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Oldsmobile Aurora



  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I noticed the swirling in the side shot too. However, it really looks like he waxed the car and didn't buff it off very well. I'll bet some QD or a washing would remove those "swirls" pretty easily. The swirls don't seem to show up in the 3/4 shot. Also, I would think you'd have to wash the car with sandpaper for the swirls to be that obvious from that far away (4+ parking spaces away). If you are in a poorly lit garage waxing your car, the sides are the hardest place to tell if you've buffed properly. Once you roll the car outside, though, you can see all the product you missed. That's really what it looks like to me. :)

    (P.S. you misspelled Truly and Schedule on your main page of your website. :). Also, what did you use on that LSS? It looks awesome! Great depth, especially for a silver car!)
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    Too bad your not near the Chicagoland Area, you seem to do a great job on those cars.
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    "Also, I would think you'd have to wash the car with sandpaper for the swirls to be that obvious from that far away (4+ parking spaces away)."

    Actually, not at all. First of all, the car is pure black, so it shows EVERYTHING. You wouldn't have to wash with sandpaper to get marks that visible, just normal washing done improperly and the sun shining right on that side. That's why you see the marks. Overall, they aren't that bad, and could be taken care of easily.

    Thanks for finding the misspelled words! I've gone over each page with a fine-tooth comb many times, but haven't looked at it in a while. I'll fix them soon!

    Oh, and about the LSS. First, I must say that I never knew how nice of a car they are! The one I had to do was very, very nice, and the interior was huge and luxurious! The owner had kept it in quite good condition, so it wasn't that hard to do. As far as the paint, I did one coat of Klasse All-in-One polish followed by a coat of Platinum Ultimate Paint Protection. The Platinum is some great stuff and I've been using it on our black Avalanche, but will be switching to Zaino soon. Platinum is a Polymer sealant like Zaino and Klasse, but gives a deeper, wetter, carnuba like look.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I noticed you use that on your website. I've been thinking about getting some Blackfire. I understand they are pretty similar products. I like that the BF has a polish and a protectant, whereas the Platinum seems to just have the protectant (as far as I could tell). After trying some #26 I have really come to like the carnauba look. So BF or Platinum is appealing because they have a similar look in an easier-to-apply, longer-lasting product. That LSS really does look good.

    I never really understood having the LSS, the Aurora, and the Intrigue all in the same lineup (plus, the regular 88). The LSS and Intrigue both had the same 3800 engine, and the LSS could be equipped with an Aurora-challenging 3800 S/C V6. I mean, what the hell was Olds thinking? They are all pretty close in size too. It isn't like the 88/LSS was as big as a Park Avenue or the 98. The 88/LSS was on the same platform as the LeSabre/Bonneville, so it was a good-sized family sedan. Isn't that what the Aurora was too? Plus, the cost of the 88 was more around the Intrigue. Talk about a confusing line-up. It's a good thing that even by 1999 computers and the web weren't so huge (you could still get by selling vehicles without a website). Could you imagine if they had to put together one of those "which vehicle is for me" things? "Yes, I'd like a nice-sized family sedan with decent power and comfortable yet sporty handling." What the heck car would they recommend? Even if you factored in price it wouldn't thin the Olds field much (unless you demanded to spend close to $40,000). They sold the 88/LSS right up through the 1999 MY. I imagine this seriously hampered Aurora/Intrigue sales. It takes time to bring new customers in to the fold, and the long-standing Olds customers probably prefered the LSS's lower price and plain appearance. You could probably speculate the the Intrigue and Aurora brought in most of the new buyers, but since they didn't also have all the old buyers, their sales numbers were sort of low. Olds didn't really get its lineup straight until 2000, at which point they had about 1 year in which to woo new customers before they got the axe...
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    For the 1999 MY. These are from, and are base prices.

    Intrigue GX: $21,180; GL: $22,580; GLS: $24,950
    88: $23,560; LS: $25,110; 50th Ann: $27,350
    LSS: $29,110; with S/C: $30,170
    Aurora: $36,230

    It seems like the Aurora would be the biggest loser in this model lineup since it is quite a bit more expensive, and on paper doesn't have much more power than the LSS S/C (+10hp, -20lb/ft). Plus, on the brief test-drive, the Aurora's more solid chasis might not be that apparent.
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    Yes, Blackfire is also a very nice product. But, Platinum does over a first step polish, in the form of a special pre-cleaner. So far, all we've found is that a Blackfire finish dulls slightly after a little while and starts to attract dust like a magnet. Serves as a great base for many carnubas, just like many other polymers.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Can you send me a link of a place that has the Platinum polish? I've never seen it. Would you choose Platinum over BF for a dark car? Mine is a dark red. Thanks Beach.
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    In actuality, I've never really used Blackfire myself, but am just going on fellow detailing results and opinions. But, I did make the choice to buy Platinum myself for a reason. So, in my personal opinion, on dark red, I'd go for the Platinum. It'll give you an amazingly 3D gloss, with great depth, lusterous and wet shine, terrific slickness and great durability. I put 6 coats of the UPP on our Avalanche over top of 6 coats of Klasse, and with a weekly washing with the Platinum wash and then spray and wipe of the Platinum gloss enhancer, it looks great and like new. I've tried other washes with the Platinum alond with Quick Detail sprays, and had less than stellar results. So, as a general rule of thumb, when a polish or wax manufacturer also makes a complimentary wash and gloss enhancer, they usually work the best. I particularly recommend the QD spray, as it is what brings back the original slickness and gloss after a wash.

    About the only small difference I can see between the Blackfire and Platinum is that while Blackfire has instant cure times, with Platinum, it's best to let it cure 15-30 minutes. I usually give 15 minutes, and it wipes off easier and to a better gloss than anything I've ever used. It's not all that much time, and you could be working on some other area for the 15 or so minutes anyway.

    Here's a great site specifically for the Platinum by the people who produce it:

    The owner is also a great person to talk to and can answer just about any question you'd have when it comes to car care. Good luck!

  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hey folks -- just wanted to remind you this isn't exactly a car detailing thread. ;-)

    There are some of those over in M&R, though, if any of you want to continue this.

    Sedans Host
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    Here are some links to the pics of Platinum on our black Avalanche:

    These are when it was first applied. #7-18 are with 5 coats, #24-27 are with 6:

    Here are some pics I took about a month later:

  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    Sorry, that last post will be the LAST I make!
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    But you can see how we arrived at this discussion. I guess we should have moved it into the care forum, but it does relate to Aurora's (mine!) It always seems awkward to have a discussion jump between forums. Will do next time, though! :)
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    I understand - no problem. As I said, let's just keep in mind the subject that it says up there at the top of the page. :)
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Javi - car looks good. You've got that wet look going.
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
  • Anyone know what the "componentster" is? The manual says to lubricate it every 2,500 miles. I've been meaning to buy the shop manual but haven't yet.

    Also, I have 12,000 miles on the car. Any comments on switching to Mobil 1 on the next oil change? Any comments on a good oil filter now that the AC high quality filter has been discontinued?
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    roc88ket88 - I use M1 oil. It's superior to regular stuff. Check out this web site.

    If you will keep it a long time and want to maintain perfect performance I'd use it. Otherwise regularly scheduled changes with regular oil are fine. M1 is going to cost you big with the 8 quart change. I do it myself and that has to save me at least $30 each time. The biggest difference is probably the flowability in the cold. It gives protection much quicker on cold start-ups. Also note that all synthetics are not created equal.

    Filter - the M1 filter is really good but again costly at about $12. I had my oil sampled and analyzed at the lab with almost 3000 miles using an M1 filter. The dirt level was very low. I just sent another in with about 3000 miles but used the Delco filter. I'll let everyone know what the results were and if there are any differences.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    There is no "chasis componentster" to lube. It was a carryover from the classic's maintenance schedule. The owner's manual makes no reference, the Service Manuals make no reference, and most importantly I've pulled the wheels off and there is nothing on there to lube. Like much of the Aurora website, it is wrong.

    I was able to buy a few ACDelco Ultraguard filters from my local Olds dealer. Call them and they might be able to find a few for you. I've always thought the regular Duraguards were pretty good, but I've no evidence to support it (I'm eagerly awaiting Garnes' findings). I agree that Mobil 1 is great. I went 1/2 and 1/2 Mobil 1 and Mobil regular for my first two changes (the first one at 800 miles) I guess because I didn't want anything to happen to the break-in (even though that is probably a wives-tale since many cars come from the factory with Mobil 1). In the future I'll be using straight Mobil 1. Actually, I'm pissed that I stocked up and now they have a new formula with "SuperSyn" which they tout as an anti-wear molecule...
  • aurora5000aurora5000 Posts: 168
    My service advisor told me basically the same thing about the componster applying to the Classic cars but he said you should spray the rubber mounts for the body with a light wt.lube or silicone spray to prevent squeaks.

    I use Mobil 1 oil and filter and use the "Oil Life Computer" for changes since it is set up on regular oil life, I feel I cannot go wrong.

    What's the average Oil Life from the Computer?
    7-8K ?
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    aurora5000 - I'd say you can't go wrong with that approach.

    RJS - I bought some of the "old" M1 just before the new stuff came out. I also had a few quarts from an earlier purchase. While changing oil (and using a white plastic funnel) I noticed some of the M1 oil was very dark looking against the white plastic. Other quarts produced lighter looking oil. Yes all were labeled 10-30. I wondered if they did not start putting the new stuff in the left over bottles with the old label. I called M1 and they said the new stuff is darker. Sure enough when I got the new stuff it's dark.

    So, maybe you have the supersynth in there. I really think they used the last of the old labels for awhile.
  • The black pain on my Classic wiper blade arms is fading. is it possible to remove these so I can paint them? Anybody know how to do it?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I've had good success in bring the black back on those with some Meguiar's Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner followed by some #7. The cleaner makes the biggest difference. I wax the black trim on my car to protect it because it's paint too. It is susceptible to fade and oxidation just like the body paint. I've noticed the #26 brings out a nice deep look to the black trim between the windows and behind the rear side windows. I use it on the wiper arms too. I haven't applied it to the sunroof trim on purpose, but it gets there whenever I wax the car...

    Garnes, that's interesting that the oil is darker. I wonder if it's the chemicals or if they are just responding to feedback that their oil is hard to see on the dipstick. It bothers me a little, but not enough to not use the old stuff. It is still good oil. Really, I doubt the new stuff is some gigantic improvement over the old stuff.

    Aurora5000, I trust the oil-life monitor too. It sounds like a good device. I see no reason that oil can't last longer than 3,000 miles. It definitely makes sense that it depends on the type of driving as much as it does the length of driving. I haven't actually let the monitor run down yet, but I got about 6,500 miles out of it the last time (I was going on a trip and didn't want to change it on the trip so I changed it early). At that point it had 28% remaining. So I would guess around 7000+ will be my norm. That's less than half as often as I changed the Corvette; so really the Mobil 1 isn't such a huge investment, even at 8 quarts a change.
  • I was told the oil-life monitor doesn't actually measure the viscosity of the oil, only driving habits. That means it doesn't matter what kind of oil you use. At least not to the guage.

    Incidentally, does the transmission fluid-life monitor ever go down? I have 60,000 miles on my Classic and it's still at 100%
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    On long trips I get about 70 or so miles for each percent change in the oil life. In summer driving - city cycle - I get about 4000 miles between changes. In winter driving I get about 3000 miles between changes - depending on how long it is real cold. I recently had the winter (5w-30) changed out for summer oil (10w-30) even though the oil monitor had not indicated it was time.

    The transmission monitor does not work. My owners manual says to change the oil at 50,000 mile intervals (unless you only do highway driving).
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I remember one of the high milage guys saying that it will eventually move off of 100%. I just don't remember when he said that would happen.

    I did my change at about 60,100 miles instead of 50,000 miles. The dealer did not think the 10,00 mile delay significant.

  • aurora5000aurora5000 Posts: 168
    I usually change mine around the 10-15K range. Maybe overkill but I have not had any Tranny problems using this method. I look at it as cheap insurance.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    My service manager said that they like to do it at 30,000 mile intervals. my car slipped through, but the book says every 50,000. I also have a whine/moan of some sort. Need to have that looked into. I looked at a grey market caddy and they drove my car and said the whine wasn't good. (the caddy dts was brought in from canada)
  • evilgrecoevilgreco Posts: 40
    Hey all, just wanted to drop a line saying that I have an extra Aurora Brookfield Model up for auction on Ebay for anyone that may be interested.

    Thanks! Mike

  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Aurora5000! 10-15K miles? Man, you sure aren't taking risks. Do you change the filter every time too? Taking the pan off is such a pain. I can't imagine doing that so frequently. How many quarts does it take from just a drain & refill? I assume you don't flush it if you do it that frequently?
  • larryfllarryfl Posts: 214
    I'm a big believer in transmission flushes as opposed to simply a drain and fill.

    I have the trans flushed every 35K miles (71000 this last time on my 95 classic. Previous owner had the trans "serviced" at 22000 miles and flushed at 42000 miles).

    I run regular premium 10w-30 oil in Florida, changing it every 3000 miles. Typically, that's almost twice for every time the DIC tells me to. Actually, on the 2nd 3000 mile interval it might start "reminding" me to change it for about 200 miles or so before I finally do it and reset it.

    BTW, I did have my trans fluid Life monitor actually fall off the 100% at around 65000 miles, to a big 99%. Optimistically, I reset it when I had the trans flushed 6K miles later.

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