Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

csargeant · July 2001

I have a 2001 Ranger XLT 4-door 4wd and the speedometer act erratically. I can be driving down the road at the speed limit and all of a sudden it jumps to 100mph and just hangs there. I took it to the dealership and of course it didn't do it for them and they said they couldn't find anything wrong. Any suggestions????

cpousnr · July 2001

More than likely the spedo sensor.
Think it is down on the wheel.
Its electronic not a cable.
That is what fixed my wifes LEbaron that had the same problem.

dle01 · July 2001

I have a 1999 Ranger 4 door 2WD with the 3.0V6 and automatic transmission. The truck has just over 40k on it, which puts it out of warranty. I recently noticed a small oil leak, and asked my favorite local repair shop (a Goodyear ASC) to take a look at it while the truck was in for an oil change last week. They inform me that the leak is coming from the main seal between the engine and transmission, and that the transmission will have to be removed to replace the seal. In addition, they tell me they have seen this frequently in Rangers, most recently on a 2000 model with just 15k.

Has anyone experienced this problem before? If it is a common problem, what are my chances of getting Ford to fix it even though the truck is out of warranty? Are there any known Technical Service Bullitins or recalls for this problem?

I am going to fix it regardless, but I think it is pretty absurd that this kind of problem is occurring on a truck this new. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

midnight_stang · July 2001

If it's small, just put a dab of silicone on it. Unless you like spending money.

Is it me or does it seem those who double post never check back?

dle01 · July 2001

midnight_stang -- I have been checking back frequently. Thanks for your advice on the silicone. I'm going to check with the dealer first, and if no response then I just might try it.

Is double posting some kind of bad net ettiquite thing? If so, I'm sorry.

midnight_stang · July 2001

I'm not sure how bad your main seal leak is, but all gaskets just wear out eventually. Try working with header gaskets on a 460 big block in a 67 mustang! I probably replace one side or the other twice a year.
The silicone is what I'd do if the dealer makes you pay. Because all you have to do is spray a little carb cleaner or other grease cutter on the under side, start 'er up, and see where it comes from. Then you take a hefty amount of silicone and make a seal around the leak. It should take 15 minutes and 3 bucks, with that method. I also don't think there's any Ranger typicality or TSB related to it, or spoog would have posted it by now... (See Ranger vs Tacoma forum):)

ebbgreatdane · August 2001

Midnight -
You cracked me up with the spoog comment. How true it is.

Oil Leak -
I'm not sure how long the silicon will last you down there. Definitaley it won't hurt but check it once a year. Heckuva lot cheaper and less problematic than letting your dealer dip into your tranny.

How large is the leak? If it's say between 1 and 2 drips per day, try the silicon and make sure to degrease that area once every other month or so. Is this an automatic? If so, oil not degreased from those surfaces will adhere to the metal and collect dirt causing your transmission and motor to not be able to dissapate heat properly (i.e., it starts to act like insulation in a bad way) and will do things like cause transmission and engine oils to bake and fail prematurley.

If it's a larger leak, say 3-6 drops per day, well, looks like your doing some maintenance. You may also want to try the Maintenance section of Town Hall.

Good Luck,
John

96flea · August 2001

Took my 96 4.0 w/45000 miles on it to Pepboys cause the engine light came on. They found nothing and resat the computer. 120 miles later the light came back on so i took it to a private owned garage. They found a tranny code came up on their computer. They resat it and said it was really nothing to worry about. The light has not came on again yet. Has anyone else had this problem? The truck runs good. It has the occasional clunk in rear end but its done that for a while. Also, how do you get swirl marks out of a black paint job?

midnight_stang · August 2001

Swirl marks typically come from scratches occured while washing or waxing with dirt on the sponge or towels. You can usually minimized the appearance, or even clear up the not-so deep ones by using a good product line of waxes. I use Mcguires. Basically you'll need to use a body scrub/paint cleaner/scratch filler. Some people like clay bars to help remove the particles. Then a paint polish to get paint oils and colors back to new. The a clear coat wax/carnauba wax to seal it all in. Since you have black paint, really top it off with a lot of clear coat polish to keep the UV's from fading the paint.

96flea · August 2001

96flea · August 2001

Thanks for that info but i think i'll have it done. Never heard of a clay bar but i've seen a Blue Coral product that claims to get rid of swirl marks. As for the code that came up it was a emmisions code. The secretary thought the mechanic said transmission code, big difference! He said it had someting to do with a canister, but what? Clean it or does it stick? He did not tell me so has any one had this problem before? I cannot complain about this truck. Usually every used car i buy something goes wrong in the 1st year i buy it. Since the Ranger got a better reliability rating than the Civic in the 96' year it makes me feel better.

96flea · August 2001

I find it hard that my Ranger is to go 100,000 miles until 1st tune up. So any of you suggest when i should change the plugs, fuel filter, pcv valve, wires (what type of wires and where should i buy them) and when should i have the fuel injectors cleaned? I have a reg. cab, 2 wheel drive, 4.0 v6 w/46000 miles.

midnight_stang · August 2001

100,000 miles until the timing chain should be replaced. Plugs could last that long, but would be pretty bad at that length of service. I think the plugs are on a separate schedule anyways. But everything you listed will cost under 20 bucks to replace, except a "in-tank" filter or the injectors. So I'd say check them every 15-20k or so, and see if they are bad. If you're a do-it-yourselfer, you can change any of the above (except intank filter or injectors) in less than 30 minutes. And keeping on top of those items will only help your power output and fuel economy. Don't forget things like belts, air filter, hoses, and fluid levels and replacement.

ebbgreatdane · August 2001

So true to their form a distributless motor removes most of the need for having a tune up (most of which is adjusting the distributor to TDC and ensuring the vehicle has the correct timing).

Most vehicles with a Tune-recommendation of 100K miles recommend that the plugs be changed every 60K - 100K miles. The reason is not really obvious but if you think about it...your car/truck is keeping better timing without the distributless system. Therefore your spark plugs, becaused of the increased precision, tend to last in most cases, 5-6 times as long as they previously did (i.e., there is less fouling on the insulators and electrodes which will cause the plugs less damage and wear with every mile you drive). It's normal and if you feel you need to change them, it won't hurt the car. Just your wallet.

The fuel filter for a pressurized injection system (all fuel injected cars) is generically 20K miles. Check your manual though and it will tell you exactly.

PCV valve? A $.97 part you can do yourself or tack it on your tune up when they do it. Don't waste your money on this one till at least 40K miles.

Spark plug wires? You would only need to change these if: A)They're corroded or B)They're failing or C)You want to waste your money. Unless you bought the car used, I wouldn't concern yourself with these too much.

Good Luck

96flea · August 2001

I got the left tube off the filter but cannot get the right side off. What trick is there if any. Its a 96 w/4.0. Help!!!

midnight_stang · August 2001

The fuel filter should have clips holding the fuel lines to either end of the filter. Make sure you have the clip off. If one end is stuck, first try to rotate the filter inside the hose, until it is freed. If it's still on there, take some pliers and using minimal force as to not rupture the line, hold the fuel line while pulling on the filter. Still stuck? Try a little penetrating lube or wd-40. Last resort is to cut off the hose right where it is wrapped around the filter nozzle. Before doing this, make sure you have plenty of slack so you aren't buying a new fuel line because you cut it too short...
Consult a Chilton's manual for more help.

96flea · August 2001

The filter is able to rotate within the fuel line. It looks as if the notch that is in the tube of the filter could be jammed into the fuel line. I looked at Chiltons and was no help.

96flea · August 2001

Just went to www.rangerpowersports.com and they said i need a specialtool cause the one side of the filter is spring loaded. Guess i'll spend another $10-20!

midnight_stang · August 2001

jcc6 · August 2001

I have a 2001 V6 4.0L 4WD XLT Ranger. It has a manual transmission, and I am very satisfied with the horsepower and the way the truck handles. However, on three separate occasions, I have stalled out downshifting from 3rd to 2nd gear. All three times I've had the A/C on and it has been raining. The rpm's really take a dive with the A/C on when I downshift, but the stalling has only occurred during rainstorms. I've took it in to be checked but they found nothing wrong....Any Suggestions??

dbkc413 · August 2001

Hey! It seems like we have identical problems. I have a '95 Ranger 3.0 - I have that clunk in the rear end and that check engine light. I belive the code was scanned at 1443, which indicates a evaporative emissions system purge control valve circuit malfunction in the vapor canister. In one book it got more specific and stated that the valve was stuck open. I have to get around to fixing that. But one question -- Have you figured out what that annoying clunk is in the rear end? I have had people tell me it is from spring wrap and others have told me that the slip yoke on the drive shaft sticks. They said to drill out and put a grease fitting on - I don't know about that one. My clunk usually only happens when I am compleating a turn. I think it may have something to do with the differential. E-mail me at dbkc413@yahoo.com and tell me about your clunk.

dmould · August 2001

JCC6 - I too have had a problem with my 2001 Ranger XLT 4WD stalling. It only occurs with the A/C on, when I press the clutch when coming to a stop. It has probably happened about 10 times in 5000km of driving, and not just on the rainy days. I have not gone to the dealer yet. Let me know what you come up with!

goldranger · August 2001

on my 2k1 XLT supercab the right window chatters/shudders when lowed in the morning and its damp out. Not so bad when it warms up. I notice a TSB on All Data .com. Has anyone else encountered this?

Thanks

jcc6 · August 2001

I had a 2000 XLT SC w/ power windows and both driver and passenger side vibrated when I would put them down. First the driver's side window started, and I had it fixed. Then the passenger side started, and I had to get that fixed. I had the truck for 9 months before I traded it in, and right before I traded you could hear the passenger window starting to drag again. Now, I have an '01 XLT SC w/ winding windows, and my drivers side squeaks like hell when I wind it up. Ford just isn't good with their windows. They seem to only fix them temporarily.

427435 · August 2001

I just did a bunch of maintenance stuff (plugs, wires, fuel filter, and front brakes)on my son's fiance's '96 Ranger with the 2.3 four cylinder. When I volunteered to do it, I thought the motor would be like the 2.3 in my '94 Topaz---boy was I suprised by all the spark plugs (8) in next to impossible places to get to. Did get them all changed, however, and yes you need a little tool to release one end of the fuel filter. I needed it for my '93 Grand Marquis so I had it already.

Anyway, I also noted that this motor evidently has an overhead cam with an external belt drive. The truck has 95,000 miles on it and I'm wondering what the life expectency is for this belt. Also, if the belt breaks, do valves hit pistons and other bad things?

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

midnight_stang · August 2001

the 2.3l sohc wants a new belt I believe every 60,000 miles(It might be as high as 80, will check my manual on a lunch break). You don't have to worry about any contact in the combustion chamber in the event of the belt goes south (But make sure it's not a 2.5l, as they are identical, just a little more stroke.) Besides if it does snap, then you gotta realign the cam and crank, so it's easier to just keep on top of it.
Did you have fun changing the exhaust (driver's) side of the spark plugs?

pjamesh · August 2001

My 93 3.0/5spd with 132K has started to surge at idle, especially (but not only) when the engine is cold. The idle will dip very low then surge back to normal. I have never had any other major problems. Any ideas?

427435 · August 2001

It's bad enough that the rice-grinder engines need timing belts changed before 100,000 miles but I'm sure not inspired by a Ford engine that needs a timing belt changed as often as one changes platinum spark plugs!!

I noted on www.rangerpowersports.com that many posters claimed no problems with their 2.3's to 150,000 miles plus----are they just treating a $300 timing belt replacement as "routine maintenance"? Or is Ford's recommendation designed to pump up service business?

Anyone out there with lot's of miles on a belt or experience with when a belt actually broke?

Appreciate any feedback as my son and his fiance are on a tight budget and I don't want to tackle replacing it myself. (That is unless it's easier then changing the plugs---and it could be).

427435 · August 2001

A vacuum leak could cause a surging idle.

96flea · August 2001

I changed my fuel filter and pcv valve and my engine light came on again. I'm gonna try looking at the control purge valve that might be stuck open as i see many posts of that nature. But, where is it? Is it that canister next to my battery? And will i mess it up just by opening it? And how do i make sure it stays unstuck? Any info would be helpfull.

96flea · August 2001

Chevrolet! What it really stands for: Constantly Having Every Vehicle Recalled Over Lousy Engineering Technology. Anyway, a freind of mine that owns an s-10 heard that somewhere. I went over to the s-10 forums and i thought Rangers had problems! Rangers come nowhere close to s-10 problems. Ranger problems are somewhat small but few biggies but s-10's blowing seals and gaskets at 10k! Trannys slipping, power windows failing, numerous computer problems all on s-10's less than 2 years old. My Ranger gets treated like an only woman on a pirate ship and nothing but a little engine light problem (better not brag yet, knock on wood).

midnight_stang · August 2001

Or titanium for that matter? If you go over 30 thousand miles you really start hurting your performance and MPG. Especially when a tune up costs about 20 bucks. And even with the dual spark head, you're not gonna get better performance with platinum plugs more than you would with fresh plugs. Aren't Autolite/Motorsport plugs like 1.25 to 1.50 anyways?

And you can probably do the belt yourself, I forget if the thermostat housing needs to come off to take off the cover, but if you don't have a service manual (haynes) or the time and knowhow, it's best just to do it at the recommended intervals. Like I said, if it breaks, you'll just be stranded for a while, but the engine won't be hurt from valve to piston contact. However if it breaks while running, your bottom end is still turning while the valves don't. This would cause detonation in the intake manifold, and is not good at all.

goldranger · August 2001

427435,

I changed my 90 2.3 timing belt @ 90,000 miles. It still looked OK. It was just starting to crack on the inside at the teeth. I wouldn't go much past 90K. I've also done plugs on 90 & 95 2.3s lots of fun.....

427435 · August 2001

I drive lots of miles and don't have the spare time to do unneccessary maintenance anymore (sooner go fishing anyway). I've been running the platinum plugs at least 50,000 miles without any problems. I also log every gas fill and keep an eye on mpg as that will give you an early warning on things failing. By the way, I've got 209,000 miles on a Topaz and no engine problems to date.

To me platinum plugs are like the Mobil 1 oil that I run for 6,000 miles (winter) to 9,000 miles (summer). Less hours (and problably cost) doing maintenance and more time for other things.

Also, the platinum plugs I took out of my son's fiance's '96 Ranger at 95,000 miles were probably the originals. Vehicle had been running OK except engine light had recently come on (who knows what turned that on). Changed plugs, wires, fuel filter because she had never done any of that since buying it at 50,000 miles. The plugs were erroded quite a bit and they needed changing but they were platinum Motorcraft with the original factory plug number. They also looked worse than the plugs I pull out at 50,000 to 70,000 miles on my own vehicles.

bolivar · August 2001

There is a Idle Control Valve (ICV) (this is probably the wrong name, something about Idle Control).

This controls the air mixture into the throttle area. It can carbon up and cause idle problems.

On my 94 4L, it is a silver/polished alumium canister looking thing on the left side on the motor, on the intake housing. Has wires and a connector. It is the size of 35mm film canister, but longer, about 4 inches or so.

Remove connector. Mine had 2 screws/bolts holding the 'cannister' on. The gasket under mine didn't stick or come apart and was easily re-used. You can take this apart. There is a plunger inside. I just cleaned with carb spray cleaner. I didn't have idle problems, but just cleaned as regular maintenance.

You can also buy new one and replace. Not real cheap, maybe around $50.

For general idle problems, this is first thing I would look at......

Bad plug wire could cause an idle 'miss'. I changed my plug wires when I could hear the ignition on my FM Radio stations. The AM was even worse, but I never listened to those. I had about 60,000 miles when I changed the plug wires. Bought then at Autozone/ORiley for about $25-$30. I don't believe in high-dollar plug wires, regular ones work fine.

pinetted · August 2001

I have a 96 Ranger XLT 4x4 with about 57K on it. We purchased it used with 10K on it and the only problem we have had is with the clutch slave making noises. It has been replace twice under warrenty and has started acting up again. The truck is now out of warrenty and I am getting ready to fight with the dealer about the repair. Anyone else have a similar problem.

tammycampbell8 · August 2001

Mine has had tranny problems. Have any of you 98 owners experience anything with your tranny in the standards regular cab.
tlc88@bellsouth.net

bobhoh · August 2001

Hey folks with stalling Rangers. I just had this happen to my 1999 Ranger XLT with 29,000 miles. I have been driving the car exactly the same way I always have since I purchased the truck used, but on Friday it died twice while I was slowing for a light in neutral. The air conditioner was on once, but not the second time. I noticed that no one seems to have any words of wisdom on this stalling problem. Are there any on this issue? It seems like something minor is always going wrong on this truck. I've never had a "newer" model car. Is this normal? I had a Ford Bronco II for ten years and I NEVER had these little problems all the time. I guess the "Fix Or Repair Daily" saying still fits.

96flea · August 2001

I am now getting a vibration around 65-85mph. I just had the tires balanced and they are fairly new. Anyone had the same problem? I have a 96 reg. cab 2wheel dr w/4.0 auto, its still a pup w/ only 46000 miles. I have noticed that it leans toward the drivers side on the front. Maybe a balljoint or maybe u-joints and how can i tell if its either?

spoog · August 2001

"Hey folks with stalling Rangers. I just had this happen to my 1999 Ranger XLT with 29,000 miles. I have been driving the car exactly the same way I always have since I purchased the truck used, but on Friday it died twice while I was slowing for a light in neutral. The air conditioner was on once, but not the second time. I noticed that no one seems to have any words of wisdom on this stalling problem. Are there any on this issue? It seems like something minor is always going wrong on this truck. I've never had a "newer" model car. Is this normal? I had a Ford Bronco II for ten years and I NEVER had these little problems all the time. I guess the "Fix Or Repair Daily" saying still fits."

this is due to the ignition ring melting...

Ford has announced a HUGE recall, around 5 million vehicles. This malfunction causes the Ranger to stall.

Ford is junk.

modvptnl · August 2001

what the heck is an "ignition ring melting"??

If you're suggesting the Thick Film Ignition(TFI) is at fault you are either very ignorant or just trying to spread false rumors or both. The TFI affected vehicles from '83-'95.

Bob, I'm assuming you're still under warranty. my guess is it's a TPS that needs adjustment or the servo(forget what it's called) that ups idle RPM with A/C on. Both probably Japanese parts.

At least you don't have to worry about your head gasket blowing or your sheet metal rotting away. (neither does spoof, since he doesn't own a truck)

bobhoh · August 2001

Thanks for the advice on the stalling Ranger Jason. I must confess that I find it disconcerting when individuals provide such wildly different responses to Ranger problems. I have looked on the Alldata listing for 1999 Ranger recalls and I did not spot anything of the nature mentioned by Spoog. Not knowing what anyone's credentials are, how does one know who to believe? I will call the dealership (probaby a bad idea) today and have them make some suggestions.

frey44 · August 2001

i have a nightmare vibration problem in my ranger (as i have already posted). it is fully loaded extended cab 2000 model 4x4 with 5 speed auto. i LOVE the truck EXCEPT for the vibes at freeway speeds (just as you describe). many have posted that a driveshaft problem is possible in EXTENDED cabs because of a yoke slip-joint manufacturing problem. that is apparently NOT the cause in my case (i do NOT know if this same problem exists in reg cabs ??). i had new Michelins put on and balanced via Hunter 9700: perfectly round and balanced. i suspect mine is an axle or engine resonance problem (it is NOT suspension jitter; it is a foot numbing vibration, much like motorcycle footpegs on a Harley), and after 6 lengthy trips to the dealer, have given up. i am now trying to sell it to buy a new Tundra. [this experience truly makes me sick, as it is my first NEW vehicle in my life, and my first 4 x 4, and my FIRST FORD...now, my last]. i am DONE with American brands forever. the 4.0 pushrod is a shaker (but i LOVE its torque), and i am pretty certain it is transferring vibes to the undercarriage as it dances around under load in those rumbber mounts. i would first have your driveshaft removed and have it checked for trueness and balance, and check VERY CAREFULLY all joints. next, check wheel bearings and engine mounts. ALSO MAKE SURE you do NOT have even a slightly bent wheel. ALSO don't overlook shocks for any slope or mounting loosness. make sure BOTH shocks are fully damping properly (my stock shocks from Ford were flimsy when new !! they work, however.) good luck; i hope you have a better outcome than me !!

kit1404 · August 2001

That is like going from a Ranger to an F-150 which is what I did with no regrets. Frankly, I agree and I have been an a long-time off and on Ford purchaser - the Rangers leave a lot to be desired. After a major engine problem with a 1998 4.0 loaded 4X4, traded it for a very nice F-150 5.4 4X4 and just could not be happier with this truck. Maybe before you go the Tundra move - which I also checked out (really not very big and not enough engine) you might want to see what you can do trading in your Ranger on an F-150. By the way, mine averages nearly 17 mpg at high up and down New Mexico altitude.

frey44 · August 2001

I am not especially opposed to the F 150. I think it is far superior to the Ranger (knowing what i know NOW, after the fact, I was an idiot to buy the Ranger in the first place...only I am to blame for that dumb mistake). The F150 is a real nice truck. However, my local Ford dealer leaves a LOT to be desired (doesn't care about the customer AFTER the sale...he is a "Blue Oval" dealer...what a joke !!)) SO, my decision to go with the Tundra is more DEALER related than brand at this point. If I did buy an F 150, I would opt for a 2 x 4 with LS and the small V8. SO, I am planning to buy a Tundra with those same specs. I honestly think the Tundra, Silverado and F 150 are ALL very nice machines (I have learned, FOR ME, ride quality and lack of noise and vibration is very important...this is where the Tundra REALLY has the edge). All the problems posted about the Chevy have scared me away from it, however...it seems that GM can't get it quality control act together. I am beginning to think that the Tundra buyer is quite different, anyways from the typical Ford, Dodge, Chevy "macho" crowd anyways. I am not sure that it is any more fair to compare an F 150 to a Tundra anymore that it is to compare a Chevy Malibu to a Lexus. They are quite different in concept, and I think these trucks are clearly being marketed to different "crowd" altogether. I don't care about going up logging roads or towing 8000 pounds or cruising around trying to look macho. I just want a quiet, smoother, reliable truck to drive on the highway: I think I am the type of buyer Toyota is trying to sell Tundras too anyways.

midnight_stang · August 2001

Just make sure you take your new purchase for a test drive before you sign the paperwork... And at speeds over 45 mph.

soco2 · August 2001

We'd appreciate suggestions/advice re our '00 Ranger 3.0 A/T ext.cab.
1) After entering a highway from a gravel road, loud metallic pings are heard (even felt) as stones fly out of the Mich. LTX tread and hit the rear fenderwells. Is there a Ford or aftermarket plastic fender liner (like the front well liner) available?
2) The '01 Ranger we rented from Budget for our Wisc. vacation rode more smoothly than ours, and there was less noise and vibration from the engine. Which '01 changes could be retrofitted at moderate cost?
Thanks for your help.

frey44 · August 2001

Your 3.0 Ranger has undergone 2 mportant changes for 01: All aluminum drive shaft with redesigned hub flange and yoke (only on the 3.0, NOT found on the 4.0), and a re-jiggering of the engine mounts, to allow them to absorb more vibration. A lot of the floorboard buzz is from the engine-drivetrain resonance, and is a common problem in Rangers. You will notice it even on perfectly smooth pavement at highway speeds. Also, ignition timing and fuel flow has beenaltered slightly to try to reduce pinging, another nororious problem of the 3.0 motor. A lot of guys would switch to hi octane gas to try to eleiminate that.

jleefmly · August 2001

I own a 97 ranger. Had same problem the dome light/door ajar switch is located inside the door latch area. The switch is getting all gunked up. Buy a can of PB blaster at you local auto store and spray the latch assembly. This will clean the door ajar/dome light switch and correct the problem. I got this tip from a ford tech. Worked for me no more problem.

midnight_stang · August 2001

I'm not sure about a plastic inner fender wall you could buy or install, but you could probably make do with a thick coat of Rhinoliner or other "paintable" bed liner. Just give your '00 a good washing, let her dry, and apply liberally under the wheel well. That should really help the rock noise, and a tiny bit of road noise as well.

"A lot of the floorboard buzz is from the engine-drivetrain resonance, and is a common problem in Rangers. You will notice it even on perfectly smooth pavement at highway speeds." -Not a common problem frey, just a reason you test drive every car you are looking into buying.

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