can anyone tell me if they have ever heard of this. Also, my car is still running sluggish...any ideas. It is not registering on the computer at the mechanic and my auto dealership is just barely turning in the paperwork today. Could this be thoes ignition coils, the tranny or something else like a fuel pump
The car won't jump off the line because the turbo typically won't kick in until around 2,250-2,500 RPM (at least that's how mine works). You could probably mod it with a supercharger to get more GO off the line. You'll feel the benefits of the turbo at higher RPM's like when you get ready to pass someone or accelerate on the freeway.
I have a 1998 used Passat that I bought from a reputable dealership for my daughter when she started driving in 2003. It was maintained by me consistently. One day last, February 2006 it stopped running at a stop light as she was on her way to school. It needed a new engine part that would cost anywhere from $8,000-10,000 so I opted out on doing this. I would like to sell the car for the body which is in EXCELLENT condition.
FWIW, I suspect that you can take your car to a local European car specialist and have them rebuild your existing motor for somewhere between $2,000-$4,000. I just took a look at the individual parts that would be required for a rebuild and they really aren't all that expensive.
Try cross-posting here: Purchasing Used Vehicles. That's a discussion on our Smart Shopper board that isn't vehicle specific, but someone there may have some thoughts for you.
I see that this mail is over 2 years old, but is the first i have seen that states a copy of the VW warranty letter has been found. PLEEEAAAASE can you post a copy on the site or Email a copy to me. I just hope you can help me out as i too am a victim of sludging and want to do battle with VW. Thanks in advance.
Does anybody out there have a copy of the letter from VW stating the extended warranty cover following the issue of sump sludge that VW have acknowledged.
If you do please can you post a copy, i am ready to go into battle with VW, i just need some ammunition.
I probably have a copy in my files at home. I'll see if I can find it and PDF it to you. You'll need to "drop your shields" and give an email address (use a throw-away, if you'd like). Wait until tomorrow to see if I can find it for you...
I found a pdf of the letter, the TSB, and the list of acceptable oils online at my local library's website. It won't link, but I have the PDF on my PC. Give me an address and I'll send it to you, or you can check your own public library for access.
At 80K it's time to replace the rear brake pads on my 03 Passat 1.8T (finally! - first time ever). At German Auto Parts.com, the price difference between OEM Jurids ($29) and various fancier options -Pagid ($38), Mintex ($37), etc - is small, so price isn't a factor. Is there any reason to get something other than OEMs? Mintex semi-metallics? Pagids? Etc.? Or just stick with OEMs? Thanks!
That's a rather remarkable distance to have run on the OEM pads. I've seen many threads on changes under 30K. I had a lot of dust on my rear wheels from the OEM pads, so after much reading I went with PBR Deluxe Plus pads and Ate plain face rotors and have been happy with the choice. They have been essentially dust-free on the rears. I'd say that their bite is about the same as the OEM Jurids, but they seem to be more long-wearing. But wear certainly isn't an issue for you. If you were content with the Jurids, why not give'em another go?
BTW, the Ate rotors I have rusted on the hat area. A bit unslightly. I think Ate has a new line of rotors out that are supposed to be coated/treated. Might be worth checking out.
Word on the street is that Mintex isn't what they once were. I'd avoid them, just on the gossip factor.
Thanks, altair - the main reason they lasted so long was not the pads, but that I drive mostly on the highway - so there's relatively little braking involved. (Also, in town I coast up to lights and that sort of thing -and actually also on the highway, try to avoid getting into heavy braking/ accelerating.) The rotors, btw, are fine at 80K - amazed the service guy. As for what I got, in the end I took it to a good independent mechanic, Whitedog Auto, and used the Jurids he had on hand. Charged me a total of $130 for parts and labor (compared to $219 asked by the dealer!) and did a great job. I don't think I could have done much better by buying online, right?
I think I spent about $85 in parts & supplies (brake cleaner and brake quiet) when I did a DIY on the rear brakes last time. I got the parts (PBR pads and Ate rotors) at getcoolparts.com - shipping is free over $50. I spent a couple of hours on the job - took my time because it was the first brake job I had done in twenty years and I just spent a while just looking at the design, layout, etc. I kinda like to admire the work of the engineers.
My wife's 2000 Passat is (was) VW certified. The car has about 75K. There is an Emissions Workshop note on the read-out along with a Check Engine light lit. We took it to a local garage who fixes many of our car problems (I hate to take it to a VW dealer). They said the preliminary computer report said it was perhaps the catalytic converter. After reading many of the posts here and elsewhere it seems that this Emissions Workshop and Check Engine message is very general and could mean many things. Is the computer read-out the best source for an evaluation of these notices?
I have a quick question on the rear brake project - I used to do all my own brake work but haven't worked on my '03 Passat which will need rear brakes soon. Are there any special tools required to retract the caliper or is that a pretty standrd process? Thanks for ant tips you may have -
Good question on your part...this is going to save you some time. The rear brake piston needs to be turned and compressed simultaneously to retract the piston.
I rented one from Autozone for free (you pay $35, but it's fully refunded upon return within 60 or 90 days).
I've read about others using a c clamp and needle nose pliers to do this, but this tool makes it ssssooooo easy, why go through the hassle? Advance Auto and I think even Pep Boys may do the same kind of tool rental.
This was the first brake job I did in 20 years - it went very smoothly. Buy a small packet of brake grease at the counter of your favorite auto parts store. I'd also suggest coating the rear of the pads with brake quiet (I used the bottle, not the spray). If you google "Passat Information-base rear brakes" you might find some good instructions....
Like many that posted before me I'd like the reassurance of strangers that my potential purchase is sound.
I'm looking at purchasing a 2001.5 1.8T Passat (manual) with 50K miles for just over $7k. I'll probably drive it today and if it looks good get a thorough inspection. It has a clear carfax report (2 owners).
I intend to use the vehicle as a commuter vehicle and will only put on approx 8k miles a year (suburban & highway miles). I need the vehicle to last at least 3 years.
I've read a few hundred posts (little apprehensive now) and realize the maintenance must be followed. I'll ask if maintenance records are available (I think the sludge extended coverage is transferable) but I doubt they are.
History: We're a one vehicle family and I need to purchase another because of the school year starting (kids). We've recently moved to a new city so we'll be looking at buying a house within the year. I'll be paying cash for the vehicle because I don't want to adversely affect my debt/income levels when mortgage time comes...and being a one income family these ratios can get easily affected with two car payments
I've been tempted to just lease a new VW Jetta (and even a base 328i...very attractive lease rates) since the lease rates for 3 years come out close to the amount I'm thinking about spending...I've leased before and it's never worked out well for me...it's always a couple grand down...then loose a couple grand when trading in on something else (probably a bad decision to trade in...)
Also...I think the total amount of the vehicle you're leasing counts in your debt/income ratio for your mortgage.
Maybe I should just go get a 2003 corolla (yuk)
Question: Have most of the early problems (the dark times) associated with the Passat been resolved? I'm assuming that at 50K miles all the recall items and issues have been addressed; obviously I'd confirm this before purchasing.
Does the price and mileage seem reasonable?
I did have a slight reprieve from my purchase anxiety...I talked to a co-work that owns a 2001 1.8T (manual) and they have had absolutely no problems. He didn't even know about the coil issues or sludge. They just take their vehicle in for regular service (he did say synthetic) and had any recall work done then. I supposed ignorance is bliss may come into play here
I am interested in changing my OEM antenna on my 01.5 Passat to a shark fin antenna. I wanted to know if anyone could tell me where I can find a multifunctional shark fin antenna that will catch AM/FM + Satellite. I heard the BMW 7-series uses a multifunctional antenna, and possibly the Touareg as well as some Audis. If anyone can help me with this, I'd appreciate it. I know it would probably be a lot of trouble to set it up, but I still want to know if it can be done, and how.
One more thing--if there isn't a multifunctional shark fin available that I'm looking for, will the 06 Passat multifunctional antenna fit on mine?
I'm at a loss. I absolutely love this car, but sometimes love to hate it. Its the 30V 2.8L with 4motion and triptronic. I accelerate as normal but when I get to around 2500 to 3000 rpms, it's like I let my foot off the gas, but I push it down harder and I get no response from the engine. It starts just slowing down to an idle. Then out of nowhere (with my foot still on the gas) it takes off like a jackrabbit. I'm defenitely a DIY guy to a point and like to figure out the problem before I take it in to a shop. But I don't even know where to begin with this one. Anybody with any ideas? :confuse:
IVAN 99 - Well, the 2001 passat 1.8T is absolutely the worst car I have ever owned. Many, many problems w/engine, sensors, electronics, trunk latch, glove box, etc... I bought it new and I still have it... each time I have had a repair (by the dealer), I say, "that must be the last problem." But, it never is. The only good thing about the car is the paint job. When clean it looks as shiny as new. Good luck to you...I would look for a Honda or a Toyota if you have not purchased VW yet. I would look at Hyundai before VW as well.
NOT SURE HOW LONG AGO YOU POSTED. I HAVE A 98 SEDAN TURBO W. STICK SHIFT. SAME PROB. THIS SUMMER OCCASIONALLY THE CLUTCH PEDAL STAY FULLY DEPRESSED. PULL OVER, STOP. WAIT 'TILL ENGINE COOLS DOWN. FINALLY, FOUND A LOCAL MECH. WHO WOULD WORK ON IT, NO VW DEALER IN TOWN. HAD TO REPLACE, CLUTCH DISC, SLAVE CYL. AND MASTER CYL. STILL NOT SURE WHERE THE PROB. WAS BUT THE CLUTCH WAS WORN OUT (100K MILES ON IT). FIRST FEW MECHANICS I VISITED COULDN'T EVEN FIND THE MAST. CYL. I'D GUESS THE WAGON ISN'T FAR FROM THE SAME NEEDS. IF YOUR IN A COMMUNITY WITH OUT A RESPONSIBLE DEALER YOUR IN FOR LOTS OF PROBLEMS.
JUST HAD SOME WORK DONE ON THE PASSAT BY A LOCAL DEALER. NOW WHEN I TURN ON THE RADIO THE WORD "SAFE" APPEARS ON THE SMALL SCREEN. NOTHING IN THE MANUAL ABOUT IT. GOD I HATE GERMAN ENGINEERING. HELP, PLEASE.
PLEASE STOP YELLING, IT'S CONSIDERED RUDE AND RATHER ANNOYING. Thank you.
That said, your car came with a special insert that deals with resetting the radio (which was probably built in Asia by the way). If you don't have it, call VWoA, I believe they keep them on file.
Hey everyone, Maybe someone can help. The egine in my 02 VW passat wont start. Wont even turn. I tought it might be electrical so because the lgiths in car wont even start. So I changed the battery. And nothing. With the new battery some of the electricle comes on. But stays dime like the battery is draing. When i jump start the car it turns fine without any problems. could this be the alternator? or some short in the systems and adavice? :sick:
I am selling my 01 Passat Wagon GLS V6. Been a great vehicle for the family, but I just purchased a 07 Odessey for more family room. I will be selling the VW privately and it will be my first private sale. I wanted to inquire about recommended asking price.
01 GLS V6 Wagon 84k - Auto, Cloth Tape/CD/4 disk changer non-smoker I am 2nd owner, bought in 02 with 11k on vehicle
KBB says about $8500. Looking are cars.com for comps, most comparables are $11k-13k.
What does the group recommend an asking price? Any other advice?
I have a 1999 VW Passat Wagon w/75,000 miles. Cloth is detaching from front door panels and around door handles. Cloth almost totally detached from sunshade in roof. .. Center armrest cover is broken. Gearshift boot is threadbare. I'm not a DIY'er . One auto reupholstery shop recommended I get try to locate salvage parts rather than having parts reupholstered.
Would appreciate your thoughts on way to go -- salvage or reupholstery. Is reupholstery a very time consuming job for auto shop? What do I need to request so that cloth doesn't detach again?
I just sold my 2001 VW Passat GLX V6 -- basically loaded -- to Carmax for $4500. It had 39,000 miles on it.
Not very much, $4500, is it?
Here is what I experienced in my efforts to sell and here is what I concluded:
1) People in the used car business -- dealers, Carmax, etc -- don't actually use Kelly Blue Book. They use something called the Black Book. Everyone purchaser of used cars uses this Black Book and it is well below any of KBB's numbers, or edmunds, or NADA.
2) To get top dollar your car needs to be utterly clean. Mine was anything but -- Fair condition at best.
3) I decided it was not worth it to spend the time and effort to get top dollar for my Passat. In an hour and a half I had a check from Carmax and I walked out the door.
At the beginning of my efforts to sell this car I was thinking $8000 for sure but I am fairly certain the only way I could swing that would be to invest time and money in body repair, touch ups, etc.
Recently purchased 02 Passat 2.8L V6. Lot's to like about the care but it certainly seems to have an annoying anti-theft system. I find that I can't leave it unlocked in the garage for more than about 1 minute before the system is armed and ready. As soon as someone goes out and opens an already unlocked door, the alarm screams. Also notice that sometimes simply shutting the hood or trunk lid sets the thing off. Anyone know if this if proper operation? It seems to me that I should be able to leave the car unlocked in the driveway or garage and then access the car at anytime without worrying about having the transmitter in my pocket. Any help would be appreciated. Is it possible there are sensors that are failing or need reprogramming?
Thanks. Since posting I've found an aftermarket AntiTheft system installed. That works along side the VW system. I've been able to turn down the sensitivity and can put it into what's called "Valet Mode" so I don't have to deal with a screaming alarm everytime I open the door in the garage!
Have you ever had any water intrusion issues? Could be your CCM is going bad.
When you lock the car's doors with the remote, do all of the doors actually lock? Juwt thinkiing outloud here, but I think you might have a bad microswitch on either a door or the trunk/hatch.
Hi all, I am considering a used Passat for my son's first car. Most seem to be in the 100K mile range for model years 2002 - 2004. Just wondering what the general thoughts are on the car. Any major issues to look for? i.e. trans. issues? motor issues? They seem to have a good reputation but I would like to hear it from some current owners. Thanks, Nick
You need new timing belt by 105K miles. It costs almost 1K to get it done. If the engine is 1.8T then it must have used oils meeting VW spec 502.01 or better all its life (very good synthetics - the easiest available are Mobil 1 0W40 and Castrol Syntec 0W30) changed each 5000 miles or sooner.
Comments
Mid- to large-sized wagons with manual transmission seem to be the most rare type of car species...
I'm now vacillating between used VW Passat and BMW 525 wagon. Any words of wisdom would be much appreciated.
FWIW, I suspect that you can take your car to a local European car specialist and have them rebuild your existing motor for somewhere between $2,000-$4,000. I just took a look at the individual parts that would be required for a rebuild and they really aren't all that expensive.
Best Regards,
Shipo
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=222087787
carfax tells me there is 8 months / 9K miles warranty.. but the ad doesnt list it? why is this the case?
also should i be suspicious of such a low price? what questions should i ask the dealer?
thanks in advance
Good luck - let us know what happens.
I just hope you can help me out as i too am a victim of sludging and want to do battle with VW.
Thanks in advance.
If you do please can you post a copy, i am ready to go into battle with VW, i just need some ammunition.
Thanks in advance.
Send to freespirit1@carspace.com.
Thanks again for your response. I will post again when i have some more news, good or bad.
Any information helps!
Thanks
Thanks!
BTW, the Ate rotors I have rusted on the hat area. A bit unslightly. I think Ate has a new line of rotors out that are supposed to be coated/treated. Might be worth checking out.
Word on the street is that Mintex isn't what they once were. I'd avoid them, just on the gossip factor.
The rotors, btw, are fine at 80K - amazed the service guy.
As for what I got, in the end I took it to a good independent mechanic, Whitedog Auto, and used the Jurids he had on hand. Charged me a total of $130 for parts and labor (compared to $219 asked by the dealer!) and did a great job. I don't think I could have done much better by buying online, right?
I think I spent about $85 in parts & supplies (brake cleaner and brake quiet) when I did a DIY on the rear brakes last time. I got the parts (PBR pads and Ate rotors) at getcoolparts.com - shipping is free over $50. I spent a couple of hours on the job - took my time because it was the first brake job I had done in twenty years and I just spent a while just looking at the design, layout, etc. I kinda like to admire the work of the engineers.
I have a quick question on the rear brake project - I used to do all my own brake work but haven't worked on my '03 Passat which will need rear brakes soon. Are there any special tools required to retract the caliper or is that a pretty standrd process? Thanks for ant tips you may have -
I rented one from Autozone for free (you pay $35, but it's fully refunded upon return within 60 or 90 days).
I've read about others using a c clamp and needle nose pliers to do this, but this tool makes it ssssooooo easy, why go through the hassle? Advance Auto and I think even Pep Boys may do the same kind of tool rental.
This was the first brake job I did in 20 years - it went very smoothly. Buy a small packet of brake grease at the counter of your favorite auto parts store. I'd also suggest coating the rear of the pads with brake quiet (I used the bottle, not the spray). If you google "Passat Information-base rear brakes" you might find some good instructions....
Thanks! Great information that should make the job alot easier - a good argument for the value of these forums
Thanks again -
I'm looking at purchasing a 2001.5 1.8T Passat (manual) with 50K miles for just over $7k. I'll probably drive it today and if it looks good get a thorough inspection. It has a clear carfax report (2 owners).
I intend to use the vehicle as a commuter vehicle and will only put on approx 8k miles a year (suburban & highway miles). I need the vehicle to last at least 3 years.
I've read a few hundred posts (little apprehensive now) and realize the maintenance must be followed. I'll ask if maintenance records are available (I think the sludge extended coverage is transferable) but I doubt they are.
History:
We're a one vehicle family and I need to purchase another because of the school year starting (kids). We've recently moved to a new city so we'll be looking at buying a house within the year. I'll be paying cash for the vehicle because I don't want to adversely affect my debt/income levels when mortgage time comes...and being a one income family these ratios can get easily affected with two car payments
I've been tempted to just lease a new VW Jetta (and even a base 328i...very attractive lease rates) since the lease rates for 3 years come out close to the amount I'm thinking about spending...I've leased before and it's never worked out well for me...it's always a couple grand down...then loose a couple grand when trading in on something else (probably a bad decision to trade in...)
Also...I think the total amount of the vehicle you're leasing counts in your debt/income ratio for your mortgage.
Maybe I should just go get a 2003 corolla (yuk)
Question:
Have most of the early problems (the dark times) associated with the Passat been resolved? I'm assuming that at 50K miles all the recall items and issues have been addressed; obviously I'd confirm this before purchasing.
Does the price and mileage seem reasonable?
I did have a slight reprieve from my purchase anxiety...I talked to a co-work that owns a 2001 1.8T (manual) and they have had absolutely no problems. He didn't even know about the coil issues or sludge. They just take their vehicle in for regular service (he did say synthetic) and had any recall work done then. I supposed ignorance is bliss may come into play here
Suggestions?
One more thing--if there isn't a multifunctional shark fin available that I'm looking for, will the 06 Passat multifunctional antenna fit on mine?
I accelerate as normal but when I get to around 2500 to 3000 rpms, it's like I let my foot off the gas, but I push it down harder and I get no response from the engine. It starts just slowing down to an idle. Then out of nowhere (with my foot still on the gas) it takes off like a jackrabbit. I'm defenitely a DIY guy to a point and like to figure out the problem before I take it in to a shop. But I don't even know where to begin with this one. Anybody with any ideas? :confuse:
Krzys
Well, the 2001 passat 1.8T is absolutely the worst car I have ever owned. Many, many problems w/engine, sensors, electronics, trunk latch, glove box, etc... I bought it new and I still have it... each time I have had a repair (by the dealer), I say, "that must be the last problem." But, it never is. The only good thing about the car is the paint job. When clean it looks as shiny as new. Good luck to you...I would look for a Honda or a Toyota if you have not purchased VW yet. I would look at Hyundai before VW as well.
Krzys
SURE WHERE THE PROB. WAS BUT THE CLUTCH WAS WORN OUT (100K MILES ON IT). FIRST FEW MECHANICS I VISITED COULDN'T EVEN FIND THE MAST. CYL. I'D GUESS THE WAGON ISN'T FAR FROM THE SAME NEEDS. IF YOUR IN A COMMUNITY WITH OUT A RESPONSIBLE
DEALER YOUR IN FOR LOTS OF PROBLEMS.
NOW WHEN I TURN ON THE RADIO THE WORD "SAFE" APPEARS ON THE SMALL SCREEN. NOTHING IN THE MANUAL ABOUT IT. GOD I HATE
GERMAN ENGINEERING. HELP, PLEASE.
That said, your car came with a special insert that deals with resetting the radio (which was probably built in Asia by the way). If you don't have it, call VWoA, I believe they keep them on file.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I am selling my 01 Passat Wagon GLS V6. Been a great vehicle for the family, but I just purchased a 07 Odessey for more family room. I will be selling the VW privately and it will be my first private sale. I wanted to inquire about recommended asking price.
01 GLS V6 Wagon 84k - Auto, Cloth
Tape/CD/4 disk changer
non-smoker
I am 2nd owner, bought in 02 with 11k on vehicle
KBB says about $8500. Looking are cars.com for comps, most comparables are $11k-13k.
What does the group recommend an asking price? Any other advice?
Thanks in advance
Would appreciate your thoughts on way to go -- salvage or reupholstery. Is reupholstery a very time consuming job for auto shop? What do I need to request so that cloth doesn't detach again?
Appreciate your help.
Not very much, $4500, is it?
Here is what I experienced in my efforts to sell and here is what I concluded:
1) People in the used car business -- dealers, Carmax, etc -- don't actually use Kelly Blue Book. They use something called the Black Book. Everyone purchaser of used cars uses this Black Book and it is well below any of KBB's numbers, or edmunds, or NADA.
2) To get top dollar your car needs to be utterly clean. Mine was anything but -- Fair condition at best.
3) I decided it was not worth it to spend the time and effort to get top dollar for my Passat. In an hour and a half I had a check from Carmax and I walked out the door.
At the beginning of my efforts to sell this car I was thinking $8000 for sure but I am fairly certain the only way I could swing that would be to invest time and money in body repair, touch ups, etc.
Hope this helps.
When you lock the car's doors with the remote, do all of the doors actually lock? Juwt thinkiing outloud here, but I think you might have a bad microswitch on either a door or the trunk/hatch.
If the engine is 1.8T then it must have used oils meeting VW spec 502.01 or better all its life (very good synthetics - the easiest available are Mobil 1 0W40 and Castrol Syntec 0W30) changed each 5000 miles or sooner.
Krzys