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Most common reasons for a BMW is typically:
1. Oxygen sensor failure
2. Vacuum leak
I have a 2007 335i with 80K miles. It's had its share of problems over the years, but luckily most of them have been covered by the warranty. My extended warranty runs out at the end of the year and I'm seriously considering selling the car now. I still love how it drives and I would keep the car another 6 years but I am very concerned about repair costs. If I'm going to pay $$$ for maintaining it, I might as well use that money for a new car. Am I overly worried? Or should I sell it before it gets to 100K?
Additionally, if you have to rely on a BMW dealership for maintenance and repairs, then, yeah, I'd suggest moving on with another car.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Did your fuel pump fail & your engine went into "limp mode" while driving 90 mph in the left lane of a busy highway?
Or are we talking defective power seats & faulty window regulators?
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
The engine also overheated and left me stranded while driving to work. I had to get the car towed to the dealership.
The turbos had some other issues.. I'm no mechanic, so I can't really go into the details. But the mechanic at the dealership maxed out my extended warranty to fix whatever was wrong and then advised me to come back again so he could do more work. I did that and now the car runs ok, but it's kinda hard not be concerned.
I do have a local mechanic who I can use and he is much, much cheaper than the dealer. He specializes in BMW's and he advised me to sell my car and not touch any turbo engines from BMW for a while.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
Anyhoo, as you start getting close to the end of your warranty, I'd be looking into getting the walnut blasting service of the valves done on BMW's dime. Not all service advisors will do this under warranty, but if you have a good relationship with yours, it is quite possible. The other is that the spark plugs are technically due just before 50k miles. Doesn't sound like you'll be coming near that in your 4-years free service, though.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
With the extended warranty, at least the valve cleanings should be covered.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The car has only 125k miles. So it wasn’t driven harshly, but we did overlooked a couple of maintenance items, like spark plugs were not replaced until about 110k miles and the air filter was replaced late too.
Any advice for me for the diagnosis of cylinder head replacement? Thanks in advance.
If he says it needs a new head, it probably does... (plus, he did a compression check)
Now, do you want to pay $2500 to fix a $7K car? Seems like you almost have to...
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'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
But I don’t know whether the first guy had anything to do with these “low pressure.” This first guy wasn’t able to start the car, I believe, during the stay of the car in his shop. He also changed the thermostat b/c it was one of the shown codes.
Once in a while in its history, this car felt like the engine was slow and kind of struggling when first started. On average, it would also stall once every several months, but we could always restart it. But, for this last time, I just felt that the engine got slower and slower on the road and eventually stalled and would not start again.
In terms of the oil level, the low oil warning light always came up when the car first started, even right after an oil change. But the light always went away after we drove for 100 ft or so. The first mechanic (who I use for other family cars, Japanese) said that it should be an oil sensor issue and don’t worry about it. So I took his word for it. But now I begin to wonder whether the oil pressure has been low now that you asked about it. We do change oil regularly.
I just dug up my scribbly notes about what the second guy said after I left my car with him. He said that Valves #3 – #6 were not closing and the head gasket was blown. I will ask him what you asked “why he thinks the valves aren't closing” tomorrow. He also said to change the timing chain guides.
Any further inside with these additional descriptions? Really appreciate your opinions.
to try to clarify what I said, when the car was towed to the (second) mechanic, he checked the pressures on 2 (or 3) cylinders that are closest to the radiator and 40 or 50 psi were shown on the meter. I don't know how the cylinders are numbered. I would hope that those are #1 and #2.
when I called him after a few days, he said that "valves 3 – 6 are not closing." I don't know which are considered "#3" thru "#6." If #6 is closest to the radiator, then what he told me over the phone were not consistent with what I saw on his pressure gauge.
How are the valves numbered? thanks in advance again.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I called BMW North America and I was told they only help with car features or personal issues and that I should go back to the dealer and have them check it out again. CATCH-22.
Is there anyone who can verify ond/or explain what causes this black soot. Do I need to go to the dealer and check all the 335 exhaust pipes to see what colors the exhaust is, than if they are different than mine I am back to where I started. I am concerned because I am planning a drive to Colorado to see my son and do some sight seeing. (see America trip).
In that situation the primary method of interference is magnetic coupling. To effectively shield against a 60 Hz magnetic filed you need a thick steel (greater than 0.1 inch) enclosure. Typical automotive sheet metal, .080 inches thick (guessing here), would only reduce the magnetic field strength by 90%.
When I pressed the button again to go to Off mode, Pandora instantly stopped playback! It was as if I had pushed the Pause button on the smartphone. I was able to repeat this behavior three times consistently. There was no wired connection between the smartphone and the car. The Bluetooth connection would probably have been established, though.
What gives? Why would the Engine Start/Stop function be putting out a signal that would be picked up by the Droid Razr and interpreted by Pandora? Has anyone else experienced this phenomenon? I have been on Bluetooth calls when shutting down the engine with no interruption to the call.
xeye
Once you enter the car and turn it on (start button only, no clutch) the phone automatically pairs itself with the car. When you turn the car off, the pandora turns off too.
The car knows when you are on the phone and that you might want to continue your conversation outside the car.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I am, indeed, still around, but I am now in a 2013 Black Sapphire Metallic 335i xDrive Sport w/Leather Dakota Black/Red highlight. I went to the dealer in early May this year just to 'look around', and wound up driving out a few days later in the new ride. If you spot one of these with MA license 'STLTH', that might be me. The only items I miss are the H/K stereo and the parking sensors as I did not custom-order this one. About the only package this one doesn't have is the M 'lipstick'. The really REALLY nice thing is that I didn't have to wait, agonize and track the RORO all the way across the ocean for 8 weeks!
Someone got a sweet Tasmin Green/Oyster CPO with about 30,000 miles!
My wife traded in her 2008 328xi for a 2013 Fiat 500 Abarth, also great fun to drive. On start-up, it sounds like two Harleys strapped together! Our neighbors love us. Her license plate is 'LUIGEE'.
I am very impressed by how BMW tweaked the car between the '11 and the '13. I was a little skeptical when they came out with the 3 lines, but someone put a lot of thought into the ergonomics of the newer version. Flipping the switch between Comfort and Sport with pressure on the GO pedal never ceases to bring on a big grin!
On Monday, I will be taking the car in for service as I think I've lost half of the horn sound. It sounds more life a Nissan Versa than a BMW. It's embarrassing to honk the horn!
Good to chat again. I will try to post a pic soon.
xeye
I am currently leasing a 2011 328xiA & love it. I've got a total of 30 months/50K miles to enjoy it. It goes back 9/22/2014. I have driven a new 328xi (base model, loaner car) and didn't particularly care for it. It sure was a lot faster than my Titanium Silver/Black 2011, but severely lacked the steering feedback & "buttoned down" handling I crave. I got my car in March of 2012 as a leftover with a subsidized lease & lots of cash incentives. The current body style is going to be out of my price range when my lease is up.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Also, many owners find ways to cut costs--either by using a good independent repair shop, and also joining the BMW club (https://www.bmwcca.org/index) and taking advantage of member discounts as well as excellent repair and maintenance tips found in the DIY forums.
Of course, you will find BMW owners here at Edmunds who are very helpful and easier to access than joining a club.
My dealer is very good.. My car was CPO, so they worked on it until it was 6 years old... they don't up-sell... so, if they say you need it, you need it, and my independent mechanic confirms it.. The dealer has so much more experience with my model car than a general independent could have, so it's nice having them scope out the problems. My independent is a very good, as well, so no issues having them do the work I request...
It works for me.. I'd say about $150-$200 per month for repair and maintenance... on average...
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I'm thinking you may have a dealer issue moreso than a BMW issue. I don't think BMW did anything radically different in the taillight lens dept. on the F30 than the E90 model.
I can't find anything on-line about what might be going on, but common sense, a decent knowledge of cars, and putting together some things he said is hinting at a couple of things. Could he have registered the battery wrong? Could he have used the wrong battery (there are 2 potential batteries for this model and I don't believe they are interchangeable)? Could either of these 2 things either be causing a false reading on the scan, or have messed up the electrical system? Has anyone had a situation where the battery was replaced and the electric water pump blew as a result? Any other ideas?
A battery light would not necessarily warrant a battery replacement, so really, in hindsight, the car should have been scanned first, and codes extracted, and then the charging system checked, before anything else was done.
hard to say what happened given the info you provided.
Frankly, I'd be a bit skeptical about any mechanic that would simply replace a battery without doing a load test first, if for no other reason than to prove the battery was bad rather than a fault in the charging system.
So, personally, I'd have doubts in this shop's competency level, based upon your comments.
As for your problem's cause, its difficult to say from the info provided. BMW water pumps seem to have a higher failure rate after around 75-80K miles, and many owners replace them around that benchmark mileage as a preventive measure.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Separately, popped the glass passenger side mirror while crossing a narrow bridge (this age model doesn't have a remote folding button). Ordered an after market part for about $60. Can I manually place it back on and click the backing, or pay a dealer/ auto shop?