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If there is more than just a drain and refill I would like to know where to access that information.
Thank you in advance.
When I got home, I checked the oil and was shocked to see that it looked as dirty after changing as it did before the change. I contacted the garage (Florida Tire/Goodyear) and they said bring it back, they would change it again, no charge, as they had just fired the person who had changed my oil because of several other customer complaints.
When I went to the garage the next day, the manager looked at the filter and concluded the oil had, in fact, been changed since a new filter was installed. When I challenged him on the dirty oil post-change, he stated I should have changed the oil the first time at 1000 miles (his theory apparently being that my oil was so dirty at 6300 miles that it would take two changes to clean up my crankcase, etc.). I told him about Honda's guidance (from a Honda service manager, the owner's manual, and from other sources) to go by the oil change indicator. The Florida Tire Mgr. still insisted 1000 miles for the first oil change. Of course, he is in the business of selling oil changes.
In any case, after driving home I checked the oil and it was clean after the second change. They installed the oil from individual 1-quart bottles, so I am sure the oil was new. I can only conclude that something other than new, clean, oil was installed the first time around.
I wonder how many people actually check their oil after taking it in for an oil change? Not many.
As far as the 1000 mile recommendation he made to you, that is simply not true. Almost ALL manufacturers (not just Honda) do not recommend that you change the oil on the first oil change before the recommended manufacturer time/mileage.
I try to avoid "cheap, fast" oil shops such as Jiffy Lube whenever possible (although last I heard, Jiffy Lube cost more than the dealer).. I usually either take my vehicle to the dealer, or a trusted local shop...
I just changed out the pollen filter in my 2005 Honda Odyssey Touring and it really wasn't very difficult. Be forewarned that the filter is expensive, like around $35, but after I saw how black the filter was, I'm glad I changed it. My van had around 25K miles on it when the maintenance reminder told me to get it changed. The location is right behind the big glove compartment. You need to pull our the "stoppers" on either side of the glove compartment - just pull them out and wiggle them a bit. You also have to remove the "pneumatic stopper" on the Left side, again just pull out. All three stoppers are snapped in, no screws or bolts. You may use a screwdriver though to pry them off. Once the stoppers are off, let the glove compartment drop completely down, and the "air box" where the filter is located will be directly in front of you. Just gently pull the plastic edges outward, and pull the plastic holder out. When you put the new filter in, be sure the "air flow" direction is correct - There will be an arrow on the new filter, just match it with the old filter.
Then reverse the above directions to get the stoppers back in place, again just snap them in. So really, this is no biggie. May take 30 minutes or so.
Good luck
Hi,
A few questions and comments on our post:
Question: What "synthetic" oil did you use for your oil change?
Comment: Not all, so called, "synthetic" oils are really 100% synthetic, such as Mobile-1. This is a rather lengthy, complicated discussion, which I won't get into right now.
Some Rambling: There seems to be quite a bit of confusion as to how long to go before doing oil changes on the Ody. Is is 3750 miles, per the owners manual, or should we go 5000 miles, or go by the on-board computer monitoring system. Now, without knowing how the on-board computer actually determins percentage of oil left, its hard to trust it. To me, the on-board monitoring system is something new, as far as my experience with it is concerned. I imagine its something new to Honda engineering as well. Its in its infancy (as far as I know). That being said, I imagine the system is rather rudimentary in how it collects data. I would speculate that the Odyssey actually does not analyze the "oil quality" in the engine to determine percentage left before oil change is required. Without knowing more, its hard to trust it. So, it all depends on how "safe" you want to be. If you go by "3750" miles, you're definitely on teh safe side, but cost is more. My salesman told me "5000 miles". Here's a suggestion if some mental peace - call around to all the Honda dealerships in your area and talk to the service manager. Ask the manager what the interval is. I bet each one will give a different answer between the 2 to 4 possibilities. You can then make a choice which way to go... change oil at "3750", "5000", or go strictly by the computer. If going by the computer, you'll probably have to do the least amount of oil changes. Also, I would add that most of the technicians are not up on the latest technology. They go by what they learned in auto-repair school. Automotive technology has been changing rather sharply. I wonder if they're all properly educated about the latest technology or are they telling the consumer what they know and not what they should know. By asking around a few different dealerships, you should get a better feel for it. I guess that's what I'm going to do when my first oil change comes up... oh, and by the way, I'll be using the real "100% synthetic oils".
As for your two questions:
(1) I think going 5000 mi. is "reasonable". Newer vehicles/engines can go more than the traditional 3000 miles.
(2) Doubtful your engine is damaged. Afterall, the indicator told you what % you had left, so if it becomes a warranty issue, you do have something to fall back on, don't you...
-Hypercore
Ouch, $35 is fairly expensive for just an air-filter.
Couple of quick questions:
1. Where did you buy the filter? From Honda dealership (OEM) or web-online after-market?
2. Do you have the part number for your '05 air-filter. I have an '06 and will most likely be the same part #.
I just bought the vehicle, so it'll be a few months before I have to do this service. I like taking care of these smaller things on my own (saves money and you learn something and are not so dependent on the service people to do the work).
I plan to do my own oil changes as well.
-Hypercore
One ATF filter is item number 7 in this pic of a 2005 trans. This might be user change-able.
http://www.slhondaparts.com/browse.asp?Model=ODYSSEY&Year=2005&TrimLevel=5DR+EX&- - TransLevel=5ATKA&Section=C&Category=ATM07++%7CAT++++++OIL+LEVEL+GAUGE%2DATF+PIPE- - &Doors=5&Emissions=KA&PartCatalogId=14SHJ5&ViewParts=true
25450-RAY-003 ELEMENT (ATF) $11.68
There are other screens through the trans. Not a routine maintenance operation.
Another filter, item number 10.
http://www.slhondaparts.com/browse.asp?Model=ODYSSEY&Year=2005&TrimLevel=5DR+EX&- - TransLevel=5ATKA&Section=C&Category=ATM0810%7CAT++++++REGULATOR&PartCatalogId=14- - SHJ5&ViewParts=true
27750-PL5-J01 FILTER, SECONDARY BODY $4.98
Another strainer, item number 6.
http://www.slhondaparts.com/browse.asp?Model=ODYSSEY&Year=2005&TrimLevel=5DR+EX&- - TransLevel=5ATKA&Section=C&Category=ATM0850%7CAT++++++SHIFT+FORK&PartCatalogId=1- - 4SHJ5&ViewParts=true
25420-PGH-003 STRAINER ASSY. (ATF) $36.60
There might be more.
http://www.handaaccessories.com/odymaint05.html
Tell everyone how it goes after 20-25K. Someone else said it was a piece of cake. This wasn't the case with '04s or older.
Do search this forum for the issue about single-use crush washers used in Ody drain plug. As I remember, most non-dealer places will simply reuse the washer and may overtighten the nut to cause drain pan thread stripping ($$$).
So before you dash off to Jiffy Lube, get a handful of these in your glove compartment.
-Hypercore
I read the owners manual cover-to-cover, and the only thing I can find is telling me to how to interpret the cryptic dashboard monitoring thing. I don't want to rely on the van telling me when I should change things. I want to be able to plan for it.
The things I really want to know are when to change the trans fluid, when to replace any timing or serpentine belts. (My 93 Accord had the timing belt replaced at 90K.)
BTW, I try to change my oil every 3000 miles or so. This provides me with a little padding if I can't get to it at exactly 3000.
And, thanks for the info about the one-time use drain plug washers - what kind of BS is that? Neoprene seems to have worked well for decades. Are they trying to make you void the warranty?
Thanks,
Fred
We just bought a 2006 Odyssey, and was wondering if there is a published maintainance schedule, or do you have to pretty much rely on the dashboard monitoring system.
Thx
We have a 2006 EXL and was wondering if it is possible to automatically lock the doors once you shift into Drive.
Thx
BTW, got a call from the person who "sold" my wife her van. Asked him the same question. His reply was that there was some kind of brochure at the dealerships front counter that spelled it out. Told me I could pick one up there. "HELLOOOOO" - pick one up? Why don't you just mail me one?
This is our third Honda. Had to be one of our worst buying experiences, EVER. They (American Honda and the dealership) better get more proactive, or this will probably be our LAST HONDA.
call honda.
if the purchase experience was poor - i can relate. i was jerked around by the biggest metro atlanta ga honda dealership. they posted an add in the Atlanta Journal Constitution which was very specific on LX models, and provided a price including fees.
they would not honor it, nor would they allow me to buy an "unbumped" vehicle (i.e. without dealer adds).
the salesman kept calling me back every 2 days, and i kept saying I DON'T WANT TO BUY A CAR FROM YOU OR ANYONE AT YOUR STORE.
he knew i was going to give him ZEROs on the cust. satisfaction survey - so he wasn't going to really sell me the car. he kept it up - just wanted to jerk my wife and i around because he wanted to i guess. certainly he knew better.
then again, maybe not.
i purchased our van from a dealership with a very good salesman that knew i was serious and bringing good money to the table. we met minds in 15minutes. total transaction time: 1 hour.
nice.
happy happy happy.
One time crush washers? Another overpriced way to rope the owner in to Honda Only Parts and Service. $0.75 each at my local high priced dealer (stealer). The copper colored washer on my Nissan's oil plug does not leak after 100,000 miles and has never been changed. Same with my Mitsubishi drain washer made of unknown metal.
And that Honda only transmission fluid. Overpriced at $7-8 at various dealers locally. Can't get it on a holiday or Sunday either, dealer only.
FWIW: none of the 3 families made their purchase at that particular dealership.
This was three years ago. Things change (or can change). Did you try dealing with someone there?
I have had the recall done for the a/t return line offset nozell fix, (a patch up job if ever there was one) The dealer didn't tighten up the fittings properly and I had a puddle of a/t fluid on the driveway the next day.
Took it back, and with a very serious face they told me that the "O-rings" had to be replaced on all the lines. Guess Honda Warranty got stuck with an even bigger bill when all they had to do was tighten one return line fitting. (and admit they didn't do it right the first time)
Yesterday I found the drain plug on the a/t and it takes a 3/8 square drive to get it out. Low and behold it was a magnetic drain plug that looked like a big fur ball with all the metal filings stuck to it.
Drained out the old fluid that is in the housing, cleaned the debris off the magnet and re-filled with 3 ltrs of Honda ATF fluid at $12.00 a liter. This is a painful, messy and inificient way to do the job, as the tranny might now have at best, a 50-50 mix of new and old dirty a/t fluid and filter in it.
What Honda should have done in the first place was install an in line, screw on filter that could be removed like any other spin on.
Without a complete removal of the whole transmission there is no way a dirty Honda Odyssey a/t filter can be changed.
I personally had a bad experience at Gwinnett Place about six years ago, and I will never walk onto their property again.
I have heard good things about Ed Voyles from 2 people who recently purchased there. Both report respectful and honest negotiation over email/phone.
Henessy seems to get some good comments in the Carspace forum.
Alland
than I have ever paid for a timing belt replacement.
Anyone have similar experience ?
My Oddy has about 86,000 miles. The manual recommends timing belt replacement at 90,000 miles. I plan to keep
the van for one more year before trading it in. Should I
just avoid changing the timing belt? Any advice ?
Raj
Just wondering if it is real recommendation or ..?
It is not recommanded by Honda.So you will not find it in service manual.
Dave
If you sell it privately, it is your choice. A lot of these Ody's go 150-180k+ miles with the original timing belt. My 2000 has 135k with the original belt - not worried at all. Will probably change around 150k.
Dave
Some electronic systems lose their settings without power. It worked in resetting many of my vehicles, including the check engine light caused by loose gas cap on my 04 Ody
if it does not, it suggests a possible problem with the emissions control monitoring system, perhaps a bad cap, or perhaps a bad vent valve, or more likely a bad filler neck tube going to the tank.
i'd say it should be off within the week. if not, bring it in and have them smoke test the vehicle for leaks.
Tony
but, if you register your used vehicle with Honda's "OwnerLink", there is the possibility a .PDF version is available to you for download.
there was for my '02 accord.