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The low fluid can be because of a leak or just ordinary wear of pads/shoes which move out and more fluid displaces into the system, lowering the level. If this happens, and more fluid is added, fluid will need to be suctioned out while replacing the pads/shoes, otherwise the fluid will overflow the master cylinder when the wheel cylinders are pushed back in for the new pads/shoes.
:-)
its people like you that makes this forum worth coming to.
again, Thank you so much for your help in fixing my problem
Skillet007
I've never known of one that 'blinks'. They are on or off.
But actually, why worry now after 170,000+ miles.
This is a close call, because running well the truck is worth maybe $6,000.
Generally if there's a bad knock you haven't got much choice---it's not as simple as a valve job.
I figure you'll be in the hole minimum $1,500 (old used engine found locally, installed by shade tree mechanic) to $4,000++ (remanufactured engine) + whatever shipping costs.
You might bring it to a bonafide mechanic and have him/her listen to it...maybe you'll get lucky and it's just a broken crankshaft pulley (this is an external part).
Just to complicate your life - For 4L (the older 4L motor) Rangers in the years of this truck (2001-199?), many had the 'marbles in a tin can' knock/rattle. Especially noticable at idle, going away off idle.
In all my major reading on Ranger boards, I never found a definitive cause for this. "Piston slap" was one of the big quesses.
Ford, in general, resisted doing anything under warranty fro this problem. But some people did get a new motor or short block. With the problem, I think, even coming back in the new motor. I think it is some kind of known design problem that Ford did not want to fix. And they brought out the 208hp OHC 4L, which was a totally different in 2002 (I think), and I never heard the 'marbles in a can' problem with this motor.
The storm of postings about this problem seemes to have died out a lot. (And, I read far fewer message boards about Rangers lately.) And people were posting that they had had the knocking for 30, 40, 50,000 miles and the motor was still running strong.
Anyway. If this is the 'old' 4L motor, and the knock goes away off idle, I might give it a try at this low, low price.
A salvage 3L with 100,000 miles might have quite a few miles left in it.
Thanks in advance for any info or assistance.
They replaced the front and rear pads and said the front disks needed to be replaced, but didn't claim the front calipers needed replacing. The other shop told me the calipers were shot but they could machine the rotors.
So, for pep boys, new front rotors, front and rear brakes, machine back drums-around $330 minus $50 instant rebate and $40-so about $240 mail in rebate. I ended up not getting new parking brake cables at pep boys because they were quoting me $50 per cable(needed 2) plus $150 labor. Told them to forget it-for $250 I'll park the truck in gear(it's a manual transmission). Went to NAPA's website and they were charging less than $20 per cable.
Despite Pepboys not trying to get me to buy new caliper like the other shop(Just Brakes), I still feel like pepboys was trying to take advantage of me. I'd get one call after another from them telling me I needed this or I needed that. All I wanted were some lousy brake pads and shoes.
This whole experience ticks me off. I can't tell who to trust and who is trying to scam me. I should have just gone with my first instinct and traded the truck in for a new car. At least then I know that I'm dealing with someone who's trying to take advantage of me.
Good luck.
Hondo6
Jim
Fix #2 - There is a mud flap inside the wheel well that keeps crap from entering the engine compartment. Look and see if you have wear marks on that. If so your tires are rubbing against it when you turn and stick making a clicking noise. If so just stuff the mud flap behind the bar that runs underneath it.
Hope that fixes you up!!!!
Fix #2 - There is a mud flap inside the wheel well that keeps crap from entering the engine compartment. Look and see if you have wear marks on that. If so your tires are rubbing against it when you turn and stick making a clicking noise. If so just stuff the mud flap behind the bar that runs underneath it.
Hope that fixes you up!!!!