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Buick Regal

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Comments

  • Hello,

    I have 96 Regal. Just replaced the radiator. The Part was $200.00 and installation was $65.00.

    My Radiator has developed crack on left hand side near the intake. Very hair line crack and it was leaking very slowly.

    About the sensor, The coolant sensor is located on the left hand side(driver side). That senses coolant level. If sensor is bad or coolant level in Radiator is low, then LOW coolant light will appear on the Dash board.
  • I was given a 91 buick regal LS from my parents. So it's 16 years old and it hasen't had any problems. We don't know how many miles are on it becuase 4 years ago the odometer stopped at 45,000 miles and i only use it to get to and from work so it doesn't have over 100,000 miles on it. I was just wondering if anyone knew at what mileage regals start to have problems.
  • I have replaced fuel filter, fuel pump, spark plugs, plugs wire set, Ignition coils, and cleaned the fuel injsctor - car still stalls intermitently when slowing at stop sign, etc and can be restarted immediately with key
  • I had that problem... it was the crank shaft sensor
  • atd01atd01 Posts: 1
    2000 Regal GS won't start without gas, and will immediately stall when accelerator released. Too much gas, or not enough spark. Ign. coils and ign. module new. Spark plugs and wires new. Mass air sensor shows approx. 20 ohms of resistance. Whats next?
  • I have a 1996 buick regal it will turn under the hood, however it will not crank from the switch..have any idea what may be wrong.
  • do u know where i can buy a Strut Tower Brace for my 97 buick
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,707
    Rockauto.com and your local recycling yard!

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • I have a 2000 Regal GS Super Charged with the same problem, what was your solution for this?

    Thank you
    Chris
  • 2000 Buick Regal Super Charged GS 3600

    * * * Problem * * *
    My Dad is currently having a problem with his Buick, Last night he came home and stated that the car just seemed to die on him when he was coming down the road. He took it back out for a trip around the block and came back with no problems. However

    This morning when he went to leave. The car would start up run for about 3 - 5 seconds then just stall no flashing lights no error codes or engine lights. When trying to start the car again same problem. The car will start with no problem then just stall, All of the electrical systems are working fine from what I can tell.

    * * * Trouble Shooting So Far * * *
    I checked all of the fuses and I checked to make sure all the grounds where connected okay and didn't find any problems there.

    * * * Observations * * *
    However I did notice that the coolant Level was a little low.
    After giving this some thought. I was wondering if the car had a " " Safty feature on it that prevented from over heating. Sure enough they do. However after reading about this "Over Heat Protection Mode" It doesn't state that it will prevent the car from starting up. Since it's not my car and I don't want to start fooling with things I was hoping somebody could elebrate a little more on this feature. So I could make a suggestion of adding more coolent to his car.

    Also if you have had this problem or know about this problem with the Buicks and have any other suggestions please let me know

    I read a very similar artical on this site that suggested it might be the Crank Shaft Sensor, Would anybody know where this is located at to see if it is bad or not. Is it easy to gain access to?

    Also any other thoughts on this problem would be greatly welcomed.

    Thank you
    Chris
  • I replaced the crankshaft sensor and the problem is gone
  • I repled about the replacement of the crabkshaft sensor and my local mechanic replaced it - but my cars problem was that it would stall as I drove and when I just then put the shift lever in nuetral, I could easily re-start the car and drive on - it was problem that lasted for months as I had one thing then another replaced and nothing solved the problem until I had a new crankshaft sensor put in - you can find it for sale at ROCK AUTO on the web - its not an expensive part - cost of labor is whatevr via your mechanic, My cost was minimal since I live in Rosarito Mexico and labor is much cheaper here than in the US
  • did you find the help you needed? i have the same problem with my regal 3800 need to know what side is the cold side
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,707
    The lines next to the firewall that go in and out of the evaporator will have an accumulator on one of them. That's a container about the diameter of your hands and maybe 8 inches long, a cylinder shape. Follow back from that toward the compressor and you'll find a cap for the low pressure side. The high pressure side should be a different size so that the quickfit recharge cans won't fit onto them because it's dangerous.

    Are you in a warm climate? We're at 18 last night, currently 38. I had used the 134a recharge gauge from Walmart that had a separate gauge you screw onto the cans. It worked great because I had lost charge slowly (10 years).

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    I wasn't sure which forum to post this story. I just read it in my local newspaper:

    http://www.dailyherald.com/story/?id=153648

    The important message to owners is not to park your car in a garage until the problem is fixed.
  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    Someone posted this link over in the Pontiac Grand Prix forum:

    http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61961

    Good grief! The repair looks very complicated (scroll down the page about 1/3 of the way to view the photos) and may take all day, or am I over-reacting? If it's an all-day repair, I hope the dealers are planning on having loaners for Regal GS (and GP GTP) owners.
  • keitheckeithec Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 2002 Buick Regal LS with 110k miles on the car. Both the oil and transmission lines leak. The oil and transmission fluid & filter were just replaced (the shop said that there was very few if any at all metal shavings in the trans fluid, good thing).

    What is the average cost of having the oil and transmission lines replaced?

    Also, it appears that the rear window defroster, the horn, and the controls mounted on the steering column for the radio don't work, could this be just a fuse or should I have someone look into the wiring?

    Thanks...
  • Have owned this car since 2004, no problems. Got gas last Tuesday. Thursday, noticed a decrease in "power" on hills and take off. Kind of sluggish. Didn't think anything of it. It continued but nothing really alarming. Thought it was the gas. Monday (two days ago), coming home from work, it just didn't seem to be shifting right. Very little power up hills, and when I turned onto my street and accelerated, the rpms went up to 4000 before it shifted the first time, then it started making a clicking noise. Feels like transmission is slipping or something. You can feel it trying to shift but it doesn't. Mechanic said he drove it without any problems yesterday, replaced fuel filter and said it needed plugs and wires. My husband (ex-mechanic) replaced them last night. A little better on the power now, but when you accelerate, the rpms still go way up before it shifts, if it does, and then it starts making the clicking noise. Any ideas??? I know there is no way the mechanic drove it up hills or tried to get up to speed with it. He couldn't have without noticing it.
  • adriver3adriver3 Posts: 3
    Car has 165,000 miles. Has 3.8 liter original engine. Car has been very reliable. Recently did complete tuneup and replaced ignition module, which solved jerking at higher speeds, rapid acceleration Could current light acceleration problem be related to torque converter? if so, how to test it and fix it?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,707
    There is no thing as a tune up anymore. I realize it has different meanings to different folk. It used to mean replacing the points and plugs and rotor cap.

    Did you replace ignition wires? Did you replace spark plugs with AC Delco plug?

    At what speed and what gear are you feeling uneveness?

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • daveb7daveb7 Posts: 1
    I had the same symptoms on my 02. It turned out to be a plugged up catalytic converter, not a trans problem. The dealer replaced it under the smog warranty.
  • adriver3adriver3 Posts: 3
    Ignition wires were replaced. Spark plugs replaced but don't know of brand of spark plugs but can check that--may be NGK. Typically 40-60 mph on light acceleration--even downhill with light acceleration...high gear Thanks.
  • Hello. First time here. I have a 3.8 V6 with 112,000 miles. Stalled in traffic the other day. Pushed it off the street and allowed it to cool down for 5 minutes then it started right up. Two days ago it stalled again and I allowed it to cool and it started again. I drove it to work today and turned it off. Tried to restart and it wouldn't -- cranks fine but just won't ignite. Replaced air and fuel filters a few days ago. Thank you for helping.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,707
    Is it giving a spark while cranking? Attach a used spark plug to a wire and place on grounded part of engine to see spark.

    Is it firing the injectors? You can feel the pulse of use a 194 bulb with leads straightened plugged into the connector for one of the injectors while cranking.

    Possibilities: bad battery connection, especially if you have a double layer positive (red) connector. Pull plastic back to see both connectors.

    Crank position sensor. Camshaft position sensor. Some people have found
    splashing cold water on the crankshaft position sensor will change it and make the thing work and give spark and then start.

    I have also read that a ground wire connection to the connector plate below the coils can stop the ignition system.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • doug1958doug1958 Posts: 1
    I just started to have this problem with this car after a fill up i drove it for awhile and it started sputtering and i was smelling something like it was burning. checked for leaks found none all fluid level fine just had the oil and filter changed 2 weeks ago.
    car sounds louder then before. Any ideas
  • headachheadach Posts: 17
    My brother has a 1989 Buick Regal Gran Sport with the 3.1 Multi Port v6. It has 173000 miles on it and runs great on the highway. But ounce in warms up in city traffic the idle gets rough and tries to stall and sometimes show check engine light. If he put it in nuetral it stalls less often but still idles rough. I figured by taking it out of drive it will remove stress. He has replaced so many parts we couldn't begin to tell u. The ones he has replaced tring to fix this problem are the cat, plugs wires (ac delco)(bosch) (with the ac delcos the car wouldn't run and they kept cracking off in the engine)(bosch it runs and don't crack), several fuel injectors that were bad, fuel pump, fuel filter, map sensor and many o2 sensors over the last 72000 miles. He loves the car and it is his back up for when his olds alero is down. However he has put a large amount of cash in it since he bought it used in 03 when it had 100000 on it. Do you think it might be the fuel pressure regulator, mass air flow sensor or something else.
  • bdlabsbdlabs Posts: 1
    a/c and heater work great when the car is cold. When the car reaches running temp, a/c and heater will not work at all. I have replaced the control module on the dash. ( it is the manual one, not the climate control unit.) I have tested all the relays in the circuit. I can manually turn on the clutch for the compressor and the high speed fans at the relay and fuse box. If I let the car cool, everything will work again. Thanks for your help. Paul
  • headachheadach Posts: 17
    I have a 1993 Pontiac Trans Sport with the 3.8 and it has been doing the same thing for about 2 years. I have replaced Mass Airflow sensor which helped but not it, Tune up and throttle Position sensor. I have yet to find problem. I heard it was the torque converter from several people but have had three transmission repair shops drive it and told me it is not the tranni or torque converter. Good luck i have given up and drive it anyways. It has 156000 on it so i am at the point i don't wanna put more money into it. If u hear it is something simply or it is the torque converter please post it i look hear often and would love to fix this. Thank you and i hope this helped
  • paresh1paresh1 Posts: 7
    Hello All:

    Has any one charged the AC for 1996 Buick regal? I know where the charging ports are. They are right below water resorvayor. But do not know which port it is.

    Is it the one with thick tube or the one with the thin tube? Which one is charging port? What should be the pressure?

    Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • Hello. Did you ever get any replys to this thread or did you ever figure out which port was the charging port some other way??

    I am trying to figure out the same thing..I went and bought a 20 dollar manual and it just told me that only a service professional should do anything with the A/C!! I have done it on my other vehicles without an issue because usually they put a blue or different colored cap on the correct port.

    If you can shed any light on this I would greatly appreciate it. If not I will keep looking until I figure it out.

    Thanks
    Barn
  • paresh1paresh1 Posts: 7
    Yes, I was able to charge the my AC.

    The charge port is located under the Air Filter Box.

    There are two port. The correct port is located on the thick tube connecting to cylinder. The thick tube comes from compressor to clynder and from clynder to evaporator in the dash board.

    Let me know if you have any further question.
  • I have a '91 buick regal, 3.1 engine. It recently overheated while driving on the highway in very hot weather. The reserve tank to the radiator was full of water, so we are not sure why it overheated.

    I am wondering if anyone can tell me what I may be able to do to fix the engine. We have a broken valve, piston, and head. I have read that it really entails a lot to be able to do this ourselves. Anyone know more or less what the price range would be to fix this? Someone has suggested to us that it would be better to just get a new engine for the car. Opinions?? Any help is greatly appreciated. Below are pics of the piston and the head.
    <img src="http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq96/desertshi/various017.jpg
    <img src="http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq96/desertshi/various018.jpg
  • 1993 regal 3.8. I have changed the thermostat 3x, new radiator, flushed system.
    The heater works well sometimes & not at all sometimes. HELP???
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,707
    Does your thermostat housing have a bleed screw for letting air out after the system has run to full temp?

    Does your radiator stay full-not the reservoir-the radiator?

    If so, when you're done refilling and purging air from the heater, see if there's air in the thermostat housing and the radiator is full. Probably the heater can be purged of air by revving the motor after the car has run long enough on a short drive for the lower radiator hose to be hot.

    Do both heater hoses stay the same temperature indicating enough flow?

    The only thing I've heard that might apply is that when you think everything is full, have someone hold the motor at 1500 or so and you'll see the radiator level go down. Refill the radiator while they hold the motor at that speed. Put the radiator cap back on while they're still holding the speed. I've heard a talk show tell people to do that.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • I noticed about 2 months ago my regal is not getting very good gas mileage. My car has 86,000 miles and the average mpg was 23.5 mpg and quickly dropped to 19 mpg.
    The low traction light was on and the brake light was also on. I took the car to a local mechanic and they added brake fluid which took care of the lights. Then they hooked it up to a computer and found that the car had been misfiring so they changed the spark plugs and wires.
    They thought maybe the brakes were hung up and when they checked them they had to replace the pads and rotors.
    I brought my car home and I've had 3 tanks of gas through it and the average is now 16.9 mpg.

    Does anyone have an idea what the problem could be? I was hoping to take the car back to the same mechanic but he hasn't returned my call. Taking that as a bad sign I made an appointment with another mechanic on Tuesday.

    What do you think the problem could be? :sick:

    P.S. I'd also add that twice the review mirror lights stopped working and started working again hours later.I haven't noticed this problem in a week. Not sure that it's at all related.
  • Yes, I had spark plug replaced twice.

    I think engine 3800 V6 has issues. The head Gasket may have damaged and coolent may have leaked into teh Engine and May be damaging the Head assembly or something.

    This engine has history of coolent getting into the engine and damaging teh engine and mechanic do not know what the hell is going on.

    Let me know what you find out.
  • I have same issue. Changed teh Radiator and same issue. I changed teh thermostat and same issue. The engine coolent light would come on.

    The mechenic are idiots and do not know what the hell is going on.

    Then I changed the Coolent sensor. Located on the right side of teh radiator and that fixed the problem. For some reaon it was not circulating teh coolent.

    Does teh "Low Coolent" come on?

    This Model 3800 has design issue on coolent system. It also damages the engine head Gasket and other plastic Parts due to the over heating of the engine.
  • Hi, my Buick Regal runs really cold. I've put three different thermostats in it finally leaving a 195 in it. When the car is at idle the heat from the vents gets a little warmer, once you start to drive it gets cooler. The running temperature of the car is only 50F at best. Can any give me an idea as to what this may be. Any help would be appreshiated.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,707
    Not too sure about 93 Regal's setup.

    When you say running temp of the car, do you mean the motor? or the passenger compartment?

    If you're saying the motor itself is hot and upper radiator hose stays cool until thermostat opens...,
    is radiator full -- not reservoir, the actual radiator. Leaks will often drop that level without using reservoir fluid to refill. Then the heater doesn't get proper flow.

    Is the heater core full of coolant? With radiator full and motor warmed thoroughly, run motor at 2500 rpm for 10 seconds, and repeat for total of 5 times. That should burp the heater air out.

    Then bleed the air at the thermostat housing if it has a bleeder screw on top.

    Are both heater hoses the same temp when motor is completely warm--with the blower on high. That's an indicator of enough flow. IF not heater core could be blocked by crud. Sometimes a cooling system flush will clear radiator chemically. But it's usually better to remove hoses and try to gently flush both directions with water being careful not to apply water line pressure to the heater from a garden hose.

    Is the water pump circulating properly. When motor is warmed up, does water move through the radiator when the motor is gunned. A few people have found worn paddles on the impeller that don't circulate enough. Usually overheating results. One person found the impeller was sheared off completely and just lying in there (he'd let the car freeze without antifreeze in coolant and pump apparently froze and twisted off impeller when car was started).

    Is the belt around the water pump in the proper direction? One person found a shorter belt had been used and the water pump was running the wrong direction--previous owner had replaced it in an emergency.

    Just trying to suggest things since I don't know how long you've owned the car or it's history of maintenance.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • Hi I have a 94 regal 3.8 with 102,000 kms on it, lately it shutters at times at low speed, almost like it isnt shifting out of everdrive... then when you ease off the pedal it seems to help. then it kicks back in gear or seems that way. the other day i was at at a red light, in drive with my foot on the brake, at it felt like someone nudged by back bumper, however no on was there... any help would be greatly appriecated.
  • bsamstagbsamstag Posts: 10
    I and 2 mechanics might disagree with you about the 2000 Regal being the best... My Piece of Junk (that has worked so nicely until 2 months ago) suddenly and without warning stalls. Usually, it restarts immediately, but there were times when it had to sit before it would restart. When the Tach goes to Zero, I can go into neutral, turn the key and restart immediately. So, it usually is a quick intermittent thing.
    Based on all the forums, I have replaced the Crank Sensor, the Low Speed Idle Sensor and the battery. The battery and alternator conncections are clean and tight, and wiring connections to the ignition switch are okay (according to my brother who runs an Automotive Electric shop in Oxnard, CA. The MAF passes the "tap test", and is apparently okay.
    The Regal has sat in both shops for over a week each with engine running, stopping only occasionally. There are no error codes in the computer after the stoppage, so we have no idea why it stopped. It restarts immediately under the in-shop condition.
    The Regal runs nicely at freeway speeds. The stalling occurs upon deceleration at a traffic light or stop sign.
    I'm looking at the Regal sitting in my driveway wondering what to do with it. I'm into it for almost $500, and no closer to a solution than when I first started.
    Oh, one more thing: there is a torsion rod in the rear which somehow got bent, and the car was almost totally uncontrollable. It happened on a dark and stormy night when the only road home was wet and winding. It took 75 minutes to go 20 miles.
    No, I'm not convinced the 2000 Regal is the best of that breed, but I'm glad you've had good luck.
  • bsamstagbsamstag Posts: 10
    I had the Crank Shaft Sensor replaced. It did not solved the problem. I had the Low Speed Idle sensor replaced. It did not solve the problem. I replaced the battery and serviced all connecting cables. That, too, did nothing to solve the problem.
    I have totally lost confidence in my 2000 Regal as an Around Town car (it runs fine on the open road at freeway speeds).
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,707
    Check connections at ISC and check the fuel pump pressure. Drive with a gauge on the windshield until it stalls. But fuel problems tend to happen after the car and fuel heat up from pumping through the system. That's not what you're describing.

    MAF sensors can also cause trouble. Some people suggest tapping on the body of it with a screwdriver handle and if the car changes speed or misses, you may have found the problem. A good test is substituting a known good one from another vehicle since many are the same part number.

    ALSO check the EGR. In fact, disconnect the EGR, will set a code, and drive it a while when it's in the shutting off mood. I've seen reports of sticking EGRs. Must have been a bad supplier. If the EGR sticks open the car gets too must exhaust gas back through and runs rough. At high speed a sticking EGR may not make a difference.

    I'm not sure what you mean by low speed idle sensor. I suspect it's the IAC, idle air control, that lets air past the butterfly to control the idle speed. Did they clean the throttle body? It gets covered with a black goop and may lead to the butterfly sticking when you first start the car; you have to press hard on the accelerator to get it to open. Many cars have this problem. It's cleaned with with solvents. Often the IAC gets gooped up too. Cars with lots of short trips and starts may do this more.

    I'm betting on the EGR, if I were a betting man. But I do wish you luck in diagnosing. It really takes a TEch II or scan tool that reads out in real time connected while driving to see what parameter went wrong when the car stalls. Your local mechanic may not have that tool. The dealer does.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • k8ysek8yse Posts: 4
    I had a similar problem with my 2001 Regal LS stalling without warning while idling or even when slowing down for a stop. Went through everything including replacing the crank sensor. No error codes. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the fuel pressure regulator which they said was leaking. Now it wasn't leaking gas, but maybe an internal leak was the problem. Fuel pressure was always good even when it stalled. Once the fuel pressure regulator was replaced the problem went away. It was also hard stating and you had to crank a bit to get it going, especially if it was warm. On very cool mornings it would start right up. Hope this will solve your problem.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,707
    Another good point. The FPRs seem to have been a problem. Must be a bad supplier or design.

    There are several things to try to check to find a problem like he's having. The FPR leaks fuel through itself into the vacuum line that controls it.

    When the car has been running and shut down, pull off the vacuum line and see if there's raw fuel in the line. There shouldn't be.

    Note that occasionally the FPR failure can cause fuel ignition inside the upper intake manifold which splits it with the pressure (explosion like a backfire). There were recalls on some years for the FPR.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • bsamstagbsamstag Posts: 10
    Thank you for that information, which has not been mentioned in any of the many forums where I've posted my Buick Regal Stalling problem. My mechanic was diagnosing an identical problem with a Buick Park Avenue, and it was resolved by replacing the FPR. Unfortunately , mine passed the "Smell Test", indicating no leakage, so the errant Regal with the penchant for stalling in an unpredictable manner still haunts my driving habits.
  • bsamstagbsamstag Posts: 10
    I'm curious how the dealer determined the FPR was leaking. The Family Financial Committee (aka: my wife) thinks I've sunk enough money trying to solve the Regal problem, but I think I'm ready to try "one more thing" if there's a chance the darn Buick would become reliable. I cannot afford to buy something to replace it. My mechanic quotes it at $115.00 with about $75.00 labor. I'm into repair approaching $500, and wonder if another $200 might work.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,707
    I think your problem is your mechanic more than your car.

    For a car to run there has to be air, fuel and spark. When a car won't run, we check for spark using at worst a screwdriver stuck in a plug wire and held close to a ground on the motor while the car is cranked. If no spark then troubleshoot ignition.

    If a car won't start we check for fuel. The fuel pressure can be checked at the fuel rail (on the FPR? by screwing on a gauge). The injector can be checked by unsnapping the electrical connection and putting in the leads from a 194 or 197 lightbulb used in running lights on cars. If it clinks, the injectors are being opened by the electronics on the car.

    If the car is running poorly a Tech II computer is connected to see which parameter is askew and then find what causes that which can be something far removed from that symptom.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • bsamstagbsamstag Posts: 10
    The Regal starts and runs nicely, so it has air, fuel and spark. The problem occurs when the Regal is decelerating, sometimes when I am applying the brakes, but the motor has stopped when coasting to a stop. The stoppage could occur within a few blocks, or after the car has been driven for an hour or more around town. It runs great at freeway speeds.

    My mechanic says he cannot fix the problem unless he can make it happen in his shop with diagnostic tools connected. Unfortunately, it rarely fails off the road, sitting stationary with the motor running. Once, it ran long enough in his shop without failing until it ran out of fuel.

    Although the Fuel Pressure Regulator passed the "smell test," indicating that there was no fuel leakage, another Buick owner said that replacement of the FPR solved his problem. The question is: Do I spend another $200 for another Shot in the Dark, and hope it solves the problem?
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