Chrysler 300M

fastdriver · February 2003

IF redlining is illegal, I wonder how the insurance companies get away with it?

http://www.detnews.com/2003/autosinsider/0302/04/autos-75973.htm

IL might be a good place to buy a repossesed 300 if this is true?

fastdriver

kosh_2258 · February 2003

Wal-Mart carries them, not sure if they are the low profile type or not. And while you're there spend a couple more dollars and buy an endcap type filter wrench which will make removing the filter very easy. They have those too.

I've been doing my oil changes for many years and on the LH since 93. With the right tools, I agree, it's about a 15 minute job.
The Special is no harder than a regular M with the exception that being a .5" lower and the cladding makes getting the jack under it a challenge.

beespecial · February 2003

Thanks. I'll be heading to Wally-world this weekend. I'm a firm believer in having the right tools the job.

pster · February 2003

I have seen the ramps at AutoZone. The endcap wrench works OK if you use a filter with squared off sections. The MOBIL 1 filters I prefer are smooth and the endcap wrench has nothing to grip on to. I find the endcap wrenchs slip too much also. Griot's garage sells a wrench (looks like a very large expanding jaw wrench) that works with virtually any oil filter. I have tried them all and the griot's product beats them all. Unlike the picture in the attached web page, I put the jaws onto the bottom of the oil filter and loosen it enough to take off by hand - in other words, grip from the bottom instead of from the side as shown in the photo.
http://www.griotsgarage.com/search.jsp?searchtext=oil+wrench&- - - search.x=13&search.y=3

ottowrkr · February 2003

fastdriver - not sure of the price.

indydriver · February 2003

I am also on the NW side, near St. Vincent's Hospital....work in Carmel. I drive a stone stock Champaign colored '99. Kosh answered what I was looking for re: the Special (i.e., lower). I can barely, just barely, change my oil filter from the garage floor with nothing but 35 psi holding the car off the ground. I also use a standard strap type filter wrench. It ain't easy but I get it done well enough I haven't been motivated to go tool shopping.

Finally crossed the 100K barrier now that the torque converter is replaced. 100,600 to be exact. Looking forward to which ever comes first: 200,000 or the SRT-8 (unless of course I like the new M even better!).

beespecial · February 2003

If you can reach your filter without raising the car off the floor, you're doing good. I'm not sure if I can even get the drain pan under there without raising it some.
Where do you go for service? I purchased from Eastgate and was treated pretty good but I don't know much about their service area, yet.

We're not too far from each other. I'm near Pike HS. Maybe we'll cross paths somewhere. For a fellow 300m owner, and Indy resident, the first beer is on me.

drpixel · February 2003

(Sorry for the off Topic PAT, but got to catch up...) time now is 1:15am East Coast time and just got done catching up on a few messages ...figured out how the counter works on the bottom---the new format's not TOO bad...
Updates from the downsized--but not DOWN and OUT Doc....
Oldest daughter moved out into own apartment---got FULL-TIME teaching job close by home but different town teaching Gifted and Talented class of kids....she seems happy...
Youngest started college--just finished 1st semester and starting second....wants to be an interior designer... eMily has just under 19K (2000 model)..don't drive much these days...
Job situation: STILL looking, but have been working with a guy in Washington, D.C. who owns a business. Involved with databases, and stuff. Been updating/repairing his site with potential to do same for 9 to 10 others....its keeping me busy. Also have 2 possibles for permanent positions locally in NJ...hoping one will pan out.
Glad to see some familar faces here on this board/forum....alos tryting to keep Club home page updated when I can....and wish new Club officers well....time to go.....will touch bases again..those who want can contact me at home email address....

Doc/Glenn/drpixel

tictac3 · February 2003

Old topic. Someone please post the web site of the dealer(s) who offer discounted factory warranties. Thanks.

njerald · February 2003

www.chryslerwarranty.com

jona57 · February 2003

I'm another M'er from central IN ('01 Garnet/Sandstone w/all options). With at least 3 of us we could start our own chapter! Maybe we could convince O'Brien to hold a drive-in for us at his new 96th street dealership???? Unfortunately, I work downtown so my drive isn't too much fun. I'd rather be driving the twisties down in SE Indiana. I'm not a 100K driver, but still love my baby. It gets a nice hand-delivered bath whenever it's above around 40 degrees (works fine with hot carwash suds to keep the hands warm). Still a great-looking car with its Zaino shine.

Jon

easyrider300m · February 2003

here is where you can find several warranty companies mentioned and additional info on warranty purchase:

warranty purchase info

beespecial · February 2003

It's great to hear from another M'er from central IN. Did you, like me, spend your time this week cleaning your baby only to have all your efforts spoiled by Mother Nature? And, can you believe it, we're getting hammered by snow again today? Sure glad I bought winter tires.

jona57 · February 2003

I sure did give the M a bath on Sat. Still clean in the garage, too. I tend to borrow the wife's Gr Caravan when it snows to keep the M lookin' good. That GC was a great snow vehicle with its 17" wheels (GC w/ES package), but those orig equip Michelins just aren't what they used to be after 30+K miles. After the last snow I did a little acceleration testing with both the GC & my M (stock 01 PHG pkg Michelin Pilot HX MX4's- I have not invested in snow tires). Condition was 100% packed snow on same level sidestreet. Acceleration to 20mph took 11.5-12 sec with the GC, but only 9.5-10 sec with my M. The M also felt more sure-footed in handling and braking. Results were clearly better with the GC last winter. All-season radials sure do loose some winter performance when they get worn a bit. My next tire $$ needs to go toward the van rather than the M. On second thought, I may put the M's Michelins on the van (same rim size) & treat the M to upgraded rubber.

Jon

silverbullet4 · February 2003

LOL! "Gee,honey-I love you so much I am going to give you my expensive high-perf tires for your GC for Valentines' Day".

Bright Silver 2000 with PHG, BassLink, sunroof.

xxxpress · February 2003

I picked up a late model 1999 300M used. It had a clean record and is very well maintained as an executive car in CA. I replaced my Eagle Vision TSi with this car and I am looking forward to good things...

I've been hearing a lot about water leaks throughout the car's interior. I too suffer from this dilemma.

I have a mysterious leak that accumulates a puddle/wet spot in the back foot well behind the front passenger seat. It gets quite substantial.

I am mainly concerned about stale water smells and possibly rusting.

I constantly keep drying this area with a large towel but after every rain, car wash, or snow, it develops again.

I am perplexed as to where it is coming from... the door rubber seals appear fine, the inside top panel is dry, the seats are dry, etc... only the foot well gets soaked.

I will be contacting the dealer to see if they have an idea or solution but from reading the boards here it looks like Chrysler is not ready to admit to a real problem.

If anyone has experienced this AND has a real answer I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks.
BP

trashman2 · February 2003

to all the indy members. iam a club member from terre haute. i drive a 2000 steel blue with factory spoiler, the molded mud flaps also i have the woodtrim dash kit. just wanted to say hi.

indydriver · February 2003

Well, what do you know? An Indiana 300M club right under our noses? B-if you're buying, I'm there! I bought my M at (formerly) Carson C-P-D-J in Plainfield. After Eastgate bought them (now "Westgate") I looked for a dealer closer to home. I have been working with Penske Dodge for the last year and they have treated me right on some major work...new trans for the '90 Ply GVLE, major maintenance cycle for the M and the '00 DGCS, and of course the torque converter. Next up is replacing the cracked windshield and oil leak on the '00. Do you think they love me?

Jona-My M wishes you owned it with all the TLC you provide. Mine's a clydesdale....lots of miles and Mike's Car Washes. She doesn't know how to spell Zaino.

T-Man-I blast through TH on a regular basis on my way to St. Louie. Do you realize that you have just about the lowest gas prices in the world at the 23 and 7 mile markers?

ottowrkr · February 2003

check this out , not my cup of tea .

http://www.visuslouvers.com/300m1.jpg

lonestarsled · February 2003

I must be getting old, I was thinking 1970 - Ford Mustang. I also had a flashback to 1965 this week when I found this:

http://bradbarnett.net/mustangs/concept/s197/pics/coupe.htm

ajpiii · February 2003

GROSS !! How could someone do that to an M...

kosh_2258 · February 2003

Louvers? Louvers?! LOUVERS!

Jeez, just goes to show there is no accounting for taste.

Now the 1965 flashback I can deal with. The new 'Stang has some personality to it. The recent ones have been OK, but the new one puts some lineage back in the breed.

beespecial · February 2003

Hi T-man. Welcome to the post. Like indydriver I too zip through TH only I'm on my way to Vincennes. The 2.5 hour trip is sooo much nicer cruising there in my Special. Man, I love this car!

beespecial · February 2003

indy, jona, t-man, we may have to do our own drive-in this summer. Sometime when it's warm and DRY. I wouldn't mind getting together and comparing M's.

beespecial · February 2003

Noooooooooooo! Say it ain't so. Someone has put louvers on an M? Louvers didn't look good the first time around. On anything. They sure can't improve the looks of a 300M.

bigmike5 · February 2003

I don't know. I like the look, and it would keep the heat down in the summer and the snow off the window in the winter. I toyed with the Lorinser roof wing idea for a time, but they wanted about $430 unpainted for it so I had to forego that item. If you go to the Lorinser site they still may have the Lorinser 99M with all the ground effects etc. on it. Was awesome, but grossly overpriced on their products. No indication of price on the louvers tho.

pster · February 2003

Just something else with no utility value to spend that discretionary income on. Other than rubber mats and trunk liners, I've never felt the compulsion to add stuff onto my cars (save the occassional "Save the Whales" and "NRA" window stickers - hey, I always liked that "Duality of War" thing from Full Metal Jacket...)

rstilp · February 2003

How about an all Indiana Meet at The Ravines Golf Course in West Lafayette this summer?
Rick Stilp/Geezer300M

beespecial · February 2003

Driving my M and playing some golf...doesn't get any better than that. I'm in.

wire2 · February 2003

It may be coming in from underneath. Put the car on a hoist and make sure the floor plug is in place and sealed. It's an oval metal plug about 1½" x 2"

blonda · February 2003

I like it. Reminds me of the 67 Shelby.

blonda · February 2003

There have also been 2-3 people who have posted here in the past with 99 and 00's who have had body seams that were not properly sealed. I think there is a TSB related to it.

pster · February 2003

If the plug isn't there, better make sure the car was never in a flood.

bluesky999 · February 2003

Indydriver, with your 100K+ you're way ahead of most of us miles-wise. I'm curious, did you have any of the sensors go (i.e. speed, temperature) over that time period? Anything in particular (maintenance related) we should look out for in the 70-100K interval--perhaps some preventitive maintenance? Also, correct me if I'm wrong but didn't you say the transmission shifted well even though the torque converter needed replacement? What was the deal with that?

As a side note, I just realized that I read all the oil change postings with great interest and lusted after the Griot's Garage deluxe oil wrench. No, I'm not kidding--but I'm wondering about myself.

300michael · February 2003

Like the new T bird I do not like it. I will take the 69 mustang any day over this. On a scale of 1 to 10(best). I give it a 3.

300michael · February 2003

Actually out here the sun always shines it would be quite useful. They will be checking into makeing the louvers smaller (and more of them). so they keep with the lines of the car better. the price is said to be $299.

300michael · February 2003

Year ago I cut strips of construction paper and taped them in various areas of the vehicle. when it rains the water would make contact with the construction paper discoloring it. making the location easy to find. I cut strip 1/2 by 11.5" I would remove the rear seats and lift up the carpeting.

300michael · February 2003

I put club cards on 5 M's today, and not one was from my state. It sounds like an invasion.

ohhawk · February 2003

Currently drive a 2000 Bonneville SLE and will be in the market this summer for a replacement. I've read a few comparisons between the two models but nothing too comprehensive....seems like most discussion focuses on who has the better qtr. mile #'s. In any case, any previous Bonneville owners (2000 or newer) care to offer a few more thoughts on differences they've observed?

Also, has there been any discussion about the 2004 model year representing significant change to the 300M? Thanks.

jona57 · February 2003

M + Golf = Love

...er, ....check that......

M + Golf + Warm Weather = Love !!!!!

indydriver · February 2003

I-boys, count me in on M-Fest plus golf.

indydriver · February 2003

I did say that the trans was still shifting good after the check engine light came on. But, over the next few days I noticed more frequent slam shifts especially under hard acceleration. I drive this thing on business and can't risk a break down so after trying a couple of different things, I bit the bullet and paid for the new TC. It is driving perfectly now, with about 1,000 miles on the repair. By the way, this is the second dealer I've brought a lot of work to and I've consistently found that they will give you a 10% discount on work over $500 if you're nice about it and remind them how much work you're bringing in the door [I also have two DC minivans, so I have a lot of repair and maintenance work].

RE: 100,000 miles, I seem to recall one poster on this board several months (years?) ago who beat me to 100K. I really haven't done anything out of the ordinary. I change my own motor oil at 3,000 mile intervals. I have come to believe over the years that frequency of oil and filter changes is more important than the type or brand of product used. I am impressed with this 3.5l engine. It is an excellent balance between performance and economy and it seems to be bulletproof. It has never missed a beat. I got it "tuned-up" (basically a new set of plugs) when it was in the shop just because the manual said it was time, not because I noticed any degradation in performance. I had some warranty work done on the transmission at around 33,000 miles due to rough shifting. They fixed it by replacing the "solenoid" that electronically controls the shifting. I had a front sway bar bushing failure that I believe was either a freak problem or one of those parts outside of six sigma. I had one of the two main mounting bolts for the front seat break. Otherwise, I had been trouble free from 40,000 through 99,000 just changing oil and filter every 3,000; rotating and balancing every 6,000; major maintenance cycles every 30,000. I use the cheapest, rot-gut gas I can find and its always run great. The paint and exterior has held up well with weekly automatic car washes. The interior is still in good shape with only occasional cleaning. All-in-all, I am very pleased with this vehicle and highly recommend it. One disclaimer though, a lot of my miles are highway miles so service and repair intervals may not be normal. For example, I get 60,000 miles out of the GY LS's. I had plenty of brake pad left when I had the brakes done at 90,000 miles. I am into being gentle on this car so it will last another 100K.

fastdriver · February 2003

xxxpress-

I had the same leak on my Christine back in '99. It was a body seam under the rear wheel on the passenger side. I bet if you look in the trunk and check the spare tire area, you will see water there as well.I THINK there is a TSB on it.

Check these out:

Make: CHRYSLER Model: 300M Year: 1999
Service Bulletin Number: 232898 Bulletin Sequence Number: 235 Date of Bulletin: 07/98
NHTSA Item Number: 602334
Component: STRUCTURE:BODY
Summary:WATER AND / OR DUST COLLECTION IN THE SPARE TIRE WELL OR AT THE TRUNK FLOOR TO

Check to order research. Submit below.
Make: CHRYSLER Model: 300M Year: 1999
Service Bulletin Number: 232998 Bulletin Sequence Number: 223 Date of Bulletin: 08/98
NHTSA Item Number: 602210
Component: STRUCTURE:BODY
Summary:WATER LEAK ON TOP AND/OR UNDER FLOOR CARPETS. *YC

Check to order research. Submit below.
Make: CHRYSLER Model: 300M Year: 1999
Service Bulletin Number: 232998 Bulletin Sequence Number: 235 Date of Bulletin: 07/98
NHTSA Item Number: 602333
Component: STRUCTURE:BODY
Summary:EXPERIENCING WATER LEAKAGE ON TOP OF FLOOR AND/ OR UNDER FLOOR CARPETS. *YC

fastdriver

hayneldan · February 2003

Anybody notice small amounts of trans fluid on the floor under the front faschia? My 99 Intrepid is leaking at top hose to the trans cooler in the radiator. Looks like I may have to remove drivers headlight to access the clamp to see if that's what is causing it. Had the same problem on 96 minivan, that one required new hoses. Replaced by me for less than $25.00. The Intrepid/300M does not look as easy. Any suggestions otto?

mrl859 · February 2003

I had them on my 1977 Capri hatchback (anybody remember Chastain???) and thought they looked great.......on that car. They worked very well and were easy to see through. They were hinged and lifted for cleaning. The rear glass on the 300M is probably larger and no less sloped than my Capri. An intriguing idea if they were a little smaller, as someone stated they are working on. They definetly keep the sun off the back seats.

ottowrkr · February 2003

If the leak is coming from the top hose , the clamp may have loosened up. I had the same problem on my car. They are not easy to get at . See if you can fit your hand down there and feel if the clamp is loose . Good luck

fastdriver · February 2003

hayneldan-

LOL.... Christine had that problem too. The transmission fluid leaked out all over my brother's driveway one Christmas when the car was just sitting there for 3 days. Drove home 90 miles without knowing this. He called me the next morning when he saw the fluid. I went outside and warmed up Christine. Sure enough, the fluid was all the way down to below ADD FLUID. The tranny clamps had come loose.

fastdriver

bluesky999 · February 2003

Indy, thx for the rundown of your maintenance. That's pretty good considering how far 100K is. I was glad to see that you haven't had any sensor problems, as they basically put the car out of commission. Maybe the situation with the sensors is that they either go in the 1st 25K or so or just keep on chugging a long time. Well, I plan on keeping my 'M well past 100K, so I hope mine continues to be solid. Am at about 68K now on my '99. I haven't even changed the 2 belts, but will do so when I hit 70K. Regarding the engine, I read where Chrysler engineers insisted on using an iron block, rather than aluminum with lined cylinders as many of the Japanese do, out of the desire to make the engine durable. By all accounts so far they've succeeded. Hopefully the 3.5s will reach 200K w/little/no problem. Time will tell.

300michael · February 2003

Never had or have been in a Bonne. So I can't answer your comparison.

lonestarsled · February 2003

"I read where Chrysler engineers insisted on using an iron block, rather than aluminum with lined cylinders as many of the Japanese do.."

Your information is incorrect, the 3.5L engine block is aluminum with iron cylinder liners that are cast directly into the aluminum block (not pressed in). Aluminum construction allows for higher operating temperatures which in turn lead to higher fuel efficiency and less pollutants.

Chrysler 300M

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