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but i understand the fact is that if I get a *new* keyfob, then the two misplaced/lost ones would no longer function, at least not the "remote" part - they would have first to be reprogrammed at $100 each.
thanks for the headsup re Radio code...
- think of it as a feature not a bug. some people pay extra to have the vehicle beep beep beep when in reverse.
- emergency brake could be misadjusted. if you leave the e-brake on purposely/a-little, does that eliminate the brake squeak.
- a possible workaround is to back the car into the garage for its overnight rest. a possible downside to that is stinky/dangerous fumes in the garage each morning on egress.
none of my 5 VW TDIs had/has exhibited this problem, including 06 new beetle.
As a reminder... the oil light is NOT an indicator of how MUCH oil is in your engine. Instead, it is telling how much oil PRESSURE is being applied to the bearings. If ther pressure is too low, the lamp comes on. Extremely low pressure will flash the light.
Make no mistake... the oil light being on means IMMENINENT DANGER for your engine. A flashing light is even MORE severe. Never never NEVER drive with oil light on or you may be looking for a new engine soon.
One minuite of flashing may the the equivalant of about 50,000 miles of instant engine wear. (the engine is self-destructing with metal-to-metal contact on the bearings and cams)
I just had the mechanic put a brand new carburetor in my 73 Beetle and it is hesitating when I try to accelerate in all gears. This doesn't happen consistently but for sure to happen more often and intensely when the engine is cold. The mechanic sees condensation (water) in the carb and thinks that's the problem. He's already adjusted timing, choke, etc. Does this sound right? Should a brand new carb have this problem? The acceleration is also very flat in 3rd gear.
Elisa
What you describe sure sounds like it is leaning out too much under accelleration. A too-lean mixture can also lead to melted pistons due to heat buildup. (LEAN = HOT engine)
One way or another, the main jets need to be set a tad richer for the midrange/accelleration circuits.
The fact that you encounter this with a cold engine might be considerd "normal". Carberated engines rarely run well when cold. A properly-tuned carberator can minimize this flat-spot.
The advent of fuel-injected engines has made many of us forget how poorly carberated engines used to run while cold.
The condensation in the venturi is a well-known phenomena. Those water-droplets are from the AIR (not your fuel). It is often referred to as carberator-icing. Under certain atmospheric conditions, the watervapor in the air will fall out of suspension and condense inside carb. Car engines are susceptible to icing. It has to do with the drop in temperature caused by the faster flow of air in the venturi of the carburetor, combined with amount of moisture in the air. Many carberated engines had a special intake-tube that pre-heated the intake air by drawing it past the exhaust manifold. This helped reduce carberator-icing phenomena.
It sure sounds to me as if your "mechanic" may not be well-versed in carberated engines. Virtually all of your complaints can be "tuned out" by properly adjusting the carberator settings.
Again, i warn you -- Leaving your carberator adjusted so lean may burn up your engine. (especially since it is air-cooled) All good engine-tuners will start on the RICH side of the tuning-band and sneak-up to a leaner setting.... This is to minimize the possiblity of melting an enigne while getting it tuned. A proper carb. setup may take several days (or weeks) of "tune-n-test".
"Fuel: According to Rob Boardman, the hesitation problem is almost certainly a lean-burn thing. VWs like a fractionally rich mix -- they don't like lean burn conditions. A larger main jet in the carburetor will provide a richer mix and may help the problem. Also, Rob advises the use of a brand-name fuel with at least 91 octane (more aromatics and less methyl tertiary-butyl ether - MTBE - to achieve the higher octane. Only the 1200cc engines and the newest low-compression factory (Mex/Brazilian) engines are happy on 87 octane gasoline. Carburetor: Spitting/sputtering/cracking is an indication of the fuel/air mixture being too lean. The engine speed (RPM) at which the problem occurs tells which jet needs to be changed. Test the engine's performance through the range of 1000-4000 RPM, paying attention to steady throttle position through this range.
• If the engine runs good at 3000-4000 rpm but stumbles elsewhere, the correct main jet is being used, and the problem lies somewhere else. If the hesitation problem occurs at higher rpm (2500-4000), a larger main jet needs to be installed. If the main jet doesn't solve it, try the accelerator pump (see below).
• If the stumbling occurs at 2000 RPMs and lower, a larger idle jet may need to be installed to enrichen the mixture. (Don't go much beyond 65, however.)
• If you have an 009 centrifugal-advance distributor, a larger main jet may sometimes help to compensate for the flat spot inherent with this distributor. The standard jet is 127.5 (in a 34PICT/3 carburetor); try a 130 or even larger.
What are these "jets" that you are talking about, are they part of the carb or part of the engine? You mentioned "main jets", The article above talks about "idle jets" and "larger jets". Since I experience the hesitation when I first accelerate, am I correct that the article suggests my "larger idle jet" is the issue? I really appreciate your help with this. Oh yeah, and am I interpreting the meaning of "flat" correctly? I am thinking that refers to no acceleration while I have the pedal to the floor in the third gear.
The carberator contains small orfices thru which fuel is metered. These are precisely-sized holes usually drilled in brass. These are called "jets" which are a critical part of the tuning process of any carberator.
I do not have the space here to teach you every nuance in the art of carberator operation...but here is a synopsys
The role of a carberator is to precisely mix automized fuel droplets with air as the engine sucks the air thru it. All carberators have a venturi. This is an area where the airflow is forced to flow thru a narrowed opening. The laws of physics says that faster-flowing air has less pressure. This lower pressure sucks fuel thru one or more jets into the airstream. The fuel is also atomized into droplets at the same time.
Most carberators have at least 3 "circuits". Each circuit may have its own jet.
1)Idle.
2)mid throttle.
3)full throttle.
Each of these circuits are "tunable" usually by adjusting the size of the jets thru which the fuel is meterd. There is also some amount of overlap between these circuits so changing one jet can affect the other settings. Some jets are adjusted with a screw... other jets are "fixed" and must be replaced with larger/smaller jets to make an adjustment.
Also, there is usually an accelleration pump. When the gaspedal is pushed down, a small amount of fuel is squirted into the carberator to assist in accelleration. (reduce sudden lean condition because air changes speed easier than liquid gasoline during changes in throttle openeing) Yes - this is often called a "flat spot" during accelleratin.
The above is just a simple explanation... Some carberators may have emulsion-tubes, power jets, slide valves, Constant-vacuum, constant-venturi, float-level settings, idle-bypass circuit, dashpot adjustments, multiple 'barrels', air jets, tickler valves, needle valves... the list goes on.
(Yes... I have been working on carberators since I was about 8 years old)
Thank you, that helps a lot in conceptualizing what is happening. On Friday, I told my mechanic to go ahead and find the tube for intake air issue and then he said, "you mean the air filter?" Now what is he talking about it? What does the air filter have to do with pre-warming the air to prevent condensation? And for clarification, I should use the term "flat spot in 3rd gear" when I tell the mechanic that I have very little umph/accerlation in that gear? Thanks again!
Note that heating the intake air was often used to improve running in cold weather. It is most often considerd BAD for power to heat the intake air. (because colder air is more dense... thus has more oxygen in it)
Most intake-air heating systems only operate for a short time... then thermostaticly close off the heated air to allow cold air into the engine for most of the time.
Yes - "flat spot in 3rd gear" would tell most mechanics that it is lacking accelleration in 3rd gear.
Also, be aware that all carberator tuning must be done with plumbing and air filters installed.... the tuning will change each time somthing else changes. Carberators are VERY sensitive to any changes in the intake-air plumbing because they operate based on pressure-differental.
I can't thank you enough for the education. Yes, that is exactly what my mechanic was talking about. Heating the air prior and then it automatically shuts off. I have to assume he knows to readjust carb after installing this intake air heating system. I drive myself crazy enough by doubting people's abilities all the time. Thanks, again.
Check engine light goes on and off Po422, and P1582,p0102,p0112. No help from dealers they want to scan and repair only themselves.
Thanks!
Omari
parked until further notice,
amanda
Good luck,
amanda
Sounds like 17'' wheel is more popular than 16''. Is 16'' wheel not good for driving or maintenance and repair?
Thanks
of visits to fix it. I recall the problem was that a water-seal thing was misplaced inside the drivers door - or inside the firewall.
The repairs on this vehicle through the past 7 years have been over the top!
First of all, anyone else have the HORRIBLE problem with OIL USAGE? I keep a case of oil in my garage. There is documented history of this 2001 engine manufactured in MEXICO, has a "ring" problem. Oil usage begins the very moment you drive the car off the lot. It's very sad that VW knew all along this 2.0 engine was an oil user, but never released this information to the public till years later. Not a good selling tool telling a potential buyer you'll have an oil usage problem. The common words used in the service dept are WELL... THAT USAGE IS JUST NORMAL???? Yeah, RIGHT!!!
I've had every sensor problem imaginable. The dashboard warning lights go off like a Xmas Tree. Down to VW to hook up to the OBD computer. Get the fault code and have to replace very expensive sensors of every kind over the years.
EPC light problems.... Recall on the Brake light Switch on all these Beetles. The car will not go into gear and must be towed in. That was not a fun experience.
Air conditioner problems which they can't seem to pinpoint, but want 600.00 to replace a valve and won't guarantee that will solve the problem, so I've paid for numerous recharging of the system. Obviously a leak somewhere.
Leakage of coolant.... flange replacement. (hundreds for that) 2 months later... had to replace the water pump and thermostat.
The side Mirror adjustment knob snaps off in my hand. Cheap plastic!!! The entire switch needed to be replaced. That cost hundreds.
Rock Shield underneath the vehicle has been replaced twice. 100.00 each time. It's cheap plastic without enough attachment areas to keep it secure. Finally I removed it all together and don't use it.
I have been through 3 sets of tires because of unusual wear? (I only have 88,000 miles on the car) I have the vehicle aligned over and over again.
I've been through 3 batteries. Last time I went to Sears instead of VW because it was half the price for a diehard battery and they give you a much better warranty.
I have replaced the drivers side headlight bulb 5 times. After the 3rd visit to VW with them charging 80.00 with labor. I found a friend to help me. The bulb was only 5.00, so I now can replace it myself.
The brakes front and rear have been replace twice, and I am an easy driver, not hard on the brakes at all. 600.00 for front and rear brakes at VW (outrageous)
A rip started to form in the seam of the upper part of my leather drivers side seat. UNREAL. I have it repaired at an auto upholstery place. When they remove the seat I'm told the "side" airbag inserted in the seat along with body pressure while driving created the rip in the seam. Once the seat is repaired, The airbag light on the dash will not go out. Hence, always disconnect the battery before removing the seat. I had to pay 50.00 at VW for them to put it on the computer and remove the fault code causing the airbag light to remain lit on the dashboard.
Now let me get to my most current problem. One is the turn signal will not stop making the clicking sound even when it's in the off position. CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK I am being tortured with the noise. In in order to fix, they have to replace the entire turn signal arm on the steering wheel....NICE!!!
For the past few months when applying the brakes and rolling up to a stop I've heard this terrible creeking noise and now a grinding sound in the passenger side rear wheel area of the car. It's continued to increase the past few weeks.
I left the car at VW three mornings ago at 7:30 AM, at 3:30 in the afternoon I call them to get an update. They tell me they can't find anything wrong? HELLO?? The whole day has gone by.
I drive back to VW in my Borrowed car!!!!! Get in my Beetle with the technician. It doesn't take long and YEP, there's that horrible sound coming from the rear end passenger side of the vehicle. I mean what's up with that? They couldn't recreate the same condition and hear that noise. UNBELIEVABLE.
Next morning I get a call and they tell me it's the rear bushings.
These two rubber bushings cost 40.00 That's about 20.00 each. The bad news, they want 750.00 for the labor to replace the rear bushings. Stating it's a 6 hour job? Hello? I'm not a mechanic but anyone else in this forum know anything about this procedure?
It does not stop there. Now the service rep tells me the timing belt is making noise and that should be replaced. Another 600.00 for the timing belt stating it's a 5 hour job. The timing belt itself cost is approx 34.00.
Plus an oil change was requested by me when I dropped the car off.
Now we are at approx 1700.00 for repairs? This has knocked the wind out of me. :sick:
I can't afford a new car. I don't want car payments. I was so happy to have paid off this VW in 2 years and it breaks my heart I have one problem after another that drains my pocket book.
This 2001 Beetle has done nothing but choke me to death with maintenance and repair bills over the years. VW prices at the dealership are outrageous but I worry if taking my car to private repair shop sometimes it just makes things worse. Always being told that VW original parts are the way to go.
When issues arise I am always stuck taking it to my local VW dealer where I bought it brand new. They know me by name because I am there every other month with some kind of issue.
It's heartbreaking.
Can any one else tell me about the history with their Beetle? What is a fair price to have the rear bushings replaced and the timing belt? Do these particular jobs really take 5 to 6 hours of labor to complete or am I being once again being REAMED by the VW dealership? They have had my car for 3 days now and I may not even have it back by the close of business today?
Thanks to all who got this far in reading my post.
Any answers or feedback would be appreciated.
It sounds as if you have had a mix of bad luck, and poor dealership support. Most of the costs you mention are higher than what I would consider reasonable.
I can tell you that a 2001 with 88K miles is PAST DUE for a timingbelt. You should have planned for (set aside $$) for this to be done at 80K miles. If your TB breaks, the engine will likely be damaged beyond repair.
You also need to realize that ANY vehicle with 88K miles will need some occasional maintance. It has given you many years of service.
I cant answer your question about rear-bushing cost to replace. Perhaps you may wish to call around for some other shops to perform the maintaince tasks so you can get a better feel for the cost.
You may also want to weigh the cost of maintenance against getting another vehicle. Many folks can answer this question by weiging the cost to maintain against the cost of payments for another car. Another way to help ease the maintaince costs is to set aside some $$ every payday specifically earmarked for car repairs as they arise.
If you had used the SEARCH funcion, you would have quickly discovered the reason and the fix for your " temp light comes on and stays on till the car has warmed up" problem.
REASON:
The antifreeze is a tad low in the resevour and when the engine is cold, the antifreeze contracts (shrinks) and lighs up the "low" sensor. As the engine warms up, the antifreeze expands (gets bigger) and the level rises in the resevour. This satisfies the level sensor and the "low" indicator goes out.
FIX:
Add less than 1/2 cup of DISTILLED water to resivour. If you need to add more than 1/2 cup of liquid, you MUST use the specified G12 antifreeze mixture.
NOTE: If the level continues to get low over the course of several weeks, you have a LEAK than should be isolated and corrected.
I've wanted a Tier2 Bin5 diesel for at least 4 years now preferrably w/ Hybrid. But I've worried about their reliability. Honda doesn't use Urea in their new proposed Diesel. ...but they're putting it in an Accord, and I don't want a sedan.
VW Tiguan is ideal EXCEPT for my concern about reliability...and I'm new to diesel except for the bobcat I sometimes drive.
I want your feedback on VW reliability in general.
Due to several constraints, I am unable to drive those 300 miles every time I need to have the oil changed or have the vehicle's various fluids replaced or refilled. Same goes for lubrication.
Is there any manual that I can get to give to my local mechanic(s) for him to perform the above mentioned tasks?
Thanks,
DonaldS
The Bentley manuals are available in both printed and CD form. My wife (bless her heart) gave me a bentley manual as a gift several years ago.
The CD versions of the Bentley manuals have the bonus of receiving upgrades thru the internet so you always have the latest procedures and information.
Regards,
DonaldS
I wired bothe of these into my 2001 Beetle and then had the Catalytic installed...
When the Check Engine Light failed to turn-off... I then went to Auto Zone and hooked their scanner into my cars computer.... When I gave the codes to the AutoZone Parts Guy, he ran the info on his computer system which came up saying the Oxygen Sensors are wired wrong... He then told me. My mystake was matching the wires "Color to Color", and that if I went online, I could download the proper Diagram.... So far, I've sent this message to Bosch, and got no reply (yet)
Anyone out there know the actual wiring by color process...??? (1 Black, 1 Gray and 2 white; both from the sensors and the car itself)
Please advise, and thank you in advance!!
(basically - Analog and Digital)
The "digital" type is less accurate because it only outputs a YES/NO based on what it is sensing.
The "analog" type outputs a constantly-changing output that is very accurate at detecting slight changes in the oxygen-content of the exhust gasses.
THESE ARE NOT INTERCHANGABLE!
I assume you realize that 2 of the wires are just 12V to the heater within the O2 sensor. The other 2 wires are for the sensing.
Additionaly, all O2 sensors need to be able to "breathe" ambient air in order to detect the zone-difference between atmosphere and exhaust gasses. NEVER EVER use tape to seal up the breathing-tube for an O2 sensor. (O2 sensors are actually a difference sensor using atmosphere as the reference)
I suggest you review the codes your car is throwing and determine WHICH of the O2 sensors are the problem. It is very unlikely that BOTH of them went bad at the same time.
I know that oil changing isn't rocket science but I still want to establish a relationship with a local dealer that provides reliable, professional, friendly service.
My lease expires in June 2008, My inspection is May 5, 2008. This is my first and (last leased car). It is a 2005-VW convertible with 24k. What does the inspection look for. ZWhat do I have to have ready. I read the brief inspection inform from Vw but what to I need to expect from them. Should I take pics of the car before and after inspection. Thx you