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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • sgttoddsgttodd Posts: 4
    Glad to see that your truck is running better.
    You have to buy a new one fuel filter (about $20), you can't clean the old one out and reuse it. You don't have to drain your fuel tank when you change your fuel filter. Your best bet is to put down something like an oil drip pan and have rags ready so when the connections are loosened the gasoline will drip into the pan, and once the fuel filter is disconnected that will be full of fuel as well. Overall you can expect about a couple cups of gas to come out of the lines and filter.
    Easiest way to change the filter is to loosen the two nut couplings on each side of the filter. Then take out the screw in the butterfly connection (the metal object that goes around the actual filter to hold it in place. Then disconnect the fuel line brackets that hold the line in place on each side of the filter. This way you can munipulate the fuel lines to disconnect then from the fittings that connect it to the fuel filter. Then fully disconnect the fuel line from the filter and wrestle with them to get them out of the filter. They were a little tough for me so I would probably disconnect the fuel line from more than just one bracket on either side to give the fuel line more play, this should ease getting the lines in and out of the fuel filter. Make sure when putting in the new filter to pay attention to which way you put it in, it says on the actual filter which side is the intake side, the side that goes to the rear of the vehicle. Ther other hard time I had was getting the bolt back in the butterfly connection because it so short and the connection is under pressure. I advise that you use a vise grips to clamp the connection together to leave your hands free to deal with the getting the bolt in. Other than it's a piece of cake.
    Again I advise cleaning out your throttle body, it's easy and made the most difference for me when my truck was acting up.

    Good Luck and let me know how it goes.
  • riverrat1riverrat1 Posts: 12
    If I may add, on past cars/trucks, a pretty easy job, but I haven't changed one yet that I didn't have gas run down my arms. Gotta love that...
  • dougfirdougfir Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Tacomma 4x4 xtracab 2.7L 4-cyl with ~120kmiles. When the engine gets hot I have serious starting problems. No problem when cold. Basically, when starting after engine is hot, the engine just spins and does not ignite untill it has cooled off. It can take 30 minutes to get it going sometimes. Once its going, it runs great and has no problems at all. Its not the battery or starter. I replaced the plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, battery terminals, and fuel filter. The check engine light has never come on and the computer was tested. I was told it could be a faulty "ignitor coil" under the distributor cap not sending a spark to the plugs. One time, when it was hot and wouldnt start, I pulled a wire off a plug and held it against the engine block while a friend tried starting the engine and there was indeed a spark. So it sounds like the ignitor coild is not the problem. I have asked about 10 mechanics and they say "it could be 20 different things, just leave it with us" (which sounds expensive) Also they cant test it unless is hot and malfunction, which is really intermittant. Any suggestions? Please help!
  • My 1996 Tacoma 4x4 had a slight rubbing sound coming from the left tire. It eventually got worse and now sound louder. It sounds as if something metal is rubbing but there is nothing visually that stands out when I look behind the tire. The problem is considerbly worse when I cut my wheel to the left. The harder I cut the worse the sound gets. Do any of you Toya experts know what this might be and how to address the problem? Any help would be appreciated!

    Bill
    N.Y.
  • seattle7seattle7 Posts: 4
    How do you clean out the throttle body. My 00 Tacoma pre-runner V6 is having serious problems with idling and hesitation. I cleaned out the MAF and still nothing, same problems just getting worse. I will changed the fuel filter and spark plugs on Mon., but wanted to also go ahead and clean out the throttle body while I'm at it. Hopefully this will fix my problems. Man, I thought when I bought my truck, I was getting a great quality truck, but this has not proven so.
  • seattle7seattle7 Posts: 4
    My 00' Tacoma pre-runner V6 / auto - is in serious trouble. At 83K miles it started idling rough and shake badly at 50MPH, now its getting worse, The engine is not shifting out of O/D and is really weak. Please anyone, give me some advise as to the next step.
  • seattle7seattle7 Posts: 4
    I am so mad. Cleaned the MAF, what next?
  • toytrucktoytruck Posts: 67
    >My 00 Tacoma pre-runner V6 is having serious problems with idling and hesitation.<>

    You said you changed the plugs. Make sure all of them are working. Pull one plug wire at a time.
  • gdwtch1969gdwtch1969 Posts: 15
    I have 2004 Tacoma V6 with 8000 miles on it.I am loosing coolant out of reservoir everyday.I have no leaks externally.Any idea what this might be?Also when the truck is at idle water is coming out of tailpipe.Is this normal for Tacoma's? Also heat is not blowing heat out of all vents.All heating an a/c controls are working just fine , just not blowing the air out like it used to.And yes my vents are open.Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • toytrucktoytruck Posts: 67
    Stil under warranty--take to the dealer.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    If the MIL light is blinking, it's indicating a prblm code (DTC) is stored in the computer memory. If you know someone with an OBDII code reader (I have one, but am FAR from Seattle) get them to plug it in, read the code(s) and find the likely source of prblm. (I say likely, because the code will indicate the component(s) that are the likely source of the sensed error the computer is reading.) The code can be looked up in the reader's manual or at www.codereader.com

    If you don't know someone with a reader, many autoparts shops have them and will (if you can wait til there's nobody waiting for help at the counter) plug it in to your vehicle and read you the codes.

    Alternatively, the OBDII readers can be had for about $100.
    The downside is that the systems are again in transition (initial systems went to OBDI, then OBDII in 1996 and newer, now moving to OBDII CAN), so a simple OBDII may not work with 2005 and newer vehicles (as I just found out with my 2005 Taco).

    Good luck
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    Losing coolant is not normal. Nor having no heat.

    However, the water from the exhaust may be. We burn hydrocarbon fuels. Ideally, the carbon combines with oxygen to make CO2, the hydrogen with oxygen to make H2O (water). In a system at full operating temperature under moderate conditions, these exit as gases (carbon dioxide and water vapor- steam). However, when the exhaust system is cold, some of the water vapor will condense in the exhaust and may make it's way out the exhaust pipe before the system warms enough for it to evaporate again.

    In warm weather, with the system good and warmed up, you should not have liquid water coming from the exhaust.

    Lost coolant could be from a number of external leaks that may not be large enough to show on the garage floor. Telltale traces of a crusty residue may show up. It is not uncommon to find this at the ends of hoses that weep a little, or around the thermostat housing or water pump, or even at gaskets on the block, intake manifold, etc. Another possibility is leakage in the heater core (heat exchanger in the air handler of your heater). Maybe a small leak in the radiator (look for traces on the fins). And of course, you could have a leaking gasket or warped/cracked head or the like that would allow coolant to enter the engine, either the combustion chamber or the crankcase.

    Check you oil level. Do you see it RISING day to day instead of remaining stable or falling? If so, it's likely you have coolant leaking into the crankcase. This needs to be dealt with IMMEDIATELY. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap. Start the engine, allow it to get to operating temperature. Do you see bubbles (like exhaust) coming out the radiator? (The point is to see if the water jacket is leaking into the combustion chambers. If so, on the power stroke, the higher pressure of the gasses in the cylinder will blow into the water jacket, eventually making their way to the radiator.)

    In any event, I would bring it to a dealer if still under warranty.
  • tracontracon Posts: 4
    A friend tells me it's possible to convert the standard rear on my 2005 2WD tacoma to a limited slip through either a transmission shop or the dealer for about $300 bucks. Is this possible? (4 cylinder, 5-spd)
    Any input would be appreciated!
    -Tracon
  • vwoatechvwoatech Posts: 1
    The Honda Rigeline is not a Truck it is a SUT, trucks have a bed separated from the cab ,I will agree its a nice SUT but is pretty much a Honda Pilot. I hope you got white its a good color for that SUT.
  • keefykeefy Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 2WD base model Tacoma with a similar problem: If you turn off the engine when the temperature is above 80°F and the engine is at operating temperature, the engine will not start until it sits for 20-30 minutes. Otherwise, it works fine.
  • seattle7seattle7 Posts: 4
    Thanks, I do have several friends with OBD's. The codes were 301 303 304, all misfires in different pistons. I changed all the spark plugs, fuel filter and the maf sensor. I runs better but still have some problems when I hit the accellerator hard on the freeway. I am going to try and clean out the egr. Does anyone know how to do this. I think its an air problem, not a fuel problem. I ran the car with no air filter for a while. Forgot to put it in after checking it once and I think its dirty somewhere. Any suggestions anyone? Thanks for all your help everyone.
  • l5504l5504 Posts: 8
    Hey. I have a simaler problem. Under normal acelleraton it runs fine. But when I mash on it "Hesitation". This happens in Park, Neutral or Drive. The higher the RPMs the less it hesitates. It, as best as I can tell, kicks into passing gear just fine. The computer throws no codes. I'm thinking it might be the fuel pump. Check out mt other postings for more imfo. Good luck. l5504 (2000 Tacoma)
  • labman2labman2 Posts: 1
    jimmer,
    I recently bought a 2005 Toyota Tacoma TRD V6 6 speed. I am also having problems with the transfer case. It started with making a grinding noise going into 4 high and would not go into 4 low at all. 4 low light would blink and buzzer would sound, but it would not engage. After four trips to the dealer--the actuator and the transfer case have been replaced. It still will not go into 4 low. Just wondering what you have found out with this similar problem. Have other owners of the 2005 Tacoma ran the truck in 4 low????Any problems???
  • drathardrathar Posts: 7
    I have a 2005 Tacoma TRD V6 6 speed. I have used 4 low several times. It is kinda touchy getting into 4 low, but I have not experienced any problems. I have noticed that it has to be engaged in 4 high before going to 4 low. Sounds like the dealer has some more work to do.
  • alrobalrob Posts: 2
    Hi. very glad to have found this group. Is there anything new regarding the tacoma front end recall? I read it was to start on july 15th but have not read anything since.
  • alrobalrob Posts: 2
    Forgive me if this is stupid, but is the transmission in neutral?
  • drathardrathar Posts: 7
    Yes, what is your point?
  • gdwtch1969gdwtch1969 Posts: 15
    Misillbe,
    You had replied about my heat and coolant on my Tacoma.I am having some major issues with this truck.Could you please send me your e-mail address.I would really like to talk to you.I am not understanding much about the heat exchanger.But I do have some very important questions that maybe you could help me with.I would appreciate any advice you can give me.

    gdwtc[email protected]
  • gdwtch1969gdwtch1969 Posts: 15
    Can anyone tell me the original spark plugs on a 2004 Tacoma V6 3.4 Liter
  • twain220twain220 Posts: 2
    For over a year now, my 2.4L (240K miles) has been idling high, tough to start and more recently billowing black smoke. I've been through 4 mechanics, including the dealership, without an answer. I've changed the fuel filter, cleaned the contacts on the air flow sensor (I have a KN air filter), cleaned the injectors, replaced the fuel pressure regulator and no codes show up on anyone's computer. There is no vaccuum leak. I'm scared to bring it to a mechanic again but it's getting worse, and I was wondering if anyone had any ideas (other than sell my truck) for solving this problem. I've read that this could be attributed to an IAC valve, O2 sensor, timing and an egr valve (?)...my question is this: should I just buy one sensor at a time as a hopeful gamble? If so, which one would you recommend first? I'd trade my girlfriend to have this problem corrected. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

    Sincerely,

    Mississippi Twain
  • soljah13soljah13 Posts: 3
    I need help. I'm in the Army stationed in Germany. I bought a 2005 Tacoma Doublecab, 4x4, automatic transmission, w/ TRD Off-Road Package (U.S. specs) here when I returned from Iraq earlier this year. When I am driving at high speeds (autobahn) I hear a whistling sound coming from my dashboard. It makes a sound not unlike when you put a sheet of paper between your lips and blow (only louder). Does anyone else have this problem or know what the fix is? I would really appreciate any help from anyone. I can provide any additional info needed. Thanks in advance.
  • wparker1wparker1 Posts: 13
    Well I finally ordered my new Tachoma Double Cab Prerunner yesterday. The dealer says it will arrive next Thursday. I am a newbie here so would like to hear from anyone who has same vehicle as mine. I ordered the SR5 #3 package with optional wheels (16 inch) and chrome step bars on sides. Color is Impulse Red Pearl with Graphite upholstery. I sure hope this was a good decision as I plan to keep it for at least five years. Has anyone ever put dual exhuasts on one of these with the V6 before?? :blush:
  • bjw1bjw1 Posts: 152
    i have the same truck, but with no running boards, same color, i have close to 8000 miles and no problems, bought it in feb, i am thinking of adding running boards, or other extras but have not dedcided yet, i really enjoy driving this thing, hope you enjoy it just as much.
  • wparker1wparker1 Posts: 13
    I got the running boards because my wife who is short couldn't get into it without them. I had same problem with a Dodge Dakota that I used to own and found that the side steps really help getting in and out. Is it true you need to run premium gas in it?? :blush:
  • costa06costa06 Posts: 1
    I have a '97 2.7 4x4. I recently replaced the rear shocks only to find that I was sent 2x4 parts...not 4x4 but I already have the shocks in the truck. I also put an add a leaf in the rear. The truck handeles so porley that I don't even drive it. The rear tires skip off the ground durring acceleraion. It there a huge difference etween 2 and 4 wheel drive shocks...and do I need to take the add a leafs out?
  • bjw1bjw1 Posts: 152
    you dont need to run premium gas but for top preformance you do, i use 89 and still get 19 mpg in city, and only spend and extra $1.50 to fill up.
  • twain220twain220 Posts: 2
    Ok, idling turns to normal when the mass air flow sensor is disconnected, but it has no power...since I reconnected it, it hasn't acted up yet but the check engine light is on...how funny.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    ...and the Rules of the Road (link at the top of the page), please DO NOT put email addresses in your posts. They will be deleted!

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • 4xboys4xboys Posts: 2
    I wish I could offer some advice, but I'm looking for the same. I have a '95 Tacoma with the 2.4L engine... Same problem. Ti will start cold EVERY time, without fail. Only when the engine is hot does it intermittently have trouble starting. I've found that if I keep trying while varying gas pedal position, etc I can usually get it going but it's pretty rough right at first. Then everything is fine. BTW, I know that you should never apply gas to a fuel injected engine, but when you're stuck in a parking lot with someplace to go, you will try almost anything.

    I had a friend who runs an Oil change place scan the engine even though no check engine light had come on... just in case (obviously there was nothing there). I'm to the point where I'd gladly take it in, but how would they diagnose it? Now I need a battery 'cause I've drained this one trying to start it when the engine is hot. Not sure what the next course of action is. If you've had any luck, let me know and I'll do the same if I figure mine out.

    Thanks,
    Dad of 4 Boys!
  • goofballgoofball Posts: 20
    It sounds like a possible vapor lock issue. Vapor lock is when the fuel lines get too hot and cause the fuel to boil in the lines, creating vapor bubbles that fuel injection and carburetion systems don't deal well with. Check and make sure that your fuel lines aren't too close to the engine, exhaust headers or any other portion of the exhaust system, some of the retaining pins/clips may have broken due to age. Make sure that any areas where the fuel lines have to run near hot components are covered with a heat resistant reflective insulation (I don't remember off the top of my head what it's called but places like AutoZone/Napa should sell it in sheets or rolls).
  • tylermtylerm Posts: 1
    :( hi i have a 96 toyota tacoma and it ran great from 96 till 2005 but last week i heard this rattling sound when im in a idol. when i give it gas it is fine but when in sitting at a lite or at home or something it rattles i took it to 3 garages and the couldn't find out what it was. can anybody help me plllleeeeaaaasssseeeeeee!! i don't wanna have to go get another truck and have another truck payment i just got this one payed off :lemon:
  • 4xboys4xboys Posts: 2
    Thanks for the tip. I know there are a bit more fuel lines near the engine since the fuel filter is located under the injection stuff, and the bracket for the filter is mounted to the engine. So... you bring up a great point. I'll look into insulating those lines better.

    Thanks Again,
    Dad of 4 Boys!
  • wparker1wparker1 Posts: 13
    HI guys,
    I'm new here and need some older heads advice about my new Tachoma. Its a 4X2 Double Cab Prerunner SR5 model. Its is Impulse Red and my wife loves it. I want to change a few things and dont know how.:
    1.Can you rewire the fog lights so the switch controls them intead of them only coming on with head lights??
    2. Do you absolutley have to use premium fuel or can you mix 89/92 occasionally??
    3. I am ordering a Leer Cap for the bed cover and wonder if anyone else has tried this company or thieir products??
    I'm also interseted in after market exhaust products for this truck. Has anyone put dual exahusts on one of these trucks and what kind, how did it work, etc.
    Appreciate all advice as I want a nice looking and nice sounding truck but not exotic!
    I
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    If you do a search for "fog lights" in the forums for the Tacoma, you should find some instructions for how to enable the fogs to work without the headlights being on.

    You can use 87 octane, just with slightly less performance. (5-10hp difference)

    Hope this helps.

    Ken
  • fracballfracball Posts: 2
    Yes, mine does that too. Best I can tell, it is air turbulence from the side mirrors. My other car (Ford) does it also. Not sure if there is a fix at this time.
  • jfigueroa1jfigueroa1 Posts: 209
    Hi from another military member:
    well, this sound /noise could come from the antenna, mud flaps,wipers or windshield gasket but this truck is not that aerodynamic either.
    fig.
  • Can anyone out there tell me what kind of original spark plugs are in a 2004 V6 3.4?
  • 2004 Tacoma Toyota V6 3.4 Spark Plugs
  • kattmankattman Posts: 2
    In my 2005 double cab I have quite a bit of wind noise and I though it was because of the wind guards on the windows. But I also have a lot of road noise as well.
  • kattmankattman Posts: 2
    In my 2005 V6 automatic Tacoma Double Cab the air conditioning seems to be acting different than when it was new. When I turn of the recirculation switch I expect to smell the humidity from outside. Now that the truck is several months old the smell of humidity from outside comes and goes even when the switch is set to recirculation. I can also feel the air temperature from the vents rise at the same time. This will happen every 20 to 30 seconds while the air is running. Does anyone know if this is normal or if not what the problem might be?

    I live in Florida and it is quite warm and humid right now.
  • wparker1wparker1 Posts: 13
    Thanks Ken thats good to hear. Took my first little trip this weekend and was very surprised by gas mileage. Variety of speeds (some Interstate) averaged 22MPG for 589 miles. That was with premium BP fuel. Noticed wind noise on interstate but guess thats just the way it is. Can't wait to get my cap put on to hold the rear end down better. I'll ask everyone again, Has anyone ever put cat back dual exhaust on this 2.4 Ltr V-6? If so what was overall effect on performance? Borla makes a single cat back for this model. Also K&N has a FIPK for this model. Thinking of putting both on! anyone have any comments?? :blush:
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    ?
    The V6 is not a 2.4litre
  • I just bought a 1999 Tacoma and was wondering if it is hard to change the trany oil, does it need special tools and what kind of oil does it take.
  • eric666eric666 Posts: 2
    Hello all,,I have read some posts about front end shake/shimmy on 05 Tacos,,Mine also does this,, but I have stock Dunlops.. Anyone else have the problem with these..I find it a little odd that several tire companies having the problem.Has everyone had the problem fixed 100%. Or like me, one balance and better,,but not there yet..I wonder if it is more of a Toyo problem than tires,,Thanks for any input... Eric
  • lakerlaker Posts: 1
    I have a trouble with my 99 Tacoma 4x4 65k miles today. It totally stopped on Hw on my way to work. I believe it is related to problems of its clutch. because lately my friend and I both felt much less power to speed up and I had a plan to take care of it on the coming weekend. It just couldn't hold breath longer enough. Anyway, I never have any experience of clutch repair. It will be so appreciated if some experts can give me some advisors. I have an estimated cost of $821.83 including clutch pressure plate-R&R ($459.57), clutch pressure plate ($97.89), clutch assembly ($146.95), clutch braring & bushing ($91.36). Are those charges reasonable? What else do I need to pay attentions on? Thanks in advance.
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