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Chrysler Minivan Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • rogyordrogyord Posts: 2
    i recently bought a 91 plymouth voyager le allwheel drive with 134k it runs good and the transmission( 4 speed auto) is fine i have no idea if its been rebuilt or not,the fluid seems to be in good shape a nice red color but i was wanting to change the transmission filter,,,now here is the thing does it take dextron or the atf+4? what about an additive??or maybe should i just leave it alone being that its working ok??? :confuse: :blush:
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    You need to use only Chrysler transmission fluid that is recommended for that vehicle. There have been numerous cases of catastrophic transmission failure because non-Chrysler fluid was used for the fluid change. Good luck.
  • joshockeyjoshockey Posts: 13
    if your going to change the filter and gasket make sure you scrap the old gasket off ,dont nick into the metal just enough too get all the old loose crummy stuff of then put your new asket one (dont use any atv sealant just the gasket) using bothe defeats the purpose you can use a little in each corner to hold the gasket on the pan after putting the filter and new o ring on hand tighten all of the bolts to a snug and i mean snug fitting over tighting makes it worse if your fluid is red it should be fine to reuse but id recommend using new fluid atf+4 when filling your tranny up as its ideling crawl underneath of course it will leak a little because at this point this is when you need to completly tight/tourgue the bolts again do not overtighten just tighten your bolts now to where the gasket is sealing. after all is said and done here hop in and move your gear selector thru each gear at least 30 seconds to a minute thru each gear especially reverse when you have moved the selector thru all gears put in reverse dont give it any gas let it go in reverse ideling then put in drive and take it out for a drive dont dog it just enough to get the fluids thru the tranny. after about 20 miles get out and check your level if your a little low this is normal means all the fluid is in the convertor refill and you shold be good to go i own a 96 3.3ltr v6 with a 4 speed id also invest in the input and output sensors there very cheap and are very important to make sure are changed good luck wish i could find an all wheel drive. any other help let me know :)
  • joshockeyjoshockey Posts: 13
    sorry for that i really am intelligent i was just typing really fast. :(
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    First off.. YOU ARE WRONG chrysler transmissions come from the factory with ONLY RTV sealant for pan gaskets and side covers and it is not recommended to use any form of gasket on this transmission pan. as they are prone to leaks. use only rtv sealant and a high quality sealant such as locktite 598 or 599 ultra grey... sorry to bust your chops. but the rest of yourr info is good about the input and output speed sensors.....
  • rogyordrogyord Posts: 2
    thanks for the info,,ok now where do i find these input and output sensors??? are they a dealer item or can i find them at the local auto parts store???
  • hugefirehugefire Posts: 3
    If you search this forum for the problem, you will see that it's not uncommon, and usually occurs after a transmission fluid change. For some reason, the Transmission Control Module (TCM) senses a loss of prime in the transmission and the problem shows up. I have an 03 T&C and it was doing the same thing. Took it to local AAMCO and they cleared a "battery disconnect" code and then reset the TCM and the problem was solved. I would take yours somewhere to have the TCM reset before trying anything else.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Sorry, but I've got to push back on this one. I've removed the RTV from any number of Chrysler vans (as part of a tranny oil and filter change), and have always used conventional gaskets when putting it back together. The truth is that I've yet to see a single aftermarket gasket leak, however, I just did a van a couple of days ago that had fluid leaking past the factory RTV gasket. My personal take on this is that I think evil thoughts directed toward the individual(s) that decided to use RTV whenever I'm faced with a pan drop on a transmission with a pan sealed with RTV.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    to each his own. ive been rebuilding transmissions 28 years or so and attending seminars both factory and aftermarket atsg atra just to name a few and from the factory ALL front wheel drive transmissions that chrysler built ie: 404,413,470,670,604,606 all came from the factory with rtv sealant and the transmission overhaul kits DO NOT come with any type of pan gaskets. I wont argue with you about it one bit, these trans's need "quality" rtv on the pans and no pan gasket. thats the factory recommended setup, and thats the way I have been building these transmissions all of my life.

    Cheers
    gene
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    i suggest for you to only use oem speed sensors since some of the aftermarket are of much less quality and theres only a cpl bucks difference in price dealership for these parts
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    ...these trans's need "quality" rtv on the pans and no pan gasket.

    They need RTV??? Please explain. While I don't deny that they need something to keep the ATF+4 sealed inside the transmission, I truly don't understandy why they'd need RTV as opposed to a gasket. :confuse:

    By the way, I've been wrenching for over three decades too so it's not like I'm spouting something that I read elsewhere on the internet.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    at 1 time many years ago back in the early 90's i made the mistake of putting a pan gasket on a 604 transaxle that ended up goin back to the dealership for another issue and when the dealership noted the pangasket on the trans pan they voided that customers warranty.. that was then this is now but ever since then i have stayed on the factory guidelines. just to keep customers cars up to snuff

    Cheers
    Gene
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    A few points...

    1) Back in the early 1990s most non-dealership shops (and sadly to say, many dealerships as well) were not using the proper Mopar ATF, and as such, many dealerships (those that did use the proper ATF) took issue with transmissions that they hadn't serviced. The gasket instead of RTV was apparently a top-off to them that somebody else had service the tranny.

    2) Had that transmission failed, it would have been up to the dealership to prove that it was the gasket that caused the failure, and failing that, most any court in the land would have forced them to honor the warranty. That said, if they could also show that Dextron or Mercon was in the transmission, then all bets would have been off.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    still doesn't change the fact that the "PROPER" service procedure for chysler front wheel drive transaxles calls for RTV and no pan gasket. thats why the pan is flat with no dimples and the case is machined flat also. nuff said on this subject

    cheers
    gene
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Sorry to bring this up again, but if the 41TE "NEEDS" an RTV gasket to be "PROPERLY" serviced, and reassembled, then why-o-why does Chrysler themselves make and sell a rubber transmission gasket?

    https://www.dodgeparts.com/oe_parts_catalog.html (look up part number: 5011115AA)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    lets just put this to rest shall we.... go BUY and READ the factory manual sir. until then put this to rest.

    cheers gene
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    There is ALWAYS more than one way to solve a problem, so neither of you has to be wrong about it.

    As my dear-departed father used to say (field engineer for Packard) when asked for his "proof" of a certain procedure, he used to say:

    "My proof is at the end of my wrench".
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    He-he, good quote. ;)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    This just in, I've been apprised of existence of a TSB that addresses this issue.

    ============================================================

    TSB 21-05-99

    DISCUSSION:
    A reusable silicone gasket has been developed to replace the RTV method of sealing the automatic transmission oil pan. Due to more frequent Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) change intervals and the possibility of the fluid foaming if it comes in contact with uncured RTV it is recommended that this gasket be used in all applications.

    NOTE: THIS GASKET CAN BE REUSED UP TO THREE (3) TIMES.

    PARTS REQUIRED:
    **1 -- 05011113AA -- Gasket, Transmission Oil Pan, 31TH**
    **1 -- 05011114AA -- Gasket, Transmission Oil Pan, 42LE**
    1 ----- 05011115AA -- Gasket, Transmission Oil Pan, 41TE/AE

    Form TSB-004 Rev. 1.05

    DaimlerChrysler Corporation
    Dealer Technical Operations


    ============================================================

    It seems that it was true that RTV was the desired methodology for sealing the transmission oil pan at one point, however, it seems that this TSB has superseded the factory manual. Said another way, a silicone gasket is now the "PROPER" way to seal the pan.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    well then i was right yet i was wrong geeze.. cant win for losing

    cheers

    gene
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    I can sympathize, I've been in the same boat lots of times. Ain't it annoying?

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Symptoms-check engine light-code P016 (or P0116? I can't remember now that I'm sitting here) definition-cam/crank sensor correlation. When the van gets up to temperature, the RPM won't go over 3500. Once it gets up there, the van starts bucking and shaking and eventually clunks under the hood and downshifts. I replaced the the cam sensor, crank sensor, full tune-up with plugs and wires. Checked for vaccuum leaks and checked EGR. Once it downshifts, if you try to accelerate again right away, then the RPM goes up but the van doesn't go any faster. Broke down and took it to the dealership today and they don't know what is wrong with it either. (nice...) Anyway, they want to put in a new catalytic converter and test it again, but I can't see just putting in a part $1000 just to "try it". Anyone else had this problem. I can put the CC in myself but again, I'm just throwing parts at it. Thanks in advance.
  • qakeithqakeith Posts: 1
    I think I may have read something about this in the forum but I wanted to ask anyway. My 2007 T&C has 25k miles (bought it used at the dealer with 18k in Dec 07) and have had it about 6 months. I recently noticed that around 30 mph and going slightly uphill and just giving it the gas a little to maintain 30 the transmission seems to groan and not want to downshift. It makes a whirling/groaning sound until I actually push down on the accelerator to force it to downshift. Has this happened to anyone? With the radio on I didn't notice it, but with it off I do. I do think that when I bought the van last December they changed the transmission fluid before I picked it up. Not sure! It was a Dodge dealer.

    Thanks.

    Keith
  • mkoblismkoblis Posts: 2
    I have a Chrysler Voyager, with a 4 speed auto, and it goes into limp mode after two unsuccesful attempts to shift into third gear. It does shift, but winds freely, then as the rpm's drop, shifts back into second gear. I have read many threads discussing this exact same problem, with no real solutions, can you help me?
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    3rd gear failsafe is a broken hub in the trans .....time for O/H
  • jhillwigjhillwig Posts: 2
    PO16 CODE COMING UP,WHERE IS THE CORRELATION SENSOR,IS IT THE ECM
  • jhillwigjhillwig Posts: 2
    CODE P0016;AT 3500 RPMS THE VAN STARTS TO BUCK AND SHAKE CODE SAYS TIMING IS OFF BETWEEN THE CAM AND CRANK SENSOR HAVE CHANGED BOTH AND CHANGED TIMING CHAIN STILL THE SAME CODE SEEMS LIKE AT 3500 RPMS THE REV LIMITER IS KICKING IN.ANY IDEAS
  • jwp1775jwp1775 Posts: 6
    '97 GC Sport -- Runs perfectly unless the AC is on. Then I hear a loud growl that sounds like it is coming from the transmission. This is more prominent from a standing start that at highway speeds. However, I can make it stop at any time by just turning off the compressor.

    Any ideas?
  • jtmoparjtmopar Posts: 1
    try unhooking the wire to the a/c compressor clutch, Tape off the engine side so wire does not short or get caught in anything. retest for growl. No growl! suppect A/C clutch slip or compressor starting to fail
  • sjs7805sjs7805 Posts: 1
    I JUST got this fixed today...the computer needed to be "flashed". The dealer didn't want to do it, $80. They wanted to break open the engine and look at the timing chain, $400. I opted for the $80 fix and it worked so far. I drove about 100 miles today and didn't have any problems.
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    The catalytic converter should be covered by the federally mandated emissions warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles. If you're below 80,000 miles the converter should not cost you anything. See the following link.
    http://www.epa.gov/obd/warranties.htm#1
    Good luck.
  • jwp1775jwp1775 Posts: 6
    Can't I accomplish the same thing by turning off the A/C with the pushbutton? When I have done this, the growl stops.

    But how can I tell if it is the compressor or the A/C clutch?

    Could it be that the system is charged with the wrong refrigerant?

    Thanks.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    It's highly unlikely to be either the clutch or the way the system was charged (or for that matter what it was charged with). I'm thinking that a compressor is in your future, that said, the one on our 1998 started getting a little noisy about 80,000 miles ago, and it still works, and it still growls (although the truth is that we don't use A/C up here in New Hampshire for much more than two or three weeks a year).

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Sounds like a pulley bearing noise, probably the result of a slipping AC clutch that generated enough heat to burn out the bearing in the pulley. A bad compressor usually makes a hell of a racket not just a growl. By all means have this checked out right away at an AC shop. If you neglect it, the compressor could fail, and if the compressor seizes, you have a HUGE problem on your hands, since compressor debris contaminates the entire AC system, requiring all components in the system to be either replaced or cleaned. Big bucks on that one.
  • crtharpcrtharp Posts: 2
    help....I am having the same thing w/P0016 and at 3500 rpm it bucks. The Goodyear store changed the cam sensor and said to come back to try the crank sensor or it might be the timing chain. Please let me know if you found a solution.

    [email protected]
  • rajayrajay Posts: 1
    Hi
    I am new to the forum and new to the chrysler as well. I bought this 3.8 L T&C 4 months ago .It has 102K miles on it. 2 days ago I was overtakisng a car and the car just she toppped delivering the power to wheels . I pulled to side and same story . Engine revvs but Van does not more . I tried R as well. Trans fluid was clear and at correct level . I took it to an Indi and he has referred to me a transmission guy. What can be the issue. Will the transmission need a rebuild or is it some solonoid which can be replaced without
    opening the tranny.
    Regards
    rajay
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    Find a reputable transmission shop that will test the electronics and give you an honest appraisal. It might just be a module that needs replacing.

    My daughter had a Neon that was acting like the transmission was going bad. After calling around I found one shop that agreed to inspect it for free. It turned out to be a simple electronic component that was defective and it saved us a major repair bill.
  • sattysatty Posts: 6
    I have a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan that has a slight front end vibration that cannot be found but is tearing through tires. HELP! I have replaced the struts, sway bar bushings and end links, tie rods and most recently the entire rack. The van has 122k on it and has been great up till now and it is just one thing after another with the front end. I recently took the van in as the front left (drivers) tire was wearing out very quickly and I had noticed a slight vibration in the front end. I was told the rack was bad causing the vibration and the tire wear problem. After spending $1300.00 on repairs and two front tires the vibration is still there and I am now wearing out the new left tire. Dodge cannot find the problem and says everything looks and appears to be in good condition and again has no answer for the vibration and tire wear. The alignment has been re-done 4 different times to no avail/ with solving the problem. The last dodge mechanic said there is a very slight vibration on the front drives side axel possibly causing the problem but again not sure. Of course they want another small fortune to tear into the van with no guarantee it will solve the problem. The vibration is only felt at certain speeds although it most likely is always present as again it is wearing out the new tire on the drivers side. Could it be a wheel bearing? or axle ? Please help.
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    Could it be a wheel bearing? or axle ?

    Raise the front end and see if you can feel any lateral movement in the wheel when you try to wiggle it back and forth. There should not be any at all. I would suggest replacing the bearings if there is any movement felt.

    I would have thought that the mechanic would have already checked for something as easy as this.
  • sattysatty Posts: 6
    Thanks, I'll try that and let you know what I find.
  • sattysatty Posts: 6
    Would this be considered awheel bearing? Trying to locate the part, but can't find anything under wheel bearing?
  • sattysatty Posts: 6
    How do I repace the wheel hub bearing on a 02 GC. How hard is it? will I need the vehicle re aligned after install?
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    How do I repace the wheel hub bearing on a 02 GC.

    You can try a Google search for it or just click on the link below.

    Replace Wheel Bearing 2002 Grand Caravan

    Did you determine that the bearing was loose when you tried to wiggle the wheel? If it's not then replacing the bearings is not going to solve the problem.
  • sattysatty Posts: 6
    Just did and it doesn't appear to be loose, I wiggled up and down and side to side not play up and down and side to side was hard to tell as you have some stearing play but nothing seamed loose. Could it be the axle shaft bearing or entire axle? This just may be the death of me.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    I don't know about the 02 DC specifically, but usually the nut that holds the axle onto the hub is torqued to some god-awful value, like 250 ft-lbs. It takes a really big breaker bar or big air wrench to get it off. Then you have to remove and replace the bearing assy, which has to be pressed out and the new one pressed in. In order to slide the spindle assembly off the vehicle (which is what holds the bearings), most of the front end has to be taken apart. Then, have to reverse that whole process, making sure the axle nut is properly torqued (how may of us have a 250 ft-lb torque wrench). I do a lot of work on my cars, and I am not sure that's something I would try.
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    Just did and it doesn't appear to be loose, I wiggled up and down and side to side not play up and down and side to side was hard to tell as you have some stearing play but nothing seamed loose.

    To check for lateral movement, raise the front end off the ground. Grab the TOP of the tire with both hands and try to wiggle it back and forth toward you from the side of the vehicle. Compare any movement with the right front wheel.

    If there's no movement then replacing the bearings isn't going to fix the problem.
  • We replaced the catalytic converter and o2 sensor before the cat and it fixed the problem except that the exhaust manifold is cracked. (That's next). Another mechanic told me that he would have replaced the fuel regulator first to see if that was throwing off the o2 sensor and making the fuel run too rich/lean. Starting with the cat is a expensive guess. Luckily it worked for us... so far...
  • krock1krock1 Posts: 5
    I have an 02 that did this last year and then just stopped. Now it has started again almost 1 year later. how much did the dealer charge you to flash the TCM?
  • angnjasangnjas Posts: 2
    $350.00 but it worked.... and it has been running like a champ!
  • I have a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan. I need some help in figuring out what the problme is with it. Here are the "symptoms"...

    1. When you stop and give it the gas it sometimes turns completly off.
    2. The transmission doesn't seem to go into gear and sometimes jerks when it goes into gear. You can give it the gas and the engine sometimes revs, but it does not go into gear to get moving properly.

    We have no check engine lights, etc. on the control panel that are lit up. Something is definetly wrong. What do you all suggest I start checking?
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