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Comments
Good luck,
JCS
Alternatives:
1. Take it to Autozone and have them read the diagnostic code. They will do it at no charge and only takes a minute.
2. Take it to another dealer.
Best of luck,
JCS
Here're some store locator links:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=ST001&UserAction=displayStoreLo- cator
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/FindAStore.do
http://advanceauto.know-where.com/advance-auto-parts/
BTW - Where are you located?
JCS
I get a extremely hard shudder at 37-40 mph and it shakes the entire car. Two dealers had different ideas... balance tires, oil seal, road force balance, lower front ball joints, but nothing stops it from happening. Not all the time, but often enough to require attention.
Now I'm going to Conrads to have the tiers rotated and re-balanced.
bw3
For example, I noticed my Ford Taurus (with only 15,xxx miles) was pulling to the right and exhibited vibration/shudder around 70 mph. I took it in for an alignment and the dealer informed me that there was excessive wear (slop, looseness, whatever you wan to call it) in a lower ball joint to perform the alignment. I had both lowers replaced and re-aligned and the dealers expense (warranty).
Also check for uneven tire wear. They'll do some strange things if the alignment is out and wear the tires unevenly.
Good luck,
JCS
I took it to the dealer and was told that the alternator was going bad & it would be replaced under the warranty.
It was replaced & I picked up the truck.
That night I noticed that the lights in the speedo only,
was doing the same thing.
I checked under the hood to see if the alternator was changed & it was. The only lights that ever flickered was the dash lights, not the headlights, radio etc.
Has any one experienced this problem?
If so please let me know what you did to correct the problem.
Thanks-SURVIVOR93 :confuse:
this happen even when the car is standing still at an idle? :confuse:
Check your main positive cable on the battery. Our mini-van had a small secondary wire off the main terminal that corroded and caused some very strange and erratic behavior with our dash lights. Replaced the cable end and resolved the problem. It did take me a while to figure it out though.
JCS
i will try it tomorrow..survivor93
I had the dealer do an alignment to all wheels. Lower, front ball joints were replaced and a complete wheel balance with what the local dealer called a "Radial force balance". $100 and it made the front shake so severely at ~60 mph I had to go to my local Conrad's and have it re-balanced (smooth now) as I have to go 45 miles to the dealer.
The Radial force balance was a joke... I called and requested my money back. I'll let you know if they pay as they said they would.
Needless to say, I still have the intermittent rumble from the rear end area. ~35 to 40 mph and it shakes the entire Santa Fe. If I hold that speed it will continue to vibrate, maybe for a minute and then go away.
I think it's coming from the drive train. Lots of oil present at differential, but everyone thinks wheels, etc.
The hard part is to get it to do it for the tech. They just drive it. The 1st tech drove at 65 (after I told them it only does it at ~35) and noticed a vibration so he rotated the front wheels... not noticing the front lower ball joints were bad 'duh':(( not all service people are pros.
No one can find the problem yet. All the obvious has been done several times (thanks to Conrad's for the correct wheel balance) I have another appointment on Aug 31 for another try with the shotgun... the only problem is I'm at 96600 miles with the Hyundai 100K warranty. The dealer said if I go over that repaired or not, I pay at 100,001.
Sorry to hear that it's not resolved. Looking on the bright side, you know what it is not. Sometimes trouble shooting comes down to the process of elimination.
Since the wheels are balanced properly:
Have the front and rear wheels been rotated front to back? That would eliminate the cause being a wheel.
Considering your comment about oil leakage, mileage and warranty expiration, I would take it to the dealer and have them open up and inspect the rear differential.
You might also investigate the lemon laws for your state. You might have a course of action there if you have had it in to dealer for repairs and meet the criteria.
Cover Your Assets as they say.
Good luck,
JCS
Good luck
recently when I just pick up after full stop, just at very low speed( almost zero), a "dung" sound is always there.
and after that, everything ok, anyone have same experience? is that the normal or problem with driving train or brake or 4x4 system ? thanks.
D
Wondering how your sistuation worked out. Minie is similar. 2002 Sanata Fe, when I hit the remote it makes a "noise" but does not actually unlock, I have to use the key to open the hatch.
Anyone has a smiliar problem, or done a self repair? I'm well out of bumper to bumper due to milage. 110K+
d.
Joe in Texarkana
Your purge control valve is probably stuck open. Under normal operation, the ECM (Engine Control Module) opens and closes this valve when you're driving to burn off excess fuel vapors. If it's stuck open, the a large amount of vapors will be pushed out of the tank and into the engine when you fuel, causing the engine to be flooded.
My solution which has been working great for a week is to replace the fuel pressure sensor. The box is labelled:
35301 37100
Regulator- Delivery pipe press(ure)
$35 to $55
This is a do it yourself project that will take about 15 minutes.
-Remove the plastic engine cover (6 10mm bolts)
-Disconnect the 1,3,5 spark plug leads from the distributor cap (they are going to the back engine spark plugs) and from the two guides.
-When looking at the engine to the right between the two (front and rear) intake manifold ports is a 1/2" black fuel line that leads to the pressure sensor. Another way to locate the sensor is to look for a black 1/4" vacuum pressure line coming from the rear intake manifold port. A third location tip is just before the second spark plug wire guide (moving away from the distributor).
-It is recommended to remove the fuel pump pressure relay and run the engine until it quits to remove the fuel pressure. I was unable to locate this so I put a rag under the pressure sensor and SLOWLY loosened the bolts.
-When removing the 2 10mm bolts that hold the pressure sensor in be VERY careful not to drop the lower bolt. To help locate the sensor, the bolts are going into the right side of the intake manifold. The bolts are not pointed toward you.
-Again, I slowly loosened the bolts and wiggled the sensor to let the pressure release prior to fully removing the bolts. The fuel will be coming from the manifold, not the fuel line.
-Re-attach the fuel line and vacuum pressure lines to the new sensor. Replacement of the fuel line and vacuum line was not required on my vehicle.
I would highly recommend if you have an air compressor that you blow A LOT of air in the area where the gasoline may have fallen to vent the fumes and remove the gasoline prior to engine start.
The first engine start will be a little hard since the fuel pressure must be re-established.
I am not a mechanic, just a guy happy to save $75 in labor costs.
Anyone know how? Or where to find the instructions?
Thanks,
JCS
1) Front axle leak
2) Rear hatch handle inoperable
3) Rear wiper arm getting stuck/not pressing against glass
All repairs performed under warranty with no problems.
The drain valve on the left side of the radiator when opened will only drain one half of the system coolant which totals two gallons.
The 2003 Santa Fe factory service manual does not show where the engine drain plug is located on the 4 cylinder engine. I do all of my own preventive maintainance and religiously keep a accurate log of all work done.
Would someone please advise where the engine coolant drain plug is located. I found a plug on the rear of the engine block which in a logical location for a drain plug but it is difficult to reach. Help with this item would be greatly appreciated. Sparcap54
running very well, never had any major issues or service. Recently had
major service (details below.)
Would really be grateful for suggestions. The powertrain warranty is
good for 120K miles (due to the horespower class action), so I still
have time left for warranty work.
Primary Issue/Symptom:
Recently it has been stalling when idling to a stop shortly after after
being shut down for several hours. It doesn't do it every time, but
when it does, it almost always happens in the first 5 minutes after
starting. I'll come to a red light, be idling in "D", and it will very
suddenly stop. It doesn't do a "sputtering stop", it just dies. I can
restart immediately without any issue, and it will generally behave the
rest of the way. It has not aciviated the MIL light in all this time.
(I tried to pull a stored code with a generic code reader, but
nothing).
Secondary Issues/Symptoms:
Since the "repairs": Some belt (or belts) is squealing (not always, but
often). In addtion the shifting at highways speeds is sometimes (though
not always) rougher than usual, sometimes a "stumble" shift, other
times it races a bit, then jumps into the next gear.
All of the issues are intermittant -- the idle is a once every two or
three days problem, the shifting issues a bit more, although only
blatantly obvious ocassionaly, most often more subtle.
History: (aplogies for length, but want to be thorough.)
As mentioned, until very recently the vehicle was performing quite
well. It had regular service, though not always at the dealer.
Unfortunately about two months ago I learned too late (my wife was
driving at the time) that it was losing coolant, and it overheated.
Long story short, the heads were sent out to be resurfaced, and at the
same time, I had them go ahead and replace the timing belt and water
pump, in addtion to the other major service items (tranny flush,
replace filters, spark plugs, belts, etc.).
Getting the work done was a long, painful 10 day ordeal at the SF
delearship. The day I was due to finally pick it up, they could not get
it to spark, and they spent several hours trying to get it to start. In
the end, I had to return the next day, when they reported back to me
that there had been a sensor problem (unfortunately, I don't
specifically remember if they mentioned the crankshaft sensor.)
When I finally got the SF back, I immediatley noticed the squealing
belts. When I mentioned this, I was given "looks", and asked to wait a
few minutes. Not knowing I was watching, I observed the mechanic spray
the belts with lube. I remeber thinking at the time that this seemed
like fixing a symptom, not a cause, but after not having the car for 10
days, after having to fight them to pay for part of my rental due to
the length of repairs (they admitted to screwing up on ordering parts,
and then delayed sending out the heads due to other issues, I just
wanted to be done with them.)
My wife initially drove the SF afterwards, and complained to me of
hesitation issues. I did notice that ocassionaly (but not regularly),
when giving it "quick acceleration" from a full stop, it would indeed
stumble and recover. However, it was very intermitant, and the dealer
could not recreate the problem to capture on the flight recorder, nor
could I recreate it for them on demand. That problem seemed to lessen
after a while, but the "death on idle" situation seems to have taken
it's place.
I have not yet taken the car back into the dealer officially, but I did
speak with the service writer. He has already hinted that "I shouldn't
expect much on a car with this milage" and poor service history. When I
asked what that was supposed to mean, he said that they assumed I never
changed the tranny fluid, becuase when the did they tranny flush, "even
when we flushed -- it still came out dark and never went pink."
Questions:
SO, based on what I have described, any thoughts on what could be the
problem? I've heard/read/gotten the general ideal the crankshaft sensor
can be a delicate thing, and since it sounds like it came up at the
time the heads were rebuilt, might be a likely candidate? I'm thinking
it probabbly is not a fuel issue, based on the "quick" nature of the
stall, and the other shift issues that come up.
My big concern is that this doesn't become a fishing trip for them--
simply swapping out parts, especially non-powertrain (non-warranted)
parts. I'm not very confident in them based on my history with them,
but feel like I should go back to them first, before moving on to
another dealer. Thoughts again?
Many thanks in advance to all who reply,
d.
What threw me off was the dash lights were all on, so iniitially I did not think it was the battery. Apparently, when the terminals were corroded, the battery could not get charged but there was enough juice to light up the dash but not enough to crank the engine.
I don't know if this would help, but thought to mention to you since it is quite easy to check out the battery terminals, continuity and voltage.
tidester, host
I thought I would mention something that may help some of you that may have similar problems, should your car not want to start. The dash lights may light because they only draw a very small anount of electricity. A bad connection or partially corroded battery terminals may allow a small current to flow to light the dash lights, but if you hit the starter, the large current tries to flow through the corrosion, it's resistance instantly builds up heat, and the connection opens, and no current flows to the starter. SO, when you have a no start condition, try adding more electrical 'LOAD' to the battery to see if you can get enough 'juice' out of your battery. Turn on your dome lights and headlights and watch them to see if they dim when you try to start the car. This puts more load on the connections, and will not mislead you with a false reading, the battery will either keep the lights bright enough or they will get very dim. If headlights stay almost as bright as normal, then it would be safe to say the battery has power, and there is something else causing it not to start, like a bad starter or starter/control connection. But, if headlights get very dim or go out, then battery power is low OR battery connections are bad.
Finally on my third trip to the deal to express my irate opinion on the issue it would not start for them while on the diagnostic computer. AHA! Turned out to be a bad crank sensor. Hope this helps...