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I told him that my old Sienna went much longer and he said it was likely that was true, because the ODY is a "very heavy car yet people drive it for everyday" (DUH)
I'm wondering what other people's experience has been? I'm considering trading in the car, because it seems ridiculous and somewhat dangerous to own. Does anybody own the 2010 or 2011 ODY and have these problems? Is it an overall Honda problem? The tech seemed to suggest it was, even pulling up his own Pilot records to show me that he had his brake pads replaced at 20K.
In addition, we have found out that because we did not have the work done at a Honda dealer, there may be a problem with the master cylinder. There is a campaign to have the master cylinder replaced.
I think the weight issue is bogus. I honestly think it is a design defect of some kind. Either the rotors aren't large enough, or a problem with the anti-lock braking system. The rotors are warping, and this just should not happen with regular driving.
Click and Clack the Tappett Brothers on NPR say easy starts and gentle stops save a lot of wear and tear on vehicles. Try to drive as "far ahead" as possible and slow down and try to coast to a stop when practical. Everyone drives differently and "YMMV".
I have 2007 Honda Odyssey EX-L with 45000 miles. Currently, it is showing maintenance minder A1, which amounts to Oil Change.
My question is
Should I get complete 45000 service, which is about 200$, which includes oil change, transmission fluid change and other checks/refills.
or
Get the oil changed now and respond to next service minder when it shows up ?
Thanks,
Sudhakar
I really don't like this "guessing game" maintenance stuff. I'm too old school. Tell me what mileage it needs to be done on and I will take care of it.
But, the dealer shop always push me to change the transmission saying it is dirty/discolored.
Sudhakar
Ten days later, I noticed that at 55 mph, the steering wheel exhibited a different type of jiggle and I realized that my left rear tire was missing the weight that would be there to balance the tire. So I had all 4 wheels re-balanced and test-drove the car on the highway at 55 - 60 mph and all seemed good.
Less than a week later, I noticed that when I start from a zero, there is a slow jiggle (shimmy?) coming from the steering wheel. At 55mph the jiggle is very noticeable and I get a sound that coincides with the jiggle and appears to be coming from somewhere beneath the car - not the smooth sound I used to hear when all was well. I also notice that to drive straight ahead, the I need to keep the steering wheel turned about 5 or 8 degrees turned to the left.
Has anyone come across this? Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
The shop should have a tool that rests on the driver's seat and pins the steering wheel to keep it where you want it.
Another possibility, though unlikely, is the cotter pin was removed (broken) from the spindle/disc nut and the disc and wheel are working their way off the spindle. I did have this happen once when I had my discs replaced. The idiot mechanic never put a cotter pin through the nut and spindle and my wheel and disc were literally bouncing around back and forth on the spindle. Fought to have them pull the wheel and still never got an apology for the dangerous situation they put my family in. And, no, I did not go back.
Either way, something is definitely not right with your front end.
Good luck
I don't see any retainer to release when I peek under the latch and am at a loss.
Can anyone help?
Thanks!