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Oldsmobile Aurora

16566687071112

Comments

  • javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    After doing the install of the aftermarket radio, no I did not loose my steering wheel horn, but yeah I did loose the climate controls and cruise controls on the steering wheel, sucks but, I'll live.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    I had it done at Discount Tires (where I bought my new MXV4's). They did not charge because I was having problems from the first mile. However, they said it usually costs $15/wheel. Some Goodyear places have them. They were talking $150 +/- for all four.

    Since I had it done, all is smooth as glass. The Aurora seems to be extremely sensitive all right.

    I've never heard of the OEM tires being of a different quality than the same tire purchased from a tire place.
  • fdionfdion Member Posts: 59
    Just a note to say that after going past 28,000 miles recently (and 2 years of ownership approaching in a few months), I still got a smile getting in my 2001 Aurora v8. I've been very satisfied with it. It's a shame that next june is the end of the Aurora. I guess it'll just make a better deal for me when I buy my second (my wife loves the car and that's a problem, she wants to do all the driving!).

    The car still looks great, easy to spot in the parking lot and still turns quite a bit of heads. I see people starring at the car all the time. Particularly at rest areas or in parking lots. I got some great pictures of the car on the blue ridge parkway, I'll try to scan them when I get them developped.

    Speaking of the blue ridge parkway, I've completed a few trips with the aurora including a 16 hours drive on my way back from Montreal, QC (I'm in the piedmont triad of North Carolina). I only saw 2 2k1+ Aurora while in Montreal and Quebec city, both were black. A lot more classics to be seen. Averaged 26 mpg on the highway. Around town it dropped quite a bit like always, but at least it stayed above 20.

    I've had an issue with the fan, turns out the papers were getting sucked out of the glovebox! I've also had to drop the car at the dealer for an issue with the steering rack. They got us a Maxima (at a GM dealer!?) What is funny (or sad) is that the service guys at the Olds/Caddy dealer were drooling over that new maxima. Both my wife and I were thoroughly unimpressed with this very plasticky car and were glad to get our Aurora back.

    I've also kept the car away from the dealer since then and haven't had any issue since then. I do the greasing, oil and filter (oil, air and dont forget the pollen filter too) changes and let a regular garage do the tire rotations.

    I've installed a hitch on the car. It's a "hidden hitch", seems like it was made for the Lesabre, so installation was a tight fit on the Aurora. The instructions are not that great so if any of you have any questions let me know.

    It's a class II with a receiver which is great for accessories. I've set up a platform, a bike rack etc. In fact I've been to Tennessee with me, my wife, our 2 girls, 4 bikes and the trunk full and didn't even feel (handling) or notice (weight) or hear anything and I almost forgot I had the bikes behind the car. Averaged about 25 mpg on that trip with AC on and 97 degrees outside.

    Ciao,
    Francois
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    fdion - Thanks for the post. But don't you know that "plasticy" is something only true of American cars?? What's the matter with you? You should know that such talk is blasphemy of a maxima or any Japanese car.

    I hear you. The Aurora is pretty incredible - especially at it's price point.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Thanks for the great post, and for sharing your impressions with us. It really is a great car. I've heard about that glove-box/HVAC problem. That's really bizarre/funny!
  • fdionfdion Member Posts: 59
    Yes the price point is definitely part of the equation. I can put a corsa and a lot more stuff on the car with the money I saved.

    RJS: It was an easy fix, but I must say I was a bit surprised to have that problem. Also, you might be interested in the post I submitted to the modifications page as I've noticed both of you are interested in performance. Do you know of any source for some used aurora aixbox? :)

    Francois
  • webescapeewebescapee Member Posts: 3
    My 96 Aurora's parking light's flash like a disco strobe light when the car is parked there is also a clicking sound coming from the dash.I believe it is the lighting control module(body control module)Has anyone had this problem and what was the resolution?
  • mindseye97mindseye97 Member Posts: 25
    My 97 does the same on occasion. The board suggested it may be heat/humidity and I believe that is the case. It does not seem consistent enough to mess with the relay in the dash yet- but if the battery ever gets drained much you can bet it's time to start tearing into it!
  • sinatra2sinatra2 Member Posts: 65
    Try taking off the panel below the steering column and spray some anti-grease solution too clean the contacts on the light switch. This should cure it. I have had the same problem and the dealer wanted $480.00CA for a switch and 2 hours to replace it. In 45 minites I had it solved myself using this method.
  • gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    I had to buy 3 so far in the past 4 years. Of course you have to go get these at the dealer at around $40 bucks each.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    This past weekend I took a 845 mile trip with five people in a 2002 Caddie SLS Avis rental with abut 5,800 miles on it. My humble opinion is that this is a very good car. To start, let me be fair by saying that I did not do much driving with only me in the car.

    I found acceleration to be good and better than my 95. I got 24.5 avg mpg withthe air on for the whole trip. This was very impressive as it matched my Aurora mpg, but was achieved with regular gas verses using premium in the "Aa".

    I found the suspension on my Aa to be better than the SLS. However, this is not a fair statement on the SLS. My 95 has been modified with thicker Caddie sway bars, KYB struts and Z rated tires. If I were driving a stock 95, the SLS would have taken the Aa.

    The one BIG disappointment about eh car was the roar of the engine. The SLS was a wimp in this department. The 95 Classic is a true aROARa when I hit the gas. The SLS sound was not as deep or "masculine" sounding. I would take the sound of my Aa over the SLS any day of the week.

    Overall a good car. I would want to see the STS. However, I would not buy a Caddie before the new STS is out. The current STS looks dated. The STS looks even more "Olds" when you see it parked next to the CTS.

    Overall opinion, nice car and a worth a consideration if you are in the $45k territory. However, I would only lease the car because I would not want to be stuck with the old body style when the car is overhauled in 2 years. Its no Aa Classic whenit comes to looks.

    Henri
  • mariposarosadamariposarosada Member Posts: 54
    Is there a fuse for the horn in the Classic? It stopped working, and I thought I'd check that out before going to the dealer. The owners manual lists three fuse panels, none of which appears to have a fuse for the horn. Thanks.
  • shucknetshucknet Member Posts: 98
    Look on ebay for center caps. I have gotten plenty off of there before. Usually about $10 each or so.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    yeah, I got them at a local hub cap place for $20 (when I still had the original wheels). Call around.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    My 98 Aurora has a new power steering pump. There has been a whine for quite a while and had gotten worse. Now the car is dead quite again. They broke the pulley and so it took longer. Service manager confirmed that the 3800 front wheel drives are much easier and cheaper to work on. They had to undo the radiator to get to the power steering. Told me that to do the A/C or generator they have to come up from the bottom. I think RWD is probably a much better design for larger cars (or at least V8s).
  • fdionfdion Member Posts: 59
    Anybody checked this link with their VIN?


    GM calibration lookup


    One of the item that comes up on mine is this:

    calid# 12573568, 12574745 new calibration to correct false setting of dtc p0327


    That means Knock Sensor (KS) 1 Circuit


    I wonder if that's not a way of saying, "the guy who assembled the car overtorqued the sensor, so let's make it less sensitive"...


    :)


    Francois

  • lobstermanlobsterman Member Posts: 31
    HAD WATER PUMP AND A/C COMPRESSOR REPLACED WED. STARTED LEAKING DEXCOOL ONE WEEK AGO. A/C WAS BLOWING WARM ON DRIVER'S SIDE AND COLD ON PASSENGER SIDE IN MAY. DEALER COULDN'T FIND ANY LEAKS AND PUT DYE IN SYSTEM. STARTED TO BLOW WARM LAST WEEK AGAIN. DEALER STILL COULDN'T FIND LEAK SO THEY REPLACED THE COMPRESSOR. NOW HAVE 87610 MILES. BILL WAS $1531 OF WHICH I PAID $237 FOR HOSES,BELTS, ETC. WARRANTY GOLD PAID THE REST. STILL LIKE MY CAR. TOOK OFF OLD WINDOW TINT LAST WEEK, WAS REALLY CRAPPY. ANY SUGGESTION FOR REPLACEMENT? REALLY NEED TINT HERE IN FLA.
  • dlcleavdlcleav Member Posts: 40
    After 5 tries with the A/C compressor combined with the incessant "chirping" noise, I sold my '98 Diamond White Classic. This was really tough to do since this was my second Aurora. I just couldn't chance any further repair bills (I neglected to purchase the extended warranty) and the inability of the service techs to diagnose and repair the car. I really went the opposite direction this time and purchased an '02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland. Thanks for all the tips provided on this site. Dave
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    Once agin we have had the "What do I look for in buying an Aurora?" question asked (see accleration board).

    Pat, this question has been ansered so many times in the past. I have a suggestion.

    There was a very detailed answer given to thsi question a coupe of posts back along with some supplementary posts that followed that one big one. Sorry I don't rememeber who actually made the detailed posting. Can we copy or move that answer to the "What did you Pay" board? that thread does not get a lot of posts and it would be a lot easier to refer folks to that posting on that board rather than to constantly repeat it here or elsewhere.

    What do you think Pat/Gang???

    Henri
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    I posted the quite-extensive list, a hundred or more messages back, and there was some ensuing discussion. I can't find it without scrolling back through all of these messages, though. One thing these boards could use is a much, much better search engine (i.e. if I wanted to find "force balance" going back through almost 3500 messages, it would take me all day, and I don't have the attention span, much less the time, to do this :-)

    --Robert
  • shifty4shifty4 Member Posts: 53
    One of the posts you are looking for is 3289. When I find a really useful post such as this I print it off. Then the only problem is finding it in the piles of paper in my office.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Henri, that's a good idea -- if you (or anyone else) can find the message(s), all you have to do is copy and paste it/them into that discussion.

    :)
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I looked at your posting #3289 and it refers to JonB's posting which I think is the one I am talking about. I remember adding things to the list after I read it. I guess the search continues for the "Buying the Aurora" post.

    Henri
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
  • ewtewt Member Posts: 127
    "Told me that to do the A/C or generator they have to come up from the bottom. I think RWD is probably a much better design for larger cars (or at least V8s). "

    I did the alternator on my former 96, and it was no fun at all. It probably took me about 5 hours with air tools (although they weren't that helpful since most of the fasteners can't be reached with them). Several of the bolts are very difficult to get to. There was one bolt behind the exhaust manifold I couldn't get back in because I could just barely get a wrench on it to remove it. The guy at the parts counter told me their techs drop the whole motor/tranny/front subframe to swap them.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I am heavily leaning towards the Yokohamas Z rated tires.

    Any information on how these perform in the snow and rain.
  • hardestyhardesty Member Posts: 166
    Almost too late, but the powertrain site has finally been updated to include specs for the current (and final) version of the 4.0L V8 motor. They have a very nice photo of the engine and the best view of the HP/torque curve yet. Looks like the new 4.0 produces about 190 lb-ft at idle! This may explain why published times for 0-30mph are 3.0 seconds. From my expierence, the one thing that slows the 0-60 time is the 1-2 shift (naturally tuned for comfort, not performance). Maybe if GM had improved on the shift select button instead of deleting it, we would have seen reviewers eyes open up.

    This new curve does not drop off as much at the high end as previous views seemed to, but the view is still somewhat crude.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    That's the same power curve they sent me. I guess they added the Aurora V8 since they seem to have redone the site. I don't know why the hell they didn't put it there back when Olds was still in business, though. I'm glad to see they didn't group it in with the Northstar.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    Powertrain's site was for model year 2000 before, and since the Aurora was not in production in model year 2000, they did not include it. I would guess that the next update will take another 2 years (2004 model year - just as the 2005 models are about to go on sale?).
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I am leaning back towards the Hankook "T" rated tires. Is a T rating better than an H?
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    is about as slow as there is. ~110 MPH max
  • fdionfdion Member Posts: 59
    You didn't say how much you wanted to spend.

    On the 16" rims I'd go with some Pirelli P6000 (not veloce, just P6000) ZR, tire rack has them on special at $86 each, altough I think the Michelin MXV4+ are really the best in that price range but in H rated. More comfortable and silent than the P6000.

    If you want the best performance, get some 17" rims or 18" rims, and put some Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, no question. They will set you back > $200 each tough.

    Francois
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    afterall. Based on the reviews of the Michelins I saw on Tire rack I dont think I can justify the additional costs of the HR or Z rated tires from Michelin.

    I am very much interested in snow traction and nuting was there about the Michelins. I could get 2 sets of Yokos for each set of michs.

    Next stop might be the ETD tire store.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    afterall. Based on the reviews of the Michelins I saw on Tire rack I dont think I can justify the additional costs of the HR or Z rated tires from Michelin.

    I am very much interested in snow traction and nuting was there about the Michelins. I could get 2 sets of Yokos for each set of michs.

    Next stop might be the ETD tire store.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    Once again when I turn my key the car pauses for about 1 second and then starts. I had replaced the starter only to have the problem come back after a month.

    I went to the dealer and her confirmed my worst nightmare. It will not be until the car does not start at all, that they will be able to find the problem.

    I am taking a trip that requires a ferry ride. Any bets that the car won't start when it comes time to take it off the ferry???

    I figure that after getting stuck in the Holland tunnel under the Hudson River, the ferry is the next logical water crossing debacle.
  • mariposarosadamariposarosada Member Posts: 54
    Just installed the wood dash kit on my classic. Looks great. A little darker than OEM, but not much. I have two pieces left, however. They're for controls where the power door lock, lumbar, and heated seats are located. The kit came with a set for without heated seats, which are the ones I used.

    Anyway, just thought someone might want the ones that fit the optional heated seat controls. E-mail me if you do. I'll drop them in the mail.

    badboy@psu.edu
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Sorry Henri, I've got no advice for you. But your post about starting did remind me of some observations I've made. A few times when I've started the car, I've just barely turned the key to the "start" position and let it go. When I've done it, it wasn't intentional (I flubbed it), and I expected the car to just crank a little and not catch. However, what I've noticed is that the car cranks the same amount it always does and starts right up. It cranked for more than I held it. I guess that there is some computer interaction in turning the starter, and not like in most cars where the starter is just hooked to the ignition cylinder. It just happens that usually the car stops cranking at the same time I release the key from the "start" position. I also tested the starter-override thing by trying to start the car once it was already running (this was on purpose, not a flub) and it worked. However, the dash goes dark and then all the lights come on again just like it does when you first start it. But there is no starter grinding or anything. The override could just be some interrupt between the ignition cylinder and the starter, but I guess it makes more sense to just have the computer handle it all. So you just tell the computer you want the car started by twisting the key, and it does it all for you. Pretty neat...

    Also, I really love the way the car tucks in at the center of the sides. It isn't that noticeable when you look at the sheetmetal on my car (perhaps because of my particular color), but in a parking lot you can see the reflection of the white lines curve in a gentle arc. It really looks awesome. There are really a lot of subtle curves to the car that together make it really attractive, and I love how they work with the hard creases in the body.

    I've really been appreciating the exhaust note lately. It sounds so awesome. I've been thinking again about the Corsa, and I hope it doesn't turn it into too much of a muscle-car sound. I've been listening to that Caddy clip more, and it is hard to distinguish it from some of the Camaro and Corvette clips. I guess I'll just have to try it, though. That's the only way I'll really know.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I dont know if its an obsession but every time we talk about the car's body, it sounds like we are describing a woman. I would say a man's body but aside from Pat, there are no women on this board.

    Just an observation.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Hey Francois, have you ever hooked up the OBD-II scanner while the car does its cold-start routine? You know, where it runs at about 1200 rpm for about 20 seconds to warm up the cats and then the idle drops very intentionally to about 750-800 rpm? Aurora5000 has noticed that is seems like the car is misfiring during that time, and I've noticed that the engine definitely runs rougher and it vibrates more. Once it drops to the normal idle, it's smooth as silk. I wonder if it intentionally misfires a cylinder to put fuel in the exhaust or something to warm up the cats quicker? Although, intuitively I'd think fuel in the exhaust would cool the cats since it would basically spray them down. I wouldn't think it would burn in the exhaust since the exhaust isn't hot yet. But I have no idea. Just wondering if you've shed any light on it with the OBD-II.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    mariposarosada:

    Nice of you to offer your extra parts. I can't use them though.

    Which kit (brand) did you install? Did you consider other ones?

    Light the Rockets!
  • javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    Hey nice of you to offer them parts from your wooddash kit, too bad I can't use them. Oh by the way check me out at www.cardomain.com I'm under JAVIDOGG's Aurora. Peace.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Henry,

    I think the shape of the Aurora body is supposed to be somewhat feminine. At least the Classic ,viewed from the top, the car appears to have the "hourglass" shape (shoulders, waist, hips), moreso than most other cars.

    Of course, viewed from the front, the "Russian cruise missile" is a bit more muscular/masculine.

    But then, there's the name. Aurora, "Goddess of the Dawn". That pretty much clinches it right there...

    Just my 10 cents (inflation),

    --Robert
  • mariposarosadamariposarosada Member Posts: 54
    My classic hood needs to be repainted. The paint is cracking, and it's beginning to look awful. I heard somewhere that this hood is aluminum. Is this true, and is there any additional difficulty in repainting aluminum as opposed to steel? Thanks.
  • mike98cmike98c Member Posts: 293
    Toyo.com has the number of revcolutions per mile for each of there tire fitments. A rough guide if you wonder how much a plus one or two tire and wheel upgrade will affect your speedometer or effective gearing.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Last night I was driving with my wife up in the hills of West Virginia when a classic Aurora pulled out ahead of us. We drove behind it for a ways and were checking it out. It was a beautiful dark green color. I was really admiring how great looking it was. It has much more of a muscular stance than the new Aurora. The way the wheels look set very wide and the body curves out around them is really great. It even got my wife to stop hating the back (she really disliked that full-length reflector, and once she doesn't like something, forget it). So this was quite a compliment. In fact, it even got her asking what the interior was like on it (she loves the new interior and pretty much dismisses any other ones). This of course got me describing it, and got me really wanting to take a test drive. I think she'd really be interested in test-driving one too. I was even tempted to miss our turn so we could drive behind it a bit longer. It really was beautiful. Both of the Aurora's are really cars that you appreciate more the more you look at them. The more you study the design and shape, the more you see the little things that make the shape so beautiful. However, it's definitely a different beauty between the classic and the new. Maybe we need to make some room in our stable for one of each...

    P.S. I got about 26.7 mpg in back-road hilly driving at around 50mph. Mostly 55mph driving with some areas slowing to 25 or so. I was pretty impressed.

    P.P.S. The headlights are really excellent on the Aurora. The low-beam is so perfect in it's shape, and the high-beams are just so damn bright. Very helpful on those dark country roads in WV.
  • mvalentamvalenta Member Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    I own a 96 olds aurora. recently it has developed a hard starting problem. I'll turn the key, the starter will operate, but the engine just won't turn over right away. It usually takes between 4 and 8 seconds for the engine to catch and start running. During this time, the tachometer indicates very low idle speed when it first starts, around 200 or so. then the engine surges and rests around 650-700 as normal. once the engine is started the car runs like a top. Lots of power, no hesitation, nothing. The only problem is the hard starting condition.

    I thought i had a bad tank of gas so i used it all up and put in a fresh tank of high octane fuel. didn't seem to help. Neither did adding a chemical to get rid of water in the tank.

    My mechanic (whom i trust very much) has replaced the following:
    spark plugs (8)
    spark plug wires
    fuel filter
    EIC motor (think thats what it was called)
    battery (normal maintenance)

    In addition, he also cleaned my throttle body per a TSB by GM.

    There are no engine codes when hooked up to a scanner. its almost as if the engine is not getting enough air/fuel. If i turn the engine off right away, i can start it easy the next time. If i let the car sit for a while (~30+ minuteS), i'll have the same starting problem.

    I'm looking for serious suggestions here - THough i love the car, i'm on the verge of just selling it because its been over a week now and we can't figure out what is posessing this car. Nothing more embarrasing that trying to start a ~$40,000 car with no success.

    Have any of you had this problem? If so, what did you do to fix it. ANy suggestions?

    Please email me mario@rpaelectronics.com as well as post on the message board.

    I appreciate any/all help that you can provide.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    Have the fuel pressure regulator checked to see if its leaking.
  • larryfllarryfl Member Posts: 214
    with fjk57702.

    My '95 also had a slow starting problem after the car had sat for an extended period of time (overnight). The Fuel pressure regulator was the culprit. It's apparently a fairly common problem with these cars as they get older and it's not very expensive to fix. The dealership replaced mine for about $ 200 +,-.
  • musclecar97musclecar97 Member Posts: 111
    RJS - Find a '99classic on a lot and let your wife drive one, the car will take care of itself.

    thump, thump, thump
    another one bites the dust
    thump, thump, thump
    another one gone, and another one gone,
    another one bites the dust

    2 different body styles in one driveway...classic!
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