Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

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Comments

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    They are required in UK and Germany. People over there actually know to use them only in FOGGY conditions. Over here you see rear fogs on audi, volvo, jags. And There are usually some dumbasses driving with them on blinding the drivers behind them. My guess is that it's setup for sale over there.

    -mike
  • bryancosbryancos Member Posts: 282
    CPUFIXER,
    I don't know that they sell smoked taillight assemblies, but I was able to get a set of smoked tail light covers (available slotted or solid) from Autoventshade for my pewter 2002 Envoy. (I special ordered from jcwhitney.com) I have photos that I'll post when I get home today. Note that there may be local or state restrictions for using tail light covers, and it's a good idea (for safety sake) to install halogen replacement bulbs in the brake lights so that intensity remains the same as stock. My brake lights and turn signals are fully visible in bright sunlight even with the covers installed... The effect is comparable to the "smoked" tail lights that you see on the old Chevy Barettas: Blacked out when off, but fully visible when in use.

    7098 of 7180 Envoy Smoked Tail Lights by cpufixer1 Aug 15, 2002 (08:33 am)
    Does anyone know where I can get smoked tail lights for my '02 Envoy ? I have seen them on one truck and can't seem to find them anywhere on the internet.
  • bakednutbakednut Member Posts: 17
    I think the only things that diffenciate the northface edition and the regular version is the body color, different leather seats, badging and some northface gear here and there (duffle-bags and blankets). But just as the Avalanche there is NOTHING that will make it beneficial for touring in the wilderness. i wish chevy would give the tb an air compressor like the envoy though.
  • bravadajonbravadajon Member Posts: 60
    My front driver side door on my 2002 Bravada clunks too! I will check my latches as suggested and report back. I had the auto to the dealer when I first bought it and they "could not reproduce" the problem. The noise is getting louder.
  • calucykcalucyk Member Posts: 35
    I think you will find that as the vehicle ages, the clunk will get worse. This is because the rubber stop will break down to a point where it will be rendered useless. If only the body catch extended further into the door latch, resulting in a larger contact area, this would not be a problem. I know how to fix this one... I guess I could write the TSB for GM. Look at the body catch, it has a single spacer. If you were to add additional spacers, it would force the body catch to extend further into the door latch. Couple this with the replacement of the latch rubber stop and problem solved.

    Question for TB and Envoy owners, why doesn't the front doors on your vehicles clunk? What's different between the designs? Can someone take pictures and post them on the internet? I can do the same for my vehicle.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    Sounds like GM is "Eddie Bauer"ing the TrailBlazer.
  • tblazer503tblazer503 Member Posts: 620
    removed the body catches and put a washer in them, not very professional, but what the hey. The nuts in the pillar are welded in place, so they dont come off. put some washers that had to be about 1/16" thick, and when I tightened bolts (w/ loctite) pushed the catch as far back as possible(recessed screws) Then I noticed that I, too had my rubber all broken up... had a fix for that too(very cheesy) measured out the hole, and rolled up some duck tape. only about 1/8" thick, and put that in front of the rubber. Seems to have fixed the problem. I drove down a cement road with all the lines cut into it, you know the kind, where the door usually goes crazy with rattling, and no problem. I will say that the door was difficult to shut with the tape in there. but after driving around for about 10-15min, opened up door, and no problems shutting. The tape did have a nice groove where the body catch hits it. Hopefully this will be a decent temporary fix. If not, duck tape is cheap, and the washers cost me .09 ea. Total time was about 30 min including finding the roads and driving in shopping mall parking lots over all the speedbumps. =o)
  • jmw4jmw4 Member Posts: 67
    Any idea if the 3.73 axle is more common than the 3.42? If I were to buy another one of these I may lean toward the 3.73 as long as it could handle a 4500 lb. boat on the twice a year event I tow it. The highway mileage is fine for such a large vehicle but the 13 around town which is about 9 months worth of the driving is tough to take.
  • tblazer503tblazer503 Member Posts: 620
    I believe that the 373's are the standard gearing for the rear end and that the 342 and 410 is optional.
  • calucykcalucyk Member Posts: 35
    Funny you should mention your temporary solution. Last night, after I figured out the cause of the clunk, I did the same thing as you, except I used electrical tape (plastic tape). I rolled up a 1/8" diameter piece, cut it to length and inserted it into position. I didn't go as far as you and add additional washers to the body catch. What do you plan to do next in regards to a permanent solution?
  • bravadajonbravadajon Member Posts: 60
    I checked my Bravada latches tonight. On the body pillar is a double pin (all doors). In the doors is a latch, but I see no rubber components. It looks like the latch just catches the first pin on the door pillar post. I could take a digital pic of the latch and post it..but can I do it here?
    I have a 9-2001 issue of Motor Trend where they test drove the new Envoy...they noted that the doors rattled on the latches when on washboard gravel.
  • johntrjohntr Member Posts: 71
    The belt is working as designed. What happens is that when the belt is pulled out all way, the child seat restraint system is engaged. When this occurs, the belt has to retract all the way back into the seat to disengage. I think the manual does describes this in more detail as well.

    I remember a while back about someome mentioning a point to lube just under the hood. I think it had to do with apply a little grease to the rubber hood mounts.

    = = = = =
    sjewell wrote on Aug 20, 2002 (05:33 pm):
    does anyone have a problem with the passenger side restraint tightening up on them mine will almost suffocate you, everytime you move it get's tighter, also I had one more problem that was a squeak coming from the front area of the truck it will go away for a few day's after you open the hood, other than that this is the best vechical I have ever owned. I have enjoyed the site even though I only found it today.
  • mhenderson1mhenderson1 Member Posts: 164
    Does anyone know if there were many changes to the 2003 Envoy other than HP. which would boost the price up considerably. I'm contemplating about buying the Envoy, but I do not want to pay more than the 2002s.
  • gmdronegmdrone Member Posts: 78
    Your doors are identical between the Envoy and TB. There is no difference between the vehicles. The latches, (door part) and the strikers (body part) are the same on both styles. The "dog bone" striker is only designed to latch on the primary post, the outboard one. The inboard pin is supposed to limit the amount of torsional travel of the door about the striker,thereby limiting "chucking" of the door. If you add washers to the striker plate asm. to make the striker intrude farther into the latch, you are basically doing the same thing as the pattern shims that they use at the assembly plant. I would caution you on how many washers you put in though, because in a side impact, if you have a lot of those washers stacked up, you are limiting the surface area of the anchor plate, thus opening up the possibility of the posts on the striker shearing the sheet metal, causing your latch to disengage, and opening the door. It would depend on how much of the bolts are exposed, but I wouldn't recommend allowing any more than 1/16" to be exposed. The shims are available from your dealer, I can't say how much, but typically they are not very expensive.
    The rubber bumper that you refer to is known as an "overslam" bumper, and is really designed to keep the door from bending/damaging the latch when you slam the door. The door can be adjusted by actually bending the striker assembly with a pry bar or similar tool in the appropriate direction, this is how we typically adjust a door at the rear for closing effort and for minor fit problems on the final line. It is a real art form to watch an assembly guy fit doors like that at 70 jobs per hour! The rubber is NOT designed to hold the door off of the striker, though, and I really wouldn't reccomend putting electrical or duct tape in the latch, it will eventually attract dirt/dust etc., and eventually gum up the latch. As I would assume your vehicles are under warranty, any decent bodyshop guy should be able to make your door close and be rattle free with about 5 minutes of labor per door. If your dealer doesn't want to deal with it, find another one who does. We try hard to make sure that the fit/effort that you get is as good as we can make it, but I have seen some real horror cases too. Let me know if you can't get satisfaction from your dealer, I can always make a phone call.

    Regards,

    Mark
  • fastbackfastback Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2002 Ls TB I just noticed that around 50 mph to 60 mph there is a slight vibration in the vehicle I feel it in the steering wheel and on the gas pedal. does anybody have the same issues.
  • caldwell52caldwell52 Member Posts: 7
    I haven't researched the Envoy, but to get a 2003 Trailblazer with the same options as my 2002 the price increase is $900+. My trailblazer was produced in July of 2002. To me, with almost no differences in the two years, I'm glad I purchased my 2002 earlier this month. The only exception I can see is if you want an EXT/XL model with the V-8 offered this fall.

    Just my two cents worth.

    Just my 2 cent's worth.
  • m2icemanm2iceman Member Posts: 27
    I have read a couple posts concerning the issue, and I did it myself with some suggestions from other groups. No need to heat with hair dryer for 30 mins. Just use some 10 or 15 lb test fishing line and some WD40. Use the line to get in behind the badge and work it like a saw until you go through the entire badge. Good for a keepsake. After taking it off, use the WD40 to take the adhesive off. I just used my thumb nail and it came off easy. Took 10-15 minutes for everything on the back hatch.
  • calucykcalucyk Member Posts: 35
    Thanks for thorough explanation on door latches? I plan to remove the electrical tape this afternoon, then visit my dealership for a permanent solution.

    We (the entire board) appreciate your time you take to watch over this forum and provide "insider" information when necessary. It's folks like yourself that make a difference.

    Thanks again! Tony
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    "2003 Trailblazer price increase is $900+ with the same options as 2002 Trailblazer (that) was produced in July of 2002 .."

    And that July '02 TB price was about $980 more than mine that was produced in November '01! I am comparing base prices. Better hurry before inflation kicks in!
  • sildogsildog Member Posts: 50
    You are the first other person who has posted about changing the stereo head unit in a TB. I did mine in January and am still uncertain about something the aftermarket car sound shop told me. They said the factory head unit had to stay in the truck or certain key features would not function (like airbags!)! They sold me a $100 wiring harness to relocate the factory head unit to the rear of the truck. All was fine until my aftermarket was stolen and all the dash wiring was screwed up. Guess what? Everything still worked without this wiring hooked up to factory radio, so I put it all back together without the factory radio in the back and all seems to work. Did you do the work yourself? Did you relocate the factory radio? The dealer never helped with any information.
  • lurker01lurker01 Member Posts: 103
    Just wanted to chime in an say that I am getting decent mileage with my Envoy and the 4.10 gears. I am getting 17-18 with mixed stop and go and freeway. I live in a hilly area too. I do try to focus on having a light foot as well. I leave the instant mpg display up sometimes to remind me.
    I have noticed that if I kick the engine to do a fast start or power up a hill quickly, the mileage will take a hit. But the truck sure does move when you do this! Getting on the freeway this morning for the last part of my commute, I gave it the gas to get around a semi and some traffice and when I glanced down, I was up to 85 in less than a 1/3 mile.
    I also have noted that the mpg has gotten better over time. I am pushing 15k right now. Perhaps the engine has 'broken in' or maybe it is the summer gas vs winter gas. I stick with 87 octane but have noticed better mpg when not using the cheapest gas I can find. But, that could all be in my mind. The mileage when I first got the truck was 15-16 on the same route that I not get the 17-18.

    On another note, I have noticed the transmission makeing a loud 'clunk' when sitting at a light. It seems like it is shifting into 1st or something but not doing this gracefully. The truck goes fine once the light turns green but this does concern me a bit. Anyone else ever feel this?

    thanks,

    -John
  • tblazer503tblazer503 Member Posts: 620
    check out this link:

    http://service.gm.com/gmtechlink/Sept2001/articles/radioswap.html

    Found it while perusing online for Trailblazer things. hope this helps ya.
  • kimodokimodo Member Posts: 44
    Tblazer503: thanks for the link.
    sildog: I installed a new head unit myself. Was a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] kinda cause I had to take the left dash apart, unlike hondas where you can just take the factory radio out. As far as lossing any functions, I did some research and found some sites and links but can't recall them. You should check out www.sounddomain.com. They have a member's page where you can see pages from people who have done some nice thing to their TB. You can go to the forum and do a search on Tb head unit installs also, that's where I got my info.
    From what I understand, others say that there are certain vehicles where you might lose your airbags, but that isn't the case with the triplets, which is confirmed by the link posted by Tblazer503, which says nothing about airbags.
    I have an LS with no onstar, so the only thing which I noticed that I have lost are those horrid chimes for the door and such, which is totally fine by me.
    Also, I ordered the head unit through crutchfield, and if there was any incompatibility or any problems, I'm sure they would have alerted me to it, since they are a pretty good company. I put in a pair of speakers also, MBquart and am running an amp powering those speakers and a sub. The sound is great. I recall that you have onstar in your car, but I can't comment on that since I don't have it. Concerning the issue of airbags, I wouldn't put too much thought into that. Hope this helps.
  • macman246macman246 Member Posts: 118
    First a note to gmdrone: We all really appreciate your contributions to this board. Thank you!

    My '02 Envoy stalled for the first time at a stop light Monday with the "Low oil pressure, stop engine" warning. No check engine light, no other warnings, OnStar did not read any error codes. My first real problem in 10K miles. Restarted just fine, oil pressure normal, made it home and checked the oil level, which was full.

    Prior to this I consistently noticed a slight shuddering at the first stop light I hit after work, whenever the air compressor adjusted the suspension. Seems like the idle would dip down when the compressor kicked in, then the idle would come back up. (Note: your Bose audio needs to be *off* to hear the compressor.) The shuddering seemed to occur when the idle hit the lowest point. I attributed this to the engine not being completely warmed up, because this behavior would go away further into my commute. But on Monday I was 6 miles from work, so the engine should have been warmed up by then.

    Drove to GMC dealer Wednesday without any problems. Dealer noted a PCM fault and said they replaced it. However, the part number according to GMPartsDirect.com says it's the "Emission Control System Hardware" (P/N 12576463, $495 plus labor, but covered under warranty, this time).

    So I don't know if I got a new PCM or ECM, but in any case hopefully it's fixed. We'll see tonight on my way home.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    When I was looking for my TB all I could find in D-FW area was 3.73's on vehicles equipped the way I wanted (2WD,LS, 1SC pkg and locking dif in the color combo I wanted) That's why I had to go 210 mi north out of state to OK City to get what I was convinced from the specs I wanted. As I recall from the towing capability specs, the 3.42 is rated at 5400 lbs., 3.73 5900lbs., and 4.10 6400lbs. Those specs are why I went with the 3.42- because I will not be towing anything. Figured the 3.42 gears would yield better mileage and still have plenty of performance. Live and learn.

    Glad to see Mark "gmdrone" is still there lurking in the background!

    They sure could have done better on the little cheapo foam rectangle "gaskets" under the outer rear liftgate handle! Should have been made out of UV resistant rubber, not that foam junk, and made to press-fit into the holes, not stuck to the surface with adhesive that doesn't hold. In 7 months, mine have curled and distorted in shape badly and now the handle edge is making a wear line in the paint underneath.
  • macman246macman246 Member Posts: 118
    While getting my PCM (or ECM) replaced, I had the opportunity to rent a Ford Focus at Enterprise, courtesy of the GMC dealer. Nah, too small, so for $10 I upgraded to a brand new base-model '03 DeVille with only 800 miles on it.

    Power: The Northstar 4.6L V8 hauls, once it gets going. It's quiet unless you really push it, and the tranny was smooth as silk. However, my Envoy just feels faster off the line and more torquey. MPG was about the same for both, around 17 in city driving.

    Suspension: At first on normal city streets, both felt about the same: really smooth. Then I took the DeVille home via a shortcut, where the road department installed 14 speed bumps to slow us down. Speed bumps? What speed bumps? The DeVille literally sailed right over them. Pot holes? Didn't feel any.

    Brakes: They felt about the same. They did the job but not really outstanding on either vehicle.

    Audio: The DeVille had the stock system with 6 speakers PLUS what looked like 2 center channel speakers in front and back. Cranking it up produced acceptable sound comparable to the Envoy's Bose system, but with much boomy bass than the Envoy's. Both systems will rattle your mirrors, however. The DeVille also has a satellite radio option, which wasn't hooked up of course because it was a rental.

    Mirrors: Speaking of mirrors, the base model DeVille has power mirrors, but no driver memory settings, so no wandering here. The DeVille's mirrors also have the red LED turn signals in the mirror glass (very cool!), and seemed brighter than the Envoy's amber turn signals located below the mirrors.

    Looks: Wow, what a huge land yacht! It didn't fit in my garage last night (it's 16" longer than the Envoy), so I had to leave it out in the driveway for the neighbors to drool over. The outside is boring, but what can you do with a full size sedan anyway. The Envoy has it beat there. The Caddy hood ornament was distracting while driving, and partially blocks your view in front. If I actually owned this car I would consider removing it. But then it wouldn't really be a Caddy anymore. The twin dual exhaust pipes hint at the power under the hood (which wasn't any better than the Envoy's), but seems like a mismatch for a luxury car.

    Comfort: The DeVille's passenger compartment is roomier and plusher than the Envoy's. The leather seats were much softer and kept me from sliding on really curvy roads, although I couldn't find a comfortable position for the seat back. Getting in and out is hard to do since it's so much lower to the ground. The puddle lights under each door is a nice touch. The simulated wood used inside is the same as the Envoy's. The dash is nicely laid out, no gauges here, everything's electronic. The speed display is a bit distracting since the numbers constantly change while slowing down and speeding up. All the displays were green, which seems so 80's, and a step below the Envoy's blue microwave-ish displays (which I happen to like). Florescent white displays on black would look much nicer. Trunk space is massive, but you can't haul a washing machine home in it.

    Maneuverability: It's a boat, so of course it couldn't handle the u-turn I have to pull after picking up my mail at the corner. The Envoy has it beat there. However, despite it's size, parking the DeVille was easier because you don't have to crank the steering wheel around as much as the Envoy.

    Overall: I was pretty impressed, but would rather spend my $46K on a Lexus, if I had $46K. I'm still really happy with my Envoy SLT after almost 12 months. For a lot less money, I think the power and comfort is comparable. Maybe in 30 years when I retire and spend the kids' inheritance I'll opt for a luxury boat.
  • cwhawkcwhawk Member Posts: 38
    Do you have EPA mileage figures for TBs with each rear end ratio? All stickers reflect 16 City and 23 Highway, but it makes sense that a 3.42 has to get better highway mileage than a 3.73 or 4.10. If you can find any specifics, I would like to know the difference. Thanks.
  • jmw4jmw4 Member Posts: 67
    Having been one of the early purchasers of the TB and with 19,000 miles now on it I have been doing a little research on potential trade in value. Although there is no rush and the vehicle has been generally ok, I really do not want to keep the TB beyond the factory warranty given all the electronics and issues as discussed on this board. What I have found on trade value is not a good story. On an LT, that listed for $33,300 which I bought for a good price at $30,100, I was unofficially quoted true trade value by a Chevy dealer at $19,000 --$20,000. Obviously the 0% financing plays a major role but I would also assume the bad press on the recalls and the issues we have all discussed here is a factor. Looks like I will keep my TB with the occassional fan noise and squeaky front end for another year and load up on some more miles. These issues, although somewhat annoying seem minor compared to the AC issue and other problems on the board.
  • jurassic3kjurassic3k Member Posts: 13
    Can someone please get me the part numbers for all 4 of the paintable door handles for my 2002 Envoy.
    Thanks
  • adjguyadjguy Member Posts: 10
    Noticed the big gap in grill area at the front. GMC now puts the antenna on the front fender and is now a whip style kind, ugggh. You can now turn off the DRL by turning the headlamp knob back towards the off position, will stay on till you turn it off. Still has the 18 gallon fuel tank, bummer. I use to have the 02' with 4.10, now have the 3.73, noticable tourqe loss, wish I would have stayed with the 4.10.Thats all I can think of right now, pretty dissapointed though. will post more as I go.

    ADJGUY
  • polarbear6polarbear6 Member Posts: 16
    To fastback:
    We have the same vibration ( post 6902), however dealer could not duplicate the problem.

    Our AC has been fine since they "recovered and added dye, and recharged". Said it was a little low. at the same time we complained that the rear ac controls had stopped working. They found bulletin 02-01-39-003 to replace rear HVAC control. 3 weeks later the part they ordered or was sent was the wrong one, manual not automatic so I am still waiting. But the unit only failed once that we know about. Also had a headlight replaced and taillight cover replaced that had cracked. I am still waiting to receive our first customer survey form. We bought this car and our 2000 Suburban from a different dealer than the repairs are being done at and no form from either of them. A neighbor who works at yet another dealer says that anything other than satisfactory will get their attention. We still have problems with the hatch not always unlocking when removing the key.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    You will likely get better reception, though, with the external whip-type antenna. A matter of the electrical properties and characteristics of antennas. I prefer the vertical whip-type antenna because of this. Had 2 GM cars in the 70's with the antenna integrated into the windshield. Lousy peformance. Was somewhat directional too. Turn a corner and reception would typically change either better or worse.
  • babyshoesbabyshoes Member Posts: 23
    Just thumbed through an issue of this magazine and saw the feature of Trail Blazers. Then they went into all the bolt-ons available. Nice trucks!
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    adjguy: "You can now turn off the DRL by turning the headlamp knob back towards the off position"

    Does this turn them off until you decide to turn them back on, or is it just for that one time until you stop and restart the vehicle? Sounds like it is at least better than having to push the dome override 4 times to do it.

    There are whole web sites about DRLs and people not happy about them.

    I am still annoyed daily about the automatic headlights coming on before I start the engine when I am in my garage even though it is full daylight outside (unless I pull the brake handle up a notch). I do not understand that logic. Why the engineers would not have them come on until AFTER the engine is running is beyond me. All these unnecessary on-off cycles will certainly shorten the life of the lamps.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    What month issue is that in?
  • liam56liam56 Member Posts: 2
    Have owned this Bravada since new, 40,000 trouble free miles. Turn signal appears to be working normally, lights work... returns to home position after turn. Problem... audio indicator continues to sound intermittently, driving my wife nuts!!
    Dealer wants 300 bucks for new turn signal component and 100 bucks to install. This seems CRAZY !! Must be a little speaker wire I can clip.... Help, anyone???
    Bill
  • mdeymdey Member Posts: 90
    3.73 rear end is all that was available in the LS 3SC model I was looking for, or at least that I could find. I drove a rental model with the 3.42 before buying my TB. The difference in RPMs at 70 mph was about 150 to 200 rpms. That just isn't enought to make a huge difference in mileage. My 3.73-equiped model came with a sticker quoting 17 mpg city, 21 mpg highway. I think the 3.42 models came with a sticker quoting 22 mpg highway.

    I think the real issue here is that SUVs have become a car/truck hybrid. For those of you used to driving cars, the gas mileage sucks and you are not going to beat a Honda Civic off the line. But I can tell you from experience that 17 and 21 is pretty good for a truck, any truck, even a Toyota 4-banger. If you are getting less, consider your local driving conditions, the type of fuel you may be buying, and the weight of the lead in your right foot.

    My issue with the TB is that it is not enough like a truck in some respects. This is particularly apparent in the transmission. Stout to be sure, and it lays the power out to the wheels well, but it doesn't have enough options. In the TrailBlazer there is overdrive and third gear, but third gear takes the lock up feature of the torque converter away.

    In the 92 Explorer I have (160 hp on a good day), there is overdrive and drive, plus the lower gears. The advantage of the Ford is that the "drive" selection still allows the torque converter to lock up, and the transfer case shortens the gears somewhat. When pulling a trailer or just driving around town, I select driver and that adds 500 rpms to a truck with a 3.23 rear end--a huge boost in performance. When pulling a trailer at 70 mph in drive that truck turns 2800 rpms, pulls hills marvelously, cools well, with barely an increase in exhaust sound. And the gas mileage is only slightly off from non-trailering trips in overdrive.

    On the TB, pull that baby out of overdrive and the rpms vary dramatically, exhaust sound goes up a bunch, mileage tanks, and the temp gauge rises. But then again it's a hybrid of a car and a truck. I knew that when I bought it. And that's why I kept the Explorer. I pull most of the time with that, and I drive the TrailBlazer from one end of the state to the other. Great highway vehicle.
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Member Posts: 311
    I noticed that there are no visable bolts on the door hinges for adjustment. My drivers side front door needs to be moved up about 1/4" to be aligned with the rear door and weatherstrip. I have doon bodywork in the past and figure that the bolts must be on the inside of the door. Has anyone had the door apart noticed the bolts or have the factory repair manual. I don't think they are welded in-place, there has to be some mechanism for adjustments.
  • ron_mron_m Member Posts: 186
    liam56,

    Please let us know if you find out the solution to the problem that you described. My 02' TB has
    the exact same problem--along with myriad other
    problems! Now when I get in the vehicle, there is
    a humming noise that starts up from the small
    speaker above the driver's side front seat backrest. This just started yesterday--as it has
    never been like this before. I agree with your
    wife, the intermittent audible clicks that can continue a pretty good while after a signal cancel can be annoying. There are definitely some
    electronics issues with some of the Triplets.

    If I find out anything regarding the signal problem I'll post it here as well.
  • dragonhead08dragonhead08 Member Posts: 34
    ok, had to edit my post due to questionable language.

    ok, gotta vent here. I took my TB in on monday to have the rear gasket fix done again for the 3rd time. Damn thing keeps shrinking and folding up underneath the housing. So anyways I had GM customer service contact the dealer before I brought it in because whatever the dealer was doing it wasnt working. So anyways the guy who helped me from GM was really nice and spoke with the service manager to try and get this sorted. So I bring it in on monday and ask them to check why it had trouble downshifting at highway speeds and an intermitant flash of the "service 4wd" and "abs" light. So I call them ths afternoon to check on it and it turns out they just finished the mechanical work and it would go into the body shop on monday to be reapinted. Then heres the clincher, he goes on to tell me that because I changed my back up bulbs to LED's it burnt out the circuit panel on the left hand tailight and that was trippin out the computer. Then he goes on to say that they were charging me for the part and labor totaling $177.89. you got to be kidding!!! I'm calling my rep from GM on monday and ask him to get this sorted out. Feels like the dealers tryin to get some money outta me for having called GM on em for doing a lousy job over and over again. $180.00 for changing a stupid 3157 bulb.
  • adjguyadjguy Member Posts: 10
    The DRL running lights still come on exactly like they did on the 2002 model. But if you twist the headlamp knob to the left, it turns off the DRL's untill you shut the vehicle off, then it resets, then you have to go through the same process again when you start your vehicle next time.

    As for the whip antenna, yes it might work better. But the vehicle doesnt nearly have as clean as a look as it did before. Would much rather it still been glued to the back window.

    Heres another thing i just noticed. I dont have a light in the engine compartment when I raise the hood, I had one in my 2002. GMC cutbacks?

    ADJGUY
  • limbuslimbus Member Posts: 7
    All vehicles are not as valuable as they used to be at trading time. Key to finding a good deal is to not even talk about your trade right away. If they really want to sell a vehicle, dealers find a way to "give" you a reasonable deal.

    We just traded in 2 cars: July and August and got good value for both. They were immaculate and well maintained. We found motivated dealers and used the opportunity for 0% interest. We looked at a couple different manufacturers offering this great rate and struck while there still was some depth to 2002 inventory. We had just read that the 2003's will be priced with more al a carte type add ons that were part of standard packages with the 2002's. Did the dealers loose? Hardly, but everyone walked away happy. It was the first time I had every traded a vehicle that was just over 1 year old and only had 4,000 miles on it (my old one). We broke even on it which was pretty amazing considering this car did have an interest rate of 4.9%! If you are really unhappy with your 2002, you might want to look, but think you will not get a great deal on a 2003.

    I am thrilled with my new LTZ. Hope to continue to feel this way for about 5 years .
  • tblazer503tblazer503 Member Posts: 620
    why dont you ask them which components are burnt, and ask them to show you. Then do it yourself. =) The other option is to just buy a regular set of back up lights, stick them in, and bring in the truck to another dealer. I just wouldn't recommend putting the LED's back in. Curious to find out how the LED fried the board, since the taillight assy seems pretty straight forward, and not very different from any other that I have seen in the way of lighting. Perhaps the keyless entry system had something to do with it, since it triggers that backup lights... maybe its just confused. I would definitely ask how this happened since the LED's work on the same voltage and lower current than the OE 3157's. I would think that lower current would prevent damaging circuitry....
  • nuyorkahnuyorkah Member Posts: 100
    For Triplets built prior to VIN Break 22375120(last 8 of VIN). If You feel your front fascia (bumper) is a little too loose they now have updated braces to fix the problem.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    "The advantage of the Ford is that the "drive" selection still allows the torque converter to lock up". My TrailBlazer locks the torque converter in "3" (drive) as well as "D" (overdrive). I usually use the non-OD "3" position when driving around the city under 45 mph. Before anyone says anything, I have checked in-town gas mileage doing it both ways- no significant difference.

    RE: Whip antenna "the vehicle doesn't nearly have as clean as a look as it did before". All in the eye of the beholder. As a ham radio operator I actually like the antenna and I understand the technical reasons why it works better. You'd really dislike my TB with a 30 inch glass-mount antenna that has a coil in the middle of it, mounted where the OnStar antenna would go if I had that. ( I actually had my garage built with a 10-foot high door to accommodate my vehicles with antennas!)

    Too bad about the engine compartment light gone on the 2003. That is a nice feature to have. It's nice the way it times out and turns off in about 10 min if you leave the hood up.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    For one that close to "list" (in my opinion) I would absolutely NOT buy a dealer demo. Probably not the easiest first 500 break-in miles put on it. You ought to be able to get a brand-new one with almost "0" miles for about 10% off list. 1st time I ran into a documentation fee was on the purchase of my TrailBlazer out of state in Oklahoma (I live in Texas). They charged me $89.50, even though I wrote a check and bought it outright, for basically doing the paperwork and mailing me the manufacturer's "Certificate of Origin" thru regular mail so I could title it in Texas,. PLUS they screwed up, overcharged me $500 that I caught later (the $500 deposit to hold it for me they somehow "forgot" to figure in while "processing" the paperwork) and I had to argue with them on 3 phone calls and three different prople to get them to refund the $500 with a check rather than crediting my GM-MasterCard that I had already paid off. Brings back memories... You can be certain the dealer survey I filled out reflected this! Anyway sorry for the story, but sounds like that's another way for them to make money on the purchase off a captive customer when you have already decided to buy and you are sitting there in the sales office.
  • pepper50pepper50 Member Posts: 195
    I agree that the deal doesn't sound any better than you could get by selecting a new one or even ordering one that hasn't been demo'd. I assume you compared that price to the "invoice price" figued on Edmund's, etc. I, too, had to pay document charges of $55.00. Another thing to watch out for is "advertising fees". If your dealer is not in a regional advertising co-op, then there should be no advertising fee at all. If your dealer is in a co-op, then the advertising fee will be printed down near the bottom of the invoice printout near the destination charge; so ask to see the invoice printout. Most dealers in a metropolitan area do have co-op charges. In any case, the ad fee should never be over 1% at most. Individual dealers out in the country or in smaller towns may be able to avoid this fee. If a smalltown dealer tries to add an "advertising fee", then a warning buzzer should go off in your head. Dealer preparation charges are figured into the invoice price, so there should not be an additional charge for that either.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    You did say you replaced with "LED" back-up lights? LEDs will draw LESS current than a regular incandescent bulb unless they have a multi-LED array which would still take quite a few LEDs to draw current equal to the original bulb. A single white LED will draw about 25-30 milliamps (.025-.030 Amps) to turn on to full brightness. I have seen some replacement Quartz-Halogen back-up bulbs that are brighter (have had some in my old S-10 for years), they get hotter and they do pull more current. If you used LEDs sounds like they are out to get your wallet IMO.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    Also another thing to consider: If you aren't in a real hurry, after Sept 3 when the current incentives go away and sales slow down, the dealer might be more willing to deal. Just a thought. And keep in mind that the dealer invoice does not reflect the typical 3% holdback GM pays back to the dealer after the vehicle sells. That's 3% of the sticker price. The "actual cost" to the dealer of that $40,000 Envoy is likely about $34,700 +/- after all is done.
  • adjguyadjguy Member Posts: 10
    Got to tinkering with the lights last night and realized that GMC now allows the brights and the fog lamps to stay on at the same time on the 2003 model. My 2002 would not do this. This is one change I am extremely happy with.

    ADJGUY
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