects the companies. Look at the new Thunderbird... It was selling for thousands above list when it came out and now Ford has to d/c it since the sales are so slow. You've got to love capitalism!
to have the IHKA reprogram service bulletin performed on my 04 330Ci. Less than an hour and no appointment... pretty good. While I waited, I browsed the lot. Three 2004 ZHP's; silver gray, jet black and red. All completely loaded to the gills (~$45,000) and all steptronics (!).
Yeah the switch to a step zhp was inevitable as way too many people now think sports sedan and gimmicky automanual go together. You know BMW caught all sorts of emails and moans from drivers who wanted the zhp upgrades but couldn't fathom driving a stick in a performance package.
I drive 90 miles a day in traffic. 90 miles. Both my cars are manuals. So don't use the old "but there's so much traffic" excuse.
BMW charges 7k more for the 330. Whether it is justifiable or not is absolutely a personal matter and you won't find a unanimous decision on this. 330 owners find the extra oomph worth every extra dollar they pay and 325 owners think it is a waste of money. The 325 stick is as fast as the 330 step on paper and it feel pretty zippy. The biggest difference in the 3.0 vs the 2.5 litre is the low end torque. At the higher end the difference is not much and both the engines perform exceptionally. The 325 auto might feel a bit sluggish with a full load getting off the blocks. But again, even with a 330 you won't beat a Mustang GT or a Subaru WRX at the light. Both the 325 and 330 perform so much better in other areas that drag racing will be the last thing you would worry about. The way the engine revs up, the precise steering, sharp cornering and the whole driving experience is exhilarating.
NYC, I read the ZHP review in Roundel. They mentioned that it hit 123 mph on back straight at Watkins Glen. I hit 115 mph in the same section with my 325i. Not too shabby for a car that's 10 grand cheaper. I suspect that the actual power that the 325 delivers is higher than the 184 stated by the manufacturer. According to this graph on Turner's website
The 325 engine makes ~ 170 HP at the wheel, which is well over 190 at the crank. At any rate, the difference in HP at the wheel between the 325 and the 330 is closer to 25 ponies.
FWIW, I drove both the 325 and the 300 before I bought the 325 and I didn't think the 330 was worth the significant premium that BMWNA charges for it.
Manual vs. auto - the creep they dial in autos drives me nuts esp. in traffic. It is not natural for a car to creep forward on a perfectly flat road. And I am not even going to begin to mention fun to drive, control over the car, acceleration, fuel economy, etc...
Can anyone tell me what the standard cloth/alcantara seats are like with the 330i performance package? I've tested the 330i with and without the performance package and the extra $4k seems well worth it. However, I can't find a model in stock with these seats and while I'd prefer not to spend the extra $$ on a leather upgrade, I also don't want cheap looking or feeling seats.
>>On the other hand, I'm hesitant to even drive a 330i
You've answered your question.
In retrospect, the choice should be between a loaded 325i and a stripped 330i. Having purchased the former, I realize that BMW's manual air conditioning, regular wipers, leatherette and no sunroof would have been just fine.
325i comes with auto climate control, just like 330i. And 330 doesn't come standard with moonroof or leather. To get a 325 to 330 equipment level, you would have to add: HK stereo, power seats, computer and rain-sensing wipers; about $2,300. If you want the chrome moldings, 6th gear or 3.0 engine, you'll have to pay for a 330i. True, the 325i with manual is as quick as a 330i with step, just don't drive a 330i with 6-speed; it'll shove you back in the seat nicely! With comparable equipment levels, price premium is closer to $4,000. But, equipped the way I would buy, the 325i is $6,500 cheaper ($36,695 vs $30,195)!
Thanks guys for your responses. I'm glad I got some input.
Last night I went and test drove a '03 325Ci manual. Whichever Bimmer I get (if even a Bimmer), will be a manual transmission. Anyway, I was actually fairly impressed with its acceleration - it was better than I thought it would be. But the engine's lower end torque was definitely noticeable accelerating onto the freeway onramp, which was uphill. I definitely wanted more. On the other hand, it wasn't a fair comparison because I had just finished up test driving a 350Z. Talk about intoxicating power! But the Bimmer overall was much more refined than the 350Z, and I could picture myself driving the 325Ci as a daily commuter car more than the 350Z.
"But the engine's lower end torque was definitely noticeable accelerating onto the freeway onramp, which was uphill. I definitely wanted more."
==> I would too if I were trying to do that using low end torque. You have to be in a lower gear to get the most power out of the car. The 325's engine doesn't really open up till over 3K RPMs.
"The 325's engine doesn't really open up till over 3K RPMs"
I think 3k is the sweet spot. But try to get it around 4500 and it feels as if it got a shot of steroids. Bottom line is that due to the lack of low end torque engine needs to be revved up harder.
My 4cyl '01 Prelude produces 156lb-ft of torque at 5250 rpm. Uphills, on ramps, and passing are no problem. Just dial up what gear you want and away you go. I can leisurly cruise past someone at 60 in 5th gear, drop down to 4th for a quicker burst, and for even more fun, drop from 5th to 3rd and rocket from 60 to 80 before I hit the 7500 rpm redline. It is part of the fun of driving a stick. I'm sure the same holds true for a 325i.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
And don't forget that it may not get up to speed as fast as the 3.0 Liter counterpart, but you can still cruise along the highway at speeds well above the posted limit (85mph-95mph no problem).
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Brief excerpt from the Feb. 2004 issue of Bimmer, in an interview with Tom Purves CEO of BMW NA.
Bimmer: Don't you think you might lost exclusivity if you were to sell half a million? [BMWs...sic]
Purves: It depends on your definition of exclusivity. Nobeody else can offer the experience that BMW can offer, therefore the BMW experience is exclusive. That fact that a quarter of a million.....people share in it still means that it is exclusive. ----------------------
Notice he doesn't say BMW is prestigious. Validates my thoughts on the car, that people buy the car for reputation BMW has earned hard to craft.
My retrofit rack never felt right. I finally go it replaced with the Post-May 2001 rack, which is quicker at 2.8 turns to lock. It is a nice medium between the light rack and the heavy retrofit.
I'm wondering if this is any deofferent from the 2003-3004 rack.. I drove a 2003 recently, and whilke the weight of the stering seemed about the same, the turn-in seemed quicker.
I'm wondering how to maximize turn-in response. Different tires? I'm running Kunho Ecstas. I can't believe the Conti's on the 2003 I tested are better. Are Pilots?
Well it's a strange old game - you learn it slow One step forward and it's back to go You're standing on the throttle You're standing on the breaks In the groove 'til you make a mistake
Sometimes you're the windshield Sometimes you're the bug Sometimes it all comes together baby Sometimes you're a fool in love Sometimes you're the Louisville slugger Sometimes you're the ball Sometimes it all comes together baby Sometimes you're going to lose it all
You gotta know happy - you gotta know glad Because you're gonna know lonely And you're gonna know bad When you're rippin' and a ridin' And you're coming on strong You start slippin' and slidin' And it all goes wrong because
Sometimes you're the windshield Sometimes you're the bug Sometimes it all comes together baby Sometimes you're a fool in love Sometimes you're the Louisville slugger baby Sometimes you're the ball Sometimes it all comes together baby Sometimes you're going to lose it all
One day you got the glory One day you got none One day you're a diamond And then you're a stone Everything can change In the blink of an eye So let the good times roll Before we say goodbye, because
I have a manual '03 325i. This is my first winter with the car. I live in NYC and got stuck in Westchester(the burbs) during the snowstorm over the weekend. My 325 could barely make it up a modest hill and the traction-control and other gadgets kicked-in but didn't generate enough torgue to get me up a hill(I ended up leaving the car and taking a train back to the city). I read some of the threads and the consensus for snow tires(Blizzaks) for a RWD-bimmer during the northeast winters is the norm. In the interest of being "cheap", does anyone have experience using chains? If so, could you recommend a good set? Tks!
Have you ever used chains? They are a real pain to put on and off -- I remember my Dad struggling with them years ago when that was the only option. And if the attachment comes loose at all, the end of the chain whipping around can really do a number on your nice Bimmer! You can't leave them on in the dry, can't drive very fast on them, and may have to put them on if you're caught out somewhere when it starts to snow.
I don't have my 325 yet, but I'm already looking at options for next winter. Tire Rack has a nice-looking deal for a set of Blizzaks on low-end but not bad aluminum wheels for just about $1000. Considering that 3 months of usage of the snow tires is 3 months wear saved on my regular tires, it is not all that expensive a proposition (especially since I won't have to pay mounting/balancing expenses twice a year).
before you go ahead and use chains, in addition to the pains and trouble that gordon has talked about, i'd advise you get a heftier insurance, because death due to various reasons, including frostbite and run overs is more common according to industry statistics... also get health insurance if you are allergic to excessive vibrations, and finally based on the build quality issues enumerated by many 3 owners, make sure you are prepared to live with a car that's not going to drive as good as the original past a winter of woooobbbly ride that shakes, rattles and loosens the beast up.
ksso Sometimes you are the windshield Sometimes you are the bug.
Last year I made the mistake of thinking that I could go the winter with my Continental Contisport Contacts shod on my 325Ci. Slight miscalculation. I got stuck on a pathetic 5 degree grade in two inches of snow at the local McDonald's drive-thru. Embarrassing to say the least. A few guys walked past me as I spun my tires. I wondered why they didn't help, and I imagined them saying, "Let the yuppie scum in the Bimmer rot!" Roadside Assistance was backed up for two hours, to boot. Eventually, a benevolent soul helped me out. I never did get my Egg McMuffin.
The next day, I ordered 4 Dunlop Wintersport M2s. They have been amazing. Great feel, adhesion and great dry and wet traction, in addition to the snow handling. They are very reasonable at tirerack.com. I had them mounted and balanced on my Style 44 SP rims and bought a new set of 18" M-Parallels and Kumho Ecsta MXs in the spring. Now I have two sets of wheels/tires and will not need to mount/balance every year.
i just got dunlop wintersport m2's from the tirerack. set of 4 $552 plus shipping $62 total $614. great tires unbelievable snow traction, quite ride, very nice handling. the $552 price includes 4 new steel wheels which makes snow tire change over easy and cheaper in the long run. the steel wheels aren't very pretty but its better than collision damage on my new 03 325. the tirerack rep told me the dunlops are give better performance than the blizzaks and last longer to. can't say enough about the tirerack.
Hey is it true that awd diminishes the performance of a car on dry road. the infinity g-35 commercial claims that other brands of awd diminish performance. Any opinions. I guess what I am asking is why would someone not get awd if it is only 1700 option, the price of leather.
Does your 325Ci happen to be equipped with the Sport Package? If so, your car has Z rated performance tires which are engineered to optimize performance (Like when you take the off ramp from the Cross Bronx onto the Westside Highway Southbound at ridiculous speeds). The downside to these tires is that their soft rubber compound (among other things) renders them virtually useless in our winter weather. They don't even give decent grip when the temp gets cold out and the roads are dry. It isn't the BMW that's your problem, it is your tires. My buddy has an A4 3.0 with Quattro & a 6 speed w/ Sport Package. He spins 4 tires at once instead of you spinning 2 in your BMW.
Invest in a good set of winter wheels & tires. It may cost you a little now, but think of how much it will save you in the long run. Your regular tires will last you longer (because you'll be putting mileage on your winter tires). You'll be safer (a good set of winter tires helps you accelerate, brake, corner as opposed to 4WD which helps you start but just adds weight which is the enemy of cornering and braking). You may save yourself from blowouts, bent rims, and suspension damage associated with the gaping pot-holes that seemed to have developed extra early this year if you decide to go with 16" winter wheels & tires with a higher sidewall (A rim for my Prelude which cracked last year from a pot-hole cost $345, I'd hate to think what those gorgeous BMW stock wheels cost to replace).
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
NYC - those rims cost about the same as the E46 SP's.
Summer tires in the cold: I've driven with 3 types of summer tires in my 325i SP: ContiSport Contact, Sumitomo HTR Z II and Yokohama ES100. While all of them exhibit some loss of grip in low temps, none of that loss was noticeable in normal street driving in subfreezing temps as long as there is no snow and ice on the road.
While I love the Dunlop M2 snow tires in my car and would recommend snow tires for anyone that drives in snow/ice, all-season tires should be OK with RWD. Not recommending that anyone do that but I did drive long commutes with summer tires that mild winter we had 2 years ago and I never got stuck. It just takes a lot of concentration and planning on the road because of the vastly diminished grip...
I don't know where you guys are getting these M2 prices. The 205/55/16 were only $92 on the Tirerack a week ago. That would be $368 for a set of 4 tires + shipping should still be $400 or less. Well worth the money!
I agree with the posts recommending snow tires. However, in certain instances, chains are necessary. We live in California and drive a 325Xi. If the snow is very heavy, CalTrans will not let any 4x4 or AWD through unless they have chains. It doesn't sound like this is your situation, however.
Please, just take this as one man's humble opinion. I had my first real test of the new Michelin Pilot Sport All Season tires I had put on my car this past August. Up til now, the tires have performed very well on dry and wet (read: rainy) conditions. I went to St. Louis this past weekend, and, although they didn't get quite the snow pummeling that the NE US received, I happened to be driving in on a day that St. Louis ended up getting four inches of snow. And, my tires performed fantastically (is that even a word? LOL). Except for the occasional slippage (which is bound to happen in four inches of snow, even with snow tires), I had all the grip I coud need. I was able to get up hills, and brake safely down hills. They cut through the muck on the highways (you know the kind of muck I am talking about....gray/black snow pulverized and macerated by all of the cars driving through it),and held the car on curves and corners. Yes, there is a little more road noise versus the OEM Conti's, but, not so much that you can't tune the noise out. I highly recommend these as an alternative to the summer/winter combinations that area also highly recommended here, especially for people who have very limited time off. Okay, so I may be a bit on the lazy side, but, since I travel almost all of the time, and I use my car just as much, the convenience of all-season tires was well worth it for me. FWIW, I had the OEM Conti's (which I also loved) and Michelin Alpin Sports (which I sold to me dentist), and they worked awfully well, but, I didn't like the inconvenience of having to swap the tires/wheels (so it was only twice a year, but, I need every precious moment of my weekends when I am not traveling, versus having to wait at the tire shop to have them do the swap). Again, just my humble opinion.
I just bought a 2003 325i.. steptronic.. sport package.. I pick it up Saturday.. It has 8000 miles on OEM Bridgestones.. Its going to be my wife's car. I live in the Cincinnati area. (moderate snow..lots of hills). Am I going to be able to make through this winter, considering tires are fairly new? Or am I kidding myself? Any and all opinions welcome.
Kyfdx - Get some winter tires for those non-baseball months. You will have better traction year round and something to look forward to each Spring! $500-$1k @ Tire Rack. Get them mounted and balanced so that you can pop them on yourself or at the local garage, vice remounting them every Spring and Fall.
Comments
It doesn't get them the brand, it gets them what the brand represents. See my post above. When people buy the brand BMW, they are not buying a BMW they are buying a vehicle that represents the embodiement of what the BMW is brand is. While you may quibble with the engine choices, it still represents a choice for car enthusiasts among other choices.
While it is certainly true some people like to flaunt objects, I can't see a difference between a person who buys a 325 because it's a BMW, no more than a person who buys a Q45 just because it's an Infiniti.
Agreed. Though I've never met a person flossin' in anything like an Infiniti or Acura. BMW/MB/Lexus seem to get the people who want to get noticed. As Lexus' entry level lux isn't really viewed as anything more than a kid's car, few people roll in that with an eye toward flaunting (the GS on the other hand...). The MB gets its fair share but the C class tends to skew older. In so cal the 3 series (especially the 325i) is as common as peroxide blondes with bad implants and sitcoms co-starring precocious kids. It's the car many, many 20-40 year olds here aspire to own for no other reason than what it represents. Not what the car can do. Poseurs. Emblem chasers.
Yes my perception is clouded by where I live, my associates/friends/family, and my daily 90 mile roundtrip.
I know a few of them. Just to say I have a car that's almost $50,000 or over is a statement. But the conversation about the reasons *why* people buy certain brands is a bit stale, and I can't understand why this conversation has any bearing on whether someone should buy a BMW and what model they should get.
Whether they buy them because they like to flaunt 'em or buy them because they like to flog 'em, it does not change the performance characteristics or change BMWs reputation in this regard. The 325 is no more a poseurs car than an SRT4. Both serve a market and both have customers.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
A friend told me there's nothing quite like being in love with a car. I laughed at that 540 driving nut. Now I nod when he says it.
A friend told me there's nothing quite like being in love with a car. I laughed at that 540 driving nut. Now I nod when he says it."
Boy, do I agree with that. Great post.
On the other hand, I'm hesitant to even drive a 330i, because I'm afraid to get a taste of something I know I can't have. In the back of my mind I will always wonder if I'm really missing out on a considerable performance difference and the exhilerating driving experience a BMW is supposed to bring.
I've lusted after a 3er for a while too. Probably since '97 when I drove my friend's E36 325is (5 speed, SP). From that night forward I knew I had to have a BMW (I still don't, but that's OK).
I'd love to get my hands on a '99 E36 M3 one of these days. Very handsome & understated styling, crisp handling, well balanced, and fast. I like the fact that '99 was the last year of the E36 M3, but the technology of the car is proven early-mid 90's. I saw a great Cosmos Black/Black 5-speed 32K mile CPO car on a dealer's website listing for $26K.
I love the E46 M3 too. Maybe in a few years I'll look pick up the last year of the I6 powered E46 M3 (rumors of a V8 are inevitable for the next gen M3).
Speaking of badge hounds, many people pick up an M3 to essentially wear it because it was/is a hot car in high demand. They don't realize it may be too tempermental or punishing for daily driving and trade them in after 6 months, take a residual bath, and buy an X5, 330i, or a 5er. So there will be some low mileage, non abused, non-tracked M3s.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
How about us car nuts who drive b/c of the sheer pleasure and b/c we actually know what the car can do? Throw us a bone! If you want a boulevardier to make people look (or gawk), then go get yourself a Lexus SC430! I'd take my M3 (if I had one) to the track and slap the snot out of it. BMWs are made to be driven and driven hard. Every time I take my 325Ci out, it feels like it's begging to be driven.
Someday, I hope to get my grubby mitts on an E39 M5!
There are some very valid arguments for buying the 325:
It is a less expensive car (blueguy you got a great deal with your MSDs & lease on your 330i ZHP).
I'm sure the acceleration would be on par if not stronger than my Prelude's. The top speed is limited to 128mph on both cars (ZHP excluded). The speed limit on highways within the 5 boroughs of NYC (and in many suburbs due to dense population) is 50 mph. I'd probably drive the 330 a lot faster.
But only test drives and time will tell. "That's why they play the games."
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Did anybody read the great write up on the 330i ZHP in Roundel this month? In depth coverage as usual. The writer came away very impressed.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I came across with two 3'ers:
99 328i Sports/Premium, Blk/Tan, 28k miles, $20k
01 330i Sports/Premium, Silver/Grey, 35k miles, $25k
What's you guys opinions? Is the extra 30hp on 330i really make a different? Thanks for the advice.
But while the '02 330is have a red check mark in reliability according to CR, the '01s do not.
I personally would go for the '01 but I would do my homework first.
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Now, my preference in no way at all implies the 325 is a "bad car." I loved the ones I drove, and would recommend them in a heartbeat to anyone who asks. They are a *great value* and have enough performance for almost anyone. I, and obviously many others, are just willing to pay for an upgrade. It's the same as my Contour SVT was in '98, being worth every cent of the $3,500 premium over the Contour SE. As someone else said, it's all about what the free market will support.
Now, it sounds like in some other forums, BMW may be hitting up against that support with the new 5's right now, with people openly questioning the steep prices on the new V8 5-series models. That's how it all works. The companies test the market, the market corrects the companies. Look at the new Thunderbird... It was selling for thousands above list when it came out and now Ford has to d/c it since the sales are so slow. You've got to love capitalism!
Bret
I drive 90 miles a day in traffic. 90 miles. Both my cars are manuals. So don't use the old "but there's so much traffic" excuse.
To each their own. I drive about 40 miles a day. On the trip in, the last mile before the highway can take an hour at times. No more manuals for me.
KarenS "BMW 3-Series Owners: FAQ" Jun 1, 2001 12:46pm
NYC, I read the ZHP review in Roundel. They mentioned that it hit 123 mph on back straight at Watkins Glen. I hit 115 mph in the same section with my 325i. Not too shabby for a car that's 10 grand cheaper. I suspect that the actual power that the 325 delivers is higher than the 184 stated by the manufacturer. According to this graph on Turner's website
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/show_category.asp?txtsearchParamCat=Engine%20Chips#OBDIISoftware:1996-2003Cars
and also this one from ECIS,
http://www.ecisbmw.com/dyno_res.htm
The 325 engine makes ~ 170 HP at the wheel, which is well over 190 at the crank. At any rate, the difference in HP at the wheel between the 325 and the 330 is closer to 25 ponies.
FWIW, I drove both the 325 and the 300 before I bought the 325 and I didn't think the 330 was worth the significant premium that BMWNA charges for it.
Manual vs. auto - the creep they dial in autos drives me nuts esp. in traffic. It is not natural for a car to creep forward on a perfectly flat road. And I am not even going to begin to mention fun to drive, control over the car, acceleration, fuel economy, etc...
You've answered your question.
In retrospect, the choice should be between a loaded 325i and a stripped 330i. Having purchased the former, I realize that BMW's manual air conditioning, regular wipers, leatherette and no sunroof would have been just fine.
Last night I went and test drove a '03 325Ci manual. Whichever Bimmer I get (if even a Bimmer), will be a manual transmission. Anyway, I was actually fairly impressed with its acceleration - it was better than I thought it would be. But the engine's lower end torque was definitely noticeable accelerating onto the freeway onramp, which was uphill. I definitely wanted more. On the other hand, it wasn't a fair comparison because I had just finished up test driving a 350Z. Talk about intoxicating power! But the Bimmer overall was much more refined than the 350Z, and I could picture myself driving the 325Ci as a daily commuter car more than the 350Z.
==> I would too if I were trying to do that using low end torque. You have to be in a lower gear to get the most power out of the car. The 325's engine doesn't really open up till over 3K RPMs.
I think 3k is the sweet spot. But try to get it around 4500 and it feels as if it got a shot of steroids. Bottom line is that due to the lack of low end torque engine needs to be revved up harder.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Bimmer: Don't you think you might lost exclusivity if you were to sell half a million? [BMWs...sic]
Purves: It depends on your definition of exclusivity. Nobeody else can offer the experience that BMW can offer, therefore the BMW experience is exclusive. That fact that a quarter of a million.....people share in it still means that it is exclusive.
----------------------
Notice he doesn't say BMW is prestigious. Validates my thoughts on the car, that people buy the car for reputation BMW has earned hard to craft.
I'm wondering if this is any deofferent from the 2003-3004 rack.. I drove a 2003 recently, and whilke the weight of the stering seemed about the same, the turn-in seemed quicker.
I'm wondering how to maximize turn-in response. Different tires? I'm running Kunho Ecstas. I can't believe the Conti's on the 2003 I tested are better. Are Pilots?
Well it's a strange old game - you learn it slow
One step forward and it's back to go
You're standing on the throttle
You're standing on the breaks
In the groove 'til you make a mistake
Sometimes you're the windshield
Sometimes you're the bug
Sometimes it all comes together baby
Sometimes you're a fool in love
Sometimes you're the Louisville slugger
Sometimes you're the ball
Sometimes it all comes together baby
Sometimes you're going to lose it all
You gotta know happy - you gotta know glad
Because you're gonna know lonely
And you're gonna know bad
When you're rippin' and a ridin'
And you're coming on strong
You start slippin' and slidin'
And it all goes wrong because
Sometimes you're the windshield
Sometimes you're the bug
Sometimes it all comes together baby
Sometimes you're a fool in love
Sometimes you're the Louisville slugger baby
Sometimes you're the ball
Sometimes it all comes together baby
Sometimes you're going to lose it all
One day you got the glory
One day you got none
One day you're a diamond
And then you're a stone
Everything can change
In the blink of an eye
So let the good times roll
Before we say goodbye, because
I have a manual '03 325i. This is my first winter with the car. I live in NYC and got stuck in Westchester(the burbs) during the snowstorm over the weekend. My 325 could barely make it up a modest hill and the traction-control and other gadgets kicked-in but didn't generate enough torgue to get me up a hill(I ended up leaving the car and taking a train back to the city). I read some of the threads and the consensus for snow tires(Blizzaks) for a RWD-bimmer during the northeast winters is the norm. In the interest of being "cheap", does anyone have experience using chains? If so, could you recommend a good set? Tks!
I don't have my 325 yet, but I'm already looking at options for next winter. Tire Rack has a nice-looking deal for a set of Blizzaks on low-end but not bad aluminum wheels for just about $1000. Considering that 3 months of usage of the snow tires is 3 months wear saved on my regular tires, it is not all that expensive a proposition (especially since I won't have to pay mounting/balancing expenses twice a year).
ksso
Sometimes you are the windshield
Sometimes you are the bug.
The next day, I ordered 4 Dunlop Wintersport M2s. They have been amazing. Great feel, adhesion and great dry and wet traction, in addition to the snow handling. They are very reasonable at tirerack.com. I had them mounted and balanced on my Style 44 SP rims and bought a new set of 18" M-Parallels and Kumho Ecsta MXs in the spring. Now I have two sets of wheels/tires and will not need to mount/balance every year.
PS, Traction control keeps you from spinning but does not help you get up a hill. You have to kill the DSC to get up a hill.
Invest in a good set of winter wheels & tires. It may cost you a little now, but think of how much it will save you in the long run. Your regular tires will last you longer (because you'll be putting mileage on your winter tires). You'll be safer (a good set of winter tires helps you accelerate, brake, corner as opposed to 4WD which helps you start but just adds weight which is the enemy of cornering and braking). You may save yourself from blowouts, bent rims, and suspension damage associated with the gaping pot-holes that seemed to have developed extra early this year if you decide to go with 16" winter wheels & tires with a higher sidewall (A rim for my Prelude which cracked last year from a pot-hole cost $345, I'd hate to think what those gorgeous BMW stock wheels cost to replace).
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Summer tires in the cold: I've driven with 3 types of summer tires in my 325i SP: ContiSport Contact, Sumitomo HTR Z II and Yokohama ES100. While all of them exhibit some loss of grip in low temps, none of that loss was noticeable in normal street driving in subfreezing temps as long as there is no snow and ice on the road.
While I love the Dunlop M2 snow tires in my car and would recommend snow tires for anyone that drives in snow/ice, all-season tires should be OK with RWD. Not recommending that anyone do that but I did drive long commutes with summer tires that mild winter we had 2 years ago and I never got stuck. It just takes a lot of concentration and planning on the road because of the vastly diminished grip...
I don't know where you guys are getting these M2 prices. The 205/55/16 were only $92 on the Tirerack a week ago. That would be $368 for a set of 4 tires + shipping should still be $400 or less. Well worth the money!
lol, just kidding
ksso
regards,
kyfdx
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