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I will bring this up with my dealership and see what they think. So far, they've mentioned only in passing that it might have something to do with the timing system, so I'll have them investigate further.
I appreciate your help, and will keep everyone posted!
Mike
i havn't noticed any noise from brakes.but can u explain a little more of what kind of sound u were noticing b4 they replaced ur fan blower cause i do hear a tickling sound at low tempreratures but not over 70 or 80 from somewhere in the ac vents.
I have a '01 325i, this is my first BMW. During the first 4 years I had the car stalled few times then it needed the "cam sensor" replaced; hand brake did not release completely caused by the "spring". Then, 10 second after the engine is on, the yellow oil light turns on for 15 second; dx: faulty oil sensor, estimate for replacement $500. Now, the passenger rear window is broken, I can hear the buzzy noise, but it does not move. Any idea how much will it cost me to fix it. Just minor things but it drives me crazy, should i trade it in without fixing it? It seems that I cannot keep a BMW more than 6 years. I heard people like to lease rather than buy a BMW because of this reason. Is it true? :sick: Thanks in advance.
It is true for me. I have the first year E90 and decided to lease because I can keep the miles relatively low and do not have to worry about ANY repairs.
My take is if you need to purchase a car for high miles, keep it as simple as possible with few options because of the depreciation effect. The repair costs are higher on the more premium cars also so you need to factor that in to the buy decision.
I estimate your window will be $300 - $500.
Regards,
OW
Regards,
OW
Much appreciated,
Charlotte
I am not sure about the extended warranty contract which sounds high, so I have chosen to take my chance on that.
Refer to Post #3207. Nalley BMW was offering the extended maintenance for $945 earlier this year.
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Oil changes, per your manual, are required when the car tells you they're due. Figure on roughly every 15,000 miles, however, the car may well tell you to do it in as few as 12,000 miles (if you really thrash the car), or in as long as 19,000 miles (if you typically get on the freeway, set the Cruise Control at ~75 and then drive an hour or two).
If you want to preform an interum oil change (at say 7,500 miles) you MUST MAKE SURE you use one of the three oils available here in North America that meet the BMW LL-01 oil standard. Said oils are as follows:
- BMW Synthetic 5W-30
- German made (says "Made in Germany" on the label) Castrol Syntec 0W-30
- Mobil 1 0W-40
Best Regards,
Shipo
Bimmer=BMW Car
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Just for fun I emailed BMW NA from the Owners Circle web site and asked what oils could be substituted for BMW synthetic oil. I was advised that Castrol Syntec 5w-30, Mobil 1 5W-30, and and Valvoline 5W-30 were acceptable substitutes- none of which meet LL-01 standards.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Best Regards,
Shipo
I believe the Bently Service Manual even suggests 15W-40 obviously for high temp summer months. Check that but that is what I remember. I cannot imagine any demonstrable difference in engine wear before 250K and how many people have over that mileage????
abfisch
Best Regards,
Shipo
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Regards,
OW
a. Engine Oil Service (been doing for every 15,000 miles)
b. Inspection I
c. Inspection II
My BMW has 86,000 miles on it. I'm scheduled to take my BMW in the shop for: 4-wheel alignment, coolant flush, break oil flush, Engine Oil Service, and Transmission Oil flush (??). I'd like to hear the best recommendation if possible. Thanks!
Best Regards,
Shipo
Fairly common problem on BMWs...the circuit boards seem to overheat. I fixed a friends 750 like this, same problem.
Make sure that you use the silver base bulbs which are available from your dealer- or get Sylvania /Osram bulbs at Autozone. Apply a very thin coat of bulb(dielectric) grease to the bases of the bulbs prior to installing them. That eliminated the phantom bulb warnings on my E39 5er.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
The car is less than 2 weeks old and we've only put ~100 miles on it. We bought it at BMW of Tacoma/Fife. I have owned a 1997 BMW 318is for 10 years and have had few problems with it. However, I'm really disappointed to have a problem than makes the car unusable after such a short period of time.
Anyone have similar problems with the 2006-2007 3-series? I know than the previous generation had lots of transmission problems (the automatic GM transmission).
Do I have any recourse I have - I just bought the darn thing and it broke already.
I am bummed about the problem and the poor service I received.
:lemon:
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
I have heard that this will not likely help, but the dealer should at least give you a loaner car.
Good luck and keep us posted.
cbanct
Is this for real?? can someone confirm? It's the silliest thing I ever heard.
For my part, I have a problem with the lack of a dip-stick for a different reason. As I am inclined to perform most of my own maintenance, I prefer to remove used oil via the dip-stick tube as opposed to crawling underneath the vehicle. Eliminating the dip-stick has also brought about the elimination of the tube that it is slid through. Grrr.
Best Regards,
Shipo
The problem is, I could not reset the TPMS sensor. Each time I pressed reset, the red warning light would come back on again. Is there something other than tire pressure need to be checked on? Do I need to go to a dealer for service? Also, what could have triggered the warning light?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I tried last year but needed to R.T.F.M. Duh! :mad:
Thanks for the reply. I meant to look at the manual, but did not have it with me. The on-line manual on bimmerfest is a old version and I could not find anything about resetting. Without a spare in trunk, it really got me worried with this red warning light on.
Anyway, I have got it. Like you said, it is a little tricky. You have to press "reset" twice, and on the second time hold for like 10+ seconds (manual said 5 seconds) till the "reset" disappears. Then you go back in the "reset" again, and press it for the third time. A check mark is shown next to the word "reset", and you are done.
Hope this takes care of it. I still have no idea what set the warning off. (I did visual inspection again and still saw no sign of puncture or any foreign object.) Will have to watch out for a few days and check the tire pressure again.
Thanks
http://blogs.edmunds.com/roadtests/486?@@
Thanks
ANy thoughts?