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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tdooleytdooley Member Posts: 1
    Hello. I am hoping someone can help me narrow down what this problem could be. For about a month now, my car has made an interesting noise whenever I ease onto the brake, ease up off the brake and cruise, and when I make sharp turns. The noise is hard to describe. The best description I can give is that it is similar to the sound you hear if your tire is rubbing up against the wheel well...
    Any thoughts?
  • steve1972steve1972 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 95 Nissan Maxima. When it's cold, it starts fine, but when it's hot, or the car is warmed up, I turn the key once, and nothing, turn it quick the second time and bang it starts. Sometimes I have to push the foot to the floor too in order to get it to start. My friend told me to turn the key, but not all the way, wait 10seconds, then try, and it seems to work. But like you, it's driving me crazy, and I hope you or someone else can spare me the outrages cost it's going to be to find the problem. At least now I know from what you have tried already, that it won't work for mine either. I'll keep trying to find the problem, and I'll let you know if I do, could you please do the same for me? Thanks and good luck to the both of us.
  • 97maximaowner97maximaowner Member Posts: 3
    Hello again, I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts as to what I can do with the shaking. I need my car on a constant basis (sometimes for emergency reasons) and this problem is causing me to think twice before touching my car.
    Several times the shaking was so bad I felt like the car was about to shut down on me.
    Any advice would be greatly appreciated. :)
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    I don't think replacing a couple of sensors at 54,000 miles qualifies as a money pit, nor necessarily a harbinger of other repairs to come. If you had had multiple problems by that time like I did with my Subaru -- sensors, brake rotors, calipers, just to name a few -- I could see it.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • aggiedogaggiedog Member Posts: 238
    In regards to the noise when turning, it's probably the CV (constant velocity) Joint. There is a boot that covers the joint that can split over time and all the grease will leak out hense, the noise when turning. Of course that doesn't account for the noises when braking. That could be a separate problem.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Member Posts: 238
    From your description, it seems to be bad brake rotors or calipers or even a master cylinder problem. If the calipers were sticking, that may cause the loss in power but they would have to be really acting up to cause that. You're going to have to get it checked out. If the calipers are sticking, that can cause over heating and possibly lead to a fire. I'm sure you don't want that.
  • ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    Ok, so I've got 79,430 miles on the old 2000 Max SE and I'm FINALLY doing brakes. I do NOT have any squeaking, grinding, pulsing, etc but the pads are getting a bit thin and the steering wheel does vibrate or dance back and forth a tiny bit when I hit the brakes hard. We use the car now as our primary vehicle when our baby is with so I figure it's time to get them done. Going with Precision Tune, all 4 corners with new pads and resurface rotors, plus flush/fill brake fluid. Estimated cost about $355 with tax. I called the dealer for same service and was around $600. We'll see I guess. Just wanted to update because so many post about brake issues, and well, I obviously didn't have any so they're not ALL bad. I do go really easy on the brakes though, with lots of coasting and releasing the pedal to cool them off aka pumping them like in the snow in the old days. Seems to have worked to get 79K out of them! ;-)

    Seeya
  • steve1972steve1972 Member Posts: 2
    My airbag light flashing too, so many have told me that I need to change the sensor, but I'm not in a hurry because the sensor is priced at about $600 Canadian. Keep in mind that the air bags are good for nothing unless the sensor is changed.
  • kgbatussrkgbatussr Member Posts: 2
    Greetings All, I recently purchased the above car, and have had nothing but problems with the battery (I think).I first noticed the problem when I was driving on an uphill incline and the radio started to turn on and off. I got home and turned off the car, went inside for 30 minutes or so , went back out to start the car again, and the battery was flat. My mate came over and we jump started it. Good as gold, and here comes the tricky bit, while I was reversing out of the driveway, the car slowly came to a halt ,as though it had run out of petrol.
    I pushed it to its parking space and the next morning the battery was dead.
    I purchased another battery( brand new ) .The car started and I put it in the garage, Next morning, the car did,nt start , but made the usual flat battery noises.
    I left it alone and went to bed.I tried to start it up the next day, but again the battery was completely flat. Does ANYONE have a theory or helpful comment on this, I know I am stumped.Thanks for your thoughts, Paul .
  • murrdogg32murrdogg32 Member Posts: 9
    is the bank 2 sensor the as the o2 sensor?
  • murrdogg32murrdogg32 Member Posts: 9
    how do you tell if you have a california max in regards to the o2 sensors ?
  • carsch3carsch3 Member Posts: 8
    Shop manual? Last time I checked with the dealer for my 97 maxima, the cost was $150 or so. A Haynes manual will do just as well for a water pump.
  • carsch3carsch3 Member Posts: 8
    Start first by taking to your car to Autozone or a similar store where they can check for any stored codes. It seems to me that there is an ignition firing problem, although it could be something else having nothing to do with the ignition.
  • dklaneckydklanecky Member Posts: 559
    Could it be that your defeating the security system in the key/ignition when you try to start it the first time? That's why it would start the second time you try and also if you put the key in the ignition and wait a few seconds before you try to start it?

    I'd save the money from taking it to the dealer and just wait a couple of seconds after you put the key in the ignition, before you turn it over to start it.
  • kagedudekagedude Member Posts: 407
    Hi. My 2001 Maxima which was babied since I got it new seems to be having premature major failures at 46K miles. Last year, the a/c compressor went and had to be replaced. The car only had 38K miles. Now, the service engine light went on and while I was getting an oil change at a oil/lube place, the mechanic noted that the ECM had a burning smell coming out of it. Called the dealer and they suggested to remove the battery connection and have it towed there. What is going on? I bought this car thinking its very mechanically reliable. Anyone have the same kind of experience? I'm now thinking of selling it before anything major goes wrong. I believe if its the ECM, its covered under warranty for 8 years/80K miles.
  • jupitermaximajupitermaxima Member Posts: 1
    It all started a few weeks back, I turned the key and nothing :sick: , release and turn key again, it starts. As time passed, it would take 2 or more turns of the key to get the starter to engage. :confuse: A few days ago, no matter how many times I turned the key the car would not start. Replaced the starter, car started normally. This lasted about 2 days, the sypmtoms have returned. Any idea's?? :lemon:
  • inknpapr31inknpapr31 Member Posts: 1
    Please help...My 2004 SL has had a shaking steering wheel since the day I picked it up. I brought it to the dealer four times, two sets of tires, two sets of rims, new breaks, tire rotation, balancing everything those "brains" at Nissan can think of. Nothing has improved.

    If anyone has had the same problem and it has been resolved PLEASE let me know, before I go through the trouble of envoking the Lemon Law...
  • ashantiashanti Member Posts: 6
    BY looking at the dipstick how do I know if I have enough oil in the engine. It does not have any measurement markings, just a couple of bends in the metal. I have a 1995 SE Maxima.\

    By the way if anyone here has changed their own water pump please let me know how you did it.

    Thanks!
  • murrdogg32murrdogg32 Member Posts: 9
    sounds like your rotors are bad .it appears that all model maximas rotors are to small for braking system .After a couple of hard stops the rotors warp!!! Try to get the to replace them .It will probably work for a little while mind as well go for after markets !
  • irishavengeririshavenger Member Posts: 1
    ok, so a while back, i replaced my cv shafts because the boots were torn, and it was knocking under power. The noise went away, ans all was well. Just about a week ago, it started again. If i hit the gas and turn, it makes the knocking noise. i checked the torque on the spindle nuts, they're fine. I don't know if it's wheel bearings, or if i put the cv shafts in wrong, which i can't see happening. anybody have any ideas?
  • baron_350baron_350 Member Posts: 6
    Hello everyone, I know I am missing something simple here but if someone could give me a nudge in the right direction I would appreciate it. I bought my wife a 2004 liquid silver Maxima SL this past weekend and there is one little thing that is particularly troubling about it. The center console that holds the driver info screen has the button setup for Navigation but the info center is not a navigation system! It is the basic orange LCD screen. As a result, I can't figure out how to access some of the simpler features of the car such as resetting the trip computer or even setting the clock! There are supposed to be dedicated buttons for each of these functions as I understand, but on our car we have the buttons for the navigation system instead, and they don't do anything! The owner's manual doesn't show any other way to go about it. Can anyone help me? Thanks in advance! :confuse:
  • aggiedogaggiedog Member Posts: 238
    I only directed the poster to a previous post from someone else, where they could get the info they needed from either an actual shop manual or an online shop manual for $20. Most dealers won't even sell you shop manuals. Only if you're so inclined, i.e. have worked on cars before, would I suggest you fool with a water pump using a haynes manual. I've done 02 sensors from haynes but that's like changing a spark plug. My max is an 02 with 45k miles so I haven't had to work on it yet and I haven't looked into its water pump or it's relation to the timing chain. In most cars, the water pump is usually behind the timing belt and only if you are skilled should you really mess with that. I don't think it's worth the headache. Of course if the water pump is sitting up like a spark plug or air filter then my argument is moot and by all means, go for it.
  • tedzepplintedzepplin Member Posts: 5
    I drive a 1993 Maxima, I don't know if it is GLS, SE, or what-have-you. All documentation pointing in that direction is long gone. It has 150k miles on it, and it is generally a very reliable vehicle. Now, getting to the point, I also have experienced the same problem that kgbatussr has been having. The radio will turn on and off, as if possessed, and occassionaly the battery goes dead for no unknown reason. I have also experienced when I have had to turn the key 3 or 4 times to get the engine to start. I am not talking about slow start, such as with a bad starter, what I mean is the car simply will not start. No clicking noise of a dead battery, now sound what-so-ever. I have had the starter and the battery replaced, no difference, the problem re-occurred the same day. I have also tried the wait a few seconds for the security system approach, no help. What I have found, and it has cured my problem, it a short in one of the wonderful Bose powered speakers in the trunk. It appears that the amp had gone bad and that there was also a short in the stereo speaker themselves which was causing a huge drain on the whole electrical system. If your Maxima is fully loaded, then you must have the same Bose system, and I can almost bet you that it is the cause, or at least a factor, of your problem. I talked to a few local dealership shops, and they are the ones that referred me to a decent auto-electrician. Apparently, this is a somewhat common problem with the 1993 Maxima, and it is really an rather easy remedy. Get yours checked out, and tell me how it goes.
  • kgbatussrkgbatussr Member Posts: 2
    I will, and thank you for the advice, THE KGB.
  • dobrydobry Member Posts: 7
    i have the same problem when u turn key once then secound on thirt is ignition try too push key up to dashbord in the same time when you turn it to start engine.If it works it mean you have to replace ignition in steering column it cost me 150$ for new.I hope so it helps.
  • kagedudekagedude Member Posts: 407
    Need some help here asap. The dealer came back with the diagnosis and they are saying the wiring harness caused the ECM to burn out. The idler also needs to be replaced. The bill is coming out to $1400 plus taxes.

    I wasn't too happy with this so I called Nissan Consumer Affairs 800-NISSAN-1 but their only suggestion is to bring it to another dealer. They said the dealer decides if this is under warranty. Can't really take it to another dealer since it has to be towed.

    Do I have any other recourse before I bite this one? Thanks.
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    Hi all, I have a 96 nissan maxima and today I tried to start the car but it wont start. There is power but the engine wont turn. Any ideas about what might be the problem? I think it's either the spark plugs, starter, or the fuel filter being clogged up. Thanks in advance. Also, i have the same Bose system failure and it drained the battery some. I disconnected the audio wiring from the battery and it was ok. Now the car wont turn but still has power. i just think that nissan maxima cars are a disgrace! Hate it. i would recommend anyone to avoid these cars with the years 93-97. Pathetic. im just so mad. Trade in or sell your cars!!! ARGGHHH =)
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    I also have the same problem. Everytime i push on the gas even lightly, there is a knock noise. I wish i knew what the heck is wrong.
  • kumibearkumibear Member Posts: 2
    Hey, I'm new to this website, but I'm having the same problems with my 2000 nissan maxima that slj930 had (report #1998) re: electronic engine mounts/computer short. To reiterate, a buzzing noise after the engine is turned off, $800 to replace engine mounts, and another $900 if the problem has extended to the ECM. Does anyone remember or know the best way to handle this problem?
  • gchu5gchu5 Member Posts: 5
    Hi,

    I just bought a brand new Nissan Maxima 2005 3.5 SE (Auto-Transmission) a couple days ago. One thing I notice is that when slowly accelerating (or slowly deccelerate to 20 MPH or so, the gear (I presume it's 2nd gear) transition is not smooth. At least not as smooth as I would have liked or expected out of a brand new car.

    Has anyone noticed this particular problem? Should I take the car to Nissan Dealer for warranty repair?

    Thanks...George
  • mikesmaximamikesmaxima Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2002 Nissan Maxima 6speed Manual. Everything is wonderful except one thing. When I take off with the wheel turned there is a strange rubbing/gripping (NOT GRINDING) noise coming from front wheel area. it goes away as soon as I get to about 20 MPH and straighten the wheel. It doesnt make this noise when i take off with wheels straight..ONLY when they are turned either direction. If I just go in 1st gear and drive with wheels turned and drive in a circle about 15 MPH it does it continually. as soon as I straighten her up it goes away. I replaced both brakes and rotors as they were slightly warped but this didnt correct the problem. I thought it might be coming from CV joint but boot is sealed with no slits. YOU ALL HAVE ENY IDEAS??? PLEASE YOUR HELP IS GRATELY APPRECIATED!
  • hound97hound97 Member Posts: 22
    Sorry to hear of your problems. I too have an 01 Max and am sad to say I'm become little more convinced it is a poorly built piece of junk every time I drive it. At 55,000 miles I replaced both rear oxygen sensors. Got in it today and the ABS light stayed on. I'm guessing I should bend over for another multi-hundred-dollar bill from the dealer on this one.

    The sad thing is I was so close to selling in late last month and had a dealer I think would have been pretty generous on the trade.

    Wish I had some thoughts for you on your issues but I don't. Anyone had any experience with ABS problems? It's disappointing that Nissan was willing to risk the long-proven reputation for quality vehicles in the Maxima to boost sales for a few years.... very shortsighted on their part. I'll never buy another one of their cars.
  • snupsnup Member Posts: 1
    hello, I also have a 2001 maxima with 45K miles, and a couple of days ago my "service engine soon" light came on. Had no problems with the a/c. I do however smell a slight burning ( ruber like) comming from under the hood after the car runs for a while. Is there anyway to have the light come off without taking it to the dealership? did you get your car fixed yet? what was the outcome? how much?
  • 01txmax01txmax Member Posts: 1
    2001 Maxima 20th Edition SE. After turning the engine off today, what sounded like a bad electrical motor to one of the engine fans was heard making a twirling/whining type noise. My first thought was one of the fans was in a bind so I checked them and found no problem. Long story short, when I remove the 15amp fuse referencing "Eng Cont 2", the whining sound stops. Still thought it may be to do with the fans and left it off to see if the engine would start. It would turn over, but not without the fuse replaced. Just trying to understand the problem before taking to mechanic and prevent battery drain. Anyone have information on this system because I can not locate a thing? Thanks!
  • kwil4510kwil4510 Member Posts: 1
    Have a 93 Maxima SE. When I switch to Hi beams, right headlight goes out. Switched bulbs but the same thing happens. Left operates correctly. Anyone with similar problems,contact me at kdub4209@yahoo.com. :shades:
  • kumibearkumibear Member Posts: 2
    If it's the same buzzing noise I have in my car, it may be the engine mounts and possibly the ECM. Check out messages 732, 1146, 1157, 1998 and (my message) 2601 in this thread. Haven't gotten any further feedback on my message yet. Please let me know if you find out anything else. Thanks.
  • wrmcmwrmcm Member Posts: 1
    I recently had a similar problem with my 2000 SE. the check engine light was on and i got it checked out. the shop replaced 2 O2 sensors but the problem didn't go away immediately. at the same time i was trying to get my car inspected but it wouldn't pass emissions since the computer read "Not Ready" which basically meant I needed to drive the car around more before the computer could reset/ recycle itself. after about 230 miles later, i think the computer finally reset itself and i noticed the difference immediately. i now have full acceleration and the car passed emissions.
  • rafarafa Member Posts: 35
    We had the same prolem with our 2001 nissan maxima se one day it just died and it didnt want to stay on you had to hold the gas pedal to stay on we towed it to the shop and they said it was the idle conrol valve so we told them to fix it then they called us back and said that the ecm which is the computer burn out so it ended up costing us $2100 dollorto fix scheck with the dealer about that see if they can cover that lem us know we still have recipes :lemon:
  • lemonzeplemonzep Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 95 maxima today. This is 2 days after I just replaced my ECM because the car stalled a few times when I was driving it. Very frustrating!

    Joe
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    Hi all, i recently had car problems. When i would try starting the car, the power would be okay but the engine wont turn. It turns out that the starter had to be replaced. Ever since then, the car would start when i put in the key. As for my other problem with the right suspension: (it was making knocking noises when stoping and then accelerating, and ALSO rattling noises that can be heard when driving close to a side curb), I noticed a leak coming from the front right side of the suspension. I believe its the gas strut. The noise was probably due to this and because probably i hit too many potholes or big bumps on the roads. Hope this may help some of you. Also, as for the audio bose systems problem, I would recommend disconnecting the wires that are connected to the car battery and the system. Then i would recommend replacing all the factory speakers and the console with aftermarket system. i never had a problem since then with power. My battery still has alot of power. Just take your car to any auto mechanic and ask them to disconnect them for you and they'll do it. They wont take your console out, they'll just disconnect the wires underneath your steering wheel.
  • kagedudekagedude Member Posts: 407
    The car is still at the dealership. I called 800-NISSAN-1 and they moved up the issue to their regional dept. They said they will be calling the dealer about the problem. I insisted someone from Nissan come down to the dealership to see why the dealer would think that the cause of the ECM burnout is the wiring harness. Why would a wiring harness be defective in the first place? That is the first I heard of that. Hopefully, the main part which is the ECM can be covered under the warranty. Thanks.
  • cjeffcjeff Member Posts: 1
    I'm a newbie to the forum. Have a '97 Maxima with about 68K miles. Generally it's been fine except this week the car won't start -- no clicking, nothing over a 2 hour span. Took to local service station and it wouldn't start there either, yesterday or this morning. Then a few minutes ago, it started for them -- no idea why, or whether it will in the future. Any ideas? The keyless entry is probably close to shot so perhaps it's an electrical issue. Thanks.
  • vbkatvbkat Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima that I bought new in May 2001. In July 2003, I had a problem with my gas door where it got out of alignment (skewed up on the top right and skewed out on the bottom left). This interfered with the opening and closing of the door. I brought it to the dealership (Barry Nissan, Newport, RI) and they said they could fix it. They also said that the door needs to be lubed from time to time (has anyone ever heard that???). They lubed it and as they were moving it, it cracked, so I had to buy a new one (I was not happy since THEY really broke it!, but the warranty had run out).

    Now, it's June 2005 and I have 85,000 miles on it, and once again, the same exact situation has occurred with my gas door! Both times, the door would squeak while being used for a period of time and then stop a few months before it got out of alignment.

    Personally I think putting a new door on will again result in this same situation about 2 years down the line! My 1990 Acura Integra with 215,000 miles had NEVER had a problem with the gas door and I have NEVER lubed it!

    Has anyone else had similar problems like this? The dealership near me (which I do not like) told me that they replace gas doors 1 -2 times a week there! What's up with gas doors on Nissans!!!!!!! Has anyone had this problem found an answer to this cycle??!!
  • nissantech8yrnissantech8yr Member Posts: 18
    you should just have to replace the rear motor mount to correct the problem
  • nissantech8yrnissantech8yr Member Posts: 18
    it will most likely be a o2 sensor or the vent contol valve
  • nissantech8yrnissantech8yr Member Posts: 18
    you need a new starter
  • nissantech8yrnissantech8yr Member Posts: 18
    fan speed will not go to high untill the car is warmed up because it would be blowing cold air
  • nissantech8yrnissantech8yr Member Posts: 18
    the dealer will need to reset the limit switch on the window motor
  • nissantech8yrnissantech8yr Member Posts: 18
    you also need to have the ecm reprogramed by the dealer
  • dirkworkdirkwork Member Posts: 210
    Shaking engine on start

    Could be fuel mixture related, something with fuel injection, a sensor, etc.

    Could be something serious like coolant leaking into cylinders from head gasket and taking a second to burn itself out the exhaust.

    You might want to get it looked at.

    DD
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