By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
First of all, thanks for all the posts here to help me decide and bargain. I just put down deposit for this van at $34282+TTL. The dealer also charges $45 doc fee on top of that. The price includes $525 TDA fee. The dealer insists this is part of their invoice which is not included in Edmunds's invoice. Is this correct? The price also includes some minor accessories that I want. Overall, I think this is about $500 over dealer invoice (If the TDA is really part of it). How did I do?
I haven't seen many post from the bay area so I thought this info might help guys around here.
BTW, the dealer told me now is the good time to buy AWD because the winter season peak demand for it is gone. The dealers are trying hard to get rid of them before spring time.
Happy car shopping!
Oddly enough....about 3 months ago ( as you can see by my many posts over the last 4 months ), I too was looking for the 2005 Sienna XLE AWD with Package 10 ( which I think is the GL package ) except that I wanted running boards ( for my mother-in-law ) and a Rear Spoiler ( just so that I can think that I at least look somewhat cool driving a Minivan ).
The best OTD quote ( that includes Tax and Doc fee and everything else ) that I received was from Concord Toyota for was $38,403.
Based off of my calculations...I think I was over invoice price but about ( I think ) $3200 off of MSRP and $2300 off of TMV. I had to make guesses on how much the Rear Spoiler and Running Boards were based off of the Toyota Websites.
Did you get your OTD final cost on your vehicle?
I dealt with several dealers over email ( some bad, some good ) until finally settling with one particular dealer. Just out of curiousity....which dealer did you go with?
BTW...don't forget....do a search on Extended Warranties in this discussion board....you can get the Platinum Warranty MUCH CHEAPER if you go out of state << cough >> << cough >> KC Summers Toyota << cough >> << cough >>.
If you have any concerns about the delivery of the vehicle.....you should talk to them and inquire about whether you can get your deposit back....which I suspect they will say no. However, I have heard from competing dealers who was trying to get my business, that the deposit...by law...can be returned.
I was supposed to get my car ( according to his estimate ) before Christmas ( about 4 weeks after my deposit ). However, the dealer then pushed the date to a week later. I emailed everyday to him asking if it came in......until my wife finally nagged me into calling him up, asking him to find out the exact delivery date and then threaten to get my deposit back so that I can look elsewhere. The dealer had said that the vehicle would be delivered in less then 3 days ( which day was unclear ) but because of the Christmas and New Year Holidays, they have not received that many shipment of new cars. So I told him that if I don't get it in 3 days, I will be looking at other options.
Surprisingly....4 hours later....I received a call back from the dealer saying that a shipment arrived that evening and that Sienna arrived that evening and that I can pick it up the next day....which I did this last Monday.
( BTW...if I waited for 2 1/2 months for the vehicle...my wife would have killed me and then called the dealer demanding the deposit back so that we can look elsewhere )
As a previous poster indicated....2 1/2 months is way too long. My dealer was able to at least tell me that the vehicle has physically shipped from ( I think ) New Jersey. To me...it is B/S that a dealer cannot physically locate where your vehicle is...whether it is sitting in a parking lot at the manufacturer or if it is 2 feet from his office....a "I don't know" answer is not acceptable ( especially when you are going to spend so much money on a big ticket item like that ).
If I were you, see if you can get a better ship date then "I don't know". If the answer is still the same...I would start inquiring about getting your deposit back...cuz in the 2 1/2 months that you have been waiting...you probably could have gotten a better deal ( or at least have your deal matched by a dealer that had the car in stock and be driving the vehicle by now ) through another dealer during the Thanksgiving or Year End Sales.
I got phone calls from two of them, John Eagle Sport and Fowler Toyota promising that they would offer "$500 over invoice."
Appearantly Toyota has made a concerted effort to deal with people who research on the internet by training "Internet Salesmen" and hopelessly muddying the water.
$500 over + Destination for a CE with package A and Package 1 in Dallas is 22,500.
After I drove all the way over there, I had the same experience as many others had written about. The Toyota "Invoice" had $700 worth of non-negotiable fees.
I talked the salesman down to 22,800 before he called in the Sales manager who then said he was mistaken and said the best they could give was 23,100.
I walked away. They called several times, but never backed down.
I then called the other Internet Salesman from Fowler Toyota and told him that I was going to hold him to his word and pay only $22,500. He told me that there was no way he could get in that ballpark. I later got a phone call from someone else from that dealership after we had made our purchase, but I did not call her back.
Next I called a third dealership, Toyota of Richardson asking if 22,500 was do-able. He said they would seriously consider the offer and they had LOTS of CE's to choose from. We drove all the way over there to find they had ONE.
Then they promptly told me how naive I was to think they would sell one of their cars at such a huge loss and how I shouldn't believe anything I read at Edmunds.com, cars.com, or consumerreports. Every state has a different invoice. When I asked them why Honda was straight forward, they said Toyota is different from Honda.
I ended going to Honda and getting (after a lot of work) a deal for $500 over invoice at Rusty Wallace Honda.
I like the Toyota better, but at least I know what I'm buying with the Honda.
I guess I didn't see your post. There are so many of them.
You are right. Package10 IS the GL package (DVD), which I didn't want. I wanted Pkg#9(GL minus DVD) because I think the DVD is too small and I can get a much better one after market but again Toyota doesn't seem to make such combination and I can't wait for special order.
Anyway, my OTD is such:
Car: 34282
Tax(8.25%): 2828
Doc: 45
License: 268
OTD: 37423
I don't know how much is the spoiler. The dealer did offer me the running board for 400 but I don't need it.
Thanks for the tip for warranty. I saw those posts about it I have already emailed KC.
I hope someone can comment about the TDA.
There is only one Toyota dealer in Palo Alto. I guess you know who it is now. Their internet department is very good I think. The sunnyvale dealer is also good in terms of communication by email but they refuse to go below 800 above dealer invoice (again including the $525 TDA).
Sean
Did you pay $800 over the invoice listed on Edmunds, or $800 over the invoice dealer showed you which should include the TDA I assume?
Sean
Glad to hear that you walked away - perhaps someday they will get the message.
The price I've been quoted is 36172 + $45 doc fee, $2987 sales tax, $324 for DMV. Altogether it will be $39530 OTD. Not the greatest price, but good enough for me. I live in Southern California for those interested.
i'll need to fly out of state to pick it up. do i just need to call my insurance company & tell them i'm buying it so that i'll be covered on the drive home? also, do i take care of titling, licensing, & registration all on my own after i get back home, or is there something that the dealer must do as well, even though they're out of state?
i'll be paying cash, so i don't think there will be too much to worry about in terms of the financials, but does anyone have any advice about other things i should do before flying out of state to get the vehicle?
thanks!
I looked at the email response from KC Summers....the Finance guy specified that it was $795 for the Platinum Protection Plan ( but didn't specify which one ). When I checked the Toyota Website, I then realized that there are "low-end" to "high-end" Platinum Protection plans.
Looking at your paperwork,
Does it specify that you paid $795 for the Platinum Protection with the "7 year / 100,000 Total Miles / $0 Deductible" Extended Warranty ( and not the "lower-end" version of the Platinum Protection Warranty such as the lower end "3 year / 50000 Total Miles / $50 Deductible" Platinum Warranty that costs $850 on the Toyota Website ).
I wanted to be sure that the Finance guy wasn't referring to the lower-end version of the Platinum Protection Plan for $795 when I am thinking that he is offering the "top of the Line "7 year / 100,000 Total Miles / $0 Deductible" Platinum Warranty that I am looking for $795.
kirstie_h
Roving Host
Host, Smart Shopper & Future Vehicles discussions
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
The Invoice price was $35,682. Nothing else over it, but the tax & incense and the $800 over. FYI this Invoice price includes $565 dest, $119 floor mats, $607 Dealer TDA and $705 hold back.
Other dealers had the TDA in there as well, but you may time it right and get a better deal. The dealers still have plenty of margin built in as you can see. Good Luck!
Although likely not required by your carrier, it never hurts to call with the VIN before you go to pick it up.
You should be able to do the titling either way. If you do it yourself, you do run the (tiny) risk of having alot of hassle if there is a problem with the paperwork supplied by the dealer. My preference is to have them do it BUT, if you take that route, be sure to have the phone number for your local titling office because the dealer may well want to call to get correct information on your state tax rate and other fees so they can collect the correct amount from you.
Also, you may need to provide your insurance info to the dealer (perhaps they will even require agent's verification, as happened to me on an out of state purchase in Kentucky where they did it over the fax).
Other than that, just do the same things you would do on any new car purchase.
Have a nice flight (and drive home)!
i can't believe the games these guys play! just last week he e-mailed me LISTING all the features of the EXACT vehicle that i wanted. later that same day is when he quoted me the otd price of $35,607.
he claims that the new otd price is the price he paid ($35,470) + $200 + fees ($743) + tax. $743 in fees?!?! does this deal sound EXTREMELY fishy to anybody else?
anyway, if i have an out-of-state dealer do the titling, will they give me an out-of-state title, or will the title be for my home state? also, if the out-of-state dealer does the titling, do they charge the taxes of my home state or of the state in which i bought the vehicle?
thanks.
On an out of state transaction, the dealer will send the manufacturer's certificate of origin (and your state's taxes, already collected from you) to your state which will then issue the title. Depending on local custom, it will then be sent to the dealer who will forward it to you or sent to you directly.
It might be easier to think of it this way: there isn't (or at least shouldn't be) any difference between and in-state and out-of state deal.
Most insurance companies will cover you for 20-30 days from date of purchase, without prior notification, but if never hurts to let your agent know what your planning just so there are not problems on the way home.
Sales tax should be based on where you live, not where you buy. but again, they need proof of residency.
Good Luck.
Have pretty much come to the conclusion that here in CT the AWD van is the way to go too. Loved the Hondy Ody but the AWD Sienna is a clincher for our family. Do you have any good dealer contacts that you are willing to share ?
Have tried one in Wallingford that was 7k more than an ody.
Thanks, Steve.
Sienna XLE LTD AWD with DVD/NAV package and running boards/spoiler.
38,450 Car
3,173 Tax
315 Lic Fee
45 Doc Fee
$41,982 OTD
As far as I can tell this is $260 over invoice which include Destination.
I have a Sienna being built at the factory, but it is too late to add the spoiler. The quoted me at $685 for it! On the Toyota website it lists the MSRP as $499, and I found a message on here from ages ago that someone paid $399 for a dealer installed one.
After looking through here, I feel pretty good about the price they quoted me for the car, but I feel completely ripped off on the spoiler.
Also, if I feel is not fair, are there any tricks out of the deal, after one night of have bought it ? (except claiming lemon which I have no malfunctioning yet to claim...)
Bought it on a Seattle area dealer.
2005 Toyota Sienna
XLE AWD with Package #10 and spoilers
$36,500 (price with options)
$2893.35 (tax)
35 doc fee
~200 lic fee
I pushed to get one extra day to decide on the 7 yrs/100,000 miles ext warranty (sales person asked for $1800. Is the ext warranty a good deal?)
Deal also pushed to make buy pre-paid maintenance for $995, which I declined and other fancy stuff to cover the hood exterior, which I also declined)
Dealer # 1
----------
Includes Pkg # 7
Wheel Locks (Alloy)
Glass Breakage Sensor (GBS)
Invoice: $32519 (includes dest charge)
Offer : $32919
+ taxes + tags + title + $249 processing fee
Dealer #2
---------
Includes Pkg # 7 - FP
Cargo Nets - GN
DPS Hitch W/Wire harness + ball mount -DH
Carpet Floor Mats & Door Sill Protector -CF
Invoice: $32,841 (includes dest charge)
Offer: $33,241
+ taxes + tags + title + $289 processing fee
What do you guys think abt the offer. I guess the dealer processing fee is too high. I am not sure whats the minimum people have paid towards processing fee.
Also, can anyone tell me what is the "DPS Hitch W/Wire harness + ball mount" option? Any ideas?
i actually don't feel very good about the deal 'cause i don't think that it was the best price, & in hindsight i wasn't too happy about how i was treated. when i first contacted them last month, their internet guy wouldn't go below $38k, so that immediately ended negotiations. out of the blue they called me back last week asking if i was still in the market. i said i was, so they located a vehicle for me in nevada.
i was already negotiating w/ the dealer in nevada who had the vehicle, so i knew which one they were talking about. however, the guy in nevada had raised the price on me to $36,413 + tax otd after initially quoting me $35,607 + tax otd. i decided to see what karl malone toyota could offer me.
i was ready to talk numbers over the phone, but i was told i could get the best deal in person to prove that i was serious. "fine," i thought, & drove down there.
to avoid the hassle of going to nevada, i was willing to pay a little more than the $36,413 that the nevada dealer quoted. i gave the salesman my best offer of $36,650 + tax otd right away 'cause i wanted to avoid all the haggling. i even told him that this was my final offer 'cause i had an out-of-state dealer that i could buy from for $36,413.
he didn't seem to understand this, though, 'cause over the next 2 hours he tried to squeeze more money out of me. he got his manager to talk to me. he told me they would have to pay freight for doing a dealer trade. he told me to think about the price of a plane ticket & the trouble of driving back a vehicle that was bought out-of-state. i wasn't interested in any of his arguments, though, & i kept trying to tell him & his manager that $36,650 was my FNAL offer!
finally they agreed & proceeded to look up the nevada vehicle. they discover that it's not available, though, so they find another one in colorado. at first i agreed to take the one in colorado, but then i looked at the features list. it didn't include running boards! i told them that i wasn't willing to pay $36,650 without running boards.
at this point the manager said, "wait a minute, bud," & tried to intimidate me into taking the colorado vehicle for $36,650. this started a whole 'nother round of back-and-forth. finally they realized that i was ready to walk away, and the manager offered to add running boards. i agreed & submitted my deposit.
while i don't really feel that i was ripped off on the price, in hindsight i was unhappy w/ the treatment that i received. i didn't realize it at the time 'cause maybe i was too focused on trying to digest all the numbers & arguments they were throwing at me. and negotiations were never really confrontational until the end.
only in reviewing the whole process in my head afterwards did i start to become upset. instead of offering me their best deal, they kept trying to nickel-and-dime me to squeeze as much as they could out of me. they kept asking me questions about the other dealer's quote, the options on the vehicle, & where they were located. in the end it was a waste of my time 'cause the final price was what i initially offered them! at this point i'm half-hoping that the deal will fall through just so i don't have to give them my business.
i guess the moral of the story is that if you know what you want, don't let them talk you into something else. this applies to the exact vehicle that you want, but it especially applies to price. i had a maximum figure in my head that i was willing to pay and that i knew was fair. the manager even tried to get me to go to $36,850, saying that an extra $200 wasn't too much considering the total price. don't fall for that!
good luck with your buying experience, and thanks to all who posted on this board helping me with my research!
Check Carsdirect for the price of your vehicle. I don't know what package # 10 has so can't tell you. The tax amount seems a little low for the state of Washington. In the Seattle area the tax is 9.1%. Chehalis is 8.1% which is the lowest.
The pre-paid maintenance price seems very high. Toyota of Puyallup offered that package for $410. The extended warranty price can be as low as $775. You can buy the warranty later anyway.
I wouldn't buy a car from a dealership in Seattle or Renton or Burien. Their sticker price is higher than MSRP and they are rude because they think people don't have choices. I would drive to Chehalis or Puyallup or Spokane to get a better deal.
Hope this helps.
He says it is because they have to order it.
http://www.toyota.com/images/vehicles/sienna/accessories/sillprot- ector_lg.jpg
Good luck.
I am trying to find out if any one got a deal for just the invoive on Toyota sienna LE in phila area?or whta is the best price paid for Toyota seina LE with pk#3?thanks
Good luck, LH
Who is the best lender, whats the APR they gave and so on. Currently the best rate I am getting is 5.1% which is too high?
Any feedback is appreciated.
Sounds like you are ready to make the purchase. Hope my other post helped.
Your wrote: "I pushed to get one extra day to decide on the 7 yrs/100,000 miles ext warranty (sales person asked for $1800. Is the ext warranty a good deal?)
Deal also pushed to make buy pre-paid maintenance for $995, which I declined and other fancy stuff to cover the hood exterior, which I also declined)"
KC Summers is selling Warranty Platinum 7/100k for 795, AutoCare Premium 4/55k for 620. I think they are about the best price you can get. Both prices are final cost, no extras. Just go to KC Summers website and send out an online email to them about the package you want.
Which dealer did you deal with? Although I am not in Seattle area, but a shark like this deserved to be exposed to help others.
Sean
Will let you know
Appreciate it