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Also interested in advise to get a better deal. I also live in Miami. Thanks.
The quote for an ex was 24000
exl was 25800
exl-res 27200
Did not get any quotes for Tourings
My two cents: My '05 Touring rides stiffer than my dad's '06 EX-L. PAX tires cost more to replace than than regular tires. PAX costs an extra $600 on the '08s.
What would I do if I was buying a Touring now? I'd get one equipped with PAX.
Thank you
As I stated in my earlier post. I got a great deal in Miami from Maroone Honda of Miami on the Palmetto at 57th. I contacted every Honda dealer in South Florida and no one came close to Maroone's price, and the service and attention I received from the Director of eCommerce was outstanding.
Here's some lessons I learned during my recent Odyssey acquisition:
1. When following donkeypunch1's method don't ask for mixed quotes. In my first emails I was asking for purchase price, lease terms, residuals, money factors. The request was confusing and didn't get me the results I wanted. It is OK to ask for multiple quotes, but don't ask for multiple quotes with multiple terms. Keep the first request simple, such as a purchase price or a lease payment. There will be subsequent communication where you can get the particulars, and then use the particulars to verify whether it is a real quote, or something just to get you in the door.
2. Although donkeypunch1's advice is solid, you need to talk to the dealers to get information. Email alone just won't cut it. If I had not talked to the eCommerce people at Maroone Honda I never would have known that Honda had offered a special lease deal in December 2006, and that they might do it again. Once they told me that I confirmed it by searching the Edmunds forums (following Reagan's old Russian proverb: Trust but Verify), but it would not have occurred to me to look for that on my own. By waiting just a few days until Honda introduced their special lease program for the 2008 Odyssey I saved over $30 per month on the lease payment.
3. Whatever deal you strike with the dealer get it in writing down to the last penny before you go to the dealership, and then print it out and bring it to the dealership with you and compare it line-by-line to what you are going to sign. Take as much time as you need to go over it line-by-line and figure-by-figure. If it is not exactly as agreed to, don't sign.
4. Don't feel foolish asking questions and expecting replies. The only stupid questions are the ones you don't ask. If a dealer gets impatient with all your questions, that's probably a dealer you don't want to deal with.
After you get your quotes, take the lowest and go back to the others that produced higher numbers to see if they'll match/beat. When you get down to the final few dealers, now's the time to make a few calls, toss out a lower number, see if they will bite, etc. I do contend that if you start calling back the clowns that ask you to call for an appointment without providing any quotation, your going to be wasting your time. I also can't stress enough that whatever is discussed/committed to, that you get them to send it to you in writing, print and bring it with you. Error on the side of conservation and document every detail.
I personally haven't leased a vehicle, but would be really surprised if honda's "advertised" specials are the best price you can get. Just talking about 'lopping' $40 off or whatever per month usually isn't going to cut it, unless you negotiate a purchase price and then work back into the monthly payment/terms.
Regarding phone contact, all I'm suggesting is that they don't need your phone number and you don't need to start pounding the phones out of the box. Get some quotes, work them online then make a few calls for final details and "best and final" offers. But then get it in writing.
BTW, I have zero ties with capital one or costco. I like someone's suggestion about getting a check from a credit union to purchase the vehicle and then tell the dealer you have 5.25 from the credit union. You typically won't find money for 5.25 from anyone online, but a credit union is very possible. The bottom line is that you must get preapproved and have a check with a rate you can live with if the dealer doesnt match or better. I agree that your best chances of getting below 5.25 is credit union route.
PAX tires cost twice as much to replace ($1200), service locations are limited (mostly at Honda dealers), and you usually have to wait for the dealer to order them (3-7 days). Many PAX owners complain of shorter tread wear--I only got 35k miles on mine and I'm religious about tire rotations and pressure checks. On the bright side, you won't have to stop in the ghetto to change a tire. Another positive note--the sidewalls on these things are almost indestructible--never got curb rash because of the thick ring that protrudes from the sidewall.
I bought my 06 Touring in the southwest--bad idea. No dealers for hundreds of miles when we traveled. Thankfully, we never had a tire failure out in the desert.
I bought my 07 Touring in VA. Now that I drive entirely on the east coast in urban areas, the PAX system makes sense--more dealers and more alternative modes of travel if I need to leave the van.
I'm fully in agreement with you that once you leave the test drive phase and have started the acquisition phase you don't want to go anywhere near a dealership until you have a finalized deal in writing. My phone contact with dealers usually occurred because I did not get a response to my request for quote. Once I started making calls I found it easier to get information, especially about leases, than I did via email. For some reason, maybe it is just human nature, sales people were more willing to give me information while we were on the phone than they were via email. For example, a couple of dealers I called because they did not respond to my request for quote gave me a lease quote while we were on the phone. I know that the way they do that is through a computer system, so while we're on the phone I ask about things that are being displayed right in front of them such as the capitalized cost, the money factor, the residual, and the holdback. Every one of the dealers I talked to on the phone gave me that information without hesitation, while some dealers I was communicating with via email would not give that information even after numerous requests. Once I had the information it was quite easy to tell the dealer that the numbers sounded good, or not - and can you improve them - and please send me the quote via email.
While it might seem like a good idea when negotiating a lease to first negotiate the sales price (capitalized cost), the problem with that is that it is only half of the equation. The lowest capitalized cost may not always get you the lowest lease payment because dealers can play with the money factor (basically the interest rate). A couple of dealers told me that on a normal lease Honda does not require dealers to offer the best money factor. The dealer can mark it up over and above what AHFC is offering. However, they also told me that on a lease special Honda does require the dealer to offer the special's money factor and no higher. I hope that is true.
As for the Honda lease special, I agree that the X dollars per month on a particular vehicle with Y dollars due at inception that is advertised may not be best deal available. However, those lease specials are not just for the advertised model. They apply across the board to all the Odyssey models. So, a lease you negotiate on a different model (e.g. Touring) gets the same money factor as the advertised special (e.g. LX). Again, that's something I didn't know that I learned by talking to the dealers.
As for confusing the numbers, it is not only consumers who can get confused. This is from an email I received from a Palm Beach county dealer (this is verbatim - the all-capitals format was in the original):
THE DOWN PAYMENTS REPRESENT FIRST PAYMENT, TAGS, AND BANK FEES. IN REGARD TO ALL THE OTHER FACTORS, I DON'T HAVE THAT INFORMATION, OR REALLY EVEN UNDERSTAND THOSE THINGS, ALL I KNOW IS THAT FOR EVERY THOUSAND, GIVE OR TAKE THE PAYMENTS GO UP OR DOWN APPROXIMATELY $28.oo . MY SPECIALITY IS PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE OF THE VEHICLES THAT I SELL. IF I PROVIDE YOU WITH THE BEST PRICE, AND YOU ARE INTERESTED. PLEASE COME ON IN, AND SEE THE VEHICLE THAT WE HAVE IN STOCK. ALL THOSE MONEY FACTORS, RESIDUALS, AND EVERY OTHER QUESTIONS CAN BE ANSWERED BY MY MANAGER, WHO GIVES US LEASE PRICE QUOTES, AND HE WILL BE HAPPY TO PERSONALLY ANSWER ALL YOUR QUESTIONS.
When you are negotiating a lease what you want from the dealer is the Dealer Disclosure form. It is the printout of the AHFC lease system. If they don't offer it, ask for it - many dealers will not send it because it contains information they don't want you to know. For whatever reason, multiple dealers did sent it to me. It gives detailed information in these categories:
Money Due at Inception
Payment Information
Profit
Rate Information
Residual Information
Capitalized Cost Breakdown
Tax Breakdown
Mileage Information
Trade Information
Maximum Advance Information
Miscellaneous Information
Fee Breakdown
With that information, if you can get it, you should be fully armed to negotiate.
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thanks.
The best base price was $26,453.00
The OTD pricing varied from ~29100 to 30200 (the prices included base, destination, tax, title, and documentation). So I asked the slightly higher prices (30200) if that was his best price (I told him he was over $1000 from other offers).
His response "The $2500.00 is to the dealer and not the consumer, however I am passing $1000.00 on to you."... which suggests the price should be more like 28700.
A couple dealers flat out told me the incentive was for DEALERS (yes they put it all caps for me
1. Is it typical, that even asking for an OTD price, they don't mention that mud flaps and wheel locks (the minimum Northwest dealer accessories) are not included?
2. One dealer stated there were only about 30 EXL's left in WA, which he considered a 10-day supply. Should I pursue an OTD price more in line with $28700?
Call the guy and tell him you understand this to be a $1500 option, not a $2k option. Tell him you'd be willing to pay $1500 on top of the $25,650 and that you'll head in tonight to buy the thing if he can get there. (if he has your color...check that as well). At the 2K he wants, he's making $500+ on the system alone. You might not have much negotiating power if he's only got 1 or 2 left on the lot. If he has your color, the most I'd go is $27,300 if he has your color (to just be done with it)
Lots of debate on whether or not the $1500 is worth it. $1500 is different things to different people. Personally, If I'm buying a living room on wheels and have kids, I'd bite the bullet and go for the integrated system. They can watch movies or play video games and you can listen to music without hearing it. You can also control the system to a certain extent up-front so that your wife isn't climbing back there to deal with it. I know...you can buy a 1080P 42" for less than $1500 these days. However, you can't integrate it cleanly into your vehicle. Conversely, I can totally appreciate the folks that draw a line and go with a much less expensive non-integrated system. That also cuts down on kids watching the stupid thing everytime they get in the car--which can be a good thing.
One thing to note, I test drove an 07 yesterday and was surprised to find that the brakes were way off in that they were vibrating and loud. Mentioned it to the salesman who said he would send it to the service dept to be adjusted. Also find the interior somewhat 'plasticy' compared to my father-in-laws 2002. Was peeved that the 07 does not have aux input for ipod, which is std on the 08s. Nevertheless, good value for money, especially at $29.5K.
We live in Virginia and purchased a 2007 Odyssey EX-L, Nighthawk Black with Ivory Leather.
Here was our deal from Herson's Honda in Rockville, MD
MSRP: $31095
Freight:$ 595
Wheel locks: $101.00
Paint Matched Moldings: $399.00
Processing Fee: $100.00
Total List price: $32190
Discount: $6996.00
Purchased for $25294 ($24599 + $595 (freight) + $100 (processing)
With 3% VA Sales Tax and Tag Transfers ($51), TOTAL OTD $26103.
Car had a build date of 6/07 and 23 miles on the odo, some of which were ours.
Herson's was great to work with. I asked for this deal over the phone on Monday. The internet salesperson asked the GM to approve it which he did, she called me back and sent me an email confirming on Monday,and held the vehicle for me until today (Wed.). We went in this morning, drove the car by ourselves, went over it with a fine tooth comb. They had two employees work on detailing it perfectly (there were a few smudges on the outside).
They gave me a list of accessories I could add, which we declined to do. The finance guy was nice, tried to get us to buy the extended warranty which we declined, but was not particularly high pressure.
I'm doing my own financing through my credit union so that wasn't an issue. We did have them evaluate our trade but they could not come close to our CarMax appraisal. I'm not surprised since CarMax gave us over $1000 over Blue Book for some reason. There is a CarMax location right down the street from them (a half a mile away) so after we were done at Herson's we just went there and sold it to CarMax.
Could we have done better if I had waited to the very last day at the month? Possibly, but I doubt it. I couldn't get any dealer to match Herson's price the last few days, and we were quite particular about what we wanted (Nighthawk Black). I had been tracking inventories and there were very, very few black Ody's still around.
Our deal ended up being $1000 under invoice, + the $2500 rebate. How can you go wrong on such a high quality vehicle?
I would highly recommend Herson's if you are in the Metro DC area. Good luck to everyone.
I got my EX yesterday for 23,632 :shades: I don't think I could have gotten it too much lower. I did all the negotiating through e-mail, closed on the price and went in to the dealer just twice. Once to double check the interior color ( olive- which is not really olive) and once to pay and pick it up.
Is $23,632 includes destination charge? how about other charges like doc. fee etc...
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But if it is, that puts the 2008 at about $4,300 more than the 2007 for the same model.
$28,500 purchase price
$595 destination
$399 processing
$29,494 OTD because we do not have sales tax since we are registering in Oregon
This is also including a value package that includes mud guards, wheel locks, door guards, pin stripe, and wheel well guards ($380 dealer price value)
Probably headed to carmax tomorrow to secure a written offer.
What's out there finance wise? All I see is capital one for 6.39%
Any advice????????
Thanks..
What do you think?
X
Can't see prices getting much, if any, better and the available selection is shrinking. By the end of December (that's only a month away), there'll not likely be much of anything left in the way of '07s most places.
Thanks,
GKC
Best quote I received is 32.6K from a dealer about 100 miles away.
I sent out sixteen requests and received 8. About 1/3 never responded, another few never looked at my request, just sent the standard canned reply. Of the eight I received, I'm negotiating with 3.................plan to do something with the finance and trade-in today. The nearest Carmax is 100 miles..............so at this point, I plan to visit the lowest 2 dealers in town to have them evaluate my trade-in (03 MDX Touring)...........if I get low-balled, I walk to the next on the list.............if they are all fairly low, then I have to bite the bullet and drive to Carmax.
Rich