Toyota Sienna Maintenance and Repair (2003 earlier)

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Comments

  • beckpbeckp Member Posts: 20
    I've noticed this condition for some time now and thought nothing of it but I figured I'd ask the group. When I come to a stop light and am sitting there with my foot on the brake for say 30-60 seconds. All of a sudden I get this feeling that the brake pedal just depressed another 1/8 to 1/4" in without me changing the force I'm putting on it. My brakes seem to be fine but I was wondering if anyone else has noticed this and what the cause might be?
  • hprickettxhprickettx Member Posts: 23
    This is most likely a change in the amount of vacuum boost, caused by a change in idle speed, which could be caused by the a/c clutch engaging / disengaging.
  • max62max62 Member Posts: 3
    I called Toyota's 800 number and tried to get an extension on my warranty. They said no way and they told me that they have never done this for anyone else. The person I spoke to denies even knowing there is a torque converter problem. In addition we are having transmission problems after having the TC replaced. I am furious. Anyone else have transmission problems or try to get and extended warranty?
  • dotty57dotty57 Member Posts: 5
    Sorry to hear that - both the transmission troubles and attitude from Toyota. My car is in service now and I pick it up tomorrow. I hope this is the end of the troubles with this van. What kind of transmission problems are you having?

    As soon as I receive the paperwork from Toyota regarding the promised extended warranty, I'll post that information here.
  • calsiennacalsienna Member Posts: 3
    Hi All,

    We too bought one of the cursed June/July Siennas. It's an LE if anyone's counting. Long story short, had it a day, got the lucky Check light, dealer said OK to drive, did that. Put a thousand miles on it before the part came in. Dealer did a great job of turning it around in a day and gave us a Camry as a loaner free of charge, but... (here's where I get long winded, sorry.)

    Came back to us with a slight pull to the right which I assume is an alignment problem but could be a steering wheel mis-centering and also a loud clunk when you cut the wheel sharply to parallel park. It's going back in today after having it a week with one 300 mile weekend trip.

    I have the Toyota Shop Manual Set ($200.00, but every owner should buy one, for every car they own; they pay themselves back in one use) and I looked at the Replace T/C job description and it is major. Disconnect every engine and transmission attachment, tilt it all down to unbolt the trans and pull off the T/C, reverse. You have to be a journey level pro to do this job and not miss a retorque setting or clamp, etc. The chances for post op problems are high because everything has to go back just so or else you are prone to loosening parts and fasteners. I'm a pretty fair shade-tree mechanic with a couple of Toyota clutch, starter, water and fuel pump jobs under my belt but I tried like heck to never drop an engine out. It's not routine especially for a new car.

    We politely asked our dealer to give us some peace of mind and the 10 year, 100K extended powertrain warranty and, while they have been pleasant back, they are dragging their feet with intensity. It's been three weeks of "We're trying to get Toyota to go halves with us. Please stand by."

    I'd love to hear of a Cursed T/C Sienna owner who got the full extended warranty. I don't believe the 6 year, 75K warranty offered the person in a previous post is any great deal. Not given the fact that 60K is the standard and that I've owned two Toyotas with nearly 200K miles apiece that never had the engine dropped out and put back. Plus, you still have to bring the car in for every repair which is huge for a one-car family like us.

    Anyway, we feel like we won the wrong lottery. It was our first new car, we saved like crazy and bought what we thought was the best because we wanted some security. A new("refurbished" more accurately) car with the engine yanked and replaced does not inspire confidence (no offense to crack mechanics, which I'm sure there are a few). We are recording info for a Lemon Law case but wish to heck to not have to pursue one. It's not really the dealers' fault but they (along with Toyota) are incurring a lot of bad karma on this one. As a customer service professional,I know this is going to hurt them, both. It's a matter of how much is all. They could have stepped up early and made some friends but now I just feel bitter and angry. It's becoming an expensive lesson for everyone involved and is just going to get worse I fear. I'll let everyone know how it's going soon.
  • jeproxjeprox Member Posts: 466
    You don't have a problem with your brakes. #218 is correct when he/she said that it's the a/c clutch engaging/disengaging. This should only happen with your a/c turned on. If it's not on, then have your brakes checked! I feel the exact same way when I have my a/c on.
  • gibson12gibson12 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 XLE (January 2000 - 13K miles now). I've noticed a problem with the brakes. For the past few months, the brake pedal seems to sink to the floor whenever I hit a small bump in the road. I'll be driving along -- applying the brakes slowly (like coming up on a stoplight) and then when I hit a small bump or pothole - the pedal suddenly sinks to the floor. It feels like the anti-lock brakes are kicking in -- same feeling as when you hit anti-lock brakes hard - and it makes a "humming" sound as the pedal sinks. Am still able to brake properly - it's just that the pedal goes soft. Took it to the dealer - they said they couldn't find any problem (!!). This seems to be occurring more and more frequently.

    I've driven lots of cars over the years w/ anti-lock brakes, but none of them ever did this. Can anyone tell me what is causing this to happen - and what to tell the dealer about fixing it ??

    Also - any thoughts or suggestions about the sliding door on the driver's side sticking ?
    It's very hard to pull open from the outside.

    Thanks in advance.
  • jeproxjeprox Member Posts: 466
    Sounds like ABS to me. Ask yourself these questions:
    - does it happen only when you hit a bump or pothole?
    - does it happen on smooth roads?
    - was it wet when it happened?
    - did you feel any vibrations on the pedal?
    - everytime it happens, did you hear that humming sound?

    Hopefully these questions can help you answer your problem. ABS systems are very sensitive and it could be ABS going into action. When I brake on wet leaves on the road during the Fall season, the ABS kicks in right away. First time it happened to me, I thought my brakes were shot or the van was gonna fall apart!

    hope this helps.
  • dotty57dotty57 Member Posts: 5
    60k is standard? thought 36k was standard.
  • zsurferzsurfer Member Posts: 7
    I am on my third radio on/off knob, as it keeps cracking and splitting in two. The only time I need to use this knob is to turn the power on/off, since my Sienna is equipped with the radio controls on the steering wheel (1999 model LE). But despite this low usage it keeps breaking. I know I am not being forceful with the knob and was was wondering if anybody else has faced similar situation.

    The knob replacements has been covered under warranty until now (28K in odometer) but they suggested "someone is using too much force with the knob", and I KNOW that is NOT the case.

    Thanks for your responses
  • lamm9733lamm9733 Member Posts: 37
    Has only the knob been replaced each time?? It could be possible the post which the knob slides on to may be "oversize" or have a "burr" on it. This would put additional stress on the knob and could be causing the repeated breakage. You may have a hard time getting a tech to actually do this, but.. have them measure the diameter of the post with a micrometer and then compare that to a radio on another Sienna. This may be "far-fetched", but it is worth a try.
  • max62max62 Member Posts: 3
    You already have 60K on powertrain.
    The dealer still has no idea what is wrong with our transmission. Getting impatient.
  • cdrobertscdroberts Member Posts: 13
    We had to replace the knob on our '98. It was about a year and a half old when it broke and they charged us $12. Since I'm sure my kids broke it I didn't complain, but it's interesting to hear that yours broke, too. BTW, it was the other know on ours - the one on the right side.

    Carole
  • smcphilsmcphil Member Posts: 1
    Even on a hot summer day, if my 2000 Sienna LE hasn't been driven, my idle speed is approximatley 1700 RPM until the engine warms up. Was wondering if this is normal being as it seems rather high.
  • dotty57dotty57 Member Posts: 5
    Hope this makes worried sienna owners feel a bit better. Picked up my van yesterday after the torque converter was replaced. It drives fine. Although I've only driven it about forty miles, so far it's okay. Let's hope the check engine light doesn't come on in, let's say, another 250 miles:)
  • marydougmarydoug Member Posts: 1
    We have a '99 Sienna and while driving to an weekend vacation we heard a loud metal like sound. It turned out that our front driver side tire blew out. Luckily, my husband was able to get off the highway and change the tire safely. However, when he took it to get another tire he found out that the front passenger tire's inside threads were wore away. The back tires appear fine. This wearing of the tires might explain why we have been hearing screeching when turning corners. Prior to the blow out I even stopped by a Firestone dealer- prior to the Ford problems with tires- to have him look at the tires because of the screeching. The tire guy didn't look at the inner side of the tires just took the pressure and said they were fine. We have had the van in for its service checks and nothing was said. Has anyone else had problems with the alignment?
  • angel18angel18 Member Posts: 8
    To smcphil (#230)
    Typically, all Japanese cars are like that. When you start the engine, the idle will automatically set to over 1500 rpm. Then it slowly goes down when the engine gets warmer.
    Some old cars or American cars do not have that kind of feature, so you have to be in the car and press the gas to warm the engine faster. This is not convenience. To me, this feature is a plus.
  • ksnyderksnyder Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2000 Sienna 8/7/00 and the check engine light came on immediately. I told everyone at the dealer-they all said it was fine. My family went on a vacation to the Smokey Mts for a week. Nothing bad happened. thank GOD! We came back and I read all the postings here and flipped out. I took the van in, demanded they check the tc and had to negotiate for 3 days before dropping off to get a loaner. They had to replace the tc and kept the van only 2 days to do it. When I went to pick it up, I called ahead to make an appointment with the manager. I had to wait over 1/2 hour to see him. I told him how angry I was and that I had told everyone about the check engine light. He said that the service dept gets those types of notices and they may not tell sales. Well I flipped out again and said that a lawyer had told me that I had entered into a fraudulent contract since there was evidence that they new about the tc problem and they ignored the red flags I was sending up. There is more to the story but the bottom line is I asked for leather and the extended warranty. They very grudgingly gave me the warranty after I said I would tear up the contract and my legal representation would be free ( my sister is an attorney ) I can't get an email address for customer service at Toyota, does anyone have it?
  • eomeom Member Posts: 8
    Toyota makes it a bit involved to send them an e-mail.

    First, go to:
    <<A HREF="http://www.toyota.com/">http://www.toyota.com/&gt;

    Next, click onto "Owners @ Toyota" at top of page.

    Now, you will have to register as an official Toyota vehicle owner...needing VIN # and other info.

    Finally, after you have been accepted as an official Toyota owner....You can now find (after alot of looking) a place where you can send Toyota an e-mail. They do not list an e-mail address....It is a form that comes up and you fill in same.

    I know...I know...Lots of screwing around but you asked how to do it....Good Luck!
    Ed
  • cblake2cblake2 Member Posts: 53
    Marydoug, I have had the alignment problem on my '99 Sienna CE for quite some time. The tires have been rotated and even replaced, but the problem continues. The last few times I have been on the highway, the van pulls significantly to the left. The pull was to the right slightly prior to our vacation and just before the new tires were rotated.

    The steering is not firm on this van. In addition, there is a vibration that can be felt above 50 mph, even on smooth roads. I don't understand this. Originally, we had one episode of severe shaking above 60 mph and were told that the brake drums were "out-of-round." They were replaced, but the highway vibrations continue albeit not severe as with that episode.

    I noted a lot of heat coming from the driver's side front tire well a few times. The tire was hot to touch compared the the others. I will continue to watch this.

    I have started to note the metallic "clunk" sound when backing up in my driveway. It happens each time now.

    Anyone else still having the alignment problem?

    cblake@erols.com
  • cblake2cblake2 Member Posts: 53
    Ksnyder, did the dealership do the delivery check for the potential torque converter problem? An owner reported that his dealership said it was required to drive the van for two periods of about 45 miles each to determine if the "Check Engine" light came on prior to delivery to him. As I recall, this person said Toyota required the measure. Go back and read the old posts to see the details. I'll try to locate it for you, too.

    If Toyota did know, you certainly would have a case. You should be sure to file a report with the Center for Auto Safety and the Federal Trade Commission, too. What you don't know CAN hurt you in the end re: warranty rights on your new van. You should have *no trouble* getting T/C information on the current Sienna discussion groups here.

    I saw a few posts about the problem on some 2001 vans. What is the update there? I also saw several posts about total transmission replacement AFTER the torque converter was replaced because problems continued. Any updates there?

    cblake@erols.com
  • cblake2cblake2 Member Posts: 53
    I am very interested in hearing from owners on thi issue. The pattern is the problem surfaces within the warranty period but that Toyota will NOT honor the warranty. Instead, it says that the problem is caused by the owner not changing the oil enough times! I have seen the posting primarily on the Sienna, but also on the Avalon and the Camry, too.

    The repair apparently is *total engine replacement* to the tune of over $4,000! Let's just say, this is NOT a problem that I want to encounter down the road. I am following the posts as a form of "insurance" because I will not play to "owner-blame game" that many automakers insist upon.

    cblake@erols.com
  • jrh34jrh34 Member Posts: 2
    We have owned our 2000 xle since July 1...thankfully with no check engine light problem (or TC problems). However in the last few days, we have noticed that when we turn a corner to the right or we go over a speed bump there is this a loud springy (?) noise which seems to be coming from the left rear of the van. It sounds like an old fashion spring door stop you would find in your house. This is very annoying...and wondering if anyone else has experienced this strange noise??
  • alan_salan_s Member Posts: 362
    Our '99 Sienna XLE with 30,000 miles has had the following problems:
    1) Brake problems from new. I took it to many dealers who either denied that there was a problem or worked on the brakes but did not fix the problem. It came to a point where my wife refused to drive it. Eventually fixed by Atlanta Toyota.
    2) Maddening multiple rattles in dashboard. Eventually fixed by Atlanta Toyota.
    3) A/C not cold. Also fixed by Atlanta Toyota.
    4) Rattles in right sliding door - never fixed.
    5) Transmission linkage cable disconnected itself from column lever under dash, so tranny was stuck in reverse. We were stranded do I fixed this myself.
    6) Sliding doors stick - I use silicone spray every few weeks around the seals and runners.
    7) Right sliding door locking mechanism jammed and door would not open. Fixed this myself.
    8) Car pulls to the right - replaced tires and did realignment - problem not fixed.
    8) Battery died at 18 months - OK maybe not Toyota's fault.

    I also have a '98 Camry V6, 21,000 miles.
    I've had to replace both front struts and had the rear suspension reassembled because it was assembled incorrectly! All work done by Atlanta Toyota who seem to do a good job where other dealers have failed. They are the best dealer I have found.

    All in all an extremely poor showing by Toyota. So much for the Toyota reputation for quality. Our previous Nissan Quest and Maxima never had this many problems. I have decided NOT to get the Avalon when my Camry lease is up. I'll get the Infiniti I30 for myself and the QX4 for my wife.
  • gofish7490gofish7490 Member Posts: 1
    Our family is considering the purchase of a 2001 Sienna. After reading the many compliants regarding the 2000 Sienna's, we are reconsidering this purchase. The two most serious problems with the 2000's seem to be the torque converter and engine sludge. My question is there anyone out there that has already experienced these same problems with the 2001 models (or any new major problems)? Thanks in advance for the information!
  • tomlhtomlh Member Posts: 8
    The TC problem affected a limited number of
    2000 Sienna's. Go to www.toyotarepair.com for
    details. You should be able to avoid this problem.
    Never heard of any sludge problems. Sludge is caused by old dirty oil. Keep the oil changed and
    you won't have a problem. The V6 in the Sienna is
    the same as the Camry. The Camry has a longer
    history with this engine, so you can research if the Camry has any engine problems with the V6. I
    think you'll find that with proper maintenance
    the Toyota V6 is quite reliable.
  • brentg1brentg1 Member Posts: 10
    The torque converter problem only occurred in a few months of 2000 production. I've heard or seen NO problems with the 2001's in this topic.

    Also, if you scan all the posts in this topic, you will see the engine sludge has been described (ad nauseum) by ONE disgruntled owner of a '99. In fact, this ONE owner has tried SEVERAL times in this topic to rally support from other owners about the sludge problems and has received NONE that I can recall.
  • cblake2cblake2 Member Posts: 53
    "Brentg1," I would like to clarify my previous post for "gofish7490" if I may. I currently am *seeking* additional information on the issue of engine sludge in the Sienna (particularly the '99). I have had contact with several owners over the course of several weeks who had this problem. I have not claimed that there is any *widespread* problem at this time. I am simply looking for trends. It concerns me that all have had the problem within the warranty period but the warranty claim was denied, flatly. Some of the owners have posted on the "www.thecomplaintstation.com" site under the Toyota subheading. Others have posted on the "alt.autos.toyota" USENET newsgroup site. I simply suggest a watchful eye, that's all.

    BTW, I am not disgruntled (at least YET). I am *concerned*, however. I think I have a right to be given the unanswered questions I have about my own van. My experience? Much better to get information BEFORE the fact than after!! The owners who have had the sludge problem are in a bind; if I have the problem, I will be armed (as will the others who are aware of the potential issue).

    And as for maintenance, this does not equal freedom from inherent manufacturing defects. You must never assume that proper maintenance = no premature problems.

    cblake@erols.com
  • gbush1gbush1 Member Posts: 13
    I have heard about other Toyota's having this problem. Mostly Camry. I find it interesting that Toyota says it is the owners fault for lack of up keep. What is the oil change schedule on the Sienna? I am asking because here in England, most cars changed at every 10,000 miles. It is recommended at that amount. I stopped and looked at the new Europe only Previa( Very nice ) and ask the service department the schedule. He also said 10,000 miles, but he said Toyota had told him he could go 20,000. I guess I am wondering why Toyota has the U.S. on such a short milage schedule for changing and over in Europe, they go a lot longer? While we have different range of engines granted, there is not that much difference that I can see that would require the U.S. to have to spend so much more. Why do Camry's over here not have sludge problems? Okay, so you know, I am a Toyota fan and will look at Sienna first when I return Stateside in a few months. I am not trolling. Just curious and if anyone may know why? Thanks.
  • eomeom Member Posts: 8
    For years I used Fram oil filters exclusively. Never had any problem due to same and changed oil religiously at 2700 miles in winter and 3000 in summer...along with filter same time.

    Not everyone believes however, that the Fram filters are all they are cracked up to be. You may want to read over the web site at following URL to see what one differing opinion is rel. your choice of filter.

    <<A HREF="http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilters.
    html">http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilters.
    html>

    (I have recently switched to Purolator, Duetsch, and/or AC...Your choice of oil (Mobile One, Synthetic? I assume) is what many say is the BEST. The Mobile One oil filter is supposedly a premium filter but of course one has to pay premium price. :-)
  • tomlhtomlh Member Posts: 8
    I think that a litle knowledge on how to best take
    care of your engine is a good thing no matter what car you drive. Minivans can be quite abused with short trips. My wife wanted to drive hers to work, less than 4 blocks from our house. I finally convinced her how hard this is on an engine. It could be quite possible that under conditions like this, and probably changing the oil only around 7500 miles that sludging could occur. I don't really know since I'm not an expert mechanic, but if some people are complaining, I'm sure it has happened in some cases. That said it seem's that by changing your
    oil every 3K you should avoid any problems all together. I have 10K on my Sienna, oil changed every 3K, and my oil has yet to turn black.
  • jmsimsjmsims Member Posts: 14
    I think sludge develops when oil changes are neglected and /or continued lack of warmup cycles occurs. I believe there is nothing inherent in the Sienna engine design that would cause sludge to occur more than with any other vehicle, and that owner negligence is the leading cause of problems. My own policy is to change the oil and filter every 3000 miles or 6 months with Mobil 1 synthetic. I do this on all three of my vehicles. No sludge yet. I also use Toyota oil filters which I buy in bulk when they are on sale.
  • pawleysislandpawleysisland Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna XLE that I purchased in March 2000. From the day we drove it home it pulled slightly left, sometimes more severely than other. I have had it checked by the Dealer several times, with the solution being either rotating the tires or adjusting the alignment. In June 2000, it started pulling hard to the left. The Service Manager at the dealership in Myrtle Beach, SC had received a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) in June from Toyota about adjusting the alignment outside the "normal" limits. This still did not fix the problem. On the way to the office this week, the van pulled left and I was unable to turn it back to the right. I "skidded" off the shoulder of the road and almost wrecked. I immediately took the van to the dealer. The service manager had the Factory Rep. test the car and finally had the entire rack replaced. The problem still existed. They also replaced the Firestone tires on the van with Michelin, however, the problem still exists. No one can determine why the van continues to pull to the left. Anyone else had a similar problem.
  • gbush1gbush1 Member Posts: 13
    Like you, I have always changed my oil every 3000 miles. I was just curious why car companies, including the big 3 of the US,Toyota,Audi,etc all have oil change at 10,000 miles in europe while in the US it is lower. The dealers over here think every 3000 miles is crazy. I can't find any data to show that there has been problems over here due to it. How can Toyota say driver neglect in the states, but recommend oil changes at 10,000 miles for the same engines? It just seems strange to me.
  • cblake2cblake2 Member Posts: 53
    "Pawleysisland," you are *not* alone. I am growing increasingly concerned about my pulling problem. If I take my hands off the wheel for a split second, the wheel goes to the left immediately so that I am heading into the next lane. It is most bizarre!

    I had the inner tie rods replaced in my steering. I asked why the entire rack and pinion was not replaced but I was told that my van did not fall within the T.S.B. The van wanders in general from side to side, even with new tires. Tire rotation only causes the shift of the pull from one side to the other. You might expect this with uneven tire wear and a chronic alignment problem. My van is "within the manufacturer's specifications for this model" and the symptoms are "characteristic of the model."

    Your episode has me concerned. I have not been led to believe there are any safety issues with my steering problem. I am thinking I would prefer the pull be back to the right (as it was originally) so that I can exit the road if the steering locks up. I would hate to think I was headed left into the fast lanes of traffic with no ability to counter!!

    I know for a fact that my tires are wearing unevenly as I am constantly pulling the wheel back to the right now. This jerky motion is bound to affect the suspension eventually, too.

    I like the van very much in terms of space, comfort, etc. What a shame that the quality has been compromised on this van....for what reason? Price?? You ought to be ashamed, Toyota! Please don't follow in Chrysler's footsteps....

    cblake@erols.com
  • cblake2cblake2 Member Posts: 53
    "Gbush1," the owner's manual for my '99 Sienna has a 7,500 or 6 month schedule for oil replacement. The 5,000 mile "special guidelines" apply if there is towing, rough road use, or extensive short-distance driving.

    Of course, the 3,000 mile oil change is better. BUT...the automaker does *not require* this. Some owners who indeed HAVE done every 3,000 mile oil changes STILL had the sludge problem. Toyota REFUSED to see the records in some cases. What's up with that???

    My husband has always kept to the 3,000 mile oil change routine. We have waited longer on the Toyota, however. Should I now EXPECT the sludge problem simply because we did not do sooner oil changes? I think not! And NO ONE at Toyota better tell me that I need a new engine on this van because of oil sludge!!

    We read the owner's manual cover to cover and we have no reason to blame ourselves for *any* of the problems encountered in the van to date. The part about spilled drinks and the horribly sticking door latches just irks me......why is Toyota asking the owner to be the scapegoat for a DEFECTIVE door latch?????? And I guess the "out of round" brake drums was caused when I actually *used* the parking brake as prescribed???? And the unevenly worn tires are because I just don't know HOW TO STEER my van, right?

    How long does this or any other automaker think that owners are going to tolerate being blamed for NORMALLY OPERATING their vehicles??? Am I driving a glass vehicle that is unusually fragile?? You would think so!!

    You know, the *crash results* are not very meaningful to me EXCEPT in that when my steering does decide to fail, at least I will probably live through the crash. OR, when the rear brake drums decide to warp due to a brake shoe sticking, I can careen into a nearby tree and live to see the next day. OR, if my transmission fails and the car behind me barrels into my backside, I will be OK.

    I have digressed, but you get my point.....

    cblake@erols.com
  • bmaigebmaige Member Posts: 140
    Sam121, I just read through the postings on this subject for the first time in a long time and saw your posting quite a ways back about buying a Windstar. I don't know if you've had any problems yet or not, but we bought a '95 and have had absolutely no problems with it and we have 78,000 miles on it. We love the way it rides, the way it drives, and the fact we can carry seven comfortably in it with room to spare for luggage. Ours has a four captain's chairs and a bench rear seat that slides forward or easily comes out for cargo.

    Ford has apparently had problems with the head gaskets in the 3.8 liter engine and the transmissions, especially in the '95's, but have extended the warranty for at least that year to 100,000 miles for that problem. As it turned out, we also bought our youngest son a '95 Mustang with the same 3.8 liter engine in it and manual five speed tranny. The engine in our Windstar has given no problems, but his blew a head gasket, and Ford "stonewalled" the same failures in it and all other models for a while, then, under threat by a good many people via the internet, of a class action suit for the same problems with the 3.8L engine, reimbursed us for the repair and extended the '95 Mustang warranty to 100,000 miles, as well.

    It seems that "stonewalling" widespread problems is the answer all manufacturers have, and perhaps have had for years, but the internet provides a single place disgruntled customers can compare notes, discover that is going on, share information and come together in a united effort that gets results. Now aren't you glad Al Gore invented the internet? Just kidding about that, folks! But it has been the most effective tool I have seen in a long time to get results from the big boys.

    But back to the subject, Sam121. Your Windstar may well be a good vehicle for you. Ours has, and, in fact, since we like ours so much, the rest of the vehicle is still in such good shape, and Ford is still putting the 3.8 liter engine in them, we are considering hanging on to it through 100,000 miles, getting the engine and tranny rebuilt, and keeping on driving it.

    Hope this makes you feel a little better about your purchase. And you may also notice you have a lot of company on the road in Windstars when you drive your Windstar.

    I hope your experience with yours is as great as ours has been.
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    For everyone who feels they have a serious pulling problem that is compromising their safety, you may want to consider taking your van to a specialized frame/suspension shop.

    It may cost you a couple of hundred dollars (US), but getting a permanent fix should be worth the expense. Look in the yellow pages, or contact a reputable body shop for a recommendation in your area.

    These shops have equipment that is used to make repairs when frames get bent. They can also diagnose and correct complicated alignment problems.

    Hope this helps....
  • readytobuy4readytobuy4 Member Posts: 24
    1. I'm a firm believer of changing oil every 3,500 miles. I used to do it myself on our '94 4Runner but cannot on our new '00 Sienna XLE. My question is why use synthetic oils or blends? I've always thought synthetics are best used for people who do NOT change their oil every 3-5k miles because they don't breakdown as quickly. If there's anyone knowledgable about this I'd like to hear from them. Also, is there really one brand that's better than others?? If you get oils that have the same ratings on the back of the bottle aren't they all basically the same?
    2. My van also pulls, but I believe it's based on the pitch of the road. It's definetly not a constant pull. We have Michelins and the van was re-aligned after the t/c replacement. If anyone has the solution let me know.
    3. I paid $700 for an extended warranty, if anyone hears about getting one from Toyota for free because of the t/c repair let us all know how you managed to do so.
  • jmsimsjmsims Member Posts: 14
    Check out http://www.mobil.com/mobil1_racing/about/why/benefits/index.html. Notice the part about sludge protection. Whether you agree with their claim or not is a personal decision. I decided to pay a little more for the synthetic, but I still change the oil every 3,000 miles.
  • speedracer3speedracer3 Member Posts: 650
    So much for my factory tires, after 15,000 miles the front tires are unevenly worn, and the back tires are totally scuffed. Bottom line, my Sienna needs 4 new tires to the tune of $400. Anybody else have Siennas that eat tires for lunch??.


    Speed
  • gbush1gbush1 Member Posts: 13
    Thanks for responding with the info you have in regards to your 99 Sienna and oil changes. I have been overseas for a bit so I appreciate it. Hope everything works out for you with the van. Like many said, you have lots of options, too bad you may have to choose one. Good luck.
  • toyotafantoyotafan Member Posts: 3
    Is it a problem to change the oil on the Sienna yourself? If so why?
  • beckpbeckp Member Posts: 20
    Not to beat a dead horse. It's been proven that synthetics offer the best protection over conventional motor oil. So my question to those wondering why use it, why not? If I'm going to spend close to $30,000 for a car I need it to last and remain mechanically sound. You offer yourself the best chance of this by using a synthetic oil.

    I'm on my fourth automoble using the synthetic products. The earlier ones all had great engines when they were sold, even my little, way under powered 1.2 liter Suzuki Samuri had over 100,000 miles on it and was running strong (well not really strong) when I sold it.

    I guess you could push synthetics but why risk it is my take. As far as changing the oil yourself on the Sienna, I do it and it is a pain. The filter is not upsidedown but rather at 45 degree angle. There is oil spilage that occurs when you remove the filter so I pack clothes (paper towels) around and just under the filter to avoid the block/engine mounts getting a bath. I've seen too many 20/20 or 60 minutes that talk about the problems with some (not all) quick lube places.
    Plus the convience of doing it myself.

    If you have a good mechanic or someone you trust and it's conienent for you, let someone else do it.
  • lynne29lynne29 Member Posts: 46
    What kind of tires do you have? What are you getting?
  • bob57bob57 Member Posts: 302
    I think Consumer Reports did a report on oil change versus mileage a while back. I recall their conclusion was that the 3K - 6K filter and oil change produced no difference when they torn down the engines for examination.
    But, the smaller engines of today putting out more horsepower and higher RPM's would probably benefit with a shorter period for oil changes. However, I have been driving my 10 year old Honda (with 150K miles) and change the oil (20W/50) at 6K. I don't see sludge and it doesn't burn oil. I do plan to change the oil in my new Sienna at 3k tho. It's not a Honda versus a Toyota thing - I think I'm just getting chicken!
  • jmsimsjmsims Member Posts: 14
    As I recall, that Consumer Reports study looked at taxicabs which tend to run for long periods of time. In other words, any condensation would tend to boil off and produce less sludge than with vehicles that are repeatably driven for a few miles and then shut down. Draw you own conclusions, but I would rather be conservative regarding frequency of oil changes. Our local Toyota dealer recommends changes every 3000 miles, despite what the manufacturer says. Same with our Saturn dealer. It's definitely not just a Toyota thing. The recommended change interval may depend somewhat on where you live and what type of driving you do. I live in a cold climate about half of the year, so Mobil 1 5W-30 every 3K miles is a good choice for me.
  • tomlhtomlh Member Posts: 8
    I guess Karen found my reply to offensive so she removed it. I'm reposting it with removing the part that said she was making a fool out of herself. I apologize for that statement, I should
    have said that her credibility will suffer by
    spreading misinformation.

    Heres my original post minus the last line.
    -------------------------------------------
    I don't believe for a second that someone who
    changed their oil every 3K, had a record of this,
    and had an engine failure do to sludge build up was denied a warrantee claim by Toyota.
    Unless you can provide proof, you should quit posting, your only passing along misinformation .
  • biologicbiologic Member Posts: 8
    I had reported a check engine light occurrence in this forum (diagnosed as shift solenoid) on a 2001 Sienna LE at 15 miles (200 ft out of dealer lot). After short discussion during which the dealer voluntarily brought up the issue of the 2000 Sienna TC/solenoid problem, we decided not to take delivery on day of "purchase". The dealer said he would locate another vehicle to meet our requirements. Gave us a Camry loaner. Our "requirements" changed on the next day to an XLE. Within a day or two he located our vehicle and within about three weeks it was delivered to another dealer and picked up by his driver. We took delivery, returning his loaner.

    We have about 400 miles on the 2001 XLE now and as yet no issues or problems. It is a nicely put together vehicle. Of course, I find myself forever looking down for that check engine light. But, I have confidence (hopefully warranted) that we'll never see it. If we do, will post here.
  • cblake2cblake2 Member Posts: 53
    My information is accurate based on owner experience. I post the trends as I glean them from other owners. I will tell you that in many more than ONE case, Toyota has said that it does NOT want to even SEE the oil change receipts. You can believe me or not. I do not worry about credibility because I am rather meticulous in my research. I wouldn't bother to post had I noted a remarkable similarity in situations among owners in this particular predicament.

    I have recently noted that in arbitration, the "handwritten receipts" obtained from legitimate mechanics were not accepted! What's up with that??

    Also, I have noted that oil analysis of one owner's vehicle oil revealed FUEL in it!! Perhaps it is a GOOD IDEA for owners to get samples of oil analyzed once mileage is say 25,000 or more? I have seen some posts that reveal less mileage than this, but most seem to occur between 25,000 and 36,000 miles, well within the warranty period.

    Could a mechanic reading these posts tell me what symptoms you would note if fuel is contaminating the oil? What feature of this van's design might cause the fuel to leak into the oil chambers??

    I own the van that could potentially have this problem. Why would I want to stop gathering information about it?? As long as I own the van, I will gather the information for my own protection.

    By the way, when I gathered and reported information a few years ago on the Chrysler ABS defect, I was told that I was spreading misinformation, too. So why was there ultimately a recall based on that "misinformation?"

    At this point, I honestly just want a safe and reliable vehicle. It bothers me to no end that I am forced to research in order to uncover KNOWN problems. It is not fair.....

    cblake@erols.com
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