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Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon
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Comments
I took another look at the dealerships in my state (NJ) and found a red, MT S/W but with a lot of options that I didn't really need. They advertised only an MSRP $25K (compared to the $22.3K) on the one I had ordered, so I didn't think they would match the offer.
I called them yesterday anyway and the salesman checked with his manager who OK'd the price, if I got in before they sold it to someone else.
I went in today and after looking at it (pretty color) and driving it, paid for it with a credit card and drove off. The financial person was non-hassling (offered a 9K mi extension of warranty with guaranteed immediate free loaner for $99 and etching for $189 but didn't pressure us).
Drove off and it is sitting in my yard far away from where anyone visiting us should drive their vehicle. It was a 60 mile drive -- the car felt "solid". Have to rebuild my shifting skills but looking forward to exploring this car.
Dealer is Pine Belt Subaru in Lakewood, NJ. The price was (by my calculations) $800 below invoice ($2900 below MSRP) including all options.
Steve
-Colin
-mike
Looking forward to becoming familiar with this little red car.
Steve
My title arrived Saturday, so I got my plates and some plate covers. went to put them on today and ran into a little problem. No place to mount the front plates! When I took off the rear temporary tag, I saw that there were two Nylon inserts for the self threading screws at the top, but no holes for the bottom. Is this how those of you with front plates have yours mounted? If so, my dealer forgot to give me the inserts.
I ended up taking some spare screws and sandwiching the frame, cover, and rear plate together with the bottom screw holes, and then used the supplied screws to mount the whole shebang with the top holes. This shouldn't rattle, and looks OK. I'll do the same when I get the front fasteners or whatever is used.
Still waiting on a call-back or questionaire about the dealer's performance. Audi and Ford both called within the first week or two. it has been almost a month with Subaru. How long 'till they call from you guys experience.
Still waiting on the cargo liner I ordered Feb 13th, too.
I did get the SCCA info, stickers, card, etc today and Saturday. Looking for someone in the area who does Solo II to go along with to Akron. First week in April. Then I'll see how bad these tires really are. Local chapter says D production. I thought the WRX was in one of the new street classes?
Steve
you can compete in D Stock (DS) or a new provisional class called Street Touring X (STX). you should buy a rulebook to learn all the specifics, but the major differences between the two are allowed modifications-- stock very little, STX quite a bit-- and that stock can use any DOT legal tire and STX uses 'real' street tires with treadwear at least 140.
honestly if you're on street tires you'll probably be closer to the pack in STX, assuming some seriously prepped DS cars are present. warning though, RE92s are terrible for autocross.
-Colin
Mine's bone stock with the exception of a removed resonator. (Oh, and the removed Impreza logo, and installed shift knob and trim.)
STX - That was the new one I was trying to remember. I saw something about it in the latest Grassroots Motorsports magazine, I think.
As for the tires...well, the sooner I wear them out, the sooner I can get new ones! I think I've just about exceeded my excuse of "well both of my cars and all the accessories still don't cost as much as yours..." I think by now they do.
One 2002 WRX + one 1958 MGA + goodies for both = one 2001 Audi A6.
And I think the Steve/Stephen population now exceeds the Dave quotient on this list.
Steve
http://homepage.mac.com/subaruwrx/
http://my.en.com/~smorris/mga/
You will brutalize the outer shoulders of them no matter what you do. It is not uncommon to see them scuffed all the way to the "B" in Bridgestone. Just try not to get frustrated by their squirminess or lack of traction-- actually, it can be a bit fun to slide around that much as long as you don't expect to win. ;-)
-Colin
Cat Back
Tires
Shocks/Struts
air-filter
brake pads
Can you modify your resonator or anything like that on the intake? I know a lot of people removed snorkus from their cars does that knock you out of Stock? Just curious.
-mike
Stephen
I test drove a 5 Sp wagon last weekend and I was very impressed. I currently lease a Mercedes C320 (BORING) and I own a 2002 Jeep Liberty Limited. The Jeep was great this winter but was not fun when driving at 80 MPH on interstate 84 in PA/NY. It still IS a nice truck. My inlaws are buying it from me so now I can have a "FUN" car.
I've read nearly ever post this past week and even saw the pros and cons of m/t vs auto. I prefer a 5 sp BUT I live on Long Island and hit TONS of traffic at times. I go to NE PA nearly every weekend so I will have to settle for the auto. I test drove the auto on Long Island this week and it wasn't that bad. Definitely some lag on takeoff but once the turbo is spooled this car creates a grin you can't remove! I just can't imagine what this car will be like on the highway! Add to that, the utility of a wagon, decent ride, decent equipment, AWD and you have a true winner!
Questions.... anyone get the guage package?
Does getting the guages delete the clock?
Thanks in advance for your replies.....
Jason
Can I assume the rims and tires that come up on tirerack.com are acceptable? What are the primary concerns?
Also, I'm thinking of utilizing the stock 16 in. rims as my Winter rims and run the stock tires until replacement Winter/Snow tires are needed. Sound logical?
I'm new to posting here, so I apologize if this info is already out there.
BTW, I utilized my 16" stockers as my winter rims and have Dunlop Wintersports mounted on them. They are still on (until the forementioned 17"s get here) and are great all-around winter tires for cars w/a performance pedigree. They are about $102 ea on Tirerack. The S03s are great tires but are currently backordered nationwide. Should be available about 3/22. I went w/Toyo T1s. They are actually a bit better regarding the wear factor than the S03s. They also are quieter and meet the high standards of hydroplaning resistence that the S03s have established. Oh yeah, about $10 less per tire too.
Stephen
The 17x7 BBS RK are 17 lbs and so is the OZ Chrono Evolution sold at Tirerack. Prodrive P1's are very strong but also fairly heavy at 19.5 lbs. The Bridgestone S-03 tires are very good but also very heavy compared to other tires (something like 25 lbs in 215/45 size) compared to around 20lbs for Toyo T1-S which are one of the lighter tires. I'm going with the T1-S.
You can go to wheelweights.net and check out the weights of wheels there.
If you go with a 17x7.5 wheel, you'd want 225/45R17 size tires. 215/45R17 tires are more suited for a 17x7 inch wheel.
SSR and Volks are good quality wheels but you pay more for them. The SSR Competition are a bit fragile but extremely light at 13-14 lbs. The stock 16x6.5 Subaru wheels are 16.5 lbs. I took the middle road, and went with 17x7 OZ Superleggeras which are 15.1 lbs and strong also (see my unmounted wheel here ) and 215/45 Toyo T1-S.
The consequence of running wheels/tires that are too heavy is it can affect the way the wheels stay planted on the ground and affect the handling. The wheel will tend to "bounce" around more easily as the suspension fights to keep the wheel on the ground during bumps. I'd stay away from the Mille Miglia wheels for that reason, they are quite a bit heavier than your stock setup.
I usually buy the most grippy in the dry, most responsive summer tires I can get for less than $100 each and ignore wet performance, ride comfort, and mileage. I tend to get about 15,000 miles out of a set of summers as a result. But now I'm removing the coilovers from my car in favor of softer SPT springs and KYB AGX struts, and I figure since I'll be getting some comfort back (lots, actually) I'll get some tires that do it all well.
I didn't think the S-03 would last the miles, based on comments I've read and (this might be an unfair judgement) mileage others have gotten out of the S-02. I also ruled out the Yokohama AVS Sport because of mileage, and possibly ride comfort.
The short list was:
Bridgestone RE730
Toyo T1-S
Firestone SZ50 EP
Why did I pick the Firestone? Well for one, Firestone has been just a marketing arm of Bridgestone, and I think the SZ50 is the one true performance tire Bridgestone 'lets' them have but it's a good one. I had the original SZ50 on my Camaro-- ok, I admit they were on wheels I traded for-- and I really liked them. I also drove them on a friend's Stealth turbo, great stuff.
I haven't driven the RE730, but I have seen a lot of comments from drivers who have had higher performance tires and from autocrossers that like the heck out of this tire BUT they think the sidewalls are a bit squirmy for serious use. Yes I know they are highly touted by the Tirerack and by their user surveys-- but I suspect the lower price invites people that have never driven top level tires to try them. When something is the best you've ever had, you have no point of reference above it.
So anyway, it came down to a crap shoot between the T1-S and the SZ50 EP. I went they way I did because A) the tirerack doesn't carry Toyo and I leaned toward the new version of something I already new about.
I'm liking them so far, but only have about 200 miles on them. Will autocross them this Sunday, hope they don't chunk. If they do maybe I'll use Firestone's 30 day test drive guarantee?
-Colin
Kind of going OT, but was the whole Firestone tire incident ever an issue in your decision criteria? Are the SZ50 EPs made in the US or are they rebadged Bridgestones?
Ken
Stephen
-mike
No I didn't consider the Firestone recall at all. The SZ50 EP is in fact made in Japan and I believe it is the only Firestone tire that comes from the plant other than race tires. (IRL still uses Firestone, right? don't follow it myself.) WarpDrive is correct, some of the Firestone names for the technologies employed in the SZ50 EP are different than the Bridgestone names, but it's really the same stuff. dual-layer tread, enhanced silica, jointless band, long-link carbons, blah blah blah.
Including shipping, mount & balance on a Hunter GSP9700, new high quality valve stems, and disposal of my old summer tires it was over $700. Seems like money well spent so far!
-Colin
Ken
-Frank P.
In this case I had a hunch that the SZ50 EP was. I asked someone on the iClub if they would mind looking at their sidewall-- sure enough, in relatively small print it's right there MADE IN JAPAN.
It's on mine too of course. I hate to steer this OT so I'm not going to comment on the whole Firestone debacle any further than saying that I agree with Frank.
-Colin
Ken
Thanks
Steve3
I assume that they just ran the VIN and it came out as high performance or sport vehicle and this led to higher rate.
Is this correct and have others routinely had such a boost purely because of performance level of car. I have NO auto risk factors.
Steve
-mike
TWRX
-mike
Bruce
-mike
Try a search on the i-club. I found this one by searching the FAQ forum:
http://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=118298&referrerid=767
You could also search the Factory Forced Induction forum and others.
-Dennis
I jack the car under the crossmember jacking plate and put jackstands under both sides.
There's something similar in the rear, except it's a longitudinal link. I jack under the rear differential there.
-Colin
Classification: Ultra-high-performance All-season
Temperature/Traction: AAA
Treadwear rating: 360
Speed rating: W (168mph) (W = Z+)
Weight: 21 lbs (215/45WR17)
Where made: Japan
Cost: $94 (215/45WR17 size)
Check this out:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/sumitomo/su_htrplus.jsp
Later...AH
Although I have driven the HTR Z and HTR ZII, both pretty decent for a low-cost tire.
-Colin
- Paul
I'ts kind of like getting kicked in the nuts.
It only happens in the groin but it hurts all over. Haaaaa. Haaaaa.
Btw, hope you'll take a moment to stop by our Subaru Crew - Meet the Members discussion and say hello. Happy motoring! ;-)
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Station Wagons Boards
If this is abnormal, what is likely wrong that I can fix (I don't want to take the audio unit out unless it is a smaller job than it appears in the installation instructions)?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Station Wagons Boards
the turbo boost gauge is reading manifold pressure. I'll try to answer your question properly and keep this somewhat concise.
all engines produce varying degrees of intake manifold pressure-- at idle, the vacuum (negative pressure) is very high while at wide-open throttle (WOT) it is considerably lower and should peak at roughly atmospheric pressure. that means the air inside the intake manifold is the same pressure as the air outside.
once a gear is engaged and the vehicle is moving, the manifold pressure does not instantly change with respect to throttle position. it changes with respect to throttle position and other factors, but mostly load on the engine. load is higher when accelerating hard or climbing hills, low when cruising.
things change a little bit when a turbocharger is thrown into the mix. we could go into great detail about it, but let's keep it simple: the turbocharger is an air (exhaust gasses) driven air pump that can produce positive pressure in the intake tract under load.
when cruising under light load and low throttle input, the turbocharged engine is making manifold vacuum just like a naturally aspirated (non-turbo or supercharged) one. your boost gauge will read negative.
when you open the throttle, the turbocharger begins making boost (positive pressure) and you will see the boost gauge quickly sweep from negative to zero and then fairly quickly read positive. if you relax your foot, the boost quickly tails off.
more information about engines in general and turbocharged engines can be found at www.howstuffworks.com -- but this is all just from me. ;-)
-Colin