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Any suggestions????
Thanx,
acola
-mike
I don't know if this is because the winter gas formulations cause lower fuel economy, or if vehicles somehow do not run as efficiently when the air is very cold.
Chris L
Tom
-mike
-mike
they offer an internet discount
you can see the parts guys through their webcam
They are located in St.Louis, MO
great, friendly, knowlegeable people to deal with
HTH,
Pat.
800.727.8066
Anyway, so far very dissapointed in the cost of repair parts for these, astronimical compare to even Toyota and Nissan.
The bracket that was rattling actually was one of the main brackets that held the display in tact. It was located directly behind the odometer. Man, I was glad to have that one fixed.
I hope that helps.
Steve
I did look at the tires side by side. They are both Duelers 684's.
I have since then fooled with the tire pressure slightly and brought it up to MFG spec. It has certainly gotten better. I think I was running the tires at too low of an air pressure. 27psi front, 27psi back to try and soften the ride. This caused the tires to wear more smooth in the center, less smooth on the sides.
They are getting better though. I'll wait until these are worn down and go with the Michelin LXT M/S. I need that smooth highway ride.
Steve
Steve
- When starting off from a standstill at light throttle, with 4WD Auto engaged, the indicator lights for the front wheels fully light up (three green LED bars) and there is a mechanical whining sound (presumably of the TOD engaging). It almost "seems" as if the 'system' is slipping but not the wheels.
- This occurs in normal conditions (i.e. dry when TOD should not be engaging and power should be mostly to the rear wheels).
- This is definitely not right since it has never happened before. In order to drive, I have to shut-off 4WD Auto.
- I read through all posts on this board and could not find similar problem.
Does anyone have an idea what this could be? Thanks much for any insight.
-mike
I'll check it asap. Whether it works for me or not, thanks a lot.
-PP
["The bracket that was rattling actually was one of the main brackets that held the display in tact. It was located directly behind the odometer."]
Thanks for the post. I haven't had the tires rotated recently. I only have 14,000 miles on the vehicle and OEM tires. It's my wife's vehicle and she does not use it much.
Interesting about the diameter issue. I'll check the tire pressure in case one is way out of whack. But I didn't notice anything that off visually. I'll check out the link too.
Thanks again for the post. If you think of anything else, please let me know. I have a feeling I will not be satisfied with my dealer's response.
-mike
Mike, I would be shocked if any dealer replaced your tailpipe under warranty. Such is life in the "Rust-belt"!
You might check this out for yourself at http://165.113.128.10:81/$WEBMSG.Read.ITOG-3.8928
-mike
I was also confused for a while whether the TOD unit was IN ADDITION TO or INSTEAD OF the regular transfer case. Eventually I was able to determine that the TOD unit REPLACES the regular transfer case.
As long as the thing doesn't fall off, it doesn't bother me.
*5-speed manual trans with shift-on-the-fly 4WD (no TOD)
*4-speed auto trans with shift-on-the-fly 4WD (no TOD)
*4-speed auto trans with TOD
I've changed the TOD fluid in my 98 Trooper twice. First time I drained it, it was a cherry red fluid so I'm assuming that it was ATF!
-mike
Maybe the other manufactuer's also check up on their dealers. But as I hadn't bought a new car in decades, this technique was a pleasant surprise to me.
I decided to replace my spark plugs the other night, since my engine now has 52,000 Miles on it. I had no idea it would be a 4 hour ordeal before it was finished. Yep, I said 4 hours. I spent about 2 hours on the last plug which has an interference, the brakes vacuum booster housing. That sucker is right in line with where you need your spark plug wrench extension to go. You better have multiple extension lengths ( which I have a couple but not one that I needed ) or an extension with a u-joint in it, before tackling this job. I finally came up with an alternate approach that worked, but with much frustration and worry. Back to my first statement... when I pulled the first plug connector out I noticed a small amount of baked out oil on the end of the boot. That surprised me a bit but I was really surprised when as I extracted the spark plug, there was heavy thick oil about an inch or so up the socket all the way down the plug threads to the electrode tip. WHAT?? Where in the world did that come from? I put some light down the well hole and sure enough I could see oil laying in the bottom up to the threaded spark plug hole. This was the front left side plug as you face the front of the engine. I pondered this a bit and decided to go ahead and install the new spark plug. By the way, these integral coil and plug boot combinations are just ingenious ideas. Bet it would cost a pretty penny to replace on if it fails! I moved to the 2nd plug and removed it. It too had a little oil down in the bottom of the well, but significantly less. The 3rd plug well was bone dry, and very clean. Looked like brand new. Moving to the right side of the engine, the front plug well was dry but had a bit of a rusty looking film in it. The next one back was clean, and the one on the back (the dirty rotten *&(@%$) was dry and mostly clean. The threads on it were very dry and it squeeked and crackled as I removed it, causing a cold sweat to break out on my forehead. It was about 40 F in the garage. The other plugs had been pretty tight, but nothing like this last one. I would suggest you don't wait until 50,000 mi. to do your first spark plug change. Anyway I inspected the threads and they were not pulled or deformed, whew!! All new plugs were installed and the vehicle started and runs fine!! Smooth as silk. But.. what is up with this oil around a couple of the plugs?? Anyone had this experience??