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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions
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I'm looking at the specs on Edmunds, and it lists 18 city, 22 hiway. That's pretty close to what I get w/ my 2005 DC (17+ city, 22 - 24 hiway). If you're an aggressive driver, or if you just luck up and have most of your driving that's way out of the "sweet spot" of the speeds for the tranny and rear end, you'll do a bit worse. I did find that my in-town mileage went up 1mpg after about 5k-7k miles. Same was the case for the 2004 w/ 2.7L that I had before it.
Sorry you're having other issues, but I think you've made a mistake regardint the mpg claims.
lost in space.Your vibration and dealer experience sounds
like you have the same inherent "just live with it vibration"and toyota just wants us to go away.The truth be known is that they need to see a pattern of complaints to
launch a investigation so if you could call and complain that would be helpfull. it seems to be the 2006 v6 .
Also, has anyone had any problems with the driver or passenger side mirrors in the 2005-2006 v6 tacoma? My driver side mirror has vibrated and rattled from the start. My dealer said it was loose so they replaced it completely. Now, two months later it is worse that it was in the beginning. I plan to have this issue resolved along with the questionable "exhaust" noise that toyota claims is normal upon my next visit to the dealer.
If anyone else is experiencing any of these problems, speak out. It eases my mind a little to know that I'm not the only one to have difficulties.
Thanks,
Jason
The dealer said(of course)it was a normal sounding engine and I hear a lot of noises during the break-in period but I know this is not normal. After compalaining to both Toyota in US & Japan, I received a phone call from the executive office in CA. Now my break-in period is over and I'm supposed to call them so that they can arrange a test drive with a tech at a local dealer. I will post any outcome after test driving with a tech.
I agree we should be complaining, but to who? Like I said before, the dealer doesn't seem to give a damn and just wants me to go away. Yes, mine is the 2006 double cab v6 4X4.
We should call the toyota customer help line in california
1 800 331 4331 this will help all of us and get your vibration on record with the factory. When toyota said this was normal I asked if I could get a abnormal truck without a vibration. It looks as though I must go thru
arbitration the factory has left me with no other choice
keep you all posted.
I don't know if that is correct and assuming it is not, what are recommended players I could look for?
Thanks, John
This is very interesting because my '04 V6 Tacoma displays those exact symptoms, a little vibration at idle, esp. in drive; and missing on start ups. Could valves be out of adjustment from the factory?
Your response is appreciated.
thanks
For $125, including parts, he did a valve adjustment and changed the spark plugs, but not with denso k16r-u. Engine light off and no problems driving up in 30 below temps. Got to AK and a few weeks later the engine light came back on. Problem got steadily worse then disappeared. Reappeared a couple weeks later and this time got real bad, hesitation with clunking noise that softened as you reached the high end of the gear before shifting. Thought it was going to seize. So, Changed oil, oil filter, air filter, checked pcv, checked EGR, checked all hoses, transfer case, and transmission. A little improvement. Got online and read about similar problems and mistakes made, so next I went and got Denso K16R-U spark plugs and changed those out, added injector cleaner, and oil treatment. Runs like it just had a valve adjustment, idles fine... but from what I've learned the problem will return. 132,500 miles and 4th set of spark plugs, 1st- denso, 2nd-autolite, 3rd-autolite, 4th-denso, lets see what happens. Good luck.
soundman34, "Toyota Tacoma 2005+" #6853, 8 Apr 2006 5:33 am
I have a friend that is a Toyota/Lexus certified mechanic. He actually works more on the Lexus side but a lot of the platforms and applications are the same. I have been having this clunk in the driveline since last summer or at about the 5000 mile mark. Last year my dealer gave me the "it's normal for these trucks" speach and sent me on my way. The one thing I could not swallow is the fact I paid for toyota quality and service and then I get this kind of response. Anyway, back to the clunk. After talking to my friend, he confirmed everything I have been researing and discussing with fellow tacoma owners. The problem is the splined slip yoke assembly sticking and hanging up when coming to a stop and starting from a stop. Lexus is having the same trouble with their SUV line. The lexus SUV line shares the 4 Runner platform with Toyota. Unfortunatly Lexus is doing more about the problem than Toyota is. As you all can probably relate, the spline slip yoke is not being lubed probably at the factory. They are basically putting as little grease in them as possible. On top of that, the machining process of this part is not the greatest. The splined slip yoke is not smooth enough. These are the two reasons we are having this problem. After about 5000 miles or so (in my case) this starts to wear and stick. The only condition is that it only sticks at temperatures above 55 degrees outside ambient temperature which supports the lubrication issue. Above those temperatures with what little grease that is in there is not doing it's job properly. You probably can get the dealer to replace the whole driveline unit (from the carrige bearing back to the rear diff.) which will fix the problem for now but once those parts start to wear in you will have the same problem again. How soon? Who knows. The main problem is in the machining process. Until Toyota takes a serious look at that the problem is always going to be there. Lubing the spline Yoke will also fix it, but in some cases it may be only temporary. I am going to his house later today and he is going to take the system apart and show me what he has said. He is also going to lube the spline yoke with Jewlers grease which is what Lexus is trying to do to reduce or eliminate the clunk unitl the machining process is looked at and solved. I am not familiar with jewlers grease so I am not sure how the application works, but I will know later today when we take things apart. Sorry to be so long winded, but this is how is was explained to me and it's makes a lot of sense. I will post what I found out when we tackle this later today.
"The problem sounds similar to my truck and others where when stopping there is a thud in the rear like it was bumped. I think this is called "axle wrap" and is supposedly normal."
Thanks
With the doors open, and the bulb removed, your meter shows 12V across the two terminals of the bulb socket.
If that's the case, then the only possibilities I see are a bad connection btwn bulb and socket or you have a bad connection elsewhere that is causing a high resistance.
Bad connection elsewhere-
The resistance is "transparent" when there is no or little current flow. If the meter has a high impedance (which all decent instruments do), then it doesn't draw much current. The voltage drop across a high resistance (loose or corroded) connection is proportional to current flow, so low current, low voltage drop, resulting in you seeing the voltage at the terminals of the socket. However, when the bulb is in place, the current across the bad connection causes a voltage drop so large that the total current flow is too low to illuminate the bulb.
Check the ground connection at the doorswitches. Do you have the same problem regardless of which door you open, or if you open all of them at the same time? If only one door fails to illuminate the bulb, that switch may be bad or have a bad connection to ground. (My old Suzuki had issues w/ the door switches.) If all the doors have the problem, but the bulb glows some when all doors are open at the same time, it could be that all the switches are corroded or have bad grounds. Remove the bulb from the lamp, remove a door switch. Reinstall the bulb. Now ground the wire from the door switch to a good metal ground on your truck. If the bulb lights, the switch or its ground is the trouble. If not, then it's either the wiring from the switch to the socket, or from the socket to the 12V supply that has a loose or corroded connection.
Good hunting-
I have a 2006 with engine tap (another posting said Toyo is coming out with fix for fuel bracket??) and it is also bottoming out on the rear (leaf springs crashing hard on the axle when going over a dip in a road) usually more noticable with 2 or more persons. Does not need any additional weight in the truck. Gives you a hard jolt in your back and is very uncomfortable. I've been to the dealer 3 times for this. Mechanic & Customer service mgr both felt the jolt and now calling regional manager to the store to meet with me & discuss issue.
What happened to Toyota quality?
I read about same problem someone else had in a 2001 Tacoma.