I think I'll try this summer too. It's been a while since the last mod.
300michael - thanks for the info on the springs. I was considering Intrax, but the H&R's sound better after reading your email. Anyone try Eibach? Of course, they don't lower as much, right?
What wheels and tires are you using? I've got 18" wheels with 235/50x18 Michelin Pilot Sports. Just wondering if the lowering springs will cause any problem here.
Glad to hear more about lowering. I would like to lower my M also but scare the potential vibration. Another problem is that, I'm not a car guy at all, hoping to hear more. The huge gap is one of the imperfection to see from the side of the car, aarr.. I can live with it, it is not that worst. The worst is the narrow tires to view from the back, you need to view from a DISTANCE. It makes the M looks so dirt cheap even a Honda looks much better. Imagine a big car on small wheels, it is just ugly. Have anybody done anything on it? Or is this only my sense, haven't heard much talking on this? Or people in here get used to the American car looks? I'm interested to know.
Thanks for the tips, folks, but nothing seems to help. The lights on all four of the "Load/Eject" buttons and the light on the "Ready" button all still flash repeatedly. No problem playing CD-Rs, etc., because I can't even get a CD in it!! I've tried all manner of power disconnects, even disconnecting the battery, to no avail. Lights flash, and head unit reads "Err". Seller claims the unit worked fine prior to removal. Is there any sort of reset procedure? Is there any sort of code that needs to be entered into the unit? *Any* help/suggestions are welcome and appreciated!!
Chrysler describes a special shipping procedure that must be followed per the following Technical service bulletin.
My guess is that these shipping screws were not installed by the seller as he had no knowledge of this requirement, and the unit was damaged in shipping. Hopefully you can share this withthe seller and come to an understanding.
NOTE :THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH THE FOUR DISC CD CHANGER (SALES CODE RDW).
DISCUSSION:
The four disc CD Changer is serviced on an exchange basis with your local service center. When the replacement CD Changer arrives, four shipping screws must be removed before installation in order to allow the CD Changer to operate properly. The shipping screws secure the CD mechanism so that the mechanism is not damaged during shipping. Likewise, in order to ensure that the CD mechanism does not get damaged when the replaced CD Changer is returned to the service center, the shipping screws taken from the new CD Changer must be installed into the replaced CD Changer. Refer to the following instructions to properly initialize the CD Changer mechanism and to install the shipping screws.
RDW CD CHANGER INITIALIZATION AND SHIPPING SCREW INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
1. Before removing the CD Changer from the vehicle, remove all discs from the CD Changer.
2. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position.
3. Follow the procedures in the appropriate Service Manual (Group 8F) to remove the CD Changer from the vehicle.
4. Disconnect the 8-way CD Changer connector from the CD Changer and wait at least five seconds.
5. Re-connect the 8-way CD Changer connector to the CD Changer. Once the 8-way connector has been re-connected, the CD Changer will re-initialize itself. The initialization process will take approximately 15 seconds to complete.
6. Once the initialization process has been completed, disconnect the 8-way CD Changer connector from the CD Changer. Then, remove the CD Changer from the vehicle.
I have the Eibach springs and 18x8 wheels with 255/45 tires. I don't think I've come across anybody else with the Eibach (which I believe were discontinued quite a while ago; their rep said about 50% of their customers complained about the vibration). I also believe I'm the only one (I've heard of) running with 255's. I have had no problems with the springs and no problems with the tires (other than they cost so d@mn much!).
IIRC, the Eibach springs lowered the car 1.1" front and 1.3" rear. They are progressive springs; that is, they get stiffer as they compress. I think 300michael described the effect well.
Lowering the car should have no impact on your ability to run on 18's. You will *not* be able to go wider than 255's without also going with a different offset (thus essentially causing the extra width to go outside the fenders).
I'd love to get a hold of a G-tech and see how I do on the skidpad test. Michael, did you say you got .9g? I have no doubts I could do that well. The car is on rails.
Oh, to discuss costs of lowering... I think I paid $235 (including tax) for the springs, and spent $370 for installation, including a 4-wheel alignment. Whatever you do, get an alignment after installation. I think Michael had an easier time getting his springs installed, but I had to call dozens of places before I found one. No dealer would touch them, and one independent wanted $600 before the alignment.
Igor
PS My car is 3 years old today; just short of 51k miles.
I think I'm going to go with the Porterfield 4s and slotted rotors.
Anyone out there have this problem:
When driving over 90 mph, I looked at the interior rear view mirror and discover that it was vibrating and not because of the stereo; however, I couldn't feel anything else vibrating (e.g. steering wheel, seat, pedals). Any thoughts?
Have good memorial day week-end to all in the U.S.
I guess you've never followed a honda civic, huh? I don't think 225s are too narrow, but everyone is entitled to their own opinion.
Hey all - There was a 300M parked next to me today with some nice looking Yokohama tires. They were in our stock size (225-55-17) and were V-rated. I saw the model number but I don't remember it. However, I DO remember that it was two letters and three numbers. lol! Based on the reviews of the Avids and the rating limitation, this might be one to look at.
I need some advice from you M'ers that have done the dual exhaust mod. No, the problem isn't on the mechanical end, it has to do with the cutting out the rear fascia. On the M, it looks as though it is a straightforward cut-out job, using a "mirror-image" template and then using door trim molding on the edges.
On the LHS, the rear fascia really isn't "cut-out" for the existing exhaust, the plastic is more of a "depression" rather than a cut-out:
How can this type of depression be duplicated on the other side??? Any ideas anyone??
The cutout on the M is the same, but it just extends higher up into the fascia panel. I'd cut out the inner lip on the left side to make a smooth, more distinct cutout shape, then mirror it on the other side.
Also, if you back cut the opening so there is very little of the edge surface showing, it makes a more finished appearance. Or, you can always use door edge molding to finish off the edges on both sides. I don't know if the make that stuff in gold or not.
I agree with you, 225 is a wide tire. May be I need to be a little more clear, but that may be my opinion. I'm talking proportionality. This is like a big man on small feet, just out of proportion. Proportion is that big enough tires and the tires are closer to the fender. German cars and Honda always doing that. Chrysler is the first American car doing that following by Ford. Even LHS looks OK, but somehow the M's design has the problem. I hope you know what I mean.:)
The main reason I would take the H&R is the spacer kit. I do like the idea of the Intrax lowering down 1.8" and with the rear was lowered even more say 2.8". The chrysler dealers will chanrge you about $550 for the install not counting parts. If you can't do it, or want to do it your self have a local trusted shop do it.
If I understand you correctly, then the M dual mod requires cutting on BOTH sides. I had assumed you guys were just cutting out the pass. side to match the existing driver's side cut-out.
I'm not sure what you mean by "back cutting" the opening. I guess the goal here is to cut the existing side in a manner that can be easily replicated on the pass. side.
I can cut out material on the pass. side with a dremel, but I can't see how I can re-create the "curved-in" look that currently exists on the driver's side.
Anyone have links to pics I can get some ideas from?
Roger, if you have PhotoShop or CorelDraw maybe you can take my pic and draw in a line where you are suggesting I cut......
was .87 I am going to be tweeking the suspension a little more later, because the conditions were not at my (did it at night (hard to see the cones))likeing. I have a local street corner that I like to test the car on. Stock it could take it at 18 mph. With the Bridgestones I could take it at 21mph, and so far I have tried 24mph. It doesn't seem like much, but considering the sharpness of the corner and the reverse bank, of the pavement I am impressed so far. Riding on rails is a good term, except you do not get the clickity-clack you get on normal rales. I am running the 17" razerstars, with Bridgestone (225/55 17)Potenza S0-3 Pole Positions, which are a Max Perfromance Tire.
I like that double oval exhaust tip on the Lhs--I think they would look fantastic on our M's--somewhat like some of the Caddy Sevilles---I think they say "performance" and are classy at the same time-- a perfect fit for the M----I liked the single oval like Blonda's but they connote performance and are not quite as classy as double ovals---
It think you would have to cut out the inner portion of the opening otherwise the left wont balance the right---in the M if you leave the left as original and just cut the right, the difference is not really as noticeable as it would be on the LHS---good luck with your duals!
Yes. That was it. I didn't see it listed on Yokohama's site. Know anything about it? A V-rated Yoko in our size might be a great aftermarket set of tires.
were they Avids---those only come in T-rated in sizes for the stock rims---not sure if other Yoko styles come in sizes for the M---I am considering a set of the t-rated for the M---I had a set of V-rated Avids on my Mark VIII and they were excellent for an all season tire. I believe Rogor bought them for his M---How are they working out, Rogor?
mwahahahahaa!! im finally home! but i was only gone for liek 180 days but it sure seemed forever! its so good to be back, and lemme tell ya, anytime any of ya start to think this country sucks... oh man, this place is heaven! those 3rd world countrys are no joke. well now i can tell ya, i was in pakistan for a long while, in kandahar, spent a bit of time in kuwait spain italy and saudi... its so good to be back!
anyway im off for now, just lettin everyone konw im back, and thanks for all the great emails you guys sent me, even if i couldnt write back to you all, its not cuz i didnt want to, just couldnt sometimes, but i really appreciate it!!
Far be it from me to put down Zaino as I have long been a user and I still believe it to be one of the finest car finish products on the planet BUT, I did an experiment this afternoon mostly to satisfy my curiousity. I was cruising the Classic Motoring Acc. website
a while back and became intrigued with their description of Pinnacle Paste Glaz and Souveran car waxes. Long story short, I ordered a Paste Glaz kit (specifically recommended for light color paints like white, silver, beige) and it arrived today.
I washed my hood twice with Dawn dishwashing liquid and then ran a piece of masking tape right down the center of the hood. I went through the Zaino ritual (Z1, Z5, Z2, with Z6 between coats) on the left side, and the Pinnacle Paintworks Cleansing lotion, Paste Glaz, and Crystal Mist on the right side. I used the same Koala soft towels for buffing. (Different towels for each product.) The resultant "brilliance" surprised me. Trying to be as objective as possible, my eyes kept leaning towards the Pinnacled half of the hood. I even turned the car around to make sure the light wasn't playing tricks. The best way I can describe the shine is it's slightly more brilliant than Zaino - even sparkly! The finish also feels more slippery. Now I'm not recommending that everyone dump their Zaino and run out and get Pinnacle as Zaino is a superb product, but I found this little test interesting and I may stick with Pinnacle for a while. By the way, they make a wax (available in limited quantities) called Souveran that is specifically recommended for red and black paint finishes. (Hint, hint, sdmike2) They swear it will make red and black absolutely dazzling with zero streaking! I am not going to go into the chemistry here, but you may want to check out the website above and do some reading. It's the best site I've seen for car care.
we all missed ya here--glad to hear you're ok---where did you store the M while you were gone---did someone start it up for you occasionally to keep the battery charged and condensation out of the systems---I'll bet you already put on another coat of Zaino and used the cleaner on the leather etc.----must be a good feelin' cruisin in the M after 6 months of riding in jeeps---
hope to see you here posting again ---and make sure you join our chat session next Wednesday at da club.
which one is easier to apply---is Pinnacle harder to remove--does it leave white residue in the seams like regular wax----Is Pinnacle a wax or a polymer---I wonder if it would be as durable as Zaino---
Glad you made it back ok, Phases. I just got my nephew back from Bosnia (Army platoon sergeant). Lucky he survived that little tour. We gotta stop being the "cops of the world". Peacekeeping only works while we are there. As soon as we leave, all Hell will break loose (again).
So you lucky Canadians can get a Special in two additional colors - light green and almond - or so the article says. I still think they should have offered it in red too.
And of all things, I've spied another silver Special floating around town. so much for not meeting myself coming and going... But they put a wing on theirs.
I've modified the badging on mine. The flying wing is now on the trunk instead of the "Chrysler" lettering and I put the round badges on the rear door wings like the early LHS had. I know some folks don't like anything on the sides but it actually looks pretty good with the badges on the doors.
My Memorial weekend project is to install a Stongard kit on her. The bumper will be the challenging part, no doubt about it.
I know this isn't a new observation, but Otto, can't the engineers find a better way to mount the license plate bracket? Good grief drilling holes in the bumper face and using those god awful self taping screws. NASTY.
Nope kosh , we dont get extra colors. He made a boo boo.The best way to get away from the front plate thing ,is no plate. I know you have to have one in some places ,but hey take a chance LOL.
Easyrider - both products are very easy to use and both leave absolutely no powder residue at all. In fact, the Paste Glaz is wiped on and then off with no "drying" time required. As best I can gather, the Pinnacle formula is a polymer base that has been doped with natural oils and 100% pure Brazilian Ivory Carnauba. I can't vouch for how long the shine/protection will last, but for us "car nuts" that polish our M's at least once a month anyway, that's a moot point. Some notes from the website follow: Wax Comparison Chart Summary: If you're even looking at this wax you're a car care fanatic! You probably don't care that it's a pure wax and you should polish or pre-clean the surface before using it. You probably don't care that it doesn't last all that long and it costs more than you paid for your last pair of shoes. After all, the 8 oz. container is enough wax for 30 applications and that brings the cost per application down to about the price of a cup of coffee in many restaurants!
Is Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax really that good? Is it really worth $70? Let's put it this way. If you're a car guy (or gal) and have a dark color vehicle that's your pride and joy, it's time to set your priorities. There has to be food on the table and the kids have to have clothes and school books. Then get this wax. The shimmer and depth that it adds to a black or red car's finish is friggen unbelievable! And you can put layer on top of layer and finish just keeps getting darker, deeper and richer!
Pro: Awesome, deep, liquid shimmer on black, red & dark color finishes. Pro: Very easy to wipe on and buff off. Pro: Can be layered and layered and layered! Pro: Very paint friendly. Hides swirls. Con: Below average durability. Plan on waxing every 60-90 days. Con: Expensive but after you see the results, who cares! Con: Only achieves maximum depth and liquidity on dark color paints. Con: Requires a polish prior to first time application.
It would be interesting to see which lasts (beads, shines) longer. Does this mean you have a dull stripe where you removed the tape? Like a raceing stripe?
Where did you get your Stongard kit, the only place I found to purchase it was directly from Stongard. Thier prices are pretty steep - supposedly because the one piece bumper. But they definetly make the most complete I have seen. I was wondering if there was a place with better pricing. Let us know how it turns out.
Do you have any idea how much that Dupont paint job runs? Also, has anyone any alternative ideas for the front plate being displayed on the front bumper? Especially for the authorities in Ca.? Can it be displayed somewhere convenient inside the car?
I hope you were able to endure the hardships over there, with no permanent trauma. Did you get the chance to at least say Hi to our Canadian boys over there? and I hope there was not any hard feelings for the 4 that were killed. Our people are coming home in July-Aug and not being replaced because our lousy government (Liberal) thinks the military is not imporant and we don't have the manpower any more to send anywhere. Hard to believe that we had one of the largest militaries in the world during WW2. I spent 13 yrs in the Canadian military and am embarrassed at our position in the world. Welcome back and to all my US neighbours, have a great Memorial Day weekend and hope every one drives safe.
End note. I had my car in my 5* dealer on Thurs for service and check out any damage after I was rear-ended last week. I am happy to report that as I saw the guy coming I was able to hit the gas and it must have been the right thing to do because there was absolutely no damage to my car and any marks on the plastic came off with rubbing. The only damage was to my licence plate holder. I got a lucky one and thanks DC for making those energy absorbing bumpers.
Today is my car's 4th Birthday (well, not the exact day Otto built it, but the day I took delivery!) and I never put on the front plate or plate bracket (I use a short bungee cord when I throw it on to get through State Inspection every 2 years...) Never been pulled over, and I live in the most densely populated 2-plate State (NJ) in the US.
PS: Never put one on my wife's 2001 Concorde either, although the dealer did screw in the #$%^ bracket, so now there are holes in the grill.
...I have since shined them up and removed the carbon deposits, etc.
If I can ever figure out how to cut-out the other side, and IF the existing tip can be salvaged after I have the resonator cut out, MAYBE I can order another LHS tip for the pass side exhaust. The LHS tip is tapered, or staggered, I guess to accomodate the "curve-ier" LHS rear-end. I wonder if I could just take a new tip and flip it for the pass side? I would have to drill new drain holes as the holes would then be facing upwards, but other than that, would that work??
PS: It's hard to believe the original M's didn't come with chrome tips like the LHS. When did DC start putting them on the M??
A while back I remember seeing a photo of an M with the license plate bracket mounted below the upper grill and in front of the lower grill. Not sure how it was hooked up but there were no holes drilled in the fascia. Unfortunately for me and others, the dealer screws the damn thing on before the cars are even sold! 300michael - Well, their was sort of a duller stripe on my hood! Of course, it was immediately Pinnacled away!
I can only guess as to what that paint job would run. A few years back I owned a Nissan Skyline when I was living in Japan. Multi-reflective paint jobs are pretty popular over there and I was considering getting a multi-blue reflective finish. I went to 3 "specialty" paint places and the cheapest estimate I got was $2,200.00 to do it right. I didn't do it. The car was 8 years old anyway. Some of them sure do look fantastic though!
I didn't cut out the drivers side cutout, but with the dark color, the difference doesn't show unless you look really close. On your gold color, I think the difference between left and right might be more obvious. That's why I suggested cutting out the left side to the outer curve of the fascia panel. I think you'd get a better visual match and that way.
By "back cutting" I meant putting a 45 degree bevel on the inside of the cut edge, so that from the back you can't see the cut surface, only the sharp edge where the cutout meets the outer surface of the fascia panel.
Sdmike2 used custom tips that look very much like the stock LHS tips. He has a source for them in CA.
Guess I'll just learn to live w/it. I'm not so concerned w/the scofflaws around Vegas, I see a lot of people braving it w/o front plates. It the drive thru the smaller out of the way places in California, Nevada, and Utah that I was thinking about - speedtraps and all. I was looking to keep within the letter of the law w/o spoiling the appearance a little of the distinctive front of the car. Too bad I don't live in Phoenix (do front plates even exist there?). Well, how ofter will I see the front bumper of my car anyway LOL.
Just 1 more time here. You have the non-PHP and Intrax and have no problems. I have an 01 non-PHP and like the Intrax as well as they lower a bit more than the H&R, but you recommend the H&R because it comes with the spacer kit that may or may not be needed. I suppose the question is: If you bought a new non-PHP M, what lowering springs would you put on it today?
Comments
300michael - thanks for the info on the springs. I was considering Intrax, but the H&R's sound better after reading your email. Anyone try Eibach? Of course, they don't lower as much, right?
To get the cool slotted rotors, talk to Jerry at:
http://www.MyRoadster.Net/
He gives exemplary customer service. Tell him Scott Jensen sent you!
The huge gap is one of the imperfection to see from the side of the car, aarr.. I can live with it, it is not that worst.
The worst is the narrow tires to view from the back, you need to view from a DISTANCE. It makes the M looks so dirt cheap even a Honda looks much better. Imagine a big car on small wheels, it is just ugly. Have anybody done anything on it? Or is this only my sense, haven't heard much talking on this? Or people in here get used to the American car looks? I'm interested to know.
http://www.thebramptonguardian.com/br/wheels/story/353607p-458110c.html
My guess is that these shipping screws were not installed by the seller as he had no knowledge of this requirement, and the unit was damaged in shipping. Hopefully you can share this withthe seller and come to an understanding.
CD Changer Mechanism - Shipping Procedure
NUMBER: 08-41-99
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: Dec. 10, 1999
SUBJECT:
CD Changer Mechanism Shipping Procedure
MODELS:
2000 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid/LHS/300M
2000 (PL) Neon
NOTE :THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH THE FOUR DISC CD CHANGER (SALES CODE RDW).
DISCUSSION:
The four disc CD Changer is serviced on an exchange basis with your local service center. When the replacement CD Changer arrives, four shipping screws must be removed before installation in order to allow the CD Changer to operate properly. The shipping screws secure the CD mechanism so that the mechanism is not damaged during shipping. Likewise, in order to ensure that the CD mechanism does not get damaged when the replaced CD Changer is returned to the service center, the shipping screws taken from the new CD Changer must be installed into the replaced CD Changer. Refer to the following instructions to properly initialize the CD Changer mechanism and to install the shipping screws.
RDW CD CHANGER INITIALIZATION AND SHIPPING SCREW INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
1. Before removing the CD Changer from the vehicle, remove all discs from the CD Changer.
2. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position.
3. Follow the procedures in the appropriate Service Manual (Group 8F) to remove the CD Changer from the vehicle.
4. Disconnect the 8-way CD Changer connector from the CD Changer and wait at least five seconds.
5. Re-connect the 8-way CD Changer connector to the CD Changer. Once the 8-way connector has been re-connected, the CD Changer will re-initialize itself. The initialization process will take approximately 15 seconds to complete.
6. Once the initialization process has been completed, disconnect the 8-way CD Changer connector from the CD Changer. Then, remove the CD Changer from the vehicle.
IIRC, the Eibach springs lowered the car 1.1" front and 1.3" rear. They are progressive springs; that is, they get stiffer as they compress. I think 300michael described the effect well.
Lowering the car should have no impact on your ability to run on 18's. You will *not* be able to go wider than 255's without also going with a different offset (thus essentially causing the extra width to go outside the fenders).
I'd love to get a hold of a G-tech and see how I do on the skidpad test. Michael, did you say you got .9g? I have no doubts I could do that well. The car is on rails.
Oh, to discuss costs of lowering... I think I paid $235 (including tax) for the springs, and spent $370 for installation, including a 4-wheel alignment. Whatever you do, get an alignment after installation. I think Michael had an easier time getting his springs installed, but I had to call dozens of places before I found one. No dealer would touch them, and one independent wanted $600 before the alignment.
Igor
PS My car is 3 years old today; just short of 51k miles.
I think I'm going to go with the Porterfield 4s and slotted rotors.
Anyone out there have this problem:
When driving over 90 mph, I looked at the interior rear view mirror and discover that it was vibrating and not because of the stereo; however, I couldn't feel anything else vibrating (e.g. steering wheel, seat, pedals). Any thoughts?
Have good memorial day week-end to all in the U.S.
Hey all - There was a 300M parked next to me today with some nice looking Yokohama tires. They were in our stock size (225-55-17) and were V-rated. I saw the model number but I don't remember it. However, I DO remember that it was two letters and three numbers. lol! Based on the reviews of the Avids and the rating limitation, this might be one to look at.
On the LHS, the rear fascia really isn't "cut-out" for the existing exhaust, the plastic is more of a "depression" rather than a cut-out:
How can this type of depression be duplicated on the other side??? Any ideas anyone??
Note: additional pics are at:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/tsokol5/exhaust.htm
Also, if you back cut the opening so there is very little of the edge surface showing, it makes a more finished appearance. Or, you can always use door edge molding to finish off the edges on both sides. I don't know if the make that stuff in gold or not.
Plan B is the Borla system - no cutout required.
The chrysler dealers will chanrge you about $550 for the install not counting parts. If you can't do it, or want to do it your self have a local trusted shop do it.
I'm not sure what you mean by "back cutting" the opening. I guess the goal here is to cut the existing side in a manner that can be easily replicated on the pass. side.
I can cut out material on the pass. side with a dremel, but I can't see how I can re-create the "curved-in" look that currently exists on the driver's side.
Anyone have links to pics I can get some ideas from?
Roger, if you have PhotoShop or CorelDraw maybe you can take my pic and draw in a line where you are suggesting I cut......
Thanks!
Tom
It think you would have to cut out the inner portion of the opening otherwise the left wont balance the right---in the M if you leave the left as original and just cut the right, the difference is not really as noticeable as it would be on the LHS---good luck with your duals!
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mrmike651
anyway im off for now, just lettin everyone konw im back, and thanks for all the great emails you guys sent me, even if i couldnt write back to you all, its not cuz i didnt want to, just couldnt sometimes, but i really appreciate it!!
http://www.properautocare.com
a while back and became intrigued with their description of Pinnacle Paste Glaz and Souveran car waxes. Long story short, I ordered a Paste Glaz kit (specifically recommended for light color paints like white, silver, beige) and it arrived today.
I washed my hood twice with Dawn dishwashing liquid and then ran a piece of masking tape right down the center of the hood. I went through the Zaino ritual (Z1, Z5, Z2, with Z6 between coats) on the left side, and the Pinnacle Paintworks Cleansing lotion, Paste Glaz, and Crystal Mist on the right side. I used the same Koala soft towels for buffing. (Different towels for each product.) The resultant "brilliance" surprised me. Trying to be as objective as possible, my eyes kept leaning towards the Pinnacled half of the hood. I even turned the car around to make sure the light wasn't playing tricks. The best way I can describe the shine is it's slightly more brilliant than Zaino - even sparkly! The finish also feels more slippery. Now I'm not recommending that everyone dump their Zaino and run out and get Pinnacle as Zaino is a superb product, but I found this little test interesting and I may stick with Pinnacle for a while. By the way, they make a wax (available in limited quantities) called Souveran that is specifically recommended for red and black paint finishes. (Hint, hint, sdmike2) They swear it will make red and black absolutely dazzling with zero streaking! I am not going to go into the chemistry here, but you may want to check out the website above and do some reading. It's the best site I've seen for car care.
hope to see you here posting again ---and make sure you join our chat session next Wednesday at da club.
Easyrider300M
Enjoy the homecoming!
Silver
And of all things, I've spied another silver Special floating around town. so much for not meeting myself coming and going... But they put a wing on theirs.
I've modified the badging on mine. The flying wing is now on the trunk instead of the "Chrysler" lettering and I put the round badges on the rear door wings like the early LHS had. I know some folks don't like anything on the sides but it actually looks pretty good with the badges on the doors.
My Memorial weekend project is to install a Stongard kit on her. The bumper will be the challenging part, no doubt about it.
I know this isn't a new observation, but Otto, can't the engineers find a better way to mount the license plate bracket? Good grief drilling holes in the bumper face and using those god awful self taping screws. NASTY.
Wax Comparison Chart Summary:
If you're even looking at this wax you're a car care fanatic! You probably don't care that it's a pure wax and you should polish or pre-clean the surface before using it. You probably don't care that it doesn't last all that long and it costs more than you paid for your last pair of shoes. After all, the 8 oz. container is enough wax for 30 applications and that brings the cost per application down to about the price of a cup of coffee in many restaurants!
Is Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax really that good? Is it really worth $70? Let's put it this way. If you're a car guy (or gal) and have a dark color vehicle that's your pride and joy, it's time to set your priorities. There has to be food on the table and the kids have to have clothes and school books. Then get this wax. The shimmer and depth that it adds to a black or red car's finish is friggen unbelievable! And you can put layer on top of layer and finish just keeps getting darker, deeper and richer!
Pro: Awesome, deep, liquid shimmer on black, red & dark color finishes.
Pro: Very easy to wipe on and buff off.
Pro: Can be layered and layered and layered!
Pro: Very paint friendly. Hides swirls.
Con: Below average durability. Plan on waxing every 60-90 days.
Con: Expensive but after you see the results, who cares!
Con: Only achieves maximum depth and liquidity on dark color paints.
Con: Requires a polish prior to first time application.
End note. I had my car in my 5* dealer on Thurs for service and check out any damage after I was rear-ended last week. I am happy to report that as I saw the guy coming I was able to hit the gas and it must have been the right thing to do because there was absolutely no damage to my car and any marks on the plastic came off with rubbing. The only damage was to my licence plate holder. I got a lucky one and thanks DC for making those energy absorbing bumpers.
PS: Never put one on my wife's 2001 Concorde either, although the dealer did screw in the #$%^ bracket, so now there are holes in the grill.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/tsokol5/exhaust.htm
...I have since shined them up and removed the carbon deposits, etc.
If I can ever figure out how to cut-out the other side, and IF the existing tip can be salvaged after I have the resonator cut out, MAYBE I can order another LHS tip for the pass side exhaust. The LHS tip is tapered, or staggered, I guess to accomodate the "curve-ier" LHS rear-end. I wonder if I could just take a new tip and flip it for the pass side? I would have to drill new drain holes as the holes would then be facing upwards, but other than that, would that work??
PS: It's hard to believe the original M's didn't come with chrome tips like the LHS. When did DC start putting them on the M??
300michael - Well, their was sort of a duller stripe on my hood! Of course, it was immediately Pinnacled away!
http://public.fotki.com/rogor2k/300m_dual_exhaust/
I didn't cut out the drivers side cutout, but with the dark color, the difference doesn't show unless you look really close. On your gold color, I think the difference between left and right might be more obvious. That's why I suggested cutting out the left side to the outer curve of the fascia panel. I think you'd get a better visual match and that way.
By "back cutting" I meant putting a 45 degree bevel on the inside of the cut edge, so that from the back you can't see the cut surface, only the sharp edge where the cutout meets the outer surface of the fascia panel.
Sdmike2 used custom tips that look very much like the stock LHS tips. He has a source for them in CA.