Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Replacing a fuel filter is $14 and is like cheap insurance. The filter is located under the car, before the rear wheel (passenger's side) and is fitted with easy fit connectors at both ends. That means it takes you 10 minutes to replace it yourself.
Unless your car is under the basic comprehensive warranty, firing a letter to VW will do little but make them aware since they will claim lack of scheduled maintenance (which obviously includes fuel filter replacement at every 20k miles/30 months diesel engines and 30k miles/48 months gasoline engines) Be aware of pitfalls like these, threaten them with BBB and be persistent. You never know, you might have a decent shot at this.
Good luck
Both this Beetle and my last one had the sensor defects, which is now a widely know problem due to a defective part. I only found out about this by doing searches on the Internet. Problem is, my first Beetle was a 2000 and the problem wasn't fixed by the time that lease ran out and I foolishly bought a 2002! I even filed a Lemon Law complaint with Massachusetts with my latest Beetle because of the sensor problem, but that just made VW fix the sensor before the Lemon law deadline.
First Beetle had problems with the oil light coming on before it was even due for an oil change and I also had the window problem that they later acknowledged and took care of, but not until I had to pay out money and be without a car for almost a month each time. Second Beetle has had brake problems, sensor problems and now a leaking problem that they tell me isn't under warranty!
After a heavy rainstorm last week the car had about two inches of water on the floors. My first thought was that the windshield was leaking so I took it to a glass company to get that checked. They told me that the problem was with the sunroof drain tube and looked like a manufactureresso I brought it to the VW dealer because it was still under warranty. Of course I only assumed this was covered because it seemed to be a defect. They told me today that it will cost $95.00 just to check it out and that water leaks are not covered. I asked them how I would know that a drain tube that is completely covered inside the car could be clogged and they acknowledged that I couldn't possibly know, but it still wasn't covered.
Does anybody know if there is any recourse with this issue and the fact that is is not covered by VW warranty? I'm tired of having so many problems that turned out to be defects and VW does not acknowledge the defects until much later. I'm willing to fight this to the end this time, I just don't know where to start.
Thanks for any advice...
Does anyone out there have a Turbo Convertible Automatic Tiptronic who is having similar problems. They say misery loves company. I have a friend with a regular Beetle and a Turbo and he said he is barely getting 18 mpg. Everyone tells me the turbo uses more gas. Well if that is true then why are they advertising 22 city and 29 Highway.
I have had only one other problem and the airbag safety light guy came on and wouldn't go off. They said they had to replace the whole part which is located under the front bumper of the car. It was covered by the warranty. However, I am seriously thinking of cutting my losses and dumping the car. It is gorgeous to look at. It is fully loaded. It has the leather seats, dual front and dual side airbags, leather trim. The original owner paid almost $29,000 for the car. I think this is one very overpriced vehicle.
Incidentally, I just shot off a letter to VW expressing my disappointment over the lousy mileage. I don't expect any results but I did get it off my chest.
Anyone who would like to respond - all replies will be welcome.
A bad head gasket doesn't always mix coolant with oil BTW. Sometimes you'll find instead that combustion gases are in the coolant (which you can check for with a simple testing device).
A bad head gasket doesn't always mix coolant with oil BTW. Sometimes you'll find instead that combustion gases are in the coolant (which you can check for with a simple testing device).
Another tipoff for head gasket might be pressure in your coolant overflow tank.
1. My car is a 2000 New Beetle.
2. I purchased the remote on ebay. New old stock with an uncut key. It was sold as fitting 1999 & 2000 models. The bar code sticker was still attached. It is as follows: 1J0 959 753F/5FA 8137-30B. The only difference between the blades that I can tell is that the valet key has NAA stamped on it, and the new switchblade key has HAA stamped on it.
3. The dealer cut the key using the valet key that came with the car. This was the only key that I received with the car. When I told him that I would program it myself is when he showed me the brochure and told me that I needed him to program it. I drove home using the valet key. I then programmed the remote using your instructions. The doors will lock and unlock and the trunk release works. However, when I attempt to start the car it will crank, start momentarily, and the shut off.
Any additional information will be greately appreciated.
Your cars are equipped with immobilizer systems but not all of them, 1998 and early 1999 do not. Mine is a 1999.5 and there is no immo. so I was in luck with my procedure. Starting 1999.5 late year, the cars came with it so your problem is simple, your immo does not recognize the blade and shuts the engine off exactly like opening a door with a remote and not actually getting in the car, the immo will lock them after a short 2-3 minutes. Immo models 2 and 3 are on the market depending on the year of the car.
Switchblades you bought are of several types and several years. I will break them down for you following this. One other thing, VAG-COM is a tool that the dealer uses to make the immo car recognize the new switchblade and thus prevent shut-offs.
Here we go:
Key remote replacement for 1999.5 – early 01 models
For those who are using the old style key and wish to switch using the new style ones, please note that there are two different versions of the new style keys out there with different part #s. Both versions of the new style keys look exactly identical, but only one of them works with cars that originally came with the old style keys. For reference, the following are the part #s of all switchblade remotes for the mk4s:
Old style:
1J0 959 753 F -- (for immobilizer 2)
New style:
1J0 959 753 T -- (for immobilizer 2)
1J0 959 753 AM -- (for immobilizer 3)
If you’re sure that your car originally came with the old style keys, then you would know that your car is equipped with immobilizer 2 (except 1999.5 models which are not immobilizer equipped). So to switch using a new style key, the one with part # 1J0 959 753 T would be the right one you need, since it works with immobilizer 2 equipped mk4s (as well as the immobilizer unequipped 1999.5 models).
Key remote replacement for 2001 – 04 models
Please refer to the previous section for the part # of the key remote for your car, just make sure the replacement you’re getting is compatible with your immobilizer. For those with 2001 models, please note that VAG was making a transition with the immobilizer type during the model year, from immobilizer 2 to the more advanced immobilizer 3. So double-check your type of immobilizer equipped before obtaining a replacement. For those with model year 2001.5 and newer, your car comes with immobilizer 3. In any case, you can play it safe by getting a replacement key remote that has the same part # as the ones that originally came with your car
Matching your key to the immobilizer
As mentioned, you must do this with a VAG-COM or ask your dealer to do it for a fee. Keep in mind that anytime a new key is matched to your car’s immobilizer, all other existing key(s) must be re-matched to the immobilizer as well, or else your existing keys would no longer be able to “communicate” with your car’s immobilizer. So make sure to have all the keys of your car with you when doing this procedure.
If you have a 4-digit secret key code (SKC) for your car, then you're ready for this procedure using a VAG-COM. Your SKC can be found on a black plastic tag that was given to you when taking delivery of your car. On one side of the tag, there is a sticker with a scratch panel. Your SKC is underneath that scratch panel. So scratch off the panel in order to reveal your SKC.
See the VAG-COM instructions for key matching using a 4-digit SKC here:
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c....html
If you were not given a SKC when taking delivery of your car (as in some 2002 and all ‘03+ models) or unable to retrieve the correct 4-digit SKC, then you’ll need to request the workshop code and the importer # from your dealer, along with your car’s 7-digit SKC, before proceeding with a VAG-COM. These three pieces of info can be obtained from your dealer only if you can provide them with your car’s 14-digit immobilizer ID #, your VIN, and proof of ownership. Also make note of the date on which your 7-digit SKC was generated by the dealer, as it is required for the SKC to be valid for this procedure.
I am sorry if this is too technichal. This is the best I can do for this issue. 1998 and 1999 first half, can do without the VAG-COM. Later models please refer to the above.
For those people that want to get technical, satisfaction and money saved is the reward.
All of us who prefer maintenance free vehicles, it's called TOYOTA!
This is generally true with cars which are built on a platform following form over function.
I drove a Mini and the ride quality is sub par. It's a small little car with a choppy and small interior and although it corners well, it is very light, crude and a terribly thin chassis
which makes the feel of the car insecure and crappy.
These are toy cars, prototypes which were built to boost the brand image and not something which would compare with a toyota corolla or an accord or say a mercedes c class.
But what I find interesting is that you are concerned about it now, AFTER the test drive and after you bought it. Test drive in my mind means something supposed to bring this driving experience to light and make you avoid buying such a car because of ...ride quality.
I own a 2001 GLX turbo new beetle and it has begun to have the same brake problems you described in your e-mail. Did you find a solution? I've spent $1,200, so far and got new brake pads rotors and oh, yes the same problem. I've discussed this problem with experts with lots of guesses but no sure answers.
My German friend says buy a new car because the car cannot be fixed with the kind of technicians available in the USA. In SF there aren't many good choices for service.
John
I have finally sold the car and I will tell you, I am relieved. This is one of the worst cars I ever had. Everyone I knew with a VW had problems on top of problems, but this one tops it all. I had a BMW, Honda, Buick and a Dodge. It is the last german brand I will ever buy. I will avoid BMW, Mercedes, Audi, Porsche and Mini due to VW. I am absolutely FREEE. No more trouble no more hassle no more dirty hands...
Ladies and gentlemen, seriously, stay away from VW.
Any suggestions on what it might be?
Thanks,
Sharon C.
Early on Thursday morning, I contacted the manager of the gas station. We spoke about the claim that Volkswagen was making and she said that all of their fuel was tested before it went into tank and that there was no way that there could be unleaded gas in the diesel tank. She also indicated that the nozzles on the tanker truck were different for diesel and unleaded and that the claim Volkswagen was making was impossible. I then requested a receipt from the Phillips headquarters and it was immediately faxed to me. It clearly indicated that I had pumped diesel gas. That afternoon, I spoke with the service coordinator at the dealer and he indicated that they had flushed the fuel system and the car was fixed and ran fine. The gentleman asked if I had contacted the service station in which I indicated that I had and that I had proof that I pumped diesel. He said that it really didn’t matter, because that was what the problem was and therefore I had to pay for the repair. He then transferred me to his manager. He indicated that that was the problem and there was nothing that they could do to help me. That evening I went to the dealer to pick-up the car. I spoke again with the service advisor and he indicated that I should be careful where I buy my gas. I then showed him the receipt that I got from the service station and he again told me that there was nothing that Volkswagen could do and that I would have to take it up with the gas station. At that point, in my frustration, I went ahead and wrote them a check. When I got into the vehicle, the air conditioning was on full blast, the radio was on full blast and the treble and bass controls had been reset. After I pulled out of the lot, I noticed that the car has less than 1/8 tank. I live about ½ mile away from the dealer, but the only gas station in the vicinity that carries diesel is the same service station where Volkswagen says that I bought the “bad” gas. Therefore, I opted to just go to the home and hopefully, I could make it to a gas station by my work the next day.
On Friday morning, I attempted to start the car and it would not start. I was on the phone once again with Roadside Assistance. I also called and spoke with a different service advisor at the dealer and indicated that the car was being towed there again. They indicated that they would take it in and see what was wrong with it. Several minutes after ending the call, I received another call from the original service advisor indicating that they would look at the car and try and figure out what was wrong with it and that they would not be cashing the check that I wrote to them the day before. Although I was happy that they weren’t going to charge me, the fact remained that there was still something wrong with “new” car. By the way, the gas problem was never mentioned again
Later that afternoon, I received a call from the service advisor and he indicated that they had done yet another “thorough” check of the car and that the security system cluster was “shot” and that they needed to order parts and replace the entire cluster. This could take anywhere from 2 days to 6 weeks or more. They indicated that they would cover a rental car until that time. At this point, I was furious. A short time later, my parents stopped by the dealer and spoke with the service manager and the owner’s son. They made an attempt to let my parents know what the problem was “now”. They said that they had to wait for parts from Germany and that as far as the warranty was concerned, they were obligated to give me a rental car and that was all. They also gave my parents a 1-800 # and told them that maybe Volkswagen credit could defer a payment or two since I couldn’t drive the $575/month car.
I proceeded to call Volkswagen Credit and he indicated they will only defer payments under certain circumstances, but this type of circumstance did not qualify as that. He then directed me to another number for Volkswagen of America. He indicated that they were the ones that held warranties on behalf of Volkswagen and that maybe they could help me out on payment or two.
I then called and spoke with a consumer advocate on behalf of Volkswagen of America. I proceeded to explain the entire situation. She indicated that she had never heard of a Volkswagen dealer treating a customer that way and that she was very sorry on behalf of Volkswagen. I explained that I was just numb with frustration and I needed someone to help me. She apologized profusely and asked what I would like for them to do on my behalf. Wow, now maybe we’re getting somewhere with customer service I indicated that the only thing I wanted was to get my $2000 down payment back, get out of the vehicle and be done with it. She indicated that she would see what she could do to make this happen. I also indicated to her that I was considering filing a complaint with the BBB and the Attorney General if something wasn’t done to resolve the issue.
Basically, in a nutshell, I feel that I am being taken advantage of, belittled, and just overall treated unfairly in this whole situation. All that I want is my down payment back and to get out of this mess.
Like I said, this may or may not help you. I'm sure there's some major differences between GM and VW (or at least I hope there are!). I'd hope that with only 14,000 miles you wouldn't already need a new fuel pump. I just thought I'd share in case! Good luck!
You probably have a glow plug relay that keeps the glow plugs on for very short time, which may not be enough for cold starts in cold weather.
I have a Mercedes 300SD and I usually cycle the glow plugs twice for a cold start and this works just fine. There are glow plug relays that keep the glow plugs on longer, even after the engine has started. You may need to change your relay if you live in cold country.
What ambient temps are you operating at in the morning? Is the car outdoors?
$575.00 per month for a Beetle?? :surprise:
2. Arm rest broken, and door pulls peeling.
3. Dash board lights by the heater controls not working.
4. Radio/cd player works sometimes.
5. Pass. door pops loudly when you open and close the door.
Does anybody have a definate answer why the EPC light lights up. It sounds like the dealers just keep replacing things until it goes away. Can anyone send me to a good repair shop or dealership in the Chicagoland area? I do not want to spend a fortune on this car-I'll trade it in on an American(union) :lemon: built car, maybe the quality will be better.
I'll miss the turbo spooling up and the power -but I do not want a car that will bleed my bank account dry.
Can anyone give me any information on the 2005 Turbo gas engine. I am thinking about buying one and is there any thing I should look out for. Any good things or bad things would be helpful. Is it a good beetle to buy, thanks Shawn.
I don't know what kind of driving you do, but if you do drive city driving, you are in for a shock. I met anotther VW convertible tubo driver and she said she does mostly highway driving and is at best getting only 20 mpg'
Good luck.
Good luck